That was an amazing video. I love how you show the entire process: not skipping over valuable parts. I remember the first time I was putting a piston in and I hammered it as hard as you would to hammer a wheel stud out of a huge diesel truck, and afterwards, the piston was in, but the crank was totaled: $900. Dad was so pissed off
@@PetesGarage Hello Pete ,Charles I bought a sbc engine from Summit it's a 4 bolt main , two piece rear main seal . The problem I have is in front wear the timing chain goes the block has two holes that goes to the lifter's is that normal .
Thank you so much for these step-by-step videos, Pete! I am not a mechanic, but I have a 350 that I want to build and put in my 55 Chevy pickup. These videos will help me sooooo much!
Thank you!! I bought a 390 to replace the 289 in my wife's cougar to take it back to factory specs. Trusted the seller and did a compression test last night... 3 cylinders low pressure. Want to keep the block as it matches the car but don't want to spend 10-15k on rebuild. Going to bring it in the basement for a winter project going to watch a lot of videos and this one was excellent. Can't believe you put your phone number on at the end that is amazing
Wow! How have I only just discovered this gold mine? Only took this video for me to get addicted. Top quality. 10/10 already recommended to a friend. Everything you'd need to know, and then some more on top.
Also: ring gap is dependent on your usage. The one mentioned in this build seems to be a common NA engine type. A Nitrous or boosted engine with 18 Lb boost will call for .007" per inch of bore diameter. When grinding rings, only grind one side of the ring. That way you can easily keep the ends parallel and the gap even. (As an experiment: Grind two ends at the same time and compare by squeezing the ring together. The outside corner touches and the inner corner has a gap.) Lastly: When preparing your block: Very gently debur and round off the top edge of all cylinders. That way it is less likely to catch and break a ring during piston install. Good video!
Thank you sir 🙏 I’ve torn down the 5.7 HEMI to the block, for my grand Cherokee. These little videos are educating me on what I must do for the rebuild. I appreciate the vids. Keep ‘em coming.
great video i feel like you showed everything, a lot of people on youtube just skim through things and skip steps but you showed everything you have the best video about this stuff out there thank you.
Rewatching your videos again...it's giving me the engine building bug. I haven't built an engine in almost a year. I think I'm due lol. Btw you were right when i asked about using STP as assembly lube. Used it on the last engine and no problems at all.
Good question I always wondered that I saw a gentleman building a 1600 Vw bug engine and that's all he swears by half oil without detergent and STP say he's been doing it for x amount of year's zero problems.
Thanks Pete. I have a 383 stroker engine that I had fully built in 2008. After putting it in my 1966 Chevelle, I moved away for college. I only drove the car a few times (less than 500 miles), but when I did drive it, I drove it hard. I was young and reckless. I am now 30 and got the car out of my moms garage in Illinois and into my garage in PA. After doing some assessment, I found 4 broken pistons caused by what I would assume to be detonation. Like I said, I drove the car hard and not very often. These videos of yours are going to help me tremendously when it comes to fixing my engine. I know it would be best to have a pro do this, but TBH, no man should ever let another man touch his car without him present haha. And how the hell am I going to evolve as a Car Guy if my "work" is just opening of the bill fold? Thank you for being a resource for myself and so many others!
yeah, it's the little things that other people miss. i'm learning but i feel like i'd have better chance of not totally screwing up after watching this series
God bless you pete.Very categorically done, kudos and thank you.Also you may just need to oil your piston insertion tool. Thank you for this whole engine rebuild vid.
Hi pete, I have been a subscriber for a long time. The videos that i enjoy watching are your engine Building videos especially the small block chevy rebuilds.
New subscriber, love your videos. There are very few people that go into good detail on the little things like you do and its appreciated. Starting two engines tomorrow and this series helps greatly. Keep turning wrenches man.
Great video. Really enjoy the context, and almost feel the confidence rising to build my own engine. Only thing missing...check book to match. Till then, your videos will keep the dream alive.
I always dunk the piston(s) into a can of oil immediately before installation into the cylinder(s). After tightening the rod bolts/nuts, I wipe the top(s) of the piston(s) off in order to avoid having a lot of oil in the combustion chamber(s). In this way, there is plenty of lubrication available upon startup and very little piston/bore wear.
@@PetesGarage: Thank you. I am a mechanical engineer who owns a repair shop, and I have been a gearhead rebuilding engines from lawnmowers to heavy construction equipment since I was in high school fifty years ago. I also worked in the defense/aerospace business for quite some time, but cars, trucks, and racing were never far away. Keep up the good work.
If the opportunity presents itself, I would love to see a video on setting timing as well as how to break-in a sbc. I only ask because of the educational quality of your videos.
Great video, good info and interesting to watch. Thanks for a lot of the good tips, my only 2 cents are, yes "clicking" the torque wrench multiple times may move it out of accuracy faster, however if fasteners still move when you click it the second or third time then it is indeed torquing it even finer and closer to the mark. A lot of the machinery manuals I use at work specifically tell you to do this. First click is within manufacturers tolerance for the torque wrench (assuming it's been calibrated), sometimes that is pretty damn close to the money and it wont move after that on the same setting, other times it's 3-6 percent off on the initial click and will need additional clicks if you want the actual torque closer to what the wrench is set and calibrated to. Keep up the awesome videos though
I had a 3.9 magnum in an old Dakota. The damn thing was nearly indestructible. But if you have a Dodge truck I think I'd skip the 3.9 rebuild and just do a 318 (5.2) or 360 (5.9) swap. All three are nearly indestructible but the 318 is my favorite. With the right top end those things will love to rev and make some power.
I really appreciate the time you put into the engine build videos. I have restored many complete cars but never built a motor, or transmission. It is time my 61 rambler restomod gets a new heart beat. I was wondering if you have a video demonstrating how to file the rings if you do need to increase the gap and the tool you like to use to accomplish the task. Thank you again.
Quick, easy tool to set the ring in the bore for checking, put a ring in the second groove to create a stop against the deck, no guess, ring is square.
thanks for the cool video, I know it becomes messy but I think ( and i do) wipe the rings with a smear of oil so they aren’t dry on the sides (top and bottom) also that ring gap seem a tad big, I have used next size up rings once and filed them down for correct end gap as we know we loose some compression with large end gap, Awesome work cheers Brett
@@PetesGarage I used to use 1 thou per 1 inch of cylinder circumference which is pi x D. But also depends on ring material and heat load from power adders like: turbo, nitrous etc. Thanks! - Sandy
Please note that sometimes pregapped rings maybe a little on the tight side. Its always a good idea to check them and may have to file slightly. I have encoutered this mostly with NPR rings. Granted they are cheap rings but they do fine for a budget build.
You might try seeing end gap on the rings in their corresponding cylinder not all the rings in the same bore like you did. Better yet don't make a how to video on engine building if you don't know what your doing yourself
I normally make the gap difference on the second ring a bit bigger than the top ring to prevent flutter, but I'm Shure it will be good, as you said, not a high powered motor
10:16 I use new engine oil and coat the cylinder walls and the piston/rings in oil before installing the piston assembly. Everything goes together coated with new oil. :)
I've built some engines in my day and I must say your video is excellent. Your approach is right on the money. I like the cleanliness and the gloves. I noticed the spotless block as well. You say in the video that this isn't going to be a very big build, but I notice the Eagle rods, which are good for 600 HP. That would be a lot for a street engine. So what are the goals of this build? Thanks and I will be checking out your other videos.
Thank you very much Dave. I treat every engine the same. It is going in a '76 Vette daily driver. The goal is a little more HP than factory that is reliable.
This is why I watch a variety of people, everyone teaches a little something that someone else don't. Thank you sir.
I appreciate that!
I have a 91 chev 4.3 what roller lifters can I use were do I get over size valve covers for this application
@@PetesGarage Are 4 cylinders pretty much the same thing such as the honda civics?
Adept Ape is another great channel
Very thorough! Best video I’ve seen
That was an amazing video. I love how you show the entire process: not skipping over valuable parts. I remember the first time I was putting a piston in and I hammered it as hard as you would to hammer a wheel stud out of a huge diesel truck, and afterwards, the piston was in, but the crank was totaled: $900. Dad was so pissed off
ooooooo, that was an expensive lesson.
@@PetesGarage Hello Pete ,Charles I bought a sbc engine from Summit it's a 4 bolt main , two piece rear main seal .
The problem I have is in front wear the timing chain goes the block has two holes that goes to the lifter's is that normal .
it's wasn't your fault, you are the learner, problem always the teacher.
Going back and watching these videos again after about a year.
Edit:I guess i watched them again about 3 months ago. Must be addictive.
There's always something to learn
Great video Pete, it's so nice to watch someone that actually knows what he's doing instead of the ones that "think" they know.
Thanks Craig, it's good to get a variety of opinions
Thank you so much for these step-by-step videos, Pete! I am not a mechanic, but I have a 350 that I want to build and put in my 55 Chevy pickup. These videos will help me sooooo much!
You can do it!
Throwing 30 over pistons and rings bearings with a home job in a 400 sbc today. Haven't done it in 20 years . Good reminder video.
Glad it helped
@@PetesGarage yes it did bottom end all together. Was weird used the same pistons as you
Thank you!! I bought a 390 to replace the 289 in my wife's cougar to take it back to factory specs. Trusted the seller and did a compression test last night... 3 cylinders low pressure. Want to keep the block as it matches the car but don't want to spend 10-15k on rebuild. Going to bring it in the basement for a winter project going to watch a lot of videos and this one was excellent. Can't believe you put your phone number on at the end that is amazing
Good luck with the project, I'm happy to help
Wow! How have I only just discovered this gold mine? Only took this video for me to get addicted.
Top quality.
10/10 already recommended to a friend.
Everything you'd need to know, and then some more on top.
That is awesome! Thanks Shane
Fantastic video and explanation, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Also: ring gap is dependent on your usage. The one mentioned in this build seems to be a common NA engine type. A Nitrous or boosted engine with 18 Lb boost will call for .007" per inch of bore diameter. When grinding rings, only grind one side of the ring. That way you can easily keep the ends parallel and the gap even. (As an experiment: Grind two ends at the same time and compare by squeezing the ring together. The outside corner touches and the inner corner has a gap.) Lastly: When preparing your block: Very gently debur and round off the top edge of all cylinders. That way it is less likely to catch and break a ring during piston install. Good video!
Great comment, thank you
Yea my silverlite piston called for .026 street strip.Rings came out of motor as .033
Thank you sir 🙏
I’ve torn down the 5.7 HEMI to the block, for my grand Cherokee. These little videos are educating me on what I must do for the rebuild. I appreciate the vids. Keep ‘em coming.
Right on
Attention to details is a must. Glad you are teaching that. Great job!
Thank you Keith
Keith Mann hgovkvk
2 year old video but awesome to be here. very nicely done and good instructions and well explained. Thanks Pete's garage
Thank you my friend
great video man, thanks! you include a lot of details on the minor things that other videos don't cover.
Glad it was helpful!
The chamfer on the connecting rod faces the front of the engine, timing cover side
great video i feel like you showed everything, a lot of people on youtube just skim through things and skip steps but you showed everything you have the best video about this stuff out there thank you.
That's very nice to say, thank you Andrew
Rewatching your videos again...it's giving me the engine building bug. I haven't built an engine in almost a year. I think I'm due lol.
Btw you were right when i asked about using STP as assembly lube. Used it on the last engine and no problems at all.
That's awesome! It's time for me too. I think people overthink assembly lubes.
Good question I always wondered that I saw a gentleman building a 1600 Vw bug engine and that's all he swears by half oil without detergent and STP say he's been doing it for x amount of year's zero problems.
Thanks Pete. I have a 383 stroker engine that I had fully built in 2008. After putting it in my 1966 Chevelle, I moved away for college. I only drove the car a few times (less than 500 miles), but when I did drive it, I drove it hard. I was young and reckless. I am now 30 and got the car out of my moms garage in Illinois and into my garage in PA. After doing some assessment, I found 4 broken pistons caused by what I would assume to be detonation. Like I said, I drove the car hard and not very often.
These videos of yours are going to help me tremendously when it comes to fixing my engine. I know it would be best to have a pro do this, but TBH, no man should ever let another man touch his car without him present haha. And how the hell am I going to evolve as a Car Guy if my "work" is just opening of the bill fold?
Thank you for being a resource for myself and so many others!
Right on my friend....you gotta build it yourself
I am building believe it or not the same set up. This video is perfect for my project. Thank you so much appreciate it.💪💪💪💪💪💪
Enjoy it
Love how you show the whole process keep up the great work..👍
Thanks Rob, I appreciate your comment.
yeah, it's the little things that other people miss. i'm learning but i feel like i'd have better chance of not totally screwing up after watching this series
Appreciate you showing the real time and the step by step,great video
Thanks Richard
Thanks Pete, your videos help a lot of people like myself, so I don't drop the ball while rebuilding a 305. A 350 is already in the pipeline.
Great to hear!
God bless you pete.Very categorically done, kudos and thank you.Also you may just need to oil your piston insertion tool.
Thank you for this whole engine rebuild vid.
Thank you my friend 👍
Thanks Pete, looking forward to more!
Pete excellent video on the build process in real time. Nice to see how it’s really done. Thanks for sharing stay well Artie 👍🇺🇸
Thanks 👍
SMART MECHANIC...........GOOD VIDEO .THIS GUY WOULD BE A EXCELLENT INSTRUCTOR
Wow, thanks
Awesome videos Pete. And you've replayed nearly every question asked in the comments. Too bad you don't film such builds anymore.
I try my best. I would, but how many times can I film building a 350...lol
Hi pete,
I have been a subscriber for a long time. The videos that i enjoy watching are your engine
Building videos especially the small block chevy rebuilds.
Thanks Michael
Forde Engine
That was a great tutorial. Thanks a lot. Keith in UK.
Thanks my friend
I’m rebuilding a Honda 4 cyl vtec and this was still very helpful. Nice video 👍🏼
Glad it helped!
New subscriber, love your videos. There are very few people that go into good detail on the little things like you do and its appreciated. Starting two engines tomorrow and this series helps greatly. Keep turning wrenches man.
Thanks and have fun!
Great video. Really enjoy the context, and almost feel the confidence rising to build my own engine. Only thing missing...check book to match. Till then, your videos will keep the dream alive.
You can do it
True teaching ability. Thank you
Thanks my friend
Very Informative and well done. Thanks so much for video and help!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Pete, very thorough and helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
thanks you solved my confusion how to measure it. I watched 19 videos no one explained that easily like you did
I'm happy to help
@@PetesGarage thanks
That was really helpful, I’m doing a z1000 , it’s daunting for me but that’s so helpful, thank you. And you’re a nice geeza. From Simon in the UK
Thank you Simon, good luck with that Z
Good job thank you so much Pete, your video is really educative. Am looking forward to seeing more videos on different cars engines installation
Glad you enjoyed it!
GREAT VIDEO & EDUCATION!!!! I LEARNED SO MUCH!!!
Thanks John
I always dunk the piston(s) into a can of oil immediately before installation into the cylinder(s). After tightening the rod bolts/nuts, I wipe the top(s) of the piston(s) off in order to avoid having a lot of oil in the combustion chamber(s). In this way, there is plenty of lubrication available upon startup and very little piston/bore wear.
Thanks for the comment Ed. Good stuff!
@@PetesGarage: Thank you. I am a mechanical engineer who owns a repair shop, and I have been a gearhead rebuilding engines from lawnmowers to heavy construction equipment since I was in high school fifty years ago. I also worked in the defense/aerospace business for quite some time, but cars, trucks, and racing were never far away.
Keep up the good work.
outstanding video and appreciate how you show every step. i like the detail. show it like it really is. Thank You 👍
Thank you Arthur!
If the opportunity presents itself, I would love to see a video on setting timing as well as how to break-in a sbc. I only ask because of the educational quality of your videos.
Thanks for the idea!
Thanks for doing this vid best in explaining how to rebuild your engine
No problem 👍
very nice video and for the details. thank you for the help.
Thanks for watching
Best car videos Hands down
Thank you very much my friend
your channel has inspired me to build an engine. Looking for blocks
Awesome! You can do it
Your videos are very good.
Thank you very much!
Great video, good info and interesting to watch. Thanks for a lot of the good tips, my only 2 cents are, yes "clicking" the torque wrench multiple times may move it out of accuracy faster, however if fasteners still move when you click it the second or third time then it is indeed torquing it even finer and closer to the mark. A lot of the machinery manuals I use at work specifically tell you to do this. First click is within manufacturers tolerance for the torque wrench (assuming it's been calibrated), sometimes that is pretty damn close to the money and it wont move after that on the same setting, other times it's 3-6 percent off on the initial click and will need additional clicks if you want the actual torque closer to what the wrench is set and calibrated to. Keep up the awesome videos though
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for such detailed video
My pleasure
Very helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thanks Pete for a really good descriptive video 😁😁
Thanks my friend
I like your attention to detail.
It's the details that help make you successful.
Great videos Pete thanks
Very well demonstrated, thanks
Thanks Bobo
even if i have seen it before we still like your vids
I try to put something new in every video
Excellent explaination
Thanks my friend
I dont have a chevy but this information is good i tell you
Thanks Lawrence
Another great video man. Keep it up!
Thanks again Benjamin
You are an awesome instructor. :)
Thank you my friend
thanks for all the tips
Thanks for watching
Thanks for a great video.
Glad you liked it!
Great tutorial. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
Great vid Pete 👌
Thanks my friend
Wow your are the best I'm learning some good stuff, for my rebuild of my magnum 3.9 gracias amigo
That is awesome! Thank you my friend
I had a 3.9 magnum in an old Dakota. The damn thing was nearly indestructible. But if you have a Dodge truck I think I'd skip the 3.9 rebuild and just do a 318 (5.2) or 360 (5.9) swap. All three are nearly indestructible but the 318 is my favorite. With the right top end those things will love to rev and make some power.
Well said and done ✅
I subscribed 👏🏻👍🏻
Welcome my friend
Thank you great video very clear
Thanks Saul
Great video series. Thank you for posting.
Thanks Jim
Best video yet!
Thanks my friend
Thanks you sir have learnt something
It's my pleasure
@@PetesGarage thanks
I really appreciate the time you put into the engine build videos. I have restored many complete cars but never built a motor, or transmission. It is time my 61 rambler restomod gets a new heart beat. I was wondering if you have a video demonstrating how to file the rings if you do need to increase the gap and the tool you like to use to accomplish the task. Thank you again.
I do have a video about rings. It's on the last 440 build I did.
Nice working
good video.. 👍 can't wait for the next one.
It's out!
real nice video, ty for posting sir. will be building me a 350 vortec soon this will be helpful.
Awesome! Good luck
Great video
Thanks my friend
Love the way you work.
Thank you my friend
love the 4 bolt mains 👍🏾
Me too!
Really helpful 👍💯
Glad you think so!
Good point, I saw many people working with a torque wrench and tighten many times, that's wrong. It means over-torqued!
Torque wrenches are often used improperly.
God job i like yours works
Thank you my friend
Quick, easy tool to set the ring in the bore for checking, put a ring in the second groove to create a stop against the deck, no guess, ring is square.
Thanks for the tip
Thanks so much brother. Regards
My pleasure!
I like the program
That was awesome!
Thanks my friend
Great video bud
Thanks 👍
Thanks Pete!
No worries!
Badass video. I’m doing the exact same engine.
That's awesome! good luck
👍 Nice video
Thanks for watching!
Thanks from Egypt.
Thank you my friend
Standard budget type build but in reality it's going to be a very decent engine.
Turned out awesome, thanks Mark
thanks for the cool video, I know it becomes messy but I think ( and i do) wipe the rings with a smear of oil so they aren’t dry on the
sides (top and bottom) also that ring gap seem a tad big, I have used next size up rings once and filed them down for correct end gap as we
know we loose some compression with large end gap, Awesome work cheers Brett
Thanks for the info!
Top video
Top man 😊
Thanks! 😀
Very informative , I've always used .004 to cylinder bore D` ....never a problem .... Never heard of .0035 when did this happen ?? LOL
It happened when some manufacturers developed products they wanted to consider special or custom.
@@PetesGarage I used to use 1 thou per 1 inch of cylinder circumference which is pi x D. But also depends on ring material and heat load from power adders like: turbo, nitrous etc. Thanks! - Sandy
Fantastic thanks
Most welcome
Please note that sometimes pregapped rings maybe a little on the tight side. Its always a good idea to check them and may have to file slightly. I have encoutered this mostly with NPR rings. Granted they are cheap rings but they do fine for a budget build.
I agree 100%
You might try seeing end gap on the rings in their corresponding cylinder not all the rings in the same bore like you did. Better yet don't make a how to video on engine building if you don't know what your doing yourself
I normally make the gap difference on the second ring a bit bigger than the top ring to prevent flutter, but I'm Shure it will be good, as you said, not a high powered motor
That's a good practice. I follow what the manufacturer recommends
10:16 I use new engine oil and coat the cylinder walls and the piston/rings in oil before installing the piston assembly. Everything goes together coated with new oil. :)
I do the same
18thou, you were lucky. Last engine I did had about .025, actually worse than the 130000 miles ones I replaced.
Wow, I make sure we bore and hone to a standard ring gap size
Love u man. U r great help
Thanks my friend
It very interesting
Thanks
Thank you
You're welcome
I've built some engines in my day and I must say your video is excellent. Your approach is right on the money. I like the cleanliness and the gloves. I noticed the spotless block as well. You say in the video that this isn't going to be a very big build, but I notice the Eagle rods, which are good for 600 HP. That would be a lot for a street engine. So what are the goals of this build? Thanks and I will be checking out your other videos.
Thank you very much Dave. I treat every engine the same. It is going in a '76 Vette daily driver. The goal is a little more HP than factory that is reliable.