Only really one additional comment of somethings you can add to the vice to make it more useful 1. The unused large screw location on the side of the vice - That is used to fabricate a work-piece stop: Very useful with the DRO on the machine for repeatability 2. If you look under the vice again you will see several slots - They are the same width as your T-slots: You can bolt in a pair of pieces of ground toolsteel - shape a taper on the lower slide and they will be fixed in the T-slot and aligned almost perfectly with the machine bed - That allows you to make notes of the fixed vice location with the DRO so you don't have to clock the vice for every job
Nice restoration! One thing: I didn't see any lube during assembly. IMO, every metal to metal surface should be lubed during assembly, including screws.
You could have skimmed the ways and machined surfaces with your mill, it'd be faster and more accurate. That vice probably is out of square on all axes now.
I think the only reference surface on that type of vice is the removable jaws. When its mounted all he has to do is tram that surface in and lock it down.
Like jordan said, only the fixed jaw of a vice is to be taken as a reference surface. If you tram that in you are done. The only association that needs to be perfect is the angle between the vertical of the fixed jaw and the axis of the spindle which need to be parallel. Then the x axis is trammed in and that's it. No other part if the vice needs to be square to anything.
@@stathisbikos6563 In a way you're right. If the bottom of the vice was true, it's not now. So, anything else he does with it won't matter. It will be out.
@@stathisbikos6563 except if the thing is warped since he sanded the bottom and it's probably not flat anymore and when you mount non flat surface to a falt one, you'll twist it. You can't tram a warp out easily or not at all. Then he'd have to shim that bottom surface and that would ruin the contact surface area and cause other issues with stability etc... so umm...
pro tip: polished stone tiles from a store (like the 3-5cm thick ones) are usually astonishingly flat, much flatter than any piece of particle board could ever be, so those make the perfect surface for sanding something flat on a budget. (sure its not as good as a proper flat stone but still)
Always makes me happy when someone tells me that they are working through all my old videos, so I figured I would let you know I am now doing the same for your channel. Great work, it’s been a fun few days.
Kudos on this project! There are foundry employees, manufacturering personnel, industrial reps, setting up in their graves applauding the product that they manufactured a century ago that sits proudly on your milling table. Beautiful remanufacturing job.
Great video! But tbh...I wouldn't sand those jaws on a piece of MDF like that, especially with such coarse paper. Those are typically ground and you can get the rust off with chemicals, and polish it with a very fine fiber wheel or something.
But then again vice jaws are more or less a consumable item so it's not the end of the world. And since he remembered to alternate sanding directions I would be surprised if its much out of true.
@@oslogutt80 Jaws for a 50 year old vise are not generally available off the shelf, so that means making some. To make some you need some tool steel (not cheap), a mill, a heat treatment oven for hardening and tempering (and the skills to go with that), and a surface grinder (and the skills to go with that). Those jaws were in pretty good condition and just needed cleaning. Now they're not usable for the purpose the vise was made for.
Good job. But it was in great shape, to be honest. Just dirty. Jaws looked almost mint, not really "rough". And it's called cold blue because it's selenium oxide @ room temperature. If you used potassium nitrite you would also have to heat it up, and it would be hot bluing.
@_ David _ Here's a couple: Using a power hand sander w/ abrasive pad on the vise base-machine table interface. Hand dressing the jaws tops and bottoms in a back and forth motion, when he should be making figure-eight strokes.
it's called cold blue because traditional blueing is done by heating the metal to cherry red then quenching in oil, resulting in a black rust protective coating :) cheers from Sverige, love your channel
I 3D printed a hand knob for when I am placing small parts in my vice rather than having to crank around the whole handle. Then I tighten it with the regular handle. The other tin I did was machine a step in the top of each jaw for holding small bars and plates.
When taping the parts, instead of using knife to cut the edges, use sandpaper. When paint stripping, wrap the whole thing in cling film, this way, when you unwrap it..most of the stripped paint will carry over with the film, less & faster clean up.
Beautiful work my man, I would have been fine with way less lol I got a good tip once: try to swap the bearing plate (16:13) out for a needle thrust bearing. That way the screw will go much easier and smoother.
Great job taking it to an automotive finish. I didn’t for my vise restoration (see it on my channel) and mine took forever so I can’t imagine how much footage isn’t in this video. Taking tape off is satisfying!
Just a little tip for the next time you're using filler of some kind. If you've applied the filler, just spray some matt color lacker lightly over it, while it's still wet. So, while sanding you can see all the little bumbs and scratches, that you want to sand down. Makes sanding filler quite a lot easier. Besides that... very nice video!
If I may suggest... more lathe work ... use the end mill to flatten stuff and make screws nice as My Mechanics does...and equally so, perfect things on the lathe. The painted parts came out nice but I think viewers like seeing stuff made new. :) But you're off to a good start. I just think you can make people like it even more.
Looks nice to go with your mill but.....If you plan on using a vise I'd get an angle-loc style. I had to use those old style vises years ago and hated them. The problem is the jaw trys to lift when you tighten it down. Makes it very frustrating trying to get your work tapped down tight on a pair of parallels. Restoring it as a "period" vise to match your mill is fine but in my opinion they serve better as a boat anchor.
WOW, awesome job! I know some people gave you flack in the previous video about the word 'restoration' as opposed to 'cleaning'. Most were probably Americans like me, but who forget that English is not likely your first language. In the US, and from what I can tell in Europe, there is a real difference in PRACTICE between restoring and cleaning of tools and things like milling machines. At the end of the day, you did a great job on both the mill and vise. The vise really was a restoration, to an even higher degree than many who do these things repeatedly. I know such things are often more expensive in Europe compared to the US, but an ultrasonic cleaner would have made getting the old grease and dirt off much easier. I use Simple Green in mine, which is far better for the environment that oil-based degreasers, not to mention less toxic to people. Of course, there is also something very satisfying about doing those things with elbow grease. To get the rust off, check out the videos of your fellow European the Post Apocalyptic Inventor. He shows how electrolysis using a DC power source with high amps works the fastest and deepest. Also better for the environment than harsh chemicals. The fastest, easiest way to remove paint I have seen so far is vapor blasting, which is sand blasting with water included. Again, not cheap, but the parts can be gotten used separately over time and there are several DIY videos on how to convert sand blasters. Again, no chemicals. I wish I lived in a country where the environment is more highly regarded like it is in Norway! Finally, you didn't show a final degreasing of the metal parts prior to using filler and primer, but probably did use something. Isopropyl alcohol is very often used, along with acetone. I like rubbing alcohol because it's cheaper and less toxic. I know you didn't ask for advice, and clearly don't really need any, just thought I would share some ideas for thought and maybe future planning. Again, you did a GREAT job on both, and look forward to seeing what you make in the future!
Forgot to mention that I had a friend in college from Norway. You both have the same optimistic, enthusiastic attitude, and both pronounce 'together' the exact same way. Brings back fond memories!
Nice job. I did one of these a few months ago as well. Love the baby blue, it really pops! You may have done this and just not shown it but a bit of light oil on the sliding faces would be a good idea to help with the smoothness of operation, prevention of wear and prevention of future rusting. As for the body filler that a few people are ripping you for I don't really see an issue. Bridgeport milling machine castings are full of the stuff if you get a bad one. (sorry not seen your restoration on that yet.) Anyway good job, keep the videos coming you just got another subscriber. 👍👍👍
Awesome resto. 2 things though: you should get a wire wheel for the rust inside the jaws, and you should always use grease any time there is metal touching metal!
Great job! Very inspiring. I discovered your channel a couple of weeks ago and i love your videos. One thing that can be improved is the different sound level between moments when you talk and moments of music. I always need to play with the volume :) Keep up!
14:49 Its called cold blue, because its done cold, without boiling. Real bluings are done with a hot bluing methods, including boiling acids and salts. Also in most cases I wont suggest any kind a like diluting when using those solutions.
Another outstanding restoration! You definitely posses the right ingredients for this stuff, patience & persistence. A few things, not criticisms, more quality of life suggestions. Get yourself a brass hammer for persuading things together. A small set of rifling files make life much easier for the intricate & limited access finishing jobs. Make yourself a speed handle for the vice. Once again, great job! :)
I enjoyed your video and really appreciate your efforts and hard work in restoring that vise correctly. It turned out great! One suggestion? The music was really tough to listen to and I ended up muting the video. Just an opinion and I'm not trying to be critical but rather, give you some feedback. Again, you did a great job restoring that vise. Well done!
Damn that looks smooth! Like a 60s sports car. Nice work, did you do any measurements afterwards? Would be interesting to know what the geometry is like after removing all the rust
Нельзя шлифовать рабочие поверхности тисков, теперь это не фрезерные тиски,а металлолом красивый. Чтобы вернуть им точность, необходимо шабрить поверхности с применением поверочных плит и другой точной оснастки
тоже подумал, что станочные тиски превратились в слесарные. а ведь на первых кадрах фрезер, ожидал, что он как минимум на нем "обкатает" и профрезерует все базовые и рабочие плоскости.
Lissopen там скорее всего они калёные и с фрезеровкой будут танцы с бубном, я недавно советские тиски станочные реставрировал, за не имением плоскошлифа и поверочного инструмента, губки шлифовал вручную на стекле с применением воды и листового образива, заусенцы убрал, конечно ни о какой точности и речи не может быть но более менее можно делать не ответственные вещи
What products were used as the primer and filler? Are they just standard auto body products? Also curious on the product to remove the old rust and paint. The end result looks great!
Recently 'discovered' your channel. Great content and skilled restauration. Besides that, also the editing and quality of the video is very high. You deserve much more subscribers! Won't take long before your channel takes a flight... 💪👍
This is awesome! Love the color you chose too! And as for the people worried about the levelness and eveness after he sanded it, there are ways around this, you can adjust the machine to counter whatever is off about the new VICE, so yeah, everybody chill, this guy clearly knows what he is doing. Also, why would anybody ever down-vote this? I'm starting to think that the down-vote button is just a jealousy button. You guys wish you had this dude's shop. If I could add TWO upvotes, i WOULD. Cheers Alex, keep up the awesome work!
He clearly doesn`t or he wouldn´t have sanded precision surfacs on a mdf board. MDF is pressed saw dust that shit is more warped per inch than a banana.
@@excitedbox5705 While you make a great point, the machine he's using can surely be adjusted to make up for any errors. I have no doubts that his milling machine can still get the job done with that vice so long as it's leveled first or the machine is adjusted to make the first passes level.
@@KennyPhases No, that is really not the case. You could spend about 5-10 minutes for every single item you mount in that vise to use an indicator and make sure it is level/square and do that for every time you turn or readjust it but that will take you an extra hour for every item you make on that mill. If you don´t do that your errors multiply very quickly. Even wiping dust off a surface makes a difference in accuracy. By the time you get to the 3rd side the part is unusable for anything but looking pretty. Also keep in mind he is showing other people how to do this and if someone is looking up how to clean up or repair a mill and follows his steps they will destroy their equipment as well. These tools are VERY expensive and run into the hundreds if not thousands of dollars. I feel you have a responsibility to spread accurate information. What he is doing is not as dangerous as working with electricity but imagine someone showing how to put in cabling without circuit breakers. A while ago some 12, 13 year old girls saw a video of how to make popcorn with a rubbing alcohol burner and soda can on youtube and tried to imitate it. 1 died and the other burned over 80% of her body.
@@excitedbox5705 The amount of rubbing he did on these amounts to around a thou at most - The parts you are worried about are largely inconsequential as any new slack is adjusted out by the gibbs of the dovetails, not the machine itself which are the main element other than that the only concern that holds marginal merit is the base of the vice itself The fixation on the idea of "oh its not square" in comments is mostly a sign of people repeating info without context - What he did here is at worst going to change that vice by a thou - for real scale that is 0.025mm or a half a sheet of typical A4 paper He is unlikely to ever need to machine to that resolution which makes the discussion academic only
Lots of people mentioning no grease on reassembly, I have to ask, wouldn’t you want to use oil? Yes grease will be smoother and last longer, but wouldn’t stuff stick to the grease all the time, like dust and debris caused by drilling, shop dust in general too I’m in the process of restoring my grandfather’s vise, it’s all cleaned up, I painted it, it’s drying right now. Soon all I’ll have to do is reassemble. I’m going to put it on top of my packout, so obviously I’m painting it red, I’ll be bolting it to my packout work top Anyway, I’ll be using oil as I don’t mind giving it some maintenance once in a while
What an awesome restoration! Just discovered your channel and subbed. Don’t pay any attention to the ridiculous comments here about your sanding, painting or other techniques you used. It’s your equipment and you took the time to share with us what you did with it and I, for one, am thankful for that. People have nothing better to do then criticize and complain about the hard work and free content that you and other content creators provide. They love to nitpick and find fault with everything you do. I always find it interesting that the ones who complain are the ones who have zero videos to share. What difference does it make that you used Bondo, or sanded the surfaces? It’s your vise, you can do whatever you want to with it. In the end, it is better looking and more functional than when you started. I appreciate the work and the video. Thank you!! 👍🏻😃
The vise just needed a clean (And possibly a paint). Sanding the jaws though stopped it from being a usable machinists vise. Not just for him (current caretaker) but also the next machinist that comes along and ends up with it. That's what people are complaining about. It's actually less functional than when he started. It was a brilliantly filmed and edited piece though, and the vise looks beautiful now - but it's just not as good as it was, with regards being a precise (useful) vise.
Greetings and hallo from Texas. Your patience is admirable and the key to your success. I just found your channel today and watched the Bridgeport and vise restorations. Could you tell more about the cleaner you used on the Bridgeport? It's not available in the US. I recently sold my milling machine due to the cost of moving it 700 miles (over 1100 km). Your videos will help me make the replacement look good. Beautiful job on the vise! Subscribed. Skål.
the hole through the base of the vice is not only there to mount the vice but allso to stick a screwdriver through to loosen those screws you used the extremely short angled screwdriver for
@@achappel there must be a way to get straight access , i doubt that the factory is putting the vices together with handtools , they wouldnt make a profit so they need to be able to get to the screws some way , a hole through the base or a place where the base is narrower seems to be most logical
Just randomly found your channel and can't belive that you only have 12.7k subs?! You're amazing and your sense of detail and creativity is through the roof! Saw you had some Biltema products too so I googled you and found out you're from Norway(?) Your English is on point and I can't hear a bit of Norwegian dialect! I'm from Sweden so it's awsome to see a neighbor :D
Loved the video and the result, it's a really beautiful addition to the mill. I don't mind the music so much, but when you're speaking, I'd rather hear you talking! Either way, you've got a new sub from me, keep up the great work.
Terrific Job. One of the best resto vids I've seen. The only criticism, is that I would like to have seen some of the parts machined rather than sanded. Although, I doubt you will be using the vice to hardcore machining work. Great Job.
Only really one additional comment of somethings you can add to the vice to make it more useful
1. The unused large screw location on the side of the vice - That is used to fabricate a work-piece stop: Very useful with the DRO on the machine for repeatability
2. If you look under the vice again you will see several slots - They are the same width as your T-slots: You can bolt in a pair of pieces of ground toolsteel - shape a taper on the lower slide and they will be fixed in the T-slot and aligned almost perfectly with the machine bed - That allows you to make notes of the fixed vice location with the DRO so you don't have to clock the vice for every job
Nice restoration! One thing: I didn't see any lube during assembly. IMO, every metal to metal surface should be lubed during assembly, including screws.
Jim Ronchetto totally agree. Never put a dry screw in a dry hole
Yes, and, that goes for flesh to flesh surfaces as well.
@@ytwos1 LOL
ytwos1 i gotta be honest wasnt expecting that joke
Ort
M
@@ytwos1 pools
There are very few more satisfying things in life than restoring mechanical components and putting it all back together again! Great job 👏
No Grease during reassembly? I'm Triggered..
Easy there My Mechanics
@@Sgt_Kilborn my very first thought...
You could have skimmed the ways and machined surfaces with your mill, it'd be faster and more accurate. That vice probably is out of square on all axes now.
Im not a machinist, but that is exactly what I was thinking...
I think the only reference surface on that type of vice is the removable jaws. When its mounted all he has to do is tram that surface in and lock it down.
Like jordan said, only the fixed jaw of a vice is to be taken as a reference surface. If you tram that in you are done. The only association that needs to be perfect is the angle between the vertical of the fixed jaw and the axis of the spindle which need to be parallel. Then the x axis is trammed in and that's it. No other part if the vice needs to be square to anything.
@@stathisbikos6563 In a way you're right. If the bottom of the vice was true, it's not now. So, anything else he does with it won't matter. It will be out.
@@stathisbikos6563 except if the thing is warped since he sanded the bottom and it's probably not flat anymore and when you mount non flat surface to a falt one, you'll twist it. You can't tram a warp out easily or not at all. Then he'd have to shim that bottom surface and that would ruin the contact surface area and cause other issues with stability etc... so umm...
9:20 the vice looks unhappy even terrified getting the filler treatment
ryan webb kmHey Siri
I like your videos, but the music was louder than your voice in some parts of ths, like when you were talking about refinishing the machine screws.
pro tip: polished stone tiles from a store (like the 3-5cm thick ones) are usually astonishingly flat, much flatter than any piece of particle board could ever be, so those make the perfect surface for sanding something flat on a budget. (sure its not as good as a proper flat stone but still)
Always makes me happy when someone tells me that they are working through all my old videos, so I figured I would let you know I am now doing the same for your channel. Great work, it’s been a fun few days.
Kudos on this project! There are foundry employees, manufacturering personnel, industrial reps, setting up in their graves applauding the product that they manufactured a century ago that sits proudly on your milling table. Beautiful remanufacturing job.
Nothing better than using a tool or machine that you have restored. Well done.
I love how detailed oriented you are when you do your projects. Awesome job man. Love the videos.
Fantastic job
thanks Giaco ✌️
Both you guys have gotten me really pumped on shop organization recently! Lord knows I need it. Thanks for posting quality vids!
This was so oddly satisfying! I love how much work you put into restoring such a beautiful and useful machine. Such a labor of love!! Great job!!
damn that lathe makes a lot of metal clanking noises, your sure there is enough oil in the gearbox? or are the bearings f*ck*d up?
Very nice result, we have exactly the same one in our videos 🤩
That now has to be the nicest looking vice I've ever seen! Great job and fantastic attention to detail!
Great video! But tbh...I wouldn't sand those jaws on a piece of MDF like that, especially with such coarse paper. Those are typically ground and you can get the rust off with chemicals, and polish it with a very fine fiber wheel or something.
But then again vice jaws are more or less a consumable item so it's not the end of the world. And since he remembered to alternate sanding directions I would be surprised if its much out of true.
Well jaws are the least problem of any vice...since it's replaceble.
@@oslogutt80 Jaws for a 50 year old vise are not generally available off the shelf, so that means making some. To make some you need some tool steel (not cheap), a mill, a heat treatment oven for hardening and tempering (and the skills to go with that), and a surface grinder (and the skills to go with that).
Those jaws were in pretty good condition and just needed cleaning. Now they're not usable for the purpose the vise was made for.
@@oslogutt80 HE didn't replace them, did he?
@@CraigsWorkshop Yes. But he has messed up the whole thing anyway. The moment he started to sand the bottom.
That turned out sharp! That paint/filler job is crazy.
Good job. But it was in great shape, to be honest. Just dirty. Jaws looked almost mint, not really "rough".
And it's called cold blue because it's selenium oxide @ room temperature. If you used potassium nitrite you would also have to heat it up, and it would be hot bluing.
either way he skipped the important part of soaking the parts in oil like he should
the lack of grease used during assemble was a bit concerning.
Among many, many, other faults.
@_ David _ Here's a couple:
Using a power hand sander w/ abrasive pad on the vise base-machine table interface.
Hand dressing the jaws tops and bottoms in a back and forth motion, when he should be making figure-eight strokes.
Maybe he needs to watch more My Mechanics videos???
@@Tsamokie he was doing figure eights
@_ David _ My question is who tf puts body filler on tools that need to withstand abuse???
Discovered this channel pretty much right after deciding to make a custom desk, funny coincidence.
it's called cold blue because traditional blueing is done by heating the metal to cherry red then quenching in oil, resulting in a black rust protective coating :) cheers from Sverige, love your channel
I 3D printed a hand knob for when I am placing small parts in my vice rather than having to crank around the whole handle. Then I tighten it with the regular handle.
The other tin I did was machine a step in the top of each jaw for holding small bars and plates.
Love that restoration. That old clamp is a sexy bit of kit for the shop. So much better than something from Harbor Freight!
When taping the parts, instead of using knife to cut the edges, use sandpaper.
When paint stripping, wrap the whole thing in cling film, this way, when you unwrap it..most of the stripped paint will carry over with the film, less & faster clean up.
Beautiful work my man, I would have been fine with way less lol
I got a good tip once: try to swap the bearing plate (16:13) out for a needle thrust bearing. That way the screw will go much easier and smoother.
Great job taking it to an automotive finish. I didn’t for my vise restoration (see it on my channel) and mine took forever so I can’t imagine how much footage isn’t in this video. Taking tape off is satisfying!
An outstanding job with deepest attention for details. 👏👏👏
It looks more like a miracle than a restoration! 😮
congrats on finding the hardest way to refinish it
Nice to see someone that is not using nitrile cloves all the time.
Looks like a old palmgren vise. Nice job
Instead of vinegar for rust removal try citric acid in some hot water. Works much faster.
you know those patch jobs other restauration youtubers come across? guys like this made em
Just a little tip for the next time you're using filler of some kind. If you've applied the filler, just spray some matt color lacker lightly over it, while it's still wet. So, while sanding you can see all the little bumbs and scratches, that you want to sand down. Makes sanding filler quite a lot easier. Besides that... very nice video!
That thing looks like a new car. Great work, and I can tell you're a perfectionist like myself lol.. Great work bud
The older vice looks way better than today's boxy designs. It's very sleek in appearance.
If I may suggest... more lathe work ... use the end mill to flatten stuff and make screws nice as My Mechanics does...and equally so, perfect things on the lathe. The painted parts came out nice but I think viewers like seeing stuff made new. :)
But you're off to a good start. I just think you can make people like it even more.
Looks nice to go with your mill but.....If you plan on using a vise I'd get an angle-loc style. I had to use those old style vises years ago and hated them.
The problem is the jaw trys to lift when you tighten it down. Makes it very frustrating trying to get your work tapped down tight on a pair of parallels.
Restoring it as a "period" vise to match your mill is fine but in my opinion they serve better as a boat anchor.
WOW, awesome job! I know some people gave you flack in the previous video about the word 'restoration' as opposed to 'cleaning'. Most were probably Americans like me, but who forget that English is not likely your first language. In the US, and from what I can tell in Europe, there is a real difference in PRACTICE between restoring and cleaning of tools and things like milling machines. At the end of the day, you did a great job on both the mill and vise. The vise really was a restoration, to an even higher degree than many who do these things repeatedly. I know such things are often more expensive in Europe compared to the US, but an ultrasonic cleaner would have made getting the old grease and dirt off much easier. I use Simple Green in mine, which is far better for the environment that oil-based degreasers, not to mention less toxic to people. Of course, there is also something very satisfying about doing those things with elbow grease. To get the rust off, check out the videos of your fellow European the Post Apocalyptic Inventor. He shows how electrolysis using a DC power source with high amps works the fastest and deepest. Also better for the environment than harsh chemicals. The fastest, easiest way to remove paint I have seen so far is vapor blasting, which is sand blasting with water included. Again, not cheap, but the parts can be gotten used separately over time and there are several DIY videos on how to convert sand blasters. Again, no chemicals. I wish I lived in a country where the environment is more highly regarded like it is in Norway! Finally, you didn't show a final degreasing of the metal parts prior to using filler and primer, but probably did use something. Isopropyl alcohol is very often used, along with acetone. I like rubbing alcohol because it's cheaper and less toxic. I know you didn't ask for advice, and clearly don't really need any, just thought I would share some ideas for thought and maybe future planning. Again, you did a GREAT job on both, and look forward to seeing what you make in the future!
Forgot to mention that I had a friend in college from Norway. You both have the same optimistic, enthusiastic attitude, and both pronounce 'together' the exact same way. Brings back fond memories!
That vise Is not flat any More... That does not count as restoration... It looks beautiful but is not longer square for decent work...
Nice job. I did one of these a few months ago as well. Love the baby blue, it really pops!
You may have done this and just not shown it but a bit of light oil on the sliding faces would be a good idea to help with the smoothness of operation, prevention of wear and prevention of future rusting.
As for the body filler that a few people are ripping you for I don't really see an issue. Bridgeport milling machine castings are full of the stuff if you get a bad one. (sorry not seen your restoration on that yet.) Anyway good job, keep the videos coming you just got another subscriber. 👍👍👍
loved the choice of music. great restoration
Great video! Thanks for taking your time and showing how you work.
Awesome resto. 2 things though: you should get a wire wheel for the rust inside the jaws, and you should always use grease any time there is metal touching metal!
Awesome Restoration, i cant imagine the pleasure of working with the Brand New Restored Vice
Great job! Very inspiring.
I discovered your channel a couple of weeks ago and i love your videos.
One thing that can be improved is the different sound level between moments when you talk and moments of music. I always need to play with the volume :)
Keep up!
It looks extremely nice! The result is very clean!
Awesome video the difference is definitely in the details you put in.
14:49 Its called cold blue, because its done cold, without boiling. Real bluings are done with a hot bluing methods, including boiling acids and salts. Also in most cases I wont suggest any kind a like diluting when using those solutions.
One of my subscribers told me to check out this video... Glad he did! Awesome job! Thanks!
man, that's the best vise restoration video I've ever seen.
Easy to watch the whole video without skipping 👌👌
Another outstanding restoration! You definitely posses the right ingredients for this stuff, patience & persistence. A few things, not criticisms, more quality of life suggestions. Get yourself a brass hammer for persuading things together. A small set of rifling files make life much easier for the intricate & limited access finishing jobs. Make yourself a speed handle for the vice. Once again, great job! :)
11:15 when a vice has a better paint job than my car.
I enjoyed your video and really appreciate your efforts and hard work in restoring that vise correctly. It turned out great! One suggestion? The music was really tough to listen to and I ended up muting the video. Just an opinion and I'm not trying to be critical but rather, give you some feedback. Again, you did a great job restoring that vise. Well done!
I 've had the same thought.
Damn that looks smooth! Like a 60s sports car. Nice work, did you do any measurements afterwards? Would be interesting to know what the geometry is like after removing all the rust
Thanks Phil :) no I haven't measured anything yet. I'll probably have to eventually, if for nothing else than to satisfy my curiosity :P
Nice work! Super impressive. Screw the haters.
You're quite talented and have a nice breadth of skills.
Found your channel last weekend and watched a whole bunch of your videos since then. Your awesome. Love the channel.
Нельзя шлифовать рабочие поверхности тисков, теперь это не фрезерные тиски,а металлолом красивый. Чтобы вернуть им точность, необходимо шабрить поверхности с применением поверочных плит и другой точной оснастки
тоже подумал, что станочные тиски превратились в слесарные. а ведь на первых кадрах фрезер, ожидал, что он как минимум на нем "обкатает" и профрезерует все базовые и рабочие плоскости.
Lissopen там скорее всего они калёные и с фрезеровкой будут танцы с бубном, я недавно советские тиски станочные реставрировал, за не имением плоскошлифа и поверочного инструмента, губки шлифовал вручную на стекле с применением воды и листового образива, заусенцы убрал, конечно ни о какой точности и речи не может быть но более менее можно делать не ответственные вещи
Can’t wait to see this vice used in a new video!
Admirable job. Bravo!
there's no way that this thing is square
That's what i was thinking. Those jaws have to be .015 out or more now. He'll learn
im my self a machinist and i cringe so hard watching this
This video is so satisfying
What products were used as the primer and filler? Are they just standard auto body products? Also curious on the product to remove the old rust and paint. The end result looks great!
Recently 'discovered' your channel.
Great content and skilled restauration. Besides that, also the editing and quality of the video is very high.
You deserve much more subscribers! Won't take long before your channel takes a flight... 💪👍
They made beautiful vises back in the day.
This is awesome! Love the color you chose too! And as for the people worried about the levelness and eveness after he sanded it, there are ways around this, you can adjust the machine to counter whatever is off about the new VICE, so yeah, everybody chill, this guy clearly knows what he is doing. Also, why would anybody ever down-vote this? I'm starting to think that the down-vote button is just a jealousy button. You guys wish you had this dude's shop. If I could add TWO upvotes, i WOULD. Cheers Alex, keep up the awesome work!
He clearly doesn`t or he wouldn´t have sanded precision surfacs on a mdf board. MDF is pressed saw dust that shit is more warped per inch than a banana.
@@excitedbox5705 While you make a great point, the machine he's using can surely be adjusted to make up for any errors. I have no doubts that his milling machine can still get the job done with that vice so long as it's leveled first or the machine is adjusted to make the first passes level.
@@KennyPhases No, that is really not the case. You could spend about 5-10 minutes for every single item you mount in that vise to use an indicator and make sure it is level/square and do that for every time you turn or readjust it but that will take you an extra hour for every item you make on that mill. If you don´t do that your errors multiply very quickly. Even wiping dust off a surface makes a difference in accuracy. By the time you get to the 3rd side the part is unusable for anything but looking pretty.
Also keep in mind he is showing other people how to do this and if someone is looking up how to clean up or repair a mill and follows his steps they will destroy their equipment as well. These tools are VERY expensive and run into the hundreds if not thousands of dollars. I feel you have a responsibility to spread accurate information.
What he is doing is not as dangerous as working with electricity but imagine someone showing how to put in cabling without circuit breakers. A while ago some 12, 13 year old girls saw a video of how to make popcorn with a rubbing alcohol burner and soda can on youtube and tried to imitate it. 1 died and the other burned over 80% of her body.
@@excitedbox5705 The amount of rubbing he did on these amounts to around a thou at most - The parts you are worried about are largely inconsequential as any new slack is adjusted out by the gibbs of the dovetails, not the machine itself which are the main element other than that the only concern that holds marginal merit is the base of the vice itself
The fixation on the idea of "oh its not square" in comments is mostly a sign of people repeating info without context - What he did here is at worst going to change that vice by a thou - for real scale that is 0.025mm or a half a sheet of typical A4 paper
He is unlikely to ever need to machine to that resolution which makes the discussion academic only
Wow! Great video. Huge variety of angles, great close-ups and well edited. That's a lot of work. Cool vise, too.
Lots of people mentioning no grease on reassembly, I have to ask, wouldn’t you want to use oil? Yes grease will be smoother and last longer, but wouldn’t stuff stick to the grease all the time, like dust and debris caused by drilling, shop dust in general too
I’m in the process of restoring my grandfather’s vise, it’s all cleaned up, I painted it, it’s drying right now. Soon all I’ll have to do is reassemble. I’m going to put it on top of my packout, so obviously I’m painting it red, I’ll be bolting it to my packout work top
Anyway, I’ll be using oil as I don’t mind giving it some maintenance once in a while
What an awesome restoration! Just discovered your channel and subbed. Don’t pay any attention to the ridiculous comments here about your sanding, painting or other techniques you used. It’s your equipment and you took the time to share with us what you did with it and I, for one, am thankful for that. People have nothing better to do then criticize and complain about the hard work and free content that you and other content creators provide. They love to nitpick and find fault with everything you do. I always find it interesting that the ones who complain are the ones who have zero videos to share. What difference does it make that you used Bondo, or sanded the surfaces? It’s your vise, you can do whatever you want to with it. In the end, it is better looking and more functional than when you started. I appreciate the work and the video. Thank you!! 👍🏻😃
The vise just needed a clean (And possibly a paint). Sanding the jaws though stopped it from being a usable machinists vise. Not just for him (current caretaker) but also the next machinist that comes along and ends up with it. That's what people are complaining about. It's actually less functional than when he started. It was a brilliantly filmed and edited piece though, and the vise looks beautiful now - but it's just not as good as it was, with regards being a precise (useful) vise.
@@CraigsWorkshop Yes. It's a very nice looking pile of junk.
He was better of with a dirty looking vice that was accurate.
Greetings and hallo from Texas. Your patience is admirable and the key to your success. I just found your channel today and watched the Bridgeport and vise restorations. Could you tell more about the cleaner you used on the Bridgeport? It's not available in the US. I recently sold my milling machine due to the cost of moving it 700 miles (over 1100 km). Your videos will help me make the replacement look good. Beautiful job on the vise! Subscribed. Skål.
There was a reason it was greasy before you cleaned it.
abortionsrock and what was the reason
Great work
Absolutely brilliant, your work is a great inspiration for my own videos😊👍
Nice restoration mate!
Great job, do you know what vise this is?
Nice job. Did you use any lube putting it together? Even the fixed metal surfaces should have had something to prevent corrosion.
Jon Anderson didn't show it, but I used way oil on all the surfaces :)
the hole through the base of the vice is not only there to mount the vice but allso to stick a screwdriver through to loosen those screws you used the extremely short angled screwdriver for
watahyahknow sure, that worked for two of the screws, but not the back two.
@@achappel there must be a way to get straight access , i doubt that the factory is putting the vices together with handtools , they wouldnt make a profit so they need to be able to get to the screws some way , a hole through the base or a place where the base is narrower seems to be most logical
This is a fantastic refurb job. I'm really impressed by your attention to detail.. Keep it up!! Cheers,
If you really want to see the attention to details then check channel called "My Mechanics" - the guy is probably the best in restoring old stuff
Man, I just stumbled across your channel.. I’m glad I stuck around! Great videos!!
Fantastic result!! Great work this is the 4th video in a row on your channel, great content 👍🏻
I enjoy watching all your videos. congratulations
Great video!
1 question: why apply paddy after red primer? , can’t you just apply the final color on to the red primer?
Outstanding work, great video
Only 21.5K subs? Feels like this channel should be 20X that amount, great vids dude.
Beautiful Restoration!!!!!!!!
Awesome job, and also the best blue color!
Spends a day removing rust. Primes it in rust color. Haha! Turned out great. Well done.
Just randomly found your channel and can't belive that you only have 12.7k subs?! You're amazing and your sense of detail and creativity is through the roof! Saw you had some Biltema products too so I googled you and found out you're from Norway(?) Your English is on point and I can't hear a bit of Norwegian dialect! I'm from Sweden so it's awsome to see a neighbor :D
What about those mounting brackets?
Have you had an issue with the blued hardware surface rusting?
Nice a very detailed resto! I can't help but think doing it in hammertone paint again would have looked better.
That looks so good it makes me wanna cry thinking that you have to use it
Loved the video and the result, it's a really beautiful addition to the mill. I don't mind the music so much, but when you're speaking, I'd rather hear you talking! Either way, you've got a new sub from me, keep up the great work.
Terrific Job. One of the best resto vids I've seen. The only criticism, is that I would like to have seen some of the parts machined rather than sanded. Although, I doubt you will be using the vice to hardcore machining work. Great Job.
Love to see Czechoslovakian vise in the world 😍😍😍😍
Great restoration job Alexandre. Enjoyed every minute of it. Liked and subscribed.👍
Great work there. Well done!
This color is beautiful!
Beautiful restoration of the old vise...maybe too pretty. I must ask how well the body filler will work on a vise. Very nice work!