Thank you so much for all the information in this video and all the links. Being a noob to this subject myself, I'd been avidly reading up and watching videos too all day. But having the links to the melting pot, gloves and ladle/coffee spoon with demo in particular has been just brilliant. Thank you!
First thing to say is safety! Never allow moisture/liquid anywhere near your melt pot, the result is explosive. Because your tardis is a solid block you will have quite a bit of shrinkage and sinks, to avoid this simply push a square of silicone into the centre of the mould so your casting will finish hollow and the best bit is you will only use a fraction of that expensive pewter! Daryle
When I was a kid I used an even cheaper method. I squashed my plastic soldier into wet clay and made a two part mold, locating the two parts using cocktail sticks. I then melted some lead from an old car battery in a cooking pot on the gas stove and poured it in. You had to keep your distance because it spat a bit because the clay was still wet. Made great models though. I've since learned battery lead is very toxic so I wouldn't recommend it but the method worked really well..
What a cool little tool, I have been metal casting on a somewhat larger scale for some time now, soon I will get me my first 3D printer and start doing small figures like that, maybe I'll get one of those for the small stuff. You do some cool stuff, I subscribed 👍👍👍
Most kitchen fittings and door handles are made of a very hard aluminum alloy with a 200c approx melting point so if you want high definition its worth giving that a go instead of pewter or lead.
Thanks. I’ve seen some 100mm pots are quoted as going as high as 550c by some vendors. That should certainly be enough to melt Zinc. I’m not sure how it will react to the steel used in the pot though.
dwrplastics do a High Temperature Resistant Moulding Rubber 250g kit for £8.00 and 500g kit for around £12 - Ive ordered some and will give it a try :)
I made a few molds with this stuff above it did the job BUT when mixing you have to take care not to get too much air otherwise its bubble city! First mold was not good second mold I left the pots in HOT water to soften both parts up before starting - this stuff is VERY thick but does the job
Tinkerneering How do you empty the solder pot when finished.I have one myself and have melted some model metal in it.However if I wanted to change this to a different metal how do I empty the solder pot safely without losing any already melted metal?
The easiest way to do that is to wait for the metal to cool. The colder metal will shrink and you’re left with a large flat ingot that you can just tip out.
I did however the metal ingot didnt shrink enough and was stuck inside the pot.I will try again however.Would it be ok to pry it out with something or would it damage the solder pot?
If you know how deep the amount of metal is, you could try a couple of turns on a screw to give you a handle to pull on. Don’t go too deep or you’ll puncture the bottom. Prying might be possible, but it pays to take care and not bend the bowl.
Yep, the dross definitely needs to be gotten rid of. I recommend an old metal teaspoon. Pull it to one side, skimming the top to reveal the good stuff underneath. You can then pull the dross up the side and scoop it out of the pot. It can then be thrown away, as it’s of no use to anyone.
The Solder pot, im guessing your in the UK (accent and pound sign), did you have to change anything to the plug example earthing or anything - i've heard they are not safe for UK
Yep. I’m in the UK. The solder pot I’m using has and Australian type I connector on it. That has includes an earth/ground pin. All that being said, I ever leave the melting pot on for extended periods or unattended. Unlike its original purpose, I don’t need melted solder to be available for hours at a time, I’m just melting a small amount of pewter for casting. Hope this helps.
@@Tinkerneering Cheers for the reply - I actually found one on amazon with a UK plug fitted was a little more expensive but id rather that then loose my hand in a poof of smoke lol Thanks for this video too I was looking at a £90 melter until I watched this so thanks for saving me a load of cash :)
hey, is this scrap pewter you used definitely 100% lead free? I want to use some to make jewellery but not sure if 'lead free' means 100% lead free... thanks!
The Pewter Grains I bought were sold as Lead Free. Reading up, this may contain some naturally occurring lead (up to 0.05%}. I think you need to look for specific pewter if you’re making items to be worn against the skin. I’ve not looked into this myself though.
Thank you so much for all the information in this video and all the links. Being a noob to this subject myself, I'd been avidly reading up and watching videos too all day. But having the links to the melting pot, gloves and ladle/coffee spoon with demo in particular has been just brilliant. Thank you!
First thing to say is safety! Never allow moisture/liquid anywhere near your melt pot, the result is explosive.
Because your tardis is a solid block you will have quite a bit of shrinkage and sinks, to avoid this simply push a square of silicone into the centre of the mould so your casting will finish hollow and the best bit is you will only use a fraction of that expensive pewter!
Daryle
i love the ladle tip, I will make one, so obvious but I didn't think of this
When I was a kid I used an even cheaper method. I squashed my plastic soldier into wet clay and made a two part mold, locating the two parts using cocktail sticks. I then melted some lead from an old car battery in a cooking pot on the gas stove and poured it in. You had to keep your distance because it spat a bit because the clay was still wet. Made great models though. I've since learned battery lead is very toxic so I wouldn't recommend it but the method worked really well..
What a cool little tool, I have been metal casting on a somewhat larger scale for some time now, soon I will get me my first 3D printer and start doing small figures like that, maybe I'll get one of those for the small stuff. You do some cool stuff, I subscribed 👍👍👍
Thanks Ralph. 👍
Most kitchen fittings and door handles are made of a very hard aluminum alloy with a 200c approx melting point so if you want high definition its worth giving that a go instead of pewter or lead.
Aluminum melts at a much higher temperature than pewter
Try heating up the mold I do castings myself founded by heating up the mold and using baby powder and you’ll get great results
Ideal!! Exactly what I was looking for. TFS!!
May I ask you?How you melt left over on the spoon.?.Thank you
Thanks....great little video, going to check out moulds etc
0:40 - So simple, yet so very clever.
Awesome video! Do you think the larger 100mm pots will melt zinc? I've seen them listed to go up to 480c
Thanks. I’ve seen some 100mm pots are quoted as going as high as 550c by some vendors. That should certainly be enough to melt Zinc. I’m not sure how it will react to the steel used in the pot though.
TARDIS 😂 I’m subbing
You could try lost PLA or lost wax. Use plaster as the initial coat around the wax
dwrplastics do a High Temperature Resistant Moulding Rubber 250g kit for £8.00 and 500g kit for around £12 - Ive ordered some and will give it a try :)
I made a few molds with this stuff above it did the job BUT when mixing you have to take care not to get too much air otherwise its bubble city! First mold was not good second mold I left the pots in HOT water to soften both parts up before starting - this stuff is VERY thick but does the job
Thanks so much, brilliant, just what I needed!
Love the demo ....where did you get the pewter grains may I ask 🤔🤔
Thanks for your nice words. I bought mine from eBay.
Something like this, but larger size are available. ebay.to/3e5qtbj (affiliate link)
Good video mate, nice one.
Can you melt silver or gold too?
No, it only goes up to 450C, the MP of gold is 1064C and silver 962C.
Tinkerneering How do you empty the solder pot when finished.I have one myself and have melted some model metal in it.However if I wanted to change this to a different metal how do I empty the solder pot safely without losing any already melted metal?
The easiest way to do that is to wait for the metal to cool. The colder metal will shrink and you’re left with a large flat ingot that you can just tip out.
I did however the metal ingot didnt shrink enough and was stuck inside the pot.I will try again however.Would it be ok to pry it out with something or would it damage the solder pot?
If you know how deep the amount of metal is, you could try a couple of turns on a screw to give you a handle to pull on. Don’t go too deep or you’ll puncture the bottom.
Prying might be possible, but it pays to take care and not bend the bowl.
Thats a very good Idea.I never would have thought of that.Thank you 🙂Do you have any more vidz on metal casting or was it just a once off?
You could try this one.
Casting valentine love hearts with laser cut moulds //how-to
Do you need to rid of the dross before pouring? And how?
Yep, the dross definitely needs to be gotten rid of. I recommend an old metal teaspoon. Pull it to one side, skimming the top to reveal the good stuff underneath. You can then pull the dross up the side and scoop it out of the pot. It can then be thrown away, as it’s of no use to anyone.
@@Tinkerneering Thanks for your prompt and informative response!
nice job, thanks for the tips
good video
Very nice, thank you
The Solder pot, im guessing your in the UK (accent and pound sign), did you have to change anything to the plug example earthing or anything - i've heard they are not safe for UK
Yep. I’m in the UK.
The solder pot I’m using has and Australian type I connector on it. That has includes an earth/ground pin.
All that being said, I ever leave the melting pot on for extended periods or unattended. Unlike its original purpose, I don’t need melted solder to be available for hours at a time, I’m just melting a small amount of pewter for casting. Hope this helps.
@@Tinkerneering Cheers for the reply - I actually found one on amazon with a UK plug fitted was a little more expensive but id rather that then loose my hand in a poof of smoke lol Thanks for this video too I was looking at a £90 melter until I watched this so thanks for saving me a load of cash :)
Very interesting video! I can see it's application in jewelry making. Definitely looking forward to trying this myself :)
BORG3D Thanks Kurt. This equipment really makes things easy. I look forward to seeing what you do.
Can you melt tin can or alluminium
Unfortunately you need to get up to a much higher temperature to melt cans or aluminium. This works for pewter because it has a low melting point.
Preheat the mold, the hotter the better.
Great! Thanks for posting! Sas
nice
Interesting wee video.
hey, is this scrap pewter you used definitely 100% lead free? I want to use some to make jewellery but not sure if 'lead free' means 100% lead free... thanks!
The Pewter Grains I bought were sold as Lead Free. Reading up, this may contain some naturally occurring lead (up to 0.05%}.
I think you need to look for specific pewter if you’re making items to be worn against the skin. I’ve not looked into this myself though.
There's no fuse in that plug. Not very safe and not up to standard. Good vid!
What Could I do to make it safer?
@@FoxFamily4Life Just cut the fixed plug off and fit a normal 13amp plug but put in a 3amp fuse.
😊😊😊
Bloody hell you look like a mate of mine from Wigan. If your name’s Neil, PM me!
Not me, sorry. I just have one of those faces.
It's "Tardii" surely? 😉
try using wood
Done! 👍😉
noice