New to reloading and wonder if its something you should try? Check out this video on questions you should answer before you dive in. ua-cam.com/video/Fkf3Dc7QOfQ/v-deo.html
New to reloading and can’t seem to find and answer on if it matters what case brand you use for loads. Meaning if the data for the round you are reloading calls for hornady brass and you have federal does it matter ? Can you use a different brand than what the load data calls for. Thanks any info would be greatly appreciated
@@chrispryor9721 No difference If you have the right caliber case, you're good to go. Resize then check your trim length if it's bottleneck. If pistol, resize and load. There will always be variance in thickness and weight but not enough to make any difference unless you're trying to put two bullets in one hole.
C M thank you very much. One more question if you don’t mind. If I have a speer .30 caliber 125 grain bullet and have load data for a hornady .30 caliber 125 grain bullet can I load using that data with the speer bullet instead of the hornady bullet ? Thanks
I've been reloading for 25 years and never saved a dime. It's cost me thousands of dollars along with the new guns I've bought. But, I wouldn't trade the experience for anything. It's been fun, sometimes frustrating, and always educational. Reloading is a perfect hobby for guys who like to tinker.
@@twintwo1429 You are the exception to the rule. I agree if you shoot a ton it can save. I just do it for hobby I don't shoot enough to pay for it but I don't care either. I've never messed up 200 rounds though. Once you set it on a Dillon XL650 pretty hard to mess up 9mm. Right now I can make ammo that I cant find like 45 colt and some others that are sold out all the time.
If my wife only knew how much money I'm not saving. Edit: 9 months later and ammo prices are through the roof or not even available. I retract my previous statement. 🙂
@@rebeccaswindall6657 Awww let em have his fun! Besides done right you most certainly can save money. Lots of money if he shoots a lot. It’s an investment to get started but if he shoots a lot and is wise with spending it will be worth it.
@@ThatPNWGuy2024 I don't think you're required to be licensed to sell reloads, I've seen them at a gun show. Just average joe selling a little below retail and giving another option for both common and hard to get calibers. There's also no insurance as far as I'm aware. Also note factory ammo isn't 100% safe either, one of my relatives bought an insanely expensive .22 and it was less than a year old and parts of it blew out the side after very little use, and it was about 8x more expensive than my .22 semi-auto which had about 30,000 rounds on it at the time and functioned flawless. and that's a .22 LR. I don't even know how you can blow one up, its a child's caliber great for teaching little kids safely without the recoil. He only used recommended ammo from the manufacturer and dare I say the only adult man I know that actually read and follows directions to the letter instead of tossing them into the trash, so I know he did everything by the book. Probably don't use reloads from random Joe's in your self defense guns but you can certainly practice with it.
I've been reloading for 55 years. I'm even an NRA certified instructor for reloading both metallic cartridges and shotshells. You hit the nail right on the head for the ten things someone should know before they start reloading! Good job!
I noticed that one of the side effects of being a reloader is that when you come across an old caliber classic rifle it becomes the most exciting thing until you achieve those nice grouping at the range but then with out any warning another weird caliber appears in the horizon and the saga kicks in once again.
@@philipm3173 it sits very nicely between a 22 rim fire magnum and a 223. It makes a nice little bark instead of a 223 crack. 9.6 gr of 2400, 45 gr bullet, 2600 fps. 670 ft lbs. Effective out to 250 yards or so for varmints. Not legal for deer in my state. It also works well with 55 gr cast bullets at 2000 fps. Casting such little bullets consistently has been an issue though😉
I have been loading for 40 years and the ten points presented hear are right on. Reloading is a great hobby but it’s not for everyone. You just have to like to work work with your hands and solving and executing tedious tasks. It sounds boring but it can be exciting. Have fun and be safe.
After a while you just reload for reloading’s sake, lol. Been reloading since the late 70s been through the heartaches, mental breakdowns it invokes and darn near divorced a couple of times. Nowadays it is all for enjoyment, experimentation and proving others wrong. Generally now I use either used brass from factory loads or the worst brass I can find. Papuan brass especially, but high end brass is way too expensive for me to purchase so I use what I can get at the best cost. Getting too old & sore to chasing things through the bush so I now shoot for fun and educational purposes and cost wise, over the years, including all my addons, I think my pocket is better off. Had I sourced topend brass, I wouldn’t have saved anything. Thanks for the vid, enjoy watching them. Cheers from down under. 🇦🇺 👋👋👋
Ive been reloading since 1984 85 so 35 years. Never "saved" money but I have learned a life long hobby that is addictive. My dearest friends reload we bounce ideas back and forth I love it! Thanks for video, God bless
As someone just beginning to hand load, I appreciate your presentation. I have two rules. #1 Life without hobbies is meaningless. #2 Hobbies cost money. I'm looking to reload for precision and not quantity. I will buy accordingly.
I consider myself fortunate. I learned back in the 1980s from my father in law who had been reloading from the 1959s. Also my shooting buddy who had 15 years reloading so I knew what I was getting into. I carried it beyond their teachings working for the most accurate ammo I can make. Primer hole uniformer, neck turner, gauge got measuring from shell to the distance the bullet sits to touch the lands. The most important thing I have learned is take your time. Don’t rush any step during the reloading process.
In my experience reloading a lot of pistol and rifle ammo over a few years now, your advice is spot on. Most of what you covered here is the same advice I gave to a friend who's getting into reloading. Well done.
I reload so I can have ammo to shoot regardless of the supply situation at the time. This requires stocking up when things are plentiful. I'm in no danger of running out ammo for the 10 different calibers I shoot right now. Almost none of this is available at the sporting goods stores currently.
My very 1st reloaded round - Squibbed but it did come out of my barrel, fell at my feet. 2nd one, got about 10 feet from the gun, 3rd one bounced off the paper target. I didn't follow the Bolded Highlighted instructions to CLEAN the Powder measure. Mistake #1... 3000 mistakes and 10's of thousands of rounds later (and about 30 years) I Still have all my fingers, eyes and have YET to blow up any of my guns - So I likely managed to do most of it correctly!
@@brandonfeenstra2035 Personally, I recommend that you disassemble those rounds, clean the powder measure and try again. If you DO attempt to shoot them, be sure to confirm that you do NOT leave a bullet in your barrel. Be aware of sound, flash, and impact on target. Simply put - You just can't be TOO careful! Remember, you are talking about life and body parts!
I've been reloading for 8 years now and you are exatcly right in everything. For me, buying advanced case prepping tools saved me a lot of time on my RCBS. Will send this video to my few shooting friends that are still not reloading.
I have been a plumber for Over 40 years and reloading as long. I have found one important thing. You never stop learning things. I due find it to be relaxing, and a challenge to make my loads the best I can
I just reload for plinking 9mm and .45ACP I find I do shoot way more often when I'm reloading a lot. I also like the fact that when I'm diligent with maintaining my on hand components that I will always have ammunition on hand in times like this crappy Covid 19 induced ammo shortage. Plus the time I spend reloading is just time I would be binge watching something stupid on TV anyway.
Been reloading for 52 years, 30 years as a rifle competitor X-C, now BR VFS and F-Class TR. This is a well done well balanced and straight to the heart of the basics. Well done Sir!
Especially if you learn to cast your own bullets. The .30-30 is very cast bullet friendly. A 190 grain gas checked bullet at 2000 fps or so, is good medicine for anything on the North American continent inside 150 yards and can be done for 30 cents a round even with today's prices. Powder, primers and gas checks are hard to find now, but they're around, it just takes patience and more money than it used to.
When reloaders say you aren't saving money they mean how much money is leaving your bank account...on a per round basis, yes, you save money...even on 9mm...but overall, what you are spending is more, because you end up shooting more as well. I've spent way more money overall since i started reloading than I did before...but i also shoot a lot more now...but yes, on a per cartridge basis it's cheaper...but that doesn't mean anything to the wife. ; )
new reloaders beware: some of the opinions in this (otherwise great) video apply ONLY for long range precision shooting. Do you need high quality brass for dynamic pistol or rifle shooting? No, absolutely not. Take whatever you'll find on the ground. Do you need to trim your brass for pistol? No, not at all. Do you need to trim for rifle, especially for plinking/training ammo for semi auto, like AR-15? Very rarely if ever. Can you save a lot of time and hassle on progressive? Yes, absolutely! Is there a way to process your brass, including trimming and swaging directly on press, on progressive, doing like 2000 cases per hour? Yes! But if you are really, really going for absolute total precision for bolt action, yes, it's time consuming, long and tedious process. So as is told in video - there are multiple ways to achieve results that will be great for you, there are ways how to save a lot of time and yet still get much lower price per round and do it quickly and efficiently. But there is one truth that applies regardless of reloading for precision or amount - you will ultimately not save money, but shoot more. Or shoot same but of much higher quality. Only case where you can save a LOT of money is really reloading for obsolete, no longer made calibers for historic rifles. Yep, there are companies making rounds for these rifles but those usually cost a TON of money. But this, 3rd reason for reloading is another matter that is art by itself.
Yes you DO need to trim pistol brass. 9mm, 45ACP, etc headspace on the case mouth. .38, .357, 45LC, etc crimp the case mouth. In both situations consistent case length is critical to accuracy and reliability.
@@36736fps nonsense. never did so on 9 mm and 45 ACP. I shoot competition and I know nobody trims pistol cases too. Simply wet tumble cases, throw them to casefeeder and reload 1200 per hour. Done. I also rarely trim .223 for training and plinking. Not needed. Both my chambers are 1.850" long (measured by sinclairs tool) so much longer than SAAMI 1.760" spec. It's simply loss of time, at least for pistol.
Jozo99 thank goodness you said it. I couldn’t begin to tabulate how much money I have saved. I load all my own pistol (no trimming) and 223 which saves me a LOT of money. I paid for the machine/accessories in the first year and been buying more guns with the savings ever since. This is no different than-look at my car, house, gun, workshop etc. you can spend a fortune buying top level brass, powder, primers & projectiles. But I choose to buy all those items cheap and get 95% of my brass of the ground. I clicked the video just to see what it was about and after a few minutes realized it’s just another hit counter.
@@nativeokieproud3630 Saved money? not yet. Only been reloading for a couple years (pistol). Ammo shortage? No problem here. But I want to get into reloading for rifle AND am having a problem finding powder locally.
It's not a totality. Pistol cases DO lengthen if you reload them numerous times. I have reloaded the same case 10-15 times before losing it at the range because I use a difficult to find round (even pre- covid). After about 8 reloads the casings can start to bind the mechanism and cause malfunctions in cycling rounds. A quick trim fixes this. I just have a "roll though" gauge made of scrap wood. If they don't roll through I trim. Anyhow, they do stretch and it will cause havoc on reliability if you don't watch that neck length. Atleast in my guns. 😉
I am a retired scientist and handloader since the 60s. I saw some "Herters" cartridge boxes on your shelf. I couldn't have started without mailing orders to Herters in Waseca. My advice is to spend your money on a scale that will put a smile on your face every time you use it. I started with hand dies and still use inexpensive Wilson knock out dies for everyday sizing and seating many cartridges. When I retired, I made sure I left with a couple of dependable laboratory scales, electronic and manual. Expensive electronic scales are more stable than the Frankfort Arsenal version. What I am using now, is Adam MacDonald's trickler with an A.N.D. scale. I call it Adam's kernel counter, because it will register each kernel of powder. Expensive scales will not wander during a loading session. I loaded 34 rounds of .20 BR today. They were sized 60% of the neck with a Wilson sizer. The bullets were seated with a Wilson seater that was reamed by the riflesmith the same time the barrel was reamed. I saw that Co-Ax press on your bench. I bought one in 1972. I am glad they finally upgraded the shellholder so the springs are captured.
I was lucky & started reloading with my dad as a kid back in the 70's & 80's so knew about reloading when I started on my own after I got out of the army. I agree with pretty much everything he said. I would say you can get by fine without a wet tumbler, I've never used one, neither did my dad. Not that I am against wet tumbling, it's just not a MUST do it that way method of cleaning brass.
11C1P - I agree with you! Hav e been loading rifle and handgun loads for 20 years and have NEVER heard or read anything about the dust or use of water to clean shells. I use a shaker from Hornady and they get very clean with no dust when I empty it to separate the shells from the crushed nut shells into greeted spinner. Besides the over $400.00 for my progressive unit you have to buy individual shell plates for each caliber group. Then all the other parts to make everything work together. It does run into quite a bit of money. My big complaint is that periodically they come up with “improvements” that the engineers could have easily made the parts the “new” way from the beginning because it was an obvious fix. I have been saying for a long time it’s like planned obsolescence. And to buy the better replacements are not inexpensive. All of this is my own biased opinion on how it appears to me.
I got a a Lee Progressive and watched all the videos. I bought jacketed .357 bullets and had very few problems. I load 5 and test.They shoot just fine. Don`t make 200 rds. and find out they are no good. Very good video!
One thing I would recommend is getting a copy of any recent Hornady loading manual, not for the load data, but the introductory part before the data section. It will give you a good grounding about the whole process and how to avoid pitfalls by explaining why we do every step.
Make sure your press is solidly mounted (the inline fabrication mounts (shown) are great). If you're in a hurry or getting annoyed, stop. Accept that you will never get all the primers off the floor. Yes, reloading is opinion, as I learned when I bought my second reloading manual. Experiment with your tumbler -- it may not take as long as they say. Be patient -- stuff eventually goes on sale or you may find it used from a guy who changed his mind. Thanks for the video!
This video is very accurate. I use a stackable classifier for rocks for my tumber, works for all sizes of media and dries fast and a cut milk jug for a funnel. I would note to someone new that bullets are like car engines. There is a lot more going on than just an explosion and the tolerances on EVERYTHING matters. Your brass is expanding to your chamber size not just going boom. Resizing brass is what reloading is ALL about.
I would add 1) take notes consistently and organize them in such a way that you will be able to find what you did in the past. 2) never let anybody including yourself talk yourself into doing an extra step that does not give a measurable benefit for you. If your process gets cumbersome you will find excuses just not to do it.
What a fantastic video! Clearly destined to high end precision reloaders, but the concepts are universal. Besides, everyone starts reloading .38 Spl and ends up in 6.5x47 🤣
I watched this a second time 10 months later and further into the ammo shortage that is making ammo prices ridiculous. It's excellent, it's spot on, and Kudos to you for making it! For when I have more time, I will probably reload. And I will buy all the expensive equipment too! Thanks!
There are 2 steps I would tell a new reloader. 1) Get a book that describes the WHOLE process. Read it TWICE. 2) Find someone that already reloads to help you get started. Everything after that will be learning on your own or upgrading. My opinion.
Modern Reloading by Tichard Lee. Onlyproblem with that book is him pating himself on the back. Once you get past that it has some good information. A Facebook reloading group is not a bad idea either.Tons of reloading iformtion on the omputer as well.
All of these are great points. Point 9 is especially valid. When i went ahead and purchased a tumbler, media separator and annealing machine it made the brass prep phase go by like nothing. I can take my dirty used brass and make it almost like new very easily. Brass cleaning and prep is the normally most boring part of reloading and these items make that phase fun.
My Dad has been reloading for years and he is very disciplined about it. He mostly loads 45 colt, 45 acp ,44 mag and 44 spl. 45/70 He loads a box of 50 in those calibers for about 12 to 15 dollars per box. Besides the initial cost of the equipment he uses was his only significant cost. So yes ,you can at least in some calibers save money. You can of course get carried away or load with what i call exotic powders and really save nothing.
I have been reloading rifle ammo since 1992. I agree witn everything you said here. Great video for beginning reloaders. As far as time, I reloaded 20 rounds of 7mm Rem Mag last night. Starting with new brass, it took me nearly 2 hours. As you said, brass prep takes time. That was the majority of the time expended. I have a RCBS Case Prep center that helps.
Your focus is on match grade rifle. Nothing wrong with that as an end goal; but I think it really is a minority of reloaders, and getting up to a much higher level then most people want or need to go. I have 10 more. These are the 10 things I wish someone had told me, before I started reloading. 1. Do not choose a caliber to start reloading that is challenging!!! Often people want to reload something specific so that is what they start with. Many popular calibers are very challenging. 40sw, 357sig, 223/5.56 , 7mil, 5.7mil are especially challenging. 9mil, 45ACP, .308 and 45LC each have some quirks also, not especially challenging, but not easy. Buying a set of dies you might not use enough to justify, is justified by not setting yourself up for failure by trying to learn on a caliber that is especially challenging. 2. Start reloading a caliber that is NOT challenging. This would be preferably something rimmed, with medium thick brass, and no or a mild shoulder. Preferably between 35 and 45 caliber. .357 and 44special would be my top recomendations. 3. Don't try to start out with the very best or the very cheapest equipment. With some experience you can figure out better what you need, but the very cheapest equipment is often more challenging to use. Hornady, Lyman and RCBS all sell good basic kits, with most of the basic tools. Anything less expensive in my experience is a bit more challenging to use. 4. Get a good electronic scale. Balance scales are a challenge to learn in themselves, and they are slow and time consuming. 5. Get some basic organization accessories, case blocks and cartridge boxes. This stuff is not expensive, and simplicity in organization helps much starting out. 6. Do not try to combine steps starting out. Check and recheck your work each step, each batch and every step. Especially powder charges. 7. Start your first session with New reloading brass, like 100peices. Factory new pristine, never fired brass. No point in dealing with all the learning on brass cleaning and preperations and buying all the equipment for it until you make at least a couple boxes. Hornady reloading brass is my recommendation. Second would be Remington. Then Starline or Winchester. And even though it is new inspect it and resize it, just like you will with fired brass. 8. Get a hand primer to start out rather then starting learning priming on a press. It is much easier starting out and this is not a large expense. Much more feel and control with a hand primer and easier to learn. 9. If your kit did not come with one, get a bullet puller, you will likely need it before you have loaded up your first box. And it looks like a hammer, but do not swing it like your are trying to drive nails. 10. Contaminated powder is a nightmare. Clean your new powder measure internals from dirt, dust, and especially ANY and ALL oil or grease it was packed in. Metal parts will have oil on them coming out of the box. Use only a clean lint free towel! No solvent, no soap, no water, nothing but the towel. Use as long as it takes. Then set up and fill the powder measure up about 20% with the powder. Now ensuring you are holding the cap on with one hand and both hands on the measure, gently swirl the powder around in the reservoir and slowly invert it a couple dozen times. Now empty this power from the measure into a disposable container and dispose of it. Mount your measure and refill to about 20% again and practice setting your powder measure and adjusting it with this powder, and pour out this powder into a clean disposable container. Run out this powder and dispose of it. Then refill your powder measure to about 75%. As you are reloading, refill it back to about 75% when it gets down to like 20%. These machines generally throw most consistently when in the middle range. Should only have to do this once, ever, but it is very important. Bonus, do not try to learn with cast bullets. There are additional challenges and lessons to learn with reloading cast bullets. Begin with TMJ or FMJ bullets. For TMJ my recommendation is Rainer Ballistics or Hornady HAP. Zero TMJ are marginal ok, all others I have tried were reallly bad.
#8 TRUTH!!! My non reloading friends never understand why I laugh and scoff at all of the progressive reloading videos. Just get a progressive they say. "If I were to reload, I wouldn't waste my time with a single stage!" Great video man.
This is the first time for me to see your channel. I'm not sure how this video popped into my recommendation list, but the topic caught my eye. I have been reloading for a very long time. I'm pushing 43 years of doing it. When I started out it was with LEE hand die sets. Boy those were the days. I remember when the RCBS ROCK CHUCKER first hit the town I lived in. Still single stage, but it did make seating rifle rounds and crimping easier. I'm not in agreement that it costs more to reload than to buy factory ammo. When I was really into shooting USPSA I was running 1,000 rounds a week through my pistols. I could load 1,000 rounds in about an hour and a half once I got the primer tubes filled. That was the tedious part. That 4,000 rounds a month cost less to reload than buying 500 rounds of factory ammo. If I dig through all the notebooks I kept I can give you an exact price for each round of every type of ammo I reload for. Today I load mostly 9mm, 10mm, 45acp, and 9mm Major for pistol ammo. Rifle I load 5.56 NATO, 7.62 NATO, 6.8 Rem SPC2, 300WM, 50 BMG, 416 Barrett, and my son loads a lot of 338 Norma. I load 556 and 762 by the 5 gallon bucket for practice and classes. I also load precision for both, and I can not buy any of it for anywhere near the price it costs to load it. It am in AGREEMENT that reloading is expensive to START UP. I also agree in buying the BEST BRASS you can, IF you are going to be able to recover it. I bought so much Lake City 556 and 762 brass back in the 90s that I still have a few hundred pounds of each that are still in the containers they were shipped in. I have 3 Dillon 650s, a 1050, and 6 Single stage RCBS units, plus a Dillon for shotshells. There is a lot of money tied up in presses, dies, and other stuff. For anyone thinking about getting into reloading, it is time consuming. If you are loading plinking ammo, you can crank it out fast once you have the proper setup. That is time consuming. Loading 10 rounds, then changing the powder charge 1/10th of a grain. A CHRONOGRAPH IS DEFINITELY A MUST HAVE ITEM. A range close by is great as well. My test range is 75 feet from my reloading shed. The reason I use Dillon pressed is the warranty. If I can get something I need from Dillon , that us where I get it. They are also very helpful and customer service is a priority.
Thank you for sharing. I was thinking about starting reloading, but after seeing your video I realized right now wouldn’t be a good time for me to get into this hobby. You saved me some money
I completely agree about managing bullet jump, and that dollar savings of reloading come only when you shoot a lot, but now that my 20-year-old RCBS Rock Chucker has produced over thousands of pistol and rifle rounds, and my basic kit has paid for itself many times over! But I consider reloading to be 'quality time'. To be at peace, preparing for the fun of shooting, and discovering how to control THIS new hidden variable I hadn't realized could mess up my accuracy. Still learning at 68! As to your #10 (buy good brass) I agree in principle - some brands are superb out of the box. But I believe that the primary benefits of more expensive brass are mostly consistency of weight, and (secondarily) concentric case necks. Even the cheapest brass, selected for weight, gives excellent results, especially when its necks are relatively thin and don't interfere with bullet alignment during chambering. When I size and trim my brass, sort by specific headstamp, weight sorting gives me amazing results (single digit SD, mid-teens ES) with even the cheapest (like, FREE!) US major manufacturer brass. Some kind donors at my range over the past several years have 'donated' several hundred each of once-fired Federal ("FC 223 REM") and Lake City (NATO symbol plus "LC YY" with YY for the year of production) headstamps. (Yes, I have to ream out the primer crimps, but 0 cents beats, what, over a buck for Lapua?) I've sorted the LC and FC into groups of 100 and 50 that are all within 0.8 grain of the same weight after sizing and trimming. When all the brass in my production lot is within 0.8 grain, that means its powder capacity is within a tenth of a grain for any ball or stick powder, and that is a HUGE reducer in muzzle velocity variation, especially as I get close to 100% fill. (If you are holding your powder charge within 0.1 gn, but your case capacities vary by 0.3 gn, you CANNOT get tight control of muzzle velocity!) I'd add a #11 - if you are going for accuracy at 300+ yards, the best $50-75 you can spend is to buy a match-quality die set. I have a whole stack of "starter marriage" die sets that I bought "just to get into this caliber", before realizing I liked it, and the cheap die set just was holding me back. There's no place in shooting where the difference between $30 and $80 for "the same" equipment shows more dramatically! And that's $50-$75, spent ONCE, no matte how many hundreds or thousands of rounds you shoot!
I completely agree with #11 if you are reloading rifle cartridges for accuracy. Finding the Forster Bench Rest Seater was the single best discovery I made in my ongoing reloading experiments. RCBS now makes seating does with the same mechanism. Actually, Lyman’s M expander dies for pistol cartridges might be #2 on my great discovery list. I don’t hand load to save money. I hand load to add another aspect to the fun of shooting. Also, I love the methodical, scientific process of developing the most accurate load for a specific firearm. Finally, I can develop loads that just aren’t made commercially such as an accurate but low recoil .45 ACP that works well in multiple handguns. In that context, putting together die sets that work best for me given my experience makes sense.
Well done, the initial $$ for the press you choose and the various other equipment can add up to the investment. BUT! It is a life time investment and will last for YEARS and over that time and number of shells you reload the cost per shell goes down. I started out with basic shotgun press and moved to metallic with a RCBS Rock Chucker, which still works (adapted the Hornady Lock N Load die quick change). Moved to a progressive by Dillon to Reload more pistol rounds iwhich I can reload 400 rounds in 1-1.5 hours and more practice. DO NOT use reloads if you CCW, could be used against you should you need for self defense. But good video going over reloading..
Wow, what a wonderful video. I do load 9mm, lol, but I'm 72 years old and what else am I going to do. Years ago, when I started reloading, I bought my tools as I needed them. Not really anything unnecessary. I used a dry tumbler, getting ready to switch to wet. Thank you for a tremendously informative video. Whenever someone say's to me, I'm going to start reloading, they're getting this video. You now have a new subscriber. By the way, you gave me the final push to buy, or make a wet tumbler.
only reason i started reloading is because i can save money. Im making 9mm right now on a Lee loadmaster progressive press for $0.15/rnd. I buy the powder, primers, and bullets.
Subscribed. About once a year I work up some rounds. Recently bought a 30-06 that is giving me terrible accuracy. I stumbled here for a refresher since I can’t sleep tonight.
When you start reloading 50BMG match ammo, everything comes to play. The most expansive ammo I ever made was about $5-7 per round and I had to apply every single step in reloading process, such as case trimming, primer pocket reaming, annealing, etc.
I've been an avid reloader since 1970 and was fortunate to have a veteran reloader to learn from in the beginning. If I had all the money I've spent on reloading equipment, oh my word. I'm not sure if shooting means more to me than reloading but it's close. Good vid.
I'd refer you to his first statement. Everyone thinks they'll save money, but they hardly ever do, unless its to reload some really rare cartridge. if you can get the ammo for less than a buck a round for rifle cartridges, you probably wont save money.
I reload 38spl 125gr tc/fp hardcast cost me $5.50 a box versus $16.20 a factory box. 357 mag 125gr xtp hunting & self defense loads 50 rounds cost me $13.70, versus American gunner 20 rounds at $22.89. Also, 45colt 200gr hardcast rnfp cost me $6.90 versus on line best sale price purchase of $24.50. Simple math tells me in the last few years, and the years to come, I will save hundreds and more hundreds of dollars because I reload. Oh, and because my shell casings never fall to the ground, I have never cleaned my brass and never will clean my brass. In a carbide die the tarnish acts as a natural case lube= easy and smooth reloading.
@@ironbunny4121 "...if you can get the ammo for less than a buck a round for rifle cartridges, you probably won't save money." 2020: *Am I a joke to you?*
I started reloading to save money, but I ended up spending more money. However, I could not get the accuracy and consistency I get from mass produced ammunition. Like putting 80 rounds in roughly a 4 in. group, at 100, 150 and 200 yards. The scope's elevation adjustment malfunctioned. I got rooked by a person I thought was a friend, but the groups were amazing, just not quite on the point of aim. It took me 80 rounds at three distances to figure it out. I lost a friend that day, but I kept that load and still use it. All that may be a bit much for hunting, but getting it right before you go into the field eliminates one more thing that could go wrong. I started with less expensive and gradually moved to higher quality, and quality costs. Loved your video and keep them coming.
Great and valuable video. I’ve been reloading for 15yrs and I agree with everything you said. I would add, the dangers of reloading for other people. Well done.
Absolutely spot on! Find a buddy/mentor and others interested in reloading. Powders and projectiles are swappable items. You can trade partial pounds or boxes for something else you want to try. We all have a shelf or two of stuff that didn't work us but might work for you. We also have tools to try before you buy. Don't forget Starline in the good brass category, especially for pistol.
I agree with you, teaming up is a great way to split expenses. And that's been my advice to new shooters who want to cut costs. Powder, primers, bullets are easily divided and swapped. Some (older) gunshops will even sell or resell partial boxes of bullets.
I got into reloading about 10 years ago. It's time consuming, expensive(especially getting started) but I love it. I get my mind set on what I'm doing and forget my problems for a while, it's pretty cool customizing a round for your rifle. Nice video, really enjoyed it. 👍👍
Reloading is a passion. It not just to replace the ammo you have spent, but improving it to where it is custom Tailored to your firearm to make it the most accurate possible. It not just going through the steps but time spent at the range to see what small differences you have made to each session of reloading to see if it improves accuracy. The goal for me is to be able to put 10 rounds through the same hole. It what bullet, what powder, what primer you need to make the perfect round
All good advice (I give them to others all the time). I'll add one, "reloading is a hobby in itself". Any other way, and you might loose interest, since these days factory quality ammo is quite good.
Grest info! Having a crono is a good investment. I picked up a new lee 50th anniversary kit for $120.00. A 6" caliper $35. Hammer bullet puller $20. $175 total. Powder, primers and projectiles (had brass),$195.00. $370 total. All works great, cost me $35 more than buying factory, and now I have all the gear. Much fun.....
I bought my first reloader after being a Marine Capt in LA during rodney king riots,,,,, I NOW save money,,, I purchased several estates with reloading equipment, that the people really thought was just a bunch of junk. I gave them what they asked,, never argued, since their father/grandfather etc had died. I did very well,, and NO you cannot do that anymore,,, all good deals are gone. After many many years of reloading, I have found hitting the target, grouping, etc,, all amateur considerations. I believe,,, that the BEST RELOADER can find all his brass,, after shooting a magazine,,, within a 3ft circle,,, THAT is the best reloader on the line.
Happy to see you making so much content! A few of my favorite reloading channels aren't making much these days. Johnny's Reloading Bench hasn't uploaded anything in about 3 months! Hopefully he's ok.
@@PC-vq5ud Ordinarily I would agree, but it doesn't take 30 seconds to get on any of his social media accounts and say something to everyone who's still subscribed. That's what is odd. Nothing on any platform.
Great article, I started reloading in 1981 because it was cheap you could load 100 rounds for peanuts...... well those days are gone !! But today quality and precision are outstanding. Reloading a hobby or an addiction, I'm not sure, but it sure makes you smile !!!!
I started reloading in '84, when I bought a .44mag Ruger. My entire reloading kit, fit in a shoebox, that I would take to work, and reload in my down time, as a firefighter. I've picked up quite a bit of equipment, over the years. I always espoused the idea that the government can't take your guns, due to the 2nd Amendment, but they can starve you for ammo. And you know what a rifle is called, with no ammo? An expensive club. 😄
Al Henning you are Spot On! I've been saying this for years! The 2nd amendment doesn't say anything about ammo. Comedian Chris Rock even had a routine about it years ago. He said, give 'em all the guns they want...just don't give 'em any bullets. Or make the bullets really expensive so if someone kills you it'll be like dang they must have really wanted you dead!
Then again, you'd be surprised to find that in many wars, battles and military actions, the side that lost a shooting engagement only did so because they ran out of bullets before the enemy ran out of bodies. Ironic that it was my old political science teacher who pointed that out.
As below - I started with a Lyman 46 Ed, in the 70s. I spent the winter reading it over. In the spring, when I was out of school, the first thing I grabbed was a Lee Hand loader - in the caliber I had. All I needed has a hammer. I bought primers by the 100 and learned what I liked. I loaded and fired 313 cartridges - over the course of one # of powder. Large rifle magnum CCI - I grabbed 5k of them that fall. I live north, so getting powder lit, well it worked for me. I only point this out as having almost 1000 shots, in my first summer and winter shooting meant that I knew what I needed and what I could fudge. Knowing what I know now - I would have gone Blue D progressive. However - Each fall and spring I load all the brass - many times in differing calibers, but Eh - 1500 rds takes some planning. I started on 303Br and 44 M. 43 yrs later I still load them, plus a couple others. Cheers!
Primers are even harder to find, loads of bullet designs are discontinued or pricier now. Finding ammo is a pain, but I worry that the costs saved by reloading at this point in time will get worse fast if primers don't become available any time soon.
@@dinstaar I just bought some small rifle primers today at Brownells. Not exactly the price I wanted to spend and the hazmat fee sucks...but you do what you gotta do.
@@dinstaar I thought about waiting as well, but as this craziness has gone on, i'm becoming more unsure of how long that wait will be. I don't recommend stockpiling at these prices but if you need some stuff, you gotta get it when you can....and I'm not even convinced when this stuff does come back that we'll ever see the $40 per 1000 for primers we saw before...as much as I hate the term...what is going to be the "new normal" price and even when is that going to be? I have no idea....
Well done video with great advice ! I have recently started reloading on a single stage press for competitive pistol shooting. It is slow and tedious but I have been very satisfied with the results. I have been given some great advice by fellow shooters but I have also been given some not so good advice. With my limited experience I have found that you can load good ammo without spending a fortune but you have to willing to take the time and go much slower. I am confident with what I have learned through each step of the process and I am glad I didn't jump right in with a progressive as many of my friends suggested. There is so much equipment that you need regardless of whether your single stage or progressive that the cost of the press is only part of the equation.
Even with the level of experience that I have, (a lot), I have still never moved beyond a single stage press. I can meet my needs with it, and I just like handling the cartridge at every step of the way.
Sako and Nosler brass are just as good as any on the market! Happy you put together your 10 ideas for new re-loaders. Accuracy is determined by more than just reloading. For hunting most of what you recommend is not necessary. Get a Nosler rifle and Nosler ammo and you are well under 1 MOA, same can be said for SAKO. Thousand of dollars saved. Target shooters are a waste of resources, but, if its your thing, go ahead, waste your money and or save it by spending big in the first place? Anyhow, I do agree with all you have pointed out. To sum it up, just buy a good rifle and good ammo and hunt for food!
Excellent, direct and to the point. I couldn’t agree more to everything you said. When I first started down the metallic reloading, 6 years ago, I was privileged to hook up with a guy who has been reloading for 40 years. I’ve been reloading shotgun shells for 18 years but I still consider myself new to metallic reloading, yes even after 6 years under my belt. I just started reloading 30-06 Springfield for my M1 Garand and we talked back and forth for almost a week before I came up with a load to start with. Wow so thankful to have this knowledge available to me. FIND A MENTOR.
The older guys at the range, and some of the younger ones, are a motherlode of experience and advice. Learn from their experience as well as your own. This is usually easy, as most of them like to talk as much as they like to load and shoot.
When components got scarce, I had about a dozen rifles that were just a pile of parts.Instead of reloading, I now have several rifle up and running -- money is still a factor, but post-Biden, those guns are becoming valuable. Best of luck!
@@Duke_of_Prunes you can make matchhead primers really easily out of reused fired primers in case of primer shortages just search around on youtube just know it’s a corrosive primer
Pfft... To get started in reloading you need: 1. Buy kit (Anniversary ($148 on Amazon) or Challenger kit) from Lee Precision. Just single stage, breech lock. 2. Buy die set (carbide 3 or 4-die set, for the caliber you reloading. Tons of them on Amazon for $30-$50 ). 3. Buy electronic scale to measure powder. The manual scale from kit will work fine, but electronic is faster. Frankford - $28 at Amazon. 4. Buy electronic calipers to measure case length. This is important. Around $25. 5. Buy case trimmer $7) and case length gauge with shell holder. $7. All above equipment will cost you around $250-$350. 6. Start reloading!(I assume you already have brass, projectiles, primers, powder, did your research on how much you need to put powder in a casing, watch UA-cam videos how to reload.) 7. Optional: Casing prep kit. I live in Hawaii and a round of .223 cost around $1. I reload for $0.25. So it SAVES me money. Don't be discouraged. It is exciting hobby.
I torment myself often with top lists, but darn, you killed it. #8 esp. Literally don't reload rifle, unless you're a brass masochist and can wait a year to actually reload ammo. ITs a never ending task and in volume, like 223, seemingly endless for the kapow moments you toss quarters downrange/into the trash.
An interesting mix of perfect spot on advice and a few things I wouldn't recommend due to either a rabbithole of nonsense or the practicality of performance vs time vs cost. Still gave her a thumbs up and appreciate your opinions.
One tip : try not to save space for your reloading setup. If possible try to have a spacious setup , where every tool has its own place. It’s so frustrating to have to reload in a tiny space , with all of your tools and equipment being in each other’s way.
Many people speak of their loading bench. I am fortunate enough to have an entire "playroom", and even then, brass storage has spilled into the garage. Space is good.
Yep. Not a lot to be saved by doing this. But when it works it's great. Just bought a Lyman case prep centre. So good. Good brass is good for the range. When out shooting ferals from vehicles, Cheap brass is good as you dont cry when you lose it over the side.
Started reloading back in the 70s. Have had access to all the free brass I want from our local range. So I have been reloading for decades to stockpile ammo. And more recently compete in PRS, able to fine tune my loads.
Been using the Forester single stage press & it's quality equipment. Along with the Frankfort wet tumbler, a strong magnet takes care of finding all the pins. Reloading does take a ton of time but for me the process is well worth the effort.
Excellent! Also use the same brass (don't mix Federal, Remington, Peterson, Lapua, Nozler brass). When I started reloading 40 years ago I save my factory brass which were mixed (Nozler, Federal, Winchester). Reloading can occasionally save money for some cartridges, for example here in Alaska the cheapest factory 300 H & H is over $75 per box in Fairbanks and more than that due to shipping if ordered over the web.
New to reloading and wonder if its something you should try? Check out this video on questions you should answer before you dive in. ua-cam.com/video/Fkf3Dc7QOfQ/v-deo.html
Good content, and would like to congratulate you on being one of the 250 people in the US that know the correct pronunciation of Lapua.
Thank you for your video, I love your no nonsense and concise delivery, I learned more from just one of your videos than a did from 10 other's.
New to reloading and can’t seem to find and answer on if it matters what case brand you use for loads. Meaning if the data for the round you are reloading calls for hornady brass and you have federal does it matter ? Can you use a different brand than what the load data calls for. Thanks any info would be greatly appreciated
@@chrispryor9721
No difference
If you have the right caliber case, you're good to go. Resize then check your trim length if it's bottleneck. If pistol, resize and load.
There will always be variance in thickness and weight but not enough to make any difference unless you're trying to put two bullets in one hole.
C M thank you very much. One more question if you don’t mind. If I have a speer .30 caliber 125 grain bullet and have load data for a hornady .30 caliber 125 grain bullet can I load using that data with the speer bullet instead of the hornady bullet ? Thanks
Been reloading for almost 35 years, and my wife's favorite joke is that she thinks I go shooting just so I have something to reload.
I used to be that way but now it's more of a chore.
HA-HA! That is one of my reasons! gotta love it!
I've been reloading for 25 years and never saved a dime. It's cost me thousands of dollars along with the new guns I've bought. But, I wouldn't trade the experience for anything. It's been fun, sometimes frustrating, and always educational. Reloading is a perfect hobby for guys who like to tinker.
And a little luck goes a long way :D
Couldn't agree more
And the ladies who like to tinker! There are a few of us out here! 😁😉😊
I second that. I've not saved either. Don't get into it for the cost savings.
@@twintwo1429 You are the exception to the rule. I agree if you shoot a ton it can save. I just do it for hobby I don't shoot enough to pay for it but I don't care either. I've never messed up 200 rounds though. Once you set it on a Dillon XL650 pretty hard to mess up 9mm. Right now I can make ammo that I cant find like 45 colt and some others that are sold out all the time.
"If I can buy a box for $10..."
Ah, the good old days....
Lol... right?
I was just thinking the same thing! Especially considering I just got 'excited' to buy 9mm for 61¢ a round 😭
@@SirOtterman you just convinced someone to sell 9mm for 65 cents a round. Thanks.
@@phild8095 well 2 months later and AmmoSeek has 9MM at 52-54 cents per round so it looks like were moving the right direction
@@epass8180 there is only so much room that most people can fill with ammo they will use in 2025. Now for the primers to come back on the shelves.
If my wife only knew how much money I'm not saving.
Edit: 9 months later and ammo prices are through the roof or not even available. I retract my previous statement. 🙂
As a wife this comment helped me change my mind lol
@@rebeccaswindall6657 Awww let em have his fun! Besides done right you most certainly can save money. Lots of money if he shoots a lot. It’s an investment to get started but if he shoots a lot and is wise with spending it will be worth it.
Now you can make a killing on selling reloads to pay for everything and then some!
@@jakegarrett8109 licensing and insurance would probably beg to differ sadly.
@@ThatPNWGuy2024 I don't think you're required to be licensed to sell reloads, I've seen them at a gun show. Just average joe selling a little below retail and giving another option for both common and hard to get calibers. There's also no insurance as far as I'm aware.
Also note factory ammo isn't 100% safe either, one of my relatives bought an insanely expensive .22 and it was less than a year old and parts of it blew out the side after very little use, and it was about 8x more expensive than my .22 semi-auto which had about 30,000 rounds on it at the time and functioned flawless. and that's a .22 LR. I don't even know how you can blow one up, its a child's caliber great for teaching little kids safely without the recoil. He only used recommended ammo from the manufacturer and dare I say the only adult man I know that actually read and follows directions to the letter instead of tossing them into the trash, so I know he did everything by the book.
Probably don't use reloads from random Joe's in your self defense guns but you can certainly practice with it.
I find reloading to be therapeutic in this crazy world.
Everything but case prep. I hate case prep. I think it’s time for a Giraud, lol.
Yes ,nothing takes your mind and makes you forget problems like reloading. Great pass time if you are married to a, well you get the point.
Agreed
I started reloading so I could shoot more now i shoot more so I can reload more
Lol I know what you mean
Amen brother...
It's a vicious cycle
Same here bro.
That was me 5 years ago. Now I despise reloading. But I still do it lol
I've been reloading for 55 years. I'm even an NRA certified instructor for reloading both metallic cartridges and shotshells. You hit the nail right on the head for the ten things someone should know before they start reloading! Good job!
I noticed that one of the side effects of being a reloader is that when you come across an old caliber classic rifle it becomes the most exciting thing until you achieve those nice grouping at the range but then with out any warning another weird caliber appears in the horizon and the saga kicks in once again.
Bought something, then remembering you already have one. Is that old age, or just the saying "you can't own too many."
Guilty.
30-40 Krag.
22 Hornet.
41 Magnum.
257 Roberts.
Then I wandered off into casting bullets too.
@@mikespangler98 what was 22 hornet like?
@@philipm3173 it sits very nicely between a 22 rim fire magnum and a 223. It makes a nice little bark instead of a 223 crack. 9.6 gr of 2400, 45 gr bullet, 2600 fps. 670 ft lbs. Effective out to 250 yards or so for varmints. Not legal for deer in my state.
It also works well with 55 gr cast bullets at 2000 fps. Casting such little bullets consistently has been an issue though😉
@@mikespangler98 .22 hornet is a great one to reload. Such a fine line between perfect and overloaded.
I have been loading for 40 years and the ten points presented hear are right on. Reloading is a great hobby but it’s not for everyone. You just have to like to work work with your hands and solving and executing tedious tasks. It sounds boring but it can be exciting. Have fun and be safe.
I've been reloading for years and I should start saving money any day now.
Possibly start selling them?
My first hundred rounds that I reloaded Cost me about $5.00 each. Now the only measurable costs are what I pay for primers, Powder and projectiles.
Hahaha classic Randall Jones joke.
After a while you just reload for reloading’s sake, lol. Been reloading since the late 70s been through the heartaches, mental breakdowns it invokes and darn near divorced a couple of times. Nowadays it is all for enjoyment, experimentation and proving others wrong. Generally now I use either used brass from factory loads or the worst brass I can find. Papuan brass especially, but high end brass is way too expensive for me to purchase so I use what I can get at the best cost. Getting too old & sore to chasing things through the bush so I now shoot for fun and educational purposes and cost wise, over the years, including all my addons, I think my pocket is better off. Had I sourced topend brass, I wouldn’t have saved anything.
Thanks for the vid, enjoy watching them.
Cheers from down under. 🇦🇺 👋👋👋
I didn't notice that, 🤣🤣.
Thanks.
No use changing it now, 🤣🤣
I been reloading for57 years now and I agree with everything you said.
Ive been reloading since 1984 85 so 35 years. Never "saved" money but I have learned a life long hobby that is addictive. My dearest friends reload we bounce ideas back and forth I love it! Thanks for video, God bless
Yes, addictive...I forgot to add that one in my own initial reply.
Oddly enough I enjoy the process of reloading more than shooting these days. I find it relaxing.
As someone just beginning to hand load, I appreciate your presentation. I have two rules. #1 Life without hobbies is meaningless. #2 Hobbies cost money. I'm looking to reload for precision and not quantity. I will buy accordingly.
Well said!
Agree
I started reloading a few years ago to make obsolete cartridges. It’s really rewarding when you bring those old 19th century rifles to life
I consider myself fortunate. I learned back in the 1980s from my father in law who had been reloading from the 1959s. Also my shooting buddy who had 15 years reloading so I knew what I was getting into. I carried it beyond their teachings working for the most accurate ammo I can make. Primer hole uniformer, neck turner, gauge got measuring from shell to the distance the bullet sits to touch the lands. The most important thing I have learned is take your time. Don’t rush any step during the reloading process.
In my experience reloading a lot of pistol and rifle ammo over a few years now, your advice is spot on. Most of what you covered here is the same advice I gave to a friend who's getting into reloading. Well done.
I reload so I can have ammo to shoot regardless of the supply situation at the time. This requires stocking up when things are plentiful. I'm in no danger of running out ammo for the 10 different calibers I shoot right now. Almost none of this is available at the sporting goods stores currently.
Primers?
My very 1st reloaded round - Squibbed but it did come out of my barrel, fell at my feet. 2nd one, got about 10 feet from the gun, 3rd one bounced off the paper target. I didn't follow the Bolded Highlighted instructions to CLEAN the Powder measure. Mistake #1...
3000 mistakes and 10's of thousands of rounds later (and about 30 years) I Still have all my fingers, eyes and have YET to blow up any of my guns - So I likely managed to do most of it correctly!
Well shit I just reloaded last night for the first time and I didn’t clean the powder measurer. Am I fucked?
@@brandonfeenstra2035 Personally, I recommend that you disassemble those rounds, clean the powder measure and try again. If you DO attempt to shoot them, be sure to confirm that you do NOT leave a bullet in your barrel. Be aware of sound, flash, and impact on target.
Simply put - You just can't be TOO careful! Remember, you are talking about life and body parts!
I've been reloading for 8 years now and you are exatcly right in everything. For me, buying advanced case prepping tools saved me a lot of time on my RCBS. Will send this video to my few shooting friends that are still not reloading.
I have been a plumber for Over 40 years and reloading as long. I have found one important thing. You never stop learning things. I due find it to be relaxing, and a challenge to make my loads the best I can
I just reload for plinking 9mm and .45ACP I find I do shoot way more often when I'm reloading a lot. I also like the fact that when I'm diligent with maintaining my on hand components that I will always have ammunition on hand in times like this crappy Covid 19 induced ammo shortage. Plus the time I spend reloading is just time I would be binge watching something stupid on TV anyway.
Been reloading for 52 years, 30 years as a rifle competitor X-C, now BR VFS and F-Class TR. This is a well done well balanced and straight to the heart of the basics. Well done Sir!
Thank you!
Idk, with 30-30 impossible to find in 2020 and when you do it's $3/rnd for the worst ammo, I think reloading does save money.
Especially if you learn to cast your own bullets. The .30-30 is very cast bullet friendly. A 190 grain gas checked bullet at 2000 fps or so, is good medicine for anything on the North American continent inside 150 yards and can be done for 30 cents a round even with today's prices. Powder, primers and gas checks are hard to find now, but they're around, it just takes patience and more money than it used to.
When reloaders say you aren't saving money they mean how much money is leaving your bank account...on a per round basis, yes, you save money...even on 9mm...but overall, what you are spending is more, because you end up shooting more as well. I've spent way more money overall since i started reloading than I did before...but i also shoot a lot more now...but yes, on a per cartridge basis it's cheaper...but that doesn't mean anything to the wife. ; )
I’ve been reloading for a few years. I use the Gerard trimmer and tumble with SS and it’s SO true! This video is dead on!!
new reloaders beware: some of the opinions in this (otherwise great) video apply ONLY for long range precision shooting.
Do you need high quality brass for dynamic pistol or rifle shooting? No, absolutely not. Take whatever you'll find on the ground.
Do you need to trim your brass for pistol? No, not at all. Do you need to trim for rifle, especially for plinking/training ammo for semi auto, like AR-15? Very rarely if ever.
Can you save a lot of time and hassle on progressive? Yes, absolutely! Is there a way to process your brass, including trimming and swaging directly on press, on progressive, doing like 2000 cases per hour? Yes!
But if you are really, really going for absolute total precision for bolt action, yes, it's time consuming, long and tedious process.
So as is told in video - there are multiple ways to achieve results that will be great for you, there are ways how to save a lot of time and yet still get much lower price per round and do it quickly and efficiently.
But there is one truth that applies regardless of reloading for precision or amount - you will ultimately not save money, but shoot more. Or shoot same but of much higher quality. Only case where you can save a LOT of money is really reloading for obsolete, no longer made calibers for historic rifles. Yep, there are companies making rounds for these rifles but those usually cost a TON of money. But this, 3rd reason for reloading is another matter that is art by itself.
Yes you DO need to trim pistol brass. 9mm, 45ACP, etc headspace on the case mouth. .38, .357, 45LC, etc crimp the case mouth. In both situations consistent case length is critical to accuracy and reliability.
@@36736fps nonsense. never did so on 9 mm and 45 ACP. I shoot competition and I know nobody trims pistol cases too. Simply wet tumble cases, throw them to casefeeder and reload 1200 per hour. Done. I also rarely trim .223 for training and plinking. Not needed. Both my chambers are 1.850" long (measured by sinclairs tool) so much longer than SAAMI 1.760" spec.
It's simply loss of time, at least for pistol.
Jozo99 thank goodness you said it. I couldn’t begin to tabulate how much money I have saved. I load all my own pistol (no trimming) and 223 which saves me a LOT of money. I paid for the machine/accessories in the first year and been buying more guns with the savings ever since. This is no different than-look at my car, house, gun, workshop etc. you can spend a fortune buying top level brass, powder, primers & projectiles. But I choose to buy all those items cheap and get 95% of my brass of the ground. I clicked the video just to see what it was about and after a few minutes realized it’s just another hit counter.
@@nativeokieproud3630 Saved money? not yet. Only been reloading for a couple years (pistol). Ammo shortage? No problem here. But I want to get into reloading for rifle AND am having a problem finding powder locally.
It's not a totality. Pistol cases DO lengthen if you reload them numerous times. I have reloaded the same case 10-15 times before losing it at the range because I use a difficult to find round (even pre- covid). After about 8 reloads the casings can start to bind the mechanism and cause malfunctions in cycling rounds. A quick trim fixes this. I just have a "roll though" gauge made of scrap wood. If they don't roll through I trim. Anyhow, they do stretch and it will cause havoc on reliability if you don't watch that neck length. Atleast in my guns. 😉
I am a retired scientist and handloader since the 60s. I saw some "Herters" cartridge boxes on your shelf. I couldn't have started without mailing orders to Herters in Waseca. My advice is to spend your money on a scale that will put a smile on your face every time you use it. I started with hand dies and still use inexpensive Wilson knock out dies for everyday sizing and seating many cartridges. When I retired, I made sure I left with a couple of dependable laboratory scales, electronic and manual. Expensive electronic scales are more stable than the Frankfort Arsenal version. What I am using now, is Adam MacDonald's trickler with an A.N.D. scale. I call it Adam's kernel counter, because it will register each kernel of powder. Expensive scales will not wander during a loading session. I loaded 34 rounds of .20 BR today. They were sized 60% of the neck with a Wilson sizer. The bullets were seated with a Wilson seater that was reamed by the riflesmith the same time the barrel was reamed. I saw that Co-Ax press on your bench. I bought one in 1972. I am glad they finally upgraded the shellholder so the springs are captured.
Saw those Herters things too,, we used to go to the one in Olympia Washington,,, now that is old
I was lucky & started reloading with my dad as a kid back in the 70's & 80's so knew about reloading when I started on my own after I got out of the army. I agree with pretty much everything he said. I would say you can get by fine without a wet tumbler, I've never used one, neither did my dad. Not that I am against wet tumbling, it's just not a MUST do it that way method of cleaning brass.
11C1P - I agree with you! Hav e been loading rifle and handgun loads for 20 years and have NEVER heard or read anything about the dust or use of water to clean shells. I use a shaker from Hornady and they get very clean with no dust when I empty it to separate the shells from the crushed nut shells into greeted spinner. Besides the over $400.00 for my progressive unit you have to buy individual shell plates for each caliber group. Then all the other parts to make everything work together. It does run into quite a bit of money. My big complaint is that periodically they come up with “improvements” that the engineers could have easily made the parts the “new” way from the beginning because it was an obvious fix. I have been saying for a long time it’s like planned obsolescence. And to buy the better replacements are not inexpensive. All of this is my own biased opinion on how it appears to me.
I wipe off my brass with a rag, tumbler is collecting dust
Mortars are hung!
I got a a Lee Progressive and watched all the videos. I bought jacketed .357 bullets and had very few problems. I load 5 and test.They shoot just fine. Don`t make 200 rds. and find out they are no good. Very good video!
Dec2020. Every component out of stock.
Not if you stock up during the good times.
where do you get em?
One thing I would recommend is getting a copy of any recent Hornady loading manual, not for the load data, but the introductory part before the data section. It will give you a good grounding about the whole process and how to avoid pitfalls by explaining why we do every step.
Make sure your press is solidly mounted (the inline fabrication mounts (shown) are great). If you're in a hurry or getting annoyed, stop. Accept that you will never get all the primers off the floor. Yes, reloading is opinion, as I learned when I bought my second reloading manual. Experiment with your tumbler -- it may not take as long as they say. Be patient -- stuff eventually goes on sale or you may find it used from a guy who changed his mind. Thanks for the video!
This video is very accurate. I use a stackable classifier for rocks for my tumber, works for all sizes of media and dries fast and a cut milk jug for a funnel. I would note to someone new that bullets are like car engines. There is a lot more going on than just an explosion and the tolerances on EVERYTHING matters. Your brass is expanding to your chamber size not just going boom. Resizing brass is what reloading is ALL about.
I would add 1) take notes consistently and organize them in such a way that you will be able to find what you did in the past. 2) never let anybody including yourself talk yourself into doing an extra step that does not give a measurable benefit for you. If your process gets cumbersome you will find excuses just not to do it.
Ok
#2 applied to most every thing in life is a benefit
This is one of the best reloading videos I´ve ever seen.
I couldn´t agree more.
Everyone who is new in reloading should see this.
What a fantastic video! Clearly destined to high end precision reloaders, but the concepts are universal. Besides, everyone starts reloading .38 Spl and ends up in 6.5x47 🤣
I watched this a second time 10 months later and further into the ammo shortage that is making ammo prices ridiculous. It's excellent, it's spot on, and Kudos to you for making it! For when I have more time, I will probably reload. And I will buy all the expensive equipment too! Thanks!
HI David, Glad you found it useful. Good luck when you get started. I really enjoy the hobby, but its not for everyone either.
There are 2 steps I would tell a new reloader. 1) Get a book that describes the WHOLE process. Read it TWICE. 2) Find someone that already reloads to help you get started. Everything after that will be learning on your own or upgrading. My opinion.
What book would you recommend?
Modern Reloading by Tichard Lee. Onlyproblem with that book is him pating himself on the back. Once you get past that it has some good information. A Facebook reloading group is not a bad idea either.Tons of reloading iformtion on the omputer as well.
All of these are great points. Point 9 is especially valid. When i went ahead and purchased a tumbler, media separator and annealing machine it made the brass prep phase go by like nothing. I can take my dirty used brass and make it almost like new very easily. Brass cleaning and prep is the normally most boring part of reloading and these items make that phase fun.
My Dad has been reloading for years and he is very disciplined about it. He mostly loads 45 colt, 45 acp ,44 mag and 44 spl. 45/70 He loads a box of 50 in those calibers for about 12 to 15 dollars per box. Besides the initial cost of the equipment he uses was his only significant cost. So yes ,you can at least in some calibers save money. You can of course get carried away or load with what i call exotic powders and really save nothing.
i started on progressive years ago, moved to single stage to enjoy the process more. better reloads too.
Dont know if I'll ever start reloading but your candor and knowledge have encouraged me to subscribe. Keep it up.
I have been reloading rifle ammo since 1992. I agree witn everything you said here. Great video for beginning reloaders. As far as time, I reloaded 20 rounds of 7mm Rem Mag last night. Starting with new brass, it took me nearly 2 hours. As you said, brass prep takes time. That was the majority of the time expended. I have a RCBS Case Prep center that helps.
I've been reloading for over 25 years. I agree 100% with everything you said. Tight groups and stay safe brother 👍🙏
I love these talking hand videos!
Your focus is on match grade rifle. Nothing wrong with that as an end goal; but I think it really is a minority of reloaders, and getting up to a much higher level then most people want or need to go.
I have 10 more.
These are the 10 things I wish someone had told me, before I started reloading.
1. Do not choose a caliber to start reloading that is challenging!!!
Often people want to reload something specific so that is what they start with. Many popular calibers are very challenging. 40sw, 357sig, 223/5.56 , 7mil, 5.7mil are especially challenging. 9mil, 45ACP, .308 and 45LC each have some quirks also, not especially challenging, but not easy. Buying a set of dies you might not use enough to justify, is justified by not setting yourself up for failure by trying to learn on a caliber that is especially challenging.
2. Start reloading a caliber that is NOT challenging. This would be preferably something rimmed, with medium thick brass, and no or a mild shoulder. Preferably between 35 and 45 caliber. .357 and 44special would be my top recomendations.
3. Don't try to start out with the very best or the very cheapest equipment. With some experience you can figure out better what you need, but the very cheapest equipment is often more challenging to use. Hornady, Lyman and RCBS all sell good basic kits, with most of the basic tools. Anything less expensive in my experience is a bit more challenging to use.
4. Get a good electronic scale. Balance scales are a challenge to learn in themselves, and they are slow and time consuming.
5. Get some basic organization accessories, case blocks and cartridge boxes. This stuff is not expensive, and simplicity in organization helps much starting out.
6. Do not try to combine steps starting out. Check and recheck your work each step, each batch and every step. Especially powder charges.
7. Start your first session with New reloading brass, like 100peices. Factory new pristine, never fired brass. No point in dealing with all the learning on brass cleaning and preperations and buying all the equipment for it until you make at least a couple boxes. Hornady reloading brass is my recommendation. Second would be Remington. Then Starline or Winchester. And even though it is new inspect it and resize it, just like you will with fired brass.
8. Get a hand primer to start out rather then starting learning priming on a press. It is much easier starting out and this is not a large expense. Much more feel and control with a hand primer and easier to learn.
9. If your kit did not come with one, get a bullet puller, you will likely need it before you have loaded up your first box. And it looks like a hammer, but do not swing it like your are trying to drive nails.
10. Contaminated powder is a nightmare. Clean your new powder measure internals from dirt, dust, and especially ANY and ALL oil or grease it was packed in. Metal parts will have oil on them coming out of the box. Use only a clean lint free towel! No solvent, no soap, no water, nothing but the towel. Use as long as it takes. Then set up and fill the powder measure up about 20% with the powder. Now ensuring you are holding the cap on with one hand and both hands on the measure, gently swirl the powder around in the reservoir and slowly invert it a couple dozen times. Now empty this power from the measure into a disposable container and dispose of it. Mount your measure and refill to about 20% again and practice setting your powder measure and adjusting it with this powder, and pour out this powder into a clean disposable container. Run out this powder and dispose of it. Then refill your powder measure to about 75%. As you are reloading, refill it back to about 75% when it gets down to like 20%. These machines generally throw most consistently when in the middle range. Should only have to do this once, ever, but it is very important.
Bonus, do not try to learn with cast bullets. There are additional challenges and lessons to learn with reloading cast bullets. Begin with TMJ or FMJ bullets. For TMJ my recommendation is Rainer Ballistics or Hornady HAP. Zero TMJ are marginal ok, all others I have tried were reallly bad.
Marking this with this comment
#8 TRUTH!!! My non reloading friends never understand why I laugh and scoff at all of the progressive reloading videos. Just get a progressive they say. "If I were to reload, I wouldn't waste my time with a single stage!" Great video man.
This is the first time for me to see your channel. I'm not sure how this video popped into my recommendation list, but the topic caught my eye.
I have been reloading for a very long time. I'm pushing 43 years of doing it. When I started out it was with LEE hand die sets. Boy those were the days. I remember when the RCBS ROCK CHUCKER first hit the town I lived in. Still single stage, but it did make seating rifle rounds and crimping easier.
I'm not in agreement that it costs more to reload than to buy factory ammo. When I was really into shooting USPSA I was running 1,000 rounds a week through my pistols. I could load 1,000 rounds in about an hour and a half once I got the primer tubes filled. That was the tedious part. That 4,000 rounds a month cost less to reload than buying 500 rounds of factory ammo. If I dig through all the notebooks I kept I can give you an exact price for each round of every type of ammo I reload for.
Today I load mostly 9mm, 10mm, 45acp, and 9mm Major for pistol ammo. Rifle I load 5.56 NATO, 7.62 NATO, 6.8 Rem SPC2, 300WM, 50 BMG, 416 Barrett, and my son loads a lot of 338 Norma.
I load 556 and 762 by the 5 gallon bucket for practice and classes. I also load precision for both, and I can not buy any of it for anywhere near the price it costs to load it.
It am in AGREEMENT that reloading is expensive to START UP. I also agree in buying the BEST BRASS you can, IF you are going to be able to recover it. I bought so much Lake City 556 and 762 brass back in the 90s that I still have a few hundred pounds of each that are still in the containers they were shipped in. I have 3 Dillon 650s, a 1050, and 6 Single stage RCBS units, plus a Dillon for shotshells.
There is a lot of money tied up in presses, dies, and other stuff.
For anyone thinking about getting into reloading, it is time consuming. If you are loading plinking ammo, you can crank it out fast once you have the proper setup. That is time consuming. Loading 10 rounds, then changing the powder charge 1/10th of a grain. A CHRONOGRAPH IS DEFINITELY A MUST HAVE ITEM. A range close by is great as well. My test range is 75 feet from my reloading shed.
The reason I use Dillon pressed is the warranty. If I can get something I need from Dillon , that us where I get it. They are also very helpful and customer service is a priority.
Thank you for sharing. I was thinking about starting reloading, but after seeing your video I realized right now wouldn’t be a good time for me to get into this hobby. You saved me some money
"You can't Polish a Turd, but you can cover it in Glitter", is I believe the Phrase you might have been referring too.
I completely agree about managing bullet jump, and that dollar savings of reloading come only when you shoot a lot, but now that my 20-year-old RCBS Rock Chucker has produced over thousands of pistol and rifle rounds, and my basic kit has paid for itself many times over! But I consider reloading to be 'quality time'. To be at peace, preparing for the fun of shooting, and discovering how to control THIS new hidden variable I hadn't realized could mess up my accuracy. Still learning at 68!
As to your #10 (buy good brass) I agree in principle - some brands are superb out of the box. But I believe that the primary benefits of more expensive brass are mostly consistency of weight, and (secondarily) concentric case necks. Even the cheapest brass, selected for weight, gives excellent results, especially when its necks are relatively thin and don't interfere with bullet alignment during chambering. When I size and trim my brass, sort by specific headstamp, weight sorting gives me amazing results (single digit SD, mid-teens ES) with even the cheapest (like, FREE!) US major manufacturer brass. Some kind donors at my range over the past several years have 'donated' several hundred each of once-fired Federal ("FC 223 REM") and Lake City (NATO symbol plus "LC YY" with YY for the year of production) headstamps. (Yes, I have to ream out the primer crimps, but 0 cents beats, what, over a buck for Lapua?) I've sorted the LC and FC into groups of 100 and 50 that are all within 0.8 grain of the same weight after sizing and trimming. When all the brass in my production lot is within 0.8 grain, that means its powder capacity is within a tenth of a grain for any ball or stick powder, and that is a HUGE reducer in muzzle velocity variation, especially as I get close to 100% fill. (If you are holding your powder charge within 0.1 gn, but your case capacities vary by 0.3 gn, you CANNOT get tight control of muzzle velocity!)
I'd add a #11 - if you are going for accuracy at 300+ yards, the best $50-75 you can spend is to buy a match-quality die set. I have a whole stack of "starter marriage" die sets that I bought "just to get into this caliber", before realizing I liked it, and the cheap die set just was holding me back. There's no place in shooting where the difference between $30 and $80 for "the same" equipment shows more dramatically! And that's $50-$75, spent ONCE, no matte how many hundreds or thousands of rounds you shoot!
I completely agree with #11 if you are reloading rifle cartridges for accuracy. Finding the Forster Bench Rest Seater was the single best discovery I made in my ongoing reloading experiments. RCBS now makes seating does with the same mechanism. Actually, Lyman’s M expander dies for pistol cartridges might be #2 on my great discovery list.
I don’t hand load to save money. I hand load to add another aspect to the fun of shooting. Also, I love the methodical, scientific process of developing the most accurate load for a specific firearm. Finally, I can develop loads that just aren’t made commercially such as an accurate but low recoil .45 ACP that works well in multiple handguns. In that context, putting together die sets that work best for me given my experience makes sense.
Well done, the initial $$ for the press you choose and the various other equipment can add up to the investment. BUT! It is a life time investment and will last for YEARS and over that time and number of shells you reload the cost per shell goes down. I started out with basic shotgun press and moved to metallic with a RCBS Rock Chucker, which still works (adapted the Hornady Lock N Load die quick change). Moved to a progressive by Dillon to Reload more pistol rounds iwhich I can reload 400 rounds in 1-1.5 hours and more practice. DO NOT use reloads if you CCW, could be used against you should you need for self defense.
But good video going over reloading..
Wow, what a wonderful video. I do load 9mm, lol, but I'm 72 years old and what else am I going to do. Years ago, when I started reloading, I bought my tools as I needed them. Not really anything unnecessary. I used a dry tumbler, getting ready to switch to wet. Thank you for a tremendously informative video. Whenever someone say's to me, I'm going to start reloading, they're getting this video. You now have a new subscriber. By the way, you gave me the final push to buy, or make a wet tumbler.
only reason i started reloading is because i can save money. Im making 9mm right now on a Lee loadmaster progressive press for $0.15/rnd. I buy the powder, primers, and bullets.
Subscribed. About once a year I work up some rounds. Recently bought a 30-06 that is giving me terrible accuracy. I stumbled here for a refresher since I can’t sleep tonight.
When you start reloading 50BMG match ammo, everything comes to play. The most expansive ammo I ever made was about $5-7 per round and I had to apply every single step in reloading process, such as case trimming, primer pocket reaming, annealing, etc.
Ok
I've been an avid reloader since 1970 and was fortunate to have a veteran reloader to learn from in the beginning. If I had all the money I've spent on reloading equipment, oh my word. I'm not sure if shooting means more to me than reloading but it's close. Good vid.
Thanks!
Tedious is my middle name. First name: Penny. Last name: Pincher
I'd refer you to his first statement. Everyone thinks they'll save money, but they hardly ever do, unless its to reload some really rare cartridge. if you can get the ammo for less than a buck a round for rifle cartridges, you probably wont save money.
If you shoot competitions, particularly rifle, you will save money. Good ammo is $1.50 per round. Loading is
I reload 38spl 125gr tc/fp hardcast cost me $5.50 a box versus $16.20 a factory box. 357 mag 125gr xtp hunting & self defense loads 50 rounds cost me $13.70, versus American gunner 20 rounds at $22.89. Also, 45colt 200gr hardcast rnfp cost me $6.90 versus on line best sale price purchase of $24.50. Simple math tells me in the last few years, and the years to come, I will save hundreds and more hundreds of dollars because I reload. Oh, and because my shell casings never fall to the ground, I have never cleaned my brass and never will clean my brass. In a carbide die the tarnish acts as a natural case lube= easy and smooth reloading.
@@ironbunny4121 "...if you can get the ammo for less than a buck a round for rifle cartridges, you probably won't save money."
2020: *Am I a joke to you?*
@@JakeJarmel haha, fair! But still accurate, reloading components are insane
It's a perfect hobby in which one can do and enjoy well into old age.
I started reloading to save money, but I ended up spending more money. However, I could not get the accuracy and consistency I get from mass produced ammunition. Like putting 80 rounds in roughly a 4 in. group, at 100, 150 and 200 yards. The scope's elevation adjustment malfunctioned. I got rooked by a person I thought was a friend, but the groups were amazing, just not quite on the point of aim. It took me 80 rounds at three distances to figure it out. I lost a friend that day, but I kept that load and still use it.
All that may be a bit much for hunting, but getting it right before you go into the field eliminates one more thing that could go wrong.
I started with less expensive and gradually moved to higher quality, and quality costs. Loved your video and keep them coming.
Great and valuable video. I’ve been reloading for 15yrs and I agree with everything you said. I would add, the dangers of reloading for other people. Well done.
Been reloading for nearly 50 years and back then we did not have all the wizz bangs you young fellas have available now, old way still works
Absolutely spot on! Find a buddy/mentor and others interested in reloading. Powders and projectiles are swappable items. You can trade partial pounds or boxes for something else you want to try. We all have a shelf or two of stuff that didn't work us but might work for you. We also have tools to try before you buy. Don't forget Starline in the good brass category, especially for pistol.
I agree with you, teaming up is a great way to split expenses. And that's been my advice to new shooters who want to cut costs. Powder, primers, bullets are easily divided and swapped. Some (older) gunshops will even sell or resell partial boxes of bullets.
I’ve been reloading for 20 years and your advice is very sound!
I got into reloading about 10 years ago. It's time consuming, expensive(especially getting started) but I love it. I get my mind set on what I'm doing and forget my problems for a while, it's pretty cool customizing a round for your rifle. Nice video, really enjoyed it. 👍👍
Reloading is a passion. It not just to replace the ammo you have spent, but improving it to where it is custom Tailored to your firearm to make it the most accurate possible. It not just going through the steps but time spent at the range to see what small differences you have made to each session of reloading to see if it improves accuracy. The goal for me is to be able to put 10 rounds through the same hole. It what bullet, what powder, what primer you need to make the perfect round
All good advice (I give them to others all the time). I'll add one, "reloading is a hobby in itself". Any other way, and you might loose interest, since these days factory quality ammo is quite good.
Grest info! Having a crono is a good investment. I picked up a new lee 50th anniversary kit for $120.00. A 6" caliper $35. Hammer bullet puller $20. $175 total. Powder, primers and projectiles (had brass),$195.00. $370 total. All works great, cost me $35 more than buying factory, and now I have all the gear. Much fun.....
Thank you so much for this video. I was thinking about reloading, and now I realize that it's a hobby unto itself. Definitely not for me.
I bought my first reloader after being a Marine Capt in LA during rodney king riots,,,,, I NOW save money,,, I purchased several estates with reloading equipment, that the people really thought was just a bunch of junk. I gave them what they asked,, never argued, since their father/grandfather etc had died. I did very well,, and NO you cannot do that anymore,,, all good deals are gone. After many many years of reloading, I have found hitting the target, grouping, etc,, all amateur considerations. I believe,,, that the BEST RELOADER can find all his brass,, after shooting a magazine,,, within a 3ft circle,,, THAT is the best reloader on the line.
Happy to see you making so much content! A few of my favorite reloading channels aren't making much these days. Johnny's Reloading Bench hasn't uploaded anything in about 3 months! Hopefully he's ok.
Molzdad 10 I hope he didn’t finally “blow his face off”. I sure hope he’s well
I think his work life has consumed his time. At least that is my hope. I too miss his videos, great source of info and enjoyment.
@@PC-vq5ud Ordinarily I would agree, but it doesn't take 30 seconds to get on any of his social media accounts and say something to everyone who's still subscribed. That's what is odd. Nothing on any platform.
This video is absolutely colossal. I really do wish I would have found something like this prior to my journey down the reloading road.
Cannot argue with anything. Absolutely perfect.
Thank you. This is simply my experience, someone else may be different.
Oh i can... waiting to watch it all before i make my argument
Thank you
@vic vapor triggering you apparently.
Great article, I started reloading in 1981 because it was cheap you could load 100 rounds
for peanuts...... well those days are gone !! But today quality and precision are outstanding.
Reloading a hobby or an addiction, I'm not sure, but it sure makes you smile !!!!
Factory ammo is also a lot more expensive, and what you get is very inaccurate.
I started reloading in '84, when I bought a .44mag Ruger. My entire reloading kit, fit in a shoebox, that I would take to work, and reload in my down time, as a firefighter.
I've picked up quite a bit of equipment, over the years.
I always espoused the idea that the government can't take your guns, due to the 2nd Amendment, but they can starve you for ammo. And you know what a rifle is called, with no ammo? An expensive club. 😄
Al Henning you are Spot On! I've been saying this for years! The 2nd amendment doesn't say anything about ammo. Comedian Chris Rock even had a routine about it years ago. He said, give 'em all the guns they want...just don't give 'em any bullets. Or make the bullets really expensive so if someone kills you it'll be like dang they must have really wanted you dead!
No one who has ever been in a firefight has ever looked back and thought "dang, I really shouldn't have brought so much ammo..."
Then again, you'd be surprised to find that in many wars, battles and military actions, the side that lost a shooting engagement only did so because they ran out of bullets before the enemy ran out of bodies. Ironic that it was my old political science teacher who pointed that out.
@Jbog07 In the mere 27 words of the 2nd amendment, where does it mention ammo? I 'll wait...
As below - I started with a Lyman 46 Ed, in the 70s. I spent the winter reading it over. In the spring, when I was out of school, the first thing I grabbed was a Lee Hand loader - in the caliber I had. All I needed has a hammer. I bought primers by the 100 and learned what I liked. I loaded and fired 313 cartridges - over the course of one # of powder. Large rifle magnum CCI - I grabbed 5k of them that fall. I live north, so getting powder lit, well it worked for me. I only point this out as having almost 1000 shots, in my first summer and winter shooting meant that I knew what I needed and what I could fudge. Knowing what I know now - I would have gone Blue D progressive. However - Each fall and spring I load all the brass - many times in differing calibers, but Eh - 1500 rds takes some planning. I started on 303Br and 44 M. 43 yrs later I still load them, plus a couple others. Cheers!
Id love to see an update with 2021 ammo prices and difficulty of finding
Primers are even harder to find, loads of bullet designs are discontinued or pricier now. Finding ammo is a pain, but I worry that the costs saved by reloading at this point in time will get worse fast if primers don't become available any time soon.
Here is your update. There is no reloading anymore due to the fact that there are no primers available. I have not seen any small primers in 2 years.
@@dinstaar I just bought some small rifle primers today at Brownells. Not exactly the price I wanted to spend and the hazmat fee sucks...but you do what you gotta do.
@@RhinoViper Yeah, that hazmat charge is crazy. I refuse to pay it. I'll just hoard ammo and wait it out.
@@dinstaar I thought about waiting as well, but as this craziness has gone on, i'm becoming more unsure of how long that wait will be. I don't recommend stockpiling at these prices but if you need some stuff, you gotta get it when you can....and I'm not even convinced when this stuff does come back that we'll ever see the $40 per 1000 for primers we saw before...as much as I hate the term...what is going to be the "new normal" price and even when is that going to be? I have no idea....
Got my first one off Amazon and have been going for years. It is not about saving money but I do enjoy reloading as therapy.
Well done video with great advice ! I have recently started reloading on a single stage press for competitive pistol shooting. It is slow and tedious but I have been very satisfied with the results. I have been given some great advice by fellow shooters but I have also been given some not so good advice. With my limited experience I have found that you can load good ammo without spending a fortune but you have to willing to take the time and go much slower. I am confident with what I have learned through each step of the process and I am glad I didn't jump right in with a progressive as many of my friends suggested. There is so much equipment that you need regardless of whether your single stage or progressive that the cost of the press is only part of the equation.
Even with the level of experience that I have, (a lot), I have still never moved beyond a single stage press. I can meet my needs with it, and I just like handling the cartridge at every step of the way.
Sako and Nosler brass are just as good as any on the market! Happy you put together your 10 ideas for new re-loaders. Accuracy is determined by more than just reloading. For hunting most of what you recommend is not necessary. Get a Nosler rifle and Nosler ammo and you are well under 1 MOA, same can be said for SAKO. Thousand of dollars saved. Target shooters are a waste of resources, but, if its your thing, go ahead, waste your money and or save it by spending big in the first place? Anyhow, I do agree with all you have pointed out. To sum it up, just buy a good rifle and good ammo and hunt for food!
“If I can buy a box for $10, and frequently I can..”
Famous last words.
Lmao frrrrrr I can’t find 224 Valkyrie anywhere time to hit up my coworker who reloads I’m thinking about starting to
Excellent, direct and to the point. I couldn’t agree more to everything you said. When I first started down the metallic reloading, 6 years ago, I was privileged to hook up with a guy who has been reloading for 40 years. I’ve been reloading shotgun shells for 18 years but I still consider myself new to metallic reloading, yes even after 6 years under my belt. I just started reloading 30-06 Springfield for my M1 Garand and we talked back and forth for almost a week before I came up with a load to start with. Wow so thankful to have this knowledge available to me. FIND A MENTOR.
The older guys at the range, and some of the younger ones, are a motherlode of experience and advice. Learn from their experience as well as your own. This is usually easy, as most of them like to talk as much as they like to load and shoot.
I’ve used the last of my primers. Until they become available (???) I’ve got an anchor bolted to the reloading bench.
When components got scarce, I had about a dozen rifles that were just a pile of parts.Instead of reloading, I now have several rifle up and running -- money is still a factor, but post-Biden, those guns are becoming valuable. Best of luck!
@@Duke_of_Prunes you can make matchhead primers really easily out of reused fired primers in case of primer shortages just search around on youtube just know it’s a corrosive primer
@@Zodax I have only recently heard of match head primers -- will do research. Thanks!
@@Duke_of_Prunes this video is great! good luck my friend ua-cam.com/video/CQI2bvkE7ic/v-deo.html
So glad to see you use several reloading manuals. For a long time manuals were the only reloading tool I had more than one of.
Pfft... To get started in reloading you need:
1. Buy kit (Anniversary ($148 on Amazon) or Challenger kit) from Lee Precision. Just single stage, breech lock.
2. Buy die set (carbide 3 or 4-die set, for the caliber you reloading. Tons of them on Amazon for $30-$50 ).
3. Buy electronic scale to measure powder. The manual scale from kit will work fine, but electronic is faster. Frankford - $28 at Amazon.
4. Buy electronic calipers to measure case length. This is important. Around $25.
5. Buy case trimmer $7) and case length gauge with shell holder. $7.
All above equipment will cost you around $250-$350.
6. Start reloading!(I assume you already have brass, projectiles, primers, powder, did your research on how much you need to put powder in a casing, watch UA-cam videos how to reload.)
7. Optional: Casing prep kit.
I live in Hawaii and a round of .223 cost around $1. I reload for $0.25. So it SAVES me money.
Don't be discouraged. It is exciting hobby.
You can have 223 in Hawaii???
I torment myself often with top lists, but darn, you killed it. #8 esp. Literally don't reload rifle, unless you're a brass masochist and can wait a year to actually reload ammo. ITs a never ending task and in volume, like 223, seemingly endless for the kapow moments you toss quarters downrange/into the trash.
Brass prep is the tedious work
An interesting mix of perfect spot on advice and a few things I wouldn't recommend due to either a rabbithole of nonsense or the practicality of performance vs time vs cost.
Still gave her a thumbs up and appreciate your opinions.
One tip : try not to save space for your reloading setup. If possible try to have a spacious setup , where every tool has its own place. It’s so frustrating to have to reload in a tiny space , with all of your tools and equipment being in each other’s way.
Many people speak of their loading bench. I am fortunate enough to have an entire "playroom", and even then, brass storage has spilled into the garage. Space is good.
Hello,
I started hand loading to eliminate woodchucks from the world, in 1965. I agree with most of your points totally, and a few mostly.
If your shoot certain calibers you will save a lot of money reloading. Other calibers you save little to nothing.
Yep. Not a lot to be saved by doing this. But when it works it's great. Just bought a Lyman case prep centre. So good. Good brass is good for the range. When out shooting ferals from vehicles, Cheap brass is good as you dont cry when you lose it over the side.
I reload so I always have the option to shoot, even during ammo shortages/runs.
Started reloading back in the 70s. Have had access to all the free brass I want from our local range. So I have been reloading for decades to stockpile ammo. And more recently compete in PRS, able to fine tune my loads.
The saving money thing was just what I told the wife to get her on board initially
Been using the Forester single stage press & it's quality equipment. Along with the Frankfort wet tumbler, a strong magnet takes care of finding all the pins. Reloading does take a ton of time but for me the process is well worth the effort.
And then he said... "He would save money by reloading." HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
Excellent!
Also use the same brass (don't mix Federal, Remington, Peterson, Lapua, Nozler brass).
When I started reloading 40 years ago I save my factory brass which were mixed (Nozler, Federal, Winchester).
Reloading can occasionally save money for some cartridges, for example here in Alaska the cheapest factory 300 H & H is over $75 per box in Fairbanks and more than that due to shipping if ordered over the web.