Don't forget old school load testers are still the king, I have 2 electronic testers, both trade quality and one old school carbon load tester. I found the electronic ones passed a battery but my carbon load tester that draws between 100-150amps was showing the battery was very weak. So sometimes I use both.
Thanks for the comments Handyman, appreciate the feedback. The crazy thing is we are still daily driving that E46 with the battery 2 out of the 4 said to replace. That was more than 18 months ago so it seems there is still a little inaccuracy with these testers. We will keep our eyes out at the local garage/estate sales to find an old school carbon load tester to add to the collection. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage that's very insightful! I have a few big engined cars in the garage, and needed a reliable battery tester cause over the years, I've realized cars like the E46 were not even close to the battery requirements of cars E92/E93 and above. And when you go further into European exotics, it gets even crazier. They are EXTREMELY sensitive to low battery power. I currently have a 599 where one module is asleep shortly after a drive, with car refusing to start after, and battery vendor says battery is fine, when clearly it's not.
I've worked for several dealerships over the years, still do. And nothing is harder on a battery than sitting in a vehicle for different periods of time, not to mention temperature changes. In my opinion, a load test gives you the best information concerning battery life.... it won't tell you all the information a analyzer will, which is a important part of the diagnosis process, but if the load test is in the red or close to it, the battery's life is about over. I own a matco mbt 200, it's probably 4 or 5 years old and cost about $350 . It does a excellent job of sniffing out a bad battery, but I deal with a lot of battery's and the purchase makes sense for me because of the number of battery's I have to test. I do like the foxwell, only because it would probably handle a drop better, plus have a case to put it in would protect it in a garage environment.
@beri232 That longer cord is nice but for most testing it isn't really necessary. The only time it comes in handy is when you are doing the charging test and are alone. That way you can hook it up, pass it through the window and start the vehicle all by yourself to run the test. Thanks for the comments, Cheers!
Just picked the foxwell up for $109 with tax. I'll take the foxwell over the rest because of the longer cord and the rugged case and storage case. I have the Foxwell GT60 plus, and let's say my wife got pissed and me one day and slammed it on the concrete floor, and absolutely nothing happened to it and still works flawless. 💪 I mean, $30 more for a longer cord, carry case, and more durable is worth it to me.
I´m shopping for one of these devices right now. I guess I´ll get the Foxwell. Great video, gave me the tools to make a more accurate decision. Thanks.
well, 2 of these were right and 2 were wrong on whether or not to replace the battery. I know you say the battery continued to work fine, but that can be the case for any number of batteries that fail the test, so the question is, which tester is correct? Review was nicely done! No other YT has been this thorough
Thanks for the comments EP, appreciate the feedback. I think with any testing equipment you are going to get discrepancies. I'm not sure of the exact methodology they are using to come up with the rating. All I can say is that the battery in the E46 BMW is still working to this day and we haven't seen any issues thus far. I believe these testers provide you with good data so you can make an informed decision with regards to your vehicle charging system. They are great to just grab and get info without too much trouble. They have identified several known "Bad" batteries very accurately. These are batteries that we also took to a local parts store to test using their equipment. At the end of the day, I would choose the one that you think fits your budget and what you are looking for in a tester. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage interesting, did you see any more false Good or false Replace on any of the other batteries or was this 50-50% anomaly only on the one BMW battery? If I recall, the Konnwei showed the BMW SoH at just 68%
All of the other batteries came up REPLACE. The thing we noticed was the State of Health (SOH) was way below 50% and in some cases it was below 10%, so those batteries were obviously at the end of life. The E46 battery definately showed a little weakness, even on the two testers that rated it good. I think it was on the borderline of Good/Bad but it still cracking along. Guess we shall see how much longer it will last, Cheers!
Well I can only praise TopDon's tech support for it's very prompt response(less than 8 hours) to my question accuracy of the battery being tested in or out of vehicle. Here is their response: "There are two versions of AB101. The old version needs to be divided into in car or out of car when the battery is detected, as well as the battery charging state. The new version has optimized the calculation method and does not need to set in car or out of car, and charging status. The test results are accurate."
Our only complaint with the Topdon is the testing speed. It is considerable slower when compared to the other models. Other than that, the results seem to be good and haven't had any issues with the unit. Cheers!
@@JR1068 Thanks for the comments JR. We just wanted to show the differences in scan time for each unit. From the slowest to the fastest tester, there is almost a 7 second difference. But at the end of the day, it's only a few seconds as you stated 😎 Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
The Konnwei and the Ancel's suggestions to replace the battery is not accurate, an internal resistance of 4.02mΩ is still at least a 97%-98% good battery. The SOC reading of 12.8V reading is suspect and a little high and should read 100%. Since the TopDon AB101 does not have an option setting for an In/Out of car mode it would be interesting to see what the difference is with the battery in and out of the vehicle settings.
We agree with you, it seems kind of weird that those two testers provided a different result with very similar measurements as the other two. We put that battery back into our E46 and it has been working since we made the video. So it seems like the battery is still good and hasn't given us any problems. Cheers!
@E Tow You are correct, any internal resistance of 0 to 5 mOhms indicates very good battery, 5 to 10 a good but used one, and above 11 mOhms you need to replace it. The Topdon has actually more battery testers, who are far superior to the one tested here, and I do mean BT100 and BT200 (this is the more expensive). All in their range give rapid results of under 3-4 seconds, but this is irrelevant, what counts is the precision and they are spot on. Cheers!
@@aerofan3827 The secret is to keep the battery fully charged at around 12.5V to 12.6V at all times. The car's charging system can only charge the battery to around 80% in the best case scenario and that is with with frequent highway driving of 20 minutes or more and a new charging system(alternator) so the battery is always at a deficit no matter how good the car's charging system is. Investing in a battery maintainer and topping it up every 2-3 weeks is crucial in prolong the battery life from 3-4 years to 12-15 years.
Thanks for the info E Tow. We use the small Battery Tender for any of our cars that don't get driven on a regular basis. www.batterytender.com/battery-chargers That way they are always fresh and fully charged. Cheers!
@@aerofan3827 Resistance also depends on a type and capacity of a battery. 800CCA battery will have a lot lower resistance than 400CCA battery. These testers usually calculate test by measuring how much current can you draw before battery drops under 9V (Usually 3V across internal resistance). For example: at 9:34 you can see that it measured 3.44mOhm resistance and it calculated 871A because at that current draw you will have 3V drop across those 3.44mOhms. That means that smaller batteries might be good even with higher resistance (10mOhm for 300CCA) EDIT: Measurements aren't same for all ratings, this was just example for CCA.
Glad you enjoyed the video Peter, appreciate the feedback. You won't be disappointed with the color screen on the Ancel BA301 and the speed, it's crazy fast. Have fun with your new tester, Cheers!
Thanks very much for your hard work and time. It seems to me the foxwell is the best. But I wonder if that kind of money is justified for home use like a regular guy who is not a mechanic and just wants to check battery from time to time. On the other hand, Konnwei is great price but if it mislead you into buying a new battery before time then it is making you waste money. I'm undecided
Thanks for the comments Carlos. We agree that the Foxwell BT705 is a bit much for home use, given it's price tag and the overall size. We feel the Ancel BA301 is the best buy, with a great color screen and lighting fast operation. But at the end of the day, they all provided similar results and can definitely point you in the right direction regarding your current battery issue. Appreciate the feedback, thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
A manual car battery load tester is probably the best bet. No fancy gimmicks or electronics to mess with. Just hook up the clamps and let the load tester do its thing. On sale for around $20 ~ $25 the manual (analogue) car battery load tester is a little more chunky to carry around but the old school battery testers are tried and true for at least the last +70 years. Not nearly as portable as the new fancy digital car battery testers but at least it performs exactly like a car battery tester should.....
Thanks for the comments Bob, sometimes the old school technology works the best. Next time we will include the old school methods during our testing of new tech. Appreciate you sharing your thoughts and hanging out. Cheers!
They don't test the alternator's charging ability. They don't record in the same detail. Slow cranking speed is a vehicle's load test. People know that a 4 year old slow engine cranking problem is a bad battery. These are quick, lightweight and take a few seconds to use. You can check your battery regularly for miniscule changes or charging rate changes. I've borrowed the "tried and true" load testers.... But after buying my Topdon I see no need for a load tester..... I'll never waste my time using one of those easy bake oven types again. 😁
Thanks for sharing, they all get the job done at the end of the day. It just comes down to how much would you like to spend and does speed matter. $18 is sweet deal though congrats. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I wanna know about the difference in why 2 testers said the battery needs replacement and the other 2 said it was a good battery. Somebody is wrong.
@@dman357 Not sure why the testers came up with different results. All we can say is that we are still using that Interstate battery in our E46 BMW to this day. It has never had an issue or caused any problems. Cheers!
Found this review very helpful. As google reviews etc aren't always what they are cut out to be. Still scratching my head how two say the battery should be replaced and two say battery is good. I agree with you must be the algorythym. But I'd tend to go for the cheaper one that says the battery is still good as it would save me from potentially changing out a perfectly good battery.
Hey David, glad you enjoyed the video. We can't explain the difference in the testers either. All I can say is we are now more than 7 months after the test and that Interstate battery is still going strong in our BMW E46. From the 115 degrees heat to the now high 20's at night it is still cranking good. Any of the testers will provide plenty of info. It just comes down to which features you are more interested in and go from there. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@JR1068 That seems to be the case JR. Since two testers sad it was bad and two said it was good, it must have been right on the line based on their algorithms. Thanks for the comments, Cheers!
Good video but you sound just like the guy from Project Farm's channel. I'm sure you know who he is because your start of the video introducing the devices it's exactly like his, not sure if you were trying to poke fun or you simply liked his delivery. Good overall video.
Hey Miami, thanks for the comments. Todd is a great guy and we love his videos. He has definitely been an inspiration for doing videos on things we are already using or we want to get for the garage. Appreciate the feedback though, glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Im not an expert but during the very first test my gut feeling was the battery still had life left. I would favor the two testers that rated the battery good vs bad. Of course that would be if I weren’t having problems with the battery. Good test, thanks for sharing
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. We are still using that Interstate battery in our E46, so it was definitely good. Still doesn't make any sense why the two testers said to replace. Maybe it was right on the border of their algorithm. Cheers!
I think the only reason I'd go with the Foxwell is that I can complete all of the tests from the drivers seat while holding the device (that extra long cable comes in handy).
Thanks for the comments Garrett, appreciate the feedback. The long cable on the Foxwell is tough to beat. I know it was on promo just recently for around $98 which is a great deal. Cheers!
Maybe in the future you can use a Volt meter to show if there's a difference in the Volt readings from the battery analyzer itself. I buy midtronic's units as I find them to be a 100% accurate to a volt meter. Good video 👍
Thanks for the suggestion, it would be interesting to see the baseline on the voltage using a control. Glad you enjoyed the video, appreciate the feedback, Cheers!
I use one of those cheap Chinese made 12 volt cigarette lighter voltmeters and they work like a charm! Just watch the voltmeter reading as you start the car's engine and if the voltage doesn't drop below 9.6 volts while cranking car's engine over the car's battery will be still fine! They're only $3 off TEMU as well. This way there is no need to open the hood or get out the multi-meter or do anything whatsoever. Just plug the unit into the cigarette socket and watch the voltage readings as you crank the engine over. It's dirt cheap and super effective!
@@dreamrelaxation7239 I also have an old school solid chrome Chicago Electric manual load tester to load test the car battery as well. The 12 volt cigarette lighter tester and manual load tester only cost me about $25 Canadian together. I really like these two things for car battery testing and using this route to test car batteries is quite inexpensive as well. I can also easily save $100 and find a used battery and test it with the manual load tester as well. The manual battery load tester is tried and true since the 1950s.... and works like a charm! New tech stuff is nice but I personally prefer using old school stuff that I have a better understanding of how they are designed.
Please be fully aware that it is just a hair distance away for the last tester to show the battery needed to be replaced since the SOH is 80%. If it were 79%, it would show replacement. As a result, either we can trust the three showing replacement or the TOPDON showing good battery.
Thanks for the comments Yang. The crazy thing is we are still using that battery in the E46 to this day. That's one of our daily drivers so it's still holding on. Not sure what to say about the test numbers and why different units have different results. All we can say is that the battery is still going strong. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Haha, I just got a new 48H6 battery (730cca), used the 208 to test it, and the result was good. I also tested a 39-month 24F battery (750cca). It is 69% SOH (about 500 CCA left), but it is strong enough to start the car. I believe it is all about the CCA. Even though it showed to replace the battery, the 500CCA is still strong enough to start the car. Actually, the new cheaper Walmart 24F battery has only 585CCA. It is the same in your case that your battery is still strong enough to start the car even though the testers showed replacement.
I can confirm that the cheap 208 is very accurate. I was at Advance Auto yesterday, and I asked them to do a battery test. At 70F temperature yesterday, Advance tested the battery(12.67 volts, 577 CCA). I used the 208 to test it and it showed a very similar result (12.65 volts,565 CCA).
Hey SuperJoes, we agree the Foxwell cable length is impressive. For those Euro cars with batteries in the trunk or under the backseat it helps with access. It really comes down to your application and what features will work for your situation. Thanks for the feedback, Cheers!
Given that the Foxwell was an outlier for internal resistance measurements, it would've been interesting to see you measure it with a good multi-meter. That would've given more info on accuracy.
Thanks for the comments, we wanted to use our Multi Meter for the video but it literally died during the first test so we had to scrap that idea. Hopefully we were able to show the differences between the various price points of battery testers so it can help with your decision. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Hey Jack, thanks for the comments. We are using the most recent 2022 edition of the Foxwell. It seems as though they have added some features since the 2016 model. Appreciate the feedback, Cheers!
Hey Gamer, thanks for the question. In Vehicle testing gives you the ability to not only check the battery voltage condition but it also allows you to check your cranking ability and your charging ability in your vehicle. Out of the Vehicle testing will only allow you to test just the battery and no vehicle components. Hope this helps clear things up, Cheers!
It just to remind you to turn on the headlights for 10 seconds to reduce the so called surface charge of the battery. It's mostly useless and the results this kind of testers puts out should always be taken with a grain of salt.
Thanks for the comments, we are not sure why we got conflicting data with the couple testers. The funny thing is, we are still using that Interstate battery in our E46 to this day. So it seems like the (2) testers were accurate in saying the battery was still good. Cheers!
SOH is just an easy to digest number retrieved from a table mostly based on the internal resistance and rated current you put in. The key value that you have to look for is the measured internal resistance, but first you need to know which value to expect (as this depends on the rated current of the battery) and how this value is influenced by other factors: for exemple the internal resistance increases with a decrease in state of charge of the battery. SOC is also spit out from a table based on the voltage of the battery and has it's own quirks. This kind of measurements, or mostly the estimation they provide in terms of SOH/SOC is not an exact science and this is true even for the most expensive testers of this kind. All provide guesstimates which should be taken with a grain of salt.
Thanks for the question. Most cars today use the regular flooded lead acid battery type. You will find AGM batteries in a lot of the European brands, BMW, Audi, Mercedes and Porsche. They are also used in motorsports applications, dirt bikes, quads, side by side, jet ski's etc. The AGM batteries are clearly marked AGM (Absorbable Glass Mat) on the label so you will be able to tell. Just take a look at the label and you will get the info you need to run the tests with the battery tester. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@drumtum: My 2021 Jeep Gladiator battery (ACDelco 94RAGM) is AGM, and really don't see FLA batteries much anymore. When I do, it's usually when people buy them to replace their original/factory/OEM battery as FLAs tend to be cheaper -- but I recommend they go AGM and leave FLA in the past. They were fine then (and for decades !) but nowadays I can't see any reason to go FLA anymore for one's car/truck. BTW, I recently got a battery tester like these here, but mine was from Harbor Freight ("Viking" brand, $39.99, SKU = 58759). Can't know for sure it's accuracy, but the "bad" batteries it has reported are definitely (known) bad, and the "good" batteries are also as reported...so I am concerned why two of these testers shown here said batteries were "bad" when I didn't see any of the data (test results) they reported confirming they ARE bad (like internal resistance values, which were low enough to be "good"). Something's definitely wrong there... -- BR
Thanks for the comments Anthony, sounds like you got a sweet deal on the Foxwell. With the prices how they are these days, it's nice to hear someone getting a good deal. Cheers!
Thanks for the comments Dave, appreciate the feedback. We just wanted to show the differences between the products and let the viewers decide which features worked for their application. Next time we will grab the voltmeter to provide a baseline measurement. Cheers!
Hey Dennis, thanks for the question. Unfortunately, no they are all made in China. We have not been able to locate a battery tester that's made in the USA. These small electronic devices all seems to be made in China, just like most of the tools these days. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
nice video but don’t really get the whole battery tester thing… l’ve owned various vehicles during 20 years and you can simply feel when a battery is going bad when starting your engine during cold weather… put a battery charger with regen mode on it and it will give you some extra months. Once it still has trouble starting the car even after charging then you know it’s the very end and should start looking for a new one
Hey Manuel, thanks for the comments. My son is still using the Interstate battery in his E46 BMW to this day. That battery is over 5 years old now and has not given him any issues. Thanks again for hanging out, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Thanks for the questions Jay, hope this helps answer the question. When the engine is running, an alternator generates electrical energy to supply the vehicle’s on-board electrical systems and replace the battery charge consumed during cranking. The alternator converts mechanical rotation to electrical energy by causing a magnetic field to rotate within a fixed set of windings. The changing magnetic field induces AC voltages within the windings, which are rectified by an arrangement of diodes to give a DC output. The maximum output is limited by a voltage regulator, which varies the alternator output relative to the system voltage; when the system voltage is low, the regulator increases the alternator output, and vice versa. The rectification of the generated AC current creates a continuous series of voltage pulses, a ripple, within the alternator’s output. Periodically missing pulses or disruptions within the ripple indicate a problem with either the windings or the rectification diodes. Sharp spikes, usually downward, between the pulses indicate diode failure and the presence of unrectified AC voltage in the circuitry. The alternator output will vary with engine speed and electrical load. However, a consistent ripple must be maintained throughout these variations. Turning on electrical consumers and increasing the engine speed will increase the alternator load which can provoke faults that are not evident at low loads. If the peak to peak output voltages are above 500 mV, the offending voltage spikes may disrupt other electrical systems, in particular those systems dependent on an AC signal. In other words, the battery testers that have the "Ripple" function can give you an idea that your alternator is going out or is on it's last leg. Even if you are getting 14-14.5V with the car running, it may still be having spikes in voltage and a bad diode. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Wow , thanks for the in-depth answer ! So would I be right in thinking that , say you do have alternator which has a phase which is dying but still working , would that show as a repeat down spike in intervals , on that ripple graph ?
@@jayk2k If you have a tester that shows Ripple, you should see fluctuations on that test and that will mean your alternator has an internal issue and should be checked out. Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
Thanks for the question Elite, we found them all to be very similar with little differences here and there. It really comes down to feature preferences and looks. Our preference would be the Ancel BA301, with its color screen, fast operation, small size and ergonomics, it does a great job without breaking the bank. Good luck in your search, Cheers!
Thanks for the comments Burleigh. Prior to the test for each battery tester we hooked them up and set them to the proper CCA settings in an effort to make the video more efficient. All the CCA were properly set for each battery tester before carrying out the test. We hope this clears up any confusion about the way each were tested. Thanks again for watching, Cheers!
Thanks for the comments, it's still unclear as to why 2 out of the 4 said the battery was bad. The funny thing is we are still using that Interstate battery in our E46, over two years now. Bottom line is these testers can just provide you with some information, doesn't necessarily mean they are always accurate. Cheers!
Thanks for the suggestion MM, the ECT3000 looks like a pretty kewl tool to check for shorts and tracing in a vehicle. Might have to add that one to the wishlist for a later purchase. www.powerprobe.com/na/en/ECT3000 Cheers!
Thank you for the comparison! 😃👍 I think ALL of them do their job while the 2 cheaper ones are perfectly for private usage. The Topdon AB100 has 10 different standards for measuring while the Konnwei KW208 has just 9 (it lacks the Chinese "GB" standard). The languages... well, everything different from English was automatically translated🤭🤦♂️. Even as a German I'd keep it in English. 🤪😂 In the low price range also exists the Topdon BT50. This has 4 keys aswell. If you go down to less than €/$/£ 20.- you will find battery testers without cranking test, without charging test and without EN/DIN standard at all. Better spend 10 to 15 bucks more and having a charging test!
Appreciate the feedback U.E. We agree that all of the battery testers seem to perform very well. They all provide very similar measurements and have a variety of features. You can definitely opt for an even lower cost tester if you are willing to give up some of those features. Just figure out what tests you may be performing, what your budget is and purchase accordingly. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
My preference is, WHEN TO REPLACE BATTERY.......... All tessters have close to same numbers but two say battery needs to be replaced and two say battery is good, to me that is a BS answer!!!!!!! The main reason for me to buy a battery tester is to know for sure when battery needs replacement, I get a clearer answer out of watching Brandon..............
Thanks for the comments, we agree it can be confusing. The crazy part is that Interstate battery is still in our E46 to this day and is working fine. No idea why those (2) testers said it was bad, especially when the values were very similar with all of the testers. We are just using these as a baseline and not necessarily relying on them for a definitive answer. Cheers!
Hey Corey, yeah it seems like the Konwei is now down to $24 and the Topdon is down to $27 so that's getting pretty cheap. Thanks for the comments, Cheers!
🌺🌷🌵🌴🎁🌹🌲🕊Your method of explanation is easy and the person understands it quickly, with a focus on explaining the content, as much as you wish to explain the device foxwall gt 75 ts bi dirrectional scon tool with ecu cooding tpms relearn program 31+sevices all system car diagnostic scanner Please and I wish you would upload a video about this device and explain the method clearly. I am from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. I listen to you and explain it, which is understood very quickly and smoothly🤟🤘🤙🤞✌👍🤚
Thank you for the kind words Ali, we appreciate the feedback. We will look into testing that Foxwell GT75 scanner. It looks like a very comprehensive scan tool albeit with a hefty price tag. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
If the results vary SO MUCH and are "questionable", as per your own statement, they all suck, it's that simple. Use the old style load tester. Who needs all these "measurements" to later find out that "good" battery is actualy garbage...
Thanks for the comments Bryce, appreciate the feedback. While we saw some variable results with these battery testers, they still have a place in the toolbox. For as little as $30 you can get an idea of the battery condition and you can test the charging system so it's worth while to have. Now, the old school style load testers are also great and can be picked up for super cheap as well. It really comes down to what you are looking for and what your needs are. Cheers!
Thanks for the comments, it was strange getting those (2) testers to recommend replacement versus the other (2) saying it was good. The funny thing is we are still using that battery in our E46 to this day. It is still working great, now two years later. Cheers!
Thanks for the question, they all seemed to have similar results. The only thing that was different between them was the algorithm that determines whether the battery is good or should be replaced. The funny thing is we are still running that Interstate battery in our E46, that (2) testers said should be replaced. That has been over 2 years now and it is still running like a champ. At the end of the day they all provide good information to help you make an more informed decision about the health of the battery and charging system. Cheers!
Hey Dave, the BMW battery was definitely on the fence since it was a split result. We are however, still using that battery in the E46 so it still seems to be working good. Not sure when it will eventually die I'm sure but we will keep driving it until that day happens, Cheers 😎
Nothing wrong with Project Farm and this comparison review was EXACTLY what I was looking for before spending my cash. This guy did a good job and did not favour the sponsoring brand. I give him 👍🏼👍🏼
Hey PacketAttack, I wasn't able to locate any battery tester comparison video that he performed. There's no doubt he makes great videos though. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Thanks for the comments pagepro, appreciate the feedback. Almost all of the values are less than 1% different with SOH and Resistance being the outliers at 6:07 On the other test at 12:21 we have a similar result with the outliers for SOH and Resistance being the main discrepancy. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage at 1 2 : 2 1 you used 850 CCA for all the devices yet even though Konnwei, Ancel and Foxwell measured more than 850 CCA for the SOH, the Konnwei and Ancel accurately said the SOH was 100% but the Foxwell said it was below (85%) even though it actually measured higher at 866CCA, like wtf, Foxwell is giving mixed bag basic calculation for being a known brand.
@@BradleysGarage6 : 0 9 and how can you say the values are less than 1% different with SOH when a device displayed 61% SOH and another device displayed 80% SOH which is a total difference of 19% SOH and not 1% SOH you said using the chart you provided.. you are not doing the basic math are you?
Thanks for the comments, not sure why the Foxwell was giving mixed values. I mentioned those two SOH and Resistance values are the outliers. All of the other values are within 1-2%. Cheers.
It just seems like the Foxwell has a different algorithm in determining the Resistance in the battery. Maybe it is more strict in it's measurement and therefore provides a harsh evaluation. We need to try a brand new battery to see how the Resistance would compare to get a more accurate idea. Cheers!
Don't forget old school load testers are still the king, I have 2 electronic testers, both trade quality and one old school carbon load tester. I found the electronic ones passed a battery but my carbon load tester that draws between 100-150amps was showing the battery was very weak. So sometimes I use both.
Thanks for the comments Handyman, appreciate the feedback. The crazy thing is we are still daily driving that E46 with the battery 2 out of the 4 said to replace. That was more than 18 months ago so it seems there is still a little inaccuracy with these testers.
We will keep our eyes out at the local garage/estate sales to find an old school carbon load tester to add to the collection.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage that's very insightful! I have a few big engined cars in the garage, and needed a reliable battery tester cause over the years, I've realized cars like the E46 were not even close to the battery requirements of cars E92/E93 and above. And when you go further into European exotics, it gets even crazier. They are EXTREMELY sensitive to low battery power. I currently have a 599 where one module is asleep shortly after a drive, with car refusing to start after, and battery vendor says battery is fine, when clearly it's not.
I've worked for several dealerships over the years, still do. And nothing is harder on a battery than sitting in a vehicle for different periods of time, not to mention temperature changes. In my opinion, a load test gives you the best information concerning battery life.... it won't tell you all the information a analyzer will, which is a important part of the diagnosis process, but if the load test is in the red or close to it, the battery's life is about over. I own a matco mbt 200, it's probably 4 or 5 years old and cost about $350 . It does a excellent job of sniffing out a bad battery, but I deal with a lot of battery's and the purchase makes sense for me because of the number of battery's I have to test. I do like the foxwell, only because it would probably handle a drop better, plus have a case to put it in would protect it in a garage environment.
Thanks for the comments Shannon, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
Only thing about the Foxwell that I like is the longer cord and that isn’t worth the extra $$$
@beri232 That longer cord is nice but for most testing it isn't really necessary. The only time it comes in handy is when you are doing the charging test and are alone. That way you can hook it up, pass it through the window and start the vehicle all by yourself to run the test.
Thanks for the comments, Cheers!
Just picked the foxwell up for $109 with tax. I'll take the foxwell over the rest because of the longer cord and the rugged case and storage case. I have the Foxwell GT60 plus, and let's say my wife got pissed and me one day and slammed it on the concrete floor, and absolutely nothing happened to it and still works flawless. 💪 I mean, $30 more for a longer cord, carry case, and more durable is worth it to me.
@@JohnColeman-ul5rj sounds like you need a new wife
I´m shopping for one of these devices right now. I guess I´ll get the Foxwell. Great video, gave me the tools to make a more accurate decision. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed the video Edo, appreciate the feedback. Good luck with your purchase, Cheers!
well, 2 of these were right and 2 were wrong on whether or not to replace the battery. I know you say the battery continued to work fine, but that can be the case for any number of batteries that fail the test, so the question is, which tester is correct? Review was nicely done! No other YT has been this thorough
Thanks for the comments EP, appreciate the feedback. I think with any testing equipment you are going to get discrepancies. I'm not sure of the exact methodology they are using to come up with the rating. All I can say is that the battery in the E46 BMW is still working to this day and we haven't seen any issues thus far.
I believe these testers provide you with good data so you can make an informed decision with regards to your vehicle charging system. They are great to just grab and get info without too much trouble. They have identified several known "Bad" batteries very accurately. These are batteries that we also took to a local parts store to test using their equipment.
At the end of the day, I would choose the one that you think fits your budget and what you are looking for in a tester.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage interesting, did you see any more false Good or false Replace on any of the other batteries or was this 50-50% anomaly only on the one BMW battery? If I recall, the Konnwei showed the BMW SoH at just 68%
All of the other batteries came up REPLACE. The thing we noticed was the State of Health (SOH) was way below 50% and in some cases it was below 10%, so those batteries were obviously at the end of life.
The E46 battery definately showed a little weakness, even on the two testers that rated it good. I think it was on the borderline of Good/Bad but it still cracking along. Guess we shall see how much longer it will last, Cheers!
Well I can only praise TopDon's tech support for it's very prompt response(less than 8 hours) to my question accuracy of the battery being tested in or out of vehicle. Here is their response: "There are two versions of AB101. The old version needs to be divided into in car or out of car when the battery is detected, as well as the battery charging state. The new version has optimized the calculation method and does not need to set in car or out of car, and charging status. The test results are accurate."
That’s why I bought a Topdon scanner It’s a Pro the tech service and support is Great!!
Our only complaint with the Topdon is the testing speed. It is considerable slower when compared to the other models. Other than that, the results seem to be good and haven't had any issues with the unit. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage 5 seconds difference?!? lol Topdon was the ONLY unit that didn't overstate CCA, there's that 😊
@@JR1068 Thanks for the comments JR. We just wanted to show the differences in scan time for each unit. From the slowest to the fastest tester, there is almost a 7 second difference. But at the end of the day, it's only a few seconds as you stated 😎
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
The Konnwei and the Ancel's suggestions to replace the battery is not accurate, an internal resistance of 4.02mΩ is still at least a 97%-98% good battery. The SOC reading of 12.8V reading is suspect and a little high and should read 100%. Since the TopDon AB101 does not have an option setting for an In/Out of car mode it would be interesting to see what the difference is with the battery in and out of the vehicle settings.
We agree with you, it seems kind of weird that those two testers provided a different result with very similar measurements as the other two.
We put that battery back into our E46 and it has been working since we made the video. So it seems like the battery is still good and hasn't given us any problems. Cheers!
@E Tow You are correct, any internal resistance of 0 to 5 mOhms indicates very good battery, 5 to 10 a good but used one, and above 11 mOhms you need to replace it. The Topdon has actually more battery testers, who are far superior to the one tested here, and I do mean BT100 and BT200 (this is the more expensive). All in their range give rapid results of under 3-4 seconds, but this is irrelevant, what counts is the precision and they are spot on. Cheers!
@@aerofan3827 The secret is to keep the battery fully charged at around 12.5V to 12.6V at all times. The car's charging system can only charge the battery to around 80% in the best case scenario and that is with with frequent highway driving of 20 minutes or more and a new charging system(alternator) so the battery is always at a deficit no matter how good the car's charging system is. Investing in a battery maintainer and topping it up every 2-3 weeks is crucial in prolong the battery life from 3-4 years to 12-15 years.
Thanks for the info E Tow. We use the small Battery Tender for any of our cars that don't get driven on a regular basis.
www.batterytender.com/battery-chargers
That way they are always fresh and fully charged.
Cheers!
@@aerofan3827 Resistance also depends on a type and capacity of a battery. 800CCA battery will have a lot lower resistance than 400CCA battery. These testers usually calculate test by measuring how much current can you draw before battery drops under 9V (Usually 3V across internal resistance).
For example: at 9:34 you can see that it measured 3.44mOhm resistance and it calculated 871A because at that current draw you will have 3V drop across those 3.44mOhms. That means that smaller batteries might be good even with higher resistance (10mOhm for 300CCA)
EDIT: Measurements aren't same for all ratings, this was just example for CCA.
Good video, i recently got the kw208 for 25 bucks and so far it's been accurate.
Hey Joshua, thanks for the feedback. That sounds like a smoking deal on the KW208. Appreciate you hanging out, Cheers!
The problem is, how do you know if it's accurate?
thanks heaps mate, well done! I think I'll go with the Ancel, seems to be more of a known brand as well compared to the rest.
Glad you enjoyed the video Peter, appreciate the feedback. You won't be disappointed with the color screen on the Ancel BA301 and the speed, it's crazy fast. Have fun with your new tester, Cheers!
Thanks very much for your hard work and time. It seems to me the foxwell is the best. But I wonder if that kind of money is justified for home use like a regular guy who is not a mechanic and just wants to check battery from time to time. On the other hand, Konnwei is great price but if it mislead you into buying a new battery before time then it is making you waste money. I'm undecided
Thanks for the comments Carlos. We agree that the Foxwell BT705 is a bit much for home use, given it's price tag and the overall size. We feel the Ancel BA301 is the best buy, with a great color screen and lighting fast operation. But at the end of the day, they all provided similar results and can definitely point you in the right direction regarding your current battery issue. Appreciate the feedback, thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
A manual car battery load tester is probably the best bet. No fancy gimmicks or electronics to mess with. Just hook up the clamps and let the load tester do its thing. On sale for around $20 ~ $25 the manual (analogue) car battery load tester is a little more chunky to carry around but the old school battery testers are tried and true for at least the last +70 years. Not nearly as portable as the new fancy digital car battery testers but at least it performs exactly like a car battery tester should.....
Thanks for the comments Bob, sometimes the old school technology works the best. Next time we will include the old school methods during our testing of new tech.
Appreciate you sharing your thoughts and hanging out. Cheers!
They don't test the alternator's charging ability. They don't record in the same detail. Slow cranking speed is a vehicle's load test. People know that a 4 year old slow engine cranking problem is a bad battery.
These are quick, lightweight and take a few seconds to use.
You can check your battery regularly for miniscule changes or charging rate changes.
I've borrowed the "tried and true" load testers.... But after buying my Topdon I see no need for a load tester..... I'll never waste my time using one of those easy bake oven types again. 😁
Amazing so close on the results. That Ancel was fast for sure.
It was great to test out each price point just to see how they compare. But there is no doubt the Ancel is crazy fast. Thanks for watching, Cheers!
I picked up a Konwei for like 18 bucks w coupon. Perfectly suits my needs for testing something every couple of months. 👍
Thanks for sharing, they all get the job done at the end of the day. It just comes down to how much would you like to spend and does speed matter. $18 is sweet deal though congrats.
Cheers!
Same, $18 :)
@@MrSaguaro Sweet deal, congrats!
@@BradleysGarage I wanna know about the difference in why 2 testers said the battery needs replacement and the other 2 said it was a good battery. Somebody is wrong.
@@dman357 Not sure why the testers came up with different results. All we can say is that we are still using that Interstate battery in our E46 BMW to this day. It has never had an issue or caused any problems.
Cheers!
Found this review very helpful. As google reviews etc aren't always what they are cut out to be. Still scratching my head how two say the battery should be replaced and two say battery is good. I agree with you must be the algorythym. But I'd tend to go for the cheaper one that says the battery is still good as it would save me from potentially changing out a perfectly good battery.
Hey David, glad you enjoyed the video. We can't explain the difference in the testers either. All I can say is we are now more than 7 months after the test and that Interstate battery is still going strong in our BMW E46. From the 115 degrees heat to the now high 20's at night it is still cranking good.
Any of the testers will provide plenty of info. It just comes down to which features you are more interested in and go from there.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage then it was a good battery
@@JR1068 That seems to be the case JR. Since two testers sad it was bad and two said it was good, it must have been right on the line based on their algorithms. Thanks for the comments, Cheers!
Good video but you sound just like the guy from Project Farm's channel. I'm sure you know who he is because your start of the video introducing the devices it's exactly like his, not sure if you were trying to poke fun or you simply liked his delivery. Good overall video.
Hey Miami, thanks for the comments. Todd is a great guy and we love his videos. He has definitely been an inspiration for doing videos on things we are already using or we want to get for the garage.
Appreciate the feedback though, glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
This was extremely helpful for this mason thanks I'm thinking the second one is the best for me
Thanks for the comments Jack, glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. Cheers!
Im not an expert but during the very first test my gut feeling was the battery still had life left. I would favor the two testers that rated the battery good vs bad. Of course that would be if I weren’t having problems with the battery. Good test, thanks for sharing
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. We are still using that Interstate battery in our E46, so it was definitely good. Still doesn't make any sense why the two testers said to replace. Maybe it was right on the border of their algorithm.
Cheers!
I think the only reason I'd go with the Foxwell is that I can complete all of the tests from the drivers seat while holding the device (that extra long cable comes in handy).
Thanks for the comments Garrett, appreciate the feedback. The long cable on the Foxwell is tough to beat. I know it was on promo just recently for around $98 which is a great deal.
Cheers!
Maybe in the future you can use a Volt meter to show if there's a difference in the Volt readings from the battery analyzer itself. I buy midtronic's units as I find them to be a 100% accurate to a volt meter. Good video 👍
Thanks for the suggestion, it would be interesting to see the baseline on the voltage using a control. Glad you enjoyed the video, appreciate the feedback, Cheers!
I use one of those cheap Chinese made 12 volt cigarette lighter voltmeters and they work like a charm! Just watch the voltmeter reading as you start the car's engine and if the voltage doesn't drop below 9.6 volts while cranking car's engine over the car's battery will be still fine! They're only $3 off TEMU as well.
This way there is no need to open the hood or get out the multi-meter or do anything whatsoever. Just plug the unit into the cigarette socket and watch the voltage readings as you crank the engine over. It's dirt cheap and super effective!
@@happycat0411 but what about the resistance? You need to know the resistance to know the state of health (good battery vs bad battery).
@@dreamrelaxation7239 I also have an old school solid chrome Chicago Electric manual load tester to load test the car battery as well. The 12 volt cigarette lighter tester and manual load tester only cost me about $25 Canadian together.
I really like these two things for car battery testing and using this route to test car batteries is quite inexpensive as well.
I can also easily save $100 and find a used battery and test it with the manual load tester as well. The manual battery load tester is tried and true since the 1950s.... and works like a charm!
New tech stuff is nice but I personally prefer using old school stuff that I have a better understanding of how they are designed.
@@dreamrelaxation7239 high internal resistance = lower voltage during cranking
Please be fully aware that it is just a hair distance away for the last tester to show the battery needed to be replaced since the SOH is 80%. If it were 79%, it would show replacement. As a result, either we can trust the three showing replacement or the TOPDON showing good battery.
The other two showed 78% SOH if I remember right.
Thanks for the comments Yang. The crazy thing is we are still using that battery in the E46 to this day. That's one of our daily drivers so it's still holding on.
Not sure what to say about the test numbers and why different units have different results. All we can say is that the battery is still going strong.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Haha, I just got a new 48H6 battery (730cca), used the 208 to test it, and the result was good. I also tested a 39-month 24F battery (750cca). It is 69% SOH (about 500 CCA left), but it is strong enough to start the car. I believe it is all about the CCA. Even though it showed to replace the battery, the 500CCA is still strong enough to start the car. Actually, the new cheaper Walmart 24F battery has only 585CCA. It is the same in your case that your battery is still strong enough to start the car even though the testers showed replacement.
I can confirm that the cheap 208 is very accurate. I was at Advance Auto yesterday, and I asked them to do a battery test. At 70F temperature yesterday, Advance tested the battery(12.67 volts, 577 CCA). I used the 208 to test it and it showed a very similar result (12.65 volts,565 CCA).
@@passion830217 What kind of tester did Advance Auto use?
I bought the Foxwell because of the leth of the cables and todays cars the batterys are all not in the engine bay as years past
Hey SuperJoes, we agree the Foxwell cable length is impressive. For those Euro cars with batteries in the trunk or under the backseat it helps with access. It really comes down to your application and what features will work for your situation. Thanks for the feedback, Cheers!
Given that the Foxwell was an outlier for internal resistance measurements, it would've been interesting to see you measure it with a good multi-meter. That would've given more info on accuracy.
Thanks for the comments, we wanted to use our Multi Meter for the video but it literally died during the first test so we had to scrap that idea. Hopefully we were able to show the differences between the various price points of battery testers so it can help with your decision.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Hmm my Foxwell BT705 that i purchased in 2016 does not have the SOH or SOC Readings... interesting... Thanks for the video
Hey Jack, thanks for the comments. We are using the most recent 2022 edition of the Foxwell. It seems as though they have added some features since the 2016 model. Appreciate the feedback, Cheers!
What does In Vehicle and Out Vehicle options mean?
Hey Gamer, thanks for the question. In Vehicle testing gives you the ability to not only check the battery voltage condition but it also allows you to check your cranking ability and your charging ability in your vehicle.
Out of the Vehicle testing will only allow you to test just the battery and no vehicle components. Hope this helps clear things up, Cheers!
It just to remind you to turn on the headlights for 10 seconds to reduce the so called surface charge of the battery. It's mostly useless and the results this kind of testers puts out should always be taken with a grain of salt.
Thanks for saying where things are made. That info can be hard to find online.
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video.
Cheers!
Really up to you be serious, why would I want tester that tells me to replace battery if not necessary!!!!, please review accurate testers next time.
Results close except the SOH. Big difference between 61% and 80% if you are deciding to replace or not.
Thanks for the comments, we are not sure why we got conflicting data with the couple testers. The funny thing is, we are still using that Interstate battery in our E46 to this day. So it seems like the (2) testers were accurate in saying the battery was still good.
Cheers!
SOH is just an easy to digest number retrieved from a table mostly based on the internal resistance and rated current you put in. The key value that you have to look for is the measured internal resistance, but first you need to know which value to expect (as this depends on the rated current of the battery) and how this value is influenced by other factors: for exemple the internal resistance increases with a decrease in state of charge of the battery. SOC is also spit out from a table based on the voltage of the battery and has it's own quirks. This kind of measurements, or mostly the estimation they provide in terms of SOH/SOC is not an exact science and this is true even for the most expensive testers of this kind. All provide guesstimates which should be taken with a grain of salt.
Awesome review! Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the kind words Max, glad you enjoyed the video.
Cheers!
How do you know which battery type to select? Would a regular car or truck's battery be the AGM Flat Plate?
Thanks for the question. Most cars today use the regular flooded lead acid battery type. You will find AGM batteries in a lot of the European brands, BMW, Audi, Mercedes and Porsche. They are also used in motorsports applications, dirt bikes, quads, side by side, jet ski's etc.
The AGM batteries are clearly marked AGM (Absorbable Glass Mat) on the label so you will be able to tell.
Just take a look at the label and you will get the info you need to run the tests with the battery tester. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Thanks for the reply!
@drumtum81 No problem, good luck on your search for a battery tester that works for your needs. Cheers!
@drumtum: My 2021 Jeep Gladiator battery (ACDelco 94RAGM) is AGM, and really don't see FLA batteries much anymore. When I do, it's usually when people buy them to replace their original/factory/OEM battery as FLAs tend to be cheaper -- but I recommend they go AGM and leave FLA in the past. They were fine then (and for decades !) but nowadays I can't see any reason to go FLA anymore for one's car/truck.
BTW, I recently got a battery tester like these here, but mine was from Harbor Freight ("Viking" brand, $39.99, SKU = 58759). Can't know for sure it's accuracy, but the "bad" batteries it has reported are definitely (known) bad, and the "good" batteries are also as reported...so I am concerned why two of these testers shown here said batteries were "bad" when I didn't see any of the data (test results) they reported confirming they ARE bad (like internal resistance values, which were low enough to be "good"). Something's definitely wrong there...
-- BR
i just pulled the trigger today & got a foxwell ordered on amazon $109.99 with a $20 off coupon charging me $97
Thanks for the comments Anthony, sounds like you got a sweet deal on the Foxwell. With the prices how they are these days, it's nice to hear someone getting a good deal.
Cheers!
Ok, but how do we know what is right, you need a professional one to act as the control
Thanks for the comments Dave, appreciate the feedback. We just wanted to show the differences between the products and let the viewers decide which features worked for their application. Next time we will grab the voltmeter to provide a baseline measurement. Cheers!
Are any of them made in the US?
Hey Dennis, thanks for the question. Unfortunately, no they are all made in China. We have not been able to locate a battery tester that's made in the USA.
These small electronic devices all seems to be made in China, just like most of the tools these days.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
nice video but don’t really get the whole battery tester thing… l’ve owned various vehicles during 20 years and you can simply feel when a battery is going bad when starting your engine during cold weather… put a battery charger with regen mode on it and it will give you some extra months. Once it still has trouble starting the car even after charging then you know it’s the very end and should start looking for a new one
Fantastic content!
Appreciate the feedback, glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Thx, great vid, will buy one via the link.
Appreciate the feedback Vivek, glad you enjoyed the video. Have fun with your new garage toy, Cheers!
Wish in the end he could of told us if that battery was good or bad . 50/50 is not enough otherwise great video
Hey Manuel, thanks for the comments. My son is still using the Interstate battery in his E46 BMW to this day. That battery is over 5 years old now and has not given him any issues. Thanks again for hanging out, glad you enjoyed the video.
Cheers!
what does it mean by ' Ripple ' ?
Thanks for the questions Jay, hope this helps answer the question.
When the engine is running, an alternator generates electrical energy to supply the vehicle’s on-board electrical systems and replace the battery charge consumed during cranking.
The alternator converts mechanical rotation to electrical energy by causing a magnetic field to rotate within a fixed set of windings. The changing magnetic field induces AC voltages within the windings, which are rectified by an arrangement of diodes to give a DC output.
The maximum output is limited by a voltage regulator, which varies the alternator output relative to the system voltage; when the system voltage is low, the regulator increases the alternator output, and vice versa.
The rectification of the generated AC current creates a continuous series of voltage pulses, a ripple, within the alternator’s output. Periodically missing pulses or disruptions within the ripple indicate a problem with either the windings or the rectification diodes. Sharp spikes, usually downward, between the pulses indicate diode failure and the presence of unrectified AC voltage in the circuitry.
The alternator output will vary with engine speed and electrical load. However, a consistent ripple must be maintained throughout these variations.
Turning on electrical consumers and increasing the engine speed will increase the alternator load which can provoke faults that are not evident at low loads. If the peak to peak output voltages are above 500 mV, the offending voltage spikes may disrupt other electrical systems, in particular those systems dependent on an AC signal.
In other words, the battery testers that have the "Ripple" function can give you an idea that your alternator is going out or is on it's last leg. Even if you are getting 14-14.5V with the car running, it may still be having spikes in voltage and a bad diode.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Wow , thanks for the in-depth answer !
So would I be right in thinking that , say you do have alternator which has a phase which is dying but still working , would that show as a repeat down spike in intervals , on that ripple graph ?
@@jayk2k If you have a tester that shows Ripple, you should see fluctuations on that test and that will mean your alternator has an internal issue and should be checked out.
Thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
the first table test KW208 volt is 78% no 76% only in the table kw 208 and foxwell perfect
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, Cheers!
If everybody copied Project Farm UA-cam would be perfect. Great delivery and useful video, thank you
Thanks for the comments Hermand, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for hanging out. Cheers!
so which one is better????????????
Thanks for the question Elite, we found them all to be very similar with little differences here and there. It really comes down to feature preferences and looks.
Our preference would be the Ancel BA301, with its color screen, fast operation, small size and ergonomics, it does a great job without breaking the bank.
Good luck in your search, Cheers!
setting up it said to set CCA you did not you just press test
Thanks for the comments Burleigh. Prior to the test for each battery tester we hooked them up and set them to the proper CCA settings in an effort to make the video more efficient. All the CCA were properly set for each battery tester before carrying out the test. We hope this clears up any confusion about the way each were tested. Thanks again for watching, Cheers!
In order to get an accurate battery test the battery must be discharged and charged 3 times especially electric car batteries
Thanks for the comments Nicholas, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
i like foxwell
Thanks for the comments, Foxwell is a solid brand.
Cheers!
Are we forgetting that two of the testers called a known good battery bad? . . .
Thanks for the comments, it's still unclear as to why 2 out of the 4 said the battery was bad. The funny thing is we are still using that Interstate battery in our E46, over two years now. Bottom line is these testers can just provide you with some information, doesn't necessarily mean they are always accurate.
Cheers!
Ect300 short finder
Thanks for the suggestion MM, the ECT3000 looks like a pretty kewl tool to check for shorts and tracing in a vehicle. Might have to add that one to the wishlist for a later purchase.
www.powerprobe.com/na/en/ECT3000
Cheers!
Thank you for the comparison! 😃👍
I think ALL of them do their job while the 2 cheaper ones are perfectly for private usage.
The Topdon AB100 has 10 different standards for measuring while the Konnwei KW208 has just 9 (it lacks the Chinese "GB" standard).
The languages... well, everything different from English was automatically translated🤭🤦♂️. Even as a German I'd keep it in English. 🤪😂
In the low price range also exists the Topdon BT50. This has 4 keys aswell.
If you go down to less than €/$/£ 20.- you will find battery testers without cranking test, without charging test and without EN/DIN standard at all. Better spend 10 to 15 bucks more and having a charging test!
Appreciate the feedback U.E. We agree that all of the battery testers seem to perform very well. They all provide very similar measurements and have a variety of features. You can definitely opt for an even lower cost tester if you are willing to give up some of those features. Just figure out what tests you may be performing, what your budget is and purchase accordingly. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
My preference is, WHEN TO REPLACE BATTERY.......... All tessters have close to same numbers but two say battery needs to be replaced and two say battery is good, to me that is a BS answer!!!!!!! The main reason for me to buy a battery tester is to know for sure when battery needs replacement, I get a clearer answer out of watching Brandon..............
Thanks for the comments, we agree it can be confusing. The crazy part is that Interstate battery is still in our E46 to this day and is working fine. No idea why those (2) testers said it was bad, especially when the values were very similar with all of the testers.
We are just using these as a baseline and not necessarily relying on them for a definitive answer.
Cheers!
Great info. I love seeing the interaction in the comments below. That deserves a subscribe from me.
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Appreciate the Sub as well, thanks again for hanging out.
Cheers!
KINGBOLEN BM550 6v 12v 24v $20
Hey Corey, yeah it seems like the Konwei is now down to $24 and the Topdon is down to $27 so that's getting pretty cheap. Thanks for the comments, Cheers!
🌺🌷🌵🌴🎁🌹🌲🕊Your method of explanation is easy and the person understands it quickly, with a focus on explaining the content, as much as you wish to explain the device foxwall gt 75 ts bi dirrectional scon tool with ecu cooding tpms relearn program 31+sevices all system car diagnostic scanner Please and I wish you would upload a video about this device and explain the method clearly. I am from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. I listen to you and explain it, which is understood very quickly and smoothly🤟🤘🤙🤞✌👍🤚
Thank you for the kind words Ali, we appreciate the feedback. We will look into testing that Foxwell GT75 scanner. It looks like a very comprehensive scan tool albeit with a hefty price tag. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Konnwei KW208 Better Very Fast
Thanks for the comments Didik. We were also surprised how fast the KW208 was as well. Appreciate the feedback, Cheers!
If the results vary SO MUCH and are "questionable", as per your own statement, they all suck, it's that simple. Use the old style load tester. Who needs all these "measurements" to later find out that "good" battery is actualy garbage...
Thanks for the comments Bryce, appreciate the feedback. While we saw some variable results with these battery testers, they still have a place in the toolbox. For as little as $30 you can get an idea of the battery condition and you can test the charging system so it's worth while to have.
Now, the old school style load testers are also great and can be picked up for super cheap as well. It really comes down to what you are looking for and what your needs are. Cheers!
State of Health is 78% yet it tells you to replace the battery? Ha ha ha. Watch at 5:05.
Thanks for the comments, it was strange getting those (2) testers to recommend replacement versus the other (2) saying it was good. The funny thing is we are still using that battery in our E46 to this day. It is still working great, now two years later.
Cheers!
How about accuracy 😂
Thanks for the question, they all seemed to have similar results. The only thing that was different between them was the algorithm that determines whether the battery is good or should be replaced. The funny thing is we are still running that Interstate battery in our E46, that (2) testers said should be replaced. That has been over 2 years now and it is still running like a champ.
At the end of the day they all provide good information to help you make an more informed decision about the health of the battery and charging system.
Cheers!
LMAO, this sounds like a copycat Project Farm channel...
Thanks for the comments Nokian, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
Battery life still questionable if it's good or bad from the test.
Hey Dave, the BMW battery was definitely on the fence since it was a split result.
We are however, still using that battery in the E46 so it still seems to be working good. Not sure when it will eventually die I'm sure but we will keep driving it until that day happens, Cheers 😎
Guys trying way to hard to be project farm lmfaooo
Thanks for the comments John, appreciate the feedback, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage it was a very informative review.
Glad you enjoyed the video John, thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
That what I thought too. But definitely not.
Nothing wrong with Project Farm and this comparison review was EXACTLY what I was looking for before spending my cash. This guy did a good job and did not favour the sponsoring brand. I give him 👍🏼👍🏼
Project farm has much better tests .
Appreciate the feedback, thanks for the comments. Cheers!
Show me a battery tester comparison that he did.
Hey PacketAttack, I wasn't able to locate any battery tester comparison video that he performed. There's no doubt he makes great videos though. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Oh I wasn't responding to your, it was to that jackwagon @rumpelstillskin.
how is that pretty consistent across the board? not to me
Thanks for the comments pagepro, appreciate the feedback. Almost all of the values are less than 1% different with SOH and Resistance being the outliers at 6:07
On the other test at 12:21 we have a similar result with the outliers for SOH and Resistance being the main discrepancy. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage at 1 2 : 2 1 you used 850 CCA for all the devices yet even though Konnwei, Ancel and Foxwell measured more than 850 CCA for the SOH, the Konnwei and Ancel accurately said the SOH was 100% but the Foxwell said it was below (85%) even though it actually measured higher at 866CCA, like wtf, Foxwell is giving mixed bag basic calculation for being a known brand.
@@BradleysGarage6 : 0 9 and how can you say the values are less than 1% different with SOH when a device displayed 61% SOH and another device displayed 80% SOH which is a total difference of 19% SOH and not 1% SOH you said using the chart you provided.. you are not doing the basic math are you?
Thanks for the comments, not sure why the Foxwell was giving mixed values.
I mentioned those two SOH and Resistance values are the outliers. All of the other values are within 1-2%. Cheers.
foxwell giving good and bad results on different tests
It just seems like the Foxwell has a different algorithm in determining the Resistance in the battery. Maybe it is more strict in it's measurement and therefore provides a harsh evaluation. We need to try a brand new battery to see how the Resistance would compare to get a more accurate idea.
Cheers!
Really tryna sound like project farm lol
Thanks for the comments Paul, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Great video!!
Thanks for the kind words Taylor, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!