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Thank you, we agree!!! We're working on it :-) Thank you for your support! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Glad that our video was help for you 👍 ----------------------------------------------- To help support us: 1) Please be sure to use our Amazon Links! 2) Please ensure you LIKE our video's, and SUBSCRIBE to our channel! 3) Donations always welcome! Hit the SUPER THANKS option below the video on UA-cam, or by PayPal: www.paypal.me/youwrench Thank you for your support!
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Glad we could help 👍 ----------------------------------------------- To help support us: 1) Please be sure to use our Amazon Links! 2) Please ensure you LIKE our video's, and SUBSCRIBE to our channel! 3) Donations always welcome! Hit the SUPER THANKS option below the video on UA-cam, or by PayPal: www.paypal.me/youwrench Thank you for your support!
You should check out “Eric the car guy” He’s probably got a video on how to do a fuel filter. I must tell you if you’re going to do a job like this, definitely make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal from that point on it’s simple, use a flathead screwdriver or a socket and remove and replace . Make sure the arrow is facing the same direction that it was before you removed it. That’s very important!
Glad you found our video helpful :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Glad it was helpful 👍 --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by hitting the SUPER THANKS option below the video on UA-cam, or by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you SUBSCRIBE to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please LIKE our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Excellent! Glad we could help you out :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
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Interesting, but rather than measure Volts it's best to measure resistance. Wether it's Volts or Ohms the circuit needs to be under some sort of load. A test lamp (with a bulb) places a load on the circuit. LED ones don't. Proper electrician's Ohmmters stress the circuit with about 300mA at 12V so provide a reliable indication of a poor connection. On a car, continuity readings should be
Using resistance is a static measurement u need a dynamic measurement which is LOADED circuit ( vehicle running) Use your volt meter and check for voltage drops the ground side should be
In my understanding that's a wrong test for checking the ground for any circuit beacuse the circuit u checking is not loaded yet and it's a possibility the ohm meter mislead you with wrong back emf readings, the best way to check gnd ckt is use your test light with one probe at negative and after loading the ckt check the ground block or terminal if it's glow it is a bad ground🇵🇰🇵🇰
i would consider this a test for an open ground, open circuit... a ground fault would be a short to ground. if were switching across the ground or the positive results would change.
@@SicarioDistrepoyou're comment was not requested, ever. Ever think of that before leaving an unnecessarily jerk-off comment which added absolutely nothing to either confirm or deny the original comment? You see, the purpose of THIS comment, (which is also not requested by anyone) is to expose your ignorance. Apologies for the rudeness.
YW, your lesson was clear and precise. How do I check whether my car battery is draining when engine is off. With engine off if I take the voltage reading between the +ve and +ve terminals and also between the positive and the grounding terminat, say at 12.14 and after an hour if I check the voltage again connecting the multimeter as before and if the voltage is less than 12.14 does that indicate that the battery is being grounded through some application such as the central locking or the theft alarm or the stereo [ i mean the gadgets that are suposed to be working even when the engine is off' Can you plese guide in this matter with Regards and thnking you for an excellent video
Great vid..so once you have established a faulty ground is the next procedure to track the said wire back and locate where the issue is?...specifically i have a renault master 2013...think i have narrowed it dwn to an electical issue...posdinly a ground from one of relays in bonnet fuse.... identifying where though is my next issue..going to look for other vids of yrs and see if i can find. If u got any tips they b appreciate d Cheers ag as in
Thank you :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
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Batt positive to ground in voltage is not a reliable way to test for a GOOD ground. 1 single strand of wire would give you the same 12+volt reading. Check how much resistance is in the ground.
Awesome video! Got a question, I'm recently having some voltage fluctuations while turning hazards lights on, it varies from 0.2 to 0.4 volts, it's also perceptible as an small vibration on my car, do you think that issue could be related as a faulty ground connection also?
Issue with your methodology; A ground fault can PREVENT a vehicle from running. Which is possibly why you typically measure in ohms to find a ground fault, rather than voltage
A ground fault does not just have to prevent a vehicle from running... It could be anything from a bulbs shorting out to ground to a bad engine to chassis ground causing a misfire or worse (fire after a throttle cable is used as ground if engine ground is left disconnected).. I agree ohms should used to measure resistance between two points of contact to find a bad connection or wire. Volts is normally used to check if the charging system (alternator) is working properly, but this video is a good idea to check for "parasitic drain" caused by devices drawing power while the engine is off
@@OidHunter I didnt say has to, I said it CAN prevent it. Not that it always will, but uts always a possibility when dealing with grounds. Depends what grounding point has issues
When I do this test on my old Buick, the display on the meter shows only zeros. If I use the POS terminal to do the probing then I get a valid reading.
Hello, what if you do what you did on the grounding points, and it has all 0's, when your battery is good? Just trying to make sure I am understanding this right.
It is an indication that the CONNECTION is solid if no voltage drop. Series circuits drop voltage at each load. A loose or corroded connection BECOME an unwanted load. comment please
Could I make a point here - you checked voltage on the battery , then where the negative terminal is attached to the body - that will show that the wire from the battery to that point is transmitting power ( would also need checking under load - cranking the engine ). What this would not show is a poor connection between the cable and the body - often where rust or oxidation occurs . If you cleaned the paint off the body there you could confirm whether the battery earth is good through that joint - which is high in the list of culprits for earth faults . Good video otherwise .
Yes, actually we did. The video is here: ua-cam.com/video/sNy2QiRzzjE/v-deo.html Hope that helps! 👍 ----------------------------------------------- To help support us: 1) Please be sure to use our Amazon Links! 2) Please ensure you LIKE our video's, and SUBSCRIBE to our channel! 3) Donations always welcome! Hit the SUPER THANKS option below the video on UA-cam, or by PayPal: www.paypal.me/youwrench Thank you for your support!
Could you use the multimeter on diode setting and touch the negative terminal and whatever spot you're testing? You should get a beep or near a dead short reading for a good circuit. Is there anything wrong with this strategy?
I tried your method of finding a ground fault. The display on the Klein multimeter showed zeros when I used the negative probe to touch the car engine or body. When I used the positive probe I got valid readings. What's up?
My friend's truck will not start and they are telling him it is a wiring issue, they have had it for over a week and haven't found the faulty wire yet. What should he do? He says it turns over but does not start, I say check your starter, but he insists he has a good starter. I said the same thing until my stopped, it gave me no warning, it just went to one click, and so I took out the battery first and had it checked, found a bad cell so I bought that, then it still would not start just the same thing, one click, so I got the starter off took and got another one, it started. How can he be so sure his starter is good? It is trying to start but it won't engage. How can he know it isn't the starter?
Well the solution, once you've found your ground fault, could be 1 of 1,000 things. But if you specifically mean the engine ground strap we noted in this video, we replaced it: ua-cam.com/video/sNy2QiRzzjE/v-deo.html 👍
Hi there came back home all is well in the car park in the drive way when i start the car nothing no crank but battery strong i just replace the motor starter last year the ground strap in the engine looks new the only bad ground strap i see is in the tale pipe exhaust its all gone you think that will enough to contribute not to start the car?
My multimeter won't reach all my grounds, having trunk mounted battery. I understand I will need to use wire or cable to complete the connection as needed. My question is, would I see a difference in voltage having to complete the circuit with let's say an appropriate quage wire, vs solely multimeter? Or could I use the power wire closer to ground I'm checking? Hope that makes sense and my wording was direct enough to understand. Thanks in advance 👍
Disregard as after commenting, I scrolled down and saw my question had already been answered. Well the main question anyway. If you have any info on others I asked, would be much appreciated 👍
Hey there! The thickness of the wire you use is not really that important because it is not under any load to simply take a reading with a multimeter. So pretty much any wire will do for extending into hard to reach areas if just doing these kinds of basic ground fault searches. The voltage should stay the same, or near as dammit as again it's not under any real load. Yes, you can use a power wire closer to where you are working if you have to, HOWEVER if you get strange results you will likely also want to re-test with it direct to the battery before you consider it a definite fault as you don't know what circuitry is between the battery and that live wire that could affect the readings. Direct to the battery is definitely the best way to go for ground fault testing!!
@@YouWrench My 95 Ford ranger keeps blowing starter fuses. Do you have any ideas as for what maybe causing this? I check ground to the battery and also the starter wires..Please,Please respond. Thanks
My resting voltage is at 11.9 on a new battery, new alternator and new wiring. When I go down hill and take my foot off the gas my voltage goes to 14.5 but when I put my foot on the gas and accelerate the voltage drops down to 11.9. Then every now and then when I drive my voltage stays at 14.3.. but most of the time its at 11.9.. Any idea on what could be the issue?
Hey there! No, that would be very unlikely. Everything that needs to be weather sealed typically is (or at least starts out that way). You have to remember how much water from rain and spray the bottom of the car is subject to. It is possible that paint could have got in somewhere it shouldn't (like a connector for example). But simply painting a screw or bolt head should not typically cause a ground fault. Hope that helps 👍
Yes, it is a possibility. However, the xenon ballasts can and do go faulty, it's far from uncommon. You could test the earth going into the plug of the xenon ballast and check it's ok. Be careful working on ballasts, they hold a charge and can be dangerous. Always follow the safety information on the sticker!! Best of luck! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
@@YouWrench I have sorted it turns out BMWs dont like non genuine xenon bulbs!! I contacted them and wait for it .............£214 each!! I found a guy on ebay who was selling two genuine ones for £60 got them and worked a treat. Thanks for the advice also got a second hand genuine Ballast which is working good. now both fire up at the same time.
Multimeters generally do not come with a 12v setting. The standard setting to use for 12v applications is 20v. It does not matter that it is almost double because the multimeter is only reading the voltage that is present, it is not putting out any power. Also you want a setting that is higher than you are reading to allow for fluctuations. Is you used 12v and the reading came in at 12.2v it would not be able to read it and could, in theory, damage the tool. 20v is the correct and standard setting for 12v applications. Hope that helps 👍
Hi there. What tool are you using? Tone generator based, I'm assuming? Just a bit of personal experience...I've found faulty, intermittent, and broken leads that were still fully insulated on the exterior. Toyotas and GMs are silently notorious for this, especially in between the doors to the body of the particular vehicle.
@@FarAboveDaCloudz I was using a wire tracer with the tone effect option on it Thank you for sharing your experience about broken faulty wires, that were still fully insulated on the exterior it’s hard to imagine but I guess you can come across it every once in a while.
Hi.. what if my battery is in the boot ? i have miata nb with ground problems, bad moise in acceleration, left side speaker, and loud his. any ideas please ?
I bought some extension leads that have alligator clips on the ends from Amazon. Clip one end to the battery, the other to your test lead for the multimeter. Combine leads for even more reach. If needed, wrap a rag around the connection of the clip & lead or clip to clip so it doesn't touch anything it shouldn't.
You can just use a piece of wire between the point you need to test and the battery as an extension. Please be VERY careful with trailining wires though as you don't want to short anything! You should securely connect (clamp ideally) the wire to the grounding point, then run that wire back towards your engine bay and now you can touch the end of the wire as if you were touching it directly on to the grounding point you wish to test. Hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
@@Bl4ck7411 Unfortunately having a good connection for the battery does not mean that there are not any ground fault issues. Nor does it mean you do have issues. You only need to run the test/s if you suspect something is faulty. Hope that helps!
Thanks Sir for your expertise and information. My 07 Mercury Milan Premier V6 3.0L had the exact same problem with fuse number 44 constantly blowing. I had found burned wires on top side of the engine cover near the left top motor mount but I still have a fault code for O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 in which is the downstream sensor therefore I replaced the old O2 sensor with a new O2 sensor but the fault code is still present with the check engine light on. Any suggestions would help and thanks again for your expertise and help.
Disconnect the positive and negotiate battery cables there should be a red wire on the positive that goes to your frame lousen it isesomesandpaper to scuff it up a bit getwhatrust or else in on it thow when you recontect that ground leave the battery cables off for six to ten minutes hook it all back up it should take care of the check engine light thow it may come back on again may not I've I changed some much stuff on my car I do it every time I do install something knew as far electrical components then turn the but don't start it up let it chime and stay out for few minutes then turn key off wate a few and start it up you don't start it rulite away it's relearning it proper signals from the ecu
What about using the multimeter for a grounding point inside the car? Can I use a spare battery or does it have to be connected to the running battery in the car?
No, you would not use another battery. But you can use any grounding point. The entire chassis of the car is grounded, so if you have some bare metal, or an unpainted screw head connecting into the body you can just use any point that's near what you need to test. You can also touch the negative into the rear of an electrical connector on the ground pin too. You're generally never far from a grounding point, so it's usually not an issue. --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
That would depend entirely on what it is that has the ground fault, and where! But the first initial stage before you can fix something is to find out where the issue lies, and that's the process outlined in this video. The testing process is pretty much the same for everything, but the repairing process varies a lot depending on what the fault is and where it is. Hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
@@YouWrench thank you yes I am just not very good with electrical problem's thanks again for life easy for us backyard mechanic's the shops and dealers wanna take you to the cleaners
Well, the easiest way is to remember that the chassis of the car is grounded. So all of the ground points for whatever component you will be testing will link back (and often be connected directly to) the chassis. I hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by hitting the SUPER THANKS option below the video on UA-cam, or by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you SUBSCRIBE to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please LIKE our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
I also have some electrical issue with my car. When i roll my windows all the way to the top, my engine rpm drops. Same thing happens when i turn my hydraulic steering. The only electric upgrade I've done to my old car is installing a battery from Mercedes 660a 60ah
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Hello and ty but the most important part I feel wasnt covered and so when you find ground fauts how do you fix them?
Awesome video, very simple to understand and follow. Great job my friend!
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤😅@@Jesse-qg7hp
This video actually shows how to check faulty ground. Thank you.
Absolutely the best five minutes to a working solution
I dislike electrical issues but I think now I can go into finding a grounding PCM issue much easier. Thanks!
Sounds like your working on a Volvo I'm trying to find the same issue on my V70R
Great delivery, compact advice, no gibberish, very helpful.
Finally someone that explains it that I can understand ,thankyou much xx
Simple, articulate and effective. Thank you very much 🇮🇳
Glad we could help :-)
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You should have more likes, helped a bunch. Well done thanks
Thank you, we agree!!! We're working on it :-) Thank you for your support!
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Once you learn this, it seems so obvious! Thank you!!
Thank you for being concise and to the point. I understood this video easily.
Glad that our video was help for you 👍
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@@YouWrench but dont have another video to explain what cause and repair it
thanks sir isaac newton, I now know how to repair my electrical issues by myself. just subscribed!
Thank you!
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Wow, that's a great visual with the block ground! Thanks!
Excellent video, clear and informative, keep them coming.
QUICK-WITTED, You Wrench
Start to finish loved it
👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 19:46PM Good Evening
I will echo the other comments, finally a video on car electrical issues that I can actually understand
Glad we could help 👍
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Off topic, but can you do a video on how to change the fuel filter? Your videos are always so helpful. It would be much appreciated!
You should check out “Eric the car guy” He’s probably got a video on how to do a fuel filter. I must tell you if you’re going to do a job like this, definitely make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal from that point on it’s simple, use a flathead screwdriver or a socket and remove and replace . Make sure the arrow is facing the same direction that it was before you removed it. That’s very important!
Very simple and educational well done
Glad you found our video helpful :-)
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Great video thank you the only person who made it make sense to me
Simple to the point, thank you
Glad it was helpful 👍
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Absolutely nailed it for me. Subbed and thank you Sir.
Excellent! Glad we could help you out :-)
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Fantastic video. Straight to the point. Great work
Clear and concise. Great video. Thank you ❤
Thank you, glad it was helpful for you :-)
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Very good content, thank you.
Glad you liked it!
excellent explanation. great teacher
Thank you, hope it was helpful for you! :-)
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I have done some research and have some points that I would like to investigate. But, I will test this. Thank you.
Glad the video was helpful, and best of luck!
thank you so much clear and precise instructions new sub added
Excellent video, man! Thanks!
Best video, your such a good teacher nice an clear , ❤❤
Interesting, but rather than measure Volts it's best to measure resistance. Wether it's Volts or Ohms the circuit needs to be under some sort of load. A test lamp (with a bulb) places a load on the circuit. LED ones don't. Proper electrician's Ohmmters stress the circuit with about 300mA at 12V so provide a reliable indication of a poor connection. On a car, continuity readings should be
Using resistance is a static measurement u need a dynamic measurement which is LOADED circuit ( vehicle running) Use your volt meter and check for voltage drops the ground side should be
Brilliant
Thank you 👍
In my understanding that's a wrong test for checking the ground for any circuit beacuse the circuit u checking is not loaded yet and it's a possibility the ohm meter mislead you with wrong back emf readings, the best way to check gnd ckt is use your test light with one probe at negative and after loading the ckt check the ground block or terminal if it's glow it is a bad ground🇵🇰🇵🇰
You Sir make it look so simple and easy?
Thank you explained it well and terms I understood
Thanks, brilliant.
You're welcome!
Sorted my son's VW Golf lighting fault out in minutes.
i would consider this a test for an open ground, open circuit... a ground fault would be a short to ground. if were switching across the ground or the positive results would change.
Your opinion was not requested. Ever.
Nick. I formally request your opinon.
@@SicarioDistrepoyour opinion on an opinion was not requested either, but that's what the comments section is for... 😂
@@SicarioDistrepoyou're comment was not requested, ever. Ever think of that before leaving an unnecessarily jerk-off comment which added absolutely nothing to either confirm or deny the original comment?
You see, the purpose of THIS comment, (which is also not requested by anyone) is to expose your ignorance. Apologies for the rudeness.
NICKS opinion,once again appreciated, thank you Nick
both grounds are important of course but the i read the negative is extremely important to be secure. eg chilton auto repair.
YW, your lesson was clear and precise. How do I check whether my car battery is draining when engine is off. With engine off if I take the voltage reading between the +ve and +ve terminals and also between the positive and the grounding terminat, say at 12.14 and after an hour if I check the voltage again connecting the multimeter as before and if the voltage is less than 12.14 does that indicate that the battery is being grounded through some application such as the central locking or the theft alarm or the stereo [ i mean the gadgets that are suposed to be working even when the engine is off' Can you plese guide in this matter with Regards and thnking you for an excellent video
Great video.
Very useful ....
Thank u
thank you for the good video i learned a lot
Great vid..so once you have established a faulty ground is the next procedure to track the said wire back and locate where the issue is?...specifically i have a renault master 2013...think i have narrowed it dwn to an electical issue...posdinly a ground from one of relays in bonnet fuse.... identifying where though is my next issue..going to look for other vids of yrs and see if i can find. If u got any tips they b appreciate d Cheers ag as in
Excellent, subscribed.
Awesome, thank you!
Very simple explanations thanks. I love it.
Perfectly done
Thank you :-)
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Thank you for this video.
Great video small and impressive
excellent video!
Great information.... Thank you
nice lesson!
Thank you!
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Batt positive to ground in voltage is not a reliable way to test for a GOOD ground. 1 single strand of wire would give you the same 12+volt reading. Check how much resistance is in the ground.
I just found out about what a pcv valve is. I just can't locate where it is in this vehicle.
Thanks for this video!
Awesome video! Got a question, I'm recently having some voltage fluctuations while turning hazards lights on, it varies from 0.2 to 0.4 volts, it's also perceptible as an small vibration on my car, do you think that issue could be related as a faulty ground connection also?
Good video, thanks.
I will try it , let you know tomorrow.
Issue with your methodology; A ground fault can PREVENT a vehicle from running. Which is possibly why you typically measure in ohms to find a ground fault, rather than voltage
A ground fault does not just have to prevent a vehicle from running... It could be anything from a bulbs shorting out to ground to a bad engine to chassis ground causing a misfire or worse (fire after a throttle cable is used as ground if engine ground is left disconnected)..
I agree ohms should used to measure resistance between two points of contact to find a bad connection or wire.
Volts is normally used to check if the charging system (alternator) is working properly, but this video is a good idea to check for "parasitic drain" caused by devices drawing power while the engine is off
@@OidHunter I didnt say has to, I said it CAN prevent it. Not that it always will, but uts always a possibility when dealing with grounds. Depends what grounding point has issues
When I do this test on my old Buick, the display on the meter shows only zeros. If I use the POS terminal to do the probing then I get a
valid reading.
Hello, what if you do what you did on the grounding points, and it has all 0's, when your battery is good? Just trying to make sure I am understanding this right.
I have a bad ground on my starter. Would this cause the battery to drain overnight?
Very informative video
Nice video thanks,,,how do we do a 5volys reference test,,???
It is an indication that the CONNECTION is solid if no voltage drop.
Series circuits drop voltage at each load. A loose or corroded connection BECOME an unwanted load.
comment please
Could I make a point here - you checked voltage on the battery , then where the negative terminal is attached to the body - that will show that the wire from the battery to that point is transmitting power ( would also need checking under load - cranking the engine ).
What this would not show is a poor connection between the cable and the body - often where rust or oxidation occurs . If you cleaned the paint off the body there you could confirm whether the battery earth is good through that joint - which is high in the list of culprits for earth faults .
Good video otherwise .
great video, did you fix the grounding fault on the mounting, if so is there a video on what you did
thanks
Yes, actually we did. The video is here: ua-cam.com/video/sNy2QiRzzjE/v-deo.html Hope that helps! 👍
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Could you use the multimeter on diode setting and touch the negative terminal and whatever spot you're testing? You should get a beep or near a dead short reading for a good circuit. Is there anything wrong with this strategy?
What about when the ground is further away than the multimeters cords can reach
Excellent
I tried your method of finding a ground fault. The display on the Klein multimeter showed zeros when I used the negative probe to touch
the car engine or body. When I used the positive probe I got valid readings. What's up?
My friend's truck will not start and they are telling him it is a wiring issue, they have had it for over a week and haven't found the faulty wire yet. What should he do? He says it turns over but does not start, I say check your starter, but he insists he has a good starter. I said the same thing until my stopped, it gave me no warning, it just went to one click, and so I took out the battery first and had it checked, found a bad cell so I bought that, then it still would not start just the same thing, one click, so I got the starter off took and got another one, it started. How can he be so sure his starter is good? It is trying to start but it won't engage. How can he know it isn't the starter?
good video
Love the video but how did you resolve it?
Well the solution, once you've found your ground fault, could be 1 of 1,000 things. But if you specifically mean the engine ground strap we noted in this video, we replaced it: ua-cam.com/video/sNy2QiRzzjE/v-deo.html 👍
@@YouWrench ok I subscribed
iget a ground fault when I had headlights on for the turning signal but not during the day
2010 dodge caravan
Tanks 🎉
Hi there came back home all is well in the car park in the drive way when i start the car nothing no crank but battery strong i just replace the motor starter last year the ground strap in the engine looks new the only bad ground strap i see is in the tale pipe exhaust its all gone you think that will enough to contribute not to start the car?
Is this voltage you mentioned in the video here universal like the 5V reference check is across all vehicles?
What would cause a test light to flicker when put on a ground
Wouldn’t an ohm test of the cable do the same thing?
I have a 97 mustang, when it's cold outside and I start it up the wipers come for a cycle. any idea what could fix that? everything else is great.
So how you test the fuse number 9 on honda civic that so called Back Up Fuse?
💯💯
How do you get to replace the strap?
Why does an engine mount need to be grounded?
My multimeter won't reach all my grounds, having trunk mounted battery. I understand I will need to use wire or cable to complete the connection as needed. My question is, would I see a difference in voltage having to complete the circuit with let's say an appropriate quage wire, vs solely multimeter? Or could I use the power wire closer to ground I'm checking? Hope that makes sense and my wording was direct enough to understand. Thanks in advance 👍
Disregard as after commenting, I scrolled down and saw my question had already been answered. Well the main question anyway. If you have any info on others I asked, would be much appreciated 👍
Hey there! The thickness of the wire you use is not really that important because it is not under any load to simply take a reading with a multimeter. So pretty much any wire will do for extending into hard to reach areas if just doing these kinds of basic ground fault searches. The voltage should stay the same, or near as dammit as again it's not under any real load. Yes, you can use a power wire closer to where you are working if you have to, HOWEVER if you get strange results you will likely also want to re-test with it direct to the battery before you consider it a definite fault as you don't know what circuitry is between the battery and that live wire that could affect the readings. Direct to the battery is definitely the best way to go for ground fault testing!!
@@YouWrench My 95 Ford ranger keeps blowing starter fuses. Do you have any ideas as for what maybe causing this? I check ground to the battery and also the starter wires..Please,Please respond. Thanks
I will go out and buy one for myself, No kidding. what do you do differently if your truck won't start?
How do you find a shortage in the tail lights wire
My resting voltage is at 11.9 on a new battery, new alternator and new wiring. When I go down hill and take my foot off the gas my voltage goes to 14.5 but when I put my foot on the gas and accelerate the voltage drops down to 11.9. Then every now and then when I drive my voltage stays at 14.3.. but most of the time its at 11.9.. Any idea on what could be the issue?
have you solved ?
How do you fix the problem?
If I painted the under side of my car is it possible I caused a ground fault if sprayed a screw or ground bolt accidentally?
Hey there! No, that would be very unlikely. Everything that needs to be weather sealed typically is (or at least starts out that way). You have to remember how much water from rain and spray the bottom of the car is subject to. It is possible that paint could have got in somewhere it shouldn't (like a connector for example). But simply painting a screw or bolt head should not typically cause a ground fault. Hope that helps 👍
Many thanks I have an issue where my xenon bulb keeps failing due to the ballast failing can this be caused by bad earthing?
Yes, it is a possibility. However, the xenon ballasts can and do go faulty, it's far from uncommon. You could test the earth going into the plug of the xenon ballast and check it's ok. Be careful working on ballasts, they hold a charge and can be dangerous. Always follow the safety information on the sticker!! Best of luck!
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@@YouWrench I have sorted it turns out BMWs dont like non genuine xenon bulbs!! I contacted them and wait for it .............£214 each!! I found a guy on ebay who was selling two genuine ones for £60 got them and worked a treat. Thanks for the advice also got a second hand genuine Ballast which is working good. now both fire up at the same time.
why did you get a multi- meter that doesn't have a 12 volt setting for car batteries ?
20 volts is almost double.
Multimeters generally do not come with a 12v setting. The standard setting to use for 12v applications is 20v. It does not matter that it is almost double because the multimeter is only reading the voltage that is present, it is not putting out any power. Also you want a setting that is higher than you are reading to allow for fluctuations. Is you used 12v and the reading came in at 12.2v it would not be able to read it and could, in theory, damage the tool. 20v is the correct and standard setting for 12v applications. Hope that helps 👍
Thanks for you answer to my question. Yes, that makes sense.@@YouWrench
👍
What if you use a wire tracer tool and the wire indicates there's a break in the line but there's no visual brakes what would you do?
Hi there. What tool are you using? Tone generator based, I'm assuming? Just a bit of personal experience...I've found faulty, intermittent, and broken leads that were still fully insulated on the exterior. Toyotas and GMs are silently notorious for this, especially in between the doors to the body of the particular vehicle.
@@FarAboveDaCloudz I was using a wire tracer with the tone effect option on it Thank you for sharing your experience about broken faulty wires, that were still fully insulated on the exterior it’s hard to imagine but I guess you can come across it every once in a while.
Hi..
what if my battery is in the boot ?
i have miata nb with ground problems, bad moise in acceleration, left side speaker, and loud his.
any ideas please ?
I bought some extension leads that have alligator clips on the ends from Amazon. Clip one end to the battery, the other to your test lead for the multimeter. Combine leads for even more reach. If needed, wrap a rag around the connection of the clip & lead or clip to clip so it doesn't touch anything it shouldn't.
As far as the stereo noise, is the stereo system aftermarket? Are you running a amplifier?
I have a ground point which is far from the car battery. The millimetres wire is to short to reach that point whats should i do ?
You can just use a piece of wire between the point you need to test and the battery as an extension. Please be VERY careful with trailining wires though as you don't want to short anything! You should securely connect (clamp ideally) the wire to the grounding point, then run that wire back towards your engine bay and now you can touch the end of the wire as if you were touching it directly on to the grounding point you wish to test. Hope that helps!
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@@YouWrench that’s look to much work . I checked the reading of the battery and its giving a good reading so I decided everything is good connected
@@Bl4ck7411 Unfortunately having a good connection for the battery does not mean that there are not any ground fault issues. Nor does it mean you do have issues. You only need to run the test/s if you suspect something is faulty. Hope that helps!
Thanks Sir for your expertise and information. My 07 Mercury Milan Premier V6 3.0L had the exact same problem with fuse number 44 constantly blowing. I had found burned wires on top side of the engine cover near the left top motor mount but I still have a fault code for O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 in which is the downstream sensor therefore I replaced the old O2 sensor with a new O2 sensor but the fault code is still present with the check engine light on. Any suggestions would help and thanks again for your expertise and help.
Disconnect the positive and negotiate battery cables there should be a red wire on the positive that goes to your frame lousen it isesomesandpaper to scuff it up a bit getwhatrust or else in on it thow when you recontect that ground leave the battery cables off for six to ten minutes hook it all back up it should take care of the check engine light thow it may come back on again may not I've I changed some much stuff on my car I do it every time I do install something knew as far electrical components then turn the but don't start it up let it chime and stay out for few minutes then turn key off wate a few and start it up you don't start it rulite away it's relearning it proper signals from the ecu
What about using the multimeter for a grounding point inside the car? Can I use a spare battery or does it have to be connected to the running battery in the car?
No, you would not use another battery. But you can use any grounding point. The entire chassis of the car is grounded, so if you have some bare metal, or an unpainted screw head connecting into the body you can just use any point that's near what you need to test. You can also touch the negative into the rear of an electrical connector on the ground pin too. You're generally never far from a grounding point, so it's usually not an issue.
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So if you get a grounding fault how do you fix it
That would depend entirely on what it is that has the ground fault, and where! But the first initial stage before you can fix something is to find out where the issue lies, and that's the process outlined in this video. The testing process is pretty much the same for everything, but the repairing process varies a lot depending on what the fault is and where it is. Hope that helps!
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@@YouWrench thank you yes I am just not very good with electrical problem's thanks again for life easy for us backyard mechanic's the shops and dealers wanna take you to the cleaners
I will also donate some time soon ok thanks very soon
tighten it. remove rust or corrosion.
New wires bud
How do you find all the ground points in a car?
Well, the easiest way is to remember that the chassis of the car is grounded. So all of the ground points for whatever component you will be testing will link back (and often be connected directly to) the chassis. I hope that helps!
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OK, thanks!@@YouWrench
I also have some electrical issue with my car.
When i roll my windows all the way to the top, my engine rpm drops.
Same thing happens when i turn my hydraulic steering.
The only electric upgrade I've done to my old car is installing a battery from Mercedes 660a 60ah
Your alternator has a problem or the connections to it need checking
Thx. For the useful information, I’ll give you and others some sound advice = don’t buy a Honda. Your welcome.
Very interesting, I'm actually watching this as I chase electrical gremlins on my mom's Acura!
With battery in the boot of the car- the logistics aren’t as simple as this makes out….!
I thought voltage on a wire should be close to 0 volts?
It is *after* a load. The battery, or power source, isn't a load.