Kurt Machinist Mill Vise Repair
Вставка
- Опубліковано 21 вер 2024
- Repairing a frozen screw on a Kurt machinist vise.
Support VintageMachinery.org on Patreon:
/ vintagemachinery
Make a one time donation to VintageMachinery via PayPal:
www.paypal.me/...
Please Visit: www.vintagemach...
Sponsored by:
American Rotary Phase Converters
www.americanro...
Use checkout code "Vintage10" for a 10% discount on all AD, ADX and AI converters!
I was really hoping to see an autopsy on the old part!
don't leave us hanging Keith we need to see the old screw forced into submission.
It would be interesting to mill the side off the old casting so the problem is visible. I appreciate this has no practical value except satisfying curiosity :-)
Just cut the shaft off, the front moves free enough that you can wind the good section of ACME screw out and see the condition of it. Likely there is a cracked piece that has skewed, and thus locks up the nut when it tries to engage.
I was waiting for the autopsy. Too bad it didn't come. I would have split the nut down the sides to get it apart and find out for sure what really happened.
Split that nut and satisfy my curiosity
I think option 1 would have been just more brute force - if it snaps, it snaps. Option 2 was Keith's fix.
Keith, please do open the jammed part and let us see what went "Boing" inside.
#KeithRucker: I had a Kurt vise with EXACTLY the same problem. I got it from a shop that used compressed air to blow off everything at 120+PSI, therefore chips get into all the places that they are not supposed to. I soaked my vise parts for about a week in WD40, with some careful back and forth and persuasion the screw came free. FTR: the set screw holding the sphere washer in place should be backed off 1/8-1/4 turn after snugging it lightly, that is per Kurt's instructions.
Thanks, I'm glad someone other than me pays attention to the manufacturers instructions. They should know how to assemble their own product. I always back it off the 1/8 turn..
Yes, definitely back off the adjustment screw slightly for free movement of the slide. The 45 degree angle that Keith briefly mentioned contacts the hardened half-sphere to keep the rear jaw from rising when the vise is tightened. It’s a valuable design feature on all KURT vises.
Yup they need to flex a bit.
This is why I try to post a reply when there is a legit reason, for whatever reason apparently if you have a UA-cam channel that makes you the subject matter expert (not that Keith doesn't deserve it). I think it is important to always post a reply with accurate information when warranted, not to fact check Keith or put him down but in the event that someone sees the video they have the opportunity to get more accurate information. Everyone is better off when there is inhanced discussion.
Keith is so dedicated to vintage machinery that he still uses internet explorer!
I was waiting for you to force the old screw out to see what happened, now that you no longer need it.
Keith, The set screw should not be tight. You will find that the movable jaw slides much smoother when set screw is installed correctly. I normally don't leave comments but it really does make a difference.
Me, I would not be able to resist painting it blue. Thanks for the video Keith.
Why blue, pink looks better for paintjob overhaul
@@hinz1 Because KURT vises are always that good looking blue.
Yah, I thought painting it would be a friendly thing to do.
Nice video, Keith ! Now I know how to disassemble a Kurt vice - fwiw. I'm now retired from my self-employment doing specialty electronic design & prototype manufacturing, so watching machinist videos is interesting & relaxing - unlike my business working with tweezers & tiny parts under a low-power stereo microscope, it is refreshing to watch someone working with items that are easily big enough to see clearly without visual aids... Keep up the good work - I'm one of your many viewers hoping to eventually see chips being made on the planer.
Keith … just wanted you to know i started watched your videos bc my boyfriend watches these all the time, and you’ve become my new favorite person to watch on UA-cam. I don’t know ANYTHING about machining (learning from my bf though as he is in college getting a degree in machining) but Ive learned a lot watching your videos. I appreciate how you explain everything so well! I don’t normally comment on UA-cam videos but love watching you enough I needed to say thanks from a clueless female that doesn’t know much more about tools other than what a hammer and screwdriver look like! Haha. Keep them coming!
Another reason the new one didn't start at first was, it's left hand threads and you were turning it to the right. I'll bet you were hoping nobody noticed that.
i wish you cut the old part up to see what is wrong with it
so you know whats wrong if you ever see this problem again
A Kurt vice is on my bucket list. Now I know I can overhaul one if I find one in my price range that isn't in the best condition. Thanks for sharing.
If I recall correctly, the Kurt instructions are to place the vice into a hydraulic press and load the base onto the fixed jaw and only then insert the cap-screws and tighten them to the specified torque. Without this simple procedure you potentially sacrifice squareness of the fixed jaw because only torquing the screws without the load the press provides, is not sufficient to bring the mating surfaces of the base and fixed jaw together to meet design squareness specs. Fun video anyway...
I was kinda hoping you would open the vastingbup and see exactly what the problem was/is. Be nice to know just for future reference.
Me too. Since there wasn't anything to do with it, could have cut it open.
Would have been interesting if you had split the frozen part to see what happened to it
Thanks, interesting to see how a Kurt works.
Very informative. You have given me the courage to tackle repairs to my vice.
Looks like we’re getting close to another lead hammer head casting video. It’s starting to look a little beat up. 😁
Don't force it - use a bigger hammer.
I've been looking for a mold in the Netherlands but they are non existent here.
Shipping from the US makes it far to expensive.
@@samuraidriver4x4 very easy to make a simple lead hammer mold. Just drill a hole for the handle in a pipe. Then split the pipe in half, and weld a hinge on it. Lead is very forgiving with casting, and easy to clean up the flashing.
Wow! I can’t believe how many people are busting Keith’s balls on this repair,, didn’t find the problem with screw, didn’t paint it,, didn’t completely surface grind every surface,,, didn’t replace the wipers,,, didn’t get it on the surface plate and measure every surface with dial indicator,,
Thanks Keith good job!
Love to see you turn something junked back into full function! The grace notes are nice, but not required.
Love to have seen an autopsy on the non-functioning element.
Nice job Keith, good to see it is going back to work and not the scrapyard
If you’re taking votes, mine is like a lot of others, open her up in as less destructive way you can and see what is wrong with it. Can it be saved for a spare?
Like the video but I was so hoping that you would mill open the old part to see what was wrong. Possibly in way that would be salvageable.
This is Keith being left to his own de-vices
Go to your room ;)
Har-har-di-har-har
Seeing the replacement part, I would have been inclined to mill the blind end off the old part to have a look inside and see if it was saveable witha deep cleaning .. probably just a serious buildup of chips/corrosion that has locked onto the threaded rod.
Thanks for sharing! 🇨🇦
I have rebuilt so many of those at S & W.
Unfortunate that you couldn't get that moving jaw assembly apart, it'd be interesting to see what the failure was.
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.
I know its too late but I was hoping to see inside that part to see what had caused that, just like others in the comments. However I understand it would be a waste of precious time, just curiosity. Nice to see that vice back in action in any event. Thanks Keith!
If been in shops all my life. Grandpa was a millwright,daddy an auto mech and me a heavy mech. And the rust that happens on vices always made me chuckle a bit. There covered in oil and grease yet they still rust. Now machinists stuff I under stand some are bathed in water soluble oil or the such. You don’t want a socketed ball Allen I’ve snapped the balls off many times even the big ones just buy a u jointed socket adapter
Very informative.
Parts for the planet! Looking forward … . Thanks for the video.
Nice work Keith. I would have been interested to see what was wrong with the old Acme screw and nut assembly.
????? Guy has a machine shop, but can't fix his own vise?
Would be nice to see a cut away or milled out of the old casting to see what the problem really is.
I noticed you didn't put any grease underneath the fixed jaw, wouldn't have been prudent to do so, in case one has to restore this vise in the future?
I'm just here to see inside a Kurt!
I would put money on the nut was broken inside. Great call and thanks for sharing!!
So refreshing to see something actually repaired/repairable - in this throw away society …
Nice work Keith
Cut the old one open
That lead-faced hammer that you were using looks like it is desperately in need of restoration.
Good one Keith. Thank you
We had this problem normally after it was doused in coolant frkm cnc mills and then it sat for a time. There a bear when they do thism i have found a ton of spray lubricant on the screw and just work it back and forth and bajillian time. Not a kajill iou an, thats to many. I think when the coolant sets and dries, it acts as a binder against the already tight tolerance of the screw. That, may be a tiny chip caught in the threads. Just keep working it and tons of oil, shell come free. I have done it to numerous vices.
Kurt vice is about the easiest shop tool to fix and yet one of the most important. You can buy every part for it if needed. $19.00 for a complete rebuild kit on the D-675 just don't over tighten the set screw. Just play with it for the best fit.
Good video Keith!Kurt vices have a special torque process when you’re installing the fixed jaw of the Vice.... Just did a restore on my Kurt D 60 , I did a thrust bearing repair, purchase parts from Kurt and asked for a new decals, they sent the new decals free, really good vices , I bought mine for $25 Plus $14 for kit. Love your videos on that old stuff. I got a question on how did they re-sharpen their end mill cutters,Back in the old days before they invented the tool cutter grinders?
Keith that old movable jaw and acme thread shaft could have cost more than the replacement parts to repair, so the choice you made was the right one.
Interesting video getting that old vice back to working. What were the 2 seals that seemed to be left over? Spares.
Standard rebuild/repair kit. You'd put them in the nut when stripping down, cleaning, and rebuilding.
Since he bought a new nut they are just extra.
But Kurt doesn't sell a kit with just the o-rings, bearing, and washer. Easier to just throw the standard kit in.
Same with the nut. The part alone includes new seals.
Not worth the time to remove them from the combo or have a version w/o them.
See the same with cars. Several parts include gaskets to install them. And a gasket set included that same gasket. So if doing a full rebuild and replacing things like oil pump, water pump, thermostat, etc. you end up with duplicate gaskets in the full gasket set.
@@TEDodd Thank you.
Great video Keith, keep'um coming.
Run the old screw/nut through a band saw to see what caused the failure
Thanks for sharing!
Since the screw is now junk, how about cutting the end off it, and driving it out in the opposite direction?
Keith, I'm astonished about the price of the new assembly. This is more than a fair price for this essential and complicated assembly. I know other brands though... But, it's mentioned in the comments before; what was the problem of the old one? A chip caught in there somewhere? A real repair, no doubt, but what went wrong?.. Thank you Keith!
Thanks for the vid Keith, could you have cut the end of the spindle up to the threads, cut a screw driver slot in it and drive it out the other end, would have been interesting to see what the problem was.
Jean, it appears Mr. Rust and his companion MS Neglect were the problem with the vice. Was this acquired at a yard sale?
We need the autopsy report! My money's on chips blown into the threads.
I am glad to have the opportunity to watch you take that apart so I know how myself. Thanks for the video. Like some of the other guys said it would be interesting to see what is wrong with that screw.
Thanks for the video👍👍👍
Why do I like watching babbitt being poured so much?
Ok, reading the comments, it's likely there's a future video of opening the faulty vise part. I'm also curious...
Never encountered teflon grease , saw teflon sheet used in high wear points in conveyors . in our resistance welding applications there were copper shafts turning in (bronze ) bushings that were lubed with a grease that had silver in it .
The silver was probably for electrical conductivity.
@@danielkruger4305 The shaft to bushing conducted about 10,000 amps , so yes the silver helped to reduce the erosion of the joint .
Should that retaining set screw really be tight? Won't that defeat the ability of the half-ball to hold the jaw down independent of the parallelism of the leadscrew?
Had to learn how to properly preload rear set screw on a cheap Chinesium vise copy. Also on this Kurt the short locking set screw lock behind the long one was missing.
The old nut and shaft can you cut the shaft and thread it out the other direction just so you could take a peak and the threads
Hiya Keith
Might want to put round stock (diameter 2x jaw height) in the jaws. Then attach DTI mag base to fixed jaw and drop plunger on top moving jaw. Check for moving jaw up lift. Fifty foot-pounds of torque on the screw is the max. Back up the screw and measure the inch-pounds it takes to move it. Insert half-ball preload screw and remove back-lash until inch pounds required to turn the screw starts to rise. Also, don't forget to apply teflon grease on the flat side of the half-ball as well. I even milled the as-cast surface of the wedge hook to enhance wedging action (with grease on that hook/half-ball surface).
Interesting if he could get the old part taken apart & figure out the problem with it.
I think they use standard threads, not acme. I remember reading that somewhere. I would just lop off the end of the cast iron to see if metal comes out of the nut. I'll bet the threads are chewed up like you said and there are all these curly kews in there.
good repair.
Keith says something is "aggravating" that would translate as tools would be flyin' in my shop... I was hoping you might have cut the old nut in half so we could see what the damage was.
I would've liked to see a send off of the old screw like the Terminator in T2: Judgement Day.
The screw was bottomed out in the nut when you got it, probably mushroomed or bent the end of the screw. The rust coming out of there it was gone or soon to be anyway.
You cannot get that part for an imported imitation Kurt. What a bargain.
For that price you just buy two compete import vices. That's a bargain.
BTW, after having to repair your Kurt, tell us again how a Kurt is so much better ?
Had to totally remachine the cheap Grizzly hook-nut assembly on my #2 vise.
@@davesmith9325 the people that built it spend money with you if you have any income from the USA. But then you might only be a consumer and not a producer.
13:25 - 14:10 A classic mistake Keith - thanks for the laugh !
The L.H. thread gag!
@@t.d.mich.7064 ;)
I caught that too
Sure makes me wish I had a surface grinder..:)
You gotta cut that part open and show us what went wrong inside. 🤘🏻😁🤘🏻
don´t know why because i´m not a machinist neither by profession, experience or education just doin machining as it makes sence and it doesent sound as if anything is about to break.
but when i assemble stuff i repair i usualy put some grease on every thread i could find no matter if it´s supposed to move or not because due to experience if anything is gonna be rusted stuck when u for any reason have to dissassemble it it´s gonna be the threads of ever nut n bolt unless u give the threads some kind of rust protection when assembling it the first time.
but seing you not having any kind of grease, anti snease, whatever to protect the threads of the bolts for the jaws realy gave me bad feeling inside...
might be wrong in my thinkin here but thats atleast how i´ve so far had best success to not have to struggle with rusted bolts a secont time if something needed a repair again some years later.
Righty tighty lefty loosey.... except when twisting acme treaded rod into kurt vise... lol. We.all have done that mistake once or twice...
Right, Keith acted like it was a different issue. Lol. But yeah, we've all been there done that on the ol left hand thread. Not many people caught he was turning it the wrong way.
OIL IT!
Its a burr stuck in track. Fill with oil, back n forth on track till it makes a way out .Dont throw it out its a xmass present .get 3 boot brushes.
Throw vice on ground. Bolt in brushes.
Old fashion boot cleaner.
I need to paint my D688.I think,unless they have a broken base casting,most any Kurt is worth repairing
I am cheated out of knowing what the problem was. I hope you didn't charge your friend after all of the generosity people have shown you.
Put in Evaporust for a while. I have had success on my mill freeing up frozen parts.
Evaporust? Did you bother to watch the video?
@@paulcopeland9035 Yes, I did. More for someone else trying to free up a part.
I am disappointed you didn’t put the old screw in the big Wilton and go to town on it! We need an autopsy on the old part!
didnt even wire brush the old bolts clean for your "friend". If he cuts corners on the job he is doing for you im sure you will tell us about it. Right Abom78?
The bolts would survive evaporust too.
when someone says' "Oh my word" you know you got a problem!
Why so skimpy on the application of the grease? Just a touch? Maybe I'm wrong but at the minimum I would of put a light coating on all the moving parts not just a touch.
Tell me someone - how is the nut that captures the long screw (the one that seized) incorporated in the slide casting? How did it get in there? Was it in the casting. Perhaps there is no nut and the casting is reamed out and tapped to accept the long screw. Help.
That half-ball just need to not fall out, I think I've read on Kurt maintenance documents that you're supposed to back off that set screw a smidge (1/8 turn or so) to allow that moving jaw to pivot easier.
But awesome job Kieth! Sweet video!
Interesting how they construct their vises. But I have to be honest, it’s pretty crappy you didn’t paint the thing up. After EvapoRust it’d take just a few minutes to do an extra good job for a friend. Some masking tape and blue paint, it’d be quick work.
After all, he is supposed to be your friend!
A quick coat of paint would have went great with the new painted parts
Thank you I wish we could find vises like those in Australia lol
vertex vice, just as good for a lot less
Good video, I was hoping you were going to TIG repair the apprentice damage :)
You should cut open the dead one to see why it failed
Would have liked to see what would have happened if you had soaked the old nut/thread assy in evapo rust and applied heat. That might have worked to take it apart.
Would have been a good project for a beginning high school shop class. Why not fix the jaws and bite marks while it's in a fully equipt machine shop?
I've seen this before on a bench vise. The lead screw got stretched in the middle due to over tightening. If you could measure the threads, the center to center spacing will be off from what it should be. It doesn't need much to mess everything up. I had to buy a new leadscrew for my vise. How did it get messed up? I needed to press out a wheel bearing for son's car, guess I shouldn't have used a cheater pipe..
Employees that sneek cheaters onto vise screws, and chuck screws are notorious for causing that type of damage. If caught, sweeping the parking lot in the hot sun is appropriate. Now we proudly sing the A-hole song.
Like someone else said, modify the old part by cutting it off to be like the new part. . Could be doable to get the screw out that way, and maybe there is a fix for the jam?
I don't know how you couldn't, didn't, wouldn't, put some paint on that after you had it cleaned up. I would have, just to let anyone know that some time was put into it. If it was for a friend I would have done even more. It most often pays back, if your friends are really friends.
When is Mrs R gonna pop in and say Hi to the folks 😂👍
The only other option probably would have been to cut the front off the screw and threaded it out the other way. Then a new screw could have been fitted.
I noticed the key was not installed on the bottom, he must be traming that vise in everey time he uses it. Keep on smiling.
Hey Keith, I've got the older version of that Stanley utility knife and I absolutely love it. They all seem to be discontinued and I am looking for spares to keep around. Would you have any leads on where to buy one?
The Stanley folding locking knife with replaceable utility blade is nice. You can probably find used ones on eBay. There are several other manufacturers that make the same type. BUT I much prefer the Gerber EAB (Exchange-a-Blade) knives instead. All the same features but smaller, thinner, lighter and fit much better in a pants pocket. My $0.02.