Just for reference, you need a 10mm socket with extension for the bolts and a pair of pliers or channel locks for the hose clamps. That way, people can have the tools ready ahead of time.
I changed my thermostat on my 2005 350z and it is not working, the thermostat does not open and the fans turn on and do not turn off because the water does not circulate Is it because I should purge it better or is it for another reason? What is the correct way to get all the air out? thank you
Sounds like you still have air in the system, it takes a few tries but I just drove a while then let it cool down and fill from the port on the heater hose. Repeat as needed
There is a small port on the passenger side heater hose near the firewall. I filled the car from there with a funnel and let it idle for a while. Then I would top it off from there every couple days.
After it’s cooled down. Definitely do not open that port when it’s still hot. I filled it from there because that port is higher than the radiator cap so that’s where an air pocket will form if you fill from the radiator. You can also lift the front of the car so the radiator cap is the highest point but I found it easier to just top off from the heater hose.
Would you by any chance know why the car over heats when accelerating and then the temperature drops down when it’s on idle? I already replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump, few hoses and radiator cap
That basically means the system can’t get rid of the heat you are generating quick enough so I would look at coolant capacity, air flow restrictions or coolant blockages. For examples some auto parts store radiators are only 1 row when oem is 2 row minimum this limits your coolant capacity/heat capacity. The simplest thing it could be is your cooling fans though, if they are not flowing enough cfm this will drastically limit the systems ability to transfer heat.
Honestly it took me like 2 weeks to get all the air out. I just kept driving it like normal and checking the bleeder port after it cooled down. I just kept topping it off until all the air was out.
I thought it was junk at first too but it was just a real pain to bleed the air out. Now it works fine. I still dont trust it as much as the oem one though.
That is a common issue, but in this case the fans are how I first noticed there was a problem. I would take a short drive and when I parked the fans were both on full blast so i knew they were working fine, it was just the thermostat not letting the coolant flow.
Don’t know if you’ll ever see this, but I overclocking PCs and building custom water cooling loops for PCs is a hobby of mine. DONT run copper in your system. Galvanic corrosion is no joke and no amount of inhibitors will stop it long term. Hope you got an OEM after this. You could RUIN a looot.
PCs don't usually run "coolant" though right? isn't it usually water? (Not super familiar) i think in a car the coolant is meant to inhibit galvanic corrosion but now I'm curious how well it does if at all.
@@Garage23 High end show builds will typically run a coolant. It’s well.. mostly for show. It almost always has a tendency to clog water blocks and pumps so it’s ran temporarily. The thermal capacity difference for PC coolant and deionized water is minimal. If it’s for work, 99%of the time it’s water. For competitions LN2 (liquid nitrogen) is poured constantly into a pot to cool CPU or GPU. Many cheap parts come with aluminum or Nickle plated parts. Copper, aluminum, and brass don’t mix very nicely. The reason being they have vastly different electrochemical potentials, so when they come into contact with one another (through fluid) they start ripping ions away from one another, creating the galvanic corrosion. It’s not unheard of people using antifreeze in a loop to help mitigate the effect but no matter what, the pH of the coolant will degrade, and so will the mixed metals. I’ve installed numerous water blocks for people after they got destroyed because of this. Now with this being said, I imagine there will be mixed metals regardless in a car, so maybe engines can withstand this effect more but from my experience with PCs, I wouldn’t do it with anything cooled.
Just for reference, you need a 10mm socket with extension for the bolts and a pair of pliers or channel locks for the hose clamps. That way, people can have the tools ready ahead of time.
Thanks for going through the troubleshooting process on this, this helps out a lot. Glad to see it back on the road!
THANKS! Glad we made it and got to see you on the electric skate 😆
Anyone else get excited when they get notified that Garage 23 uploaded a new video??
Thanks for doing the thing 😉👆🏻🔔
@@Garage23 It is a must to support those that support you 🤙🏽
Those wheels are dope!
Thank you sir. 🙏
I changed my thermostat on my 2005 350z and it is not working, the thermostat does not open and the fans turn on and do not turn off because the water does not circulate Is it because I should purge it better or is it for another reason? What is the correct way to get all the air out? thank you
Sounds like you still have air in the system, it takes a few tries but I just drove a while then let it cool down and fill from the port on the heater hose. Repeat as needed
how did you bleed the air out of the car?
There is a small port on the passenger side heater hose near the firewall. I filled the car from there with a funnel and let it idle for a while. Then I would top it off from there every couple days.
@@Garage23 You filled it there? Why not where the cooler is? And did you do that after it cooled of? In Idle?
After it’s cooled down. Definitely do not open that port when it’s still hot. I filled it from there because that port is higher than the radiator cap so that’s where an air pocket will form if you fill from the radiator. You can also lift the front of the car so the radiator cap is the highest point but I found it easier to just top off from the heater hose.
Would you by any chance know why the car over heats when accelerating and then the temperature drops down when it’s on idle? I already replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump, few hoses and radiator cap
That basically means the system can’t get rid of the heat you are generating quick enough so I would look at coolant capacity, air flow restrictions or coolant blockages. For examples some auto parts store radiators are only 1 row when oem is 2 row minimum this limits your coolant capacity/heat capacity. The simplest thing it could be is your cooling fans though, if they are not flowing enough cfm this will drastically limit the systems ability to transfer heat.
Do you know if the oem metal gasket also sticks to the thermostat
It does not, the OEM one is a metal gasket but you can "glue" it on with a dab of RTV silicone to make install easier.
@@Garage23 thanks alot
So is it okay to use a cheap AutoZone thermostat rather than a OEM one? Does it maintain like a regular one?
Yeah it's been fine till current day, the bigger issue is the car is a pain in the ass to bleed the air out of but once it's clear its totally fine.
@@Garage23how did you bleed the air out?
I just but a new thermostat in and been bleeding it for the past 2 days but it keeps overheating my car super fast. Any ideas?
Honestly it took me like 2 weeks to get all the air out. I just kept driving it like normal and checking the bleeder port after it cooled down. I just kept topping it off until all the air was out.
Water bump, or the vents doesn’t work
How's new motorad one? Had one it was junk putting new one on now also have old nissan one might try
I thought it was junk at first too but it was just a real pain to bleed the air out. Now it works fine. I still dont trust it as much as the oem one though.
Could it be a fan issue too?
That is a common issue, but in this case the fans are how I first noticed there was a problem. I would take a short drive and when I parked the fans were both on full blast so i knew they were working fine, it was just the thermostat not letting the coolant flow.
did you re use the coolant that was drained?
Yeah it was new coolant from the radiator install we had just done so we reused it.
Don’t know if you’ll ever see this, but I overclocking PCs and building custom water cooling loops for PCs is a hobby of mine. DONT run copper in your system. Galvanic corrosion is no joke and no amount of inhibitors will stop it long term. Hope you got an OEM after this. You could RUIN a looot.
PCs don't usually run "coolant" though right? isn't it usually water? (Not super familiar) i think in a car the coolant is meant to inhibit galvanic corrosion but now I'm curious how well it does if at all.
@@Garage23 High end show builds will typically run a coolant. It’s well.. mostly for show. It almost always has a tendency to clog water blocks and pumps so it’s ran temporarily. The thermal capacity difference for PC coolant and deionized water is minimal. If it’s for work, 99%of the time it’s water. For competitions LN2 (liquid nitrogen) is poured constantly into a pot to cool CPU or GPU.
Many cheap parts come with aluminum or Nickle plated parts. Copper, aluminum, and brass don’t mix very nicely. The reason being they have vastly different electrochemical potentials, so when they come into contact with one another (through fluid) they start ripping ions away from one another, creating the galvanic corrosion.
It’s not unheard of people using antifreeze in a loop to help mitigate the effect but no matter what, the pH of the coolant will degrade, and so will the mixed metals. I’ve installed numerous water blocks for people after they got destroyed because of this. Now with this being said, I imagine there will be mixed metals regardless in a car, so maybe engines can withstand this effect more but from my experience with PCs, I wouldn’t do it with anything cooled.