Doddy: When pouring sealant directly into the tire: After putting in tire, keep the wheel vertical, turn it slowly until the tire opening is at top. Finish mounting last bit of bead. Inflate and seat tire bead, before sloshing sealant around inside of tire. This will minimize - eliminate sealant leaking out before bead is seated. Cheers Michigan, USA
If you have trouble seating the tyre for the first time, USE A TUBE, inflate as normal and pop the bead into place. Once you have that done, crack only ONE side of the tyre back off the rim, remove the tube and secure your tubeless valve in place. Having one side of the tyre already seated makes it significantly easier to seat the rest of the tyre again later, especially if you're not using a compressor. Reseat the tyre without the tube or sealant just to make sure you can, then either crack the bead to pour your sealant in, or feed it through the valve stem.
This depends really on the the rim you have.. On some rims this works amazing but on other, mostly wide and shallow rims (like my Halo Vortex) the tire doesn’t get seated properly when having a tube in it. This happens since the tube bulks up the tire to much for the shallow rim and then sits a bit above the rim, where it would sit in a tubeless setup. So if you deflate the tire, after you inflated it with a tube, the tire still doesn’t sit properly.
I just got my first tubeless setup, thanks for guide through it worked perfectly. Got a little messy putting the valve cores back in, mopped up the living room floor and it's back to normal. Glad I don't have carpet 🙂
Really informative video! I wasted around 50 Bucks on a conversion kit and after almost 5 hours of getting the things sealed up, one of the tires was flat the next day and the other one was also not great. Lost a lot of the fluid and then I decided to just put inner tubes back in...
i've done it several times, usually works fine. but my newest bike was a total mess...don't know why. i went back to tubes, then tried it again and it was fine. tubeless tires are great, though, give it another go sometime!
Great information!! There was a lot of things similar to how you do car and motorcycle tires but tweaked for bicycles! Love the extra tips and tricks and how you explain and show why the dry can be preferred. Keep up the good content!!!! And stay safe riding as well!!
Just had set fitted by dealer very please nothing wrong. But won't be afraid now on fitting next set .I used to fit my own tyres on my gsx 1000R motorcycle. Good instructions big thumbs up .
Thanks so much for the detailed instruction and explanation. I just installed my first tubeless with a regular standing pump and it worked first time thanks to you and this video.
Thank you for sharing your comment cuz I'm on tubeless tires at the moment and I only have my standard pumped work with them happy to know that I can still do it that way
Thank you SO SO much!! Just bought a conversion kit - but have been just sitting staring at my fatbike (...then the parts and bottles, then back to the bike) for about a week. Now I know how to approach this! You´re the best!
I just went through hell and back trying to convert my tires with a diy tubeless conversion. I finally got it to seal and work properly. I ended up using a normal compressor and shrader valve chuck directly on the open presta valve stem without a valve core in it. That finally got my tire seated. Once I got it seated it was still leaking a bit, but I just let the sealant do its work and would put a few more psi into the tire and shake it up. This process helped me a lot. Thanks for all the tips! Soapy water was a huge help in getting the tire seated. Just glad it worked.
Awesome tutorial. Did it for the firs time - dry method - and it worked pervectly. No leak, no mess, everithing as it should be. Tnx Doddy! Greetings from Slovenia.
An alternative to Gorilla Tape is Tesa Tape 4289 (on eBay) and feels very similar to a well known brand. Never had any issues with it and also comes in different widths.
4 роки тому
@@NZLKevin88 takes 4 and a half years to arrive though
never had to use it, but peace of mind. i also had a spurter (too big to seal right away) that i patched with gorilla tape and it was totally rideable.
Nice vid Doddy - thanks. I recently had a problem seating a 3" tyre on a 50mm rim. Airshot & Compressor both failed initially, even with the ever dependable soapy rim - wouldn't seat the floppy (Chupacabra) bead - not even close. Resolved by installing inner tube and inflating to 50psi to pop the bead on. Then broke one side to get inner tube out. Airshot then popped the bead back on the open side. If that failed, I would have (been prepared to) cut the inner tube and only break a small area of bead - just enough to get inner tube out/tubeless valve installed. Thankfully it didn't come to that. Cheers
NIce vid, if you only have CO2 you can inflate dry to seat the tyre, leave for a while then unseat a small section and pour the sealant in or inject, then pump back up with normal track pump.
I replaced both of my tubeless tires this week with slightly wider models. I quickly replaced my rear but was having a lot of trouble getting the front to seat. I looked up your video which was very helpful in reminding me to try CO2. Two cartridges later it was mostly seated, and I completed the job with an electric pump (set to 30psi max). For the reasons you pointed out, I added the Stan's later through the valve stem so it was not affected by the CO2. Thanks for that advice which allowed me to get the job finished and go biking today! And I should also thank you for your excellent video on stopping brakes from squealing. I got a new bike about a year ago and did not know about bedding in the brakes, so within a few weeks they were squealing badly. But I cleaned the pads and rotors following your advice and they have been silent ever since (except occasionally for a short period after going through water). Again - many thanks for this and all the other very helpful GMBN videos!
Over the weekend I had a puncture and realized that I hadn't had the wheels refilled with sealant for at least 8 months... so I had to install a tube there and then. Actually it was a friend's one, since the one I had strapped to my bike for months had burned, and when I inflated it, it ripped (another lesson learned). Back home, to bring all this back to standard, I normally would have taken the bike to the shop, but now, due to Covid, some of my favorite service shops are closed, and I have more time, and more propensity to save. So I just bought the right stuff and refilled the unaffected wheel through the valve, whithout dismounting it. After seeing how dry the sealant was in the affected wheel, I guessed I urgently needed to do that. For the punctured wheel, I did the tire patching like suggested, and completed the mounting with the "soapy water" and the filling with the "dry" methods. It worked liked a charm. Thanks! (Note: Removing the old, dry sealant with warm soapy water, like suggested, was really a hassle though. I'll try to find out other methods for when I have to clean the other wheel, but don't go that route unless you want to spend more than an hour scrubbing away.)
I use Oko offroad tyre sealant, it's not mtb specific but works perfectly well. It's a much thicker fluid than stans etc and doesn't make any mess. The best thing is it costs £9 for a 1250ml bottle, less than half the cost of Stans.
Doddy is the"Daddy" of mountain bike repair. He glides through the skills with ease, cleanliness and order. Always informative. The comments are a good supplement and proof that everyone is working with hypotheses, some of which work and some which don't. And in mtb no-one has the whole truth, but doddy gets it all right so much of the time.
I would like to thank you for that tutorial. Valve and Milk arrived at 1 pm, took me an hour. I made both my tyres tubeless easily. I dry fitted them first then added this liquid. Was scary at first with sealant leaking a bit. But i tested them a few kilometers. Bike feels different, it's nice ! Thank you again.
I had a fight fitting some new tubeless tyres to my wife's bike earlier tonight - the new Schwalbes I bought her are fractionally looser on the rims than the worn out Hutchisons I'm replacing. I got the back seated eventually but couldn't get enough air in the front to make it pop despite using a compressor. I'll be having another look at them tomorrow so I'll try adding a second layer of gorilla tape and see if that does the trick. Cheers for the hint.
There is also the dry and wet method mixed -seat the beads without sealant, break the bead on one side and tip in the sealant less mess than your wet method and only one bead to get back on with the pump....
Doddy, Are you all not using Mac-off sealant anymore? Great video and great information about fixing that tire with needle and thread and then the patch inside the tire Thank you
Great info, I’ve had to strip my tyres off as spokes are pinging and need tensioned, I will use the dry method, what about once the tyre is beaded and before I put in sealant I was thinking about placing the wheel in the sink with water to look for air escaping, I noticed you didn’t suggest this .
Schwalbe tires seem to only go on with an air compressor. I have the same mini air canister as the the one shown hear. Have only one gotten a tire to dry mount once with Schwalbe. Maybe a different brand like Continental or Specialized are easier to mount tubeless. Valve core removal is definitely required. Nice demo on this!
Good tip to do a dry fitting! As for all the new tire repair plugs, I don’t bother. I do like to repair new tires that got punctured and like your tips. Hopefully it work when the puncture is near the bead
Doddy, fuck, these are great videos, I think it is brilliant that you show how things wear and do need maintenance and cleaning in the future, sometimes setup videos only show what it is to work with new stuff, when actually most of the time people get bikes already setup tubeless but neglect how to maintain and renew the sealant, I did it the first time, and took it needlessly to the shop.. knowing this is saving some vital time of trivial maintenance to my local bike shop.
Facts. You can do tubeless with only TR tire (skinwall). Mine Maxxis Skin wall. My rim is Crossride non Tubeless ready. The valve? I cut it from Tube. You know what? My tire pressure is holding. No lie. I used it now for long rides but nothing happen. And when i got home. It still solid.
You can seat the beads with tubes first, break one side off and add the valve, add sealant, then inflate. Takes a couple of minutes longer but increases the chance of seating the beads significantly this way.
This is what sorted all of my problems today! Could I get the bead on? Could I fuck. But with tubes in? Worked a dream, still holding pressure so far without tubes...
Doddy and GMBN crew, Thanks for all that you guys do... a bang up job keeping us informed on all this how stuff! You’ll forgive a little constructive criticism. For all work being done with compressed air, one really should wear eye protection. For so many reasons. Keep up the good work guys! And thanks!
Bout the tire...i bought some relatively cheap performance schwalbe tires(liteskin which heavily deforms under 25psi in the corners. A Hans Dampf in the front and a Nobby Nic in the rear. Cut out some valvestems out of old punctered inner tubes because i was too impatient to order them. Rim is a non-tubeless ready 19c 27,5 from a 400€ "full suspension " bike. So i put on very thinwalled, non-tubeless 2.35in tires on a narrow non tubeless rim, one layer of tape and they popped up first time with the valvecore still insde with the wet method. Is that what you call luck? they loose about 2-3 psi every 2 days though. But i check tire pressure before EVERY ride anyways(im also a roadie)
Go through methodically, get the pop as it snaps on the rim front and back, set the final pressure install on the bike and do a short run...alls good. next day still at pressure, happy days. two days later and 50 miles later, left overnight the back tyre flat as a fart. no puncture, top up sealant (just incase) re- inflate alls good...for a couple of days...rinse and repeat. Finally find its the valve stem leaking, refit, repeat process....two weeks later my back wheel has gone back to inner tube whilst the front remains tubeless absolutely no probs. Be prepared for frustration and mess.
Hey. Thanks for the video. It really gave me a good idea in which direction to go starting out tubeless. But there is no question. Tubeless is the way to go. So many struggles avoided after taking out the tubes. I found a good method for keeping pressure after your done inflating and the tyre is seated is to rotate and bounce the wheel off the ground several times. Maybe for about 5 minutes. Personally I have had some excellent results doing this. Love the channel. Good motivation for myself.
Hey doddy, For particularly stubborn rim tyre combos I tend to tape the rim and then seat up both sides. I then take off one side of the tyre then add valves and sealant so only one side is left to seat up. Often I will also spray a bit of ptfe spray around the bead to help it slide into place as I have had instances of the rim tape being ripped off as the bead slides into the socket. Keep up the good work!! W
I've spent 4 fucking hours trying to get mine to seat, and still no success. Brand new continental der kaiser. I've tried soap, an old tube tightened round the outside, a compressor, a topeak pump that has the cannister. Still no luck, any suggestions?
Fun Fact: The original spelling is tyre, as it comes from the French for the nozzle that blows up the tyre with compressed air. Like many American spellings, at one time someone wrongly spelled the word as tire, and others who also couldn't spell copied it's and it stuck over there.
Great video! Conversion kits suck. If you want to go tubeless, just get a new set of tubeless rims and tires, or, if your bike is old enough and doesn't have neato stuff like tubeless, hydraulic disc brakes or a 1x setup up front, maybe consider a new bike?
my continental cross king is leaking air slowly, even after a month with peaty's sealant. My schwalbe rocket ron holds air perfectly. same pattern for the ruban and nobby nic. schwalbe seems to seal that much better than continental ...
Definitely remove the valve cores, Use an air compressor. Inflate and set the bead first with no sealant, add the sealant after setting the bead. There doesn’t seem to be an easier way, especially when the tires are super tight to get on.
You seem lazy but it depends where and how you ride. If you're plagued with slow punctures from thorns or don't want downhill weight tyres but do ride fast on rocks then tubeless is fantastic.
It's possible, but takes away much of the benefits of going tubeless. The sealant is really worth it and virtually eliminates all but the largest punctures.
Not directly to your question, but many tires have a minimum pressure anyway. Too low a pressure and you might get sidewall cracks. FYI, some rims have a maximum pressure, and it's possible that both ranges don't intersect (= incompatible).
If it's a proper tubeless-compatible rim there's a little bump that holds the tyre in place [that's what gives the "pop" when initially seating the tyre], so as long as you've got enough pressure to ride the bike you'll be ok [depending on how rowdy you get, of course].
oh yeah man... I had continentals, and they leaked all the time. Make sure your Continental Trail Kings are Tubeless ready. Their branding designation for tubeless is "2Bliss"
1). Do you have to replace the valve stem each time you make a tire tubeless? 2). Do you have to use the compressed air method for inflation? Or can you use a standard floor pump
you can still seat your tyre with a track pump. I made a video on how to prepare the tyre and rim. Besides making sure the contact points are as clean as possible. Good luck!
I remember setting up tubeless for the first time, as a newbie I've always thought that an air compressor is the most important thing to setup tubeless. So when I tried using just a normal floor pump and successfuly set up tubeless set up my rig, I was amazed 🤣.
Dude, I’ve got a massive man-crush on your workshop!
Doddy:
When pouring sealant directly into the tire:
After putting in tire, keep the wheel vertical, turn it slowly until the tire opening is at top.
Finish mounting last bit of bead.
Inflate and seat tire bead, before sloshing sealant around inside of tire.
This will minimize - eliminate sealant leaking out before bead is seated.
Cheers
Michigan, USA
Fantastic hack!
I actually thought we all did that🤔👍
This is the way I do it. Very easy, hardly any mess.
This is just the normal way of doing who would slosh sealant with a unseated bead? Makes no sense at all.
GMBN are the best MTB videos. I appreciate the information shared in the videos, it has been very helpful in my bike building.
This is one of the finest and most articulate videos I have seen whilst seeking knowledge on a particular subject. A+ Thank you for posting.
I was clueless about tubeless before I clicked on this. Fantastic video and I'm off to buy my first conversion set.
Excellent as always Doddy. Clear, complete ... best * *fistbump* *
Thanks as ever gmbn i only watch your vids now made this much easier :)
If you have trouble seating the tyre for the first time, USE A TUBE, inflate as normal and pop the bead into place. Once you have that done, crack only ONE side of the tyre back off the rim, remove the tube and secure your tubeless valve in place.
Having one side of the tyre already seated makes it significantly easier to seat the rest of the tyre again later, especially if you're not using a compressor.
Reseat the tyre without the tube or sealant just to make sure you can, then either crack the bead to pour your sealant in, or feed it through the valve stem.
Alex Paulsen thanks for the tip
This depends really on the the rim you have..
On some rims this works amazing but on other, mostly wide and shallow rims (like my Halo Vortex) the tire doesn’t get seated properly when having a tube in it.
This happens since the tube bulks up the tire to much for the shallow rim and then sits a bit above the rim, where it would sit in a tubeless setup.
So if you deflate the tire, after you inflated it with a tube, the tire still doesn’t sit properly.
Great ! after two hours of search, it's the best answer. Thanks a lot :-) !
I just got my first tubeless setup, thanks for guide through it worked perfectly. Got a little messy putting the valve cores back in, mopped up the living room floor and it's back to normal. Glad I don't have carpet 🙂
Really informative video! I wasted around 50 Bucks on a conversion kit and after almost 5 hours of getting the things sealed up, one of the tires was flat the next day and the other one was also not great. Lost a lot of the fluid and then I decided to just put inner tubes back in...
i've done it several times, usually works fine. but my newest bike was a total mess...don't know why. i went back to tubes, then tried it again and it was fine. tubeless tires are great, though, give it another go sometime!
Great information!! There was a lot of things similar to how you do car and motorcycle tires but tweaked for bicycles! Love the extra tips and tricks and how you explain and show why the dry can be preferred. Keep up the good content!!!! And stay safe riding as well!!
Just had set fitted by dealer very please nothing wrong. But won't be afraid now on fitting next set .I used to fit my own tyres on my gsx 1000R motorcycle. Good instructions big thumbs up .
Thanks so much for the detailed instruction and explanation. I just installed my first tubeless with a regular standing pump and it worked first time thanks to you and this video.
Thank you for sharing your comment cuz I'm on tubeless tires at the moment and I only have my standard pumped work with them happy to know that I can still do it that way
Newly converted! Thanks Doddy! I do have the valves and logos lined up though...
My man said, "ghetto"...🤣😂👍🏼
And choobless
5:15 “you don’t want that stuff floating around clogging stuff up.” Hmmm, I kinda thought that was the point.
No - he said he was referring to the old sealant. You don't want old sealant in there together with the new stuff.
Thank you SO SO much!! Just bought a conversion kit - but have been just sitting staring at my fatbike (...then the parts and bottles, then back to the bike) for about a week. Now I know how to approach this! You´re the best!
I know how to approach this too, keep it like it is and go ride. Patch kit/pump/spare tube/sealant like Slime, how easy is that.
I just went through hell and back trying to convert my tires with a diy tubeless conversion. I finally got it to seal and work properly. I ended up using a normal compressor and shrader valve chuck directly on the open presta valve stem without a valve core in it. That finally got my tire seated. Once I got it seated it was still leaking a bit, but I just let the sealant do its work and would put a few more psi into the tire and shake it up. This process helped me a lot. Thanks for all the tips! Soapy water was a huge help in getting the tire seated. Just glad it worked.
Awesome tutorial. Did it for the firs time - dry method - and it worked pervectly. No leak, no mess, everithing as it should be. Tnx Doddy! Greetings from Slovenia.
Thanks brother cheers, about to mount my first tire today after watching this , I’ll be going with the dry method!! 😎🤙🏽🏁🤩
An alternative to Gorilla Tape is Tesa Tape 4289 (on eBay) and feels very similar to a well known brand. Never had any issues with it and also comes in different widths.
@@NZLKevin88 takes 4 and a half years to arrive though
Once I figure out which rims I can use, I will for sure try the wet method..Great Video!!
Love the pragmatic recommendation @15:19. Excellent content, thank you.
never had to use it, but peace of mind. i also had a spurter (too big to seal right away) that i patched with gorilla tape and it was totally rideable.
It was cool seeing that tires can be repaired
Wow, one of the best tubeless videos i have seen since a week. Tools, methods, usefull informations. 👍
Nice vid Doddy - thanks. I recently had a problem seating a 3" tyre on a 50mm rim. Airshot & Compressor both failed initially, even with the ever dependable soapy rim - wouldn't seat the floppy (Chupacabra) bead - not even close. Resolved by installing inner tube and inflating to 50psi to pop the bead on. Then broke one side to get inner tube out. Airshot then popped the bead back on the open side. If that failed, I would have (been prepared to) cut the inner tube and only break a small area of bead - just enough to get inner tube out/tubeless valve installed. Thankfully it didn't come to that. Cheers
Wow amazing! Thank you very much for those information.
Hello GMBN! Plz make some video Tubeless Tyres vs. tube tyres. thx 4 all your vids ! ;)
Thanks Doddy, Couldn't be better.
Great advice my tubeless conversation was super easy. Thanks for posting.
Hey Ian Papworth, happy it helped!
NIce vid, if you only have CO2 you can inflate dry to seat the tyre, leave for a while then unseat a small section and pour the sealant in or inject, then pump back up with normal track pump.
Awesome. Very thorough explanation!
I replaced both of my tubeless tires this week with slightly wider models. I quickly replaced my rear but was having a lot of trouble getting the front to seat. I looked up your video which was very helpful in reminding me to try CO2. Two cartridges later it was mostly seated, and I completed the job with an electric pump (set to 30psi max). For the reasons you pointed out, I added the Stan's later through the valve stem so it was not affected by the CO2. Thanks for that advice which allowed me to get the job finished and go biking today! And I should also thank you for your excellent video on stopping brakes from squealing. I got a new bike about a year ago and did not know about bedding in the brakes, so within a few weeks they were squealing badly. But I cleaned the pads and rotors following your advice and they have been silent ever since (except occasionally for a short period after going through water). Again - many thanks for this and all the other very helpful GMBN videos!
Over the weekend I had a puncture and realized that I hadn't had the wheels refilled with sealant for at least 8 months... so I had to install a tube there and then. Actually it was a friend's one, since the one I had strapped to my bike for months had burned, and when I inflated it, it ripped (another lesson learned).
Back home, to bring all this back to standard, I normally would have taken the bike to the shop, but now, due to Covid, some of my favorite service shops are closed, and I have more time, and more propensity to save.
So I just bought the right stuff and refilled the unaffected wheel through the valve, whithout dismounting it. After seeing how dry the sealant was in the affected wheel, I guessed I urgently needed to do that.
For the punctured wheel, I did the tire patching like suggested, and completed the mounting with the "soapy water" and the filling with the "dry" methods. It worked liked a charm. Thanks!
(Note: Removing the old, dry sealant with warm soapy water, like suggested, was really a hassle though. I'll try to find out other methods for when I have to clean the other wheel, but don't go that route unless you want to spend more than an hour scrubbing away.)
I use Oko offroad tyre sealant, it's not mtb specific but works perfectly well. It's a much thicker fluid than stans etc and doesn't make any mess. The best thing is it costs £9 for a 1250ml bottle, less than half the cost of Stans.
Market it for a bicycle and give it a nice smell, and you can sell smaller portions of it for horrendously inflated prices.
Hi Doddy, great video AGAIN. How long will the sealant last before it dries up and you'll have to replace it?
Very comprehensive video.
Doddy is the"Daddy" of mountain bike repair. He glides through the skills with ease, cleanliness and order. Always informative. The comments are a good supplement and proof that everyone is working with hypotheses, some of which work and some which don't. And in mtb no-one has the whole truth, but doddy gets it all right so much of the time.
Tubeless kit arriving tomorrow let's try dis !
I would like to thank you for that tutorial.
Valve and Milk arrived at 1 pm, took me an hour.
I made both my tyres tubeless easily.
I dry fitted them first then added this liquid.
Was scary at first with sealant leaking a bit.
But i tested them a few kilometers.
Bike feels different, it's nice !
Thank you again.
You are an absolute wealth of information, mate. Thank you. Sub'd 😎
thank you for this very interesting video
Thx for the vdo. The sealant "Stan's Race" they say "Must be poured directly into tire" any experience about, to put it with a syringe
I learned something new. Thanks!
The best video ever! Covers all aspects and tricks. Good job Doddy!
I had a fight fitting some new tubeless tyres to my wife's bike earlier tonight - the new Schwalbes I bought her are fractionally looser on the rims than the worn out Hutchisons I'm replacing. I got the back seated eventually but couldn't get enough air in the front to make it pop despite using a compressor. I'll be having another look at them tomorrow so I'll try adding a second layer of gorilla tape and see if that does the trick. Cheers for the hint.
There is also the dry and wet method mixed -seat the beads without sealant, break the bead on one side and tip in the sealant less mess than your wet method and only one bead to get back on with the pump....
Doddy,
Are you all not using Mac-off sealant anymore? Great video and great information about fixing that tire with needle and thread and then the patch inside the tire
Thank you
Great video I got a lot out of this, I am old school MTB are not what they use to be.
I use specialized tyres I love them! Always go up first time and seem fairly affordable as well. Anyone else?
Great info, I’ve had to strip my tyres off as spokes are pinging and need tensioned, I will use the dry method, what about once the tyre is beaded and before I put in sealant I was thinking about placing the wheel in the sink with water to look for air escaping, I noticed you didn’t suggest this .
Solid explainer video guys, thanks
Schwalbe tires seem to only go on with an air compressor. I have the same mini air canister as the the one shown hear. Have only one gotten a tire to dry mount once with Schwalbe. Maybe a different brand like Continental or Specialized are easier to mount tubeless. Valve core removal is definitely required. Nice demo on this!
Hey their Doddy and the team great video very informative
Thanks. Very helpful. ✅👍
Great hacks.
Good tip to do a dry fitting! As for all the new tire repair plugs, I don’t bother. I do like to repair new tires that got punctured and like your tips. Hopefully it work when the puncture is near the bead
Thanks, excellent video
What if you used tubeless gunk and a inner tube? would that be considered the ultimate super great awesome tire?
Heyyy inner tube with sealant works for me
Why do you need tp brush water onto the tire sides?
Another great video. Doddy, if you're still following this, can you re-use the tubeless valve if you have to temporarily fit a tube?
Really well layed out video! I found it very useful thanks Doddy :)
Thanks Doddy
Doddy, fuck, these are great videos, I think it is brilliant that you show how things wear and do need maintenance and cleaning in the future, sometimes setup videos only show what it is to work with new stuff, when actually most of the time people get bikes already setup tubeless but neglect how to maintain and renew the sealant, I did it the first time, and took it needlessly to the shop..
knowing this is saving some vital time of trivial maintenance to my local bike shop.
Today I decided to end the frustration trying to seal a tubeless tire, and installed tubes; much easier to fix on the trail.
Great video.
Facts. You can do tubeless with only TR tire (skinwall). Mine Maxxis Skin wall. My rim is Crossride non Tubeless ready. The valve? I cut it from Tube. You know what? My tire pressure is holding. No lie. I used it now for long rides but nothing happen. And when i got home. It still solid.
You can seat the beads with tubes first, break one side off and add the valve, add sealant, then inflate. Takes a couple of minutes longer but increases the chance of seating the beads significantly this way.
I wish I'd read this yesterday before embarking on my own voyage of discovery and ending up at the same place!!
This is what sorted all of my problems today! Could I get the bead on? Could I fuck. But with tubes in? Worked a dream, still holding pressure so far without tubes...
You gave me hope!!!!
Hi from Australia !
I love you doddy
Thanks for the great videos
Did you miss installing the valve, minus the valve core, before seating the tire in the dry fit?
Doddy and GMBN crew, Thanks for all that you guys do... a bang up job keeping us informed on all this how stuff!
You’ll forgive a little constructive criticism. For all work being done with compressed air, one really should wear eye protection. For so many reasons.
Keep up the good work guys! And thanks!
Bout the tire...i bought some relatively cheap performance schwalbe tires(liteskin which heavily deforms under 25psi in the corners. A Hans Dampf in the front and a Nobby Nic in the rear. Cut out some valvestems out of old punctered inner tubes because i was too impatient to order them. Rim is a non-tubeless ready 19c 27,5 from a 400€ "full suspension " bike. So i put on very thinwalled, non-tubeless 2.35in tires on a narrow non tubeless rim, one layer of tape and they popped up first time with the valvecore still insde with the wet method.
Is that what you call luck? they loose about 2-3 psi every 2 days though. But i check tire pressure before EVERY ride anyways(im also a roadie)
Go through methodically, get the pop as it snaps on the rim front and back, set the final pressure install on the bike and do a short run...alls good. next day still at pressure, happy days. two days later and 50 miles later, left overnight the back tyre flat as a fart. no puncture, top up sealant (just incase) re- inflate alls good...for a couple of days...rinse and repeat. Finally find its the valve stem leaking, refit, repeat process....two weeks later my back wheel has gone back to inner tube whilst the front remains tubeless absolutely no probs. Be prepared for frustration and mess.
Hey. Thanks for the video.
It really gave me a good idea in which direction to go starting out tubeless. But there is no question. Tubeless is the way to go. So many struggles avoided after taking out the tubes. I found a good method for keeping pressure after your done inflating and the tyre is seated is to rotate and bounce the wheel off the ground several times. Maybe for about 5 minutes. Personally I have had some excellent results doing this.
Love the channel. Good motivation for myself.
Hey! Another tubeless video!
Hey doddy,
For particularly stubborn rim tyre combos I tend to tape the rim and then seat up both sides. I then take off one side of the tyre then add valves and sealant so only one side is left to seat up.
Often I will also spray a bit of ptfe spray around the bead to help it slide into place as I have had instances of the rim tape being ripped off as the bead slides into the socket.
Keep up the good work!!
W
For all of us in America, "bunging up" translates to "clogging up!"
Thanks...I was actually wondering
Bunged up, happens when you have a cold
@@gympump8702 We call that congested in the US lol
@@Acaidia yes nasal congestion would be proper English.
The new Continental tyres are amazing, seated first time with a £10 ac car air compressor :)
I've spent 4 fucking hours trying to get mine to seat, and still no success. Brand new continental der kaiser. I've tried soap, an old tube tightened round the outside, a compressor, a topeak pump that has the cannister. Still no luck, any suggestions?
Fun Fact:
The original spelling is tyre, as it comes from the French for the nozzle that blows up the tyre with compressed air. Like many American spellings, at one time someone wrongly spelled the word as tire, and others who also couldn't spell copied it's and it stuck over there.
That stuff reminds me of moisture sealant for bathrooms.
Great video!
Conversion kits suck.
If you want to go tubeless, just get a new set of tubeless rims and tires, or, if your bike is old enough and doesn't have neato stuff like tubeless, hydraulic disc brakes or a 1x setup up front, maybe consider a new bike?
Great idea to turn a 20€ expense to a 2000€ one!
my continental cross king is leaking air slowly, even after a month with peaty's sealant. My schwalbe rocket ron holds air perfectly. same pattern for the ruban and nobby nic. schwalbe seems to seal that much better than continental ...
Definitely remove the valve cores, Use an air compressor. Inflate and set the bead first with no sealant, add the sealant after setting the bead. There doesn’t seem to be an easier way, especially when the tires are super tight to get on.
Great video Doddy very informative.
I'll have to check if my DT Swiss rims on my 2008 Stumpjumper Fsr Pro are tubeless rims
JUST GOT A SHWALLBE AIR BOOSTER TOP STUFF !
Nice work
I got a tubeless kit and the tape that they gave me was pretty much office tape :P
Good vid as usual but tubeless seems a right hassle
You seem lazy but it depends where and how you ride. If you're plagued with slow punctures from thorns or don't want downhill weight tyres but do ride fast on rocks then tubeless is fantastic.
Great info, thanks!
For emergencies, you can mix orange and Stan's, been good for 2 months now. Orange is good, but it clogs your cores.
Is it possible to run tubeless without tubeless sealant. So like dry fitting but never putting in the sealant?
It's possible, but takes away much of the benefits of going tubeless. The sealant is really worth it and virtually eliminates all but the largest punctures.
Hi I liked your video . Is there a min pressure for tubeless tires to retain a seal?
Not directly to your question, but many tires have a minimum pressure anyway. Too low a pressure and you might get sidewall cracks. FYI, some rims have a maximum pressure, and it's possible that both ranges don't intersect (= incompatible).
If it's a proper tubeless-compatible rim there's a little bump that holds the tyre in place [that's what gives the "pop" when initially seating the tyre], so as long as you've got enough pressure to ride the bike you'll be ok [depending on how rowdy you get, of course].
What was the tyre sealant called, that never dries out? Was it stans?
I am having hard time setting Continental Trail Kings to tubeless. They are way flexible and hard to seal the air in.
oh yeah man... I had continentals, and they leaked all the time. Make sure your Continental Trail Kings are Tubeless ready. Their branding designation for tubeless is "2Bliss"
1). Do you have to replace the valve stem each time you make a tire tubeless?
2). Do you have to use the compressed air method for inflation? Or can you use a standard floor pump
I like green slime, cheaper and works all the same. I like adding through the valve stem as well.
Thank you for your useful video Rammstein :)
I needed to watch this video before installing my Muc-Off tubeless kit. I don't have a proper pump to inflate them.
Presta valve is annoying as he'll shrader is more industrial looj
@@jonathanoxlade4252 The valve is not the problem, but the instant volume needed to set the tires.
Coke bottle or spray bottle.
you can still seat your tyre with a track pump. I made a video on how to prepare the tyre and rim. Besides making sure the contact points are as clean as possible. Good luck!
I remember setting up tubeless for the first time, as a newbie I've always thought that an air compressor is the most important thing to setup tubeless. So when I tried using just a normal floor pump and successfuly set up tubeless set up my rig, I was amazed 🤣.