Watching your entire clip reminds me of one of my favorite instructor teaching automotive technology class at the community college . Very professional.
Had both p0171 and p0174 very long start and rough under load. Had fuel trims at 20% plus. Looked for vacuum leaks, checked maf censor, checked fuel relay for resistance, checked power to fuel pump checked all fuel injectors. Tested fuel pressure it was at 30psi! Replaced fuel pump oem BMW. Still at 30psi replaced fuel reg. Fuel pressure now at 70psi. Thank God!
Fixed my CCV vacuum leak at 150k and and got p171 and p1734 twice since the leak fix. Over the last 100k Both times was clogged air filter and dirty MAF. Car is now 270k Miles.
E53 bmw x5 Is an absolute gem. U must maintain it and it will run forever. Just DO THE WORK YOURSELF. I've done everything from cylinder head to spark plugs. It's easy to work on! Oil pan is maybe the hardest of any car in the world, but the rest is cake. Don't take it to the dealership for repairs, or you'll go broke. Just take it to the dealer for an oil change and check up. They will tell u what to fix. Fix it on your own. And rebuild axles don't replace!
One thing to note would be the "acceptable" range for the fuel trim. +/-2% is far too low. A perfect fuel trim will end up being around +4 to +5%, due to the E10 fuel used in the US, and more recently in the UK. E10 has a stochiometric ratio of 14.04, and pure gasoline 14.7. The total fuel trim required to combust E10 stoichiometrically is then (14.7/14.04) - 1 = 4.7%.
Hey. Superb video. I have strange problem with short fuel trims. My engine is BMW M54B30. On bank 1 i got +25-28%, but on bank 2 it is ok 0 to 5%. I know that my oxygen sensor after cat on bank1 is dead. Is this can affect on fuel trims? MAF is working, I checked rubber hoses and there is no cracks. Help please. Thanks.
@kowal116 - Unfortunately it is impossible to diagnose a car through the internet. The best I can say is to get the downstream O2 replaced and work from there. If you can't get reliable O2 data, then it makes it much harder to figure out where the problem is coming from. Sorry I can't be more help.
One-bank-only strongly suggests the heated O2 sensors. I would replace both of the top (pre cat) sensors and go from there; the post-cat sensors do not affect mixture.
@@JMUDoc Wrong, starting in 1999 on the M52TUB engines that changed, the cat sensors do have the ability to trim the fuel. Cat O2 sensors are a wear item, change them at 100,000 miles, same as the pre-cat o2 sensors
I have no check engine light, my secondary air injection system doesn't want to complete cycle, I don't take the car out much, it's mainly garaged now and drive other vehicles.
I have both thoses codes plus misfire all cylinders and now engine wont start or if it does it dies right away. I did not see any vacuum leaks. Thoughts?
@Chris Avina - Hmmm interesting. It’s impossible to give much more than a best guess from here, my best guess is either 1) a bad MAF which is giving the DME incorrect airflow information or 2) a fuel supply problem (e.g. clogged filter, failed pressure regulator, fuel pump). As I said, that’s the best I can do from here, so hope that helps. Good luck with your repair/diagnosis!
got the same codes on my 05 525i e60. I was stumped but this video is really informative! imma check for a vacuum leak, but im really thinking that its the disa valve
Be mindful that the E60 has the N52 engine not the M54. The same principals apply but the details will be different. My videos about my Z4 maybe be helpful although they aren’t specifically looking at these codes. Good luck in your repairs!
Is it old? Is it high mileage? Pull the manifold Replace the crank sensor OEM ONLY Replace the ENTIRE CCV system Replace ALL the dipstick tube O-rings, upper on the stick itself and lower in the oil pan Replace the vacuum hoses and intake boot Repair the DISA New TB seal New Manifold gaskets New IAT sensor Oring Check for valve cover leaks they = vacuum leaks too, bad gasket, cracked cover Replace VANOS assembly DR. Vanos or Besian systems Replace the fuel filter/regulator Test fuel pressure Replace 02 sensors up and down stream Replace air filter Clean MAF Clean out manifold good before reassembly Replace spark plugs Replace coils Change oil and filter Clear adaptive factors from the DME Update DME programming Should run fantastic 🎉
Whats up with the M56 valve cover? Is the CCV connected here? On m54 DISA o-ring, German Auto Solutions has the correct o-ring, and offered in three different materials.
I converted this engine to have the M56 valve cover because I was sick of replacing cracked plastic. I’m glad to see someone offering an o-ring for this. Hopefully the price is as reasonable as off the shelf o-rings.
What about code P0172? Has anyone gotten that? I changed my 15(!!!) year old fuel filter recently and then a week or so later that code came up. So far I've: •Inspected my MAF (seemed a little loose so I tightened it) & cleaned it • Checked for strong vacuum on the gas cap to check if it's the VCG or CCV's (can't remember which) diaphragm that's gone bad and is allowing air. That's also fine. Any ideas?
Check the spark plugs to see if it is actually running rich or misfiring. If it looks like you have good combustion, then it’s a problem with a sensor. If it looks like one or more cylinders are running rich, the the problem is more mechanical. Good luck!
Were you removed the faults p0171 and p0174 by changing the DISA valve gasket? I have a m54 b25 and they give me those two errors. When closing the butterfly of the valve and applying vacuum with the finger it opens a little I do not know if it should stay closed. I have ordered another whole valve .. and also the hoses of the ccv. Happy mixture poobre ... thank you very much man.
"When closing the butterfly of the valve and applying vacuum with the finger it opens a little I do not know if it should stay closed." It can open slightly - up to one quarter of the way.
Thanks for this. Super helpful. Regarding that green o-ring: I wonder if it's the same as the one that fits the coolant temperature sensor (a.k.a. auxiliary fan switch), 13621433077S? In any case, I think you don't want to be replacing a green o-ring with a black one. Or so I have been told. The green ones are resistant to coolant.
@wheatonna - Thank you! It is quite possible that they are the same PN, most companies like to keep the BOM as low as possible. I'd have to do some digging to find out for sure though. If you find an answer, definitely let everyone know! To the best of my knowledge, you are correct that it is best practice to keep the color of each o-ring the same for the sake of chemical resistance and keeping the materials the same. However, buna-n o-rings are resistant to just about everything in an engine bay and the o-rings on the cap of the expansion chamber are all black so I will take my chances and report back if I incur any premature failures.
I don’t have any experience with that engine. I believe it’s a four cylinder..? BMW’s inline six engines are by far their most reliable, the other engines are less so. I recommend researching what kind of oil control ring the pistons have. If it is the one piece design, it will likely burn oil if the engine has a lot of hours on it. Good luck!
@@MegredyPhotoStudio i got one, its probably very lazy and firsty in the e60 one time i did the pilot o2 mod on it and it stopped consuming oil almost entirely, with a new ccv before that it was using quite a bit of oil, changed the ccv, did a lot of high rpm highway driving in that time and then it was leaking eventually i think. i think it also blows a lot of oil water fog in the engine at high rpm and right now im back at high oil usage and the intake manifold is unusually wet and oily, it might be that it froze up since it was so cold recently i think your best bet at that thing is to fill up your oil very carefully exactly to the max scale, reset your trip counter and then see how much it misses if its 1/l per 1000km or less, just refill the oil
Excellent video @Casey Schmidt similar situation with my DSI as the oRing needs to be replaced for my e46. My DSI unit is in similar shape as yours. Question, I tried to go to the site that shared on your video to buy those orings but it seems that you need a membership. Any other place to find these on the internet? Could you share the part number?
@ruben - Thank you! McMaster only services the US so if you’re not from here then you unfortunately don’t have access to them. Yes, you do need to make an account with them but I think it’s well-worth having one because their processing/shipping is super fast and they have a wide variety of things available. If you want to source your parts elsewhere, you can simply do a search for the sizes you want in any search engine and find your preferred supplier, I don’t have any other specific suggestions.
My disa valve was missing a bolt and I am looking to replace them. Cannot identify or looking for advice on replacing bolts that hold the disa valve housing to motor
Those codes correspond with lean condition. Check the entire intake system first, it's free and doesn't take very long. If you don't see an issue there, check your fuel trims. Diagnosing problems with fuel trims is the best way to go.
hey @caseyschmidt Im on getting 1 code on the car P0174. Im NOT getting P0171 code. I did see that one of my 02 sensor on the engine for bank 2 was loose. I tighten it down more but not as strong as it might need. Should i replace it? What other factors with just that one code. Thats all im getting 1 code. Thanks man!
@Collin James - It wouldn’t hurt to replace the sensor but it would be good to confirm that it’s the issue before you do. You can swap the two O2 sensors and see if the lean code follows. Another way to get a lean code on one back would be lack of fuel, there could be a fuel injector not working properly. Injectors rarely fail so it’s more likely that it would be clogged slightly. Good luck!
It’s worth looking at for sure but it may be a symptom and not the problem. I’ve heard that O2 sensors should be a preventative maintenance item on these engines so that’s also something to consider.
@@dRew-something I’m not familiar with that kit so I can’t say why they’d not have you remove the old seal. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. I’ve just never replaced an oring and not removed the old one, know what I mean?
@@Casey_Schmidt I put the unit back on my engine with small bracket off to see if the lever operates..it stays open at low revs and seems to shut at high? No fault codes
Great video and I don’t even have an M54 engine. But I’m dealing with the same issue codes on my N52 engine. 2007 BMW 530 I. I still haven’t solved it but I’m just at top of the list. So thank you!
Thanks! The fortunate thing for you is that the N52 has a far more simple intake system so finding leaks is generally a lot easier. But the N52 is more complicated overall so it kind of balances out.
You git the wrong valve cover, thats why the KGE pipeline doesnt fit to the VC. And that causes your engine light. Also your KGE is shot because you have a lot of sludge in your system. Aaand you may drive many times short term. thats why the sludge is a mixture of water and oil.
The only causes of the water-oil mix is the case of my car are cold temperatures and short drives; both are unavoidable for me. The valve cover is from an M56 engine and is compatible with the M54 with only slight modification, it’s a popular mod for people who hate replacing cracked plastic valve covers.
@Sharath Macha - Unfortunately, there really isn't much I can do from here. The P0171/0174 codes are two of the most common codes and can come from any number of areas in the engine. The best thing to do is go through ever hose, gasket, and seal in the intake system to make sure that there aren't any cracks/damage. Getting some form of scan tool that can show fuel trims is the best way to determine what kind of problem is causing the code. I highly recommend studying a video from "50sKid" called "BMW 330i 325i E46 Using Fuel Trims To Diagnose Engine Problems P0171 P0174". He goes through every condition that can cause those codes. Combining a thorough inspection of the intake system and a look at the fuel trims will get you pretty close to the source of the issue. Here's 50sKid's video: ua-cam.com/video/4CcwtaIe5c4/v-deo.html
Hey Guys have an issue with my 2004 BMW 325CI had a misfire on a couple of cylinders come to find out an old mechanic had 4 NGK spark plugs with 2 DENZO, I replaced the Coils And Spark Plugs, and still had a slight misfire After checking with an OBD Scanner it showed my MAF was going bad so i replace the MAF and reset the codes after my trip it came on again and gave me P0171 and P0174 and still has a slight change in the RPMs, My Next Step was to smoke the system to see if there's leaks or just buying the DISA at FCP Euro Any Recommendations ?
@Steven Ortiz - If you have no vacuum leaks and you’re still getting the code, investigate the fuel supply system and the EGR valve on the exhaust side of the wine (if you’re engine is fitted with one).
Just looked up the code definition, looks like standard BMW stuff. Check your fuel trims, check for vacuum leaks, check for faulty wiring, and verify that your O2 sensors are reading accurately. Good Luck!
For those of you who have done everything known to man to fix these codes on your car, like myself. Just get the car tuned and get someone who knows what they're doing to tune it. I have done everything possible over the last 6 months. In the end the only thing that fixed it was a custom tune.
@@Oneklickmedia a tuner might be able to adjust your fuel and air mixture on the ECU fixing these codes as well as others. Another thing you can do is in the back of the intake manifold (driver side) there are old vacuums plugs that go bad. Try replacing those first before spending money on a tune
@@Casey_Schmidt the codes. My e46 would start but will idle for a bit then dies. I have 8 codes referring to 02sensor. I checked and wiring are ok i might have to pull the sensor out and see what is going on.
@@tengzturiagaiii3185 I had an O2 sensor failure a month or so ago so that’s definitely a possibility. You can check your fuel trims to help confirm that without spending the money for the part.
@@Casey_Schmidt it was weird. So i messed with it last week. Found that a couple of the white wires in from the 02harness was chewed open. I taped it with electrical tape. Then unpluged and plug it back. Then it ran for a couple of days like normal. Then the third day. It did it again. Turned my eml light then all 8 codes was back still 02 codes. Like inwas on the road. Inwas able to make it home by slightly putting my foot on the gas. Becuase ifni gas it up it feep like it would drawn and die.
@@Casey_Schmidt my disa was dead, is wasnt moving when i switch on the car, now i put an aftermarket disa with new oring, and it works!!!! U think it was causing lean codes? I was like 2 years with disa dead....not broken just dead no moving...
@@NakaiSan. - It really is impossible for me to say from here what the problem for you was simply because there are so many places for vacuum leaks to occur. But it sounds like DISA was your problem based on what you're saying. DISA is nice when it works but it does become a failure point after a while.
![BMW E46 DISA VALVE - The WHAT, the HOW, and the WHY it WORKS & FAILS [2021]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7oJmcCoLG7M/mqdefault.jpg)
![BMW E46 DISA VALVE - The WHAT, the HOW, and the WHY it WORKS & FAILS [2021]](/img/tr.png)
Watching your entire clip reminds me of one of my favorite instructor teaching automotive technology class at the community college . Very professional.
Thank you!
Had both p0171 and p0174 very long start and rough under load. Had fuel trims at 20% plus. Looked for vacuum leaks, checked maf censor, checked fuel relay for resistance, checked power to fuel pump checked all fuel injectors. Tested fuel pressure it was at 30psi!
Replaced fuel pump oem BMW. Still at 30psi replaced fuel reg. Fuel pressure now at 70psi.
Thank God!
What fuel filter an regulator did you go with
What yr make model
I think this video is the best about m54 lean codes. Hope the algorythm of youtube recomend that! Ty for your job, i appreciate it.
Fixed my CCV vacuum leak at 150k and and got p171 and p1734 twice since the leak fix. Over the last 100k Both times was clogged air filter and dirty MAF.
Car is now 270k Miles.
That’s the tough part about diagnosing these two codes, there are so many different things that can cause it.
I'm pushing 241k on my 01 wagon I might need to try these 2 things as I also recently replaced entire ccv boots and maf less than year ago 🤔
E53 bmw x5 Is an absolute gem. U must maintain it and it will run forever. Just DO THE WORK YOURSELF. I've done everything from cylinder head to spark plugs. It's easy to work on! Oil pan is maybe the hardest of any car in the world, but the rest is cake. Don't take it to the dealership for repairs, or you'll go broke. Just take it to the dealer for an oil change and check up. They will tell u what to fix. Fix it on your own. And rebuild axles don't replace!
I have a 05 E53 manual transmission.. 200,000 mls.. work horse 🐎 👌
One thing to note would be the "acceptable" range for the fuel trim. +/-2% is far too low. A perfect fuel trim will end up being around +4 to +5%, due to the E10 fuel used in the US, and more recently in the UK. E10 has a stochiometric ratio of 14.04, and pure gasoline 14.7. The total fuel trim required to combust E10 stoichiometrically is then (14.7/14.04) - 1 = 4.7%.
So one shouldn't be running E10 in the m54 then 😅😅 if so could this be my issue for the codes
@@noneya96 No, you’ll need at least +/- 10% for a code to be set, if not higher.
Bet it was a lot more than the Disa O ring. Great rebuild kit available. ( not the ones from Amacon!)
Hey. Superb video. I have strange problem with short fuel trims. My engine is BMW M54B30. On bank 1 i got +25-28%, but on bank 2 it is ok 0 to 5%. I know that my oxygen sensor after cat on bank1 is dead. Is this can affect on fuel trims?
MAF is working, I checked rubber hoses and there is no cracks.
Help please. Thanks.
@kowal116 - Unfortunately it is impossible to diagnose a car through the internet. The best I can say is to get the downstream O2 replaced and work from there. If you can't get reliable O2 data, then it makes it much harder to figure out where the problem is coming from. Sorry I can't be more help.
One-bank-only strongly suggests the heated O2 sensors.
I would replace both of the top (pre cat) sensors and go from there; the post-cat sensors do not affect mixture.
@@JMUDoc Wrong, starting in 1999 on the M52TUB engines that changed, the cat sensors do have the ability to trim the fuel. Cat O2 sensors are a wear item, change them at 100,000 miles, same as the pre-cat o2 sensors
have you ever got to solve the problem with hihg fuel trims only on one bank?
@@MrBanebre yeah but I don't remember what it was 😅 for sure I changed all the rubber air hoses and MAF for VDO/Continental.
Extremely thorough great job.
I have no check engine light, my secondary air injection system doesn't want to complete cycle, I don't take the car out much, it's mainly garaged now and drive other vehicles.
I have both thoses codes plus misfire all cylinders and now engine wont start or if it does it dies right away. I did not see any vacuum leaks. Thoughts?
@Chris Avina - Hmmm interesting. It’s impossible to give much more than a best guess from here, my best guess is either 1) a bad MAF which is giving the DME incorrect airflow information or 2) a fuel supply problem (e.g. clogged filter, failed pressure regulator, fuel pump).
As I said, that’s the best I can do from here, so hope that helps. Good luck with your repair/diagnosis!
awesome explanation of the causes of these problems thank you!
got the same codes on my 05 525i e60. I was stumped but this video is really informative! imma check for a vacuum leak, but im really thinking that its the disa valve
Be mindful that the E60 has the N52 engine not the M54. The same principals apply but the details will be different. My videos about my Z4 maybe be helpful although they aren’t specifically looking at these codes. Good luck in your repairs!
My e60 come with m54 engine. M54B25
Is it old?
Is it high mileage?
Pull the manifold
Replace the crank sensor OEM ONLY
Replace the ENTIRE CCV system
Replace ALL the dipstick tube O-rings, upper on the stick itself and lower in the oil pan
Replace the vacuum hoses and intake boot
Repair the DISA
New TB seal
New Manifold gaskets
New IAT sensor Oring
Check for valve cover leaks they = vacuum leaks too, bad gasket, cracked cover
Replace VANOS assembly DR. Vanos or Besian systems
Replace the fuel filter/regulator
Test fuel pressure
Replace 02 sensors up and down stream
Replace air filter
Clean MAF
Clean out manifold good before reassembly
Replace spark plugs
Replace coils
Change oil and filter
Clear adaptive factors from the DME
Update DME programming
Should run fantastic 🎉
Whats up with the M56 valve cover? Is the CCV connected here?
On m54 DISA o-ring, German Auto Solutions has the correct o-ring, and offered in three different materials.
I converted this engine to have the M56 valve cover because I was sick of replacing cracked plastic. I’m glad to see someone offering an o-ring for this. Hopefully the price is as reasonable as off the shelf o-rings.
11:44 im thinking of buying the GAS CCV for 500 bucks, since the oem ccv never really works and fucks everything up all the time
What about code P0172? Has anyone gotten that? I changed my 15(!!!) year old fuel filter recently and then a week or so later that code came up. So far I've:
•Inspected my MAF (seemed a little loose so I tightened it) & cleaned it
• Checked for strong vacuum on the gas cap to check if it's the VCG or CCV's (can't remember which) diaphragm that's gone bad and is allowing air. That's also fine.
Any ideas?
Check the spark plugs to see if it is actually running rich or misfiring. If it looks like you have good combustion, then it’s a problem with a sensor. If it looks like one or more cylinders are running rich, the the problem is more mechanical. Good luck!
Were you removed the faults p0171 and p0174 by changing the DISA valve gasket? I have a m54 b25 and they give me those two errors. When closing the butterfly of the valve and applying vacuum with the finger it opens a little I do not know if it should stay closed. I have ordered another whole valve .. and also the hoses of the ccv. Happy mixture poobre ... thank you very much man.
"When closing the butterfly of the valve and applying vacuum with the finger it opens a little I do not know if it should stay closed."
It can open slightly - up to one quarter of the way.
Thanks for this. Super helpful. Regarding that green o-ring: I wonder if it's the same as the one that fits the coolant temperature sensor (a.k.a. auxiliary fan switch), 13621433077S? In any case, I think you don't want to be replacing a green o-ring with a black one. Or so I have been told. The green ones are resistant to coolant.
@wheatonna - Thank you! It is quite possible that they are the same PN, most companies like to keep the BOM as low as possible. I'd have to do some digging to find out for sure though. If you find an answer, definitely let everyone know!
To the best of my knowledge, you are correct that it is best practice to keep the color of each o-ring the same for the sake of chemical resistance and keeping the materials the same. However, buna-n o-rings are resistant to just about everything in an engine bay and the o-rings on the cap of the expansion chamber are all black so I will take my chances and report back if I incur any premature failures.
Hi ! I just bought an old E60 with the m54b22 engine. I heard that this one is thirsty for oil. What can i expect ?
I don’t have any experience with that engine. I believe it’s a four cylinder..? BMW’s inline six engines are by far their most reliable, the other engines are less so. I recommend researching what kind of oil control ring the pistons have. If it is the one piece design, it will likely burn oil if the engine has a lot of hours on it. Good luck!
@@Casey_Schmidt thanks. It's a 6 cylinder petrol. 2.2L . I guess i will see how it goes, soon enough 🤣
@@MegredyPhotoStudio i got one, its probably very lazy and firsty in the e60
one time i did the pilot o2 mod on it and it stopped consuming oil almost entirely, with a new ccv
before that it was using quite a bit of oil, changed the ccv, did a lot of high rpm highway driving in that time and then it was leaking eventually i think.
i think it also blows a lot of oil water fog in the engine at high rpm
and right now im back at high oil usage and the intake manifold is unusually wet and oily, it might be that it froze up since it was so cold recently
i think your best bet at that thing is to fill up your oil very carefully exactly to the max scale, reset your trip counter and then see how much it misses
if its 1/l per 1000km or less, just refill the oil
Excellent video @Casey Schmidt similar situation with my DSI as the oRing needs to be replaced for my e46. My DSI unit is in similar shape as yours. Question, I tried to go to the site that shared on your video to buy those orings but it seems that you need a membership. Any other place to find these on the internet? Could you share the part number?
@ruben - Thank you! McMaster only services the US so if you’re not from here then you unfortunately don’t have access to them. Yes, you do need to make an account with them but I think it’s well-worth having one because their processing/shipping is super fast and they have a wide variety of things available.
If you want to source your parts elsewhere, you can simply do a search for the sizes you want in any search engine and find your preferred supplier, I don’t have any other specific suggestions.
My disa valve was missing a bolt and I am looking to replace them. Cannot identify or looking for advice on replacing bolts that hold the disa valve housing to motor
Check RealOEM.com. That site has the parts breakdown for every part on the car. You should fine what your looking for there.
Hi, good video very helpful thanks
I have 2882 and 2883 codes what could be the issue? No bouncing idle, no black smoke 330ci
Those codes correspond with lean condition. Check the entire intake system first, it's free and doesn't take very long. If you don't see an issue there, check your fuel trims. Diagnosing problems with fuel trims is the best way to go.
hey @caseyschmidt Im on getting 1 code on the car P0174. Im NOT getting P0171 code. I did see that one of my 02 sensor on the engine for bank 2 was loose. I tighten it down more but not as strong as it might need. Should i replace it? What other factors with just that one code. Thats all im getting 1 code. Thanks man!
@Collin James - It wouldn’t hurt to replace the sensor but it would be good to confirm that it’s the issue before you do. You can swap the two O2 sensors and see if the lean code follows. Another way to get a lean code on one back would be lack of fuel, there could be a fuel injector not working properly. Injectors rarely fail so it’s more likely that it would be clogged slightly. Good luck!
I just received these codes on my 325i, it said bank 1 sensor 1 should I be looking at my o2 sensor also?
It’s worth looking at for sure but it may be a symptom and not the problem. I’ve heard that O2 sensors should be a preventative maintenance item on these engines so that’s also something to consider.
Great video,i used the x8r kit, they told me to not scrape out old o ring and just push the one they supply all the way down?
@@dRew-something I’m not familiar with that kit so I can’t say why they’d not have you remove the old seal. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. I’ve just never replaced an oring and not removed the old one, know what I mean?
@@Casey_Schmidt I put the unit back on my engine with small bracket off to see if the lever operates..it stays open at low revs and seems to shut at high? No fault codes
Great video and I don’t even have an M54 engine. But I’m dealing with the same issue codes on my N52 engine. 2007 BMW 530 I. I still haven’t solved it but I’m just at top of the list. So thank you!
Thanks! The fortunate thing for you is that the N52 has a far more simple intake system so finding leaks is generally a lot easier. But the N52 is more complicated overall so it kind of balances out.
Same codes on my 02 330i, same o-ring?
If it’s an M54, it should be.
is this valve on a 2008 BMW 328i E90?? N52 engine..please respond thanks
@gail - Nope. This is an M54, you have the N52.
OMG !!! i've fix the DISA with a kit but no proper o-ring and i hear a hiss .... and i got P0171
You git the wrong valve cover, thats why the KGE pipeline doesnt fit to the VC. And that causes your engine light.
Also your KGE is shot because you have a lot of sludge in your system. Aaand you may drive many times short term. thats why the sludge is a mixture of water and oil.
The only causes of the water-oil mix is the case of my car are cold temperatures and short drives; both are unavoidable for me. The valve cover is from an M56 engine and is compatible with the M54 with only slight modification, it’s a popular mod for people who hate replacing cracked plastic valve covers.
I have same codes, can you please help me how to diagnose this issue
@Sharath Macha - Unfortunately, there really isn't much I can do from here. The P0171/0174 codes are two of the most common codes and can come from any number of areas in the engine. The best thing to do is go through ever hose, gasket, and seal in the intake system to make sure that there aren't any cracks/damage. Getting some form of scan tool that can show fuel trims is the best way to determine what kind of problem is causing the code. I highly recommend studying a video from "50sKid" called "BMW 330i 325i E46 Using Fuel Trims To Diagnose Engine Problems P0171 P0174". He goes through every condition that can cause those codes. Combining a thorough inspection of the intake system and a look at the fuel trims will get you pretty close to the source of the issue. Here's 50sKid's video: ua-cam.com/video/4CcwtaIe5c4/v-deo.html
You can't diagnose a code from distance and without a smoking machine, then its just guessing.
First check the upper and lower intake boots for cracks and splits - those are VERY common points of failure on these engines.
I had them, and now they all gone. Check out new vlog later. Where caused by more resons
Hey Guys have an issue with my 2004 BMW 325CI had a misfire on a couple of cylinders come to find out an old mechanic had 4 NGK spark plugs with 2 DENZO, I replaced the Coils And Spark Plugs, and still had a slight misfire After checking with an OBD Scanner it showed my MAF was going bad so i replace the MAF and reset the codes after my trip it came on again and gave me P0171 and P0174 and still has a slight change in the RPMs, My Next Step was to smoke the system to see if there's leaks or just buying the DISA at FCP Euro Any Recommendations ?
@Steven Ortiz - If you have no vacuum leaks and you’re still getting the code, investigate the fuel supply system and the EGR valve on the exhaust side of the wine (if you’re engine is fitted with one).
I have a p1093 any suggestions.
Thank you
Just looked up the code definition, looks like standard BMW stuff. Check your fuel trims, check for vacuum leaks, check for faulty wiring, and verify that your O2 sensors are reading accurately. Good Luck!
@@Casey_Schmidt thanks for the info
Great video
My disa valve goes in and out fairly easy. Does that mean the o ring is starting to go bad?
It could possibly be a failed diaphragm.
8:54 do you know what the plastic screw is for? it sits lose
The junction box has several places were wire bundles can enter/exit. It is simply a plug for an unused port on the junction box.
For those of you who have done everything known to man to fix these codes on your car, like myself. Just get the car tuned and get someone who knows what they're doing to tune it.
I have done everything possible over the last 6 months. In the end the only thing that fixed it was a custom tune.
im getting ready to do my CCV since it show a leak on one of the hose but i am curious what you mean by tune>?! Update firmware ECU? Spark plugs?
@@Oneklickmedia a tuner might be able to adjust your fuel and air mixture on the ECU fixing these codes as well as others.
Another thing you can do is in the back of the intake manifold (driver side) there are old vacuums plugs that go bad. Try replacing those first before spending money on a tune
@2Spookeh4Me very good. I highly recommend changing all of the rubber lines if no obvious leaks or cracks are found.
You are wicked smaat!
Great and informative video, would you be willing to sell me an o-ring for my disa valve given you have over 10 of them. Please let me know thanks
Yellow mayo means you drive to much short rides... What ever ride you make sure you heat up the engine... Cold engine rides give mayo
That is correct. Especially with these engines, it’s important to boil off the moisture in the oil regularly to avoid excuses moisture buildup.
What caused that tho?
Which part specifically are you referring to?
@@Casey_Schmidt the codes. My e46 would start but will idle for a bit then dies. I have 8 codes referring to 02sensor. I checked and wiring are ok i might have to pull the sensor out and see what is going on.
@@tengzturiagaiii3185 I had an O2 sensor failure a month or so ago so that’s definitely a possibility. You can check your fuel trims to help confirm that without spending the money for the part.
@@Casey_Schmidt it was weird. So i messed with it last week. Found that a couple of the white wires in from the 02harness was chewed open. I taped it with electrical tape. Then unpluged and plug it back. Then it ran for a couple of days like normal. Then the third day. It did it again. Turned my eml light then all 8 codes was back still 02 codes. Like inwas on the road. Inwas able to make it home by slightly putting my foot on the gas. Becuase ifni gas it up it feep like it would drawn and die.
niceeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
SO IT WAS DISA?
@Nakai San - In this particular case, yes.
@@Casey_Schmidt my disa was dead, is wasnt moving when i switch on the car, now i put an aftermarket disa with new oring, and it works!!!! U think it was causing lean codes? I was like 2 years with disa dead....not broken just dead no moving...
@@NakaiSan. - It really is impossible for me to say from here what the problem for you was simply because there are so many places for vacuum leaks to occur. But it sounds like DISA was your problem based on what you're saying. DISA is nice when it works but it does become a failure point after a while.
Disa
Does not help the fact dissa valves fill up with oil
That is not so much a problem in itself. That is a symptom of a problem somewhere else that allows that much oil to collect in the manifold.
M54 supersedes the M52
My % is 27.3
its not a perfect fit dude..
Isnt that the m56 valve cover?
@@skinprison you’d be correct. I swapped it over from the plastic one. It worked out exceptionally well for me.
@@Casey_Schmidt Nice! But you left the original ccv still hooked up?
@ yes with a short piece of hose to connect them. It worked just fine for me; although it’s not a visually elegant solution.