Engine Building Part 12 - Installing an Edelbrock Performer Dual Plane Intake Manifold SBC 350
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- Опубліковано 8 чер 2018
- Intake manifold installation. Edelbrock Performer dual plane.
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I like your videos because if something doesn’t go to plan it’s not edited out, it’s left in to teach others what to do (or what not to do). Great video as always!
Thanks Kyne. Everyone makes mistakes or has problems, I would not be honest or be helping anyone if I said I didn't.
@@PetesGarage how to time a td27 pump
@@PetesGarage l km
So appreciate you showing how to handle things when they don’t go perfectly!
It happens
At first I thought "this guy serious put all the effort into production and is using the factory wall gaskets you're kidding me?!" Then when I saw you run into the problem and fix it I was really impressed because most channels do not show mistakes and fixes. Kudos to doing a great video
Thanks Nathan, I knew that was going to happen which is why I showed it.
Pete your videos are the best on engine building. Really enjoy them. Brings me back to when I was a teen working on a 327 cu in dual quad 4 speed and had a 456 rear. Oh and it was a 57 Chevy. Fun times.just went to the Chevy dealer a purchased whatever you needed. No science just fun and speed 👍🇺🇸
Ah the good ole' days
Thanks Pete, I got several great "take-a-ways" from your video.
Excellent my friend
Never used those gaskets before, but I really do how you didn't edit out that part and showed what can happen! Excellent video as always Pete!
The goal here is to teach, and this is a common problem so I showed it
great video Pete. I have never liked those gaskets. But having said that i have made lots of money fixing that leak the way you did. Great stuff Pete
It was a good training video. It's almost like the gasket came on out purpose ; )
I use the sealer on corners only when using the end gaskets. I think that sealer acts like lubrication on the rubber letting it shift. Been putting these engines together since they had points. But still looking to learn something new. Great job.
It's always an adventure, thanks William
what, their something other than points
Pete your the man. Thanks for providing so much awesome content.
Thank you for watching Edward
Thanks Pete. Very good job on the video, I have watched several on this topic and , by far, yours is the best. I subscribed to your channel! Keep up the good honest work, sir.
Thank you very much and thanks for watching
You should never use silicone on a rubber end seal because it acts as a lubricant and allows the gasket to squeeze out. You should just use the silicone by itself without the rubber seals. Also, you never let the sealant dry a bit before assembly like you indicated.
Thanks Steve
Nah that's how I've always done it get it tacky then drop the intake
Thank you for the very informative videos. I don't know a lot about engines but you cleared up a lot for a novice.
That's my goal John. Help everyone who wants to learn.
No anti seize?
Love the detail on this it helps tremendously
Thanks Donald
Very patient when that gasket came out and you cleaned up everything after to do it again, great vid
I left that in to show how to fix it, thanks!
Man, you laid that sealant on the heads like a surgeon. Almost as if you've done it before. ;)
Maybe one or twice : )
Back about 40+ years ago ,on my Ford 390, I had problem sealing after market aluminum valve covers on. The gaskets would eventually squish out. I used a trick from Hot Rod magazine: drill some small holes at the sealing surface for metal coat hanger that is cut off at an angle to leave a slight "tooth" to bite the gasket. I've used this on valve covers and China wall gaskets. Worked great back in the day of lo tech gaskets.
Cool tip, thanks
perfect pete like always
Thanks Jerry
Thank you for the video . Will be doing the exact same thing soon for the first time
Have fun!
Thanks for another great teaching video 😎
Thanks my friend
Great video. Rebuiding a 1970 Monte Carlo with a small block 400. Went with NKB aluminum heads and a 2701 Edelbrock performer. Will install same way. Skip White Performance that sold me the heads suggests the 1205 or 1206 gaskets for intake, as one is thicker. Not sure until I set it up. But, this video is a great example. Thanks!
Thanks Mike
A very detailed and informative video Pete! First time I have watched any of your videos. I think I have to pull my manifold on my 71 Nova with a 350. I believe the rear of the manifold to block seal is leaking.
I hate when that happens
@@PetesGarage yea I hear ya. It sucks. But I drive my stuff, so stuff happens.
Thanks Pete. I just bought a motor/car with this intake and it is leaking bad at the rear intake seal. I looked up the Edelbrock installation instructions and they say in all caps to NOT use the end seals gaskets. Well I watched a little further and now I know why. Thanks again. ~P ps - If your interested a walk around on the car/motor is on my channel.
Nice looking car....gotta love the screw in the vacuum line
@@PetesGarage LMAO! You saw that!!! Ya...not there any more. The sparkler show was the #7 spark plug wire blowing up against the manifold. In case you wundered. ~P
outstanding!
Thanks my friend
I just did this today....I'm pulling it ALL back out in the morning I mess it up big time according to this proper video Happy memorial day yall
That's how we learn, thanks Derek
I used those front and rear manifold gaskets on my sbc. Last weekend my neighbour pointed out that the front gasket looks like it’s pushed out? After looking closer, not only did it push out, but it split. Now I have to go back and reinstall the intake manifold. Lesson learned, and I won’t be using those black rubber gaskets again.
Great lesson learned. Thanks for sharing that with us.
Cool instructions Pete. I'm about to overhaul a 4.0 Bosch engine out of a 1999 Range Rover. I will watch your videos a couple more times. So I make the Right plan on.to have everything I need .This will be my first build .Your videos give me the confidence to tackle it.Any advise you got will be grateful.thank you for your time!
That is a fun engine to rebuild. Check to make sure the parts fit
Great video guy!
Thanks my friend
nope, things don’t go exactly as planned alright. Surprised that a few thousands of an inch make the gasket not fit as intended. Live and learn! Thank you Pete😊
Thank you!
Most people would have edited out the gasket fail and just put "I never use the supplied gasket, I just use silicon" or "I just use silicon and heres why" showing the gasket pouched out.
You just came up a couple more notches in my book for being honest and human because I've had this happen to me many times. Honestly the only way I've ever gotten those rubber gaskets to work is to silicon them on the bottom (only) as you did and give it a few hours (or the next day) for the silicon to set up and then continue as you did. I wished I stayed as calm as you do......:-)
Thanks Warren. This is a learning channel and everyone learns from mistakes. A failure is just an opportunity to learn. Thanks for your comment
dad had an engine shop back in the day...GM actually STOPPED using those manifold to block gaskets and used a bead of dope instead. they used an orange color with an X mark thru and thru the sealed surface.
Interesting, thanks for sharing that
good points on there. Even though this is a Chevy, it's still informative on a 302 I'm working on.
I try to make videos that apply to most engines
Hello Pete we had a same problem to fix it glued two intake gaskets together .
That's one solution, thanks
i had the same problem and will use just use sealant at the ends.My heads have had a lot taken off them
That's perfectly fine
Just the video I needed on a Saturday night while I eat this deer vegetable soup.
Awesome.... deer vegan soup
I've never eaten a deer vegetable. Do they grow on the side of the road and just roll out in front of your car at the last minute? :O
Subbed!
Awesome
This is where RTFM comes into play. The instructions provided with Edelbrock manifolds say not to use end gaskets, just use RTV.
Mr.Gasket and FelPro kits include the end gaskets but the manifold specific Edelbrock 2701 kit, just has side gaskets and includes a small tube of RTV. Rubber gaskets seem to always slip and leak.
From Edlebrock installation instructions: *_Do not use cork or rubber end seals. Use RTV silicone sealer instead._* *_Apply a_* *¼"* *_high bead across each block end seal surface,overlapping the intake gasket at the four corners._* *_This method will eliminate end seal slippage._*
Always read the instructions. I put it in to show people what can happen with those end gaskets.
I get it and you are 100% correct. Sad to think that, nowadays, people need to watch a video because they can't follow the provided instructions though.
The typical gasket instructions also state to install the gaskets dry...no gasket maker on the intake to head gaskets. The same thing that happened to the rail can and does happen to the intake gasket, causing it to distort into the port or even tear the gasket itself...resulting in vacuum and/or coolant leaks They make high tack gasket sealants for holding the intake gasket in place during installation. Another good option to prevent gasket failures is to upgrade the gasket itself to a gasket with a steel laminated core...like many factory style gaskets have been for a while now.
Like that powdercoated manifold. Paint sucks. Great video. Thanks for being chill!
Thanks my friend
Edelbrock recommends using their gaskets they are .060 thick and using bead of sealer front and back had to take off manafold when I bought my Chevy it had antifreeze in the intake when I pulled off carb they used Felpro and they leaked also rubber slid out front and back
Great comment, thanks
Sorry to say when you were putting the front and back gaskets on. Bad ideal, good video Thanks for all your advice. Don't get upset stay cool.
That's why I show it, so people know what happens if you do
Hi Pete , great video I like the fact that you explained why that gasket bulged out the way it did . I have SBC on my stand right now and I took the intake off ( edlebrock) soni could clean the water ports, what's the best way too clean them out? Thanks again Pete!😎
Hi Mario, rinse the ports with water. See if you can get a long brush in as many ports as possible
outstanding work with the silicone Mr Pete. I end up looking like a 3 year old even after I've just looked at the stuff
It does take practice...lol
Good stuff. I'm going to need this knowledge when I change out my Air Gap to a standard Performer for hood clearance. My AMC 401 engine has what appear to be custom machined aluminum spacers at the front and back under the intake manifold that I assume the builder required to make everything fit the Indy heads. Hopefully they did not machine the Air Gap.
That makes it very difficult. You'll have to check the fitment of all parts to make sure
I like your vídeos some videos I’ve seen they don’t add rvt around the water ports .
It's a good practice
The vapor locking special. Stay with stock cast iron or go air gap. That exhaust crossover causes vapor locking
Interesting, thank you
Not that your heads have the exhaust ports. Just saying. Exhaust crossover is a problem with percolating gas in todays ethanol gas
Watched en all so far was there one where the push rods were installed and lashed?
ua-cam.com/video/ZaTnud3IKAI/v-deo.html
I have thoroughly enjoyed your videos! I have a soft top 66 bonneville 389 I'm starting to develop a plan for. Seeing your dual quad setup here got me curious about options for mine and I saw that edelbrock made a dual quad intake for it. I want to stroke it and do some other witchcraft to it. For a car that will stay off the strip. Would a dual quad setup be overkill? It interested me for the potential but also the wow factor.
Dual quads are nice, you can use 2 small ones no problem
@@PetesGarage Ok, That's what I was kinda thinking along the lines of. I just have to keep the CFM in the neighborhood of what it would typically want to keep the vacuum where it should be right ? I did see on an episode of Engine Masters when they compared a dual quad to a tri-power, which would be the other idea, that they didn't really gain anything power wise over a normal setup but were more thirsty. I think they just had two full size Edelbrocks on there though... They showed in another one the effects of using too big a carb which also showed that issue since it wasn't mixing well from not enough vacuum.
Pete another great video sir hey Pete I have one question when you started torquing the bolts you had a message flash on the screen that said universal joints will affect the torque?? What do you mean by that ?? As always thank you sir
Thanks Billy. If you use a universal joint and turn it on an angle, you will not torque the fastener fully. That universal uses up some of the energy.
Ok Thanks for telling me that!! Keep up the good work sir!!
Hi Pete, what are your thoughts on letting the sealant set up a bit before installing the manifold?
You can, but put a skim coat on the manifold to make sure it seals
I learned the hard way just like you....then i put the gaskets in dry except the corners and water jackets...all the engine builders use a big bunch of gasket caulk and no seals front and back...It failed for me and i let it set 12 hrs...
That's how everyone learns....lol
If milling the block puts the heads closer, will it then cause the manifold intake runners to be misaligned with the intake ports or misalign the water ports?
Yes it will. Depending how much is milled it will also cause the bolts holes to be off.
Any time you put a steel bolt into aluminum ( dissimilar metals ) you put Anti-seize on the threads so you dont roll the threads .
Only if you plan on taking it apart. If you do use Anti-seize make sure you adjust the torque for the lubricity.
@@PetesGarage very true!
My 262 4.3 Performer looks very similar but must be a few inches shorter LOL..... I don't know why they didn't make a front and rear end gasket set!!!! Would be nicer than a bead of Ultra Copper to set the manifold on! ONLY use gasket sealer where your end gaskets meet your intake gaskets!! I have had no issues after following directions.
Great comment, thank you
Isn't it a bad idea to remove bolts to install brackets after the gaskets have been torqued and the RTV has dried?
Not as long as you do not disrupt the parts. If you follow the torque specs and tightening pattern it shouldn't be an issue. I've never had a problem.
The EPS rules! Luke says "that is a performer intake" ole ben obie wan then says "That is no performer intake. That is a performer EPS intake. Not a performer RPM intake, and not the performer intake".
Great video... I'll be doing this in a few weeks. My gasket kit came with cork end gaskets. What are your thoughts on those? Thanks
Cork are fine, just do not over tighten
Great video sir. I have to put the same intake onto a 350 engine my friend bought the MSD EFI KIT. do you have any recommendations on anything besides what they tell you in the instructions?? Return fuel line? Removing springs from the distributor? The truck 1986 Chevy. With 700R4. They put a cam in it when he bought it but I’m not for sure which one. The truck belongs to a really good friend of mine he don’t have any kids or anything and I just want to make sure that I do the best job I can do when installing this kit!! Thank you sir!!
You will always, usually have to put the lighter springs in the distributor to get the right vacuum advance. I would follow the instructions as close as possible unless you run into a problem. MSD has pretty good tech support if you need help.
Thank you Pete!!
I'm performing this same project for a corvette. I don't have much hood clearance and plan to use the Holly Sniper EFI. Do you know the exact model of this intake?
This is the Edelbrock Performer 2701 manifold. I can tell you the factory air cleaner will not fit under the hood with this manifold. The Sniper unit is the same height as a carb.
So I installed the same intake on my truck and new edlebrock carb . When starting it idles at 1600 rpm and when I step on the gas hard it dies . Do you think I have a vacuum leak at the intake ??
It sounds like a vacuum leak
This was like asmr to me
That's a new one
Hello Pete is it a good idea to put the sealant on the out side of the gaskets because I see you put the sealant on the inside
Thanks
Hey Pete - checking your video (you are my go to reference...lol) I am mounting an RPM air gap (new) on a new SBF (Stroker) - I bought STUDS because I thought might be easier.better than the bolts. What is your thoughts? Does it make a difference or just ease of dropping on the manifold? Thanks - Oh and do you recommend some sealer on them as well of not needed on a SBF ?
Hey Robert.... since the manifold is such a low torque there isn't a huge advantage to studs. The main reason to use studs is to evenly distribute the load instead of twisting a bolt. No sealer needed on Ford head bolts.
@@PetesGarage Thank you !
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I am installing the same intake on my 1970 Z/28 350. Edelbrock says to not use the cork or rubber seals on the ends but to use a 1/4 bead of RTV. I used the FelPro 90314-2 thicker gaskets but used Permatex Ultra Grey and the included rubber end seals. Any concerns? Thanks.
It's hard to say, hope it doesn't come apart when it heats up
Does the powder coat process warp the intake? I know most of the powders I've used take like 350-400 degrees to work. I didn't know of this high of heat would warp them or not.
It does not get hot enough to
@@PetesGarage ok thanks
Pete, I have a sbc 350 block from a 78 Vette I picked up at a junk yard with a few pieces missing. There is a threaded hole on the back of the block, on the top, on the same plane that comes in contact with the intake manifold, set back from the manifold. I have not been able to figure out what mounts here. My guess would be a crank case ventilation device. Older engines used to run a tube out and down tot he ground. Is that what this is? I'm converting the engine to EFI.
It's most likely an oil port for a pressure gage
Do u add rtv to both sides of the gasket
Yes
You gave me the part number for the intake....you have one for the gasket set?
Fel Pro 260-1000
What the others said, throw the end seals in the trash, RTV only never any shifting or leaks. And no need to place RTV on the heads, that's what the gasket is for!
I always do. I put them in to show what can happen.
@@PetesGarageAhhh, understood. Thanks for the clarification, really enjoy your vids
My heads look like yours with no exhaust port in the middle, and water ports on both ends. But the Edelbrock Performer 2701 does not have the water port openings in the rear. Do we just ignore that rear port opening on the heads or is there a different model Edlebrock Performer for that?
You need the manifold that matches the heads
Can you tell me what size the temperature sensor input is on this manifold? Thanks.
I believe it's 1/2"-14 NPT
Im building an AMC 360. It has a sheet metal valley pan under the intake. I’m planning on using an Edelbrock performer intake instead of the stock one. Do I have to use the valley pan or no?
If the intake gasket is part of the valley pan I'd use it
Pete, thanks for the vid. A question/opinion request for ya. I'm acuminating parts for a 350 motor re-build. I've got the same manifold, new in the box for $100 and a new Edelbrock 1411 750cfm for cheap... $175. While I have many details to figure out... would you consider the carb as excessive for a mild performance build... I sure want to use this new carb. Thanks for the powdercoat comment... I was not thinking about that... added to the 'to-do list' column Other details: 1968 350 block/4 bolt (taking it the machine shop this Friday) need it done up right...any unique details to pass? brass plugs vs steel? or ? I also got to check if the new ceramic hugger headers I bought for my 96 LT1 can fit...this old 350 block...they were spendy so I'd like to use them.Just getting my ducks in a row and will research soon...just thought I'd ask the question.
That's a big carb for a mild build. Brass plugs are fine.
Great video! Did you simply lightly powder coat the manifold without the baking process? I'm looking into having my manifold powder coated, but they want $300. I'm looking into buying a powder coat sprayer.
All powder coating needs to be baked
Can you rebuild a bmw straight 6 engine? Like the s38b38, it is a very rare and powerful engine used in some of the bmw e34 m5's.
Send me one and I'll do it
well the felpro 1266 did not work i have deeper issues.. Great Vid. I have a fresh 355 with Dart heads that were from a circle track car. Heads were milled and i can see light on #8 intake through my victor Jr intake. My machine shop said to use washers on all 4 corners that equal gasket I'd. Then mold BB` model clay on all runners top and bottom. Slice in half and measure depth. Going to try tomorrow. Also china wall close but not hitting yet. Anything else i can try? Thanks. John
That's a tough one. I'd have to see it
@@PetesGarage took .060 off china rail all fixed....
Never used RTV on anything that fuel comes in contact with... Usually the fuel eats the RTV! Rubber gaskets rarely work, cork better, but RTV is standard practice with most engine builders.
I agree
Will a 1405 carb bolt right to the intake or do i need adaptor or spacer?
Should be a standard size
Hi Pete how did those heads perform.
They're pretty good. Definitely a great upgrade
How about Pete's Garage What is the color of the block? I see that it comes a little stronger than the original Chevrolet Orange
Chevy orange right out of the can
I hear from many chevy engine buiders that is better to put a bed of sealer instead of the ruber gaskets because they tend to leak
That is true
Can you explain why my Edelbrock performer intake does not line up with iron eagle heads? Using 1206 gaskets
Not without knowing more information
@@PetesGarage 1266 worked
What are all the threaded holes in the crossover at the front of the manifold for?
Accessory brackets and coolant temp sensors
I thought it was bad to run sealant around the intake runners, just wondering
You do not need to, but I've never had a problem
Is this for all engines, Straight 4's put some right stuff around the intake ports?
Lime you can use whatever you want, as long as it seals :)
Kinda lost, you use RTV on intakes?
I use the gasket that is suppose to go there. The point is, to not let air enter. Rtv will work fine.
Yes
Hi is there a water tube for the 2176 manifold?
I got one from 440source
See you have those stainless big shaft rockers arms on yours! Mine made by Elign, I just built a nice show motor with a 355 scat kit and 495 flat tappers cam, 15 mins. Into break-in I heard a tappet noise and shut it down, I have #2 & #6 loose and #2 is way loose in the pivot shaft, like its eating needle bearings already, I have metallic in my new motor around head bolts! Those rockers are supposed to be super strong and handle 700 lbs. Of seat pressure. Mine didnt make it 15 mins and only have a 495 lift cam. Getting ready to tear it back down. I'm sure These people making inferior parts will not pay for anything! Hope you have better luck with yours than I did! Wish someone could get my motor running right without all the problems! Rick.
I could be something else. If you have the rails upside down or the wrong bolts in the head oil holes it will not get enough lube
@@PetesGarage built by a shop in town that does all the street to race motors, he came out and couldnt fiquer the rocker arms either, took them off and didnt seems as bad, but definitely slop in 2, watching lifters they were going lower on 2 of them do its took the cam, will have to start all over now, definitely not going back with any flat tappet cams! He suggested going solid roller, will have to get new heads springs,push rods,and rockers. Added expense I didnt need! Dont see why it's so hard to break in these flat tappet cams, had the valvoline zinc oil in it, everything was right about motor, all arp bolts, studs, and guide plates, and stud girdle, NKB alum. Heads, good push rods, rockers seems to be perfect on the studs! Havent seen any others besides Elgin brand, know comp cams make some, dont trust the Elgin's now. Or why cams are like this, they say detergent in oil even the zinc oil is breaking down, guys are taking springs out and using weak springs to break in, then re installing good springs! If this is the case everyone should avoid flat tappet and go with rollers from the get go! I'd give a 1000 right now not to have this problem, builder says November before he can get to it! Any suggestions on roller cam specs for a strong street motor without going crazy? somewhere around 500 lift. Do rollers cams sound more aggressive on same lift since there sharper and make more power? My 495 Lanati was barely talking but responsive. Heads will handle up to 535 lift. Not racing it, just a real good street motor. Thanks, Rick.
@@PetesGarage what you mean on rails? Trunion shats?
You do have to take springs out to break in a flat tappet. Going to roller hydraulic will help, then the zinc is not as important. Maybe .500 up to .535 would sound nice
Rocker rails
What brand of intake Gaskets are they
FelPro
Okay question an hopefully i hear from you soon lol cause I have mine all apart. but did the intake work an not leak or anything cause my 1978 chevy C10 350 has the same curve in the block an the factory intake manifold for the China wall . and I'm worried that the new intake like you have won't seal in the front good cause the new intake doesn't have that sharp curve to it. So thought I would ask you ??
As long as you put a bead of sealer on top of the wall and smear a thin layer on the bottom of the manifold, it will seal.
@@PetesGarage okay thanks
Hey Pete does it make a difference if the tough stuff is black or gray when putting the intake manifold on ? Great video !!!
Melvin Tucker it does black is for oil, different types of rtv have different purposes.
Different colors do mean different things. At the factory all oil pans, front covers, and bed plates are put on with a gray RTV, Black is the color I use. Just make sure it is for engine building applications. I've used black, gray, orange, clear, and white RTV.
Thanks Pete
Since you used an extension when you torqued the intake did you use a conversion??
No, an extension does not change the moment arm
@@PetesGarage OK, just wondering, I have to convert all the time when I'm working on a Turbine Hot Section when I'm using a Crows Foot. Thanks! I'm very interested into learning how to build car engines since I do aircraft engines all the time.
I'd love to build an aircraft engine, maybe we can help each other
I don’t recommend china wall gaskets rather just the bead
Works every time
Can you sand blast a aluminum intake top bottom and sides ?
Yes, but clean it thoroughly, then clean it again.
Stephan, don't blast the plenum, the runners, or the underside. sand particles can embed in the aluminum, and later can drop off into the lifter valley and get into the oil. same with the plenum, sand can wash into the cylinders and scar the cylinder walls. wash your manifold real good, then paint it with some cast-coat aluminum engine paint, preferably Dupli-Color from your local parts store. your manifold will look like it just came out of the box brand new.
Is that rtv or right stuff also isnt it a bad idea to use on the ports?
i use it sparingly
Do yourself a favour, chuck those end seals in the Bin that go across the valley China wall underneath each end of the intake manifold. Use only a bead of sealant across there.
I do, I did that on purpose to show what can happen if you use the end gaskets.
I did exactly this with a sbc 406 and everything went perfect. But now my dizzy doesnt drop. I rotated motor and it drops when shaft falls in but the outer edge of dizzy is not centered with intake hole! Arg. Flotek 220 heads 23 degree. Idk what's up. Should I drop dizzy before torque?
I'd figure out why it's not aligning before torquing it down. Has to be something simple
@@PetesGarage it turned out to be a badly core shifted brand new air gap!
@@DiscoGreen Wow,, good find!
What kind of socket and swivel did you use???
Just regular tools, nothing special
I've seen a few videos that claim ditching the ends gaskets for rtv is better ?? What are your thoughts on that ??? Thank you great vid !
I made the video to show what happens if you do use the end gaskets, which is why I never use them
@@PetesGarage thank you so much brotha 🙏
It says no end gaskets only 1/4 inch rtv only
I did it to show what can go wrong
how long did it take that gasket to leak? gas dissolves RTV. never put it around the intake ports.
It happened immediately. I put it in to show what happens
@@PetesGarage that's actually really good idea. I made that mistake years ago with a carburetor gasket
@@PetesGarage I also used a really cheap no name not felpro intake gasket one time. The gasket failed within a month and was sucking oil out of the valley to the point it was running out the exhaust pipe.
I have a few questions. Can i use the aluminum manifold on a boat engine??, i heard that the boat with one forward gear produces more pressure? can the aluminum take that pressure? thank you.
Sure, I put them on boat motors. I've never heard of a pressure issue.
O k that's good so i will try the Edelbrock manifold, thanks for the info.
Pete do you sell these powder coated intake manifolds?
No, but I do coat them