When doing a new tubeless setup with new tape, I like to install the tire with a tube and inflate to press the tape onto the rim. The 40-50 psi in the tube presses the tape onto the rim much more consistently than you could ever do with your fingers. Also, with new tires, I find that installing the tire with a tube helps to stretch and round out the tire. At a minimum with new tires, I find that it saves a lot of frustration if they are unfolded, rounded out, and allowed to sit for a day or so before trying to mount them.
Use Orange Sealent - it sets like a balloon inside your tyres and later, when you come to remove them, you just peal the sealent away rather than spend ages trying to rub and scrape sealent like Stans or Continental off the insideof your tyres.
I just did this.... It was infuriating when I realised i put it on backwards when i mounted the wheel.... Had to clean up all the sealant I had just put in. Brutal.
I literally just put a new tyre on the rim, and nearly cried when I had finished and realised I didn't think of aligning the tyre and wheel writing :'( haha
I’ve learned from bitter experience that sometimes even using a compressor & high volume of air doesn’t get the blasted tyre to seat, especially when the tyre is brand new. If this happens you can insert a tube, inflate to a good pressure & let it sit for a few hours. Then take out the tube, put in your valve & try seat the tubeless tyre again. Works every time
Another trick that works for me is using a tube before to easily bed the tyre in. Once done, unbed only one side of the tyre and gently remove the tube from the rim making sure the other side of the tyre/rim remains sealed. Then add the sealant and it usually makes that "victorious" pop sound at first try and you are ready to go.
@@orionfpv613 If you ride up and down the local trails walking your bike with a flat tire back to the car is not a problem. If you're riding off road cross country, always carry a repair kit and extra tube. My opinion / advice.
I never align the logo with the stem ...... I've gotten in the habit of aligning the pressure ratings with the valve stem and it makes it far easier to find the pressure range on the casing. its just a habit now despite the fact that with my current MTB setup, my tires are tubeless and FAR below what the tires are rated for. Road bike seems a bit more applicable but I still do it to all the tires I mount
@@captainLoknar For me, it makes it easier/faster to find the stem when adding air. (I check this before every ride.) FWIW, I wouldn't redo it if I forgot to do this.
Depends on the sealant. I know Continental sealant says do not use CO2 but Stans says you can use CO2. I'd just double check with the sealant you use as to whether CO2 is OK to use or not.
I sometimes use the c02 just to seat the tire then let it out put the sealant in and inflate again with track pump... once tire gets properly seated using a track pump works fine typically
I'm totally new to tubeless, never used it, however am preparing to. I'd like to know if you always need to use a track pump to reinflate your tubeless tires, or can you use a hand pump for maintenance inflation? For example if I'm on a ride and it goes a bit flat, can I pump it back up with my hand pump, or can I never use a hand pump to reinflate a tubeless? What if I'm on a multi-day tour, do I need to carry a bloody track pump with me?
You forgot to warn people. Some sealants I have heard say don't use co2. Cause sealant to chunk up. Other than that. Great informative video. Well done.
Doddy I love the concern for the environment in each and every video of your's. And they are really informative....guess you must be getting to hear plenty of this... cheers :)
The mechanic vids have been really great, well informed and some times you get to think of things you had not been paying attention too. Good work hiring Doddy. 🤙🏼
@@Monster-hx8qx As in there's no gap in the seam of the rim. But they still should be taped. Mine started leaking around the spoke nipples after some more aggressive riding. So I taped them. No issues now. 2 year old comment by the way.
going tubeless is great i wont go back to a tubeed tire.i initaly has issues inflating the tire if you have this problem make shure you try to wrap a string around the tire in the middle of the tred to push it tward the rim to get it to keep air it really helped me keep pressure to inflate the tire
Burger Bum and a hydration pac. To carry all that, bike rack, bug spray, sun block, gloves, sunglasses or goggles, money, quarters, some food, some first aid, flash light, pocket knife, toilet paper, maxi pads are a must for most bikers.
I'm definitely trying this on my Coyote Skid Row fat bike, even though I have neither tyres nor rims tubeless ready. The tires are kind of worn, but that's partly why I don't mind trying. Also, I do have an old compressor and eight years experience as a car and commercial tyre fitter. So this will be a fun experiment.
Instead of spending an additional $10 for the "sealant syringe" I used a $0.99 mustard squeeze bottle and a 10" piece of clear, scrap 1/4" ID tubing that can fit snugly over the valve stem. Place the tubing over the bottle spout and it makes for a nice clean installation of the sealant. I also marked the bottle at 2 oz and 4 oz to make the job even easier. FYI - you may NOT want to use a CO2 tire inflator as the expanding CO2 gas is so cold it can freeze the liquid sealant and make it into a goopy mess.
Using CO2 causes a chemical reaction with the sealant. Making the sealant inside useless. Or can you confirm! Using a CO2 bottle at the top, (12 o’clock position) whilst the sealant is in the bottom OK!!!
Did my tubeless set up with only a cheap floor pump. It popped perfectly in just a few pumps. I have DT swiss M1900 and Maxxis minions. I don't know why people make it sounds so critical to have a fancy pump or an air compressor. Don't be intimidated by it if you only have a floor pump.
Exactly!!! And even easier installation I like to use a few drops of sealant itself to lubricate the bead. You could probably use a silicone spray, but watch your brake rotors.
I think a big one nobody talks about is when tubelizing a normal tire (non ust or tubeless ready) up front, It will be squishy or squirmy at the same psi than with tube. Thats because the thin carcass was not designed to be run tubeless. So some weight weenies like me like to use normal tires made tubeless, keep in mind youll have to use 5 psi more than what u used with tubes.
Two things I had to learn the hard way converting to tubeless: 1. Take the time to really slosh the sealant around well. Better your arms fall off from all that tyre shaking than being constantly frustrated by a small leak somewhere at the rim where the sealant usually doesn't get to... 2. Make sure the valve is screwed on TIGHT. Most locking nuts you can only tighten with your fingers, so do it until you can't move that ring any more. No matter how hard you think it's on already, if you're able to screw it in more, air IS escaping there...
Good vid. Few things to add are: 1.pay attention and install the tyre in the correct direction. 2.If you're using CO2 cartridges, remember that next day you'll have a flat tyre due to CO2 having a higher permeability through rubber than air.
No, you cannot use a cut-out valve from a normal inner tube in a tubeless setup. Tubeless valves have firm piece of rubber that tightens down to the inside of the rimbed using a nut on the valve's outside (ravensgully.files.wordpress.com/2015/09/image4.jpg) . This will provide an airtight connection between the valve and the rim. You wont be able to get an airtight connection without heavily modifying a normal valve.
I found first washing the inside of the tire with soapy water, then wipe with alcohol gets rid of any silicon from the manufacturing process. Helps the sealants stick to tire.
Hey guys, please help me out. I already mounted 4 wheel sets tubeless tyres and they all worked perfectly. Recently I wanted to do convert my friends wheelset to tubeless. Front was fine. When I inflated the rear, at 3.5Bar/50psi the tyre exploded off with a huge bang. Sealant everywhere, my hand injured, the rim bent. Wheelset Etherteen TRS+, tyres Onza. Both tubeless ready. The tyre was not destroyed, it just popped over the rim. How could that happen? Was there a defect on the tyre? An error in production process?
Sounds like the pressure gauge on your pump may be incaccurate. I found that the gauge on my pump was under-reading significantly when I compared it with a stand alone tyre gauge.
progeocaching I used a compressor which has two pressure gauges on its own, and for safety reasons released pressure from the tank itself until it was as low as 60psi. So three gauges were showing the same pressure...
Spent about 500 miles on it and so far so good. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA Pros:1. Very light2. Solid quality build3. Fast delivery: It arrived 5 weeks earlier than expected.4. Easy assemblyJust a few cons but nothing major:1. Cheap tin tubes and had flat on first day... but not a big deal. I replaced the tubes.2. Seat is a bit uncomfortable but that's pretty much the same situation with most bikes.3. Seat post is a bit long/high for a smaller size 48 bike - had to saw 2 inch off to fit properly. The lowest setting is too high. The post locking system does not seem to hold well (perhaps because I saw 2 inch off).4. wheels are not tubeless compatible (from what I can tell)
First off i am a huge gmbn fan. Always have been. You guys put on a quality informative show(Everytime) but when describing shortcuts Doddy tends to use the word "ghetto" As a person who grew up in an actual Ghetto this hits my ears with offense. Not mad just want to clarify that the "ghetto" is where home is to some people. Using that word when describing a shortcut implies the ghetto is half-ass or less-than. To me the ghetto was unity, togetherness and community due to the fact we had to rely on each other to survive. I'm sure people may disagree or think im being too sensitive but "the ghetto) made some of us who we are and im not less than. Didn't mean to rant just think you could use another word...much love from the West Cypress Ghetto, Santa Maria, California
Just attempted tubeless conversation. Total and complete FAIL.Installed tubes. Used Fix-A-Flat (combination sealant and compressed air in a can). Will take to my local bike shop for a proper tubeless installation when I get around to it. F this S!
Dry run ain't gonna work for legacy rims and thin bead tube style tires. I successfully seated two sets of twenty year old 26 inch Mavic rims using Gorilla tape, Slime and a wet setup. Was it easy? Hell, no. The tires fit the rim so loosely that you could stick your finger between bead and rim. Did it work? Hell, yes. They work as well as my modern 27.5 tubeless style rims set up dry, once you get them aired up and ride them for an hour or two.
I made my own inflator with a 2L coca cola bottle covered in gorilla tape and drilled 2 holes in the bottle cap to fit two valves - one of which with a piece of tubing attached. I just clamp the tubing, pump up the bottle to 50psi, and release the clamp. Presto - all done and cost pennies! There's an excellent 'How To' video on BikeRadar's channel on here. Look it up! You can buy the tubing etc on eBay.
Inflators are crazy expensive, more than a cheep compressor. There's lots of diy hacks on the Internet using garden sprayers. My inflator is a co2 fire extinguisher and a welding regulator, I service a guys bike at a fire extinguisher company in return for free exchange of partly discharged bottles, you just have to store them upside down because of the inner dip tube.
Fuck it I'm sticking to Dr sludge innertubes and smart sam plus tyrez, just as good all for the sake of getting a little less resistance in ride quality and saving about half a Kilogram inertia. I mean sure, if you race competitively then I can see how it's worth it.
I recently converted to a tubeless WTB ranger 29” , tested the bike on paved path for the first time and rear tire blew up. Cleaned up the sealant mess when I got home and put air back but I didn’t put tubeless sealant since I don’t have any at home. Tried to test ride it but seems to be losing air pressure still. Should I put tubeless sealant to the rear tire again? Or any suggestions.. just want to start riding with no more hassles 😫
I had one quick question because I've got tubeless tires on my bike but I don't carry CO2 with me while out on the trail I've just got a little hand pump that I use but I have my home pump would I be able to use that pump or would it strictly just be a CO2 cartridge that I'll need for when I do see my new tires on my rims
If you have a garden pressure/weed sprayer you can successfully adapt it to dump a load of air into the tyre instantly, it worked for me, plenty of you tube videos on how to do this. If it doesn't work you can just put it back to how it was, it's cost you nothing but time
🤔hey doddy, please could you tell me what psi to run on a tubless set up, for the road commute to work, im 90kgs, at the moment I'm running them at 30psi🤔👍
Step 1. Dont go tubeless. There is a reason why tubes were around for such a long time. They're easy to patch, easy to replace. Tubeless tires are a nightmare to mount because they dont fit the rim properly. They almost require a pair of tin snips to remove them if I do get a flat
or instead of shaking the wheel to slosh it why not just fill the wheel up with a solid block of sealant. set the valve to the top of the wheel and keep squirting in sealant until no more can go in then you only have a small air pocket in the tire. then inflate the tire you could also use the trick used for seating car tires spray a very small amount of flammable liquid in and light it and whoosh tire seats. of course it is not without its dangers.
i would add that CO2 should not be used in combination with sealant. it's fine to seat the tire at first but once you have sealant inside - it's not recommended (all of sealants i've used have that warning on the bottle).
Until they make true tubeless rims and true tubeless tyres, without any stupid tape, sealant and special valves, that is inconvenient Try to read my post some years later and you will know why
Mega tip for going tubeless on a tubeless ready bike, pump your tire with a tube and only un bead one side of the tire this Will help a Lot when seating i got it first try twice with a floor pump withour removing the valve core
So when Doddy showed added the tape to the inside of the rim ... seems like he failed to add a hole where the valve goes and showed himself taping over it. I assume you'd want the air to be between the tape and tire and not between the tape and rim (or go nowhere beacuse there is no space with the inside of the valve sealed).
Ditto. So satisfying to hear those sharp “pings.” Then sealant thru the valve, and good to go. Of course, it helps to have tires and rims from the same manufacturer, specifically designed for this...
After I fit the tire without the sealant and do the dry run I can hear air leaking out at higher pressure. Does that mean I didn't do it right or is it gonna be fine after I put in the sealant?
Good video guys , now i Appreciate you have to pay the rent but adding a 30 second advert to all you videos now is too much for me i am afraid , 15 seconds is the max my attention span can handle and its not even for mountain bike product !!!!
I am using tubeless for 3 months now. I am happy with it. But one problem: The tyres lose air over night. I have to pump it up every ride. Does anybody know why ? Maybe a solution?
If the pressure is dropping really slowly then it's probably the rim tape. Take the tyre off and check for damage to the tape. Even the smallest of holes can be a problem. Either remove the tape and put fresh on, wrap a second layer of tape over the first or patch any holes, I've used electrical tape to patch holes and it seems to hold up. It can be worth getting a (large) bucket of water and with the tyre inflated dunking it in the water and checking that the air isn't leaking from somewhere else, like a badly seated tyre.
Depends on the sealant. I know Continental sealant says do not use CO2 but Stans says you can use CO2. I'd just double check with the sealant you use as to whether CO2 is OK to use or not.
Dude, with a mini pump! Just bought my new wheels (Stans Arch) and I was swapping my tires from old rims ID 19mm non tubeless and installation on both rims was super easy. I think what's most important is to match the tire with the rim. WTB is known to have a snag fit and it's harder to put on a rim than say Kenda, but once installed they pop in place like it's magic.
One and only mistake is going tubeless. Just some of the things you won't need if you have a tube: $20 sealant bottle, $10 valve core tool, gorilla strength to mount tires, $200 air compressor!
I am runing e13 trs+ with procore and magic mary. i pump it up to 28 and 20 psi and after every ride i am loosing about 3psi or more..... am i supposed to ride with even more pressure to prevent burping or ist it the tire-rim combination that sucks? i am 185pound ride ready and riding pretty rocky terrain.... any suggestions?
I am obviously making some massive basic mistake! I follow the steps, but cannot seem to be able to pump air into the wheel whatsoever (dry, no sealant liquid). It all leaks somehow out instantly, without creating any pressure inside the tire. I am using Ritchey tubeless ready rims, and Panaracer tubeless ready tires. Valve is placed the only way it can be placed as it has a circular rubber seal (and it's tightened too to the rim). I appreciate any tips!
You guys might be interested in the new Fillmore Tubeless valve. It solves a lot of the silly issues that are created with the standard Presta valve. Low flow, clogging, not being able to seat a tire etc.......ua-cam.com/video/l1wqclp4u1U/v-deo.html
My cube attention has Schrader valves, do I need to get Schrader tubeless set (sure I've seen these), or do I need to get a presta setup (and will this be fine in a slightly larger hole originally designed for schrader)? GMBN, great work as always and fantastic channel. 🚵🚴
Yea first thing that pomp is not cheap, second you need a good tape not every "tubeless" tape works. I try to go tubeless and it is a lot of hassle. The tape I have is shit I put my tier and there is no way it will seal for the dry run. In the end I put 3 layers and still no seal, I give up and return to tubes. Tubeless is for those rich guys.
There's valid discussion around the CO2 issue where its cold temperature can ball up the sealant resulting in premature sealant failure. If using a CO2 cartridge, it's best to fill with the tire valve in the 12 o'clock position (so most of the sealant is at the 6 o'clock position, furthest away) and to let the gas in slowly. Of course, with a new tire this fact is irrelevant since you can use CO2 to mount the tire, prior to injecting sealant.
Doddy - I'm planning go go tubeless on my 2004 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo. Bought this bike used about a year ago and have been riding/working on it since. This is my next upgrade. So, I was at the LBS looking at what options they had for tape, valves, and sealant. During my conversation with the tech he pointed out that the sealant manufacturers state the sealant has a useful life. What he couldn't tell me is do I just sweeten the sealant with another dose or would it be better to remove the tire and wipe down the inside of the tire and rim before recharging. Hope you can provide some good advice. Thanks, Tom
Don't use CO2 to inflate tubeless tyres!!!!!!!. Use normal air. When I use CO2 my sealant dries in 3 weeks. If I use normal air, it will only dry after 4 months.
First time setup, 29er stans no tubes and Minion DHF new tires. I have gotten the tires onto the rims and inflated to around 40psi, but I have not yet heard the "pop", I am using a floor pump and tires are holding at 40psi overnight - should I go higher pressure until the beads pop?
How about dealing with recalcitrant tyres that say they are Tubeless Ready but aren't really. PS 6 years here flat free thanks to tubeless and the impressive boogers. Tubes can go DIAF.
The most. Importante for me. Is installing a tube inside de Wheel and inflate it so that the tire pops. Into place or against the bead, then remove the tube from one side and put the tire back together into the rim. And then inflate with compressor and it will pop into place, your welcome
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
What are your favourite tubeless hacks! let us know in the comments!
spray paint the inside of non-tubeless tires to seal the casing
When doing a new tubeless setup with new tape, I like to install the tire with a tube and inflate to press the tape onto the rim. The 40-50 psi in the tube presses the tape onto the rim much more consistently than you could ever do with your fingers. Also, with new tires, I find that installing the tire with a tube helps to stretch and round out the tire. At a minimum with new tires, I find that it saves a lot of frustration if they are unfolded, rounded out, and allowed to sit for a day or so before trying to mount them.
Global Mountain Bike Network get a Schrader to presta adapter use the local compressor at the petrol station. Simple as that.
Use Orange Sealent - it sets like a balloon inside your tyres and later, when you come to remove them, you just peal the sealent away rather than spend ages trying to rub and scrape sealent like Stans or Continental off the insideof your tyres.
Using home depot pressure sprayer :) just $10, but works like a charm every time.
You forgot the most important thing. Check you install the tire the right way because it's a pain in the ass to flip it.
What do you mean? Are your tires directional?
@@rockymountboy yes, mtb tires are (usually) directional
I just did this....
It was infuriating when I realised i put it on backwards when i mounted the wheel....
Had to clean up all the sealant I had just put in.
Brutal.
@ewanok Nope. But maybe mine aren't the expensive good kind.
I hear you man.
Apart from the dirt shed show on fridays, I look forward to maintenance mondays the best. Doddy is a natural at explaining and teaching stuff.
I totally agree that Doddy is a great tech guy.
He wasn't known as Mr. MTB for nothing. :)
You missed getting the direction roll wrong... did it on my first attempt and had to do it all again :/
And don't forget Tyres are often Directional!!
Oh man is this sooo easy to mess up
Doddy you forgot to align the stickers on tire/rim, it's more pro!
I literally just put a new tyre on the rim, and nearly cried when I had finished and realised I didn't think of aligning the tyre and wheel writing :'( haha
I’ve learned from bitter experience that sometimes even using a compressor & high volume of air doesn’t get the blasted tyre to seat, especially when the tyre is brand new. If this happens you can insert a tube, inflate to a good pressure & let it sit for a few hours. Then take out the tube, put in your valve & try seat the tubeless tyre again. Works every time
Another trick that works for me is using a tube before to easily bed the tyre in. Once done, unbed only one side of the tyre and gently remove the tube from the rim making sure the other side of the tyre/rim remains sealed. Then add the sealant and it usually makes that "victorious" pop sound at first try and you are ready to go.
Guillermo Yañez what about the valve cores? Don’t you need to put those in?
First thing to remember with a tubeless tire is to carry a spare inner tube.
chas sisom this for me just makes it not worth it. Like I’d rather fix a flat every thousand miles than mess with that nasty sealant.
Well, enjoy your road bike...
who does that? just carry a small repair kit.
So basically the same as a tubed setup carry a spare tube lol
@@orionfpv613 If you ride up and down the local trails walking your bike with a flat tire back to the car is not a problem. If you're riding off road cross country, always carry a repair kit and extra tube. My opinion / advice.
Mistakes:
Installing a directional tire backwards
Misaligning the logo and stem -- a more obvious reference never hurts
I never align the logo with the stem ...... I've gotten in the habit of aligning the pressure ratings with the valve stem and it makes it far easier to find the pressure range on the casing. its just a habit now despite the fact that with my current MTB setup, my tires are tubeless and FAR below what the tires are rated for. Road bike seems a bit more applicable but I still do it to all the tires I mount
whats the point of aligning the logo and stem
@@captainLoknar For me, it makes it easier/faster to find the stem when adding air. (I check this before every ride.) FWIW, I wouldn't redo it if I forgot to do this.
If you've got tires with wear indicators eg Conti road tires, alingn the wear indicator holes with the stem.
Sometimes the valve rotates when taking the valve core out. That's so great...
I was under the impression that sealant and (cold)co2 won't go well together? True or false? #askgmbn
Depends on the sealant. I know Continental sealant says do not use CO2 but Stans says you can use CO2. I'd just double check with the sealant you use as to whether CO2 is OK to use or not.
Marco Frissen True CO2 dries my sealant in 3 weeks
stan`s turns to a block of solid rubber when you use CO2. not sure why they dont tell us this?
I sometimes use the c02 just to seat the tire then let it out put the sealant in and inflate again with track pump... once tire gets properly seated using a track pump works fine typically
I'm totally new to tubeless, never used it, however am preparing to. I'd like to know if you always need to use a track pump to reinflate your tubeless tires, or can you use a hand pump for maintenance inflation? For example if I'm on a ride and it goes a bit flat, can I pump it back up with my hand pump, or can I never use a hand pump to reinflate a tubeless? What if I'm on a multi-day tour, do I need to carry a bloody track pump with me?
Originally I thought doddy was a bit of a pleb, but now he seems like a decent bloke. Cheers doddy! 👍
You forgot to warn people. Some sealants I have heard say don't use co2. Cause sealant to chunk up. Other than that. Great informative video. Well done.
Conti Revo sealant is a nice example ;)
Doddy is so good with all the technical stuff! Extremely informative! :)
Lol: The #1 mistake is using CO2. Yes, it sets it up, but it fucks up the sealant in no time.
true, so true. although some say that there are some sealants that can couple with CO2... nevertheless it's not something that will do
Doddy I love the concern for the environment in each and every video of your's. And they are really informative....guess you must be getting to hear plenty of this... cheers :)
For those that dont have a valve core tool, you can use a spoke wrench 😉
Doddy in the thumbnail looks like a grown up Vault Boy.
Fuck this i'll keep my tubes.
The mechanic vids have been really great, well informed and some times you get to think of things you had not been paying attention too. Good work hiring Doddy. 🤙🏼
Wot? Rim tape? I managed to set my DT Swiss E1900s up tubeless without using rim tape. Hahah oh dear! And it works! How lucky am I?
They are tubeless ready, doh
@@Monster-hx8qx As in there's no gap in the seam of the rim. But they still should be taped. Mine started leaking around the spoke nipples after some more aggressive riding. So I taped them. No issues now. 2 year old comment by the way.
going tubeless is great i wont go back to a tubeed tire.i initaly has issues inflating the tire if you have this problem make shure you try to wrap a string around the tire in the middle of the tred to push it tward the rim to get it to keep air it really helped me keep pressure to inflate the tire
Al caholic dude you saved my life. Got the tyre inflated to 40psi finally. Will check it in about an hour.
WOW! that's pretty innovative. Wrap a rope around the middle of the tread? I guess that helps the bead get into a better angle for seating?
Amazing idea!
Genious
U know. I wasn't a big fan of Doddie at 1st but now he's one of my favourite presenters. Top man
so much extra crap you have to buy to own a mtb :(
Burger Bum and a hydration pac. To carry all that, bike rack, bug spray, sun block, gloves, sunglasses or goggles, money, quarters, some food, some first aid, flash light, pocket knife, toilet paper, maxi pads are a must for most bikers.
clothes, car bike rack, chain whip, torque wrench, parking, entrance fees, protection, winter tyres, cleaning brushes, gear cables, blah blah blah
Only if you ride it
Bike helmet shoes shorts pack.
just go to the shop for everything else like compressors
newt I think that's where you buy stuff ...
The one time its a good idea to go in dry😂
I aired up two tires tubeless with a hand pump and got them to work 1st time. guess I got lucky
Good job Doddy - great tips n tricks! Not gone tubeless yet but will have a go after watching this. Thanks GMBN!
They have mountains in England?
Can you go tubeless on a rim brake bike?
I can't count how many failures I have had trying to go tubeless, given up and now put sealant in my tubes, never get a puncture now
I'm definitely trying this on my Coyote Skid Row fat bike, even though I have neither tyres nor rims tubeless ready. The tires are kind of worn, but that's partly why I don't mind trying. Also, I do have an old compressor and eight years experience as a car and commercial tyre fitter. So this will be a fun experiment.
Instead of spending an additional $10 for the "sealant syringe" I used a $0.99 mustard squeeze bottle and a 10" piece of clear, scrap 1/4" ID tubing that can fit snugly over the valve stem. Place the tubing over the bottle spout and it makes for a nice clean installation of the sealant. I also marked the bottle at 2 oz and 4 oz to make the job even easier. FYI - you may NOT want to use a CO2 tire inflator as the expanding CO2 gas is so cold it can freeze the liquid sealant and make it into a goopy mess.
Using CO2 causes a chemical reaction with the sealant. Making the sealant inside useless. Or can you confirm! Using a CO2 bottle at the top, (12 o’clock position) whilst the sealant is in the bottom OK!!!
Did my tubeless set up with only a cheap floor pump. It popped perfectly in just a few pumps. I have DT swiss M1900 and Maxxis minions. I don't know why people make it sounds so critical to have a fancy pump or an air compressor. Don't be intimidated by it if you only have a floor pump.
Exactly!!! And even easier installation I like to use a few drops of sealant itself to lubricate the bead. You could probably use a silicone spray, but watch your brake rotors.
Fucking true. Pumping air is still pumping air, no matter what pump you have
I did it with a mini hand pump! Not even kidding, It took a few goes but I got it seated!!
Biggest mistake I made was setting aside 30 minutes of my day thinking that would be long enough to clean the residue from the old rim tape 😂😂😂
Why do my sidewalls sweat it out?
@@dodecahedron1 Minion DHF....Yea they are, on a Spectral 8
I think a big one nobody talks about is when tubelizing a normal tire (non ust or tubeless ready) up front, It will be squishy or squirmy at the same psi than with tube.
Thats because the thin carcass was not designed to be run tubeless.
So some weight weenies like me like to use normal tires made tubeless, keep in mind youll have to use 5 psi more than what u used with tubes.
Two things I had to learn the hard way converting to tubeless:
1. Take the time to really slosh the sealant around well. Better your arms fall off from all that tyre shaking than being constantly frustrated by a small leak somewhere at the rim where the sealant usually doesn't get to...
2. Make sure the valve is screwed on TIGHT. Most locking nuts you can only tighten with your fingers, so do it until you can't move that ring any more. No matter how hard you think it's on already, if you're able to screw it in more, air IS escaping there...
Take your wheel to the local petrol station. Free or 20p compressor. Job jobbed.
Good vid. Few things to add are: 1.pay attention and install the tyre in the correct direction. 2.If you're using CO2 cartridges, remember that next day you'll have a flat tyre due to CO2 having a higher permeability through rubber than air.
Can i cut a Ventil from a normal inner tube and use it as a tubeless ventil
No, you cannot use a cut-out valve from a normal inner tube in a tubeless setup. Tubeless valves have firm piece of rubber that tightens down to the inside of the rimbed using a nut on the valve's outside (ravensgully.files.wordpress.com/2015/09/image4.jpg) . This will provide an airtight connection between the valve and the rim. You wont be able to get an airtight connection without heavily modifying a normal valve.
Doddy is a great addition to the channel. Knowledgeable and a a natural presenter. Chapeau Chaps!
I found first washing the inside of the tire with soapy water, then wipe with alcohol gets rid of any silicon from the manufacturing process. Helps the sealants stick to tire.
Hey guys, please help me out.
I already mounted 4 wheel sets tubeless tyres and they all worked perfectly. Recently I wanted to do convert my friends wheelset to tubeless. Front was fine. When I inflated the rear, at 3.5Bar/50psi the tyre exploded off with a huge bang. Sealant everywhere, my hand injured, the rim bent. Wheelset Etherteen TRS+, tyres Onza. Both tubeless ready.
The tyre was not destroyed, it just popped over the rim.
How could that happen? Was there a defect on the tyre? An error in production process?
Sounds like the pressure gauge on your pump may be incaccurate. I found that the gauge on my pump was under-reading significantly when I compared it with a stand alone tyre gauge.
colinprprpr these were rated 70psi, so that was not the problem..
progeocaching
I used a compressor which has two pressure gauges on its own, and for safety reasons released pressure from the tank itself until it was as low as 60psi. So three gauges were showing the same pressure...
I like this guy's videos, they are very useful, easy to understand and he shows every possible scenario if one is missing something
If you fill tires with c02 tube how do you know how much pressure is in your tire?
Spent about 500 miles on it and so far so good. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA Pros:1. Very light2. Solid quality build3. Fast delivery: It arrived 5 weeks earlier than expected.4. Easy assemblyJust a few cons but nothing major:1. Cheap tin tubes and had flat on first day... but not a big deal. I replaced the tubes.2. Seat is a bit uncomfortable but that's pretty much the same situation with most bikes.3. Seat post is a bit long/high for a smaller size 48 bike - had to saw 2 inch off to fit properly. The lowest setting is too high. The post locking system does not seem to hold well (perhaps because I saw 2 inch off).4. wheels are not tubeless compatible (from what I can tell)
First off i am a huge gmbn fan. Always have been. You guys put on a quality informative show(Everytime) but when describing shortcuts Doddy tends to use the word "ghetto" As a person who grew up in an actual Ghetto this hits my ears with offense. Not mad just want to clarify that the "ghetto" is where home is to some people. Using that word when describing a shortcut implies the ghetto is half-ass or less-than. To me the ghetto was unity, togetherness and community due to the fact we had to rely on each other to survive. I'm sure people may disagree or think im being too sensitive but "the ghetto) made some of us who we are and im not less than. Didn't mean to rant just think you could use another word...much love from the West Cypress Ghetto, Santa Maria, California
Just attempted tubeless conversation. Total and complete FAIL.Installed tubes. Used Fix-A-Flat (combination sealant and compressed air in a can). Will take to my local bike shop for a proper tubeless installation when I get around to it. F this S!
Dry run ain't gonna work for legacy rims and thin bead tube style tires. I successfully seated two sets of twenty year old 26 inch Mavic rims using Gorilla tape, Slime and a wet setup. Was it easy? Hell, no. The tires fit the rim so loosely that you could stick your finger between bead and rim. Did it work? Hell, yes. They work as well as my modern 27.5 tubeless style rims set up dry, once you get them aired up and ride them for an hour or two.
I made my own inflator with a 2L coca cola bottle covered in gorilla tape and drilled 2 holes in the bottle cap to fit two valves - one of which with a piece of tubing attached. I just clamp the tubing, pump up the bottle to 50psi, and release the clamp. Presto - all done and cost pennies! There's an excellent 'How To' video on BikeRadar's channel on here. Look it up! You can buy the tubing etc on eBay.
Inflators are crazy expensive, more than a cheep compressor. There's lots of diy hacks on the Internet using garden sprayers. My inflator is a co2 fire extinguisher and a welding regulator, I service a guys bike at a fire extinguisher company in return for free exchange of partly discharged bottles, you just have to store them upside down because of the inner dip tube.
Fuck it I'm sticking to Dr sludge innertubes and smart sam plus tyrez, just as good all for the sake of getting a little less resistance in ride quality and saving about half a Kilogram inertia. I mean sure, if you race competitively then I can see how it's worth it.
I recently converted to a tubeless WTB ranger 29” , tested the bike on paved path for the first time and rear tire blew up. Cleaned up the sealant mess when I got home and put air back but I didn’t put tubeless sealant since I don’t have any at home. Tried to test ride it but seems to be losing air pressure still. Should I put tubeless sealant to the rear tire again? Or any suggestions.. just want to start riding with no more hassles 😫
I had one quick question because I've got tubeless tires on my bike but I don't carry CO2 with me while out on the trail I've just got a little hand pump that I use but I have my home pump would I be able to use that pump or would it strictly just be a CO2 cartridge that I'll need for when I do see my new tires on my rims
If you have a garden pressure/weed sprayer you can successfully adapt it to dump a load of air into the tyre instantly, it worked for me, plenty of you tube videos on how to do this.
If it doesn't work you can just put it back to how it was, it's cost you nothing but time
🤔hey doddy, please could you tell me what psi to run on a tubless set up, for the road commute to work, im 90kgs, at the moment I'm running them at 30psi🤔👍
Step 1. Dont go tubeless. There is a reason why tubes were around for such a long time. They're easy to patch, easy to replace. Tubeless tires are a nightmare to mount because they dont fit the rim properly. They almost require a pair of tin snips to remove them if I do get a flat
when you fucked up youre tubeless tyre, this shit milk is all on you, bike, everything, and like one guy said up here.. always take a spare tube :D
or instead of shaking the wheel to slosh it why not just fill the wheel up with a solid block of sealant.
set the valve to the top of the wheel and keep squirting in sealant until no more can go in then you only have a small air pocket in the tire.
then inflate the tire
you could also use the trick used for seating car tires spray a very small amount of flammable liquid in and light it and whoosh tire seats.
of course it is not without its dangers.
i would add that CO2 should not be used in combination with sealant. it's fine to seat the tire at first but once you have sealant inside - it's not recommended (all of sealants i've used have that warning on the bottle).
Until they make true tubeless rims and true tubeless tyres, without any stupid tape, sealant and special valves, that is inconvenient
Try to read my post some years later and you will know why
Mega tip for going tubeless on a tubeless ready bike, pump your tire with a tube and only un bead one side of the tire this Will help a Lot when seating i got it first try twice with a floor pump withour removing the valve core
So when Doddy showed added the tape to the inside of the rim ... seems like he failed to add a hole where the valve goes and showed himself taping over it. I assume you'd want the air to be between the tape and tire and not between the tape and rim (or go nowhere beacuse there is no space with the inside of the valve sealed).
Not all sealants are compatible with CO2-cartridges - although most high quality sealants are.
Try a 2.25 schwalbe on a 32mm duke rim, without the brakecleaner hack they wouldnt fit😹
Yeah but doesn't necessarily have to be a tomb less rim and tire to work some people can't get a tubeless rim and tire to work together
What happens when you need to take off your tires? I imagine it's like taking off the blenders lid while it's in use.
Getting the beads to seat on the rim on a new tire is the worst part. After that its badass
My syringe clogged up fairly quickly. I willl pour the sealant next time
Use to care about all this shit..... now just wanna ride and give 0 fuck bout this .....
I pumped up my tyres with just a floor pump and with the valvecores still there 😅🙈
Søren Vinter, and that worked alright, didn't it?
Yes it did :)
So I have I - it requires a lot of vigourous pumping and also trying to make sure the tyre is close to the side of the rim...
Ditto. So satisfying to hear those sharp “pings.” Then sealant thru the valve, and good to go.
Of course, it helps to have tires and rims from the same manufacturer, specifically designed for this...
I would think tubeless tires have thicker rubber.... Apparently not...
After I fit the tire without the sealant and do the dry run I can hear air leaking out at higher pressure. Does that mean I didn't do it right or is it gonna be fine after I put in the sealant?
If you seal it up would that defeat the purpose because air not contacting metal pike
its more practical to have an inner tube than tubeless
Until you get a pinch flat
my maxxis never poped enden using a tube....
Good video guys , now i Appreciate you have to pay the rent but adding a 30 second advert to all you videos now is too much for me i am afraid , 15 seconds is the max my attention span can handle and its not even for mountain bike product !!!!
Tubeless tyres are shit and too much hassle, basically do normal tyres and that's.
if you don't use soapy water to seat the bead, do you find it is more likely to leak?
First mistake is using a Continental tire. That mistake I'll never do again.
I am using tubeless for 3 months now. I am happy with it. But one problem: The tyres lose air over night. I have to pump it up every ride. Does anybody know why ? Maybe a solution?
Rim not sealed? tire not fully seated? Tire not tubeless ready?
If the pressure is dropping really slowly then it's probably the rim tape. Take the tyre off and check for damage to the tape. Even the smallest of holes can be a problem. Either remove the tape and put fresh on, wrap a second layer of tape over the first or patch any holes, I've used electrical tape to patch holes and it seems to hold up. It can be worth getting a (large) bucket of water and with the tyre inflated dunking it in the water and checking that the air isn't leaking from somewhere else, like a badly seated tyre.
Co2 is not good for sealant!!! It causes the sealant to "split" and will weep clear liquid from any holes eventually making the repair break down
Depends on the sealant. I know Continental sealant says do not use CO2 but Stans says you can use CO2. I'd just double check with the sealant you use as to whether CO2 is OK to use or not.
I inflate the air with a handpump and its working perfect💀💀💀
Dude, with a mini pump! Just bought my new wheels (Stans Arch) and I was swapping my tires from old rims ID 19mm non tubeless and installation on both rims was super easy. I think what's most important is to match the tire with the rim. WTB is known to have a snag fit and it's harder to put on a rim than say Kenda, but once installed they pop in place like it's magic.
CO2 on dry run only so you don’t freeze the sealant
These tips even work on road tires 😁
who else makes their own sealant?
What's your secret blend of herbs and spices? 🤔 😉
Global Mountain Bike Network does it mater if the tyre is old
BeatJumper 👽 I make my own using BAMFS 2.0 recipe. Works well, even in the Arizona desert and it's a lot cheaper than Stan's.
Google search for Wadester Secret Sauce Version 1 (WSS V1).
I use the milk from my cow
One and only mistake is going tubeless. Just some of the things you won't need if you have a tube: $20 sealant bottle, $10 valve core tool, gorilla strength to mount tires, $200 air compressor!
I am runing e13 trs+ with procore and magic mary. i pump it up to 28 and 20 psi and after every ride i am loosing about 3psi or more..... am i supposed to ride with even more pressure to prevent burping or ist it the tire-rim combination that sucks? i am 185pound ride ready and riding pretty rocky terrain.... any suggestions?
I am obviously making some massive basic mistake! I follow the steps, but cannot seem to be able to pump air into the wheel whatsoever (dry, no sealant liquid). It all leaks somehow out instantly, without creating any pressure inside the tire. I am using Ritchey tubeless ready rims, and Panaracer tubeless ready tires. Valve is placed the only way it can be placed as it has a circular rubber seal (and it's tightened too to the rim). I appreciate any tips!
You guys might be interested in the new Fillmore Tubeless valve. It solves a lot of the silly issues that are created with the standard Presta valve. Low flow, clogging, not being able to seat a tire etc.......ua-cam.com/video/l1wqclp4u1U/v-deo.html
My cube attention has Schrader valves, do I need to get Schrader tubeless set (sure I've seen these), or do I need to get a presta setup (and will this be fine in a slightly larger hole originally designed for schrader)?
GMBN, great work as always and fantastic channel. 🚵🚴
Yea first thing that pomp is not cheap, second you need a good tape not every "tubeless" tape works.
I try to go tubeless and it is a lot of hassle. The tape I have is shit I put my tier and there is no way it will seal for the dry run. In the end I put 3 layers and still no seal, I give up and return to tubes. Tubeless is for those rich guys.
There's valid discussion around the CO2 issue where its cold temperature can ball up the sealant resulting in premature sealant failure. If using a CO2 cartridge, it's best to fill with the tire valve in the 12 o'clock position (so most of the sealant is at the 6 o'clock position, furthest away) and to let the gas in slowly. Of course, with a new tire this fact is irrelevant since you can use CO2 to mount the tire, prior to injecting sealant.
Doddy - I'm planning go go tubeless on my 2004 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo. Bought this bike used about a year ago and have been riding/working on it since. This is my next upgrade. So, I was at the LBS looking at what options they had for tape, valves, and sealant. During my conversation with the tech he pointed out that the sealant manufacturers state the sealant has a useful life. What he couldn't tell me is do I just sweeten the sealant with another dose or would it be better to remove the tire and wipe down the inside of the tire and rim before recharging. Hope you can provide some good advice. Thanks, Tom
Don't use CO2 to inflate tubeless tyres!!!!!!!. Use normal air. When I use CO2 my sealant dries in 3 weeks. If I use normal air, it will only dry after 4 months.
First time setup, 29er stans no tubes and Minion DHF new tires. I have gotten the tires onto the rims and inflated to around 40psi, but I have not yet heard the "pop", I am using a floor pump and tires are holding at 40psi overnight - should I go higher pressure until the beads pop?
How about dealing with recalcitrant tyres that say they are Tubeless Ready but aren't really.
PS 6 years here flat free thanks to tubeless and the impressive boogers. Tubes can go DIAF.
The most. Importante for me. Is installing a tube inside de Wheel and inflate it so that the tire pops. Into place or against the bead, then remove the tube from one side and put the tire back together into the rim. And then inflate with compressor and it will pop into place, your welcome