I usually just heat them on 400 for about 20 minutes, just enough to make sure the mold is heated all the way through. I heat the mold halves together, that way the heat inside the mold is retained long enough to start pouring.
I remember a long time ago I was always without the right returnable coin to release a shopping trolly so I cast one out of pewter using plasticine for a mold, the fine detail was terrible but it actually worked, I used it for years.
Another great video! Just FYI, a friend who owns a company dealing in industrial heating and heat monitoring equipment, told me that type of thermometer will give you inaccurate readings from reflective surfaces, like shiny pots or molten mettle.
David Bond A quick blast of high-temp engine paint on the side of the pot would at least give you a way to get an accurate reading of the pot’s temperature.
You can purchase Graphite powder, in large & inexpensive quantities, at your local art or craft stores. You can also find it in most hardware stores, too. Although, the quantities they carry are usually very small and costly. Graphite is rather unusual. It can be used for a large number of uses. Aside from being used as a "dry lubricant" and for making illustrations, it can also be used as a dry pigment in a variety of materials, (mostly, for a wide range of grey-tones), and, a mould release for casting metals. Also, it can be used for aging/weathering props & costumes, creating a surprisingly realistic "dark chrome" or gunmetal-look. And, a little of it goes an incredibly long way. One word of caution, though. Use it sparingly, because it can get extremely messy if you are not very careful, (this is especially true, when our feline Overlords closely inspect project progress..., 'LOTS of little black pawprints, EVERYWHERE..., don't ask me how I know this first hand).
thank you for showing the mistakes! a lot of people forget about that when making a tutorial that you can't do trial and error off screen and have it be perfect when you put it on because when others try it and inevitably fail the first time, now they can see why
I've worked with pewter several times and I knew that the melting point was low but WOW! I have no idea that I could use it in a silicone mold... I've been using wood molds all this time. Thanks so much for the insight.
Not a great casting but you're on the right track. 1st you need to make your mold so that the clamping surfaces are FLAT and PARALELL, the edges don't matter. Moldmax 60 is OK but Dow Corning 3120 is more economical and easier to mix accurately. Temperature of the pewter needs to be about 600degF. With the pewter at casting temperature you need to dust with talc and w/o closing the mold pour pewter on the mold cavities a few times to warm up the mold. Hot mold is the rule. To assemble the mold the aluminum plates are great but need to be clamped LIGHTLY with some sort of screw clamp or vise.Next you need to flux the mold using 20 Mule Team Borax. Just a pinch in the melt pot. Use a ladle to skim the dross to the side of the pot and dip the ladle and pour into the mold. Talc can be applied by putting it in a athletic sock and pounced on the mold. Teflon can be used as core material to form holes in the casting. Look at info on sand casting about use of cores since same theory applies. Make sure your sprue is long and tapered since it provided pressure on the metal in the mold cavity. Factors that effect the casting quality include part orientation, metal temperature, venting, etc. Hope that helps.
the paste type catalyst is much easier to mix i use a second hand triple beam balance you can measure small mounts with this method do you have a web site ?
could you put a link for the silicon mold material? I have been casting pewter for 30 years and have a couple of suggestions . . . I use hardboard for my mold plates and an adjustable clamp rather than the rubber bands. I think if you are doing multiple casts the aluminium plates will get too hot to handle. The graphite coating works great, I got a locksmiths rubber squeeze bulb and buy my graphite by the pound, way cheaper. The casting pot you have in the background and the pour ladle are for bullet molding, but you can get a casting pot with a pour spigot and eliminate the ladle. The benefit of the casting pot is being able to maintain a constant temperature throughout the process and not burn the casting metal . . . you don't want to be breathing vaporised metals!!! love your videos and watch them all the time, keep up the great work!
You make it look so easy! Something I probably won't try for a while, but it's definitely good to know for the future. Both of you do an excellent job on the channel.
That was awesome and yes, pouring molten metal on a wood table, probably not optimal. I particularly loved the end screen, melting the pewter out of your 123 block. :)
When I've done white metal/pewter casting for my own props, I place the mold on an old cookie sheet. Any over pours will end up on the metal surface and not risk burning your work bench! Plus, you can skim the slag and dump it easily on an unused part of the cookie sheet for easy clean up later.
I have cast lead before and there are a couple of things that make for a good cast. Flux your metal. This will reduce the oxides in the metal and clean up impurities. A tiny drop of wax will work great. Proper temperature for the pour. Don't just pour it when it is molten, too cold and you will get voids in the metal and fine detail will not show up, too hot and there will be excess shrinking. I haven't cast with silicone but for a metal mold, soot from flame make great mold release. After you practice on the first cast you should cut it open with a scroll saw or jewler's saw to see how the casting went. Silicone probably does not have to be preheated to get the best results since it holds the heat in longer than metal but metal molds will need to be preheated.
Nice work! I scanned below, didn't see this, so am adding. I believe the yellowish color of the pewter indicates it is slightly too hot. Maybe that helps someone. It looks great!
I had no idea bout this moulding stuff :D I just use a CNC Milling machine and MDF when making a mould :D Save on making a mould by hand and they re-use like a boss! Plus much better for the environment!
Super helpful! I knocked over my roommates mini chess set and disappeared on of the pawns, a Greek soldier, which is not available to purchase anywhere! Thanks especially for the silicone 30 trial- I only need to cast one piece so it’s good to know I don’t have to go up to the 60 (price wise and amount wise)!
Amazingly well done video! Thanks so much for putting this together AND for revealing the types of rubbers used. Bravo! New subscriber and fan inbound!
I'd recommend adding a funnel type structure to your molds to help avoid filling your escape channels for the air with metal by mistake. Also gives you a nice cut off point for your cast.
Looks like you put a temper on the corner of your 123 block, man, probably didn't need that hot of a torch :) Of course I only think that because I just watched Clickspring tempering handmade drill bits...
Put a metal lube in the top of the vent hole so the pewter can not go into the hole. Also cast in a larger funnel shape into your silicon mold for the fill. Lastly put a pour spout on the other side of the big ladle
Bill, if you're ever heading to the San José area in the Southern Bay Area (California), give me a heads up and I'll show you and Brit the ideal small metal casting set up at SJSU
Try using French chalk instead of baby powder, the baby powder has elements in it to stop it compacting which create gasses when heated this in turns can create a pocked texture on the flat surfaces
When I used to do this for wargame miniatures I was told not to use metal for the mould clamps because it let the heat transfer away from the liquid metal too fast and didnt flow nicely into the details.
Just a word of warning - don’t rely on the temps from that thermometer for anything vital when doing this. Contactless thermometers like that one are calibrated for a certain reflectivity. The correction factor needs to be tweaked for various materials, and you’ll almost never get an accurate/reliable readout off of shiny, metallic surfaces.
Talc is great for silicone molds but I see you used baby powder. Most baby powder is made from corn starch now and not talc so my question is: what kind of baby powder did you use? Talc or non-talc? Talc powder is much more expensive than baby powder and I'm wondering if corn starch might burn.
You should have made the pinch for pouring on the other side, since both of you appear to be right-handed. You're pouring in the opposite direction than what is natural, and as a result the pour is not as smooth or accurate, and can overflow more easily than if you made it right-handed and poured to the inside of your hand direction rather than the outside. Still, really cool work, nice melting and molding!
Try doing lost wax.ferst use the latex mould to cast it in wax, you can clean up all the blemishes on the wax before casting the metal,drill holes ext ext.Then Then cast the wax into a one piece plaster mold.Then ether boil of the wax, or put it into an oven to do it this will also dry the plaster,wet plaster molds aren't a good idea,as they can explode.for casting the metel the plaster mold should go into a bucket of sand.Once cast the plaster can be easily cleaned of the casting. The latex mold will last a lot longer and you'll not end up with bernt molds. A bit more involved.With this type of method you can also cast aluminum and bronze .
If you’re looking at lost wax and have access to a form then they do a casting wax. There’s also a wax filament called moldlay. I’d love to try but getting my wife on board to melt metal is proving a bit tricky!
Hey, Punished-- expend a drop more rubber and build in a better pour stub in the master/rubber. Then, make a better pour lip thingie on your pot. And let's not forget to throw out those old 1-2-3 blocks-- they're disposable, right? (Eheh... wrap in foil or just go out and find some bricks, even broken ones.) Yes, yes-- don't want to end on all critical, back-biting comments-- very brave and good of you to show us that next step in serious modeling.
How much material do you get from the 1kg Castalo 60 packages? I want to make a mold of a silver bar I have. But only the top half of it. It’s like 12” x 5” wide. And I want it about 3/4” thick. Any help guys?? Thanks!!
This is epic! I didn't realise you could create metal-safe moulds from silicone. Do you reckon there's a way to reduce or even eliminate the seam? Or would you just have to sand it off after? Many thanks for this vid.
Non black body emissivity of molten metals makes temperature measurement by radiant/infrared methods very unreliable. You really need to use a contact/immersion thermocouple to get an accurate reading. This is important to prolong the life of your rubber mould. Also almost any powder will do to dust the mould. The powder is not used as a release agent but its presence as a thin film on the mould gives air a path to escape. Talc is traditional but I have used Calcium carbonate (green sand mould parting agent) and also iron oxide powder. No doubt Graphite would work but I judge it a bit messy!... Martin
Hey I would really like it is you can do a video on the suit of savitar from the show flash if you need to look at the suit you can go to the show flash and look at session 3 ep 23 from 25 min and 44 seconds
I think none of you are left handed, so the modification made on the pot to pour the metal would probably work better on the opposite side.
it hurt to watch the pour
I was just thinking the same thing.
Both sides, because why not.
Don't be making fun of us lefties! We are "special".
I always pre-heat my molds prior to pouring, it helps.
Good thinking! =D
How hot do you go? 400?
I usually just heat them on 400 for about 20 minutes, just enough to make sure the mold is heated all the way through. I heat the mold halves together, that way the heat inside the mold is retained long enough to start pouring.
@@KentuckyFriedGamers Sorry for the necro, but how do you pre-heat your mold?
@@TheKrister2 in the oven. You can also just pour the mold a couple of times and heat it that way as well.
I remember a long time ago I was always without the right returnable coin to release a shopping trolly so I cast one out of pewter using plasticine for a mold, the fine detail was terrible but it actually worked, I used it for years.
ohhhh I had no idea this was possible. I will definitely be using this technique in the future
Another great video!
Just FYI, a friend who owns a company dealing in industrial heating and heat monitoring equipment, told me that type of thermometer will give you inaccurate readings from reflective surfaces, like shiny pots or molten mettle.
Oh that's very interesting! I think it was close enough for what we were doing, but that's good to know for other applications.
Yup for infrared thermometers a matte black surface is ideal for accurate readings
David Bond A quick blast of high-temp engine paint on the side of the pot would at least give you a way to get an accurate reading of the pot’s temperature.
That's a pretty good idea
Another great video! If you pre-heat the mold with either a couple of casts or in a toaster oven at 300° and will also help with detail.
Good tip, thanks for sharing!
Rather than talc, you can get better, (& shinier), results using powdered graphite to powder and release the mould.
Oh snap! I hadn't thought of that! Thanks for the tip. I can try that next time I cast metal.
You can purchase Graphite powder, in large & inexpensive quantities, at your local art or craft stores. You can also find it in most hardware stores, too. Although, the quantities they carry are usually very small and costly.
Graphite is rather unusual. It can be used for a large number of uses. Aside from being used as a "dry lubricant" and for making illustrations, it can also be used as a dry pigment in a variety of materials, (mostly, for a wide range of grey-tones), and, a mould release for casting metals. Also, it can be used for aging/weathering props & costumes, creating a surprisingly realistic "dark chrome" or gunmetal-look. And, a little of it goes an incredibly long way. One word of caution, though. Use it sparingly, because it can get extremely messy if you are not very careful, (this is especially true, when our feline Overlords closely inspect project progress..., 'LOTS of little black pawprints, EVERYWHERE..., don't ask me how I know this first hand).
awesome video.... I have no idea why I'm so addicted to casting videos.
They are pretty satisfying, I think.
Great video! Thanks for posting guys!
Thanks for making awesome materials! =D
Nice! Smooth-On giving Props to Punished Props. 2 of my favorite channels!
Will the max 60 stands on melting aluminum?
thank you for showing the mistakes! a lot of people forget about that when making a tutorial that you can't do trial and error off screen and have it be perfect when you put it on because when others try it and inevitably fail the first time, now they can see why
Thanks for showing the results of the low temp silicone, I've always used plaster moulds for pouring metal, not ideal!
I've worked with pewter several times and I knew that the melting point was low but WOW! I have no idea that I could use it in a silicone mold... I've been using wood molds all this time. Thanks so much for the insight.
You're welcome! Have fun. =D
Not a great casting but you're on the right track. 1st you need to make your mold so that the clamping surfaces are FLAT and PARALELL, the edges don't matter. Moldmax 60 is OK but Dow Corning 3120 is more economical and easier to mix accurately. Temperature of the pewter needs to be about 600degF. With the pewter at casting temperature you need to dust with talc and w/o closing the mold pour pewter on the mold cavities a few times to warm up the mold. Hot mold is the rule. To assemble the mold the aluminum plates are great but need to be clamped LIGHTLY with some sort of screw clamp or vise.Next you need to flux the mold using 20 Mule Team Borax. Just a pinch in the melt pot. Use a ladle to skim the dross to the side of the pot and dip the ladle and pour into the mold. Talc can be applied by putting it in a athletic sock and pounced on the mold. Teflon can be used as core material to form holes in the casting. Look at info on sand casting about use of cores since same theory applies. Make sure your sprue is long and tapered since it provided pressure on the metal in the mold cavity. Factors that effect the casting quality include part orientation, metal temperature, venting, etc. Hope that helps.
Flux the metal - sorry about that !
It is definitely challenging to mix MM60 in an accurate manner. I'll have to try out the Dow Corning 3120.
the paste type catalyst is much easier to mix i use a second hand triple beam balance you can measure small mounts with this method do you have a web site ?
Besides my sci-fi projects, I also do a bit of Ren Faire type projects this is going to up my medieval prop game! hahaha sweet video! thx Bill
You're most welcome! Share you awesome work with us on Twitter: twitter.com/chinbeard
could you put a link for the silicon mold material? I have been casting pewter for 30 years and have a couple of suggestions . . . I use hardboard for my mold plates and an adjustable clamp rather than the rubber bands. I think if you are doing multiple casts the aluminium plates will get too hot to handle. The graphite coating works great, I got a locksmiths rubber squeeze bulb and buy my graphite by the pound, way cheaper. The casting pot you have in the background and the pour ladle are for bullet molding, but you can get a casting pot with a pour spigot and eliminate the ladle. The benefit of the casting pot is being able to maintain a constant temperature throughout the process and not burn the casting metal . . . you don't want to be breathing vaporised metals!!! love your videos and watch them all the time, keep up the great work!
Thanks for the tips!
You make it look so easy! Something I probably won't try for a while, but it's definitely good to know for the future. Both of you do an excellent job on the channel.
That was awesome and yes, pouring molten metal on a wood table, probably not optimal. I particularly loved the end screen, melting the pewter out of your 123 block. :)
it really helps to warm the moulds up before the pour, stops the metal jumping out
Thanks for the tip!
One tip that might help for you. If you are right handed- try putting your pour spout on the other side. I love all your videos and have learned a lot
That's a fantastic idea!
Really enjoy the slightly improv/learning-process style.
Glad to hear it! Prop and costume making is all about learning through mistakes and trying new things.
When I've done white metal/pewter casting for my own props, I place the mold on an old cookie sheet. Any over pours will end up on the metal surface and not risk burning your work bench! Plus, you can skim the slag and dump it easily on an unused part of the cookie sheet for easy clean up later.
Great idea!
- Paige
I have cast lead before and there are a couple of things that make for a good cast. Flux your metal. This will reduce the oxides in the metal and clean up impurities. A tiny drop of wax will work great. Proper temperature for the pour. Don't just pour it when it is molten, too cold and you will get voids in the metal and fine detail will not show up, too hot and there will be excess shrinking. I haven't cast with silicone but for a metal mold, soot from flame make great mold release.
After you practice on the first cast you should cut it open with a scroll saw or jewler's saw to see how the casting went. Silicone probably does not have to be preheated to get the best results since it holds the heat in longer than metal but metal molds will need to be preheated.
Funnel? Love the ingenuity with the pour spout and adjustments.
I don't know how warm you can get silicone but preheating the molds results in a complete, more precise casting.
Nice detail on the knurling right off the Form 2! Gotta love that SLS!
looks so easy! now I just have to see about mold making
TYSM for the vid!
You're so welcome!
Nice work! I scanned below, didn't see this, so am adding. I believe the yellowish color of the pewter indicates it is slightly too hot. Maybe that helps someone. It looks great!
Oh, thanks so much for the tip!
Arty the art piece! Thumbs up for Arty!
Arty just wants to be included.
I had no idea bout this moulding stuff :D I just use a CNC Milling machine and MDF when making a mould :D Save on making a mould by hand and they re-use like a boss! Plus much better for the environment!
Super helpful! I knocked over my roommates mini chess set and disappeared on of the pawns, a Greek soldier, which is not available to purchase anywhere! Thanks especially for the silicone 30 trial- I only need to cast one piece so it’s good to know I don’t have to go up to the 60 (price wise and amount wise)!
Amazingly well done video! Thanks so much for putting this together AND for revealing the types of rubbers used. Bravo! New subscriber and fan inbound!
Thank you so much for watching!
If you keep working with soft metal casting you should consider getting a production pot, like we use for casting lead bullets/shot.
I'd recommend adding a funnel type structure to your molds to help avoid filling your escape channels for the air with metal by mistake. Also gives you a nice cut off point for your cast.
Thanks for the tip!
Been away from this channel. I'm back finally 😍
Welcome back!
- Paige
Looks like you put a temper on the corner of your 123 block, man, probably didn't need that hot of a torch :) Of course I only think that because I just watched Clickspring tempering handmade drill bits...
"...and here we'll just add a happy little burn mark."
We were channeling our inner Bob Ross
A satisfying end card to go with the fun and informative content thanks.
Yeah that was a fun way to end it! =D
Thins turned out better than the enclosure, lol! X)
Put a metal lube in the top of the vent hole so the pewter can not go into the hole. Also cast in a larger funnel shape into your silicon mold for the fill. Lastly put a pour spout on the other side of the big ladle
Bill, if you're ever heading to the San José area in the Southern Bay Area (California), give me a heads up and I'll show you and Brit the ideal small metal casting set up at SJSU
Try using French chalk instead of baby powder, the baby powder has elements in it to stop it compacting which create gasses when heated this in turns can create a pocked texture on the flat surfaces
Y'all are perfect for each other....like Sheldon
Very creative to turn a burnt mark into a smiley 🤓
When casting metal you will get much better results if you preheat your mold before you pour your cast.
Optimism wins.
It looks like you need a larger opening and and should tap the mould to make sure it goes all the way down to the bottom.
When I used to do this for wargame miniatures I was told not to use metal for the mould clamps because it let the heat transfer away from the liquid metal too fast and didnt flow nicely into the details.
Hey good to know, maybe we'll try that next time.
- Paige
That burn in the counter was almost a perfect silhouette of a Troll Face meme. Missed opportunity.
Next time!
Just a word of warning - don’t rely on the temps from that thermometer for anything vital when doing this. Contactless thermometers like that one are calibrated for a certain reflectivity. The correction factor needs to be tweaked for various materials, and you’ll almost never get an accurate/reliable readout off of shiny, metallic surfaces.
Wouldn’t using metal clamps be better to hold the mould than wire as it’s easier to clamp and unclamp?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You're most welcome!
I do love your video. Nice demonstration.
You have memorialized the successful first pewter casting by drawing a witness. ;p
Talc is great for silicone molds but I see you used baby powder. Most baby powder is made from corn starch now and not talc so my question is: what kind of baby powder did you use? Talc or non-talc? Talc powder is much more expensive than baby powder and I'm wondering if corn starch might burn.
why that alluminium residue is it because u have not covered the pot im just asking for the sake of quality
How to make a Lightsaber out of plumbing supplies like Indy Mogul’s Backyard Fx
Another thing that you can do to improve detail is to put the mold in a pressure pot (like pressure casting resin.)
I've never thought to put a pewter casting in the pressure pot! Thanks for the tip!
What should the ideal metal temperature be for a good cast?
Your pewter sploosh smiley face reminds me of the kool aid man. Also this turned out SO COOL!!!!
*busts through wall* OHYEAHHHH!
should have watched to the end...make a larger head which will provide more pressure to drive the metal.
How different is die cast to pewter? or are they the same?
"Hey everybody, I'm a piece of artwork on the countertop, totally on purpose!"
You should have made the pinch for pouring on the other side, since both of you appear to be right-handed.
You're pouring in the opposite direction than what is natural, and as a result the pour is not as smooth or accurate, and can overflow more easily than if you made it right-handed and poured to the inside of your hand direction rather than the outside.
Still, really cool work, nice melting and molding!
Contenti sells bottom pour ladles to minimize/eliminate slag in your pour :)
Woah neat!
Punished Props Academy
contenti.com/bottom-pour-ladles
Haha, legit just finished a Mold Max 60 mold yesterday.
See you guys at Emerald City Comic Con!! :)
Splendid! =D
u need to use small funnel banana according to the hole size
How high temperature, for silicon can withstand
You need a proper pot with a pouring point, so it pours in smoother
Try doing lost wax.ferst use the latex mould to cast it in wax, you can clean up all the blemishes on the wax before casting the metal,drill holes ext ext.Then Then cast the wax into a one piece plaster mold.Then ether boil of the wax, or put it into an oven to do it this will also dry the plaster,wet plaster molds aren't a good idea,as they can explode.for casting the metel the plaster mold should go into a bucket of sand.Once cast the plaster can be easily cleaned of the casting. The latex mold will last a lot longer and you'll not end up with bernt molds.
A bit more involved.With this type of method you can also cast aluminum and bronze .
I would love to do that some day. I'll need some more equipment, but it's definitely an awesome process.
If you’re looking at lost wax and have access to a form then they do a casting wax. There’s also a wax filament called moldlay. I’d love to try but getting my wife on board to melt metal is proving a bit tricky!
Hit a 123 block with a blow torch? Do you mean your 1.2 2.3 3.4 block?
Beautiful!
Thanks!
@@punishedprops yeah! If I were to cast something, with silicone, without metal or resin, what is the best non toxic way?
Make your vent hole higher than your pour in hole.
Really helpful tutorial!
Possibly an aluminum extension tube to bring air release vent above the pore area would allow for better venting. Maybe not.
That could work.
Hey, Punished-- expend a drop more rubber and build in a better pour stub in the master/rubber. Then, make a better pour lip thingie on your pot.
And let's not forget to throw out those old 1-2-3 blocks-- they're disposable, right? (Eheh... wrap in foil or just go out and find some bricks, even broken ones.)
Yes, yes-- don't want to end on all critical, back-biting comments-- very brave and good of you to show us that next step in serious modeling.
For sure, the mold design could use some work. I learn more with each project! =D
How about pouring the puter into a metal funnel for better aim?
The AvE is strong with this one.
Love the end song.
What about using a plaster mold? I know it would be a messy result, but, it could work, right?
why is the 2nd one gold? Is it pewter?
Where do you go to, to have one of these molds made?
Pre heat your mold so the metal does not harden as fast, just throw it in an oven at 400 for a few minutes.
Good day sir. what kind of materials you use in making a molder. this molder can use in metal and what is the durability of this material. thank you
Check out the video description! We list what materials we used to make the molds in this video
How much material do you get from the 1kg Castalo 60 packages?
I want to make a mold of a silver bar I have. But only the top half of it. It’s like 12” x 5” wide. And I want it about 3/4” thick.
Any help guys??
Thanks!!
Oh and let me add, that I am only going to make a 1 pt mold vs a 2pt.
I wouldn't recommend using a silicone mold for silver. Pewter is pretty much all I'd use with silicone. Anything else gets too hot.
For keeping out the slag, could you not use a SS wire mesh as a 'filter' of sorts?
I love molten metal. Oh. And window pane are pour on molten pewter.
funny and good video, thanks for sharing, I already bought a OOMOO smoothon 25, I never had used it , may I cast tin with it?
I don't think OOMOO can withstand the temperature - but you can check the product information to see what the maximum heat tolerance is
Hey guys does anyone have any advice on doing double sided coins this way? Like if I did a split mold like this would I need a air vent and such?
We haven't done a coin with metal but my guess would be you do need some kind of vent to make sure you get everything filled without bubbles.
That burn mark looks like Slimer!
It really does! HAA! =D
Great video your air vent is a little too small and to close to the pouring hole and are you left handed.
would stainless steel work just as good because I've been thinking of casting a metal ignika.
I believe the heat required is too much for most silicones
@@punishedprops understandable, but what else could I use instead?
This is epic! I didn't realise you could create metal-safe moulds from silicone.
Do you reckon there's a way to reduce or even eliminate the seam? Or would you just have to sand it off after?
Many thanks for this vid.
You need hitemp silicone
Can you try this with moulds of 3d printed items
I need help with my cyrax costume,any suggestions?
Non black body emissivity of molten metals makes temperature measurement by radiant/infrared methods very unreliable. You really need to use a contact/immersion thermocouple to get an accurate reading. This is important to prolong the life of your rubber mould. Also almost any powder will do to dust the mould. The powder is not used as a release agent but its presence as a thin film on the mould gives air a path to escape. Talc is traditional but I have used Calcium carbonate (green sand mould parting agent) and also iron oxide powder. No doubt Graphite would work but I judge it a bit messy!... Martin
How'd you make the mold.. 🙄
Hey I would really like it is you can do a video on the suit of savitar from the show flash if you need to look at the suit you can go to the show flash and look at session 3 ep 23 from 25 min and 44 seconds
Can you guys make a video on your paint booth setup
Pretty soon we'll be building a new paint booth and we'll do a video on that, for sure.
What about silver, gold & copper? Is this good for molding that?
The issue is the melting point. Those metals get too hot for the silicone we have, I think we mention that at one point.
@@punishedprops what silicone could you use for those metals, if any?
Silicone Rubber brand pls