Thank you!!! Had the exact same problem getting the rod to thread into the nut all the way on a rusted old D50. Used your technique to dremel the end of the threads just a tad and BOOM! Went right through and pushed out the goober that was blocking it. Probably a tiny walnut piece from the blast cabinet. Thanks a bunch!
Excellent video. I must be the week for Kurt vice problems, Keith Rucker had a similar problem with a stuck vice, yours ended up better, it cost him $141.00 for a rebuild kit from Kurt. Great job, Thanks for sharing and stay safe.
Build Something Cool thanks man! Me neither! I kept expecting the threads to pop and things to get easier. I still don’t know why it fought me all the way to the end like that....
So I'm obviously a few yrs late on this video. I've gotten into picking up these older Kurt and clone vices (The cheaper the better) And rebuilding them also and flipping them. So I've found that nearly all these ball screw (Kurt and Clones) are all the same thread size and pitch. And found a tap to run into the threads in what this guy is calling the "Thread Box" Kurt calls this part "Nut and screw assembly" And buy having this tap, 9 out of 10 times it will save all these parts. As long as you didn't destroy them getting them apart. Patience and lots of Kroil or my favorite "CRC Knock'er Loose" The stuff isn't cheap, And I ONLY use it on parts as a last resort before heat (because of the $19.00 a can cost) But if its on a part that you do not want to apply lots of heat to. Then this is what you want, because it does it work. Unfortunately they (Kurt) are no longer selling these screw and nut replacement kits for the D-60 vices. Why?? Who knows, Probably because they are trying to sell more new and more expensive models today. However,,,,,,,, if you look at some of the clone parts. There the same part. And I can't find a difference (even with a micrometer) Between them. But you have to find the right clone parts that will fit your D-60 😉. Yes, there out there, Just look around. And the McMaster Carr replacement bearing and thrust washer kits measure the EXACT same sizes as do the Kurt OEM kits, BTW. And since I live 12 minutes from the McMaster Carr Warehouse here in NE Ohio. I get all my Kurt parts from them and no Shipping cost and there always in stock. Including jaws. OEM handles come from them also, And the Speed Handles i use come from Gray Ledge CNC off ebay. They can custom make and coat anything aluminum for you that you want or need.
Sandpaper on a surface plate is a very good way of improving the surface finish of a flat face, without changing the geometry by any meaningful degree.
@Summit X To start, I am a machinist and I work in a precision manufacturing industry. Thanks for the reply btw, I have added it to the list of technical things to make a video about :). The vice cost him $50 which is brilliant even if it is out by 50 µm. The restoration could have been improved in my (and I suspect your) opinions by including measurement and testing, before and after. The amount of material removed on the surface plate seemed a bit excessive, but I cant tell the grade of sandpaper so it could be as little of 10 µm of steel. I certainly would have covered the whole surface plate in sandpaper so as to avoid changing the geometry of the granite in the process. As for not using soft jaw covers for holding the vice jaws: that was definitely an oversight. Hopefully the Kurt jaws are hard enough to resist the rough treatment.
@@ChristophPech Looking at the tenor of his reply, I would say he meant to type either .001-.002 inches or 1-2 thousandths of an inch. In the heat of the moment he lost track and combined them, but in his head he saw what he meant. This is why successful writers use editors.
If you’re working around machinery, especially a lathe, please cut off the drawstrings on your hoodie. I’m not a safety sally but this is one item that needs absolute diligence.
I just wanted to thank you for pointing this out. I’m just a hobbyist machinist, and wear hoodies while working constantly... the danger of that never occurred to me. I’ll be removing the drawstrings from all of my hoodies tonight! 👍🏻
Nice job on the vise, I love to restore and paint my machines and tools. One tip on the vise I did was to use a 6 inch wheel and broached a 1/2 drive 3/4 socket into it to use as a speed handle. Works great for me.
Great restoration young man. And what great methodolgy behind your work, you kept all the originality of the vice by not polishing the cast surfaces and then putting dog shit (automotive) filler all over it to make it look super smooth. Top marks!
Nice job. The only thing I would have done it differently is; using feeler gauges identify the thread pitch. Then use an actual tap to clean up the female threads.
I loved your work restoring this vice! One question though..Since you already have a lathe, why did you risk damaging the lead screw instead of making a dedicated acme tap?
I'm guessing ...he's a self taught machinist. I mean, these days you can do that fairly quickly since we have the internet but it requires dedication like anything else.
I wondered the same thing! I'm a self taught machinist, but I can cut acme well enough. Heck you even have the original in good condition right there to check against. I guess if you really do a good job deburring that relief cut, its impact will be almost nil. It's still a stress riser and a interruption in a load bearing thread.
Never put grease in your blast cabinet, it will not help paint stick to your parts but one time. Every time after that you're just accumulating & spreading the grease. At least clean dirty parts with gas or diesel. Then maybe even rinse that off with soap & water & dry off before blasting. Just my 2¢. I won't get into accumulated backlash... Sweet deal though.
I have just purchased the same vice for £40 in the UK. My thread has a groove in it so it must have been cut just like yours to clean the rust out. I also replaced the jaws and had to smooth the ways off with a #1200 grit diamond stone which was flat as it was going to cost £160 to get it ground. It worked well until i get a surface grinder one day. Re painted like yours in blue. What font is the KURT logo? My vice had holes in the fixed jaw which i filled with a bolt then welded and milled it flat. It looks and works like new again.
Great job using what you have to bring the vise back to life. I hate to see people scrap things that can work again. I always thought the ammonia in Windex was bad for steel. Yet you use it with no noticeable ill effects. Have you been using it for a long time?
loveminis thank you! The windex thing is actually a tip I picked up from knife making. It’s always worked well for me and I have never had an issue. I actually opt for the ammonia in the windex...
NICE JOB, Wow great Kurt vise. I have a 5" Kurt Angle lock, it's hard for me to find new jaws that are in my price range. I did buy a set they cost about $80.00. But they sure work nice. Thanks for sharing. M.K.S.
But did you measure to see is there's any changes when you clamp the parts down? I guess if you're not making parts for customers, which that have to be +/- .005" or better it's not that big of a deal but If I had a Kurt, I would definitely want to check how close it is to a new one. I'd run an indicator along everything that counts, anyway.
Just watched this. Yeah, hopefully you are learning. Just about everything you did was wrong. Doesn’t matter what you paid for it. That was a valuable vise that could have been restored and gained value. Here are some highlights: Surely there was a chunk of metal in the female threads. I would have chased them with a right angle pick to see if I could find it. Making the screw into a tap and forcing it with an impact gun just made that screw sloppier for sure. Wrong thing to do. You can’t flatten a ground surface on a flat surface. That whole sandpaper on granite doesn’t do what people think it does. If you don’t know how to use your grinder, at least learn to stone surfaces. I would have stoned the base, cleaned it, then put it on the surface plate and inspected the top surface with a test indicator. Maybe could have just stoned the top surface. Just about everything you did up to removing the badge removed value from that tool. The fact that at the end of the video, you basically admitted that, makes me want to never watch anything you produce again. I would have preferred if you had discussed what you thought you did wrong so that you could help others learn.
There is a special tape from Tesa (no. 4434) which is called "Elefantenhaut" (elephants skin) in Germany which is specially made to be sand blasting resistant.
Nice job mate, the “proper” way to fix that thread would have been to chase it with a tap, but then again that tap would have cost a lot more than the vise, you just have more guts than me, I wouldn’t have dared to make that screw “self-tapping” :D
i went to order the little 4" cheapest vise Kurt make, delivered to my door in South Australia is over $2000 Aussie dollars yet you can buy two at a meet for $25
Hi Sir thanks for best clip but my issue is 4 bolt holes 1/2-13 thread were stripped I could not use the bolts to tight the jaws so could you help me any idea to fix it thread on vise thank you so much.
I really wish you'd watched some other videos on the restoration of one of these by more experienced machinists. You have a working vice now, but in no way is it at the level of precision it would have been if you'd taken a bit more time with it. These are supposed to be what you use when you need to hold parts you're machining to tolerances measured in tenths of thousands. If this can hold a few thousanths now you're lucky. You could probably go back and redo that in the future if you wanted and at the least it's not going to rust again. Now the bad news. You probably now have a small granite countertop instead of a surface plate. Clean it off, and check it with a test indicator, but I'll be very surprised if it doesn't have scratches and gouges all over the place after that. I understand you may not need the level of tolerances these tools can provide at their best, but that doesn't mean they shouldn't be maintained in a way that they still could.
Came out very nice but a question.. Why didn't you try the lath to clear out the obstruction, or at least loosen it w/o touching the surface of the thread. I think treating the poor surface plate like that is gona make it go back to being a stone lol.
Omg poor surface plate :/ Surface grinder is actually pretty easy to use if you have some practice in machining. Also no hand-scraping, no post-check on the surface plate to see how the kurt actually deviates from flat and parallel + perpendicular on the jaws... nope I didn't like this restoration.. very "scrappy" from a point of a machinist
But, on the other hand, using wet and dry on the surface plate, done carefully, can give quite a nice flat surface. It all depends on the wrist action ...... and using a figure of eight motion - back and forward WILL put a curve into the surface as reported below. BobUK.
You're playing at it! Ok for $25 there's not much to lose, but for other folks what was needed was a very expeniseve matching acme tap. Costs far more than what was paid for the vise. Or vice where I live. BobUK.
Well done!! These clowns making negative comments forget that there is a learning curve. And yes regarding loose clothing around machinery please be mindful. I am old now and cringe every time I remember an incident that happened to me. I could have died.
Nice job, I did the same thing with an old Kurt vise. You should get the rebuild kit from Kurt it comes with a plug for the end of threaded block to keep chips out.
Summit X and he couldn’t even take five minutes to put the stickers on straight it’s just one of those things you wish you could reach in to your computer and shake them and say “wake up”
Also, it's not the best idea to clean a lathe with an air gun, tempting though it is. It tends to blow chips into places you don't want them, like inside the carriage gearbox. BobUK.
i like the loud retch at 9:15 really adds to the experience
I like precision surfaces turned convex
You deserve more sand paper
Thank you!!! Had the exact same problem getting the rod to thread into the nut all the way on a rusted old D50. Used your technique to dremel the end of the threads just a tad and BOOM! Went right through and pushed out the goober that was blocking it. Probably a tiny walnut piece from the blast cabinet. Thanks a bunch!
Awesome! Love to hear that!!!
Excellent video. I must be the week for Kurt vice problems, Keith Rucker had a similar problem with a stuck vice, yours ended up better, it cost him $141.00 for a rebuild kit from Kurt. Great job, Thanks for sharing and stay safe.
I saw that same video that Keith did, I wonder why he didn't try the relief-cut on the ACME tread...he could have done that for nothing.
Nice work. I take it that you do not rely on the granite plate for any real precission work...
Nice job. I don't think I have ever seen threads that were that tuff to clean out.
Build Something Cool thanks man! Me neither! I kept expecting the threads to pop and things to get easier. I still don’t know why it fought me all the way to the end like that....
Thanks for the video! My old D-60 just did the same thing and now I have some hope of fixing it!
So I'm obviously a few yrs late on this video. I've gotten into picking up these older Kurt and clone vices (The cheaper the better) And rebuilding them also and flipping them. So I've found that nearly all these ball screw (Kurt and Clones) are all the same thread size and pitch. And found a tap to run into the threads in what this guy is calling the "Thread Box" Kurt calls this part "Nut and screw assembly" And buy having this tap, 9 out of 10 times it will save all these parts. As long as you didn't destroy them getting them apart. Patience and lots of Kroil or my favorite "CRC Knock'er Loose" The stuff isn't cheap, And I ONLY use it on parts as a last resort before heat (because of the $19.00 a can cost) But if its on a part that you do not want to apply lots of heat to. Then this is what you want, because it does it work.
Unfortunately they (Kurt) are no longer selling these screw and nut replacement kits for the D-60 vices. Why?? Who knows, Probably because they are trying to sell more new and more expensive models today. However,,,,,,,, if you look at some of the clone parts. There the same part. And I can't find a difference (even with a micrometer) Between them. But you have to find the right clone parts that will fit your D-60 😉. Yes, there out there, Just look around. And the McMaster Carr replacement bearing and thrust washer kits measure the EXACT same sizes as do the Kurt OEM kits, BTW. And since I live 12 minutes from the McMaster Carr Warehouse here in NE Ohio. I get all my Kurt parts from them and no Shipping cost and there always in stock. Including jaws. OEM handles come from them also, And the Speed Handles i use come from Gray Ledge CNC off ebay. They can custom make and coat anything aluminum for you that you want or need.
If it ain't broke don't fix it. The wisest quote of mechanics ,machinest,tool makers everywhere!
I didn't want to damage the reference surfaces with the surface grinder, so I completely destroyed them with sandpaper!
Sandpaper on a surface plate is a very good way of improving the surface finish of a flat face, without changing the geometry by any meaningful degree.
@Summit X To start, I am a machinist and I work in a precision manufacturing industry. Thanks for the reply btw, I have added it to the list of technical things to make a video about :). The vice cost him $50 which is brilliant even if it is out by 50 µm. The restoration could have been improved in my (and I suspect your) opinions by including measurement and testing, before and after.
The amount of material removed on the surface plate seemed a bit excessive, but I cant tell the grade of sandpaper so it could be as little of 10 µm of steel. I certainly would have covered the whole surface plate in sandpaper so as to avoid changing the geometry of the granite in the process.
As for not using soft jaw covers for holding the vice jaws: that was definitely an oversight. Hopefully the Kurt jaws are hard enough to resist the rough treatment.
@Summit X you are kidding right?. 001 thousands of an inch is 25 nanometers, not even Stefan Gotteswinter would call this inaccurate.
@@ChristophPech Looking at the tenor of his reply, I would say he meant to type either .001-.002 inches or 1-2 thousandths of an inch. In the heat of the moment he lost track and combined them, but in his head he saw what he meant. This is why successful writers use editors.
If you’re working around machinery, especially a lathe, please cut off the drawstrings on your hoodie. I’m not a safety sally but this is one item that needs absolute diligence.
Motor 2of7 quite right, this was the comment I was going to make. Rest of the video was very good. But safety comes first!
I just wanted to thank you for pointing this out. I’m just a hobbyist machinist, and wear hoodies while working constantly... the danger of that never occurred to me. I’ll be removing the drawstrings from all of my hoodies tonight! 👍🏻
Just being mindful of what you're wearing, and tucking the strings inside the neck also works. But I guess this can get forgotten.
Great comment! A subject frequently overlooked until tears of loved ones later.
Nice recovery from the problems to complete the restoration of this vise to service.
9:16 lovely 😂
ADSlammer had to make sure you made it that far into the video 😬
Nice job on the vise, I love to restore and paint my machines and tools. One tip on the vise I did was to use a 6 inch wheel and broached a 1/2 drive 3/4 socket into it to use as a speed handle. Works great for me.
Great restoration young man. And what great methodolgy behind your work, you kept all the originality of the vice by not polishing the cast surfaces and then putting dog shit (automotive) filler all over it to make it look super smooth. Top marks!
Awesome job man, looks better than new. Always good to put a well made tool back in service.
Nice job. The only thing I would have done it differently is; using feeler gauges identify the thread pitch. Then use an actual tap to clean up the female threads.
I was hoping to get the numbers for the thrust washers and bearing that you purchased. I didnt find it in the list above. Much appreciated. Thanks
Hi Chris, super job on the milling vice and now it's ready for a whole new productive life. Well done. Stay safe and keep up the good work.
That was a great idea on the relief cuts. Saved a ton of work.
Looks good... I would have slotted those mounting holes. Makes life easier. You can still do this simple modification.
Great idea with the thread cleaning cut👍👍👍👍, came out great
Very nice restore!
I loved your work restoring this vice! One question though..Since you already have a lathe, why did you risk damaging the lead screw instead of making a dedicated acme tap?
I'm guessing ...he's a self taught machinist. I mean, these days you can do that fairly quickly since we have the internet but it requires dedication like anything else.
I wondered the same thing! I'm a self taught machinist, but I can cut acme well enough. Heck you even have the original in good condition right there to check against. I guess if you really do a good job deburring that relief cut, its impact will be almost nil. It's still a stress riser and a interruption in a load bearing thread.
Never put grease in your blast cabinet, it will not help paint stick to your parts but one time. Every time after that you're just accumulating & spreading the grease. At least clean dirty parts with gas or diesel. Then maybe even rinse that off with soap & water & dry off before blasting.
Just my 2¢.
I won't get into accumulated backlash...
Sweet deal though.
This is the first time I have seen your video's. I subscribed and look forward to more.. Good job.
Turned out great! Ready for another 30-40years of service .
I have just purchased the same vice for £40 in the UK. My thread has a groove in it so it must have been cut just like yours to clean the rust out. I also replaced the jaws and had to smooth the ways off with a #1200 grit diamond stone which was flat as it was going to cost £160 to get it ground. It worked well until i get a surface grinder one day. Re painted like yours in blue. What font is the KURT logo? My vice had holes in the fixed jaw which i filled with a bolt then welded and milled it flat. It looks and works like new again.
the kurt stickers impressed me!
Find a reverse thread bolt to match, then cut flutes in it like a tap. Run it back and forth to clean threads.
Very nice restoration!
Great job using what you have to bring the vise back to life. I hate to see people scrap things that can work again. I always thought the ammonia in Windex was bad for steel. Yet you use it with no noticeable ill effects. Have you been using it for a long time?
loveminis thank you! The windex thing is actually a tip I picked up from knife making. It’s always worked well for me and I have never had an issue. I actually opt for the ammonia in the windex...
NICE JOB, Wow great Kurt vise. I have a 5" Kurt Angle lock, it's hard for me to find new jaws that are in my price range. I did buy a set they cost about $80.00. But they sure work nice. Thanks for sharing. M.K.S.
You beat that granite plate like you hate it. I cringed every time you slid iron across it unprotected. Blasphemy!
Obviously he is not too concerned with chasing tenths...
But did you measure to see is there's any changes when you clamp the parts down? I guess if you're not making parts for customers, which that have to be +/- .005" or better it's not that big of a deal but If I had a Kurt, I would definitely want to check how close it is to a new one. I'd run an indicator along everything that counts, anyway.
Just watched this. Yeah, hopefully you are learning. Just about everything you did was wrong. Doesn’t matter what you paid for it. That was a valuable vise that could have been restored and gained value. Here are some highlights:
Surely there was a chunk of metal in the female threads. I would have chased them with a right angle pick to see if I could find it. Making the screw into a tap and forcing it with an impact gun just made that screw sloppier for sure. Wrong thing to do.
You can’t flatten a ground surface on a flat surface. That whole sandpaper on granite doesn’t do what people think it does. If you don’t know how to use your grinder, at least learn to stone surfaces. I would have stoned the base, cleaned it, then put it on the surface plate and inspected the top surface with a test indicator. Maybe could have just stoned the top surface.
Just about everything you did up to removing the badge removed value from that tool. The fact that at the end of the video, you basically admitted that, makes me want to never watch anything you produce again. I would have preferred if you had discussed what you thought you did wrong so that you could help others learn.
Wow! What a beautiful vice and video!!!
I would of done the same thing to the lead screw! I’ve done the same trick to other things and works just fine! Nicely done dude 👊🏽
It worked perfectly, therefore it was the right thing to do.
$25 for a clone would have been a decent deal, but for both??? Well done!
Great find! BTW, the piece on a vise with female threads for the lead screw is called the "nut." So, "screw box" = "nut."
Awesome 👍👍
There is a special tape from Tesa (no. 4434) which is called "Elefantenhaut" (elephants skin) in Germany which is specially made to be sand blasting resistant.
What are you doing with that surface plate 😮
Nice job mate, the “proper” way to fix that thread would have been to chase it with a tap, but then again that tap would have cost a lot more than the vise, you just have more guts than me, I wouldn’t have dared to make that screw “self-tapping” :D
Do they make acme thread tap chasers?
You can make one with the lathe and some drill rod, you could probably get away with soft steel for cast iron.
Isn’t an ACME thread square?
Turned out very nice, I have a silhouette vinyl cutter and I've always used the sticky Mat, do you have any problems not using the mat??
i went to order the little 4" cheapest vise Kurt make, delivered to my door in South Australia is over $2000 Aussie dollars yet you can buy two at a meet for $25
Nice job.
Just a thought, but I bet the threads inside were chowdered from someone putting a snipe on the handle.
My thoughts exactly, probably combined with a bit of rust and other crap.
you did what you had to do and it worked that's the bottom line. good job I wish I could pick up one like that over here I'm looking for one..
Nice job
The silhuett cameo is aswome! I use one pretty often
Great job, not the way that I would do it, but then I ain't you. The vice should function quite well, that is all that matters
Awesome! Nice work!
Nice work again!
You mentioned you got this at a auction where can I find these auctions are they on line or something else
excellent job
Nicely done
Hi Sir thanks for best clip but my issue is 4 bolt holes 1/2-13 thread were stripped I could not use the bolts to tight the jaws so could you help me any idea to fix it thread on vise thank you so much.
Very nice restoration.
Looks good.
I as surprised to find that the Kurt Company was founded in 1959.
Nice work.
I really wish you'd watched some other videos on the restoration of one of these by more experienced machinists. You have a working vice now, but in no way is it at the level of precision it would have been if you'd taken a bit more time with it. These are supposed to be what you use when you need to hold parts you're machining to tolerances measured in tenths of thousands. If this can hold a few thousanths now you're lucky. You could probably go back and redo that in the future if you wanted and at the least it's not going to rust again. Now the bad news. You probably now have a small granite countertop instead of a surface plate. Clean it off, and check it with a test indicator, but I'll be very surprised if it doesn't have scratches and gouges all over the place after that. I understand you may not need the level of tolerances these tools can provide at their best, but that doesn't mean they shouldn't be maintained in a way that they still could.
Check out this to see the precision that these vices could have ua-cam.com/video/l5m-kA_Oq_4/v-deo.html
Came out very nice but a question.. Why didn't you try the lath to clear out the obstruction, or at least loosen it w/o touching the surface of the thread.
I think treating the poor surface plate like that is gona make it go back to being a stone lol.
No grease on bearings?
Good job.
Cool restore. I am a little baffled that you have a lathe and chose to brute force the threads.
great job, sir! Thank you for another informative video.
Hahaha 9:14
good work mr kurt is a goid vice
sweet job
Omg poor surface plate :/ Surface grinder is actually pretty easy to use if you have some practice in machining. Also no hand-scraping, no post-check on the surface plate to see how the kurt actually deviates from flat and parallel + perpendicular on the jaws... nope I didn't like this restoration.. very "scrappy" from a point of a machinist
But, on the other hand, using wet and dry on the surface plate, done carefully, can give quite a nice flat surface. It all depends on the wrist action ...... and using a figure of eight motion - back and forward WILL put a curve into the surface as reported below. BobUK.
Paint in the wrong place? Solvent or stripper.
(9:15) Hey bro u ok? sounded as if u inhaled a Chip or something;) nice restoration, o7 keep up the good work:)
Sweet!
You're playing at it! Ok for $25 there's not much to lose, but for other folks what was needed was a very expeniseve matching acme tap. Costs far more than what was paid for the vise. Or vice where I live. BobUK.
Why not cut a tool with the same thread to clean the inside and not cut the vise screw.
Hey,, if it works for you, at that price, than don't worry with the negative comments,,, I use a Harbor Freight vice. Be proud
5:00 What if you go for antirust solution bath? Just leaving this part overnight.
Well done!! These clowns making negative comments forget that there is a learning curve. And yes regarding loose clothing around machinery please be mindful. I am old now and cringe every time I remember an incident that happened to me. I could have died.
A learning curve. Classes are being held at that shop, shouldn't he have already "learned"? I guess losing a body part will learn 'im.
What was the answer to mystery of the plugged Acme thread hole
Wow great job, it came out awesome
Dude. You look like Tony Romo. . Any chance you're a Cowboy fan? You have good content.
I gotta finish the video but I’m still making you that speed vise handle haha
Nice job, I did the same thing with an old Kurt vise. You should get the rebuild kit from Kurt it comes with a plug for the end of threaded block to keep chips out.
Pretty Nice!
I'm sure you could set the bar lower if you tried
In the future the threads size is 1 1/4-7 left hand
Chris Marino thanks!! I was wondering!
Bearing Part Number??
You could have chasen the thread with a twisted pick and find where the blockage was.
Chasen the threaden!
It would have been nice to run an actual acme tap through the cast iron nut but you could buy shares in the company cheaper
Summit X and he couldn’t even take five minutes to put the stickers on straight it’s just one of those things you wish you could reach in to your computer and shake them and say “wake up”
Great project restoration Chris. Were you in your shop? I didn't see any of your stickers on anything... ;-)
kein wort verstanden aber ein interesantes video weiter so
Hi can you make me two of the kurt stickers. let me know thanks
Butcher... "worked really well" .. why dont you run indicator across and show us how it " worked really well "?
Because he doesn't know precision
Cool👍👍👍👍
I wish you had spent a tiny bit more time making sure the Kurt logo was centered on the background. That one was way low.
Also, it's not the best idea to clean a lathe with an air gun, tempting though it is. It tends to blow chips into places you don't want them, like inside the carriage gearbox. BobUK.