Great vid, very informative. I would add that CCI 41's are great primers, they are not absolutely necessary for the 223 round. Most times, poorly seated primers are the cause of slam fires. If you load a ton of 223, and your rifle is setup correctly, standard primers are fine for most loads and powders.
Okay, I have a question. To avoid having dozens of different primers, can you narrow down to an average amount of small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, and magnum primers. Since an average person would need a warehouse in order to store/keep every type of primer made.
You can substitute a standard small rifle primer for a small pistol primer. You would never know the difference if you didn't know. I have loaded over 500,000 9mm with small rifle primers without issue. Learned this from a Winchester rep during a small pistol primer shortage 20 years ago, Mike DIllon was in the office at the time and confirmed it. Don't try to substitute a small pistol for a small rifle though, same Winchester guy told me this.
There are several basic sizes. Large rifle/pistol small rifle/pistol and shot shell. The rifle/pistol ones come in standard and magnum. It depends on the load and the brass cartridge that you're using.
@rage801 The magnum primer has more compound in it. This makes it more powerful and increases ignition reliability in magnum loads using slow burning dense powders like H110.
In regards to primer mals, I heard a story of someone who was rechambering the same 2 rounds everyday for a long time in an edc pistol, maybe months maybe years, and the wolf came knocking one day and when he fired those 2 specific rounds, no bang. These rounds were constantly the first 2 that would be fired in succession at any given time. However all the other rounds in the mag performed. It was determined that rechambering everyday for a length of time caused the primers to come undone/damaged somehow. Not sure what the dynamics are but thats my question. Can primers really get destroyed inside of them through constant rechambering? What is happening to them?
@BlltPrffAsssn Its a safety thing. If you store them in an ammo box then if they detonate you have a bomb but if you have then in rubbermaid containers then if there is a detonation the primers will be scattered and the resultant explosion will be far less. I recommend the air tight food storage containers put inside a rubbermaid container as shown in the video but with foam on the bottom/sides/top for cushioning.
It should be noted that the #34, and #41 CCI primers are magnum primers. This is stated on the Speer website: "No. 34 and 41 primers contain Magnum priming mix and should be treated as such." When loading these it would probably be wise to reduce your powder a couple of grains. Thanks for the videos.
Stick with W296 and magnum primers in the .50ae. Especially now since primers seem to be a pain in the rear to get, magnum pistol primers are always the last thing on the shelf.
The rubber made bin is good but two things: 1. Some people are concerned of static electricity sparking and setting them off. I don't see it as much of an issue. Primer detonation is almost exclusively impact only. 2. Order some desiccant packs and throw a decent size pack in the bin with the primers. Moisture is bad.
I once soaked several large rifle primers in water for about a week with no real agitation. I then removed them from the water and let them air dry for about a week. I then seated one in a .308 case (primer only!!!). I went into a dark closet and aimed the rifle at an old rag on the floor and pulled the trigger. Fire shot out of the barrel (24") as if it had been a normal primer. ....just something to think about.
I went shooting the other day and I had reloads (.38 cal) from 1992 and 6 out of 50 rounds had misfires....They did not go off. I fired them again and they didn;t go off. Do primers (CCI) go bad? I admit it;s been 17 years since I fired those rounds.
Excellent, I'm much relieved to hear it. The additional storage information if added to your video would make it much more comprehensive! As you frequently say, "Safety First!"
As to the shotshell primers, you are almost correct. There are quickdraw competitors that make their own primer only 35 special wax rounds. They ream out the primer pocket to accept shotshell primers and do a primer only charge behind the wax.
remind me what #41 primmers are agian. I have been using CCI standard small and large pistol primmers and standard large rifle primmers for awhile with no problems. I was about to prim some small rifle primmers and I was going to use standard CCI small rifle primmers. I have heard of the issues with slam fires, I have used standard cci large rifle primers with my M1A for awhile with not problems. The firing pin barrely leaves a scratch but noting the dangers I do seat my primmers deep
For a 9mm handgun, Would you want to use small pistol or large pistol primers? What is the difference? Is it size of the amount of compound in the primer?
HEY! THE GUY WANTING TO MAKE INERT PRIMERS CAN PUT A DROP OF OIL ON A PRIMER. BETTER YET JUST RESEAT FIRED PRIMERS IN YOUR BRASS! REMEMBER A LIVE PRIMER CAN DRIVE A BULLET INTO THE RIFLING SOMETIMES AND BLOCK THE BARREL! HAVE A GOOD DAY!! GREAT VIDEO!!!
Thankyou for sharing this video i found it very helpful. Now my dilema at the moment i only reload .44 mag i use the correct primer which is needed from my lyman manual and the correct amount of powder to the brand (winchester 321) mated to a 240 grain projectile. I always pay close attention to details my overall lengths are always spot on 1.610 and they always go bang when asked BUT i tend to feel that the reloaded rounds are smokier than a factory round! What am i doing wrong?
I did a lot of looking today for federal 215 primers for reloading my 300 ultra mag but i couldnt find any federal primers anywhere.. so what would be a good 2nd best? I have remington magnum primers and i got cci 250 today..
How about storing primers on small plastic ammo boxes together with silica packs ? (Short up to 1 year , median 1 to 3 years, long term storage over 3 years?) - any advantage and thoughts.
A while back, all that was available were magnum primers. I have been using them in place of standard primers for plinking. I can't say I notice any difference. Is it okay to make this kind of substitution?
I've been reloading M228 grenade fuzes with w209 primers but they are too much, what could I use that's a bit smaller but would seat in the 6mm hole like a 209?
What primer would you recomend for a 300 ultrag mag? im using h1000 and retumbo. Ive been using remington magnum primers but i havent heard much about them
I am new to reloading, and I just ordered a LEE 9mm Luger Pro 1000 Press Kit, and Looking at primers, I am unsure of what kind to get. I normally shoot 115 grain rounds out of a G17. Does it matter what kind you get if you change from a 115 grain to a 147 grain?
With all the madness thats going on today its getting almost impossible to get reloading components.I needed large and small rifle primers but the only thing left was magnum primers.Is that OK to use for my .308 and .223.They are for semi auto rifles.Thanks
Where do you buy your primers? I cant find any anywhere. Im loading for my marlin 45/70 and if I had ther primers it would cost me less than 10 cents a round since I have all the other components on standby. Please tell me where I can find large rifle primers
@GT03235 i also load for the 44 mag. i have tried many powders and found it may be the win 321. have u tried H 110. also i found unique is an accurate powder but is def the dirtiest and smokes a good bit. try different powders
@BlltPrffAsssn One other note: Keep in mind that the plastic, foam etc can generate static charges that some say are risky but I believe the risk is small. Primers detonate by percussion but I assume a spark could detonate them too. I have not tested this.
You forgot to mention that shot shell primers are also used for black powder rifle loads. Usually inserted into the breech of a modern black powder rifle such as a TCC rifle prior to firing thusly avoiding accidental detonation of a charged barrel.
I have small pistol magnum primers that I inherited but I don't have a small magnum pistol. Should I 1 go buy a small magnum pistol and reload for it or 2 should I use them in either a 9mm or 40 s&w but reduce the loads by 10 percent?
I like them The only problem I have had is 1 out of 100 #41 primers have been duds. Their BR or Bench Rest primers are great! The only primer better for accuracy is their #34 primer. It has yeilded better results than the Federal Gold Medal Match primers for me.
I own two Armalite AR-10 rifles and both of them have a spring mounted on the firing pin inside the bolt carrier group. The firing pin has constant pressure on the firing pin so it is NOT a free floating firing pin.
I have had slam fires before but never from my reloads. The first time was with my semi auto ak47 using some russian steel cased ammo NOT wolf. It fired off 2 rounds with one pull of the trigger I later determined it was due to a poorly cleaned firing pin and firing pin well. My SKS also had a slame fire WITH wolf ammo. Due to I believe the same problem. Dirty firing pin. So now I clean the hell out of my free floating firing pins every time I strip down and clean my rifles.
@ammosmith I did a lot of looking today for federal 215 primers for reloading my 300 ultra mag but i couldnt find any federal primers anywhere.. so what would be a good 2nd best? I have remington magnum primers and i got cci 250 today..
That is a rather cavalier answer when related to safety especially of others. Do you have any idea the potential harm that could be caused to firefighters/first responders in the event of a fire at your residence? Have you considered the liability you could carry both civil as well as criminal? You are very knowledgeable and seem to put a high premium on personal safety. IMHO you should give this some thought. This is an excellent example of why house fires are generally the most dangerous...
@Hiei102493 It's pretty loud but not strong enough to detonate anything. I've shot small rifle primers out of a CO2 pistol and they explode upon impact but nothing more than noise.
I only reload my handgun calibers (for now). I couple years ago, I tried out Tula primers. I absolutely love them. They are a major cost savings and reliability is nearly on par with other premium brands. Don't knock'em till you try'em!
Hans S. I like them too but here where im at their the same price as cci, I went to a gun show and paid cheaper but with the cost of getting in and parking it all came out to the same. I like the way they looked on my gold brass they match very cool look to them
MadSativa What are you paying? I buy almost exclusively from Powder Valley. Including shipping and hazmat fees, I paid about $30 per thousand just a few week ago. The thing with them, or any online retailer, is buying in bulk to offset the hazmat fees.
Hans S. for cci and win non magnum smalls I pay 30 for large non magnum I pay 32. Im starting to like the Winchester allot. The tula I got at a gun show for 26, but getting in was 7 and parking was 10 so it wasn't the best I dont go to gun shows here anymore its all inflated prices and the deals are not that great.
MadSativa That's not bad at all. I double checked my numbers and I actually paid about $26. Not sure why I was thinking $30. How long ago were you getting those prices?
@Jrhoney OUt here it's Wolf primers. They run about $7 cheaper than the CCI or any other brand. They also are as good as the Federal Gold Medal primers and are semi auto safe.
Is there any certain temperature you need to store your reloading primers at. I have always been under the impression that as long as they are kept dry, away from any moisture that they were fine as long as they were still in their cardboard containers.
I understand the associated risk of slam fires in semi or fully auto platforms. However, unless an individual repeatedly drops the bolt on the same cartridge, it's then that the risk becomes elevated, though still very unlikely. I have been loading for auto loaders, both handgun and long guns that shoot bottle neck cartridge's. Now if we were referring specifically to FA platforms #34's / #41's to be well served. I've conducted multiple tests using a number of different actions and chamberings, to date I have been entirely unsuccessful at inducing a slam fire. Using at least a half dozen different AR15 and AR10 platforms, and I've also tested some semi auto's like the Uzi, Tec9 and a few other semi auto platforms. I've tested standard primers from CCI , Winchester, Federal and Remington. Manually dropping the bolt 20 times on the same cartridge yeilded nothing more than a dinged up primer, but no slam fires in any of the weapons. Even the Federal primers wouldn't slam fire, this actually surprised me actually. I went on to test magnum primers, they actually did resist denting, in which the dents were significantly more shallow than the standard primers. Moving on to #34's and #41's, and when comparing them to magnum primers there was no discernible difference in dent depth. Over all, Federal primers were the softest and Winchester the hardest with Remington and CCI very similar.
The fact that was missing was the metal hardness of the primers. I have some remington primers that are so hard that a double strike is needed sometimes. If I wasn't so cheap I would get rid of them. CCI has a nice primer pocket divot strike on them constantly and that is why I only buy CCI brand. If you buy them compare the divot at the range from time to time with the same rifle. Don't point your rifle at the ground when you rack the bolt and that will help the slam fire.
i'm with wcmay, little overboard on saying a slamfire will destroy your weapon or kill you. i had a slamfire in my ak74 about a week ago using 7n6 surplus, fired 2 rounds in rapid succession of one another. other than the second round going off there is no issue, especially since the second round should end up near the first.
For .45 LC the primers of choice are LARGE PISTOL. Sice .45 LC is a pistol cartrigde, there's no point using a rifle primer. For me Murom primers do a good job.
Hi 😊 I'm in Nigeria, please how can I get W209 primer and where? I mean can I get it online Cuz it's illegal to own a gun here🤦 but I ended up making one for myself 😃
ive had my m1 garand slam fire 3 or 4 rounds off once.....was able to shoot it fine with no problems for about 2 years, now its doing it once in a clip or 2.... federal 150 grain soft point "power shok" ammo...i wnat to get a reloading set up...but too expensive to start, might have to switch brands of ammo
Yes, the books do instruct in primers. There's 4 basic for brass, small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, then the magnums, and the 50 BMG. oh, and the shotshell. Do not be tempted to use small rifle for small pistol and such nonsense. Do not use muzzleloading primers for shotshell.
@ammosmith im reloading for my .50 desert eagle and some tell me mag and some dont. some books dont even have the same powders! its annoying! thanks for the fast reply!
When loading .223 for an ar15 do you really need mil primers or are regular small rifle primers OK? Also my Lee primer manual specifies only cci or winchester primers for safety. which one is better for ar15 use?
I've never heard of a slam fire destroying the weapon before. To those that asked, a slam fire is when the firing pin rides forward with the bolt and hits the primer hard enough to set it off and fire the round. This is surprising and dangerous because all you might have intended was to close the action after inserting a fresh magazine when the weapon discharges. Appearantly this has caused uncontrolled fully automatic situations, but I've only ever heard of single rounds.
I just loaded my first 15 rounds of .223 last night and chambered one. It has a small dent where the primer was hit but it was really soft so i don't think it will be an issur
37,000 primers! WOW! Nice stock my friend! You wouldn’t be interested in selling me a thousand pack of small pistol primers would you? I would forever be indebted to you! Trying to find them in these crazy times is just that.... CRAZY! I have been waiting and waiting for even a few to be available to reload my 9mm components that I have ready just can’t for the life of me find any. Have a good one and stay safe and well. Keep the vids coming!
Ammosmith Reloading I totally understand brother I don’t blame you one bit for that. Take care and keep on with the videos you have some great information for us all!
@Mikey1052 I don't keep all my eggs in one basket. I have several locations where I store my ammunition and weapons. I generally keep 12,000 primers on hand. The rest are spread out to my second studio and at places where trusted friends keep them.
Small pistol non magnum. The difference between small and large pistol is the actual size of the primer. Small pistrol.rifle is about .170" in diameter and large rifle/pistol is about .220" in diameter. The power they have vary as well.
At1:55 you were discussing the CCI #34. What is a "slam-fire?" I have never heard that term before. Do non MIL-spec primers "detonate" under light primer strikes? Is that what you were talking about? ... Also, just sub'ed...
Various primers have different cup thicknesses and are made out of different materials. CCI #34's are made to a Nato specification, that is all. No you don't need them, just because you use a semi-auto with a floating firing pin. If you actually do have problems with slam fires then Wolf, Tula, or Sellier and Bellot have a harder thicker cup than the CCI Natos. The majority of "slam" fires are actually mistakenly called so. Usually a bump fire, or a worn sear allowing the hammer to follow the bolt on occasion. But from the user perspective, they wouldn't know the difference. A true slam fire indicates a problem where your firing pin is either sticking in the forward position, or excessively long (improper fitted aftermarket). None of which are related to the primer, but an actual problem with the firearm that needs to be resolved by a competent gunsmith or armorer.
darwinfoto09 yah I use the tula small rifle just for this they are thicker a heavier metal you can tell when seating the primer a bit more force is needed, Tula used to be cheaper now their not, but the price of those cci primers is like 45 compared to 30 so tula i about 26 for me its tula on 300 blk and 556 ammo.
darwinfoto09 also when checking bullet depth and cycling manually their are times when the primers are sightly dented form the bolt going forward and the pin hitting so it can happen after noticing this a long time ago I always take the pin out when checking things manually like that.
Not really. I have all the stuff but I have been focused on metallic reloading for a very long time. I will be doing videos on shot shell reloading this year though.
can you explain why a primer goes off when struck with force? in other words, what's going inside thta makes this create a spark versus a percussion cap
jason200912 between the compound is the cup and the anvil. When the firing pin strikes the cup it impacts the priming compound against the anvil. Lead styphinate crystals will spark and then react.
i'm reloading 38sp and i'm having problems with the primer coming out when fired and jamming up my revolver what causes this and what i need to do to stop it?
I was having that problem in my 9Major when I had excessive pressure and a compressed powder charge. Also I noticed some of my primer pockets were swollen open. Don't know if this helps, but if it occurs with ALL ammo, not just your reloads, then you may consider a headspace issue. Check for excessive end shake, may be time to add a shim. If it is only reloads, does it occur with a particular lot of brass? Do you have adequate primer seating depth?
Winchester? Had problems with them. Loose pockets. Or loading too hot. Don't reload plated cases. Load my 38 brass to 357 specs all the time with no problem in my GP100.
The priming compound is smashed between the cup and the anvil when your firing pin hits. Without the anvil, your firing pin would hit the cup and the priming compound would just flop loose, nothing would happen. Berdain cases have the anvil cut into the case primer pocket, rather than an anvil in the cup.
You have taught me more in 6 minutes, than I have learned about reloading, in my entire life. Thank you.
I'm still using primers I bought in the late 80's
I'm still using the woman I bought in the 80s
@@jungleno. Maybe time to upgrade to a woman born in the 80s? Lol..kidding
How many did you buy lol
Great vid, very informative. I would add that CCI 41's are great primers, they are not absolutely necessary for the 223 round. Most times, poorly seated primers are the cause of slam fires. If you load a ton of 223, and your rifle is setup correctly, standard primers are fine for most loads and powders.
Thank you so much for this informative video . I find putting in cryvac bag and sucking all air out best for long term storage.
Seb Australia 🇦🇺
Okay, I have a question. To avoid having dozens of different primers, can you narrow down to an average amount of small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, and magnum primers. Since an average person would need a warehouse in order to store/keep every type of primer made.
@rage801 If you're using a slow burning powder like H110 or W296 use magnum primers. If you're using Unique or a faster power use standard primers.
You can substitute a standard small rifle primer for a small pistol primer. You would never know the difference if you didn't know. I have loaded over 500,000 9mm with small rifle primers without issue. Learned this from a Winchester rep during a small pistol primer shortage 20 years ago, Mike DIllon was in the office at the time and confirmed it. Don't try to substitute a small pistol for a small rifle though, same Winchester guy told me this.
How are you doing now?
There are several basic sizes. Large rifle/pistol small rifle/pistol and shot shell. The rifle/pistol ones come in standard and magnum. It depends on the load and the brass cartridge that you're using.
How did you miss the opportunity to call this " A primer on primers"?
@rage801 The magnum primer has more compound in it. This makes it more powerful and increases ignition reliability in magnum loads using slow burning dense powders like H110.
Helpful as always. What is you opinion on switching primers between loads? Eg: Recipe call for CCI small rifle but you only have federal small rifle.
In regards to primer mals, I heard a story of someone who was rechambering the same 2 rounds everyday for a long time in an edc pistol, maybe months maybe years, and the wolf came knocking one day and when he fired those 2 specific rounds, no bang. These rounds were constantly the first 2 that would be fired in succession at any given time. However all the other rounds in the mag performed. It was determined that rechambering everyday for a length of time caused the primers to come undone/damaged somehow. Not sure what the dynamics are but thats my question. Can primers really get destroyed inside of them through constant rechambering? What is happening to them?
@BlltPrffAsssn Its a safety thing. If you store them in an ammo box then if they detonate you have a bomb but if you have then in rubbermaid containers then if there is a detonation the primers will be scattered and the resultant explosion will be far less. I recommend the air tight food storage containers put inside a rubbermaid container as shown in the video but with foam on the bottom/sides/top for cushioning.
It should be noted that the #34, and #41 CCI primers are magnum primers. This is stated on the Speer website:
"No. 34 and 41 primers contain Magnum priming mix and should be treated as such."
When loading these it would probably be wise to reduce your powder a couple of grains.
Thanks for the videos.
Stick with W296 and magnum primers in the .50ae. Especially now since primers seem to be a pain in the rear to get, magnum pistol primers are always the last thing on the shelf.
I have primers from the 60's that are still good. Keep in a cool dry place and they'll last one day short of forever.
Just tried to access ammosmith.com but I guess I need an invite 1st?...🤔
Can I buy some? Lol
The rubber made bin is good but two things:
1. Some people are concerned of static electricity sparking and setting them off. I don't see it as much of an issue. Primer detonation is almost exclusively impact only.
2. Order some desiccant packs and throw a decent size pack in the bin with the primers. Moisture is bad.
I once soaked several large rifle primers in water for about a week with no real agitation. I then removed them from the water and let them air dry for about a week. I then seated one in a .308 case (primer only!!!). I went into a dark closet and aimed the rifle at an old rag on the floor and pulled the trigger. Fire shot out of the barrel (24") as if it had been a normal primer. ....just something to think about.
I went shooting the other day and I had reloads (.38 cal) from 1992 and 6 out of 50 rounds had misfires....They did not go off. I fired them again and they didn;t go off. Do primers (CCI) go bad? I admit it;s been 17 years since I fired those rounds.
Excellent, I'm much relieved to hear it. The additional storage information if added to your video would make it much more comprehensive!
As you frequently say, "Safety First!"
As to the shotshell primers, you are almost correct. There are quickdraw competitors that make their own primer only 35 special wax rounds. They ream out the primer pocket to accept shotshell primers and do a primer only charge behind the wax.
remind me what #41 primmers are agian.
I have been using CCI standard small and large pistol primmers and standard large rifle primmers for awhile with no problems. I was about to prim some small rifle primmers and I was going to use standard CCI small rifle primmers.
I have heard of the issues with slam fires, I have used standard cci large rifle primers with my M1A for awhile with not problems. The firing pin barrely leaves a scratch but noting the dangers I do seat my primmers deep
For a 9mm handgun, Would you want to use small pistol or large pistol primers? What is the difference? Is it size of the amount of compound in the primer?
Yes it does. If you take the bolt our (field strip it) and shake it back and forth you'll hear the firing pin move forward and back.
HEY! THE GUY WANTING TO MAKE INERT PRIMERS CAN PUT A DROP OF OIL ON A PRIMER. BETTER YET JUST RESEAT FIRED PRIMERS IN YOUR BRASS! REMEMBER A LIVE PRIMER CAN DRIVE A BULLET INTO THE RIFLING SOMETIMES AND BLOCK THE BARREL! HAVE A GOOD DAY!! GREAT VIDEO!!!
Thankyou for sharing this video i found it very helpful. Now my dilema at the moment i only reload .44 mag i use the correct primer which is needed from my lyman manual and the correct amount of powder to the brand (winchester 321) mated to a 240 grain projectile. I always pay close attention to details my overall lengths are always spot on 1.610 and they always go bang when asked BUT i tend to feel that the reloaded rounds are smokier than a factory round! What am i doing wrong?
209 shotshell primers can be used on inline muzzleloaders rifles too?
thanks, nice vids
Excellent video. Thanks!
Winchester primers or Federal large rifle primers which is better?
The 3 hole press I have had a lot of issues with and it's sitting in a box. I personally load from a single stage press exclusively.
I did a lot of looking today for federal 215 primers for reloading my 300 ultra mag but i couldnt find any federal primers anywhere.. so what would be a good 2nd best? I have remington magnum primers and i got cci 250 today..
How about storing primers on small plastic ammo boxes together with silica packs ? (Short up to 1 year , median 1 to 3 years, long term storage over 3 years?) - any advantage and thoughts.
Some in-line muzzleloaders use shotshell 209 primers for ignition, in case it hasn’t been mentioned.
Yes they do and there are some 209 primers designed for in line.
This isn't about this video but I was wondering what you thought about 45 super
A while back, all that was available were magnum primers. I have been using them in place of standard primers for plinking. I can't say I notice any difference. Is it okay to make this kind of substitution?
I've been reloading M228 grenade fuzes with w209 primers but they are too much, what could I use that's a bit smaller but would seat in the 6mm hole like a 209?
What primer would you recomend for a 300 ultrag mag? im using h1000 and retumbo. Ive been using remington magnum primers but i havent heard much about them
what would you suggest for the quitest 9mm pistol primer for shooting wax rounds.
I am new to reloading, and I just ordered a LEE 9mm Luger Pro 1000 Press Kit, and Looking at primers, I am unsure of what kind to get. I normally shoot 115 grain rounds out of a G17. Does it matter what kind you get if you change from a 115 grain to a 147 grain?
So what do you recommend for a bolt action .308 tactical rifle. I currently use the CCI benchrest
And who knew that in less than 10 years ALL primers would be made out of 'unobtainium'?
Video useful. primres 6.45mm and how to get it and what is the appropriate size of the ccl fun
With all the madness thats going on today its getting almost impossible to get reloading components.I needed large and small rifle primers but the only thing left was magnum primers.Is that OK to use for my .308 and .223.They are for semi auto rifles.Thanks
Where do you buy your primers? I cant find any anywhere. Im loading for my marlin 45/70 and if I had ther primers it would cost me less than 10 cents a round since I have all the other components on standby. Please tell me where I can find large rifle primers
@GT03235 i also load for the 44 mag. i have tried many powders and found it may be the win 321. have u tried H 110. also i found unique is an accurate powder but is def the dirtiest and smokes a good bit. try different powders
@BlltPrffAsssn One other note: Keep in mind that the plastic, foam etc can generate static charges that some say are risky but I believe the risk is small. Primers detonate by percussion but I assume a spark could detonate them too. I have not tested this.
@sadeyedangel Is it like the older M60 igniters? Try replacing the primer cup in the 209 primer battery cut with a musket cap.
You forgot to mention that shot shell primers are also used for black powder rifle loads. Usually inserted into the breech of a modern black powder rifle such as a TCC rifle prior to firing thusly avoiding accidental detonation of a charged barrel.
I have small pistol magnum primers that I inherited but I don't have a small magnum pistol. Should I 1 go buy a small magnum pistol and reload for it or 2 should I use them in either a 9mm or 40 s&w but reduce the loads by 10 percent?
I like them The only problem I have had is 1 out of 100 #41 primers have been duds. Their BR or Bench Rest primers are great! The only primer better for accuracy is their #34 primer. It has yeilded better results than the Federal Gold Medal Match primers for me.
I have a formula tat I use for cast bullet lube that doesn't smoke nearly as much and is good for all velocity ranges.
Before the mil spec primers I used Winchester primers. It's a judgment call on your part if you want to use them.
Are they cast bullets? If so then it's the lubricant that smokes.
I own two Armalite AR-10 rifles and both of them have a spring mounted on the firing pin inside the bolt carrier group. The firing pin has constant pressure on the firing pin so it is NOT a free floating firing pin.
I have had slam fires before but never from my reloads. The first time was with my semi auto ak47 using some russian steel cased ammo NOT wolf. It fired off 2 rounds with one pull of the trigger I later determined it was due to a poorly cleaned firing pin and firing pin well. My SKS also had a slame fire WITH wolf ammo. Due to I believe the same problem. Dirty firing pin. So now I clean the hell out of my free floating firing pins every time I strip down and clean my rifles.
@ammosmith
I did a lot of looking today for federal 215 primers for reloading my 300 ultra mag but i couldnt find any federal primers anywhere.. so what would be a good 2nd best? I have remington magnum primers and i got cci 250 today..
209 shotshell primers are also used in black powders sometimes
What are the cheapest large rifle primers you can get? CCI BR-2 are the cheapest for me in Boise.
That is a rather cavalier answer when related to safety especially of others. Do you have any idea the potential harm that could be caused to firefighters/first responders in the event of a fire at your residence? Have you considered the liability you could carry both civil as well as criminal? You are very knowledgeable and seem to put a high premium on personal safety. IMHO you should give this some thought. This is an excellent example of why house fires are generally the most dangerous...
@Hiei102493 It's pretty loud but not strong enough to detonate anything. I've shot small rifle primers out of a CO2 pistol and they explode upon impact but nothing more than noise.
I only reload my handgun calibers (for now). I couple years ago, I tried out Tula primers. I absolutely love them. They are a major cost savings and reliability is nearly on par with other premium brands. Don't knock'em till you try'em!
Hans S. I like them too but here where im at their the same price as cci, I went to a gun show and paid cheaper but with the cost of getting in and parking it all came out to the same. I like the way they looked on my gold brass they match very cool look to them
MadSativa What are you paying? I buy almost exclusively from Powder Valley. Including shipping and hazmat fees, I paid about $30 per thousand just a few week ago. The thing with them, or any online retailer, is buying in bulk to offset the hazmat fees.
Hans S. for cci and win non magnum smalls I pay 30 for large non magnum I pay 32. Im starting to like the Winchester allot. The tula I got at a gun show for 26, but getting in was 7 and parking was 10 so it wasn't the best I dont go to gun shows here anymore its all inflated prices and the deals are not that great.
MadSativa That's not bad at all. I double checked my numbers and I actually paid about $26. Not sure why I was thinking $30. How long ago were you getting those prices?
Hans S. I can still get them I have to buy 5k at a time
@topper454 Large rifle. It can be either standard or magnum depending on the powder used.
@Jrhoney OUt here it's Wolf primers. They run about $7 cheaper than the CCI or any other brand. They also are as good as the Federal Gold Medal primers and are semi auto safe.
209 primers are also used in some black powder rifles.
Is there any certain temperature you need to store your reloading primers at. I have always been under the impression that as long as they are kept dry, away from any moisture that they were fine as long as they were still in their cardboard containers.
Try decedent with 50 Cal ammo box not in basment
so what would be good for 7.62x54R ammo?
They are both very good primers. If you're shooting a load that takes a large magnum primer the Federal 215 is the hottest.
whats your opinion on CCI primmers ?
I understand the associated risk of slam fires in semi or fully auto platforms. However, unless an individual repeatedly drops the bolt on the same cartridge, it's then that the risk becomes elevated, though still very unlikely.
I have been loading for auto loaders, both handgun and long guns that shoot bottle neck cartridge's. Now if we were referring specifically to FA platforms #34's / #41's to be well served.
I've conducted multiple tests using a number of different actions and chamberings, to date I have been entirely unsuccessful at inducing a slam fire. Using at least a half dozen different AR15 and AR10 platforms, and I've also tested some semi auto's like the Uzi, Tec9 and a few other semi auto platforms.
I've tested standard primers from CCI , Winchester, Federal and Remington. Manually dropping the bolt 20 times on the same cartridge yeilded nothing more than a dinged up primer, but no slam fires in any of the weapons. Even the Federal primers wouldn't slam fire, this actually surprised me actually.
I went on to test magnum primers, they actually did resist denting, in which the dents were significantly more shallow than the standard primers.
Moving on to #34's and #41's, and when comparing them to magnum primers there was no discernible difference in dent depth.
Over all, Federal primers were the softest and Winchester the hardest with Remington and CCI very similar.
The fact that was missing was the metal hardness of the primers. I have some remington primers that are so hard that a double strike is needed sometimes. If I wasn't so cheap I would get rid of them. CCI has a nice primer pocket divot strike on them constantly and that is why I only buy CCI brand. If you buy them compare the divot at the range from time to time with the same rifle. Don't point your rifle at the ground when you rack the bolt and that will help the slam fire.
Primers also vary in hardness depending on date of manufacture as well.
i bought 500 of the cci 41 primers to re load in a bolt action 223, is this ok or should i hold off until i can find some standard small rifle primers
what is the difference between large pistol primers and large pistol MAGNUM primers??
shotgun primers are used in quick draw by drilling out the primerpocket and placing in a shotgun primer then powder then wax bullet!
i'm with wcmay, little overboard on saying a slamfire will destroy your weapon or kill you. i had a slamfire in my ak74 about a week ago using 7n6 surplus, fired 2 rounds in rapid succession of one another. other than the second round going off there is no issue, especially since the second round should end up near the first.
What about large rifle primers,can they be good for .45LC ? I'm not sure I can get pistol primers here in Europe Lithuania...
For .45 LC the primers of choice are LARGE PISTOL. Sice .45 LC is a pistol cartrigde, there's no point using a rifle primer. For me Murom primers do a good job.
How long can primers actually last for? thanks for your video and info.
One trigger pull...
...just kidding. Store them in the proverbial cool dry place and they'll last your lifetime.
@ammosmith
How can you detonate a primer savely, e. g. if you want to use it in a dummy cartridge afterwards?
Hi 😊
I'm in Nigeria, please how can I get W209 primer and where? I mean can I get it online
Cuz it's illegal to own a gun here🤦 but I ended up making one for myself 😃
I'm curious if I'm able to buy lead styphnate or is that even legal because I can't find it anywhere
No. It's classified as a Class A explosive.
Where can I got 12 gauge primers?
As well as gunpowder?
@Hiei102493 It usually opens up the cup and the anvil gets launched. It has a yellow flash it it as well.
ive had my m1 garand slam fire 3 or 4 rounds off once.....was able to shoot it fine with no problems for about 2 years, now its doing it once in a clip or 2....
federal 150 grain soft point "power shok" ammo...i wnat to get a reloading set up...but too expensive to start, might have to switch brands of ammo
No way bro it's not crazy expensive to start up. You can get a kit for $300 on cabelas website
kain hall,
For everyone's safety, please get a professional gunsmith to inspect your Garand and eliminate the hazard of any additional slam fires.
I'm gathering all my paraphernalia so I can start reloading . Does the manual list what primer to use for a particular round ?
Yes, the books do instruct in primers. There's 4 basic for brass, small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, then the magnums, and the 50 BMG. oh, and the shotshell. Do not be tempted to use small rifle for small pistol and such nonsense. Do not use muzzleloading primers for shotshell.
@ammosmith im reloading for my .50 desert eagle and some tell me mag and some dont. some books dont even have the same powders! its annoying! thanks for the fast reply!
When loading .223 for an ar15 do you really need mil primers or are regular small rifle primers OK?
Also my Lee primer manual specifies only cci or winchester primers for safety. which one is better for ar15 use?
CCI primers slide down the primer chute more easily.
I've never heard of a slam fire destroying the weapon before.
To those that asked, a slam fire is when the firing pin rides forward with the bolt and hits the primer hard enough to set it off and fire the round. This is surprising and dangerous because all you might have intended was to close the action after inserting a fresh magazine when the weapon discharges. Appearantly this has caused uncontrolled fully automatic situations, but I've only ever heard of single rounds.
I just loaded my first 15 rounds of .223 last night and chambered one. It has a small dent where the primer was hit but it was really soft so i don't think it will be an issur
37,000 primers! WOW! Nice stock my friend! You wouldn’t be interested in selling me a thousand pack of small pistol primers would you? I would forever be indebted to you! Trying to find them in these crazy times is just that.... CRAZY! I have been waiting and waiting for even a few to be available to reload my 9mm components that I have ready just can’t for the life of me find any. Have a good one and stay safe and well. Keep the vids coming!
I'm keeping them. I can't replace any that I sell.
Ammosmith Reloading I totally understand brother I don’t blame you one bit for that. Take care and keep on with the videos you have some great information for us all!
i have a 40 cal. can i use small pistol magnum primers
what are the primer sizes for 45 acp and 45 long colt
@Mikey1052 I don't keep all my eggs in one basket. I have several locations where I store my ammunition and weapons. I generally keep 12,000 primers on hand. The rest are spread out to my second studio and at places where trusted friends keep them.
Small pistol non magnum. The difference between small and large pistol is the actual size of the primer. Small pistrol.rifle is about .170" in diameter and large rifle/pistol is about .220" in diameter. The power they have vary as well.
At1:55 you were discussing the CCI #34. What is a "slam-fire?" I have never heard that term before. Do non MIL-spec primers "detonate" under light primer strikes? Is that what you were talking about? ... Also, just sub'ed...
Various primers have different cup thicknesses and are made out of different materials. CCI #34's are made to a Nato specification, that is all. No you don't need them, just because you use a semi-auto with a floating firing pin. If you actually do have problems with slam fires then Wolf, Tula, or Sellier and Bellot have a harder thicker cup than the CCI Natos.
The majority of "slam" fires are actually mistakenly called so. Usually a bump fire, or a worn sear allowing the hammer to follow the bolt on occasion. But from the user perspective, they wouldn't know the difference. A true slam fire indicates a problem where your firing pin is either sticking in the forward position, or excessively long (improper fitted aftermarket). None of which are related to the primer, but an actual problem with the firearm that needs to be resolved by a competent gunsmith or armorer.
darwinfoto09 yah I use the tula small rifle just for this they are thicker a heavier metal you can tell when seating the primer a bit more force is needed, Tula used to be cheaper now their not, but the price of those cci primers is like 45 compared to 30 so tula i about 26 for me its tula on 300 blk and 556 ammo.
darwinfoto09 also when checking bullet depth and cycling manually their are times when the primers are sightly dented form the bolt going forward and the pin hitting so it can happen after noticing this a long time ago I always take the pin out when checking things manually like that.
Not really. I have all the stuff but I have been focused on metallic reloading for a very long time. I will be doing videos on shot shell reloading this year though.
How long can you store primers?
can you explain why a primer goes off when struck with force? in other words, what's going inside thta makes this create a spark versus a percussion cap
jason200912 between the compound is the cup and the anvil. When the firing pin strikes the cup it impacts the priming compound against the anvil. Lead styphinate crystals will spark and then react.
i'm reloading 38sp and i'm having problems with the primer coming out when fired and jamming up my revolver what causes this and what i need to do to stop it?
I was having that problem in my 9Major when I had excessive pressure and a compressed powder charge. Also I noticed some of my primer pockets were swollen open. Don't know if this helps, but if it occurs with ALL ammo, not just your reloads, then you may consider a headspace issue. Check for excessive end shake, may be time to add a shim. If it is only reloads, does it occur with a particular lot of brass? Do you have adequate primer seating depth?
Winchester? Had problems with them. Loose pockets. Or loading too hot. Don't reload plated cases. Load my 38 brass to 357 specs all the time with no problem in my GP100.
@@thefirstmissinglink send your nickel-plated brass to me. I'll dispose of them for you😉😆
@@jungleno. most of the nickels have torn split or separated and been sent to recycle.
the .209 can be used in the big bore rifle's like the 8 bore :)
Who reloads 20mm? That I would like to see a video on and the weapon that fires it besides a tank buster.
Look for the video of the Anzio Iron Works 20mm rifle. Would love to own one if just to shut up all the boastful cooler-than-you 50 BMG owners.
Crank driven M61 Vulcan.
One can dream.
Ammosmith Reloading What is the anvil for? Why do berdan primed not need them?
The priming compound is smashed between the cup and the anvil when your firing pin hits. Without the anvil, your firing pin would hit the cup and the priming compound would just flop loose, nothing would happen. Berdain cases have the anvil cut into the case primer pocket, rather than an anvil in the cup.