Thanks for the clarification. I have a similar engine, M54, with a mileage of 400,000 km. Note that I am in the country of Iraq, whose temperatures in summer reach 45 degrees and lows at night are 15 degrees
I am original owner of a 2001 525i with 128K miles on it. I bought several extended warranties until I took on maintaining my car myself. I change my oil/filter once a year regardless. The last oil change, I thought I had replaced the o ring on the oil filter cap and had not. I found out very quickly that reusing the old O-ring would not do. It becomes square over time (fried) and, in my case, caused an annoying oil leak. The real benign oil leak I have under my car is caused by the rear main seal failing. Weirdly, the lost of oil usually is 1/2 quart every 6 or 8 months...slow. I haven't gotten up the courage yet to remove the auto transmission to fix that seal, but that train is coming down the track. Thanks for the videos, very informative.
I kind of liked the story time, just rambling about BMWs and stuff just like I do, I have a 530i with 220k driven hard at times but i do all the preventive maintenance
@@Casey_Schmidt yes definitely amazing, I don't think they actually make them like this nowadays but I could be wrong with turbocharging and all that the reliability is reduced
Yes, you definitely should do that so the engine doesn't run dry for the first few seconds. I clicked on the video especially because it said the right way. Not pre- filling the oil filter housing with oil is NOT the right way.
This is off topic, but how are you meant to take the fan shroud and fan up and out of the car when the plastic coolant reservoir is clearly part of the plastic fan shroud assembly? I'm a bit confused by that
@Antiochia ad Taurum - To remove the fan shroud, remove the four plastic rivets (two on top and two on bottom), remove the cooling fan (left hand thread I think?), remove two coolant hoses from some clips at the bottom and it should come out. It’s probably the hardest and most annoying job on an E39 other than maybe a clutch. The E46 is way easier.
@@Casey_Schmidt With the shroud partially lifted and unscrewing the small runoff tube to the reservoir, I have started putting a screw in that rubber hose that runs to the other end of the radiator to stop the Coolant from leaking. Then, with the reservoir still connected to the other 2 hoses below and the bleed screw completely closed, I remove those 2 hoses and the reservoir from the shroud and set the reservoir over towards the DSC area so that it's out of the way but won't fall. The point is to get that weight off the shroud. I don't have to worry about coolant if I do that. Dealing with coolant is my least favorite part of working on my car.
Are you referring to the CCV hose at the front of the valve cover? I just used some 3/4” radiator hose for that. It doesn’t need to be anything fancy unless you’re going for a cleaner look. If you want to source the actual M56 CCV hose, I recommend finding the part numbers from realoem.com and splicing something underneath the intake manifold.
First of all I start the engine and keep it runnin for about 5 min Oil get warmer Turn engine off I release the oil filter cap And let it drain Only than I do the oil change
That is better than not running the engine at all before draining it, but it’s best to go for a 15-20 minute drive to get the oil good and hot and the suspended deposits well mixed around.
The Mann filter is made in Mexico, the Mahle filter is made in Austria. That on top of the Mahle having plastic end caps instead of paper makes it a fairly easy choice for me. You’re free to use either as you wish.
@@anthonyvita303 - I’ve used two different methods. One. Press your thumbs against the central cage while using your fingers to pull the filter towards your palms. If you need more force, place the pointed end of the cage down on a sturdy table then wrap your thumbs and fingers around the filter and push it towards the table top. Exerting too much force, regardless of method, could result in cracking the plastic, so be mindful of that.
@@anthonyvita303 - It simply screws off. If it is really really stuck, you could VERY carefully use a chanellock wrench for extra leverage. If it is that old and gummed up, it may be best to replace it as preventative maintenance.
Thanks for the clarification. I have a similar engine, M54, with a mileage of 400,000 km. Note that I am in the country of Iraq, whose temperatures in summer reach 45 degrees and lows at night are 15 degrees
I am original owner of a 2001 525i with 128K miles on it. I bought several extended warranties until I took on maintaining my car myself. I change my oil/filter once a year regardless. The last oil change, I thought I had replaced the o ring on the oil filter cap and had not. I found out very quickly that reusing the old O-ring would not do. It becomes square over time (fried) and, in my case, caused an annoying oil leak. The real benign oil leak I have under my car is caused by the rear main seal failing. Weirdly, the lost of oil usually is 1/2 quart every 6 or 8 months...slow. I haven't gotten up the courage yet to remove the auto transmission to fix that seal, but that train is coming down the track. Thanks for the videos, very informative.
I kind of liked the story time, just rambling about BMWs and stuff just like I do, I have a 530i with 220k driven hard at times but i do all the preventive maintenance
My 525i is nearing 220k now and still runs perfectly! Isn’t is amazing how well these old M54’s run?
@@Casey_Schmidt yes definitely amazing, I don't think they actually make them like this nowadays but I could be wrong with turbocharging and all that the reliability is reduced
Video nicely done. Good little tips too, like with the crush washer.
Top work, good guide. /from Sweden
Does anyone bother priming the oil filter by partially filling up the chamber prior to refitting filter/cap?
I always put oil in the filter before install. It soaks up a lot and improves the initial flow.
Yes, you definitely should do that so the engine doesn't run dry for the first few seconds. I clicked on the video especially because it said the right way. Not pre- filling the oil filter housing with oil is NOT the right way.
I can't believe you did not razzle dazzle at the end. If you know you know.
Clearly I didn’t know.
very good detailed video... I personally use Liqui Moly 5w30 LL1 . it is a bit more expensive
I use 10w-40
@@michaeltinajero8014 unless you live in saudi arabia, that's retarded
This is off topic, but how are you meant to take the fan shroud and fan up and out of the car when the plastic coolant reservoir is clearly part of the plastic fan shroud assembly? I'm a bit confused by that
@Antiochia ad Taurum - To remove the fan shroud, remove the four plastic rivets (two on top and two on bottom), remove the cooling fan (left hand thread I think?), remove two coolant hoses from some clips at the bottom and it should come out. It’s probably the hardest and most annoying job on an E39 other than maybe a clutch. The E46 is way easier.
@@Casey_Schmidt With the shroud partially lifted and unscrewing the small runoff tube to the reservoir, I have started putting a screw in that rubber hose that runs to the other end of the radiator to stop the Coolant from leaking. Then, with the reservoir still connected to the other 2 hoses below and the bleed screw completely closed, I remove those 2 hoses and the reservoir from the shroud and set the reservoir over towards the DSC area so that it's out of the way but won't fall. The point is to get that weight off the shroud. I don't have to worry about coolant if I do that. Dealing with coolant is my least favorite part of working on my car.
i just did the m56 cover swap where can i get the piece of hose for the m54 to m56 hose?
Are you referring to the CCV hose at the front of the valve cover? I just used some 3/4” radiator hose for that. It doesn’t need to be anything fancy unless you’re going for a cleaner look. If you want to source the actual M56 CCV hose, I recommend finding the part numbers from realoem.com and splicing something underneath the intake manifold.
First of all I start the engine and keep it runnin for about 5 min
Oil get warmer
Turn engine off
I release the oil filter cap
And let it drain
Only than I do the oil change
That is better than not running the engine at all before draining it, but it’s best to go for a 15-20 minute drive to get the oil good and hot and the suspended deposits well mixed around.
Never mahle...mann is what you need
The Mann filter is made in Mexico, the Mahle filter is made in Austria. That on top of the Mahle having plastic end caps instead of paper makes it a fairly easy choice for me. You’re free to use either as you wish.
@@Casey_Schmidt i live in europe..mann is better quality here than mahle ..but many things now made in china ...that makes it difficult
Great video but add new oil to filter beforehand.
No you dont
Why is my oil filter not separating from my oil cap?
@Anthony Vita - Sometimes it takes a lot of force.
@@Casey_Schmidt how do I apply said force?
@@anthonyvita303 - I’ve used two different methods. One. Press your thumbs against the central cage while using your fingers to pull the filter towards your palms. If you need more force, place the pointed end of the cage down on a sturdy table then wrap your thumbs and fingers around the filter and push it towards the table top. Exerting too much force, regardless of method, could result in cracking the plastic, so be mindful of that.
@@Casey_Schmidt and the power steering cap? As it is firmly stuck in place lol
@@anthonyvita303 - It simply screws off. If it is really really stuck, you could VERY carefully use a chanellock wrench for extra leverage. If it is that old and gummed up, it may be best to replace it as preventative maintenance.