Hi there, I stumbled upon your video and felt driven to comment. What a refreshing change! There is no stupid, unrelated music and a fellow Human who can speak and construct sentences without constant umm, er, eh um...and didn't address us as Bro!!! clear, easy and informative instructions very well presented. I wish you good luck in your channel growing. Thank you.. Alan.
Totally agree mate... great video with no distractions or trying to understand what the heck the commentator is trying to say... just clear and concise.... no 10 min ramble about their life story or how qualified they are.... We can see if you don't know what you're talking about.... Great video, will watch more, thank you...🥳🥳🥳
Clear concise storyboarding and shot sequencing combined with a thoughtful pace free of frenetic freestyling makes this presentation simply outstanding! . Congrats on a solid video.
I bought a multimeter a few years ago to check something (can’t remember what) and no real clue how to use it. After watching your video I found something new I can try. Thanks for schooling this old man.
I just performed this test on my battery. At rest the battery only shows 10.6V, and when under load, the minimum was only 6.0V, but 14.1V while running. Can I revive my battery by putting it on a trickle charger - or is it time for a new battery?
@ecpoirier What is the age of the battery. Used to be 5yrs or more u change the battery ( because it makes alternator work harder, hence, u spend even MORE money). But today, if it's 3yrs or more, I would change. And CHECK mfg date on battery & MAKE SURE it's fully charged. Just because it's new, it may have sat on shelf long.👍✊️🇺🇸
@@ecpoirier I would definitely get a new Battery instead of waiting to get stranded. Especially with the winter months and cold weather conditions coming soon.
I never understand how OE batteries last 8 years no problem, whereas when I replace them with aftermarket, like varta silver or agm, then they can start becoming unreliable after 4 years or so. Good explanation.
I have never had a battery no matter where it was purchased or the vehicle was new or old last more than four years If you had either a car or truck battery last eight years you should have given it to the Smithsonian institution because it would be the only one in history to have lasted that long I have owned cars for 40 years
A really nice video. You have a a very fine easy to understand verbal delivery that makes using a multimeter easy for a novice to find out if the battery is good or bad through a load test. Thanks. Good teachers like yourself are worth their weight in gold.
Excellent video - clear and a good pace - this is book marked! You did in a 6 min video what others do over 20 with less of the important data/information.
Yes, excellent video. Easy to follow exactly. The second load test with the min way down was an eye opener. I've certainly heard exactly that kind of weak battery and had enough experience to know it was probably time to replace it. But now I can know for sure. I've got a Fluke similar to yours.
Thank you! Yes, it was an eye opener for me re the second test. I used this info to push a battery supplier into replacing my battery under warranty (although they took a bit of persuading!). Fluke are the best but you pay for it... However, it should last a long time. Thanks for your comment! cheers, Phil
Great content. Years ago I had a diesel Focus and randomly the battery would go flat overnight. I was walking past it one night and the instrument panel was glowing including the glowplugs lights, I opened the bonnet and found them hot! This is what was discharging the battery. It was caused by leakage on the instrument panel pcb, a known problem caused by climatic conditions affecting the lead free solder flux when it ages, that I did not know!
This is about the most reliable test. I worked in a Renault & Kia dealership and both brands supplied a Midtronics battery tester which had to be used with warranty claims as they generated a test code. If you tested with one tester and the battery failed you could immediately test with the other and it would probably pass!
Great demo, I've used this method myself, glad to see someone else validate the idea. I'd just caution your viewers to definitely repeat the measurement multiple times. I once connected two different meters with min/max functions at the same time and got two very different minimum values after starting the car. The more expensive meter showed a lower (more accurate) voltage, while the cheaper one showed almost 2 volts higher if I remember right. I guess the cheaper meter took fewer readings (at a slower rate), and the battery must have dipped to its lowest point in between the points where the readings were taken. Whereas the more expensive meter probably takes more/faster readings which allowed it to be more accurate. This is probably less of an issue if your car cranks over for several seconds. But if your car starts fairly quickly then I'd be cautious of the reading and repeat it a few times. I'm sure your Fluke meter reads at a decent frequency.
Thanks for sharing your experience and the extra info. Never thought about it but yes, I can imagine a high end multimeter will potentially scan and read faster, making the test easier and more relevant! Cheers, Phil
@@lucash1980 it would be a matter of reading what the needle shows. I don’t believe that they record what the highest or lowest figure is. Would make it difficult if you couldn’t see the meter but you could setup a phone and recorded it?
Thanks, glad you liked the vid! Just trying to share some techniques that the average guy at home can do without buying lots of expensive gear. On my way to So.Ca. in November for a holiday, will keep an eye out for your house 😀😂
I’ve been using a sulphated battery in my Sprinter Van for the past six months. I did so by fitting a cut off switch to the positive terminal of the battery. I keep the battery isolated whenever I know I won't be driving for more than 10 minutes. This also gives me a bit of extra security on the vehicle. The battery has trouble starting the Van if it is left connected for more than 4 hours. The morning start is the hardest. If I can't get it going, I use an emergency jump starter which is cheaper than a new battery in the morning. What I tend to find however is a couple of start attempts, warms up the battery enough to get the car started. After that, normal use of the Van, and continuing to isolate the battery as much as possible, means I don't have any trouble for the rest of the day. All this on a battery I should have replaced six months ago. Next time I buy a new battery I will continue to isolate it and see how long it lasts. For a tiny bit more trouble than normal battery use, I expect a new battery will last at least five years before I have real difficulty.
Hi @wiretamer5710 thank for sharing your experience! Sounds like you are managing the issue pretty well. Yes, it would be interesting to see how long a battery lasts if under zero load when not being used. Cheers, Phil
Great presentation! I knew both that there are specialized meters to test car batteries and alternators, and I know enough to know that you should be able to do it with a multimeter, but I didn't know what specific readings would indicate a problem.
Well, done! I worked for a battery company here in 🇺🇸. The ONLY thing u forgot to mention is how ols the battery IS. I experienced the exact thing on my own car with a poor load test & my battery was only 3yrs old. Mine is a hybrid to I had to have a different meter to do a simulated start. 👍
Thanks for the comment, yes battery age would have been a good point to make. 👍 The Varta battery featured in the video didn’t make it to its 3rd birthday. It had a 3yr guarantee and after a lot of pushing Tayna batteries finally agreed to replace it (they REALLY didn’t want to!). I used to think that batteries lasted 8yrs but my experience so far with Stop / Start cars is that it is much shorter, more like 5yrs. Thanks again for your comment. Cheers, Phil
6 * 1.7v = 10.2v, there's your minimum. 6 * 2.35 = 14.1v to 6 * 2.40 = 14.4v while running/charging. That's your numbers. Source - 34 years working in the battery industry.
I just performed this test on my battery. At rest the battery only shows 10.6V, and when under load, the minimum was only 6.0V, but 14.1V while running. Can I revive my battery by putting it on a trickle charger - or is it time for a new battery?
@@ecpoirier At rest, 10.6v says it is fully discharged or there is a dead cell. Put it on a trickle charger, let it fully charge then test it again after 60 minutes. You should see at least 12.8 volts. All that said, if it is more than 3 years old, I'd throw it away and get a new one cos sulphation will be setting in now.
Very informative on the electric side of things.However,to check if your alternator pulley freewheel is working just look at the tensioner arm when the engine has just started(especially from cold). If it is bouncing up and down a lot,chances are it is not working correctly.You can vary electrical loads and watch it.Normally it will hardly move up or down when you do this. Just discovered this and corrected it on my motor.😊
Quite a few people saying the gps trackers installed either by the manufacturer or the dealers putting in their own after market devices can continually drain the battery if not wired in to the ignition circuit.
100% Montana Dan endorsement. The internet contains a lot of misinformation relating to electronics. That is not the case with this video and I strongly agree with the diagnostic approach and the battery voltages specified for lead acid, high output, cranking batteries. Commenters qualifications: I hold a BSEE (Electronics) and have lifelong experience in the mechanical and electronic/electrical fields. My hobbies include a self contained 1989 IP35 sailboat (600w solar 400 Ah AGM, no invertor) and a 2003 Roadtrek camper van (high output self regulated alternator, Victron FET isolator, lead acid start and deep cycle 100AH house, no inverter).
Same meter can do an amp draw to see if there is parasitic draw from the battery i.e. stuck relay etc. A/C clutch relays are famous for sticking and you can't see it.
Hi there! Nice video. I couldn't find that link about finding how much power is left in your battery, i can't tell if my battery is bad, keeps dying...or the altenator is bad....both test ok, but my battery light keeps going on and shutting down.
Old car breakdown mechanic here,remove fuel pump fuse if petrol or solenoid wire on pump if diesel.Make sure battery is fully charged then run starter motor for 10 seconds.A petrol car should not drop below 10 volts when cranking and a diesel car should not drop below 9 volts. The charge rate is not always what this guy says because some newer vehicles have smart charging systems and won't show be charging as much as he said,sometimes nothing much more than the normal battery voltage.
Great explanation and a good tip for owners of 90's Jags like my XK8. These cars are very voltage sensitive and show all sorts of electrical problems if the cranking voltage drops into the low 9's and various module microprocessors reset themselves. I'm thinking of wiring in a Noco lithium starter pack to boost the voltage briefly just for starting. Do you think this is practical?
Thanks! Never tried this! If you have the knowledge, give it a try 👍 Apart from that, if your car isn’t a daily driver, the. S good trickle charger to maintain the battery is probably best.
Had batteries that were showing as fine repeatedly, including by multimeter and tested by Halford's and others; when they were NOT ok whatsoever! Standing voltage always appeared fine; but then not enough cold cranking when needed, as in very cold weather, or sometimes no so cold weather!
Nice vid, I think the voltages are specific to your vehicle/battery, one of my cars has an AGM battery which charges at a different rate over (15V DC), on big (generator) engines the control systems are designed to survive 0 volts on start up, with internal capacitors, not sure if cars would utilise the same principals.
Thanks for sharing the info! A lot of my cars have AGM batteries these days. The load test works pretty well on this type of battery for a normal road car. Usually if the voltage drops below about 9.5v during cranking I have found that standard cars often won’t start. Just to add that I agree, charging voltages are getting more complicated, some modern cars vary the charging rate depending on what they have detected the battery condition to be. Some of the more efficient cars, stop charging the battery and the alternator disconnects on an electric clutch if it is full, apparently saves a couple of mpg. Cheers, Phil
I would like to add a bad starter can also drag battery voltage down. So before condemning a battery as bad you must also determine the amount of amps being drawn by the starter. A bad starter say one for example with bad bearings will draw more amperage than a good starter which can falsely indicate a bad battery during this type of test.
A faulty earth will cause the voltage at the starter voltage to drop below what the voltage at the battery does, this can be measured by connecting the voltmeter between the battery's negative post (not the connection but the actual terminal belonging to the battery) and the case of the starter itself, ideally this shouldn't read more than 0.2V and a reading of around 0.5V or higher will start having an effect of the performance of your starter
You should always trust people with Fluke multimeter 😂 The biggest problem with Pb autobatteries, they don't like to stay uncharged. If you don't use your car for long periods or you drive only 10 minutes to work every day, consider buying a cheap battery charger-mainateiner. I am from Canada and I have 4 (four!) plugs sticking out of my car: 1. Block heater 2. Buddy interior heater 3. Battery blanket 4. Battery mainteiner This is crazy, but -40 C is not a joke
Agree, in those temperatures, you’ve got to be an expert in maintaining your vehicle and battery against the cold. 🥶 Sounds like you have got it nailed! 👍😎
When I was a kid, dad put a blanket on the engine to keep it happy over nite when it snowed.. My meter is a God Knows Who flung dung. But is true RMS cat 4 So if I wreck it I get another free with life time warranty. I got my 3rd about 2 weeks ago.
Thanks for tip! I was aware that you needed to wait a while after charging to dissipate the surface charge but using the headlights to speed up the process is a good idea 👍
My voltage is displayed on my dash on my bike. When I first power up, before cranking, the V sometimes shows it's as low as 6-7v but rapidly rising until it slowly creeps up to 12.2 where I crank it. If I try to start it too soon it dies momentarily and the bike does a factory reset. Usually the 2nd crank it starts up fine.
@@ReviveMyRide I think there's a big load on it, just as I power it on. It has automatic suspension control which I think it tests as well as a servo motor on the exhaust valve, ABS pump, all kinds of diagnostics I don't even understand. There's a whirring noise which doesn't seem to go away either. I just bought the Topdon BT20 load tester so maybe that will reveal some of what's going on with my starting issues, as sometimes it is a bit iffy at cranking.
Batteries especially lead acid don’t have much of a gradual decline in CCA capacity. It’s common to go from starting your vehicle to almost junk when you go for the next start. Simply put end of life is abrupt. It’s just time to replace it. For piece of mind the auto parts store has a load tester to verify the battery. Just personal preference but if you can swing it a AGM style battery is better in every way to a lead acid. With all of that said verify all connections are tight and making proper contact. A weak connection can act like a bad battery or starter ect.
Really sorry, I tried doing a video because I thought I had a drain, turned out I didn't (was a different issue" and the footage then didn't make sense. Hence, no vid produced. However, I recommend this vid by Eric The Car Guy which is a really good guide to parasitic battery drain. Just tell him Phil from Revive My Ride sent you! 😜 ua-cam.com/video/KF1gijj03_0/v-deo.htmlsi=2WPHB9XpyLXjijDb
Thanks! Sorry about the link, totally forgot. I haven't done a video yet on this but there's a channel that I like to watch called "Eric the car guy". He did a good video on this, here's the link! ua-cam.com/video/KF1gijj03_0/v-deo.html Cheers, Phil
What if my truck starter clicks . It’s a Duramax had two batteries . I disconnected one to get reading in each one . Each one is over 12 volts when I go to start it I can see it drops down to 11.2 or so , I’m getting 9.5-10.5 volts on the starter s wire while cranking when it does want to start , most of the time if clicks
FYI, 12V wet acid battery had 6 cells each at 2.1VDC x 6 cells = 12.6VDC. Anything else, ie. “13.5VDC is considered residual voltage. So your baseline for testing a fully charged battery is 12.6VDC not 12.75VDC Thank you
If the voltage is 3/4 or below 75% then its buggered However it may still show the voltage is good it may still not hold a charge This happened she got to work in the morning traveled to her second job and when she came back the car wouldn't start again
Yeah, a lot of people thing if it starts once, then it’ll be ok because it’ll charge back up again through driving but sometimes it isn’t the case once the battery starts to age. Cheers, Phil
As it’s just a quick and dirty test, my opinion but I don’t think it’s super critical. Whatever temp it is outside, you don’t have a lot of control over that. It was about 15 degrees C out during my test if that helps. I would imagine your results may be different if it is below zero outside though… cheers, Phil
This is how a how to video should be. No music, no multiple camera angles, to the point. Well done mate from Tasmania.
Hi there, I stumbled upon your video and felt driven to comment. What a refreshing change! There is no stupid, unrelated music and a fellow Human who can speak and construct sentences without constant umm, er, eh um...and didn't address us as Bro!!! clear, easy and informative instructions very well presented. I wish you good luck in your channel growing. Thank you.. Alan.
And no captions 😊
Totally agree mate... great video with no distractions or trying to understand what the heck the commentator is trying to say... just clear and concise.... no 10 min ramble about their life story or how qualified they are.... We can see if you don't know what you're talking about.... Great video, will watch more, thank you...🥳🥳🥳
Absolutely
Or. Hey! What up Guys! 😅😅
Younger generation bullshit talk
@ like yea Bro! 🤷♂️😘😂😂😂😂
Clear concise storyboarding and shot sequencing combined with a thoughtful pace free of frenetic freestyling makes this presentation simply outstanding! . Congrats on a solid video.
Thanks so much! I like your very technical review! 👍😎
I bought a multimeter a few years ago to check something (can’t remember what) and no real clue how to use it. After watching your video I found something new I can try. Thanks for schooling this old man.
No probs at all. 👍 thanks for your comment ☺️
Thank you for not having some stupid music playing. Great video
Thanks for your comment! Lots of people happy with very low or no music, will try to stick to that for my DIY’s! Cheers, Phil
Well done! What you say is EXACTLY what ppl should do. I worked for a battery manufacturer, so I know. 👍
I just performed this test on my battery. At rest the battery only shows 10.6V, and when under load, the minimum was only 6.0V, but 14.1V while running. Can I revive my battery by putting it on a trickle charger - or is it time for a new battery?
@ecpoirier What is the age of the battery. Used to be 5yrs or more u change the battery ( because it makes alternator work harder, hence, u spend even MORE money). But today, if it's 3yrs or more, I would change. And CHECK mfg date on battery & MAKE SURE it's fully charged. Just because it's new, it may have sat on shelf long.👍✊️🇺🇸
@@ecpoirier I would definitely get a new Battery instead of waiting to get stranded. Especially with the winter months and cold weather conditions coming soon.
@stevejones8665 new battery purchased and swapped. All good now. Piece of mind for $180 Costco Canada
You might have worked in a battery factory, but, you have no idea of what you're talking about and either does the guy who done the video..
I never understand how OE batteries last 8 years no problem, whereas when I replace them with aftermarket, like varta silver or agm, then they can start becoming unreliable after 4 years or so. Good explanation.
Varta is not was before. Exide have god price and good result in time.
Agree, been very disappointed recently with Varta batteries, I need to find another brand!
I have never had a battery no matter where it was purchased or the vehicle was new or old last more than four years
If you had either a car or truck battery last eight years you should have given it to the Smithsonian institution because it would be the only one in history to have lasted that long
I have owned cars for 40 years
@@evangiles4403I had an OEM Autolite battery in a 1986 E150 van last 7 years!
German here: At my Verso 2.2 diesel the Varta reaches 7 years , still OK. Heard of BOSCH battery quality decline, and had it at a Mazda 3BL.
A really nice video. You have a a very fine easy to understand verbal delivery that makes using a multimeter easy for a novice to find out if the battery is good or bad through a load test. Thanks. Good teachers like yourself are worth their weight in gold.
Hi @bearpuf Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed the vid and it is helping you. 👍 Cheers, Phil
Here's the truth, You can't 'load test' a battery with a multimeter..
@@jkgoogle5185. But you can use one to gain information about the state of your battery.
Excellent video - clear and a good pace - this is book marked!
You did in a 6 min video what others do over 20 with less of the important data/information.
Yes, excellent video. Easy to follow exactly. The second load test with the min way down was an eye opener. I've certainly heard exactly that kind of weak battery and had enough experience to know it was probably time to replace it. But now I can know for sure. I've got a Fluke similar to yours.
Thank you! Yes, it was an eye opener for me re the second test. I used this info to push a battery supplier into replacing my battery under warranty (although they took a bit of persuading!). Fluke are the best but you pay for it... However, it should last a long time. Thanks for your comment! cheers, Phil
Great content. Years ago I had a diesel Focus and randomly the battery would go flat overnight. I was walking past it one night and the instrument panel was glowing including the glowplugs lights, I opened the bonnet and found them hot! This is what was discharging the battery. It was caused by leakage on the instrument panel pcb, a known problem caused by climatic conditions affecting the lead free solder flux when it ages, that I did not know!
Today, after 50 years of amateur spannering on cars, I learned this 😊 thank you
No probs at all! Thanks for your comment, I'm learning new stuff all of the time too! Cheers, Phil
This is about the most reliable test. I worked in a Renault & Kia dealership and both brands supplied a Midtronics battery tester which had to be used with warranty claims as they generated a test code. If you tested with one tester and the battery failed you could immediately test with the other and it would probably pass!
Ha, wow! Sounds about right! I found this test worked really well for me to just show me how much ooomph the battery had left in it. Cheers, Phil
Great demo, I've used this method myself, glad to see someone else validate the idea. I'd just caution your viewers to definitely repeat the measurement multiple times. I once connected two different meters with min/max functions at the same time and got two very different minimum values after starting the car. The more expensive meter showed a lower (more accurate) voltage, while the cheaper one showed almost 2 volts higher if I remember right. I guess the cheaper meter took fewer readings (at a slower rate), and the battery must have dipped to its lowest point in between the points where the readings were taken. Whereas the more expensive meter probably takes more/faster readings which allowed it to be more accurate. This is probably less of an issue if your car cranks over for several seconds. But if your car starts fairly quickly then I'd be cautious of the reading and repeat it a few times. I'm sure your Fluke meter reads at a decent frequency.
Thanks for sharing your experience and the extra info. Never thought about it but yes, I can imagine a high end multimeter will potentially scan and read faster, making the test easier and more relevant! Cheers, Phil
I’m guessing an analog multimeter with a needle would solve that issue?
@NicholasRiviera-Dr do they make an analog meter with a min max indicator?
@@lucash1980 it would be a matter of reading what the needle shows. I don’t believe that they record what the highest or lowest figure is. Would make it difficult if you couldn’t see the meter but you could setup a phone and recorded it?
Thank you! I did not know what the min max button did until now!
No problem! This is the only time I have used it too but imagine it is a useful function for lots of other applications too. Cheers, Phil
Best video regarding car battery load measurement I have ever seen, many thanks and go safe liked and subscribed.
Thanks for your comment and welcome aboard! Cheers, Phil
This was very helpful. And easy to understand. Thank you
Cheers! Glad it was helpful! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide your welcome
Very useful information presented in a professional, concise manner.
Thanks so much! 👍😎
An excellent video completely absent of faff. Very easy to follow. The inclusion of voltage levels was very useful too. Thanks
Got a thumbs up from me. Multimeter leads with banana connectors are a good addition to attach croc clips and back probes etc.
Great tip! Cheers, Phil
This is a very simple and efficient way the check the car battery. Amazing. Thanks for the info.
Thanks so much! Glad it was helpful!
I enjoyed your presentation esp. your accent and enunciation!
Thanks so much! Glad you liked the video 👍I have a kinda weird hybrid accent due to my dual nationality 😁 cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide
I would guess at least half is Liverpudlian. 😉👍
@@Rein_Ciarfellanot too far off! I have been in Yorkshire for quite a few years…
Thanks gives a good starting point for the other checks.
Cold temperatures will also affect the performance
Yes, that’s true! 👍 It’s why so many batteries fail on the cold winter days when we need them most! 🥶
Thanks for the video. Batteries are an important part of a car. Keep the terminal clean and have a better life.
Very true! 👍
I got a real charge from the battery of tests you did. Back 2 Basics never goes out of style. Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd house on the left
Thanks, glad you liked the vid! Just trying to share some techniques that the average guy at home can do without buying lots of expensive gear. On my way to So.Ca. in November for a holiday, will keep an eye out for your house 😀😂
@@ReviveMyRide 10-4. Just remember, if you do stop by you'll have to let yourself in the front gate. My ankle bracelet won't reach that far Cheers
@@ValuedTeamMember 😂👍
I’ve been using a sulphated battery in my Sprinter Van for the past six months. I did so by fitting a cut off switch to the positive terminal of the battery. I keep the battery isolated whenever I know I won't be driving for more than 10 minutes. This also gives me a bit of extra security on the vehicle. The battery has trouble starting the Van if it is left connected for more than 4 hours.
The morning start is the hardest. If I can't get it going, I use an emergency jump starter which is cheaper than a new battery in the morning. What I tend to find however is a couple of start attempts, warms up the battery enough to get the car started.
After that, normal use of the Van, and continuing to isolate the battery as much as possible, means I don't have any trouble for the rest of the day. All this on a battery I should have replaced six months ago.
Next time I buy a new battery I will continue to isolate it and see how long it lasts. For a tiny bit more trouble than normal battery use, I expect a new battery will last at least five years before I have real difficulty.
Hi @wiretamer5710 thank for sharing your experience! Sounds like you are managing the issue pretty well. Yes, it would be interesting to see how long a battery lasts if under zero load when not being used. Cheers, Phil
Great presentation! I knew both that there are specialized meters to test car batteries and alternators, and I know enough to know that you should be able to do it with a multimeter, but I didn't know what specific readings would indicate a problem.
You don't know enough because you cannot 'load test' a battery with a multimeter..
Another very helpful video.
Thank you for posting. 👍
Hi @BionicRusty thanks for your comment, glad you liked it 👍😀 Cheers, Phil
Thanks for sharing, I didn't realize my multimeter have the feature. It is a great idea to test my battery.👍
Well, done! I worked for a battery company here in 🇺🇸. The ONLY thing u forgot to mention is how ols the battery IS. I experienced the exact thing on my own car with a poor load test & my battery was only 3yrs old. Mine is a hybrid to I had to have a different meter to do a simulated start. 👍
Thanks for the comment, yes battery age would have been a good point to make. 👍 The Varta battery featured in the video didn’t make it to its 3rd birthday. It had a 3yr guarantee and after a lot of pushing Tayna batteries finally agreed to replace it (they REALLY didn’t want to!). I used to think that batteries lasted 8yrs but my experience so far with Stop / Start cars is that it is much shorter, more like 5yrs. Thanks again for your comment. Cheers, Phil
Great video, thank you, regards from Mexico City.
Thanks! Also, great to hear from someone in Mexico! 🇲🇽 cheers, Phil
6 * 1.7v = 10.2v, there's your minimum. 6 * 2.35 = 14.1v to 6 * 2.40 = 14.4v while running/charging. That's your numbers. Source - 34 years working in the battery industry.
Do a video mate
Your cell numbers are good but as we don't know the starter amp draw specifications, his numbers are sufficient for the purpose of the video.
I just performed this test on my battery. At rest the battery only shows 10.6V, and when under load, the minimum was only 6.0V, but 14.1V while running. Can I revive my battery by putting it on a trickle charger - or is it time for a new battery?
@@ecpoirier At rest, 10.6v says it is fully discharged or there is a dead cell. Put it on a trickle charger, let it fully charge then test it again after 60 minutes. You should see at least 12.8 volts. All that said, if it is more than 3 years old, I'd throw it away and get a new one cos sulphation will be setting in now.
Thank heavens for a lucid articulate explanation.
thats a huge battery . great video. thx i have the same fluke meter . great tool,
Excellent video, and knowledge imparted clearly 👍
Fantastic instructions! Thank you!
Hi @steved0603 you're welcome and thanks for your comment 👍😎 Cheers, Phil
Great video. Correct information presented perfectly 👍👍
@tonytully5027 Thanks very much! 😊 Cheers, Phil
You got that wrong.... You cannot load test a battery with a multimeter..
Very informative on the electric side of things.However,to check if your alternator pulley freewheel is working just look at the tensioner arm when the engine has just started(especially from cold).
If it is bouncing up and down a lot,chances are it is not working correctly.You can vary electrical loads and watch it.Normally it will hardly move up or down when you do this.
Just discovered this and corrected it on my motor.😊
Thanks for sharing this tip! 👍😁
Great video! short and easy to understand.
Thanks! 😎
Excellent video,man.Thanks for your time.
Thank you!
Quite a few people saying the gps trackers installed either by the manufacturer or the dealers putting in their own after market devices can continually drain the battery if not wired in to the ignition circuit.
👍 Brilliant and simple explanation.
Thanks so much! 👍😁
100% Montana Dan endorsement.
The internet contains a lot of misinformation relating to electronics. That is not the case with this video and I strongly agree with the diagnostic approach and the battery voltages specified for lead acid, high output, cranking batteries.
Commenters qualifications:
I hold a BSEE (Electronics) and have lifelong experience in the mechanical and electronic/electrical fields. My hobbies include a self contained 1989 IP35 sailboat (600w solar 400 Ah AGM, no invertor) and a 2003 Roadtrek camper van (high output self regulated alternator, Victron FET isolator, lead acid start and deep cycle 100AH house, no inverter).
Thanks very much @montanadan2524 👍 Glad to have earned your endorsement on the video, thanks for dropping me the comment!! 😎 cheers, Phil
Great video bud subscribed and going to look through your vids if i have any future issues 👍
Thanks so much! Great to have you on board, my back catalogue is getting pretty big now but plenty more work to do 👍 cheers, Phil
Same meter can do an amp draw to see if there is parasitic draw from the battery
i.e. stuck relay etc. A/C clutch relays are famous for sticking and you can't see it.
Yep, I have used this meter for that. Good tip about the AC clutch. Thanks!
very helpful. thanks
No probs at all! 👍😀
Hi there! Nice video. I couldn't find that link about finding how much power is left in your battery, i can't tell if my battery is bad, keeps dying...or the altenator is bad....both test ok, but my battery light keeps going on and shutting down.
Old car breakdown mechanic here,remove fuel pump fuse if petrol or solenoid wire on pump if diesel.Make sure battery is fully charged then run starter motor for 10 seconds.A petrol car should not drop below 10 volts when cranking and a diesel car should not drop below 9 volts.
The charge rate is not always what this guy says because some newer vehicles have smart charging systems and won't show be charging as much as he said,sometimes nothing much more than the normal battery voltage.
Great explanation and a good tip for owners of 90's Jags like my XK8. These cars are very voltage sensitive and show all sorts of electrical problems if the cranking voltage drops into the low 9's and various module microprocessors reset themselves. I'm thinking of wiring in a Noco lithium starter pack to boost the voltage briefly just for starting. Do you think this is practical?
Thanks! Never tried this! If you have the knowledge, give it a try 👍 Apart from that, if your car isn’t a daily driver, the. S good trickle charger to maintain the battery is probably best.
Thank you for posting this video,,shockingly easy ,,,as it 'Empowered me' to do the test's 🙂
Thank you! I’ve found that It’s a good first test if you’ve started having problems and you suspect your battery may be on its way out 👍 cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide 🙂
Had batteries that were showing as fine repeatedly, including by multimeter and tested by Halford's and others; when they were NOT ok whatsoever! Standing voltage always appeared fine; but then not enough cold cranking when needed, as in very cold weather, or sometimes no so cold weather!
Batteries are a law unto themselves! 😁
Nice vid, I think the voltages are specific to your vehicle/battery, one of my cars has an AGM battery which charges at a different rate over (15V DC), on big (generator) engines the control systems are designed to survive 0 volts on start up, with internal capacitors, not sure if cars would utilise the same principals.
Thanks for sharing the info! A lot of my cars have AGM batteries these days. The load test works pretty well on this type of battery for a normal road car. Usually if the voltage drops below about 9.5v during cranking I have found that standard cars often won’t start. Just to add that I agree, charging voltages are getting more complicated, some modern cars vary the charging rate depending on what they have detected the battery condition to be. Some of the more efficient cars, stop charging the battery and the alternator disconnects on an electric clutch if it is full, apparently saves a couple of mpg. Cheers, Phil
Great video. Earned my subscription and a thumbs up
Thanks and Welcome aboard!
Great info, thanks from Texas!
Glad it was helpful! Always good to hear from Texas! 🤠
Great video. Thanks.....very professional advice.
Thank you!
Interesting info - I didn’t know you could check load this way but it makes sense - thank you!
Thank you. Great tutorial
Thank you! ☺️
I would like to add a bad starter can also drag battery voltage down. So before condemning a battery as bad you must also determine the amount of amps being drawn by the starter. A bad starter say one for example with bad bearings will draw more amperage than a good starter which can falsely indicate a bad battery during this type of test.
Can we amp clamp the wire to the starter? How many amps should we expect?
Thank you for this arcane knowledge. 🙂
No probs, cheers for you comment! 👍😎
That Was Good, Man! You Can Do A-lot With A Multimeter. No Crappy Music & A Real Live Person Narrating! Thank You. (Comment #224)
Thanks a lot for the comment! Is it really up to 224? Wow! Cheers, Phil
Very good video.
How will a faulty starter motor or wiring, earth etc effect those results?
A faulty earth will cause the voltage at the starter voltage to drop below what the voltage at the battery does, this can be measured by connecting the voltmeter between the battery's negative post (not the connection but the actual terminal belonging to the battery) and the case of the starter itself, ideally this shouldn't read more than 0.2V and a reading of around 0.5V or higher will start having an effect of the performance of your starter
Thanks! Super useful info 👍
Great video, but no link in the description for the battery drain test... well i cant find it...
Thanks for your video. I have learned something today. !!!!! Thanks
Glad to hear it! 😎 cheers, Phil
Good and accurate presentation.
You should always trust people with Fluke multimeter 😂
The biggest problem with Pb autobatteries, they don't like to stay uncharged. If you don't use your car for long periods or you drive only 10 minutes to work every day, consider buying a cheap battery charger-mainateiner. I am from Canada and I have 4 (four!) plugs sticking out of my car:
1. Block heater
2. Buddy interior heater
3. Battery blanket
4. Battery mainteiner
This is crazy, but -40 C is not a joke
Agree, in those temperatures, you’ve got to be an expert in maintaining your vehicle and battery against the cold. 🥶 Sounds like you have got it nailed! 👍😎
So you can't trust us=electrician who don't have a fluke multimeter???
We have a Bosch multimeter 😂😂
When I was a kid, dad put a blanket on the engine to keep it happy over nite when it snowed..
My meter is a God Knows Who flung dung. But is true RMS cat 4
So if I wreck it I get another free with life time warranty. I got my 3rd about 2 weeks ago.
I was thinking the same thing when I saw it 😂
Very clear and helpful.
Thanks!
Very helpful.
Thanks for making this.
Awesome video. Really helpful. Thanks so much.
Thank you for a very good video
Thank you! 👍😀
Another thing to think about is surface charge. Turn headlites on with engine off for 3 minutes to drain surface charge before test.
Thanks for tip! I was aware that you needed to wait a while after charging to dissipate the surface charge but using the headlights to speed up the process is a good idea 👍
Very informative and helpful, thank you.
I feel SO smart now! Thank you!
Brilliant, thanks.
Glad you liked it! 👍😀
great job............ thanks
Great practicle video :)
Thanks! 😎
My voltage is displayed on my dash on my bike. When I first power up, before cranking, the V sometimes shows it's as low as 6-7v but rapidly rising until it slowly creeps up to 12.2 where I crank it. If I try to start it too soon it dies momentarily and the bike does a factory reset. Usually the 2nd crank it starts up fine.
Very weird symptoms! I haven’t come across that before…
@@ReviveMyRide I think there's a big load on it, just as I power it on. It has automatic suspension control which I think it tests as well as a servo motor on the exhaust valve, ABS pump, all kinds of diagnostics I don't even understand. There's a whirring noise which doesn't seem to go away either.
I just bought the Topdon BT20 load tester so maybe that will reveal some of what's going on with my starting issues, as sometimes it is a bit iffy at cranking.
Batteries especially lead acid don’t have much of a gradual decline in CCA capacity. It’s common to go from starting your vehicle to almost junk when you go for the next start. Simply put end of life is abrupt. It’s just time to replace it. For piece of mind the auto parts store has a load tester to verify the battery. Just personal preference but if you can swing it a AGM style battery is better in every way to a lead acid. With all of that said verify all connections are tight and making proper contact. A weak connection can act like a bad battery or starter ect.
Just turn on the headlights on hi beam. One dead cell is the primary failure for older batteries, like 10.00 VDC.❤❤
Where's the link promised for battery draining when not in use?
Very éducational learned alot thank you
Thanks!
Great video. Now subscribed 👍👍
Thank you! And great to have you as a subscriber 👍😎 cheers, Phil
Thanks for your helpful information.
Do you have that link for the drain test, my motorhome battery keeps draining overnight and I wanted to see what is pulling the power
Really sorry, I tried doing a video because I thought I had a drain, turned out I didn't (was a different issue" and the footage then didn't make sense. Hence, no vid produced. However, I recommend this vid by Eric The Car Guy which is a really good guide to parasitic battery drain. Just tell him Phil from Revive My Ride sent you! 😜 ua-cam.com/video/KF1gijj03_0/v-deo.htmlsi=2WPHB9XpyLXjijDb
Nice example 👍🏼
cheers! 😎
Very useful. Thanks very much!
Best video i have seen
Excellent, very helpful
Nicely done 👍
Nice overview. You didn't put the other promised link in the description.
Thanks! Sorry about the link, totally forgot. I haven't done a video yet on this but there's a channel that I like to watch called "Eric the car guy". He did a good video on this, here's the link! ua-cam.com/video/KF1gijj03_0/v-deo.html Cheers, Phil
🇨🇳👍
I going to run this up to twitter a sits that time of the year and youare bang on the button.
Thank you! ☺️
That is the most unusual accent I have ever heard….! Where you from my guy!!?? Also great vid 👌
Thanks! Ha ha, Yeah, I know I have a weird accent 🤣 I’m dual nationality US / UK. Been in the UK for 30yrs, so only a little bit of American left…
Excellent and useful video.
Great video! 🫡
Proper job mate🦘🇦🇺👍🏼
What if my truck starter clicks . It’s a Duramax had two batteries . I disconnected one to get reading in each one . Each one is over 12 volts when I go to start it I can see it drops down to 11.2 or so , I’m getting 9.5-10.5 volts on the starter s wire while cranking when it does want to start , most of the time if clicks
Check your wiring for corrosion.
Are solar trickle chargers good to keep the battery topped up?
FYI, 12V wet acid battery had 6 cells each at 2.1VDC x 6 cells = 12.6VDC. Anything else, ie. “13.5VDC is considered residual voltage. So your baseline for testing a fully charged battery is 12.6VDC not 12.75VDC
Thank you
If the voltage is 3/4 or below 75% then its buggered
However it may still show the voltage is good it may still not hold a charge
This happened she got to work in the morning traveled to her second job and when she came back the car wouldn't start again
Yeah, a lot of people thing if it starts once, then it’ll be ok because it’ll charge back up again through driving but sometimes it isn’t the case once the battery starts to age. Cheers, Phil
At what outside temperature should this test be performed?
As it’s just a quick and dirty test, my opinion but I don’t think it’s super critical. Whatever temp it is outside, you don’t have a lot of control over that. It was about 15 degrees C out during my test if that helps. I would imagine your results may be different if it is below zero outside though… cheers, Phil
Great job!