Kansas City Auto Electric here, Great video. I use this tester all of the time. I love the idea that it is old school and does not cost close to 1k like some of those digital ones do. The only thing I would like to add is when checking your charging system when using this load tester DO NOT use the toggle switch on the bottom. If you do you will short out the charging system. It is read-only. I know it should be obvious but I have seen so many people that do it and wonder why their car no longer runs.
Thanks for sharing, just a couple othe things you didn’t mention, when your testing the alternator with the load tester and engine running turn on all excessories, bright lights, ac, wipers etc this will produce extra load to see how your alternator is sending juice to the battery
Before using the device, make sure it is reading zero, before connecting to battery. The device is fairly accurate, but only if it starts at zero. If it is not at zero, all of your measurements are worthless. Don't assume that it is zeroed out. If it is not at zero, use a flat screwdriver to adjust the almost-invisible screw head at the base of the needle so the needle is precisely on zero before testing. Also, the newer versions of the Cen-Tech load tester have upgraded the aircraft toggle to a low-profile switch just like the competing devices. Good improvement, in my opinion.
I've used this tester for over 35 years, still works! (Its a Chicago Electric and the load resistor is 50amps DC) MAKE SURE TERMINALS AND CABLE ENDS ARE CLEAN AND TIGHT! Just because it looks good that isnt enough. Connect it once and do these steps in this order. 1. Test battery standing voltage 2. Load test battery 3. Starters cranking draw (a defective starter will have a higher load simulating a weak/bad battery) 4. Alternator output Also, batteries are often "up" labeled on capacity ratings so a battery rated for 900 cca may only test at 800+ when new.
Extremely well done Jason. Wish I saw it BEFORE I shelled out $50 to Pep Boys! I think it is the same tester, BUT, Now I know how to use it. VERY helpful. Beats lugging in the battery every time to get tested.
Excellent video! I bought one from HF years ago and never needed to use it until today, then I realized I didn’t have ay instructions on how to use it, until I found your video! Thanks it works like a charm-my battery was toast.
Just a follow up, I had bought the toasted battery at the dealer and had them install it. I bought a new battery and installed it myself, but I found that the old battery was loose and the hold-down was not tight at the base of the battery. This I believe through vibration had shorted out a cell because the battery was only one year old. Make sure your battery hold-downs are snug and your battery doesn’t vibrate.
Had one of those devices for 3 years and just realized I was using it wrong. Thanks so much! I feel like a fool. I have a bad habit of not reading directions.
I've had one similar for years from Northern Tool. I use it in conjunction with an electronic tester that does it without a load. I like double checking with two different types.
Nice video and explanation and demonstration of a manual car battery load tester! I never knew there was a heating element inside the load tester that was used to draw the load from the car battery! Very inexpensive way to test a battery just before winter! Most car batteries will last 5~6 years at best and a car battery load test is a very inexpensive and low tech tool that everyone who owns a car should have in their DIY tool box.
Good video. FYI - Marine Cranking Amps are measured at 32 degrees F, Cold Cranking Amps(CCA) are measured at 0 degrees. A 1000 MCA rated battery is roughly equivalent to 800 CCA
You state "32 degrees F", then "0 degrees" ---- "0 degrees" what? 0 degrees Fahrenheit = minus 17.7 degrees Celsius. BTW - It states on the battery shown at 5:37 the following info - MARINE CRANKING AMPS AT 32 F (0 C).
@@luimobilefixes5279 you do not need to remove the terminals. Just make sure the car is off for testing the battery and running to check the alternator.
I can't believe I was unaware of these load testers. I started thinking about the need for such a thing this AM glad there is such a cheap product option out there. For a hobbyist the Cen-Tech is probably just fine!
Great tool to have.Many batteries may hold voltage but they lost amperage and there is no way to know just by voltmeter, especially AGM and sealed batteries where you can't measure the acid...I bought load tester for my solar battery bank, now I know if any of my batteries going bad, because if in series it takes only one bad battery to take down whole string...
The minimum crank voltage chart is intended to check if your starter may be drawing too much current, based on the reading you see with the load tester 100A load. You can find the load volts reading you see when testing with the 100A of the load tester, and the corresponding min crank volts below that number. Then watch what the voltage reading drops to when you crank the engine using the starter. It should be above the minimum, otherwise your starter may be drawing excessive current for some reason. If you have an engine smaller than 3.6L, use the next higher column, as those smaller engines don't present as much of a mechanical drag, so the voltage should not drop as much as with a larger engine. It's not a hard and fast rule, so you can just record what you see when it's all working correctly, so you have a baseline for future testing.
Some people will argue that it only puts a 100 amp load. Most batteries can be well over 550 CCA. They say the tester should test half the CCA of the battery. Well, the load testers' instructions say to test for 10 seconds and let cool for 1 min. The test cycle is 3 tests in 5 min. I've been using these for years at a professional shop. Electronic testers work well but you have to know CCA and/or amps. If the stickers are gone you can't know this. The load tester doesn't need this and it is much faster. Also, an electronic load tester may say good recharge whereas a load tester will say weak. When viewed In an escalating 0 to ok scale. The bar graph on the electronic will show the amps closer to zero but will say the battery is good. Vs the load tester just tells you it's weak. If we were to only see the graph itself without the outcome most all of us would say replace the battery and that's the difference between being stranded or not. Load testers for the win IMO.
I use to test batteries from standby generators using this load tester, a few weeks ago, a battery blew up in my face at the moment I push the button. I assume that the high amperage drawn by the tester created an ignition source within the battery causing an accumulation of gases inside to explode. I have issues hearing on one side due to the loud noise caused by this explosion. I feel lucky not to have been sprayed with acid or lose eyesight. If you decide to use this type of battery tester, know that this can happen. I have upgraded to a better, low amp, analyzer that makes that risk close to nil.
I was also taught that you can also do a load test with a multimeter and have someone attempt to crank the engine. Connect the meter and attempt to crank, if the voltage drops below 9 volts it's bad or going bad.....
This was exactly what I needed to know. I wanted to know if I could test a battery when it was not installed in a vehicle. This was a GREAT video and it explained everything so clearly. Even a dummy like me could follow it 😁😉
Jason thank you for the awesome video. I learned what I needed to learn from you. Thank You Again for taking the time to educate us and making our time to get things done more valuable!
Absolute killer video❤️ You explained everything perfectly👍🏽 So that even “POLITICIANS” or “LAWYERS” WILL UNDERSTAND! HARBOR FREIGHT should pay you a $1 Commission for everyone that you sell! Because that’s where I’m going now❤️😡
Good job I would add that, You need to take the readings and calculate the internal resistance of the battery. That is the parameter that really matters..
Figured I should buy one of these load testers after jump starting my MIL's car. Covid has a lot of people not running their cars as much. Thanks for the tutorial.
I have one of those and really felt uncomfortable using it because I just didn't understand how it worked. Now I do and will use it more in the future. In my business I have battery issues from time to time on the equipment that I use which uses a standard car battery to start it. I'm also having a possible issue right now with my car that this might help me figure out. It may have a slight parasitic drain. The car still starts even after sitting for several days, but the battery discharges some even overnight which I doubt is normal. I do know the charging system is charging the battery properly. The old battery that was in the car when I got it was clearly bad and it has been replaced.
Thanks for the video. I recently bought one of these that's Buffalo Tools branded (probably made in the same factory, it looks exactly the same as the Cen-Tech). The manual it came with was not very good. Your video cleared up a lot of stuff on how to use it.
Thank you very much for your video, I learned a lot how to test battery and I’m already bought one of these load tester, keep making an educational videos.
Thanks for info on Cen-Tech (buying today) but Just fyi....these batteries that charged over night and are still weak, need to be left on for a few more days. I just recently learned this after having discarded some batteries too early. I have 6 batteries in my barn right now going thru this multi-day charging because of our cold snap...its a long process, but may avoid wasting money.
If battery has came off of a recent charge , leave headlights and heater blower on for a minute to remove the battery surface charge for accurate testing .
thanks so much for explaining things. i am refurbinshing my 1st battery and bought this today. going to come in handy after these 5 rounds of 15 minutes on the 200 amp.thanks a lot
@@paulofthewoods0787 no luck. i end up buying a battery..someone said the battery charger i bought isnt strong enough and that they dont make them the way they need to be. if you can find an older 1 on craigs list or something i think you would be able to do it.
Read the instructions, what? I'm too smart for that! Cost me hours of cleaning connections, installing a new starter and massive embarrassment when the battery turned out to actually be the culprit. I had been told that, "Advance Auto Parts checked the battery and found it "Good"". I double checked that finding with my trusty Harbor Freight Load Tester, and confirmed their result more than once. Been many years since I last used it, and apparently forgot the procedure you outlined... To my detriment! I just checked that same battery again, with the same meter, and it's VERY obviously bad. Who knows, maybe I'll learn from this.
I could be wrong but I have always thought that a fully charged 12 volt battery should test at 13 volts or slightly more. If it shows only 12 it is in need of more charging . This is why wipers, lights and maybe other components might work but the battery isn't strong enough to start the vehicle.
Great video. Living on a farm I have over 20 different pieces of equipment that take batteries. From tractors to generators to cars, trucks, motorcycles, mowers and snowblower I'm always replacing batteries in something. Don't know why I never bought a load tester but on my next trip to town I'll be stopping at Harbor Freight for one.
Thanks man for that information, good battery, the needle shouldn't drop bellow the 1000 mark, i was confused about the reading, the needle drop to 600 CCA and i thought that the tool telling me thst my battery is still good, but it is not, because it dosent start the car at the cold bellow zero after leaving it one day at the car , and also it dosent crank the car after two or three days left in the car when temperature is arround 40 F,
Thanks for the information. My main cranking battery on my boat reads 12.6 and it will not start the engine. I can jump it with the trolling motor batteries but there's clearly a problem. Now I can check to see if that's the problem. Great video and I subscribed!!!
@4:28 - the battery voltage is 12.4v ( about 66% capacity ) . While load testing, the voltage dropped down to 11v and settled at just above 800 CCA. A healthy battery even at 66% capacity should not drop that fast during this type of load test.
If you are handy enough, it's a great tool, the video is very instructive and can get you out of trouble. Now, I have a question, I wonder if I'll get an answer to it: There's the harbor freight digital tester which I guess is not capable of testing "load", is it worth for any reason to have both?
That tester really comes in handy. They had those around even when I was a kid so we're talking 60s and 70s and they were still using them in gas stations all the way up until the 90s. I used to have a electric reservoir boat in the '90s. I had testers battery chargers battery acid I also had one of the devices that you would take the caps off the battery and check the fluid and it would tell you if that cell is bad or good. For a million dollars I cannot think of the name of that gauge. I always know the name of that and right now my mind is blank. But that is absolutely the best method to find out if you have a bad cell. Even though modern batteries are all pretty much maintenance free you can still use a small enough screwdriver to take the caps off. If you find one of your cells is down you can ONLY use distilled water not a bottle of deer Park distilled water there's no minerals in distilled water. You can find it in most every drugstore and sometimes convenience stores. If you do a Google search on the gauge it will give you the name of it and they're not very expensive. Now you really don't need a big container of acid if you're only working on car or truck batteries. At any given time during any open boat season I could have anywhere from 10 to 12 batteries and some people would even have more than that. You gave a very good demonstration on how to use this device. I always like to watch when people give demonstrations sometimes you learn something that you never knew. Thanks for sharing your knowledge look forward to seeing your next video.
The device to test the cells is called a hygrometer. Specific gravity is what it measures and a cell should have 1.65 I think. And below that by much it's a dead shell. I want to know how much the harbor freight load tester is. Too lazy to Google
Looks to me like your load test in this video is at the beginning of the range for the 800CCA, not the 1000CCA. Wouldn't that mean the battery is producing far less CCA than it should be, and indicating a weak battery?
Excellent video Mr Jason, Very didactic, even though you are not a Harbor Freight Tools salesman, I manage to motivate myself to buy one. Thank you very much for uploading the video, I am your new subscriber, Have a good day.
Jason thank you for a good video, i bought one at harbor freight I think it will come in handy. I have a riding lawnmower, atv, and two cars. Thank you 👍
Thanks I could have used this when I took my mom's car to the gas station as a favor and filled up the tank and then it wouldn't start. I thought it was the battery but this man at the gas station argued me up and down telling me it couldn't possibly be the battery because it's trying to crank and all my lights are working. So I paid a tow truck $90.00 to take it to a shop and then payed them another $140 for a diagnostic and of course it turned out it was just the battery.
Watching your load tester video. So we need to completely disconnect everything from the batteries in the boat to load test? I know not if I’m testing the starting system but otherwise
Bought one of these on Amazon. The switch on the bottom was broken. Returned it and got a replacement. That one was also broken. ( The gauge was falling off and something rattling inside ) . I've yet to get my money back.
hello im new here. Getting me a tester tomorrow like most recommended. 20 bucks. I have this RV that keeps dying. At first it crunk like every 3 days but since Ive been tampering with it since I bought it from some one it seems to not crank the next day. I dont know if I charged the battery on the wrong setting, jumped it wrong with my everstart jump starter or what ( do i connect the black clamp THEN red both to the terminals to jump it correctly or the black MUST be clamped to a bolt or piece of the vehicle?) I recently did it to both terminals and it worked but I don't know if that ruined anything. Also I want to know how to even identify the battery type, I have to take it but I havent yet. Mind you I'm NEW to learning car components and stuff like that, late blooomer. But i learned a lot thus far. I jumped my rv like 3 times now and keep the JS charged from the house just incase I need it. Anyway my RV is OLD , 1985 chevy. I was sold this and its probably been sitting so i dont know the fully history of it but it defin works. I may just have to get someone to inspect it.
Kansas City Auto Electric here, Great video. I use this tester all of the time. I love the idea that it is old school and does not cost close to 1k like some of those digital ones do. The only thing I would like to add is when checking your charging system when using this load tester DO NOT use the toggle switch on the bottom. If you do you will short out the charging system. It is read-only. I know it should be obvious but I have seen so many people that do it and wonder why their car no longer runs.
Glad you have us a warning on that! I’ll keep my paws off that switch when doing that. Thanks!
Oh so now you tell me😤
Joking, that is good to know though! Woulda probably flipped that damn switch had I not read this
@ Hurricane. Thank you so much! There's a good chance I may have switched that toggle, too!
Uh oh lol
Thanks they should put this in gigantic bold warning letters on the device itself .
Who needs a digital $100 plus battery tester when this analog on does it all. This video explains it all quite thoroughly. Great presentation.
A digital tester will also give insight about your charging system.
Thanks for sharing, just a couple othe things you didn’t mention, when your testing the alternator with the load tester and engine running turn on all excessories, bright lights, ac, wipers etc this will produce extra load to see how your alternator is sending juice to the battery
Before using the device, make sure it is reading zero, before connecting to battery. The device is fairly accurate, but only if it starts at zero. If it is not at zero, all of your measurements are worthless. Don't assume that it is zeroed out.
If it is not at zero, use a flat screwdriver to adjust the almost-invisible screw head at the base of the needle so the needle is precisely on zero before testing.
Also, the newer versions of the Cen-Tech load tester have upgraded the aircraft toggle to a low-profile switch just like the competing devices. Good improvement, in my opinion.
Out of the 633 of us.............I bet 80% of your subscribers OWN one of these now😳❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
I've used this tester for over 35 years, still works! (Its a Chicago Electric and the load resistor is 50amps DC)
MAKE SURE TERMINALS AND CABLE ENDS ARE CLEAN AND TIGHT! Just because it looks good that isnt enough.
Connect it once and do these steps in this order.
1. Test battery standing voltage
2. Load test battery
3. Starters cranking draw (a defective starter will have a higher load simulating a weak/bad battery)
4. Alternator output
Also, batteries are often "up" labeled on capacity ratings so a battery rated for 900 cca may only test at 800+ when new.
Isn't it 100A, not 50?
@@wingerrrrrrrrr it's possible that the new ones are 100 amp, mine are 50 amp (verified with an amp meter)
@@tomc585 with 12V applied, it only draws 50A? Or did your battery drop to 6V during the measurement?
@@wingerrrrrrrrr it maintained 12.5
@@wingerrrrrrrrr like I said, it's an older version. Are the new ones rated 100amps? Being Chinese made I'd suspect an up bragging on the specs.
Was sitting parking lot of Harbor Freight waiting on my wife to get out of a store when I saw this video. I ran in and got one. lol!
Extremely well done Jason. Wish I saw it BEFORE I shelled out $50 to Pep Boys! I think it is the same tester, BUT, Now I know how to use it. VERY helpful.
Beats lugging in the battery every time to get tested.
Excellent video! I bought one from HF years ago and never needed to use it until today, then I realized I didn’t have ay instructions on how to use it, until I found your video! Thanks it works like a charm-my battery was toast.
Just a follow up, I had bought the toasted battery at the dealer and had them install it. I bought a new battery and installed it myself, but I found that the old battery was loose and the hold-down was not tight at the base of the battery. This I believe through vibration had shorted out a cell because the battery was only one year old. Make sure your battery hold-downs are snug and your battery doesn’t vibrate.
Thank you so much. You're the 1st one I've been able to learn anything from watching UA-cam. I plan to follow from here on out.
Had one of those devices for 3 years and just realized I was using it wrong. Thanks so much! I feel like a fool. I have a bad habit of not reading directions.
Thank You for this video , it was amazing, getting round to it , no excessive talking . Very instructive. I give it 2 thumbs up and a “Like”.
I've had one similar for years from Northern Tool. I use it in conjunction with an electronic tester that does it without a load. I like double checking with two different types.
I got mine at Harbor Freight 30 years ago. I have a modern digital battery tester as well. I use both.
Nice video and explanation and demonstration of a manual car battery load tester! I never knew there was a heating element inside the load tester that was used to draw the load from the car battery!
Very inexpensive way to test a battery just before winter! Most car batteries will last 5~6 years at best and a car battery load test is a very inexpensive and low tech tool that everyone who owns a car should have in their DIY tool box.
Good video. FYI - Marine Cranking Amps are measured at 32 degrees F, Cold Cranking Amps(CCA) are measured at 0 degrees. A 1000 MCA rated battery is roughly equivalent to 800 CCA
You state "32 degrees F", then "0 degrees" ---- "0 degrees" what?
0 degrees Fahrenheit = minus 17.7 degrees Celsius.
BTW - It states on the battery shown at 5:37 the following info -
MARINE CRANKING AMPS AT 32 F (0 C).
@@fircombehall7495 Fahrenheit
Can we test this on the car, I mean with terminals on the battery 🔋or do we need to disconnect the terminals?
@@luimobilefixes5279 you do not need to remove the terminals. Just make sure the car is off for testing the battery and running to check the alternator.
that's why the needle went to 800. lol. not 1000.
I can't believe I was unaware of these load testers. I started thinking about the need for such a thing this AM glad there is such a cheap product option out there. For a hobbyist the Cen-Tech is probably just fine!
Great tool to have.Many batteries may hold voltage but they lost amperage and there is no way to know just by voltmeter, especially AGM and sealed batteries where you can't measure the acid...I bought load tester for my solar battery bank, now I know if any of my batteries going bad, because if in series it takes only one bad battery to take down whole string...
This is a great video! You explained how it works, and precautions in a simple manner.
Best! Battery Tester Video I've seen...💦..Big Thank You, to Jason
Great easy to understand video,you didnt talk about the lower (yellow) scale regarding crank voltage.
The minimum crank voltage chart is intended to check if your starter may be drawing too much current, based on the reading you see with the load tester 100A load.
You can find the load volts reading you see when testing with the 100A of the load tester, and the corresponding min crank volts below that number.
Then watch what the voltage reading drops to when you crank the engine using the starter.
It should be above the minimum, otherwise your starter may be drawing excessive current for some reason.
If you have an engine smaller than 3.6L, use the next higher column, as those smaller engines don't present as much of a mechanical drag, so the voltage should not drop as much as with a larger engine.
It's not a hard and fast rule, so you can just record what you see when it's all working correctly, so you have a baseline for future testing.
Looks to me like the needle was at the beginning of the 800 range, not the 1000 range.
I was looking for this comment. 1000 seems awfully optimistic.
Some people will argue that it only puts a 100 amp load. Most batteries can be well over 550 CCA.
They say the tester should test half the CCA of the battery. Well, the load testers' instructions say to test for 10 seconds and let cool for 1 min. The test cycle is 3 tests in 5 min. I've been using these for years at a professional shop. Electronic testers work well but you have to know CCA and/or amps. If the stickers are gone you can't know this. The load tester doesn't need this and it is much faster. Also, an electronic load tester may say good recharge whereas a load tester will say weak.
When viewed In an escalating 0 to ok scale. The bar graph on the electronic will show the amps closer to zero but will say the battery is good. Vs the load tester just tells you it's weak. If we were to only see the graph itself without the outcome most all of us would say replace the battery and that's the difference between being stranded or not. Load testers for the win IMO.
I use to test batteries from standby generators using this load tester, a few weeks ago, a battery blew up in my face at the moment I push the button. I assume that the high amperage drawn by the tester created an ignition source within the battery causing an accumulation of gases inside to explode. I have issues hearing on one side due to the loud noise caused by this explosion. I feel lucky not to have been sprayed with acid or lose eyesight. If you decide to use this type of battery tester, know that this can happen. I have upgraded to a better, low amp, analyzer that makes that risk close to nil.
I was also taught that you can also do a load test with a multimeter and have someone attempt to crank the engine. Connect the meter and attempt to crank, if the voltage drops below 9 volts it's bad or going bad.....
Thank you for taking the time to show an dyi how to use this device. Now that i know how to use this. I will definately be buying 1 of these.
This was exactly what I needed to know. I wanted to know if I could test a battery when it was not installed in a vehicle. This was a GREAT video and it explained everything so clearly. Even a dummy like me could follow it 😁😉
ua-cam.com/video/6RwDGLPEXww/v-deo.htmlsi=rPxEJ8bkJI4kdcYa
The fact that analogs have a zero feature, and most digital don’t - makes these styles all I need.
Your video instruction is one of the best on UA-cam, buddy! Followed you for more!
Thanks for sharing
Jason thank you for the awesome video. I learned what I needed to learn from you. Thank You Again for taking the time to educate us and making our time to get things done more valuable!
You're welcome.
Absolute killer video❤️ You explained everything perfectly👍🏽
So that even “POLITICIANS” or “LAWYERS” WILL UNDERSTAND!
HARBOR FREIGHT should pay you a $1 Commission for everyone that you sell!
Because that’s where I’m going now❤️😡
Good job I would add that, You need to take the readings and calculate the internal resistance of the battery. That is the parameter that really matters..
I use this for a load test. To analyze the battery CCA and resistance I use the yellow cen-tech digital battery analyzer
Figured I should buy one of these load testers after jump starting my MIL's car. Covid has a lot of people not running their cars as much. Thanks for the tutorial.
Only way to truly load test a battery!
I have one of those and really felt uncomfortable using it because I just didn't understand how it worked. Now I do and will use it more in the future. In my business I have battery issues from time to time on the equipment that I use which uses a standard car battery to start it. I'm also having a possible issue right now with my car that this might help me figure out. It may have a slight parasitic drain. The car still starts even after sitting for several days, but the battery discharges some even overnight which I doubt is normal. I do know the charging system is charging the battery properly. The old battery that was in the car when I got it was clearly bad and it has been replaced.
Thanks for the video. I recently bought one of these that's Buffalo Tools branded (probably made in the same factory, it looks exactly the same as the Cen-Tech). The manual it came with was not very good. Your video cleared up a lot of stuff on how to use it.
Very clear description and demonstration.
I’ve had countless times where the battery shows bad on this device and when I take it in and it is tested. The battery shows good.
Thank you very much for your video, I learned a lot how to test battery and I’m already bought one of these load tester, keep making an educational videos.
Thank you
I just bought one I didn’t understand how to use the seller done bad job in explaining
But the video was an excellent
Thanks for info on Cen-Tech (buying today) but Just fyi....these batteries that charged over night and are still weak, need to be left on for a few more days. I just recently learned this after having discarded some batteries too early. I have 6 batteries in my barn right now going thru this multi-day charging because of our cold snap...its a long process, but may avoid wasting money.
If battery has came off of a recent charge , leave headlights and heater blower on for a minute to remove the battery surface charge for accurate testing .
thanks so much for explaining things. i am refurbinshing my 1st battery and bought this today. going to come in handy after these 5 rounds of 15 minutes on the 200 amp.thanks a lot
Any luck? I'm about to try that too.
@@paulofthewoods0787 no luck. i end up buying a battery..someone said the battery charger i bought isnt strong enough and that they dont make them the way they need to be. if you can find an older 1 on craigs list or something i think you would be able to do it.
@@bradsheppard6407 200amps is at least 2400-2800 watts, you need 240v connection min to produce that
@@DarkLinkAD you are exactly right. that machine didnt do squat.
@@bradsheppard6407 a battery is never charged at that rate, those types of things are intended to supply current momentarily to start
Read the instructions, what? I'm too smart for that! Cost me hours of cleaning connections, installing a new starter and massive embarrassment when the battery turned out to actually be the culprit.
I had been told that, "Advance Auto Parts checked the battery and found it "Good"". I double checked that finding with my trusty Harbor Freight Load Tester, and confirmed their result more than once. Been many years since I last used it, and apparently forgot the procedure you outlined... To my detriment! I just checked that same battery again, with the same meter, and it's VERY obviously bad. Who knows, maybe I'll learn from this.
Great job. I just bought this tester today and needed this video. Thanks.
Hes very pleasant. Its easy to understand!! He addresses all imp issues!!!
Best explanation so far. Thanks
I could be wrong but I have always thought that a fully charged 12 volt battery should test at 13 volts or slightly more.
If it shows only 12 it is in need of more charging . This is why wipers, lights and maybe other components might work but the battery isn't strong enough to start the vehicle.
Fantastic video! I just picked one up today on sale reg $35.00 on for $14.00 🙂
Hello Sir, can you tell me where you bought yours, and what brand is it.
Great video. Living on a farm I have over 20 different pieces of equipment that take batteries. From tractors to generators to cars, trucks, motorcycles, mowers and snowblower I'm always replacing batteries in something. Don't know why I never bought a load tester but on my next trip to town I'll be stopping at Harbor Freight for one.
Excellent video. Just bought one and with your help I now know how to use it. THANKS
It would've been good if you showed how to use this load tester to Load Test both the Charging System and the Starter. Cheers
Thank you for a step by step, easy to understand video.
Thank you that was excellent info...
Thanks man for that information, good battery, the needle shouldn't drop bellow the 1000 mark, i was confused about the reading, the needle drop to 600 CCA and i thought that the tool telling me thst my battery is still good, but it is not, because it dosent start the car at the cold bellow zero after leaving it one day at the car , and also it dosent crank the car after two or three days left in the car when temperature is arround 40 F,
Excellent video! Clear and helpful instructions. Thank you.
Thank you for posting. This was very helpful.
Thanks for the information. My main cranking battery on my boat reads 12.6 and it will not start the engine. I can jump it with the trolling motor batteries but there's clearly a problem. Now I can check to see if that's the problem. Great video and I subscribed!!!
@4:28 - the battery voltage is 12.4v ( about 66% capacity ) . While load testing, the voltage dropped down to 11v and settled at just above 800 CCA. A healthy battery even at 66% capacity should not drop that fast during this type of load test.
If you are handy enough, it's a great tool, the video is very instructive and can get you out of trouble.
Now, I have a question, I wonder if I'll get an answer to it:
There's the harbor freight digital tester which I guess is not capable of testing "load", is it worth for any reason to have both?
That tester really comes in handy. They had those around even when I was a kid so we're talking 60s and 70s and they were still using them in gas stations all the way up until the 90s.
I used to have a electric reservoir boat in the '90s. I had testers battery chargers battery acid I also had one of the devices that you would take the caps off the battery and check the fluid and it would tell you if that cell is bad or good. For a million dollars I cannot think of the name of that gauge. I always know the name of that and right now my mind is blank. But that is absolutely the best method to find out if you have a bad cell. Even though modern batteries are all pretty much maintenance free you can still use a small enough screwdriver to take the caps off. If you find one of your cells is down you can ONLY use distilled water not a bottle of deer Park distilled water there's no minerals in distilled water. You can find it in most every drugstore and sometimes convenience stores. If you do a Google search on the gauge it will give you the name of it and they're not very expensive. Now you really don't need a big container of acid if you're only working on car or truck batteries. At any given time during any open boat season I could have anywhere from 10 to 12 batteries and some people would even have more than that.
You gave a very good demonstration on how to use this device. I always like to watch when people give demonstrations sometimes you learn something that you never knew. Thanks for sharing your knowledge look forward to seeing your next video.
So we'll described and explained. Not 1 like!?!?!? Good show. Thank you
The device to test the cells is called a hygrometer. Specific gravity is what it measures and a cell should have 1.65 I think. And below that by much it's a dead shell. I want to know how much the harbor freight load tester is. Too lazy to Google
Did you charge the battery all the way up first? I might have missed you saying that. For me, it makes a big difference. good video
The idea is good but you need a carbon Pyle to draw the same amperage as your starter would and that one will not do it. I have one too but.
Looks to me like your load test in this video is at the beginning of the range for the 800CCA, not the 1000CCA. Wouldn't that mean the battery is producing far less CCA than it should be, and indicating a weak battery?
Thank you for the description. I have one of these and clearly missed some of the details you pointed out. This video helped me out greatly.
Excellent video Mr Jason, Very didactic, even though you are not a Harbor Freight Tools salesman, I manage to motivate myself to buy one. Thank you very much for uploading the video, I am your new subscriber, Have a good day.
Great simple and clear explanation....thank you
what part of the needle should we look into?
top,middle or bottom? coz the needle drops to 200 400 600 and weak part at the same time
Can this work with a golf cart 8v battery?
Jason thank you for a good video, i bought one at harbor freight I think it will come in handy. I have a riding lawnmower, atv, and two cars. Thank you 👍
Cool. I just bought one yesterday at Harbor Freight.
Does it still work 2 years later?
Thanks for a great video Jason. Surely will helps me.
Just going tomorrow to get one and seen your video 😊 tks
Excellent video!! thank you for explaining things so well bud.
Well done video, Jason ❤
Thanks I could have used this when I took my mom's car to the gas station as a favor and filled up the tank and then it wouldn't start.
I thought it was the battery but this man at the gas station argued me up and down telling me it couldn't possibly be the battery because it's trying to crank and all my lights are working.
So I paid a tow truck $90.00 to take it to a shop and then payed them another $140 for a diagnostic and of course it turned out it was just the battery.
Very Good, simple and thorough and to the point.
Wonderful detail, appreciated closeups. What else have you tested?
Would you please explain the bottom yellow horizontal window? Thanks.
Thank you brother for another great video. I got learned a lot. Thanks again and GOD BLESS. Mike
Can u use it to test if your starter is pulling to much juice
Nice, informative and to the point. Keep it up. Cheers.
Scored one at Walmart clearance isle less thank HF....thanks for the vid
You covered all the bases excellent tutorial.
Awesome video. Real teacher!
What resistance number is too high as a warning to replace the battery
i wonder if a battery analyzer is better, they both seem to do the same stuff.
Great video for the novice. Thank you
Can you get something like this to test deep cycle lithium batteries?
Watching your load tester video. So we need to completely disconnect everything from the batteries in the boat to load test? I know not if I’m testing the starting system but otherwise
What does the yellow bar with number on the bottom mean?😁😁😁
Bought one of these on Amazon. The switch on the bottom was broken. Returned it and got a replacement. That one was also broken. ( The gauge was falling off and something rattling inside ) . I've yet to get my money back.
Good, simple and clear instructions. Thanks.
Great video. I got a few batteries sitting around to test.
Very timely and informative
Can I test with the load tester while still connected in the car?
hello im new here. Getting me a tester tomorrow like most recommended. 20 bucks. I have this RV that keeps dying. At first it crunk like every 3 days but since Ive been tampering with it since I bought it from some one it seems to not crank the next day. I dont know if I charged the battery on the wrong setting, jumped it wrong with my everstart jump starter or what ( do i connect the black clamp THEN red both to the terminals to jump it correctly or the black MUST be clamped to a bolt or piece of the vehicle?) I recently did it to both terminals and it worked but I don't know if that ruined anything.
Also I want to know how to even identify the battery type, I have to take it but I havent yet. Mind you I'm NEW to learning car components and stuff like that, late blooomer. But i learned a lot thus far. I jumped my rv like 3 times now and keep the JS charged from the house just incase I need it. Anyway my RV is OLD , 1985 chevy. I was sold this and its probably been sitting so i dont know the fully history of it but it defin works. I may just have to get someone to inspect it.
GReat Vid - btw it is called a meter movement, not a dial