Started wiping down machines and sweeping my dad's T&D Shop out at 12yo. At 14 I started in the grinding shop. At 16 I moved to die building and at 18 I took over supervision of the 2nd shift. We built just about everything over the years and many thing other said could not be done. You are correct about the reverse draw for short dia to depth ratios. You are a natural and a person must be born with it.
Amazing! I was actually researching this myself as I have always been into reloading, and recently decided I want to do my own casting as well. I'm very much interested in a detailed series.
At 1:05 the video shows someone measuring a bore with a twin pin tool. I bought Hexagon Tesa 3 point Imicro and TRI O Bore inside micrometers. They do a great job correctly measuring bored holes. They catch out of round, barrel shape, bulged bores and many other poor conditions of boring holes.
I'm up for the detail too. I'm looking forward to see if and how you incorporate any extraction into the punch. I was wondering about maybe putting and extra stepped diameter or two into your punch....that way, when you cut and press it the first time, you wouldn't have to extract it from the female die, just change the male die and press it again. Maybe do all the stepped pressing but the final so that it could be controlled a bit better?
Clamp the copper with the outer edge of the die first. Continue the stroke to form the completed draw and then cut the part free from the strip. So, a heavy spring holds the part in place while it is being drawn. The drawing cavity is supported by an even heavier spring, rendering it immobile until near the end of the stroke. At that time it gives way, allowing the shearing edges to do their thing. A small pin under a light spring load in the center of the first part of the die (concave side of the part) then pushes the finished part off the die. At the beginning of the stroke, when it first encounters the material, the spring will not offer enough resistance to affect the material, but after the part has been formed and is cut free from the strip, it will be enough to push the finished part off the forming die, where it would otherwise cling as if electroplated on. The stripper pin should NOT be a close-tolerance fit ... .020 wiggle is good ... because you want to prevent a vacuum from forming on the back of the part. Clamp. Form. Punch. Eject. Full soft copper is so malleable that you can start with stock that is already nearly the finished thickness. Make the clearance on the shearing edges 1/3 the thickness of the material per side. IE .030" material needs .010" clearance. Make the punch .020" smaller than the die. You may be able to tighten that up a few thousandths, but those numbers will get you close enough to make parts. You WANT the material to fracture, leaving a compression line on each side of a fracture zone. When those three zones are equal, you have the clearance between the punch and die right. I can't give you the weights on the springs, sorry but I never got that far, but think in terms of valve lifter springs. You can drop one spring inside another to get more resistance, if needed.
With normal cupping, you can just pull the punch back out and it'll strip the cup off just fine. That's what I do anyway. With really small diameter punches as well, the name of the game is polish. Every die surface should be a mirror, and, between every anneal, you must remove any scale so you don't scratch it. This is just from my own personal experience. Also don't use too much lube but also don't use too little. And, if you have a spring loaded stripper under a light spring like you say, if you're a good machinist and made your dies very carefully, it should work for stripping the parts. Unfortunately I wasn't really able to do this with my 22 cartridge case forming project because my hydraulic press didn't have a threaded part on the ram for it and it's very easy to bend the really long thin punch you need for forming 22 lr cases.
John, if you post it I will watch it. I really enjoy all of your videos, and I don't skip through any of it. I think one of the best features of your is showing the real details of what it takes to get to the end product. Thanks and keep posting :-)
What a great topic. Thanks god you got out of nyc and can shoot again. This is a very interesting subject. I'm interested in heat treating. 1144 is used the Parker Hannifin for their hydraulic quick couplers. It makes a great bearing surface when hard. They induction harden it. We used it for 2" drive shafts at work and it cracked. It also cracks if your weld it (high sulfur).
Another note, as you step up to 3, 4, 5 times diameter the length you may have to use a reverse draw to keep from ripping the wall apart. As you work the copper or brass it becomes somewhat hardened. This is called work hardening and this makes the next draw more difficult. A tempering can be done (heat treatment) to relieve the built up stress in the wall but may not be necessary if you do a reverse draw. Great jobs man!
This is an awesome idea for a series! I would love all the nitty gritty detail, since I am going to be embarking on this same journey as well. I would love to see your process.
Cast iron has been used on radiosed draw dies. Thow relitively soft, It is polished quickly and easily. So your aluminum may work quite well. Just a thought from a retired tool and die maker. Oh. Another thing that is fun to do is to invert the shell onto what would look like the end of a pipe with inner and outer Rad. The ID of this is the OD of your next shell. It totale controls the line up. Do the punch the same with a radiosed end. Just fun to watch the material being pulled up that outside of the pillar and around th top. Have fun.
How exciting! Put me down for more detail too! How much detail? Well, I don't know. Enough that I have a good understanding of how this all works, but I don't want to see each pass of the lathe either. I'm looking forward to seeing this project!
PLEASE tell me there's more videos on this! I tried skimming through your videos, but there's a toonnn of them (great for you guys, it's alot of work to put out that much quality content) and couldn't find any other bullet vids
Thank you. I want to learn how to draw smaller stuff. My goal is to draw cups for making primers for rifles and pistols and to draw brass for making rim fire rounds. Starting with 22 long rifle, but I would also like to be able to draw cases for 41 Swiss Rim Fire. The most important by far are the cups for primers. I do not have a machine shop. So far I have been making dies for swaging 22 long rifle bullets (no jackets) and dies for sizing the brass for 22 LR. I use a drill press and a dremel with diamond bits for machining.
Quick question for you. Able to make a tool to make large pistol primer cups and also a tool for make the anvil for them too. That right there is something I may be very interested in and possibly pursuing
As a very old Tool & Die Maker I sure like to see others with the born ability to concieve and produce stamping and forming dies of all type. Very nice work! My best projects were deep form dies for all sorts of parts. I like your work and wonder if you have thought about pressure extruded copper or brass alloy casings. A small puck is placed down in a female form cavity and a form punch is pushed in which reverse extrudes the material up the sides forming a casing. Soda and Beer can technology
Absolutely fascinating, and excellent timing! Please include as much detail as possible, and if this works out for you I'm sure there would be much interest in a brass casings test as well.
cant wait to see it. make it as detailed as you can.like some of the other guys have said you make really good videos so being a little long wont hurt a thing.
Both. I use gas checks in my cast bullets. I had never though to jacketting the whole bullet. I'm wondering if I can resize a jacketed bullet. I am also very interested in generic blanking and the making of progressive dies. Paul
Nice videos. How hard would it be to fabricate a punch and die set to make primer caps and anvils for reloading? Primers are not currently for sale and I can only reload factory primers so many times. Thank You.
I feel like they should be contacting you about teaching at the NY techshop when it opens also, a detailed look at this project would be great - I've been wanting to see what would sort of metal forming tools could be made in a shop similar to mine
Genius!I'm doing a more primitive jacketing,turning a 1/2 copper plumbing cap into something similar to the .73 Fury for 12 ga.Also to make FMJ round nose for the same-shot out of 12 ga fully rifled ultra slug.
Instead of running it thru die after die after die, perhaps making a single multi-level die but using multiple sized push rods that fit each level so you could essentially push the one copper blank straight down from the top and by the time it reaches the bottom it is the size and shape to surround the bullet core?
Sure the tonnage is higher but the material metallurgy is very important. The material must be one that flows. Did you know that Kiddy Fire Extinguishers are formed buy extrusion? Great work and great video!
would case hardened mild steel work as a diemaking material? as in, you could roughly drill and grind the dies to shape out of mild steel, and then case harden them several milimeters deep before finish grinding, to make a hard and tough surface without having to spend like a hundred dollars on tool steel rod?
hi!please tell me the formula (or size) how to calculate the size of a copper billet for 308 caliber bullets ?what thickness is better to take copper ? and what are the diameters of punches and matrices to use when stamping?
I wish I'd've found your channel about two years sooner! I know you've had a lot of comments on the series, but I just hope you've gone into exhaustive detail about making bullet jackets. I have a small, and very old Craftsman bench lathe, but it'd work great for making the dies the way you've got them set up here. I like it, and I like it a lot! (Your series, on making jacket drawing dies, I mean.) I have a hand press that has lots of the muscle that's needed for moving metal. This is actually exciting for me!
Would love to see all steps. Doesn't matter if the video is 5 minutes or 50, as long as there is good content then we will watch. You put up good content so don't worry about time.
So the stories go that Joyce Hornady and others began their bullet making businesses using .22 LR cases to make their bullet jackets. Have you tried that approach?
I would like ALL the detail I can get. I am a NEW mini Lathe owner. Used wood lathes a lot. have 2 so know some. I load my own and can't afford to buy all these dies to make from. Also plan on turning my own loading dies in the near future. Looking for a mini mill.
You betcha I am interested in more videos along this line. It is the main agenda that brought me to buying a lathe. Got me started, now I gotta get a mill.
What are the dimensions for the dies and what caliber is this for? Also what aluminum and what steel would be best? I was thinking 6061 or 7071t6 aluminum and O1 tool steel round stock.
fun qu for you . by any chance could you make some gas check dies that are very simple . say for a .224 that would be a 223, .277 that would be a 270 , .260 for a 25-06 and the fun one a .243 for a 243 .. what would you charge for a one stage gas check die, maker.
Can you make your own cartages and primers too? I'm at a point where I'm thinking of doing my own ammo making because I can't reload my ammo if I don't have any to begin with!
U have a good voice and are a good speaker. U sound like we want to listen to what u have to say instead of wanting to press stop and look for other vids
Didnt know you were a shooter too. Thats cool you are making coining and drawing dies. Do you have a punch press? They are SUPER affordable at auctions. Like sub scrap. Last couple i seen were the little 5 ton that went for about 50 bucks a pop. With production tooling in the machine. {you know they are nearly worthless without at least some tooling}
you can go direct to the carriers websites like DHE {dependable highway express} redding, swift, whatever you see on teh side of the truck. You can get similar quotes right off their sites, but freight quote allows you to compare them quickly and easily. on the flip side i used uship site to quote moving a bandsaw 180 miles and all were well over 1000 bucks. if its palletized, LTL freight is CHEAP.
Hey no problem! I used to be a ebay power seller/china importer. I could ship a ton of crap {literally} from china to my doorstep, on a couple pallets for 1200 bucks. the part the caught my attention was when i read the bill. 800 of it was administrative fees! it was under 500 for the actual sea freight and train freight and eventual break out to a lift gate truck for home delivery! Most of these places like uship are just RAPE. smalltime carriers, no liability.
Oh, I forgot to mention that after my dad sold his T&D shop I went to work for an old German guy who was licensed to manufacture handguns for S&W many of which were made on the old style machines (now antiques). Of course newer designs (1985+) were created on cnc.
I'm certainly not in the know! lol Just thinking out loud....might spark an idea in a bigger brain somewhere :) Which side will it tend to stick to? Male? Female?
Could you please advise the source book you reference; and where you buy specific steels. I am trying to get a 10-20 steel for amateur smithing, and can't ask at local home depot. No one can get beyond technician now a days. But basically - I am trying to learn metal and working metal. Heat and Hammer/Machining/whatever.
Oh....the punch/die would have to be longer/taller to accommodate the added steps. If it would work, you'd only have to extract twice instead of four times.
I'd like to see something about making casings as well.
yeahh me 2
It's possible to cast lead bullets easily... Making casings at home is something that would be really useful. Pls help
@@clive1236 you'd have to turn them, the the hardware for drawing brass thick enough to form that case head would be out of your price range.
@@pacman10182 that makes sense... Thanks👍
Me to
Started wiping down machines and sweeping my dad's T&D Shop out at 12yo. At 14 I started in the grinding shop. At 16 I moved to die building and at 18 I took over supervision of the 2nd shift. We built just about everything over the years and many thing other said could not be done. You are correct about the reverse draw for short dia to depth ratios. You are a natural and a person must be born with it.
Amazing! I was actually researching this myself as I have always been into reloading, and recently decided I want to do my own casting as well. I'm very much interested in a detailed series.
it's every res blooded American boys personal responsibility to know how to do this at this point in time
At 1:05 the video shows someone measuring a bore with a twin pin tool. I bought Hexagon Tesa 3 point Imicro and TRI O Bore inside micrometers. They do a great job correctly measuring bored holes. They catch out of round, barrel shape, bulged bores and many other poor conditions of boring holes.
I'm all for it!
Personally I would like a series that goes into all the details
I'm up for the detail too. I'm looking forward to see if and how you incorporate any extraction into the punch. I was wondering about maybe putting and extra stepped diameter or two into your punch....that way, when you cut and press it the first time, you wouldn't have to extract it from the female die, just change the male die and press it again. Maybe do all the stepped pressing but the final so that it could be controlled a bit better?
Clamp the copper with the outer edge of the die first. Continue the stroke to form the completed draw and then cut the part free from the strip. So, a heavy spring holds the part in place while it is being drawn. The drawing cavity is supported by an even heavier spring, rendering it immobile until near the end of the stroke. At that time it gives way, allowing the shearing edges to do their thing. A small pin under a light spring load in the center of the first part of the die (concave side of the part) then pushes the finished part off the die. At the beginning of the stroke, when it first encounters the material, the spring will not offer enough resistance to affect the material, but after the part has been formed and is cut free from the strip, it will be enough to push the finished part off the forming die, where it would otherwise cling as if electroplated on. The stripper pin should NOT be a close-tolerance fit ... .020 wiggle is good ... because you want to prevent a vacuum from forming on the back of the part.
Clamp.
Form.
Punch.
Eject.
Full soft copper is so malleable that you can start with stock that is already nearly the finished thickness. Make the clearance on the shearing edges 1/3 the thickness of the material per side. IE .030" material needs .010" clearance. Make the punch .020" smaller than the die. You may be able to tighten that up a few thousandths, but those numbers will get you close enough to make parts. You WANT the material to fracture, leaving a compression line on each side of a fracture zone. When those three zones are equal, you have the clearance between the punch and die right.
I can't give you the weights on the springs, sorry but I never got that far, but think in terms of valve lifter springs. You can drop one spring inside another to get more resistance, if needed.
With normal cupping, you can just pull the punch back out and it'll strip the cup off just fine. That's what I do anyway. With really small diameter punches as well, the name of the game is polish. Every die surface should be a mirror, and, between every anneal, you must remove any scale so you don't scratch it. This is just from my own personal experience. Also don't use too much lube but also don't use too little. And, if you have a spring loaded stripper under a light spring like you say, if you're a good machinist and made your dies very carefully, it should work for stripping the parts. Unfortunately I wasn't really able to do this with my 22 cartridge case forming project because my hydraulic press didn't have a threaded part on the ram for it and it's very easy to bend the really long thin punch you need for forming 22 lr cases.
John, if you post it I will watch it. I really enjoy all of your videos, and I don't skip through any of it. I think one of the best features of your is showing the real details of what it takes to get to the end product. Thanks and keep posting :-)
What a great topic. Thanks god you got out of nyc and can shoot again. This is a very interesting subject. I'm interested in heat treating. 1144 is used the Parker Hannifin for their hydraulic quick couplers. It makes a great bearing surface when hard. They induction harden it. We used it for 2" drive shafts at work and it cracked. It also cracks if your weld it (high sulfur).
It will be interesting to see how you form your primer pockets. Keep the videos coming!
Another note, as you step up to 3, 4, 5 times diameter the length you may have to use a reverse draw to keep from ripping the wall apart. As you work the copper or brass it becomes somewhat hardened. This is called work hardening and this makes the next draw more difficult. A tempering can be done (heat treatment) to relieve the built up stress in the wall but may not be necessary if you do a reverse draw. Great jobs man!
This is an awesome idea for a series! I would love all the nitty gritty detail, since I am going to be embarking on this same journey as well. I would love to see your process.
Cast iron has been used on radiosed draw dies.
Thow relitively soft, It is polished quickly and easily.
So your aluminum may work quite well.
Just a thought from a retired tool and die maker.
Oh. Another thing that is fun to do is to invert the shell onto what would look like the end of a pipe with inner and outer Rad. The ID of this is the OD of your next shell. It totale controls the line up. Do the punch the same with a radiosed end.
Just fun to watch the material being pulled up that outside of the pillar and around th top.
Have fun.
The world needs more swage die makers
How interesting. This video is 7 years old, but now I see new comments. This means that the topic is more relevant than the time.
Impressed with your work, can u please post the sizes of your dies. Do u have some diagrams or blueprints?
this shows how that casing is made, thanks, the other vids just show machines working, not how the metal is shaped. love to see more of yours
Can you show the process for making cartridge castings? Rifle and Pistol would be great.
How exciting! Put me down for more detail too! How much detail? Well, I don't know. Enough that I have a good understanding of how this all works, but I don't want to see each pass of the lathe either. I'm looking forward to seeing this project!
PLEASE tell me there's more videos on this! I tried skimming through your videos, but there's a toonnn of them (great for you guys, it's alot of work to put out that much quality content) and couldn't find any other bullet vids
Great to see someone doing this, with all the ability, so please as much detail as possible, thanks
Thank you. I want to learn how to draw smaller stuff. My goal is to draw cups for making primers for rifles and pistols and to draw brass for making rim fire rounds. Starting with 22 long rifle, but I would also like to be able to draw cases for 41 Swiss Rim Fire. The most important by far are the cups for primers. I do not have a machine shop. So far I have been making dies for swaging 22 long rifle bullets (no jackets) and dies for sizing the brass for 22 LR. I use a drill press and a dremel with diamond bits for machining.
just convert your vetterli to centerfire, it's so much easier then loading rimfire brass
Are planning to sell these at any time?
Thx for your great videos!
After seven years I'd bet you have already done it just ran across this I hope you have given every detail ! I'm starting from scratch again .
I am indeed. Yeah, it's solid! The only downside is the belt ratio changes. The variable speed setup is the way to go
Quick question for you.
Able to make a tool to make large pistol primer cups and also a tool for make the anvil for them too.
That right there is something I may be very interested in and possibly pursuing
As a very old Tool & Die Maker I sure like to see others with the born ability to concieve and produce stamping and forming dies of all type. Very nice work! My best projects were deep form dies for all sorts of parts. I like your work and wonder if you have thought about pressure extruded copper or brass alloy casings. A small puck is placed down in a female form cavity and a form punch is pushed in which reverse extrudes the material up the sides forming a casing. Soda and Beer can technology
Absolutely fascinating, and excellent timing! Please include as much detail as possible, and if this works out for you I'm sure there would be much interest in a brass casings test as well.
could this process be used to make primer cups?
Yes. Also, I don't know how you'd be able to make the anvil part of the primer.
Nice instruction video. Do you know ifs it possible to make jackets out of stainless steel or is that not ductile enough? Maybe heat the piece first?
cant wait to see it. make it as detailed as you can.like some of the other guys have said you make really good videos so being a little long wont hurt a thing.
Please show more and with details so I can make my own!
Both. I use gas checks in my cast bullets. I had never though to jacketting the whole bullet. I'm wondering if I can resize a jacketed bullet.
I am also very interested in generic blanking and the making of progressive dies.
Paul
thank you very much for your presentations. how would a novice begin this sort of thing?
Nice videos. How hard would it be to fabricate a punch and die set to make primer caps and anvils for reloading? Primers are not currently for sale and I can only reload factory primers so many times. Thank You.
Nice, but how to get a reduced diameter at the end of the shell as it is, for example, in rifle cartridges or 7.63×25mm
I would like to see as much as possible! This is sooooo interesting! Realy good project!
Have a nice day!
You could probably make rimfire cases for old obsolete rimfire calibers like the 25 Stevens.
Don't forget about draft angles! Makes ejection so much easier.
I feel like they should be contacting you about teaching at the NY techshop when it opens
also, a detailed look at this project would be great - I've been wanting to see what would sort of metal forming tools could be made in a shop similar to mine
Genius!I'm doing a more primitive jacketing,turning a 1/2 copper plumbing cap into something similar to the .73 Fury for 12 ga.Also to make FMJ round nose for the same-shot out of 12 ga fully rifled ultra slug.
nice video i would like to see the whole process making you punches dies ect and the finished product
John,
Are you going to show how to make swaging dies? I would like to see how to make swaging dies.
thanks,
George
Instead of running it thru die after die after die, perhaps making a single multi-level die but using multiple sized push rods that fit each level so you could essentially push the one copper blank straight down from the top and by the time it reaches the bottom it is the size and shape to surround the bullet core?
Sure the tonnage is higher but the material metallurgy is very important. The material must be one that flows. Did you know that Kiddy Fire Extinguishers are formed buy extrusion? Great work and great video!
would case hardened mild steel work as a diemaking material? as in, you could roughly drill and grind the dies to shape out of mild steel, and then case harden them several milimeters deep before finish grinding, to make a hard and tough surface without having to spend like a hundred dollars on tool steel rod?
look up the exact metal type to find the right temperatures
to anneal then heat harden or case harden & then temper it
answer : yes, absolutely. you're welcome, me from the past!
I use soft iron which is very easy to get very hard due case hardening, very easy to do.
Can you use 3/8 copper pipe caps and swage them into 9mm jackets?
hi!please tell me the formula (or size) how to calculate the size of a copper billet for 308 caliber bullets ?what thickness is better to take copper ? and what are the diameters of punches and matrices to use when stamping?
I wish I'd've found your channel about two years sooner! I know you've had a lot of comments on the series, but I just hope you've gone into exhaustive detail about making bullet jackets. I have a small, and very old Craftsman bench lathe, but it'd work great for making the dies the way you've got them set up here. I like it, and I like it a lot! (Your series, on making jacket drawing dies, I mean.) I have a hand press that has lots of the muscle that's needed for moving metal. This is actually exciting for me!
Can you make a mold for a . 32 cal teatfire cartridge casing mold?
what about thicker hardened steel jackets(then using a copper jacket over that, of course)?
Details, every little gritty one.. (and we have missed your videos!)
Would love to see all steps. Doesn't matter if the video is 5 minutes or 50, as long as there is good content then we will watch. You put up good content so don't worry about time.
So the stories go that Joyce Hornady and others began their bullet making businesses using .22 LR cases to make their bullet jackets. Have you tried that approach?
This is truly fascinating!
I would like ALL the detail I can get.
I am a NEW mini Lathe owner. Used wood lathes a lot. have 2 so know some.
I load my own and can't afford to buy all these dies to make from.
Also plan on turning my own loading dies in the near future.
Looking for a mini mill.
You betcha I am interested in more videos along this line. It is the main agenda that brought me to buying a lathe. Got me started, now I gotta get a mill.
Would love to see the whole process to a final product. Would buy the plans to make my own as well. Great job
What are the dimensions for the dies and what caliber is this for? Also what aluminum and what steel would be best? I was thinking 6061 or 7071t6 aluminum and O1 tool steel round stock.
fun qu for you . by any chance could you make some gas check dies that are very simple . say for a .224 that would be a 223, .277 that would be a 270 , .260 for a 25-06 and the fun one a .243 for a 243 ..
what would you charge for a one stage gas check die, maker.
Every detail please! :)
Brother, can you publish the drawings of this set of tools? We need this set of tools in other countries.
What about the press power as tons, sir?
Man, the channel is gold 👌 ❤ wish I could find it earlier. This is exactly what I have been looking for.
I’m a little late to the party but I’d love to watch the whole machining process
If I buy a tool from Finland is it of "finish" quality ?
Can you make your own cartages and primers too? I'm at a point where I'm thinking of doing my own ammo making because I can't reload my ammo if I don't have any to begin with!
primers can be done
the cup is this but smaller
the anvil will be harder to do
eph20/26 is your best bet for live priming
I also would like to know if these will be for sale?
Would love to see more on this project!
U have a good voice and are a good speaker. U sound like we want to listen to what u have to say instead of wanting to press stop and look for other vids
Very interesting. I’m subscribed. How do you plan to add lead and tapper the nose. Originally, jacketed bullets were open on the bottom.
Didnt know you were a shooter too. Thats cool you are making coining and drawing dies. Do you have a punch press? They are SUPER affordable at auctions. Like sub scrap. Last couple i seen were the little 5 ton that went for about 50 bucks a pop. With production tooling in the machine. {you know they are nearly worthless without at least some tooling}
Could you please make your cad files public so we could use them? Or if you sell them how much please?
Can you release plans for the dies?
A pretty complex process!
please make detailed vids about bolets
do you or would you sell a set up like that. I would love to make my own jackets with some dies and a press since I currently cast my own bullets.
Hello Do you still have the Cad Model
you can go direct to the carriers websites like DHE {dependable highway express} redding, swift, whatever you see on teh side of the truck. You can get similar quotes right off their sites, but freight quote allows you to compare them quickly and easily. on the flip side i used uship site to quote moving a bandsaw 180 miles and all were well over 1000 bucks. if its palletized, LTL freight is CHEAP.
لطفا هل يمكن ارسال المخطط الداخلي لهذه الادوات لكي استطيع صناعتها لانني بحاجه ماسه اليها
I vote for all the details!
would you consider making a set of these dies to sell?
how much does a set of dies like this cost?
Could these dies be made to work with the many Reload presses available, or are shop presses needed for the extra convincing?
Perfect video. I would like to see it all.
Hey no problem! I used to be a ebay power seller/china importer. I could ship a ton of crap {literally} from china to my doorstep, on a couple pallets for 1200 bucks. the part the caught my attention was when i read the bill. 800 of it was administrative fees! it was under 500 for the actual sea freight and train freight and eventual break out to a lift gate truck for home delivery! Most of these places like uship are just RAPE. smalltime carriers, no liability.
Hi John. I enjoyed the most of your Great and High quality Videos. I wanna see the complete Series of your Projekt. Greets from Germany
Oh, I forgot to mention that after my dad sold his T&D shop I went to work for an old German guy who was licensed to manufacture handguns for S&W many of which were made on the old style machines (now antiques). Of course newer designs (1985+) were created on cnc.
Please can I know the dimensions ? thickness of the cut billet and final shell, dimensions of punches and dies
Что не получается, попробую помочь рассчитать ?
Yes would like to see much more detail 😊👍
want to see lots of detail
I'm certainly not in the know! lol Just thinking out loud....might spark an idea in a bigger brain somewhere :)
Which side will it tend to stick to? Male? Female?
Out of curiosity, how much would you charge for a setup to make 7.62x39 jackets at .311?
I would like to see a lot of detail. I'm very interested !!
SUCH AN AMAZING THING, SWAGING IS AWSOME!.
Could you please advise the source book you reference; and where you buy specific steels.
I am trying to get a 10-20 steel for amateur smithing, and can't ask at local home depot. No one can get beyond technician now a days. But basically - I am trying to learn metal and working metal. Heat and Hammer/Machining/whatever.
Oh....the punch/die would have to be longer/taller to accommodate the added steps. If it would work, you'd only have to extract twice instead of four times.
Finally ! Somebody making a full video on how FMJ ,s are made.
Hi, do you sell ready to use machine punching dies? I am intereseted if so....