I bought this washer and it won't spin or drain. Although I jacked w it today and it drained, weird. It acted like it worked hard, just won't spin 🥴🙄😭😭
TIP TO PUT NEW BELT ON. This video helped a lot. My belt was broken. The new belt was stiff and difficult to put on right out of the bag. So I took a hair dyer and warmed the belt up and it became more pliable and slipped right on.
Thank you so much for your videos !! My husband and I were able to fix our machine together He’s a paraplegic and so him trying to fit in our laundry room and do the things he would’ve been able to do before prove to be very challenging but I showed him this video and together we were able to dump the washer over and fix the belt. Thank you!!
Thank you so much! you saved me from buying a new machine. My model is not this one. I called a repair guy, he came the first time and said it was a clogged hose, after two washes the problem started again. The second time he said the problem would be the switch and it would be better buy a new machine because that brand they weren't even repairing it anymore. Before buy a new one I saw your video. It was more expensive to pay his visit than to buy the part and fix it.
My GE washer was not spinning to full speed - only half speed. I suspected that the timer wasn't switching the motor to full speed but didn't want to risk $300 cost of a timer vs a new machine costing $700. As a final try before I put the machine on the curb, I hit the timer about 5 or 6 times with a steel socket (not to break it but shake it a bit). I put the machine in spin mode, started, and voila! The machine was spinning high speed again! Thanks for these videos. They help us think critically through these problems!
You just saved me $400 on a new washer! Tipped it over and removed the cover and the belt was popped off. Popped it back on and tightened the loose pulley (probably the reason the belt came off in the first place)and good as new!! Thanks Man
This video saved me hundreds of dollars. My issue was the $30 lid switch, which I was told by someone who has worked on these for years couldn’t be the problem, so thank you for this video!
great video! It took me longer to clear a path and un-hook the washer than it did to find that the belt slipped off after my son over-loaded washer too many times....thank you so much!!
Great video, luckily my belt slipped and I was able to put it back on. It's working like a dream again. This is the first video that broke everything down and helped me get straight to it.
Great video. Had the same problem. Saved me a lot of troubleshooting because getting to the belt is so easy and it is so likely to fail that it was the first thing I wanted to check!
I fixed the same model GE washer three times just from this video. Two times were resetting the code this time I think it's the belt. My husband bought me a speed Queen for Christmas so I'm not anticipating any repairs knock on dryer Lint.... This has me thinking about slapping on a new belt and throwing it on marketplace and getting my money's worth from it. 5 years old over $500
Thanks for the video! I just fixed a neighbors GE washer with the same problem, a shredded drive belt, though not nearly as bad as yours, but enough to get me to check it and sure enough, it was in 2 pieces!! Thanks for the tip!!
Thank you for the helpful video and tips! I too have this GE washer and the same issues described by SaltyKayak. In the past, when the machine was new if it became unbalanced it would add a little water, agitate and attempt to rebalance the load itself. The spin cycle would wring most of the water out and it was great. Now when a load becomes unbalanced during the spin cycle the machine attempts to add water and rebalance, but it does not rebalance or complete a spin cycle. The water drains from the drum, but the clothes are sopping wet due to the lack of centrifugal force squeezing the water out. I have checked all the usual suspects for drainage problems (hose clogs, pump not working, etc.) and electronic spin cycle signals (like the ones listed in your video); they were all working properly. When I moved the washer to start taking it apart, there was a small pile of rubber-like shavings under the machine. A larger amount of the black rubber shavings were piled inside the wheel/transmission cover like an old pencil sharpener. I checked the belt and it seems to be in fair condition. It isn't frayed or worn unevenly. It did seem to have some sections where the black shavings had been caught in the belt grooves and the friction caused them to fuse to the belt- unless the shavings are from the belt. Is there another part that could be wearing and leaving the shavings under the machine?
That is a bit strange. Perhaps inspect the groves on the motor pully to see if they are damaged and eating away at the belt. Maybe swap to a new belt and see if the symptoms go way (I think a new one is only like $20).
@@daxlance6492 This is the exact issue I'm dealing with. I'll crack it open, wonder if mine has the same "shavings." If you figure it out I'd appreciate an update
Did you ever find a solution? Mine is doing the same thing. I have ran 2 loads on normal and 3 drain & spin cycles to no avail! Its draining fine but isnt spinning. I finally pulled out 3 pair of jeans now anything is barely in the washer. Hoping it will be the trick but this happens atleast once a week and i shouldnt have to remove clothes to get it to spin out. Im not over-loading, either!
Ok so the new drive belt just came, we ordered the correct belt but it seems a touch small, other videos say to use zip ties to stretch it? Or to heat it up? What do you do?
Great upload thanks. Really useful tips and tricks that hopefully saves people a lot of time and headaches. Perhaps worth mentioning to those not that familiar with Capacitors is that a multimeter tests Farads and that the results can be misleading. A capacitor showing the correct Farad reading can still be non functioning if its ESR is out. To fully test a capacitor you need an ESR meter, but I understand that's not a normal piece of kit owned by most. If in doubt it's often worth just trying a new capacitor, and if its not needed, well then-you've got a spare. If you test capacitors or enjoy electronics repair, a decent ESR meter sets you back about 50 USD and also has some other useful functions and to a degree allows you to test components on a circuit board.
Great video. Have that "not spinning" problem right now. Will run through the tests and use your guidance to see if I can sort it out. On a previous repair effort of this same washer I found a part of a zip tie about 1.5 inches long that had slipped through the holes in the drum and lodged vertically in the motor volute. That stopped the impeller from turning and it would not drain. Took out the zip tie piece and it worked great until this latest challenge.
Thank you for this video. If it was for my wife, she would’ve got a new washer lol. I do want to suggest getting the OEM part, as the amazon chinese belt was slightly smaller than what I needed.
Thank you for this video. It has encouraged me to diagnose and fix our similar GE washer. I’m asking you DuctTape Mechanic, or anyone else for help. The question is: 1. What exactly is malfunctioning? 2. How to fix it. Here are the symptoms. It stops dead at the rinse cycle. If I manually drain the water into the lower floor drain, everything starts working. But then at drain and spin is stops again. Once again I manually drain it and the spin starts working. It made me suspect the pump, but Lo and behold, in one test the pump worked and all was good. (Intermittent electrical problem?) SO!? It’s either the pump, or motor, or a sensor. The spin works fine so it’s not the motor. The pump is not working, but did fine at least once. My bet is that a sensor that talks to the computer that controls the pump is intermittently malfunctioning, but I have no idea what to do once you take the back cover off. Any ideas or suggestions is greatly appreciated, and thank you for your videos.
@@EasedBluntman NO. The pump works well and strong - when it works. The problem is intermittent. When the drain and spin does not work we lower the drain spout to the floor drain and let gravity drain it. When the sensors see the water draining the spin kicks in and works. First load always seems to work fine. Subsequent loads require the gravity drain to make the spin work. I don’t know what the real problem is or the solution. I know the pump works well and strong. I suspect something electrical and electronic (sensor) is not working. I don’t have the tools, skill, or experience to diagnose it any further. All I can say is try the gravity drain and see if your spin kicks in.
You would be surprised how many washers and dryers I find that just need simple repairs! Occasionally its more complex like bad bearings or bad transmission but most of the time it's not. Thanks for watching!
Yes cause everyone just has the electrical knowledge and required meters lying around. Be nice if manufacturers would stop making junk that breaks in 16 months.
Thank you for the help, absolutely was the belt, changed it myself which I never do untill I saw your video. Didn't know how easy it was till I saw you do it. Unbelievable I was gonna buy a new washer but thanks to you I saved hundreds of dollars. Thank you for making this video.
I have the same washer and I checked everything u checked and I still can’t find the problem on why my washer isn’t spinning is there any other video I can watch? My belt was good and everything else was good too
Dude thank you so much!! Bought this thing 3 years ago. Came home one night, did some laundry and it wasn't spinning. My heart dropped. I was so bummed. Like omg already? This thing was like over 500 bucks. Saw your video and it was the belt that slipped off underneath. You saved the day bro. Thank you and please keep making videos. If you find a water softer that you can fix or service ide love to see a breakdown of that. Mine broke and got stuck on regenerate so I bought a new one bc I didn't know my way around it. But I'm sure this new one will break eventually. Peace, and thank you for empowering homeowners everywhere.
I'm glad the video helped! I believe the washer still sells at home depot for around $600. It might not be a bad idea to keep a spare belt on hand. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. Was able to repair this myself, learned and saved money. In my case, the belt was mangled in the teeth of the pulley so I had to shake the pulley free after removing the nut to clear out the mangled belt.
Off to check my lid switch and capacitor. Belt is good and drain hose isn't plugged. AEfactory service technician came and replaced the agitator for a new one for $45. I'm not gonna use the warranty for this again. Thank you for the video!!
Great video. Taped under the machine is the owner's manual, it has a way to check diagnostic codes. It includes what the codes mean and how to reset or fix them. I'll definitely try the tips in the video though as I lost my owner's manual 🤣
Great Video! Very easy to follow step-by-step instructions. I noticed my GE Washer's spin cycle stopped working a couple weeks back and finally decided to look into what might be the issue. Hopefully I can potentially save some $$ if it was something you covered in this video...😃👍🏾
My lock switch had dirty contacts so it was sending a really high resistance value of around 70ohms back to the board, or an open circuit. The machine will NOT go into spin cycle if it doesn't read the lid is actually locked, you can disassemble the switch from the housing and use some 800 grit sandpaper to polish the contacts, they're under a little copper spring bar that you lift up once the switch itself is disassembled. Fortunately there's no parts that fall apart or jump out from this disassembly, just takes a tiny flat blade precision screwdriver to pop the switch out of the housing then take the cover off the switch. Make sure to leave the switch in the UNLOCKED position, there's a little slot on the back of the switch itself you can operate to lock/unlock by pushing it straight in, one press locks, another press unlock the switch. Makes sense how it works when you have it disassembled, you can tell if the switch is in the unlocked position because the little square plug on the bottom will be flush with the housing, in the locked position that square plug is extended a couple mm. If you don't have it unlocked you won't be able to close the lid of the washer once it's assembled.
You are so correct! My father taught me a LESSON A VERY LONG TIME AGO. If it’s broken, it’s 99% likely that it can be fixed. Therefore saving a lot of money in t long-run!!
No you should always throw everything away nothing can be fixed everything is garbage and it should be disposable personally I think the washer is only going to wash your shirt once and then throw it out
Great video!! That seemed too darn simple. Thanks for the heads up about the capacitor and the electical charge. I'm tired of spending money on these so called home appliance insurance companiea sending out techs who know nothing other than collect my deductible. Your video gives me confidence to check my own washer with hopes of fixing it myself. I look forward to checking out your other videos.
That was the goal! To show people that a lot of washer/dryer repairs are simple enough to do yourself. Thanks for watching! Best of luck in your repairs!
@@DuctTapeMechanic thanks for the Video. I bypass the lid switch on the same machine that yours by connecting the two wires that on the side but I still have no spinning even though it’s agitating. I have an error with lid lock any way to be successful without changing the lid switch?
I was so irritated with mine I just replaced my drain pump ($23 on Amazon) and now my washer isn’t spinning I was about to give up and just buy a new one glad I looked up this video…..I’ll definitely check the belt mine is a little older GE (it has 3 knobs)……repairs cost just as much as a new one these days…..you might just saved the day for me……I had no issue with my washer until after I had it in the storage for 15-16 months so it’s all new to me!!
Hey man I just wanna say thank you! Your videos not only are easy to understand but are straight to the point. You’ve helped me fix both my washer and dryer. All love man thank you again!
Thank you! My parents washer’s had an issue with the belt as well and i just fixed it thanks to you! But why in hell isn’t there something to stop the belt from getting off the big wheel? My parent’s belt was not broken, only a small piece is gone, it’s almost entirely there still. It was partly off the wheels though.
I have same washer. Been watching all videos. That was a simple fix. Probably elderly people, likely can’t do the fix themselves and you know repair men charge a lot to fix. I paid $600 three years ago for mine. I’m sure it’s more now. I subbed. Thanks!
Very informative video. Thank you for this. I notice my same washer doesn't spin sometimes. I usually unplug it, wait, and plug back in, and then it works. I would say after every 10 washes i need to reset it. Will i be checking for same issues, or its more of the "brain" of the washer. Would like to hear your wisdom
Strange. These washers are infamous for mode shifter problems. If the issues continues I would replace the shifter (this is what shifts the machine from agitate to spin)
Not spinning is a pretty general symptom, caused by belts, and other factors. Mine was a tub level air dome clogged up. It's a chamber the size of a pack of smokes with a hose connection on the side of the tub. The washer was overfilling, and emptying out the water and just sitting there running the pump after it was already empty, never running the spin cycle and shutting down. Blew some air into it to blast the crud out. works great now. Hope this helps others. LMK
@@fernandopalacios2399 I meant purging the box. It blows the crud back out into the tub, so it helps to have water in it. I used a small air compressor of course. I suppose lung power could also help, to a lesser degree.
Great video. Mine has electronic timer. Think mine is old and beyond repair. With your expertise is there a certain brand or brands that are made better and last longer? Thanks!
Great video! Turns out it was my belt that was shredded and stuck. I think some thing else got wrapped up when it started to shred. It looks like another clip in somewhere with three wires, red blue and brown. I’m not sure where it’s supposed to go now I was wondering if you had any tips? I’m kind of stuck where
That's strange, I wonder if the wiring harness for the motor or actuator got cought up in there. Might be worth while to make sure everything all wire lead back into the top of the washer
I’m having the same issue, the shredded band broke what I think was the harness for the three colored wires you mentioned. Were you able to fix that? If so, what is the name of the part you had to order? I can’t seem to find it. I’d appreciate your help.
Same issue like the belt hit it when it broke and now it spins for a few seconds then stops still fills up. Wondering what part that is and where to get it to give this machine one last hope before I kick it to the curb
Use the reset button aswell that’s on front left side where it gives you the different load sizes with each load you need to reset to get it to always spin.
Just watched your video 9/29/2023. Drive belt was fine on the customer's GE washer. Lid switch seems to be the problem, so I went to the local appliance parts store. He sold the last one he had in stock for $45.00. He could order one for me but they are now going for 100 dollars. Customer does not want to pay $107.00 with tax for a replacement switch. What I'm finding is that replacement appliance parts have shot up in price, some doubling. I just paid 135.00 for a refrigerator door gasket, and $133.00 for a whirlpool shock absorber set of 4. By the time you add labor on top of these parts, a lot of people would rather buy a new machine. So don't get to excited about doing appliance repair as a side job. Due to the increases on appliance parts, parts stores are not stocking a lot of the parts they would normally have on the shelf. I could go to a place that does have a lot of these parts in stock, but the customers may not want to pay the excessive prices for parts and labor.
I see your point about the rising cost of parts however, there are a lot of good parts on Amazon. For example this lid lock lock on Amazon is $25, I mean not everything is perfect on Amazon but iv seen brand new OEM lid switch go bad in a year as well (probably all made in the same factory)
They used to make appliances that lasted for decades. Now they have failure points designed in to keep us suckers on the hook. My newest appliance was made in 2005 & I fully intend to keep all my current ones.
You are leaving out an other important thing to check if isn't spinning and draining. The water sensor tube that goes to a pressure swith. This little clear tube is on the front left side, it tells the machine the water level and if there still water in the drum. . This tube can get clogged with deposits and then the pressure switch won't tell the drum to spin the water out . If you see the tube is brown you need clean it with a coat hanger, and if have one an air compressor to clear the deposits. I'd start with the press tube is clear then check the belt, then do the electrical checks. Not the other way around.
Hi DTM, I have the exact same washing and my problem isn't any of the 3 errors you explained. Mine is, when we wash any blankets, it begins to drain, then spin but immediately stops as if the load is too unbalanced. Then, I try to balance the load again and put the washer in 'Drain and Spin' mode only. The washer then begins to fill up and run through a full cycle, drain and begin to spin and stops spinning. No matter how many times I try to 'balance' the load, and begin a spin, it fills up with water and goes thru the whole cycle again. I probably have run 300 gallons out just trying to spin out the water. The water evac pump seems to work just fine. Ideas to try?
Is the washer banging around when it's not balanced? If so your suspension rods might be shot (it often happens this machine and is only like a $50 repair). Also does it do this for all loads or only blankets?
@@DuctTapeMechanic Thank you for the helpful video and tips! I too have this GE washer and the same issues described by SaltyKayak. In the past, when the machine was new if it became unbalanced it would add a little water, agitate and attempt to rebalance the load itself. The spin cycle would wring most of the water out and it was great. Now when a load becomes unbalanced during the spin cycle the machine attempts to add water and rebalance, but it does not rebalance or complete a spin cycle. The water drains from the drum, but the clothes are sopping wet due to the lack of centrifugal force squeezing the water out. I have checked all the usual suspects for drainage problems (hose clogs, pump not working, etc.) and electronic spin cycle signals (like the ones listed in your video); they were all working properly. When I moved the washer to start taking it apart, there was a small pile of rubber-like shavings under the machine. A larger amount of the black rubber shavings were piled inside the wheel/transmission cover like an old pencil sharpener. I checked the belt and it seems to be in fair condition. It isn't frayed or worn unevenly. It did seem to have some sections where the black shavings had been caught in the belt grooves and the friction caused them to fuse to the belt- unless the shavings are from the belt. Is there another part that could be wearing and leaving the shavings under the machine?
@SaltyKayak did you ever find a resolution? This is the same exact scenario we are in with ours! Ive been running it since 5pl and its now 10pm and FINALLY got it to spin out only because i removed 3 pair of jeans. So hardly anything was in it! Its happening atleast once a week now.
I have the same washer, everything seems to work, but will not do the last spin dry. It drains, lid lock seems to work, will spin when it goes into the last rinse cycle, but stops after that leaving everything soaking wet. Replace the drain pump, belt, capacitor tested good.
We have the same machine: 1. Make sure your husband does not open the lid on the middle of spinning or during a drain pause. It will stop spinning. You will have to start a hole cycle again. 2. If you turn on the drain and spin, make sure the options are off otherwise it won't spin! 3. We are grateful for this video, but thank gosh, we did not have to use it!
I pick up washers and dryers all the time to fix and flip. I made so much good money over the summer. You can make a decent buck if you know how to do it.
Mine would not spin or drain. I replaced the pump and discovered the belt was covered in oil from the motor. I took off the belt and cleaned it with hot water and Dawn. Then I cleaned the pulleys and checked the motor for leaks. I put it all back together, ran a test load and bam. It works like new.
Thank you so much! I'm not a Mr Fix It by no means but this video just made me look like one in the eyes of my kids! We had the same issue with our GE washer today and this video make me look like Mr Dad The Fix It Man!
I have a similar set of GE washer/dryer. I am looking to sort out an issue with the dryer sensing rails. They are slightly warped and have a gap underneath. Fabrics get caught and the dryer never shuts off. Do you have a suggestion or video for a fix? Sorry to hear that they are not good, like so many are. Enjoy your videos, thank you.
I have the same washer but sometimes the clothes are still wet when the washer finishes the cycle. Too wet to put in the dryer. I have to do dry and spin each time. What would you suggest ?
I have a GE gwtn4250d2ws that seems to work with out clothes but once there is clothes, it would get stuck on Rinse and fill light going off/on. I check the error flashing light and it shows 10. Will be replacing the door switch to see if that is the cause if not might have to buy another since new motor and board is almost $200 each
On these washers the motors got overfilled and the excess falls on the belt And the belt gets greasy causing draining and spinning issues. I would suggest cleaning the greasy of the pulleys. A light sand with sandpaper works. You want to get the grip again. If belt it’s no good I’ll put it back on if not order a new one they’re like 9 bucks
LOL My washing machine is holding all my socks hostage in a sloppy wet mess lol . Thanks for the video. I have a magnetic switch for a Door safety so I ruled that out. So I know what I will be doing this weekend.
@@DuctTapeMechanic I use a Magnet to start the machine with lid open, The Spin cycle will run with all the socks out and water out, the Pump did take the water out and the washer agitator works so the motor works. So Im guess clutch. But have a question Is the Capacitor used only in the higher speed like Spin?
@@Junkboy888 i norder for the motor to work current has to go through the capacitor. Sometimes when capacitors began to fail they will work with no load (no laundry or if the motor is turning by hand) but will not work when there is a load (I would check that first). But yes it could be a bad clutch or even bad motor.
Thank you for this! What about for one (same model) that won't spin during a regular cycle, but will when you set it to drain and spin? I thought it was that the loads were too big or unbalanced, but playing with that doesn't seem to change anything.
That js strange almost seems like a main board issue. Does it just stop in the middle of the cycle when it's supposed to spin? Also just try resetting the machine by unplugging jt
@@DuctTapeMechanic Yes, that’s exactly what it does…just like it decided all of a sudden that it’s done 🤦🏻♀️😂 Will try unplugging it-hadn’t thought of that!
The video did get better towards the end too much unnecessary information at the beginning and it would have been really nice if you could say how you got the screws off... Thanks
Another Great Video... Thx... and that is a great machine and easy to use and repair... good job... that machine is about $700 at home depot...
Thank you! Yes its around $700 plus a 4 week wait to actually have it delivered to your house
@@DuctTapeMechanic ¹
Really?? I find that it's a pain in my arse😭
I bought this washer and it won't spin or drain. Although I jacked w it today and it drained, weird. It acted like it worked hard, just won't spin 🥴🙄😭😭
@@amyuncagedhow did you fix that issue?
I just fixed my washer and looked like a hero in front of my fiance. Thank you! 🙌🏽
Awesome glad to help! Good work!
TIP TO PUT NEW BELT ON. This video helped a lot. My belt was broken. The new belt was stiff and difficult to put on right out of the bag. So I took a hair dyer and warmed the belt up and it became more pliable and slipped right on.
That is a good idea. It was a bit stiff to put the belt back on! Thanks for watching!
@@DuctTapeMechanic hey bro will it spin with just power and water connected. I'm testing but it wont spin
Thank you so much for your videos !! My husband and I were able to fix our machine together He’s a paraplegic and so him trying to fit in our laundry room and do the things he would’ve been able to do before prove to be very challenging but I showed him this video and together we were able to dump the washer over and fix the belt. Thank you!!
That is awesome! Great job getting it fixed.
Thank you so much! you saved me from buying a new machine. My model is not this one. I called a repair guy, he came the first time and said it was a clogged hose, after two washes the problem started again. The second time he said the problem would be the switch and it would be better buy a new machine because that brand they weren't even repairing it anymore. Before buy a new one I saw your video. It was more expensive to pay his visit than to buy the part and fix it.
Perfect! Im glad the video helped! Thanks for watching
My GE washer was not spinning to full speed - only half speed. I suspected that the timer wasn't switching the motor to full speed but didn't want to risk $300 cost of a timer vs a new machine costing $700. As a final try before I put the machine on the curb, I hit the timer about 5 or 6 times with a steel socket (not to break it but shake it a bit). I put the machine in spin mode, started, and voila! The machine was spinning high speed again! Thanks for these videos. They help us think critically through these problems!
Where is the timer located? My washer spins for 5 seconds then stops (spin test). Thanks
Same ! I gotta try this
You just saved me $400 on a new washer! Tipped it over and removed the cover and the belt was popped off. Popped it back on and tightened the loose pulley (probably the reason the belt came off in the first place)and good as new!! Thanks Man
Hey thats great! Good work
I like the "test area" setup you've got. I've been repairing and selling "free" appliances and lawn equipment for years.
Thank you! Right on man!!!
This video saved me hundreds of dollars. My issue was the $30 lid switch, which I was told by someone who has worked on these for years couldn’t be the problem, so thank you for this video!
Awesome Job! Thanks for watching!
Don’t got someone to teach me and I don’t have money to throw things away so here we are! Thanks 🎉
Your welcome!
Totally feel you, I’m the same way! I hope you got yours fixed
great video! It took me longer to clear a path and un-hook the washer than it did to find that the belt slipped off after my son over-loaded washer too many times....thank you so much!!
@@staceyberry6523 awesome! Great work!
Great video, luckily my belt slipped and I was able to put it back on. It's working like a dream again. This is the first video that broke everything down and helped me get straight to it.
I just did this and no it was not a sock..it was a shoe string! Easy fix! Thank you so much!
Great video. Had the same problem. Saved me a lot of troubleshooting because getting to the belt is so easy and it is so likely to fail that it was the first thing I wanted to check!
Glad the video helped!
I fixed the same model GE washer three times just from this video. Two times were resetting the code this time I think it's the belt. My husband bought me a speed Queen for Christmas so I'm not anticipating any repairs knock on dryer Lint.... This has me thinking about slapping on a new belt and throwing it on marketplace and getting my money's worth from it. 5 years old over $500
Lucky you! Speed queen is definitely the cream of the crop!
Thanks for the video! I just fixed a neighbors GE washer with the same problem, a shredded drive belt, though not nearly as bad as yours, but enough to get me to check it and sure enough, it was in 2 pieces!! Thanks for the tip!!
Glad to help!
Thank you for the helpful video and tips! I too have this GE washer and the same issues described by SaltyKayak. In the past, when the machine was new if it became unbalanced it would add a little water, agitate and attempt to rebalance the load itself. The spin cycle would wring most of the water out and it was great. Now when a load becomes unbalanced during the spin cycle the machine attempts to add water and rebalance, but it does not rebalance or complete a spin cycle. The water drains from the drum, but the clothes are sopping wet due to the lack of centrifugal force squeezing the water out. I have checked all the usual suspects for drainage problems (hose clogs, pump not working, etc.) and electronic spin cycle signals (like the ones listed in your video); they were all working properly. When I moved the washer to start taking it apart, there was a small pile of rubber-like shavings under the machine. A larger amount of the black rubber shavings were piled inside the wheel/transmission cover like an old pencil sharpener. I checked the belt and it seems to be in fair condition. It isn't frayed or worn unevenly. It did seem to have some sections where the black shavings had been caught in the belt grooves and the friction caused them to fuse to the belt- unless the shavings are from the belt. Is there another part that could be wearing and leaving the shavings under the machine?
That is a bit strange. Perhaps inspect the groves on the motor pully to see if they are damaged and eating away at the belt. Maybe swap to a new belt and see if the symptoms go way (I think a new one is only like $20).
@@DuctTapeMechanic Thank you! I will post again after the new belt arrives.
@@daxlance6492 This is the exact issue I'm dealing with. I'll crack it open, wonder if mine has the same "shavings." If you figure it out I'd appreciate an update
Did you ever find a solution? Mine is doing the same thing. I have ran 2 loads on normal and 3 drain & spin cycles to no avail! Its draining fine but isnt spinning. I finally pulled out 3 pair of jeans now anything is barely in the washer. Hoping it will be the trick but this happens atleast once a week and i shouldnt have to remove clothes to get it to spin out. Im not over-loading, either!
Hi friends. Also, looking for some advice. My driver belt was shredded, but the pulley is locked. It won't spin all the way. Any ideas or helo?
We just checked our belt and it was the same problem! Thank you so much!!!! We REALLY needed it to be fixable!!!!!❤
That's awesome! Glad to help!
Ok so the new drive belt just came, we ordered the correct belt but it seems a touch small, other videos say to use zip ties to stretch it? Or to heat it up? What do you do?
@kkqueen when they are new they are very tight. You may have to use a screwdriver to carefully pry it on.
Thank you for sharing this excellent video,now I can further troubleshoot the cause of my washer not spinning! 👍🏻
Awesome! Best of luck
@@DuctTapeMechanic thanks bud!
Thanks my man! Saved me hundreds of dollars because my belt was broken. Shipping cost more than the part. So easy to install. Thank you!
Great upload thanks. Really useful tips and tricks that hopefully saves people a lot of time and headaches.
Perhaps worth mentioning to those not that familiar with Capacitors is that a multimeter tests Farads and that the results can be misleading. A capacitor showing the correct Farad reading can still be non functioning if its ESR is out. To fully test a capacitor you need an ESR meter, but I understand that's not a normal piece of kit owned by most.
If in doubt it's often worth just trying a new capacitor, and if its not needed, well then-you've got a spare.
If you test capacitors or enjoy electronics repair, a decent ESR meter sets you back about 50 USD and also has some other useful functions and to a degree allows you to test components on a circuit board.
Great video. Have that "not spinning" problem right now. Will run through the tests and use your guidance to see if I can sort it out.
On a previous repair effort of this same washer I found a part of a zip tie about 1.5 inches long that had slipped through the holes in the drum and lodged vertically in the motor volute. That stopped the impeller from turning and it would not drain. Took out the zip tie piece and it worked great until this latest challenge.
Best of luck in your repair! Seems like you got a good handle of things!
How can you check "continuity" ?
@@montinorris7740with a multimeter
Thank you for this video. If it was for my wife, she would’ve got a new washer lol. I do want to suggest getting the OEM part, as the amazon chinese belt was slightly smaller than what I needed.
Thank you for this video. It has encouraged me to diagnose and fix our similar GE washer. I’m asking you DuctTape Mechanic, or anyone else for help. The question is: 1. What exactly is malfunctioning? 2. How to fix it. Here are the symptoms. It stops dead at the rinse cycle. If I manually drain the water into the lower floor drain, everything starts working. But then at drain and spin is stops again. Once again I manually drain it and the spin starts working. It made me suspect the pump, but Lo and behold, in one test the pump worked and all was good. (Intermittent electrical problem?) SO!? It’s either the pump, or motor, or a sensor. The spin works fine so it’s not the motor. The pump is not working, but did fine at least once. My bet is that a sensor that talks to the computer that controls the pump is intermittently malfunctioning, but I have no idea what to do once you take the back cover off. Any ideas or suggestions is greatly appreciated, and thank you for your videos.
Ever figure it out? Having same kind of problem, works up until last drain and spin cycle.
@@EasedBluntman NO. The pump works well and strong - when it works. The problem is intermittent. When the drain and spin does not work we lower the drain spout to the floor drain and let gravity drain it. When the sensors see the water draining the spin kicks in and works. First load always seems to work fine. Subsequent loads require the gravity drain to make the spin work. I don’t know what the real problem is or the solution. I know the pump works well and strong. I suspect something electrical and electronic (sensor) is not working. I don’t have the tools, skill, or experience to diagnose it any further. All I can say is try the gravity drain and see if your spin kicks in.
@@edwardschenk7854 it does. I’m about where you’re at, I’ll probably just give in and try replacing the pump
Amazing that people would rather send a good appliance to a land fill instead of a simple repair!
Thank you for this info!
You would be surprised how many washers and dryers I find that just need simple repairs! Occasionally its more complex like bad bearings or bad transmission but most of the time it's not. Thanks for watching!
Yes cause everyone just has the electrical knowledge and required meters lying around. Be nice if manufacturers would stop making junk that breaks in 16 months.
Thank you for the help, absolutely was the belt, changed it myself which I never do untill I saw your video. Didn't know how easy it was till I saw you do it. Unbelievable I was gonna buy a new washer but thanks to you I saved hundreds of dollars. Thank you for making this video.
Glad to help! Good work on getting your machine going!
I have the same washer and I checked everything u checked and I still can’t find the problem on why my washer isn’t spinning is there any other video I can watch? My belt was good and everything else was good too
Where'd you get the belt 😊
Best video ever. Just saved me $1000 from getting a new washer. The drive belt was chewed up. Thanks
Saved me a huge headache with this one. Thank you for the video!
You're welcome!
Thank you so much for the video. We found that our three year old GE washer’s belt is completely broken.
Glad to help!
Dude thank you so much!! Bought this thing 3 years ago. Came home one night, did some laundry and it wasn't spinning. My heart dropped. I was so bummed. Like omg already? This thing was like over 500 bucks. Saw your video and it was the belt that slipped off underneath. You saved the day bro. Thank you and please keep making videos. If you find a water softer that you can fix or service ide love to see a breakdown of that. Mine broke and got stuck on regenerate so I bought a new one bc I didn't know my way around it. But I'm sure this new one will break eventually. Peace, and thank you for empowering homeowners everywhere.
I'm glad the video helped! I believe the washer still sells at home depot for around $600. It might not be a bad idea to keep a spare belt on hand. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. Was able to repair this myself, learned and saved money. In my case, the belt was mangled in the teeth of the pulley so I had to shake the pulley free after removing the nut to clear out the mangled belt.
Glad you found the video helpful!
I've never fixed anything in my life, usually I just break stuff but you just helped me fix my washer lol
Awesome! Glad I could help!
Outstanding my Man.Me and the Wife just fixed our washer together. No fighting LOL. Thanks👍
Fantastic! Always great to work together!
My washer had the same problem. Thank to your video, I was able to trouble shoot it. Save a lot of money to fix! Thank you so much!!
Your welcome! Glad to help!
My washer had a broken belt and your video helped me troubleshoot and fix the problem. Saved me a good sum of money! Thank you!
Awesome to hear! Glad it helped.
Off to check my lid switch and capacitor. Belt is good and drain hose isn't plugged. AEfactory service technician came and replaced the agitator for a new one for $45. I'm not gonna use the warranty for this again. Thank you for the video!!
Best of luck!
Thanks so much for this video. I have extract washer and it was doing the exact same thing. $50 in parts, and my washer is fixed.
Good troubleshooting, I checked my belt, (actually could smell it) and that was the issue as well for mine, easy cheap fix! Thanks.
Thank you sir!
Thanks man, I'd have never known to check the capacitor had I not seen your video. Fixed my problem and saved me a ton of time.
I'm glad it worked! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the vid, way cheaper than paying a mechanic!
Glad to help!
This video helped me solve my problem. It was my drive belt. Thank you.
That's awesome! Great job
Thank you Young Man❤ you saved this Old Granny's Washing machine! New Fan here🎉
Glad to help! Great job doing it yourself!
Great video. Taped under the machine is the owner's manual, it has a way to check diagnostic codes. It includes what the codes mean and how to reset or fix them. I'll definitely try the tips in the video though as I lost my owner's manual 🤣
It's not an owners manual, it's a tech sheet for the repair man.
Both the owners manual and diagnostics book are on ManualsLib
Great Video! Very easy to follow step-by-step instructions.
I noticed my GE Washer's spin cycle stopped working a couple weeks back and finally decided to look into what might be the issue. Hopefully I can potentially save some $$ if it was something you covered in this video...😃👍🏾
Best of luck!
@@DuctTapeMechanic I'll be sure to drop you a line and let you know how it goes!
My belt was super greasy
Thank you and Million thnks ....just fix my Washer coast me $14 .....This video saved me hundreds of dollars.....
You're welcome! Glad I could help!
My lock switch had dirty contacts so it was sending a really high resistance value of around 70ohms back to the board, or an open circuit. The machine will NOT go into spin cycle if it doesn't read the lid is actually locked, you can disassemble the switch from the housing and use some 800 grit sandpaper to polish the contacts, they're under a little copper spring bar that you lift up once the switch itself is disassembled. Fortunately there's no parts that fall apart or jump out from this disassembly, just takes a tiny flat blade precision screwdriver to pop the switch out of the housing then take the cover off the switch.
Make sure to leave the switch in the UNLOCKED position, there's a little slot on the back of the switch itself you can operate to lock/unlock by pushing it straight in, one press locks, another press unlock the switch. Makes sense how it works when you have it disassembled, you can tell if the switch is in the unlocked position because the little square plug on the bottom will be flush with the housing, in the locked position that square plug is extended a couple mm. If you don't have it unlocked you won't be able to close the lid of the washer once it's assembled.
Our machine had a lid lock failure we think. But I now know how to check it from your video. Thanks
Awesome!
Thank you for this video-fixed our washing machine for the cost of a belt ($12)! Truly grateful to you!
Your welcome!
You are so correct! My father taught me a LESSON A VERY LONG TIME AGO. If it’s broken, it’s 99% likely that it can be fixed. Therefore saving a lot of money in t long-run!!
Absolutely correctly! Especially with washers and dryers most of the time it's a simple repair.
No you should always throw everything away nothing can be fixed everything is garbage and it should be disposable personally I think the washer is only going to wash your shirt once and then throw it out
So I tried to bypass the switch, now it won't start any cycle 😅
Great video!! That seemed too darn simple. Thanks for the heads up about the capacitor and the electical charge.
I'm tired of spending money on these so called home appliance insurance companiea sending out techs who know nothing other than collect my deductible.
Your video gives me confidence to check my own washer with hopes of fixing it myself. I look forward to checking out your other videos.
That was the goal! To show people that a lot of washer/dryer repairs are simple enough to do yourself. Thanks for watching! Best of luck in your repairs!
Appreciate the video. I too have no spin. Drive belt is good. Tomorrow I’ll remove the belt and see if the motor spins. Thanks
Make sure to check if the lid switch is working as well! Best of luck
@@DuctTapeMechanic thanks for the Video. I bypass the lid switch on the same machine that yours by connecting the two wires that on the side but I still have no spinning even though it’s agitating. I have an error with lid lock any way to be successful without changing the lid switch?
I was so irritated with mine I just replaced my drain pump ($23 on Amazon) and now my washer isn’t spinning I was about to give up and just buy a new one glad I looked up this video…..I’ll definitely check the belt mine is a little older GE (it has 3 knobs)……repairs cost just as much as a new one these days…..you might just saved the day for me……I had no issue with my washer until after I had it in the storage for 15-16 months so it’s all new to me!!
Great video!! I appreciate how you went through the trouble shooting process.
Hey man I just wanna say thank you! Your videos not only are easy to understand but are straight to the point. You’ve helped me fix both my washer and dryer. All love man thank you again!
Appreciate the love and support. Comments like this keep me going!
Hi, where can I buy the belt?
A lot of times we just don't have the help to move it ..I'm going to find help..I feel confident I can do this as a woman....THANKS FOR THE KNOWLEDGE
Yeah I gotta say, nice job on the video. You get right into it and show a lot of good troubleshoots. Much appreciated!
Your welcome!
Thank you! My parents washer’s had an issue with the belt as well and i just fixed it thanks to you!
But why in hell isn’t there something to stop the belt from getting off the big wheel? My parent’s belt was not broken, only a small piece is gone, it’s almost entirely there still. It was partly off the wheels though.
Thank you very much! You solved my problem and saved me a lot of money!
Great video. Have the same washer and the same problem. Will check it tomorrow.
Best of luck!
I have same washer. Been watching all videos. That was a simple fix. Probably elderly people, likely can’t do the fix themselves and you know repair men charge a lot to fix. I paid $600 three years ago for mine. I’m sure it’s more now. I subbed. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
You didn't say what the fix was for yours.
In my case it was the drive belt on my GE washer that split, thanks for the video man!
Thanks, good info! If it's a belt issue, where does one get a new belt and how does one know what size. type etc of belt to get?
Thank you so much for the free knowledge. It was the belt for me.
Your welcome! Glad i could help!
Very informative video. Thank you for this. I notice my same washer doesn't spin sometimes. I usually unplug it, wait, and plug back in, and then it works. I would say after every 10 washes i need to reset it. Will i be checking for same issues, or its more of the "brain" of the washer. Would like to hear your wisdom
Strange. These washers are infamous for mode shifter problems. If the issues continues I would replace the shifter (this is what shifts the machine from agitate to spin)
Not spinning is a pretty general symptom, caused by belts, and other factors. Mine was a tub level air dome clogged up. It's a chamber the size of a pack of smokes with a hose connection on the side of the tub. The washer was overfilling, and emptying out the water and just sitting there running the pump after it was already empty, never running the spin cycle and shutting down.
Blew some air into it to blast the crud out. works great now. Hope this helps others. LMK
Dirty pressure hose classic cause of an overflow. Nice job!
Hi. So when you said you blew it out, were you purging the hose or the box?
@@fernandopalacios2399 I meant purging the box. It blows the crud back out into the tub, so it helps to have water in it. I used a small air compressor of course. I suppose lung power could also help, to a lesser degree.
@@imjabroni1 appreciate the reply
Ive had this washer and matching dryer for 8 years now. Its finally showing signs of maintenance lol.
8 years is really good. Especially for these machines
Awesome video dude that fixed my washer belt was shredded and the sensor was broken
Great job on the fix!
Great video. Mine has electronic timer. Think mine is old and beyond repair. With your expertise is there a certain brand or brands that are made better and last longer? Thanks!
Honestly the older style whirlpool/kenmore (same company) washers are by the best.
THANK YOU!!! BAD BELT REPLACED AND SHE'S FIXED!!!
Thank you for this... was able to troubleshoot this exact washer that I own...bad lid switch
Awesome! Great job!
Great video. Fixed my problem and saved me money! Thank you.
You're welcome! I'm glad it helped!
Great video! Turns out it was my belt that was shredded and stuck. I think some thing else got wrapped up when it started to shred. It looks like another clip in somewhere with three wires, red blue and brown. I’m not sure where it’s supposed to go now I was wondering if you had any tips? I’m kind of stuck where
That's strange, I wonder if the wiring harness for the motor or actuator got cought up in there. Might be worth while to make sure everything all wire lead back into the top of the washer
I’m having the same issue, the shredded band broke what I think was the harness for the three colored wires you mentioned. Were you able to fix that? If so, what is the name of the part you had to order? I can’t seem to find it. I’d appreciate your help.
Same issue like the belt hit it when it broke and now it spins for a few seconds then stops still fills up. Wondering what part that is and where to get it to give this machine one last hope before I kick it to the curb
Use the reset button aswell that’s on front left side where it gives you the different load sizes with each load you need to reset to get it to always spin.
Just watched your video 9/29/2023. Drive belt was fine on the customer's GE washer. Lid switch seems to be the problem, so I went to the local appliance parts store. He sold the last one he had in stock for $45.00. He could order one for me but they are now going for 100 dollars. Customer does not want to pay $107.00 with tax for a replacement switch. What I'm finding is that replacement appliance parts have shot up in price, some doubling. I just paid 135.00 for a refrigerator door gasket, and $133.00 for a whirlpool shock absorber set of 4. By the time you add labor on top of these parts, a lot of people would rather buy a new machine. So don't get to excited about doing appliance repair as a side job. Due to the increases on appliance parts, parts stores are not stocking a lot of the parts they would normally have on the shelf. I could go to a place that does have a lot of these parts in stock, but the customers may not want to pay the excessive prices for parts and labor.
I see your point about the rising cost of parts however, there are a lot of good parts on Amazon. For example this lid lock lock on Amazon is $25, I mean not everything is perfect on Amazon but iv seen brand new OEM lid switch go bad in a year as well (probably all made in the same factory)
They used to make appliances that lasted for decades. Now they have failure points designed in to keep us suckers on the hook. My newest appliance was made in 2005 & I fully intend to keep all my current ones.
You are leaving out an other important thing to check if isn't spinning and draining. The water sensor tube that goes to a pressure swith. This little clear tube is on the front left side, it tells the machine the water level and if there still water in the drum. . This tube can get clogged with deposits and then the pressure switch won't tell the drum to spin the water out . If you see the tube is brown you need clean it with a coat hanger, and if have one an air compressor to clear the deposits.
I'd start with the press tube is clear then check the belt, then do the electrical checks. Not the other way around.
Hi DTM, I have the exact same washing and my problem isn't any of the 3 errors you explained. Mine is, when we wash any blankets, it begins to drain, then spin but immediately stops as if the load is too unbalanced. Then, I try to balance the load again and put the washer in 'Drain and Spin' mode only. The washer then begins to fill up and run through a full cycle, drain and begin to spin and stops spinning. No matter how many times I try to 'balance' the load, and begin a spin, it fills up with water and goes thru the whole cycle again. I probably have run 300 gallons out just trying to spin out the water. The water evac pump seems to work just fine. Ideas to try?
Is the washer banging around when it's not balanced? If so your suspension rods might be shot (it often happens this machine and is only like a $50 repair). Also does it do this for all loads or only blankets?
@@DuctTapeMechanic Thank you for the helpful video and tips! I too have this GE washer and the same issues described by SaltyKayak. In the past, when the machine was new if it became unbalanced it would add a little water, agitate and attempt to rebalance the load itself. The spin cycle would wring most of the water out and it was great. Now when a load becomes unbalanced during the spin cycle the machine attempts to add water and rebalance, but it does not rebalance or complete a spin cycle. The water drains from the drum, but the clothes are sopping wet due to the lack of centrifugal force squeezing the water out. I have checked all the usual suspects for drainage problems (hose clogs, pump not working, etc.) and electronic spin cycle signals (like the ones listed in your video); they were all working properly. When I moved the washer to start taking it apart, there was a small pile of rubber-like shavings under the machine. A larger amount of the black rubber shavings were piled inside the wheel/transmission cover like an old pencil sharpener. I checked the belt and it seems to be in fair condition. It isn't frayed or worn unevenly. It did seem to have some sections where the black shavings had been caught in the belt grooves and the friction caused them to fuse to the belt- unless the shavings are from the belt. Is there another part that could be wearing and leaving the shavings under the machine?
@@daxlance6492 same thing here!
@SaltyKayak did you ever find a resolution? This is the same exact scenario we are in with ours! Ive been running it since 5pl and its now 10pm and FINALLY got it to spin out only because i removed 3 pair of jeans. So hardly anything was in it! Its happening atleast once a week now.
I have the same washer, everything seems to work, but will not do the last spin dry. It drains, lid lock seems to work, will spin when it goes into the last rinse cycle, but stops after that leaving everything soaking wet. Replace the drain pump, belt, capacitor tested good.
Sounds like an issue with the mode shifter. Try rebooting it before doing anything
@@DuctTapeMechanic how do I reboot it?
We have the same machine:
1. Make sure your husband does not open the lid on the middle of spinning or during a drain pause. It will stop spinning. You will have to start a hole cycle again.
2. If you turn on the drain and spin, make sure the options are off otherwise it won't spin!
3. We are grateful for this video, but thank gosh, we did not have to use it!
Great tips! Glad you didn't need the video either!
Great video!!! what is the part number for the drive belt? Thanks
Thank you. I would search model number on Amazon. They typically rum about $10 to $15
I pick up washers and dryers all the time to fix and flip. I made so much good money over the summer. You can make a decent buck if you know how to do it.
Thanks for your help!!! This video is perfect I fixes mine in about 30 minutes
Your welcome! Good work on getting it repaired!
I wish you would have shown how to repair the lid lock. And how did you actually check the Lid plug?
Mine would not spin or drain. I replaced the pump and discovered the belt was covered in oil from the motor. I took off the belt and cleaned it with hot water and Dawn. Then I cleaned the pulleys and checked the motor for leaks. I put it all back together, ran a test load and bam. It works like new.
Thank you so much! I'm not a Mr Fix It by no means but this video just made me look like one in the eyes of my kids! We had the same issue with our GE washer today and this video make me look like Mr Dad The Fix It Man!
Hey thats great to hear! Good work
Thanks for the info! As my handles suggests, I dig that kind of thing!
Thanks for watching!
I have a similar set of GE washer/dryer. I am looking to sort out an issue with the dryer sensing rails. They are slightly warped and have a gap underneath. Fabrics get caught and the dryer never shuts off. Do you have a suggestion or video for a fix? Sorry to hear that they are not good, like so many are. Enjoy your videos, thank you.
Broooo that was my issue the belt was torn apart!! just ordered replacement part 290D1101P005 belt - Thanks man
Awesome! Glad I could help!
I have the same washer but sometimes the clothes are still wet when the washer finishes the cycle. Too wet to put in the dryer. I have to do dry and spin each time. What would you suggest ?
I have a GE gwtn4250d2ws that seems to work with out clothes but once there is clothes, it would get stuck on Rinse and fill light going off/on. I check the error flashing light and it shows 10. Will be replacing the door switch to see if that is the cause if not might have to buy another since new motor and board is almost $200 each
Honestly speaking these are horrible machines.
On these washers the motors got overfilled and the excess falls on the belt And the belt gets greasy causing draining and spinning issues. I would suggest cleaning the greasy of the pulleys. A light sand with sandpaper works. You want to get the grip again. If belt it’s no good I’ll put it back on if not order a new one they’re like 9 bucks
Where can you order the belt for this specific washer?
@@thegrantfamily3529 I replied but I guess my answered got deleted. I wonder why 🤔
LOL My washing machine is holding all my socks hostage in a sloppy wet mess lol . Thanks for the video. I have a magnetic switch for a Door safety so I ruled that out. So I know what I will be doing this weekend.
I'm guessing you have a older ge/hotpoint washer. Those magnetic door switches are notorious for going bad as well as the motor capacitor
@@DuctTapeMechanic I use a Magnet to start the machine with lid open, The Spin cycle will run with all the socks out and water out, the Pump did take the water out and the washer agitator works so the motor works. So Im guess clutch. But have a question Is the Capacitor used only in the higher speed like Spin?
@@Junkboy888 i norder for the motor to work current has to go through the capacitor. Sometimes when capacitors began to fail they will work with no load (no laundry or if the motor is turning by hand) but will not work when there is a load (I would check that first). But yes it could be a bad clutch or even bad motor.
Really good job at explaining everything! 👍🏾
Thank you!
That ping sound at at 9:08 was so perfectly timed.
God bless! Thank you for making this video. Very helpful 👍
Glad to help!
Thank you for this! What about for one (same model) that won't spin during a regular cycle, but will when you set it to drain and spin? I thought it was that the loads were too big or unbalanced, but playing with that doesn't seem to change anything.
That js strange almost seems like a main board issue. Does it just stop in the middle of the cycle when it's supposed to spin? Also just try resetting the machine by unplugging jt
@@DuctTapeMechanic Yes, that’s exactly what it does…just like it decided all of a sudden that it’s done 🤦🏻♀️😂 Will try unplugging it-hadn’t thought of that!
The video did get better towards the end too much unnecessary information at the beginning and it would have been really nice if you could say how you got the screws off... Thanks
Belt good, Continuity, fills and drains. But will not agitate or spin. I even replaced the board. Same model as the one in your video.
It fills with water sits and then drains..
Speed sensor on motor my friend. That’s what I’d try.
I have the same problem ...any luck now?
Thank you. I learn a lot from you .
Glad to help!
You didn't show the locking latch part 😢
But seriously, thank you for this. You saved me bunches 💰
This man is a wizard.