Engine Building Part 11 - Installing Pushrods, Rocker Arms, Setting Lash, Priming the Oil Pump
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- Опубліковано 2 чер 2018
- Installing Pushrods, Rocker Arms, Setting Lash, Priming the Oil Pump on the Chevy small block 350
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LOVE your videos, you are a talented teacher :) A real gift for how to explain things and make them easily understandable.
Thank you very much Mark
@@PetesGarage after adjusting #1, wouldn't turning 90 degrees to #8, then #4, etc etc be easier/quicker for the valve adjustment ?
This is the 1st video I found that Decently shows how to set your roller rockers that's the last thing I needed to do On my engine and the only reason I haven't tried to start it. Thank you for this wonderful video
Glad it helped Gary, good luck
New to the channel. I've learned more in 3 videos than months watching other UA-cam videos. Thank you!
We're all here to learn, thanks Matt
Excellent how to video...Please keep them coming.
Thank you my friend
Great videos!! Love the detailed engine builds!!
Glad you like them!
Thank you for making this video. Clear, concise, and covered everything I needed as a somewhat beginner at engine rebuilding..
You are welcome!
Very helpful video!! Didn’t know there was a difference in setting valves between hydraulic and solid lifters. Might’ve saved my engine build.
Big difference! Good luck Joey
What a great video!! I'm getting my FAA Airframe and PowerPlant certificate this week and this is one of the absolute best videos I've seen with respect to clearly describing what's being done - along with excellent camera use. Thanks for taking the time to post!
Thank you very much Ed
Great explanation, very easy to understand. Cheers!
Glad you liked it!
Awesome Pete! The best video out there on this subject. Thank you!
Wow, thanks!
Man you have the best videos, clear and concise,engine building art.
Thanks my friend
Great video Pete!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks!
Thanks my friend
Great teaching
Thanks my friend
Thanks a lot you are great at explaining everything thanks again
You are welcome!
Those rockers arms are nice !
Pro Comp, they are pretty nice
Melvin those rockers are not that great. Better with scorpion or comp.
Thanks for the extra details on the difference of solid and hydraulic lifter backlash.
Glad it was helpful!
new here feel like ima gonna love this channel
Welcome Tyler
good video smart mechanic ..this guy would be good instructor ..
Wow, thanks
Your videos are awesome
Thank you Robert
Good idea to fill the oil filter too for priming
Great point!
great videos! keep them coming! wish i was your apprentice,lol
I wish I had time for an apprentice
Pete, Great video as always! I plan to use the same valve covers that you installed on this build. However, I did not see a video that showed the installation of the valve covers. I plan to use 350 3/8 1.5 Roller Rockers on my engine. Is there a way to ensure these valve covers will fit over these rockers without the use of spacers? Thanks!
Buy them from some place that will allow a return. I don't think it will be a problem
Great guide, one thing you mentioned but didn’t emphasis is rotating the engine while priming the pump. You must turn the engine over to allow oil to distribute to both banks.
Absolutely true. I mention it in another video.
Nice vid! What roller rockers, springs and lifters would you recommend for my 1994 z28 camaro? It’s a 5.7 lt1
Any standard replacement will do just fine.
Great video. A few months ago I bought a classic Camaro with ~1500 mi on a built 1970 SBC 350/383 stroker with Comp Cams roller lifters and roller rocker arms. Most of my cars have been timing belt overhead cams so I am not familiar with pushrod and lifters. I heard a loud tapping from the passenger side. I thought it might be some valve lash and I would follow your procedure in this video to fix it. I found at TDC compression the intake valve on cyl 6 has no lash, but there is very little lifter resistance. Pushing on the push rod end of the rocker makes it move about .2". The exhaust on cyl 8 moves just a little ~.05". All the other lifters have good resistance and no movement at TDC. I have seen videos when the lifters are dry/new you can get this movement on the push rod end due to no oil in the lifter to create hydraulic resistance. The engine hasn't run in a month or more so valve spring pressure could have bled off the oil pressure in the lifters. I would expect this on all lifters not at TDC when shut off. In theory depending on the crank position all lifters could be under some spring pressure so they should have bled pressure. Does this sound like lifter issues on i6 & e8 or am I being a novice and need to reassemble and run the engine to build oil pressure then recheck both rockers?
The valves may not be completely close at TDC. That is why you have to go by the other valve. Adjust the intake right before the exhaust closes, and adjust the exhaust after the intake closes.
It does sound like a collapsed lifter that is leaking down
Hello Pete! I discovered your channel recently and I love your videos! As I watched you pre-load the rockers in this video, I noticed your springs. How do you determine the best springs to use with a particular cam? Thanks again for your excellent work!
Hey Charles, When you buy a cam the card should recommend a spring. Cams and springs must be matched or else the cam will get destroyed. If you do not find a recommendation, call the tech support line for the cam manufacturer and ask them.
@@PetesGarage Thank you! I'll give Comp Cam a call.
Ok that’s what I did another question I have the magnum roller rockers so they just have the nuts not the poly locks, do you adjust the same way as your video shows ?
Yes
With using those roller lifters when your on base circle for which ever rocket your adjusting the link bar on the lifter will be straight leveled?
Only if both valves are closed
Excellent videos. Question about rocker stud installation. The kind in this video are the screw in with a nut shoulder. My question is do you use red loctite to hold them in place and what do you torque them down to? Does this apply to the screw in kind with the small lip shoulder (no nut) Thanks!
I do not use LocTite. The manufacturer will recommend a torque
Another really great video. Thanks Pete! Question: you don't call out pushrod orientation. Some engines (Chevy & more) have a side hole near the rocker end to squirt oil out sideways to lube the valves. Pushrod rotates with the hydraulic lifter to spread the oil around in a circle. It would be suicide to install those backwards.
Great question, the pushrods can only go in one way if they have a cup end. These engines get oiled from the top through the rocker shaft so pushrod orientation does not matter
Is priming the oil pump absolutely neccesary? And what tool did you use to prime it? Btw thanks for these videos! They have alot of valuable info for me
Yes, the engine must be fully lubed to avoid a dry start. You can either make a tool or buy one.
When installing the push rods it seems a few of my push rod guide plates is a little tighter then the others like all the pushrods are loose except a few have you ever ran into this problem ?
Yes, if they cannot be adjusted you can open them up a little
Hey pete, so i have the same heads. Wondering if you had any issuez with some of the push rods being to close to the wall. I think it has to do with the guide plates. If you did fix it how did you fix the problem.Our rods might be different and arms but not sure if that matters
I did not have that problem. You can adjust with the guide plates
I have been watching and taking notes on much of this .. do you think it's possible to rebuild an engine top end ie camshaft up..just from following UA-cam and common sense ?
Yes, I do it all the time, just finished one
ABSOLUTE GREAT VIDEOS!!! Watch them alot, using them as guides on my 350 build. I was wondering if you could tell me if you have heard anything about the proform rockers? I was considering using them on my build but I want to make sure the quality is good. Thanks for any input.
Thanks Jeffrey, the Proform are ok, I've used them
@@PetesGarage Thanks slot, one last question if it's ok, what is your preferred brand?
Depends on the engine, I use Comp, Harland Sharpe, Scorpion
My number 3 and 5 cylinder in my sbc 383 seem to require longer pushrods than all the other cylinders. Literally a full additional turn on the rocker cups to get them within the .019 spec. I have 7.900 in pushrods for all the other cylinders but those two require like an 8.10 to keep it under the two turns for these shaft rockers. Any idea why this is? It's a solid roller cam.
Are they all brand new parts? I've had to shim them, but never cut them
Pere, youre the only one that has shown the proper adjustment and preload for hydraulic lifters. Nearly every person on YT shows videos in where they are doing this totally wrong. I never go more than a quarter turn on my preload and if I use thicker oil that is necessary on houston texas heat I go with just a 1/8 th turn
Thanks Earl...I appreciate that
@@PetesGarage I am age 65 Pete and go way way back to early teenage years. I have rebuilt differentials and automatic transmissions and many american older centeral cam OH valves engines and been around to see the results of my work. Mechanics of today do not understand the engineering of hydraulic lifters. Your flat hydraulic lifters as well as the roller wheel type are so strong that even when dry of oil after installing you can turn your crank and see them push a valve spring completely open, so once they are filled with oil all that is required is zero lash then to tighten slightly for wear allowance and thats all they need. When these people turn them in a half turn or more they are only going to have an engine that once it is running the valves will never completely seat/close, as well as the lifter will hold less oil that can be pushed through the push rod to the rocker and valve stem area. .
I agree, thanks Earl
Hey,great video.i want to ask you,i have camaro ss its cammed and got problem on pushrod,can i install stock pushrod?the bent pushrod was comp,thank you
Chances are you could bend a stock rod. Replace with what was in there and find out why before you do. If there is a problem it will happen again.
Pete's Garage thank you
Hey,how are you?i have a camaro ls3 2010 its cammed,the spring valve broked and it was single spring but i didnt find the same spring i put for it dual spring from comp,but iam hearing bad sound at 1800 rpm,whats the problem?i removed the small spring and keeped the big one but the its start make more noise 😂
Hi Pete, with oil restricted pushrods, does the restricted side goes up or down on the lifter? Thank you!
Down on the lifter
I have a 351w stroked to 408. Can you tell me what size pushrods you used for your build and the brand of rocker arms. I have a flat tappet cam. Thank you
I have hydraulic rollers so they would be different. I think these were Elgin SSR840RS rockers
Ever had a SBC mid 70s 350 oil all the lifters except 1? I have that issue now with the intake number 1 cylinder. Swapped out the lifter from a known good, and still no oil, while the lifter that previously wasnt getting oil, works properly. I have tried a multitude of solutions, and none of them seem to be working to get oil to that lifter. Doesnt seem to be a blockage, cause the exhaust side works with no issue.
I know you looked, but I'd blow out the oil passage between the 2 lifters
How donu determine how long the push rods need to be. I have a 440 with edlebrok heads
I have a video about that ua-cam.com/video/ZaTnud3IKAI/v-deo.html
I would appreciate some help.. I just installed new gaskets but when I had the head all tightened down and I tried to put the pushrods in only 1 won’t go all the way down..? 5.7 hemi I would appreciate ANY advice
The gaskets could be on the wrong sides
Your video is a great video, I have an old motor in a very old Corvette. It is a 327 Chevrolet engine I have ran the pump I do see oil pressure coming up in my oil line, but because I have not rotated the motor am not getting a lot of oil through my hydraulic lifters in fact, only one is oily, because I am not rotating the camshaft.
This motor hasn't ran in 40 years, it probably only has 1000 miles if that it. If I'm not rotating the camshaft should I be overly concerned with no oil flow or low oil flow that I cannot see through my pushrods?
Thanks for your video,
Dan Butler
Try turning the crank a little at a time while rotating the oil pump. Since it has not run in so long I would do that many times before trying to start it.
@@PetesGarage Thank you!
When I ran the oil pump for constant 5 minutes, my gauge inside the car was reading out at 60 pounds of oil pressure.
I did lubricate the cylinders with light oil, 2 weeks ago and just yesterday rotated tires to turn over the motor by hand.
I also mixed in so rebuild lubricant in the oil has some additional protection.
The bolt to the harmonic balancer is broken off? I doubt that it's going to fly off, it seems it has been broken off all the time I've owned the car.
I was just a kid whenever I put the motor together with oversight from my father. There is virtually no area to maneuver with the motor in the car.
If I recall correctly, I ran the hell out of it, as a kid. Good thing I parked it, because that I think is only added value. It's an old Corvette. I have the original motor, this is just one I put in place as a runner.
Dan
Well, that balancer bolt is a HUGE gamble. I hope it works out for you.
Do you have to break in those hydraulic roller like the flat tappers?
No
Great videos you have here but I didn't see or can't find where you measured for your new but shorter push rod... is there a certain rule applied when doing this? I can tell you that my push rods in use now are standard for a SBC
I have a video about measuring push rods. The geometry is very critical
Yea I found it... it's part 7 of your series for those that are interested
Thank you
Hey Pete - Can you use the same procedure for hydraulic flat tappet lifters as opposed to hydraulic rollers? Your method seems a lot easier than the competition cams ( I have their 17001 aluminum roller rocker arms)instructions which are rotating the motor until the exhaust pushrod begins to move upward to open the valve And then adjusting the intake valve of the same cylinder, And doing the same for all the intake valves. The procedure they recommend for lashing the exhaust valves is similar.
Yes it can, just use feeler gauges to set the lash
Question. Sbc. I’m using a legit priming tool. I’m getting 50 psi. All rockers are getting really good oil except 3. 2 of those 3 are getting some oil at least. 1 rocker is dry. I have rotated the engine. Should I be worried or will it fix itself once running? Thanks!
Nothing fixes itself. Make sure you are turning the pump fast and long enough
@@PetesGarage I finally got the one dry rocker to flow some oil. Drill is wide open. Half in Milwaukee drill. Had the wife run the drill while I rotated the engine over by hand at the same time.
Is it difficult to rebuild an engine? To practice what's better a pushrod carburettor engine or a new one? I want to rebuild a 5.0l v8 and honda j35a from a ford it should work and than I will make a coffe table out of it
It depends on your ability and the tools you have, but anybody can rebuild an engine.
how long do you guys run your break in oil for?
Depends, on a full roller - first 500 miles, solid tappet - right after break in.
i have these exact rocker arms and I mixed them up. Yes I know I messed up bigtime. how do I find out which goes in the appropriate spot?! any quick to secrets? 😒
Since they are adjustable it really doesn't matter
Do you use a rev kit with hydraulic lifters?
I did not
ok pete my rockers are not hitting the valve a couple of them are off to one side just like your said in the video how do i get them centered up, i already got the right length pushrod and there hitting the center but a couple of them are not centered. sbc 462 heads stainless roller rockers.
Are you using a pushrod guide plate?
@@PetesGarage screw in studs 3/8 and guide plates
You have to move the plate left or right. The pushrod will center the rocker on the tip of the valve.
@@PetesGarage perfect pete it worked like a charm thank you very much
Awesome!
Looking for advice. My father and I have a 1979 firebird with a 1972 400 in it ( date code A132 block number 418988) we need a cam and lifters at least. I want to go rollers and im trying to convince my dad. Is it worth it? We are not planning to have a crazy performance race engine just more power than factory (enough to definitely FEEL it) can we get that with just an flat tappet cam that's got some extra lift and duration? The failures of roller cams online kinda freak me out so i would like your opinion.
It's worth it and you'll feel it
@@PetesGarage so you are saying to go with rollers? Or we will get plenty of power out of just an aggressive flat tappet set up?
Rollers will let you use a cam with a steeper slope so the valves can open and close faster
Is it aluminum block engine ? I've possibly timing chain slippage and maybe bent rods / valves ? This mechanic said in that case most likely a engine replacement .. That the aluminum engines don't take too much overhaul major work ? Any help will be appreciated . Small 2.0L Ford Focus
Iron block. Aluminum does not make a difference in rebuilding
@@PetesGarage yeah trying to get it started to take it to another shop. He's saying it'll cost almost the same ( $1400 swap out vs 1200 rebuilt) and it's more certain to work with swap out vs rebuild.?? Crazy
@@PetesGarage just today this mechanic thru phone walked me thru compression test . It was basically the same as others I've seen on videos . A lil different ( I think ) in that he didn't have me remove fuel pump fuse disabling it . he also had me take off all spark plugs off at same time and test with gauge . I cranked each for about five seconds and each one had over 120 psi almost 130 . He said that's plenty and manual says 12:1 . Sooo based on that he doesn't think engine needs replacing ..?? If you agree that's fantastic newss !!! That whatever the reason for my prooblem of not starting running definitely don't need engine replaced ?? !! Your input would be greatly appreciated sir
Hey mate how did you find the Crow Roller rockers
My machine shop
How did you install the oil pressure gauge?
It's just threaded in
What heads are you running and cam
Those are 5073 E-Street heads 12-408-8 cam
Pete, what assembly lube do you use?
I use multiple lubes as long as it has PTFE in it. You can just use motor oil if you are going to start it up soon after building it.
None on the rods or rocker arms that I could see.
Should there be any left to right play in the roller rockers on the side that goes on the spring
There should be some gap, .002" to .004" of the shaft
Pete's Garage pushrod side? I’m talkin about the end that sets on the spring (towards exhaust
@@leeduke9518 If there is gap at the shaft it will move on the valve tip too
Pete's Garage it ain’t got any play on the push rod side just left to right on the valve spring side
That is normal
When an engine is installed and one cares to move the crank pulley to find T.D.C. for a distributor install, tool is used to turn the pulley so one does not use the 5/8 bolt? Also do those 7/16 × 20 2.25 bolts use thread locker? I am intimidated of rounding the middle nut.
No thread locker is needed
@@PetesGarage how do i move crankshaft pulley to procure T.D.C. with out stripping the 5/8 bolt? I was told there was a tool that utilized the 3 bolts around the 5/8 bolt?
@@yeudsiegal5285 I use the bolt all of the time with no problems
@@PetesGarage my engine in the car it has a manual transmission behind the engine.
Will you be putting this on the dyno?
Absolutely, have to show how the Holley Sniper works. Every engine I build gets dyno tested.
Some people say to turn the pushrod and some say to move it up and down, what’s the difference between the processes
If you turn it you can go too far with the adjustment. Going up and down makes sure you only take out the gap.
Pete I have a question I have a 327 with roller rockers and I had a guy adujust them. But my compression is 150 in one cylinder and 120 in another. Someone told me they might be to tight or to loss. Ok what should I do? I never done adjustment before.
I've had to re-adjust many rockers that were set wrong. The process is different from solid to hydraulic lifters
@@PetesGarage sorry they are Hydraulic lifters
@@PetesGarage Do I set them the same way in the video?
Yes, get to zero lash and add a half turn
@@PetesGarage ok I have problem. I have a lifter pumping no oil.
What pushrods did you use ?
Every engine is different, I measure to make sure I'm getting the right length. These were from 440source
You did the job well. Much appreciated and close ups helped also. Thanks
Awesome, thank you!
While priming the oil pump, I am NOT getting oil to the right side (passenger side) valve train. I have read a number of articles about this subject because it is not a unique problem. I purchased what appears to be the right tool from Jegs. The boss that drops down into the block is not quite the same as the distributor but at least drops into the same position. I would cannibalize the boss off the distributor but unfortunately I chucked it since I'm converting to EFI.
You have to rotate the crank so #3 main is in the right position to let oil up to the passenger side. The oil flows as the crank is turning
Let's make sure we're talking the same language. To me, mains are crankshaft bearings. To say the #3 bearing has to be in the right position doesn't make sense. Of course it's in the right position. Where else could it possibly be? I know I'm getting oil to the passenger side, it's just that the pressure is very low. I confirmed this by removing the rockers, rods and lifters at cylinder #2 (passenger side-front), and sticking my pinky down into the oil gallery as I spin the priming tool. I'm getting very slight flow mixed with a few air bubbles. I also went to a slightly faster drill motor, which took the pressure from 35psi to 40psi. Would it help to install the starter motor and actually cycle the engine while running the primer tool?
@@jclements007 Sorry for the confusion. Yes, of course the bearings are in the correct position. What I meant was that the rails do not see constant pressure. The oil is fed intermittently as the crank rotates so if you are getting light oil pressure on one side you have to rotate the crank slightly so the oil pressure hole in the crank lines up with the feed line going up to the rail.
Should've put high pressure grease on those push rods before you set the lash. FYI.
Is there a specific reason? It will wash away when the oil circulates.
@@PetesGarage yes sir. Its recommended for intial startup, even with it being oil primed. They say it prevents any galling that could happen to the pushrods.
How do you measure for push rods
Buy an adjustable pushrod to measure, Summit sells them
What length pushrod did you use?
105-1008 from 440source
@@PetesGarage thank you
I did the same thing but i don't know what happens now because won't start
Tough problem
nice job i am a 1/4 turn man my self then after run in i re lash
That's the best way. 1/4 to a half is the most. I always rotate a couple times and recheck.
Are these 1-1.5’s?
Yes
I'm building a 385 stroker engine I adjusted my rock arm lash in the firing order 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 is this correct that's how my college automotive teacher taught me
At TDC at compression stroke
It can be done that way. I just prefer to do 1 at a time to make sure
@@PetesGarage I did one at a time I used a special tool a whistle that screw into the spark plug hole I would turn the crankshaft until it blow air into the whistle and it would whistle that at compression in the firing order and adjust the lash on the intakes first then in the firing order then go back to number 1 back to compression then adjust the exhuast valves next I seen that video somewhere becuase I have a retrofit hydraulic roller camshaft in my engine
@@PetesGarage hello are you there
It takes time to answer. What's the problem?
.
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