Oh, and by the way, I think they covered this in 747-400, 757, 767, A-320 and MD-11 school at Sundstrand when I was there. They also covered it at GE locomotive school. I'm not sure, but Kenworth, Caterpillar and a few other manufacturers had it in their curricula. The problem with diagnostics and electrical education today, after 30 years in the business, is people who aren't intelligent enough to realize it can be simple. Some need it to be hard so they can abuse others who don't know.
I have your tool and it's freaking great. Simple to understand, I don't understand why people be hating on this diagnostic tool. I hear people say "just use a test light". A test light doesn't show u the actual numbers.
Also it's another tool. Load Pro is always with the DMM. DMM is needed to check battery voltage so already in your hand, test light is another tool to grab. Am Considering purchasing the Load Pro.
@Northropfam The circuit must be powered -- that's the advantage. If you pull the component you'll read open-circuit voltage at that location with both red & blk leads in the connector. No jumpers, no disconnections, no ohmmeter, etc. Just try to make the circuit work normally -- then use the tool to read voltage. If you see normal voltage you can't have open or short to gnd. Push button - if voltage doesn't drop, no corrosion. That's all that can be wrong and you ruled all 3 out with one test.
It works on amy analog circuit, including sensor drivers (5V-8V). Not used on sensor inputs. My method tests wires and confirms they have or haven't failed, and since 80% of faults occur in wires, this seems to be better odds. Any wire can be isolated, energized and loaded --- all you have to do is set up the test. However, you have to be willing to put the time into the setup.
Daniel Sullivan Hello im a fan i bought one for me and one for my pops I have a question for you about the way it works on 5 volts system if you could reach out to me of possible thanks
Yep - you work back towards the battery or out to the ground. It's really pretty simple - especially if you learn the ghost and true zero voltage process.
@bivideo7 It's worked for me so far and I've used one version or another for years. I am interested in your tool just don't get what's different from a voltage drop and "loaded voltage"
Fantastic! Once you've determined which side the corrosion is at, do you continue to use that tool to find the exact location? Also you are opening the circuit to do this test, correct?
@Northropfam Loads the circuit so you can see an instantaneous voltage drop. Do a search for LOADpro on UA-cam. Works with a digital meter to find corrosion.
@Northropfam My only comment about the Powerprobe is that it fails in two critical modes, and the voltmeter he put in it (because of my tool) has no resolution. If you check ground on your finger, with your hand touching ground, you get a full green light and beep. If you read voltage through up to 15KΩ resistance you'll get 12V and a red light. The point suggests poking holes, & there's no ghost & zero voltage. In short, I think the philosophy is bad; red & green lights aren't diagnostic tools.
...except the load... I was referring (perhaps not as effectively as I could) to the assumption most have that disconnecting all of the connectors and using jumper wires to "ohm out" the circuit is the only way to test wires.
So what happens when you put your DVM into resistance mode and hit the button on the Loadpro with both of the leads open or floating? Does it read 100 ohms?
The statement that there "only three faults that can occur in a wire" may be a generality or blanket statement that can be accepted in low voltage D.C. , truck,marine, or automotive electrical work. In A.C. work that statement would be challenged. There are fault conditions and anomalies that can affect the wires, signals, volt,amp,ohmic values, capacitive coupling,inductive&capacitive reactance,multiplexing,phasing and frequency to name a few.. If the tester or test leads in the video help simplify anything for anyone especially troubleshooting vehicles I am all for it and the illustrated equipment may have never been designed for testing in industrial plants or A.C. systems. Years ago there was a special analog tester, "Du Pont Blasters Multimeter" (my granddad was a blaster) that had a Red "press to test" button that tested for stray current when using E.B.C.'s,(electric blasting caps). Pressing the test button placed a resistor across the input terminals (load) then any stray or dangerous (current) could be read directly using the millivolt scale. Your tester or probe appears to have a similar feature for loading a circuit.
@bivideo7 Well, I'd like to learn what you're teaching. I'm always open to learning new techniques especially if it saves me time. It's funny I argue with guys all the time about power probes too. I always get someone telling me how it blows up computers and it's bad but it's only bad if you don't know what you are doing with it. It's worked fine for me and I like it but I understand what I'm doing (well most of the time)
because I am learning, I have a rather simplistic question. what if the corrosion is on the ground side of the circuit? What reading on the VOM should I expect to find? TIA
This is possibly true. However, the lesson was about more than simply finding corrosion. It was also about open and shorts, and KNOWING what's wrong, not hoping. There are a lot of work-arounds for everything, but if you're experienced enough to understand what you just explained, why would you want to use 2 tools to get an incomplete answer instead of one tool to know exactly what the fault is? This tool is only part of the voltmeter-only method - ghost and zero voltage are very powerful.
The question you need to ask with this tool is whether the *wire* is operational or not ("good" and "bad" do not mean anything in a diagnosis). Wire is 80% of the problems - this is a circuit test - not a component test. What do you think?
This is a great question. Sooooo, if the compass locks on the solenoid then there is no electrical problem. That is, if you've located the issue down to a solenoid, this is simply a test that checks if the wiring is correct. Locking means no electrical wiring issue, not locking is otherwise... I think.
Dan,there is a way around this. If you read system voltage and there is a resistor behind it,you could always doublecheck by hooking a test light to it,if the test light lights then you have true voltage it it doesn't then it is not true voltage.
It doesn't do anything useful. There needs to be voltage present for them to work - because they do a voltage drop. If you push the button on Ohms it just tests the tool.
The tool applies a load to the circuit by turning it on - when you push the button. The tool becomes a substitute load. Without that feature you're only seeing static, unloaded open-circuit voltage. That means the wire cannot be open or shorted-to-ground --- that's the ghost V and zero V readings. The loaded voltage should remain high - if it does, the wire isn't damaged. If it drops, the wire has resistance.
Dan, One thing I don't understand is when you read the "System" voltage, how come the 5K ohms (corrosion) did not interfere with the reading by bringing the voltage down? How come the "System" voltage still reading 12V? Are the probes by passing the 5K ohms? I am trying to figure out what the circuit look like in a diagram. How does the LoadPro probe figure into the circuit, series or parallel to the 5K ohms? Iooks like series. You said it is acting as a load. I am still confused. How does the LoadPro load bring the voltage done?
Kirchoff's law. Series resistors. The LOADpro is in series with the corrosion (fault) and when you depress the button the two resistance have to share the total voltage. The reason the voltmeter doesn't show the drop is that it can't. That's what the LOADpro does and why you need it.
Dan, I understand Kirchoff's laws (KVL and KCL). If the components are in series, the total voltage should be the sum of voltages of all the components. Since LoadPro is in series with 5K ohms, the total voltage should be system voltage as well, but it is not. I am trying to figure out what circuit configuration in the LoadPro that makes the system voltage to drop. I guess I have to buy one and cut it up and see. I am not trying to steal your invention. I am curious about the circuit in the LoadPro and how it works. When I was in EE school back in 1986, my favorite subject was circuit analysis.
Some people can have every tool made and not be smart enough to use it correctly. These people don’t understand how the things they are working on function so the tools will never help them. For those people I suggest removing all wires and components replacing them with all new. Eventually you will accidentally change the bad part at someone’s expense. 😂
Way, way too simplistic. I guess if you are just a garage door repairman then these kind of explanations are OK. What if you have a voltage drop due not to corrosion, but due to a stranded wire having all it's strands broken but one? That will have a voltage drop across that section of wire due to the reduced cross sectional area. You will read a system voltage at your buzzer/bell/alarm but the buzzer won't make a sound because of the large voltage drop due to the wire being nearly broken.
Had the load pro for 3 yrs. What made the tool even better is all the videos you made 12hrs ago.
Oh, and by the way, I think they covered this in 747-400, 757, 767, A-320 and MD-11 school at Sundstrand when I was there. They also covered it at GE locomotive school. I'm not sure, but Kenworth, Caterpillar and a few other manufacturers had it in their curricula. The problem with diagnostics and electrical education today, after 30 years in the business, is people who aren't intelligent enough to realize it can be simple. Some need it to be hard so they can abuse others who don't know.
I purchased the load pro last week and I love it .The price and what it can do for shortening the diagnostic time is worth every penny.
Thank you
I have your tool and it's freaking great. Simple to understand, I don't understand why people be hating on this diagnostic tool. I hear people say "just use a test light". A test light doesn't show u the actual numbers.
Also it's another tool. Load Pro is always with the DMM. DMM is needed to check battery voltage so already in your hand, test light is another tool to grab. Am Considering purchasing the Load Pro.
I am going to buy a load pro for sure ASAP. You are a great teacher thanks.
Oh, man! This content is inspiring stuff. Especially, the two little tests at the end are cosmic!
This is pure gold. Period.
Dan,
Your video is great. This was what I wanted to teach my son. But I can show your video which much simpler than I could explain to him.
Dan i love this tool this is my second one thank you
Excellent class ...thank a lot
My right ear learned alot..!!
Outstanding thank you Dan
@Northropfam The circuit must be powered -- that's the advantage. If you pull the component you'll read open-circuit voltage at that location with both red & blk leads in the connector. No jumpers, no disconnections, no ohmmeter, etc. Just try to make the circuit work normally -- then use the tool to read voltage. If you see normal voltage you can't have open or short to gnd. Push button - if voltage doesn't drop, no corrosion. That's all that can be wrong and you ruled all 3 out with one test.
Thanks sir this clip very helpful 😃😂🤣👍👍👍👍frm sri Lanka ....
It works on amy analog circuit, including sensor drivers (5V-8V). Not used on sensor inputs. My method tests wires and confirms they have or haven't failed, and since 80% of faults occur in wires, this seems to be better odds. Any wire can be isolated, energized and loaded --- all you have to do is set up the test. However, you have to be willing to put the time into the setup.
Dan this tool is truley the best way to diagnosis eletrical auto faults the best
Nice video two thumbs up.
It was one of the first videos I did, and I was learning. Stand on your head and the left ear will catch up.
Daniel Sullivan
Hello im a fan i bought one for me and one for my pops
I have a question for you about the way it works on 5 volts system if you could reach out to me of possible thanks
great video
Excellent.
You are a great teacher. From your experience which is better an analog or digital meter
Yep - you work back towards the battery or out to the ground. It's really pretty simple - especially if you learn the ghost and true zero voltage process.
Do you have a video on this?
I've had this tool for a year and it's awesome dont understand why people hate on this tool!
Where do i get this tool??
Thank you.
@bivideo7 It's worked for me so far and I've used one version or another for years. I am interested in your tool just don't get what's different from a voltage drop and "loaded voltage"
@bivideo7 I see so the advantage is just that you can do a "voltage drop" on a circuit that not powered/component removed with the tool?
you are genius
Fantastic! Once you've determined which side the corrosion is at, do you continue to use that tool to find the exact location? Also you are opening the circuit to do this test, correct?
@Northropfam Loads the circuit so you can see an instantaneous voltage drop. Do a search for LOADpro on UA-cam. Works with a digital meter to find corrosion.
How would this work in low voltage HVAC 24 volts? Is there a video on the A/C 24 volts?
I recommend Dan book and loadpro kit
@Northropfam My only comment about the Powerprobe is that it fails in two critical modes, and the voltmeter he put in it (because of my tool) has no resolution. If you check ground on your finger, with your hand touching ground, you get a full green light and beep. If you read voltage through up to 15KΩ resistance you'll get 12V and a red light. The point suggests poking holes, & there's no ghost & zero voltage. In short, I think the philosophy is bad; red & green lights aren't diagnostic tools.
You mention in your video about not needing to replace an ecm. Does this mean you can use the loadpro on computer controlled circuits?
12V buzzer in the fuse holder during the harness shake test.
Daniel is this safe on automotive computers? I was taught that sending volt in a line could be damaging to computer.
...except the load... I was referring (perhaps not as effectively as I could) to the assumption most have that disconnecting all of the connectors and using jumper wires to "ohm out" the circuit is the only way to test wires.
You said a plain VOM will show system voltage at the bell; even though there's a drop at the corrosion?
So what happens when you put your DVM into resistance mode and hit the button on the Loadpro with both of the leads open or floating? Does it read 100 ohms?
Whats this copper to steel and why is it short to ground?
The statement that there "only three faults that can occur in a wire" may be a generality or blanket statement that can be accepted in low voltage D.C. , truck,marine, or automotive electrical work. In A.C. work that statement would be challenged. There are fault conditions and anomalies that can affect the wires, signals, volt,amp,ohmic values, capacitive coupling,inductive&capacitive reactance,multiplexing,phasing and frequency to name a few.. If the tester or test leads in the video help simplify anything for anyone especially troubleshooting vehicles I am all for it and the illustrated equipment may have never been designed for testing in industrial plants or A.C. systems. Years ago there was a special analog tester, "Du Pont Blasters Multimeter" (my granddad was a blaster) that had a Red "press to test" button that tested for stray current when using E.B.C.'s,(electric blasting caps). Pressing the test button placed a resistor across the input terminals (load) then any stray or dangerous (current) could be read directly using the millivolt scale. Your tester or probe appears to have a similar feature for loading a circuit.
+Flickchaser The 120VAC version is coming.
Anything up with the 120VAC version?
Uh, yes and no. Capacitance, impedance, and noise do have their part but that's it. Everything else he more or less said is true for ac aswell.
Nice- now if it could find intermittent shorts that would be awesome!
Where can I buy a set? Great videos
What is the button you are pressing? My meter doesn't have any buttons on the probes if that is where it is.
Is your microphone plugged in well? All the audio in this video is coming out of the righthand channel. Also, there is a noticeable 60Hz buzz.
Probably 50Hz since it's american
Why do you need to shake the probes to check ghost voltage?
Please i need this load pro test how do i get it
@Daniel Sullivan, what happened to your website?
Do you teach an electrician class an if so how can I apply
In the first two minutes you say you don't have to unhook anything but you did- did I miss something ? Thanks for your response
@bivideo7 Well, I'd like to learn what you're teaching. I'm always open to learning new techniques especially if it saves me time. It's funny I argue with guys all the time about power probes too. I always get someone telling me how it blows up computers and it's bad but it's only bad if you don't know what you are doing with it. It's worked fine for me and I like it but I understand what I'm doing (well most of the time)
Nice earth loop on the audio!
because I am learning, I have a rather simplistic question. what if the corrosion is on the ground side of the circuit? What reading on the VOM should I expect to find? TIA
The voltage drops AFTER the corrosion. That's why you put BOTH red and black lead in the connector first. Watch the video on voltage drop.
How does this tool work with multiplex systems? I really like this tool.
What is multiplex.
WHen can't you press the button? When will it become part of the circuit and destroy your multimeter?
I'm not getting any audio channel on this video.
Audio is on right channel only
What exactly is the button?
What does the button do on the lead? I don't have that on my multimeter.
Did you ever find out what it does?
I was wondering the same?? Must be a dum question cuz there is yet to be an answer lol
He is selling a load tester lead. The probe has a resistor that imitates a load.
Sir, I wanted to own one, how do I get it? Pl, advise.
Hi Dan, is your book available for purchase on its own? Thanks
Yep. Check Amazon or www.esitest.com
How about it? Or rather, WHAT about it? I really can't answer your question... I'll try but I need a little more detail.
does this tool work with ac electricity?
He never replied back to you I see.
This is possibly true. However, the lesson was about more than simply finding corrosion. It was also about open and shorts, and KNOWING what's wrong, not hoping. There are a lot of work-arounds for everything, but if you're experienced enough to understand what you just explained, why would you want to use 2 tools to get an incomplete answer instead of one tool to know exactly what the fault is? This tool is only part of the voltmeter-only method - ghost and zero voltage are very powerful.
1. How about digital electricity and main line AC ?
@bivideo7 sounds interesting. Are you a member of IATN?
...only when current is flowing... A standard DVOM can't complete the circuit to se a drop - that's what the leads do.
Where do I purchase this tool?
Amazon or with a discount code direct with ESI. orders@esitest.com
Can you use it on a 28v dc circuit
Yep - this version is 28.5VDC/AC
@daniel sullivan please create a lead pro for AC
There's a 120VAC version. Contact orders@esitest.com
@@bivideo7 Can't find it on your site.
@@iwillnotcomply7145 CONTACT orders@esitest.com
so that means the solenoid is good or bad?
The question you need to ask with this tool is whether the *wire* is operational or not ("good" and "bad" do not mean anything in a diagnosis). Wire is 80% of the problems - this is a circuit test - not a component test. What do you think?
This is a great question. Sooooo, if the compass locks on the solenoid then there is no electrical problem. That is, if you've located the issue down to a solenoid, this is simply a test that checks if the wiring is correct. Locking means no electrical wiring issue, not locking is otherwise... I think.
Dan,there is a way around this. If you read system voltage and there is a resistor behind it,you could always doublecheck by hooking a test light to it,if the test light lights then you have true voltage it it doesn't then it is not true voltage.
It doesn't do anything useful. There needs to be voltage present for them to work - because they do a voltage drop. If you push the button on Ohms it just tests the tool.
You look so young in this Vid bud lol!
my meter does not have a BUTTON what does this button do ?
impressive
What happened to the sound ??
I don't understand the button you are pushing, and the idea of taking the ground out. If you could clearify it for me I appreciated. Thanks.
The tool applies a load to the circuit by turning it on - when you push the button. The tool becomes a substitute load. Without that feature you're only seeing static, unloaded open-circuit voltage. That means the wire cannot be open or shorted-to-ground --- that's the ghost V and zero V readings. The loaded voltage should remain high - if it does, the wire isn't damaged. If it drops, the wire has resistance.
Thanks, Dan.
Dan,
One thing I don't understand is when you read the "System" voltage, how come the 5K ohms (corrosion) did not interfere with the reading by bringing the voltage down? How come the "System" voltage still reading 12V? Are the probes by passing the 5K ohms? I am trying to figure out what the circuit look like in a diagram. How does the LoadPro probe figure into the circuit, series or parallel to the 5K ohms? Iooks like series. You said it is acting as a load. I am still confused. How does the LoadPro load bring the voltage done?
Kirchoff's law. Series resistors. The LOADpro is in series with the corrosion (fault) and when you depress the button the two resistance have to share the total voltage. The reason the voltmeter doesn't show the drop is that it can't. That's what the LOADpro does and why you need it.
Dan,
I understand Kirchoff's laws (KVL and KCL). If the components are in series, the total voltage should be the sum of voltages of all the components. Since LoadPro is in series with 5K ohms, the total voltage should be system voltage as well, but it is not. I am trying to figure out what circuit configuration in the LoadPro that makes the system voltage to drop. I guess I have to buy one and cut it up and see. I am not trying to steal your invention. I am curious about the circuit in the LoadPro and how it works. When I was in EE school back in 1986, my favorite subject was circuit analysis.
Some people can have every tool made and not be smart enough to use it correctly. These people don’t understand how the things they are working on function so the tools will never help them. For those people I suggest removing all wires and components replacing them with all new. Eventually you will accidentally change the bad part at someone’s expense. 😂
Way, way too simplistic. I guess if you are just a garage door repairman then these kind of explanations are OK. What if you have a voltage drop due not to corrosion, but due to a stranded wire having all it's strands broken but one? That will have a voltage drop across that section of wire due to the reduced cross sectional area. You will read a system voltage at your buzzer/bell/alarm but the buzzer won't make a sound because of the large voltage drop due to the wire being nearly broken.
Whats this copper to steel and why is it short to ground?
Most vehicles have the chassis as the ground path and they are steel, this will normally bypass the load and blow the circuit fuse.