I just opened up mine and saw some socks down there too. But, nothing blocking the motor. I was able to get the system to spin and drain, but now it will not go back to agitator mode after filling up with water. I'm guessing something must have got messed up like your showing. I'm going to have someone service it soon. Can't live without this washer!! Thanks for this video. I'm hoping its nothing major to replace the whole thing.
Great Video! You saved me $1,300 by not having to buy another washer/Dryer stacked! In my case a bunch of socks made their way down there somehow and one of the socks was stuck on the wheel shaft. Thanks
Great video. How can I have separate power cords for the washer and dryer? Currently my GE stackable washer and dryer combo had only one cord. However I understand the washer and dryer have separate circuits so in theory is it possible to separate the power input such that the washer and dryer each has it own separate power cord? Thanks.
My mode shifter lever (please forgive if I say a part wrong, Ive been looking them up as I go) just keeps going up and down, moving the clutch up, then back down into the transmission pulley. The clutch looks like it full engages but then the lever pulls it up again. It does this continuously until the cycle just shuts off. There’s no agitation or spinning. Just a forever spinning mode shifter lifting its crazy lever. I’ve tried multiple searches but I don’t see what’s causing this. Is it the mode shifter that needs replaced or some computer problem.
That’s called the shifter: here’s a link: www.amazon.com/Genuine-Washer-Shifter-WH03X30517-description/dp/B09HNW28PF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=ORY297CTR0H4&keywords=ge+washer+shifter+motor+gtw465asn0ww&qid=1690567902&sprefix=ge+washer+sfifter%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-3
Many thanks for this procedure. BTW I faced the very same problem : small piece of tissue around the motor axis broke the speed sensor's plastic holder. Maybe these GE engineers ought to think of some unexpensive mesh to prevent this very common issue from happening ? This been said I also encountered the totally jammed hex screw. Why is that a common issue ? This is not a 20 years rusted mechanism ! The sensor is already in a difficult location. I spent the half day accessing and figuring and now I realize I will probably have to unmount the whole motor. :-(
I had the exact same issue- a pillow case cover wrapped around my pulley, ripped off the belt (luckily belt didnt break) but it did damage the clips of the speed sensor. Once i pulled out the pillow case, put the belt back on, fire it up and noticed a loud clicking sound while agititating, thats when i realized the clips of the speed sensor were damaged and the transmission plastic sprocket was hitting it during agitation or spin. I flipped the washer on its back, took off the bottom plate and ordered a new sensor on GE Appliances for 20 bucks, replaced it and put it all back together. I did not have to take off the motor since i had it laying down on its back, just removed about 20 screws to remove bottom plate is all. And was able to access it like that. Hope this helps
Quick question: I have a unit that in service mode tries to spin, but doesn’t. You can hear it try the to lock lid like 4 times but fails. But other modes appear to lock lid successfully. How would you attack.
Hey there I'm back. Had GE Tech come out. They ordered a new tub assembly with transmission/motor/sensor/tub etc... They installed it yesterday and still have exact same problem. Put into spin test, you see actuator drop gears into place then just sits there with pump running then after they come together it just stops and light spin light blinks. So all along this might not have been a bad motor or speed sensor but something else but what other things can cause this? What else could this be? Board? Lid locks, you can't open it, light it on so it can't be that right (meaning even though it's locked and shows locked with red light is circuit not being completed)? They ordered a new board now. This is getting absurd. Just not sure why this is so hard to diagnose. GUD27ESSJIWW GE Unitized Spacemaker 3.2 DOE cu. ft. Washer and 5.9 cu. ft. Electric Dryer
@@FastFreeFixes Hey there. Sensor was fine. I actually just pulled the board and unscrewed it and the back of the board had a nickel size burn mark which mean that the board to the motor was fried. Honestly I suggest anyone that is competent to pull the board first and just look to see if there's any issues. Will save you time/money/sanity lol.
Hey there, have a blocked motor error code. Washer will fill but not agitate. Washer will drain also but not spin. Don't see anything blocking the motor. Tub spins freely. Put it in diagnostic mode, cleared codes, put it in spin diagnostic mode and can hear the lid lock and see the little orange thermo actuator with the push thing on it lower the clutch down that pushes the white/black teeth together then it stops and gives blocked motor error code. Had technician come out and they tested the lid lock and some other things and in the end couldn't solve the problem, thought basically the motor was bad or the sensor but didn't really know. They did say there was some oil around the tub transmission but that wouldn't have caused it to not spin/agitate just sooner or later get louder when it was spinning. I also went out and found a discarded similar unit (not exact same model) and pulled the motor and plugged it in and it didn't work also (maybe not same model/part # though not sure how sensitive these units are to the same motor/part) Just trying to figure out what I should be looking to do here to fix this since it's only 5 years old. Bad Motor? Bad Speed Sensor? Bad Washer Mode Shifter? Other? Thanks for any advice/help!
Thanks Wayne, Your model might use 220 volts . Might just need to reset the 2 breakers for your washer dryer. Might also be the washer lid switch is malfunctioning.
Hey , so mine can drain and the lid will lock regularly, it sounds like it’s a bout to start and everything is normal but then , I hear like a hard clicking noise and sounds like it’s trying to spin or like it just can’t like it’s not completely connected. But it will still start add water and the act like it’s regularly cleaning everything but the spinning
Update: Got the new speed sensor. Did not fix the problem. Still get the blocked motor error code (Spin light blinking, red lid lock lit up). Getting frustrated here. Could it just be a bad motor? Just don't want to order a motor and then it doesn't fix the issue and be stuck with a motor. GUD27ESSJ1WW
@eeFixes Let me try now. Nope motor does not run with belt off. In diagnostic 7 o'clock, the gears come down from the actuator and connect and then the drain pump keeps going. With the pulley on it would then after the gears connect it would run the drain a few more seconds then stop and give the blocked motor error.
Thank you!! Just had to do this, and it worked like a charm!
Thanks so much Nikia😊👍
Thank you!
You’re welcome 😊
I just opened up mine and saw some socks down there too. But, nothing blocking the motor. I was able to get the system to spin and drain, but now it will not go back to agitator mode after filling up with water. I'm guessing something must have got messed up like your showing. I'm going to have someone service it soon. Can't live without this washer!!
Thanks for this video. I'm hoping its nothing major to replace the whole thing.
Just need to replace a cheap part called the shifter.
Great Video! You saved me $1,300 by not having to buy another washer/Dryer stacked! In my case a bunch of socks made their way down there somehow and one of the socks was stuck on the wheel shaft. Thanks
Thank you so much for going through that video and helping me
You’re welcome😊😊
Awesome job Aramis 😊😊😊
Thanks a lot man, quick fix
Thanks Johnathan😊
Great video. How can I have separate power cords for the washer and dryer? Currently my GE stackable washer and dryer combo had only one cord. However I understand the washer and dryer have separate circuits so in theory is it possible to separate the power input such that the washer and dryer each has it own separate power cord? Thanks.
Good question.
That must be possible 👍
Right now 110Vac comes into the controller and then gets separated to either washer or dryer.
My mode shifter lever (please forgive if I say a part wrong, Ive been looking them up as I go) just keeps going up and down, moving the clutch up, then back down into the transmission pulley. The clutch looks like it full engages but then the lever pulls it up again. It does this continuously until the cycle just shuts off. There’s no agitation or spinning. Just a forever spinning mode shifter lifting its crazy lever.
I’ve tried multiple searches but I don’t see what’s causing this. Is it the mode shifter that needs replaced or some computer problem.
Can you send your model number and a picture of that to my email at: scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com
Outstanding instruction! Typically, with these units, are they fully serviceable without having to move them significantly?
Thanks Peter,
That’s right. You shouldn’t need to move them for most repairs👍
What is the little lever called that goes up and down to make it going to cycles?
That’s called the shifter: here’s a link: www.amazon.com/Genuine-Washer-Shifter-WH03X30517-description/dp/B09HNW28PF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=ORY297CTR0H4&keywords=ge+washer+shifter+motor+gtw465asn0ww&qid=1690567902&sprefix=ge+washer+sfifter%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-3
Many thanks for this procedure. BTW I faced the very same problem : small piece of tissue around the motor axis broke the speed sensor's plastic holder. Maybe these GE engineers ought to think of some unexpensive mesh to prevent this very common issue from happening ? This been said I also encountered the totally jammed hex screw. Why is that a common issue ? This is not a 20 years rusted mechanism ! The sensor is already in a difficult location. I spent the half day accessing and figuring and now I realize I will probably have to unmount the whole motor. :-(
You’re right Christian, it’s best to unmount the motor👍
I had the exact same issue- a pillow case cover wrapped around my pulley, ripped off the belt (luckily belt didnt break) but it did damage the clips of the speed sensor. Once i pulled out the pillow case, put the belt back on, fire it up and noticed a loud clicking sound while agititating, thats when i realized the clips of the speed sensor were damaged and the transmission plastic sprocket was hitting it during agitation or spin. I flipped the washer on its back, took off the bottom plate and ordered a new sensor on GE Appliances for 20 bucks, replaced it and put it all back together. I did not have to take off the motor since i had it laying down on its back, just removed about 20 screws to remove bottom plate is all. And was able to access it like that. Hope this helps
Quick question: I have a unit that in service mode tries to spin, but doesn’t. You can hear it try the to lock lid like 4 times but fails. But other modes appear to lock lid successfully. How would you attack.
I bet a new lid lock will fix it👍
Hey there I'm back. Had GE Tech come out. They ordered a new tub assembly with transmission/motor/sensor/tub etc... They installed it yesterday and still have exact same problem. Put into spin test, you see actuator drop gears into place then just sits there with pump running then after they come together it just stops and light spin light blinks.
So all along this might not have been a bad motor or speed sensor but something else but what other things can cause this?
What else could this be? Board? Lid locks, you can't open it, light it on so it can't be that right (meaning even though it's locked and shows locked with red light is circuit not being completed)?
They ordered a new board now. This is getting absurd. Just not sure why this is so hard to diagnose.
GUD27ESSJIWW
GE Unitized Spacemaker
3.2 DOE cu. ft. Washer and 5.9 cu. ft. Electric Dryer
Hi James,
It might be the lid sensor that lives next to the lid lock.
I’ve seen the wires going to it broken in two.
@@FastFreeFixes Hey there.
Sensor was fine. I actually just pulled the board and unscrewed it and the back of the board had a nickel size burn mark which mean that the board to the motor was fried. Honestly I suggest anyone that is competent to pull the board first and just look to see if there's any issues.
Will save you time/money/sanity lol.
Hey there, have a blocked motor error code. Washer will fill but not agitate. Washer will drain also but not spin.
Don't see anything blocking the motor. Tub spins freely.
Put it in diagnostic mode, cleared codes, put it in spin diagnostic mode and can hear the lid lock and see the little orange thermo actuator with the push thing on it lower the clutch down that pushes the white/black teeth together then it stops and gives blocked motor error code.
Had technician come out and they tested the lid lock and some other things and in the end couldn't solve the problem, thought basically the motor was bad or the sensor but didn't really know. They did say there was some oil around the tub transmission but that wouldn't have caused it to not spin/agitate just sooner or later get louder when it was spinning.
I also went out and found a discarded similar unit (not exact same model) and pulled the motor and plugged it in and it didn't work also (maybe not same model/part # though not sure how sensitive these units are to the same motor/part)
Just trying to figure out what I should be looking to do here to fix this since it's only 5 years old.
Bad Motor?
Bad Speed Sensor?
Bad Washer Mode Shifter?
Other?
Thanks for any advice/help!
That sounds like it needs a new speed sensor 👍
@@FastFreeFixes Does the link in your post for the sensor work for a GUD27ESSJ1WW
I have the same one in the video but the washer has no power but the dryer work just fine can you please help me out
Thanks Wayne,
Your model might use 220 volts .
Might just need to reset the 2 breakers for your washer dryer.
Might also be the washer lid switch is malfunctioning.
I ordered a motor cause it was humming, I'm nervous now.
Can you send a video of that to my email at: scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com
Hey , so mine can drain and the lid will lock regularly, it sounds like it’s a bout to start and everything is normal but then , I hear like a hard clicking noise and sounds like it’s trying to spin or like it just can’t like it’s not completely connected. But it will still start add water and the act like it’s regularly cleaning everything but the spinning
Can you send your model number?
Mine does the same asskytime extremme9851. Need help
I have the same issue?, how did you fix it.?
I have the same problem I get the on light and the spin light on. When I do the code test. So the speed sensor. Right?
Can you send that same question to my email at: scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com
@@FastFreeFixes hi I havening the spin light on and the lid lock on starts to spin then stops . Any idea s ? Thanks the lid lock works
i have a double stock washer and dryer after spinning still wet the clothes
I wonder if the belt fell off the pulley?
Update: Got the new speed sensor.
Did not fix the problem.
Still get the blocked motor error code (Spin light blinking, red lid lock lit up). Getting frustrated here. Could it just be a bad motor? Just don't want to order a motor and then it doesn't fix the issue and be stuck with a motor.
GUD27ESSJ1WW
Can you slip the belt off of the pulley and run the washer to see if the motor will spin?
@eeFixes Let me try now. Nope motor does not run with belt off. In diagnostic 7 o'clock, the gears come down from the actuator and connect and then the drain pump keeps going. With the pulley on it would then after the gears connect it would run the drain a few more seconds then stop and give the blocked motor error.
I changed the pump drain and lid switch. And now I think I replace the wrong thing 😭
I think you just need to replace the lid lock sensor which is the thing right next to the lid lock.