6 Tubeless Tyre Mistakes | Mountain Bike Rider
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- Опубліковано 11 чер 2024
- Tubeless tyre setup is great, but there are some common mistakes which you really need to avoid. | Click here to subscribe: ua-cam.com/users/MBRmagaz...
The basics of tubeless
Apologies if we go back to basics here. Some of you will know a lot of this initial explanation of what tubeless is, so bear with us while we illuminate things for those who still need the fundamentals explaining better.
Are your wheels tubeless?
Not all wheels are tubeless. In fact, the majority of them won’t be.
For a wheel to be able to be run tubeless it needs to have something inside the rim that prevents air escaping through the spoke holes.
On tubeless specific wheels this sometimes means a sealed rim bed where the rim is covered up by rim metal. On other tubeless wheels a tight-fitting band around the rim covers the holes.
If your wheels are not tubeless, don’t worry, you can convert them into tubeless wheels with one of the many tubeless conversion kits available from companies like Stans No Tubes. These typically compromise of some special airtight rim tape and/or a rubber strip that goes over the spoke holes, some tyre sealant and a valve (either on its own or built into the aforementioned rubber strip).
Are your tyres tubeless?
Not all tyres are tubeless. Having said that, the majority of recently released tyres will be tubeless. Look on the sidewall of your tyre(s) for a telltale phrase ie. Tubeless, Tubeless Ready, TLE, TLR, TCS, 2Bliss and do a bit of Googling if you’re unsure what your tyre’s acronyms actually mean.
Tubeless tyres are different to standard non-tubeless tyres in that the carcass is airtight. If you try to run non-tubeless tyres as tubeless then the air will just slowly leak out of the carcass. Tubeless tyres have a fully sealed interior.
What does the sealant do?
It stops air leaking out of things. In the very early days of tubeless some systems (early UST) tried to do without sealant but they nigh on impossible to setup and weren’t very reliable on the trail either.
You need sealant. It’s what stops air leaking under the tyre bead or through the rim tape and spoke holes.
Sealant works a lot like the blood in your body. It stays liquid up until a hole is encountered at which point the blood/sealant rushes to the holes, coagulates, clots up and scabs over the hole. No more leaking.
Getting your tyre on and inflated
Putting a tubeless tyre on to a wheel is the same as putting a standard non-tubeless tyre on to a wheel. But there are a couple of things you can do to make the next step (tyre inflation) a bit easier and more reliable.
Getting a tubeless tyre to inflate is The Main Problem with setting up tubeless. It’s the only thing that makes the process different to a non-tubeless tyre setup.
Inflation problems can be maddening. They can lead to you giving up the whole tubeless idea and just bunging an inner tube in!
We’re here to help. Preparation and having the right equipment is key.
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First off great video. I work at a bike shop and have done many setups. I have a few extra tips that might help those looking to tackle this. First off inflating the tire with a tube first is a great idea but you can kill 2 birds with 1 stone if you do your tubeless tape before doing this as the pressure in the tube will press the tape into the rim and create a better seal. Secondly, inflating the tire onto the bead before adding sealant will make less mess. The third is that the tip of most of those single dose bottles will fit directly into the valve once the core is removed, creating less mess again. Also those bottles when empty can be used to suck sealant out of a tire if you squeeze the air out of the bottle first. This creates less mess and allows you to reuse most of your old sealant when changing tires. Last but not least, for all those that complain this is a hassle, some tubes have a removable valve core and you can put a small amount of sealant inside to prevent slow leaks from thorns.
I'm doing this conversion, can I use a tubeless Schrader valve instead of a presta valve?
@@obadaalomari1821 Nope. [actually you can, but it is very hard to find+buy the right value - so "nope"]
Obada Alomari Yes you can , Nutrack do schrader tubeless valves, available from any shop with a Madison account.
I didn’t know the valve lock ring could be too tight. Thanks for the great tips and video.
super counter intuitive but yea good to see, similar to a pinched O-ring. Also the extra compression when pressurized will add even more deformation causing it to leak more and more as you pump and pump. Can get super frustrating haha
great video, running tubeless for many years but still glad to hear new tricks.
i always seat the tyre without sealant then i release the air out of it before i fill it through the valve with sealant.
no mess and Super easy
Folded tires was my problem, now solved tubeless completed. It worked for me to pass the tire tool a couple of times aiming to the folded areas until almost straight. Thanks for your video.
The trick with the silicone-polish worked for me really well (since I had one at home and I am working with only a handpump).
My silicone-polish has a little sponge in the front so application is way less messy.
For people who don’t have an air tank or compressor lying around and are pumping with a foot pump, get a sponge and soak it with water and dish soap. Apply the soapy water/sponge along the edge of the rim and tire (both side). Start pumping and watch the tire air up. There may or may not be a pop because of the soapy water but that is ok. If the air is staying in, the beads are seating. Magic...
BTW, make sure your tire is mounted the correct direction for proper traction and performance.
Can I do this with my tire mounted or do I have to pull it off my front fork
I wish I could watch this before working on my bike tires for the first time! I almost faced with all of these problems:) Thanks for the video!
I set my tyres up tubeless last week, new bike with tubeless ready tyres and rims, i thought why not. I got the joes kit off wiggle for about £17 thinking if it went wrong on my first try it wouldnt be too costly. Realy happy with them, thought id made a coblers of it at first cos i lost pressure over the first night, but after id been for a ride they seemed to settle in. Im surprised at the difference it makes, especially on cornering.
i’m so glad Vision was available to help with this video
Very well-done tutorial. Loved the tips. Thanks!
Thanks for the tips, it definitely helped out and made it easier.
Cheers
This videos incredibly helpful. Thanks mate
I did my 1st tubeless today & had no issues. If you have the right products its a simple job. Just take your time!
Try it out "dry" first! This way you can iron out any mistakes you are making before spilling all your milk everywhere. Once you got your tire seated without milk. Do it again with sealant.
I agree with above, get the tyre seated first, to add sealant after I remove the core of the valve then inject the sealant using a rockshox/sram syringe which screws into the valve. No mess.
This is how I do it and has worked well for me on all of my bikes with different sizes and widths (26", 29", 27.5", skinny, fat, and plus).
Why are you calling it milk? Most sealant brands are bright colours like orange or green. Doc blue is white, though.
Possibly because there is no crying over spilt milk.
stan's sealant looks like cream
This us a good tutorial. Direction of rotation of the tyre is always important to note and fit onto the rim. We’ve all done an absolute great and neat job, just as we’re feeling smug about it, someone else points out that the tyre looks like it’s not facing the right direction Damn! Damn! Damn!
Brilliant video and love the tips and tricks as well as alternative products such as the gorilla tape and silicone polish. Thank you!
Thanks for your great advises
Great useful and detailed video. Keep them coming.
To help put the hole in the right place in the tape for the valve, I used the valve itself from the inside of the rim to make a dimple in the tape, by gently pushing it in from inside, to locate where the tape should be pierced. you'll see exactly where it needs to be!
Thanks a lot, my problem was leaking air from valve, probably i'm overtigh the valve too much. I need to try again with your advice.
+1.25 playback speed makes this easier to watch.
2x
So much easier
I think this is good overall.
Saves time.
Thanks for that idea.
If this guy has a spirit animal, it's a sloth.
I didn't mind it how it was :')
Great informative video.
Lol. I just found out why my valve kept leaking. I thought tightening it down harder would make it stop leaking. Top tips mate.
Can you correct this once it's done? I overtightened and caused the leak, but now even when I loosen up it's still leaking.
@@v.garcia9585 Did the same thing, you'll have to take a look at the valve stem rubber, and tape on the rim. Might have to replace both in worst case scenario.
I got to go with the tried and true chrome screw in metal automotive valve stem. And you tighten the valve stem tight and they last as long as your vehicle will. I will have to enlarge bike hole just a little.
Great tutorial, thanks.
guyd4067 ii
The silicone is a great tip. It worked!
I have always used electrical insulating tape and cheap and no weight and does a great job.
Soapy water works for me. Note not all tubeless valves have removable core (check first and if not, replace is my advice) and note that some rims want a valve with a particular seat profile
Make sure your tyre is on the right way round... ie rolling direction before you inflate 🤔
Cycle London iv made this mistake a load of times..some disaster
Nothing like finally getting your second bitchy tubeless tire setup just to realize you're about to have to redo it lol.
Exactly. Learnt this the hard way today.
As a rodie, most tires are not directional, and if they are and you don't have disc brakes at least the front can be put in either direction (and swap the skewer if the lever side bothers you). Thanks for the heads up for when I put my gravel bike together :)
Nice Opinel! Love those light knifes!
Have to agree 👍 simple, safe and a must in any all day kit bag
Great tips, just found your channel along with GMBN. I am making the transition to tubeless, after being out of the sport for a while. Tech has changed radically since I was active. I am refurbishing some of my old equipment, that has sadly been collecting dust for around a decade or more. I have an olds-cool, Ibis Szazbo (1997) with a Zokie Bomber fork that I am swapping out for a triple tree model. My old 1st Gen Hayes disc brakes are out, for a Magura setup. I am replacing my old SRAM Grip Shift with newer SRAM GX 2x10 rear, a new chain and rear stack. ditching the front triple for a single 34T.
Thanx for the tips, again. If I may, I would like to offer a tip in turn. In those close ups, you are always looking off camera, bad form. Always look INTO the camera.
Peace, Wolf
Don't make the mistake of thinking because you put sealant in 12 months ago it's still effective..its dried out. At the beginning of every season re-fill the tire with sealant
Very informative video, thanks! How does one go about removing old/dried sealant from inside the rim and tyre?
kitchen towel as much as you can , wash out with warm water, kitchen towel again, leave overnight to dry out, kitchen towel again. Worked for me on a friends set up where he'd used some horrible blue stuff, that was sticking the sidewalls together.
Thanks for the info, ole chap!
If you're having issues getting it to seat and have tried all the tricks. Try using a ratchet strap around the tire, it forces it up against the sidewall getting it to seat easy. Couldn't get a tire to seat, even with a compressor, soapy water, and the valve core out but the strap did it.
Agreed, I use a ratchet strap for tubeless hand truck tires as well, which can be a real bitch to reseat. It's a great trick.
In theory you set it up once then ride it for 6-12 months without it puncturing and that is super attractive for a commuter bike. After getting two punctures in two weeks on my otherwise reliable commuter bike I'm thinking the initial hassle of going tubeless would be easily worth it.
@mstrbkr Seriously? lol. I had about 15 goatheads in my front and rear tires the other day. I pulled them all out and could hear the symphony of hissing. Just put my bike on the stand and spun the tires... all holes sealed. I pumped the tires up to 40psi and let them sit overnight. Still good, as always.
With a tube, you'd have to remove both wheels, take off the tires, replace the tubes and reinstall everything. More time consuming and more expensive.
This cargo strap trick really works. And soapy water on the sidewalls
@@MrHeepspo Only to find out you still have goathead thorns inside your tires and have to pull them apart another time. I have had easy 100 goathead holes in a my tires once just riding over one abandoned lot to get to a local bike shop. I got to the shop and started seeing orange sealant coming out of zillion holes, they sealed up just fine. Tubeless has it's place if you ride in the desert SW of USA.
I have an old rear wheel with a mystery freehub make thats busted, I use that to stretch out tyres with a inner tube prior to fitting on my good wheels
I've been using a bit of sealant on tire trick to put them on for years and this is the first video that mentions this. Never wanted any damn soapy water in my tires.
Project reworked my 2007 disc rims Schrader valve setup used motor cycle tube valves I used dremel to clean up and shape for rim valley. Used windshield sealant at 1 inch tape penetration. Added some sealant I found then inflated to 60 to 65 pounds let sit over night slowly roll the tire to get sealant every inch of tire then flip a few times check tire pressure a few times if still hard flip a few more times roll then let sit.
One tip for you is fairy washing up liquid bubbles. Rub onto bead before a rush of compressed air and hey presto its seated.! Great vid
Great video i watched the whole thing!
Good stuff! Thanks.
hello, replying to old video. i'm glad i watch this before tightening down the valve nut. i have the stans tubeless valves, doesn't come with an o-ring either. i was under impression that the o-ring was to keep the nut from loosening and to keep valve from vibrating on the rim, and keep from scratching carbon rim (is this a nonissue? w/o o-ring?) when i tighten finger tight, the valve still can wiggle a little. i feel like it will rattle when riding as well. will this be an issue or will the air pressure be enough to keep it from rattling? thank you!
A few more
- i couldn't seal my winter tires from last season - they were leaking air and compressor couldn't pressure it. What helped finally was dense soap foam (a lot of soap slices shaked with a few drops of water) - like a foam for a cake... once the tire seated in place it was perfectly sealed. My mistake - left the tire for months not removing old sealant - which is. As well significant weight penalty...
2nd - deep rim bed can cause a lot of issues - I am using softer and narrower tape to seal it and 2nd layer of wider once the 1st is pushed in (i.e. using pressure)
3rd - sealant differs (even the best well known). If your tubeless setup is running out of air quickly and the air is not leaking through the valve you may consider changing a sealant (it helped a few times with lite skin tires from schwalbe)
I had problems with beading the tire up, so take presta valve out and us air compressor, with rubber tip air blower and gently blow air in valve hole being careful not to use to much air and just wait a few minutes it will pop on! I had a 8 way spoke wrench and found a square that fit prista valve perfect!
Nice video, what kind of valve you guys used there ?
Great stuff. Really learnt a lot from that.
learned* tard
@@crimescene25 Look in the Oxford Dictionary. It can be either.
Once I learned to take the valve core out, which interferes with a blast of air in to the tire, I never needed any other special tricks again. pull the pump chuck off and put the core back in.
OI MATE, YOU GOT A LOICENSE FOR THAT KNIFE?
Knoife*
just a random educated human Knoice!!
"A complete doddle..." Imma have to use that word one day lol
Looked good. Didn't understand why he was spinning tyre and sloshing it about before it was beaded though... Surely that's gonna get messy? Thanks
Opinel No.7... Classic!
Sorry man, but the last step is a horrible fuckup, putting the sealant in, without fitting the tyre on the rim and then having the sealant pissing all over the place:
1st put the tyre on the rim
2nd remove the valve core
3rd burst some air into it, let the bead pop on the rim
4th release the air
5th apply sealant through the the valve (no special tool needed, i.e. Stans 2oz bottles have perfect shape to be used for that)
6th put the valve core back
7th spin the mutharfucker couple of times
8th pump it up to some 40psi
9th spin it again
10th take the bike for a ride so the sealant spreads properly
Works like a charm every time, without tire cum spraying all over the shop...
#Tubes4life
Only way to do it !
Well said
I have not done this yet but was thinking the same. Searched lots of videos only to find your post.
If you’re relying on the sealant to fix poor bead fit, then that tyre will leak riding. I’m going to clean the 6 month old sealant and shop fitted tyres, pop cleaned tyre back on without the core. Inflate to pop bead back and check for leaks or bad fit. Deflate. Add sealant. Inflate and check for leaks. Ride bike round the block. Leave for 24hrs and check pressure and top air. Then ride that Mutherfuka! 👊🏼
I love it when the comments are much better than the tutorial itself. This video would've been a total waste of time without your comment!
I don't like sheep jizz all over my tools either, my method is pretty much this except that you can pinch the tyre sidewall and rock the wheel to the side to put the bead closer to seating before you start pumping. I don't bother with tubeless inflators, even without sealant. A low-volume, high pressure pump can supply enough volume for all the combos I've tried with pretty minimal effort. Once you've inflated dry you can pop a section of one bead to add fluid again, roll the open section to the top and reseat easily with no mess - if your sealant prefers not to go through valve stems, or if you've misplaced the remover/needle nosed pliers.
Great video. I have just bought my other half a Trek Neo with Bontrager LT2 Comp 700x32 tyres on Bontrager TLR rims . I want to fit the widest tyre on this rim and go Tubeless but cannot find any info?
Can you please advise. thanks and have a good New Year
A tip i picked up from other video to assist the Rim tape for better adhesion is to refit old tyre and tube inflate and leave overnight
great. thanks
The valve seals that I have and came with the bike are of a rectangular shape, which direction is best to insert them. Do they go perpendicular to the sides of the rim or do they sit in the wheel well?
Need Advice.
My tire is beaded correctly (holds air). I ride at 40 PSI. There was a small section where the sealant stops air from leaking through the bead, the issue is when I land a jump or have a descent impact the seal from the sealant breaks and sealant pops out. It re-seals but in a single trip I can lose 5 to 10 PSI from this. Is this normal or whats the way to fix it?
Nice video! Was hoping u guys could do a video on how to unblock valve cores. After having sealant in my tires for awhile, my valve cores tend to block up with dry sealant. Wondering what the best way is to unblock them without removing the tire?
replace them when clogged
What he said about over tightening the locknut on the valve is the number one problem I see when people bring wheels they are having issues with into the shop. If you do overtighten the valve and mess up the tape you don't neccesarily have to redu all the tape. You can clean the sealant off the tape really well by the valve hole with isopropyl alcohol. Then apply two more strips of tape going about 3 inches on either side of the valve hole. It helps to cut these tape patches narrower by just a few millimeters so you dont create issues with the tire seating. Patching the tape at the valve hole like this is not ideal and may not work but tubeless tape is expensive to be starting all over again. Also what he said about tape width. Some time's have an odd width that dosen't match all brands of tubless tape. Make sure you buy tape that is not too wide and will not bunch up on the inner side of the rim. It can make it a nightmare for the tire to seat.
Make sure the valve is centred in the middle of the tyre logo.
A spare link from a SRAM 1 x 11 chain is the perfect size for a valve core remover. Male link in the centre.
@John Seba Style points.
I have a pair of wheels that tubeless ready and I have been using tubeless tires with sealant for over a year. I bought recently a new set of tires (also tubeless) but I realised there's a leak. Shall I change the rim tape? Or will running with inner tubes for a bit seal the leak and I can remove the inner tube later on?
One thing not mentioned is the problem l have which is air coming out from the spoke nipples. After a bit of reading I think it might be due to over-tightening the valve meaning the valve is pulled too far down leading to air coming in to the cavity in the rim. This was kind of mentioned in the video but not in this exact sense.
I still have to check if this is actually what happened in my case but hopefully the info is helpful for others anyway.
do you need tubeless ready tires to make the tubeless conversion work?
Can i put tubeless ready tires on non tubeless rims?
From my own experience, you can. You just have to use a tube as the tire beads won't seal properly on rims that don't have the bead locking system designed for tubeless use.
However, I have come across "non tubeless" ready rims that aren't designated as "tubeless ready" (many china made rims that just copied the bead lock design but doesn't claim to be tubeless) but actually can lock tubeless tire beads and complete the tire seal.
Only way to find out is to do a dry run installation (without the sealant) with a pressure can / air shot / air compressor with air tank to blast the tire and try to seat it. If it locks and holds air, that rim could in theory be used for a tubeless setup. You will then have to pump sealant in and monitor the tire pressure day to day to see if it seals properly. If it works, it works.
I am always going to use a soldering iron to get my hole in the tape. Works reals good so far and needs no big force.
Be careful with too much pressure and overtightening the valve lock ring. I had tremendous problems getting my tires to hold air until I realized I was over-pressurizing them. The extra pressure caused air to push through the valve hole and distended the o-ring. Once the o-ring pushed its way past the lock ring, there was no way to keep the tires inflated. I also, in an effort to make sure the valve hole was sealed cranked down on the lock ring -- same thing happens: distorted o-ring and a big leak.
So, did you have to replace the o'ring? I don't think I even saw the guy in the video use the o-ring. Was wondering if it was even necessary. Thanks
Nice vid anyway, mate!!
nice knife. I carry a #9
What you say it’s a big difference if my rims are not rubles ready but my tires are....I’m
Wondering if I should give it a go....a new set of rims is pretty expensive
Imho valves made out of inner tubes are the best. u can custom it to ur rim and have the best seal. The best part, they are free!
Several months ago I went to a bicycle shop that according to yelp and even trip adviser was awarded 5 stars, but when my tubeless tire kept pancaking, and they kept telling me that it'll be fine ...that was I decided to do my own work. And I'll be honest ...the videos that point out often made mistakes AND how to make them right are helping the most. As far as I know --there doesn't seem to be any certified training(aka tech schools or colleges) when it comes to bicycle repair, so the only way to learn, is to simply get out there & DIY. Plus if you're into touring like me, that's even more the reason to DIY, because they don't call it "in middle of nowhere" for nothing.
Thanks for that video! Now I know why I should use soap water. For some reason nobody told about it
In regards to Tip 1, what about keeping your tire outdoors in the hot sun for an afternoon? Would the heat help to soften up the kinks in the bead??
Excellent point...what was I thinking???
i found putting the rim between you feet and give it a tight pull and follow it around keeping that tention and over lap and youll have no probs
I don't know about the UK, but brake cleaner in the US is definitely NOT the same as isopropyl.
Atlas WalkedAway depends on brand. Some are quite nasty to get on the skin.
What do you recommend for my non tubeless rim into tubeless, what valve will I use. The tubeless valve or non tubeless valve?
Just put the liquid in your tubes
Is it possible to fit a 27,5 tyre on a 27,5 plus rim using tubeless ?
I’ve asked my local bike shop to set up my new bike tubeless but not sure I’ve made the right decision what do you guys think
I have got the problem that my tubeless tire is leaking a bit of the sealant. What could be the cause?
Can I use white spirit to clean my rims?
The problem I am having trying to go tubeless is getting the tire to set. I have two hand pumps and a shop compressor. The air seems to go out the fitting adaptor as if the adaptor is not working correctly. I tried other air chucks and the same thing happens. The tire was soaped and that did not help. Has anyone else had this problem? How did you fix it
Can't wait for new technology to make this process a thing of amusing past
Trying to inflate my tubeless tyre dry with a co2 inflator tried everything can't get air into it grrrr nice vid👍
Co2 makes sealant go off faster, don’t use it.
Hello, Great video! In asking how much air pressure can the Gorilla handle. My tires are rated at 115 PSI? Thanks
We probably wouldn't recommend putting 115psi in any bike tyre! Most riders run max 30psi in a mountain bike tyre.
Do you think a heat gun could help with seating the tape really good
eric no, it could melt the tape and possibly damage the rim.
I have just recently purchased a mtb. I haven't had to use a bike since the 70's as a child. I live in the west texas desert, many little sharp things, not so much on the road buy still, they are unavoidable. I've tried to understand by the comments but, as someone new to this, I don't know who is correct. My bike is a Schwinn abbott(shimano) full suspension 29inch 21 speed. Walmart bike but it's what i can afford. I want to know if tubeless, that's how it came, if i get a puncture, is fixing it the same as repairing the tube, but from the inside?
If there's enough sealant inside the tire,just adding in the proper air pressure should allow the sealant to fill the puncture.Happy Trails.
How do I choose the length to order a tubeless valve?
Hi i have 622 x 17 rims so would 15mm width of tape be ok?
Can I got tubeless with standard rim and TLR tires?
what about the tyre seating then after deflation unseating again, with the same pop as it went on Giant rims and 3 types of tyre including Giant's own none of them stay seated
IF your rim in non TCS do you think it is safe to convert?
If your rim has vent holes and you get air leaking out of them, check that your rim tape is good. Also, check that you have a good seal between the rim tape/strip and the valve. For Bontragers with rim strips, an o-ring is needed to be on the valve when its put through the rim strip. The o-ring compresses against the valve and the rim strip. Without a good valve/rim tape seal, you will lose air through the outside of the valve. If your rim has vent holes, then the air will go out that way.
For rims that has the valve hole at an angle to the valve centerline, you need to get a little creative. Normally, the valve centerline is 90degrees to the valve hole, but if the hole is drilled at an angle, even with a rubber cone on the valve, you won't be able to adequately seal the valve against the rim. You would need an o-ring that thicker on one side and thinner on the other. You can use Shoe Goo and build up the valve seal to the rim tape Building up this seal takes time for Shoe Goo to dry. Take this time to come up with a conical wedge to put on the valve on the outside. Find a spout that starts out wide and narrows down . You will cut the wide side at an angle that matches your rim, and the narrow side, you cut square/straight. This straight side will be against the valve nut.
Use a little RTV sealant on the rubber boot of the valve as well as an o ring on the other side
cool opinel
so question regarding the pressure needed for the bead to pop in ...
lets say my rim's max pressure for the tire width is 37 psi and my tire's max pressure is 60 psi ..... which one should i go for ?
60
and then you realise you put it on backwards
Dave Walsh *begins twisting rim into Möbius strip*
so...many...times! even though i drew an arrow on the tyre...
😅💀
Mine leaks through the seem in my rim
when everything is fine and tight. rotation is always wrong :-)
does it work on anykind of tire?
What about running too low tire pressures
can i use motorcycle valve on bike rim??? because i want to pump air easily cause its compatible on any gasoline station there is air pump for motorcycle/cars…
Some rims accept a Shraeder valve, but not many on high performance MTBs. However, you can buy a cheap and simple adaptor that will let you use a garage inflator on a presta valve. Just be careful not to exceed the safe pressure.
just bought my other half a Trek Neo with Bontrager LT2 Comp 700x32 tyres on Bontrager TLR rims . I want to fit the widest tyre on this rim and go Tubeless but cannot find any info?
Can you please advise. thanks and have a good New Year
Not sure as we don’t really cover bikes with 700c wheels, but you might be able to go to a 40c or larger tyre depending on frame clearance.