The best teacher I've ever met told me one thing: If you don't try to do anything, you'll never make a mistake ... but you'll never do anything. If you don't make mistakes by trying you won't learn anything. If you are ashamed of your mistakes and don't show them to others, they won't learn anything. I found another good teacher.
I'm 73 years young . If I would have had access to u tub and People like you and Mr.Peat my life's work would have taken a different path. Keep showing ALL of the build good and bad it is a learning experience for you and use. Thank you for the videos!! Bill
I know I keep mentioning my (late) step-father since he was one of the finest machine shop teachers I've ever known, and when you mentioned air hoses in your shop, it really rang a bell with me. Pop never had an air hose anywhere near his machines in his classroom/shop. He capped off all the air lines but ONE and that one air hose was off in a corner. All the machines were cleaned with brushes... just like you're doing. I also like your filing left handed at the lathe instead of reaching over the chuck. Everyone does it and it makes me crazy to see it.
Well done Quinn 👍😎👍. Finally - a UA-cam machinist who explains and demonstrates that in most instances slitting saws should be used at full depth. Thank you. Joel.....
They always wobble, meaning only a few teeth are cutting. I tried to make a "almost" perfect arbor, still wobbles. I bound one up trying to cut SS, shattered like glass.
I had an apprentice from the West Indies. Part of putting a machine together was taking it apart taking pictures measuring everything and reassembly. He couldn’t say DEPTH he called it the DEATH MIC. He’s now a journeyman millwright and they will always be known as the Death mic when I work with him
as a beginner, this video scares the crap out of me! Especially with the stainless... however, I despite loving the design, I might just go in from the other side all the way through the clamping thread hole and use 4140. Thank you for pushing the envelope Quinn, its has so many lessons baked in! Quality bolts? Never imagined this, lessons learned.
When I was an intern in a physics lab many years ago, among my responsibilities was to drill little vacuum relief holes through those stainless steel optical shafts. I did this in a machine shop surrounded by half a dozen professional machinists none on whom ever told me anything about work hardening or anchor lube or the importance of being right in center. Arrrrrrgh. Anyway, thanks to Quinn, now I know!
Loved watching this. First thing I ever made on my lathe when I got it (apart from a couple of plastic bits) was a replacement rod for the side of the second-hand crib I'd bought for my second child. It was a 900mm long, 6mm diameter (3ft by 1/4inch, roughly) rod with a knurled knob on one end and threaded M6 on the other... in 303 stainless. Oooh boy did I learn a lot! Proud of that part.
@@Blondihacks 2nd this, stainless really does have a habit of piling up with dry fasteners. It would be a shame for your wicked cool vise stop to meet such an undeserving fate. Thanks for the stellar content
Doubly important for NPT and other tapered connections. I’ve lightly hand screwed SS NPT fittings before and have them gall up on me so bad I ended up having get the torch out to get them apart. Double trouble because the hoses were custom order items with a 5wk lead time. Vacuum grease and PTFE paste work well in addition to your standard anti-seizes.
@@fredgenius not quite. Mating threaded components of the same alloy - especially stainless - are more prone to galling. A 304 stainless bolt with a 400 series stainless threaded hole will be better than a 304 with a 304, but you should always use a sufficient thread lubricant with stainless fasteners whether they are being installed in like or dissimilar material
Oh on ss 303 ,304 i use peanut oil for tapping was an old machinist told me about it plus if it smoke it make the shop smell better than old cutting oil
Great video, thanks. A better way to attached the ball: ball should be smaller than the bar in diameter. with a common drill bit (same dia. as the ball), drill a hole 3/4 ball's diameter deep. Clean parts for oil free, and pour few drops of locktite ( I used 270). drop the ball in, and bend the "lip" around towards the center with a small hammer. rigidity is guaranteed. when I did mine, I used 5mm ball and 6 mm bar. (sorry for my English) thanks again.
69 youngster here, hobby machinist with PM25 PM1127 and PM833. But I have worked in few machine shops as electronic control engineer (Sensors, instruments, controls programming PLCs etc) May I suggest a few tips and tricks that I have learned over the years? Set screws: get a piece of copper wire from say 2/16, 2/14, 2/12 etc... I keep just a few inches of the ground wire in various guauges. Now whenever I have to install a setscrew, I ALWAYS put a short cut piece of wire in the whole before inserting the set screw. This way you will never mar a shaft, a keyway etc A millwright I met was using BBs for air carbine and pistol! Never had a problem getting a pulley off a shaft after this trick! Super glue: once the parts you want to glue are absolutely free of grease, even finger grease, wipe them with a damp cloth and dip the part in baking soda powder (it used to be a cow on the box, now it's a strong man.... you know what I am talking about), Put the parts together and drop the superglue at the joint. Use the thinner type. The physic behind this is that superglue will bind each baking soda grains to each other and to the surface, augmenting very much the actual surface contact. It's at the microscopic level but believe me it works! Also, you can fill a hole with layers of soda and superglue then drill and tap into this to repair a damaged screw thread. This work very well in cast iron! Keep those good VDO comming! I learn a lot from you... Luc
A very pleasant watch. Thanks for that. I appreciate your references to Stefan G. and including the various foibles of the process that we all encounter. I've learned to make some extra blanks when I'm puttering at things so I can have a do-over. I've learned several things from you already. Keep up the great videos and thanks again.
Like other(s) I too didn't know to use slitting saws full depth so thank you for that. I was, however, told by an exert to always cut a dovetail in one pass. You first machine the trench for which I use tipped tooling on the mill and run it as fast as possible and watch the blue chips fly. Then run through with the HSS dovetail cutter going much slower than theory would dictate and very slow feed with plenty of coolant (to both cool and to flush chips away). Of course you need to plan this cut very carefully to ensure that you end up 'on size', but I have had great success with this technique and the quality of the finish was spectacular compared agaist my expectations.
Only today have I found your channel. It’s nearly perfect - a great voice giving practical info. One thing I’ve noticed over the years is an attitude that sneers at making things for yourself. Indeed, the shops I’ve been in have been 100% CNC, and what little “traditional “ equipment was covered in dust and lacking in fixtures.
Nice work Quinn! In case you're interested: A little trick I learned for tapping stainless is to actually drill the hole 0.1mm bigger than needed. Gives the tap a little more room
Hi Quinn watched this vid last night, after lunch today I wandered out to the man cave and made one very similar. My vice has only got liiiiiitle up stands so I could no do the drill through bit. But your clear instructions on how to do the operations helped mine work just so. Thanks from the UK
Hi Quinn, Congratulations are in order! In my books anyway. You’re one of the first I see to use a thread tap properly. By that, I mean rotating it back to break off the chips. So many I see just wind the poor tap in the whole way. I was taught many years ago, and was to the point of wondering if modern thread taps are different! :) Love the show. Rx
Hey Quinn. Good vid as always. I’m a newbie and your vids have been informative. Appreciate it. Just a tip... to attach ball to your rod. Put the ball on the tip of a drill Chuck with NO LUBE. Put the rod in your Chuck and press the two together with a fair amount of force. Spin it around 600 and increase the pressure slowly. Instant friction weld. Just watch carefully and the second the bearing spins at the same rate as the stock... stop the late. Works like a charm!
To make the collet block set up better, turn another rod that is milled away (or offset turned) for slightly more than the length of the collet nut. Easy peasy! An L-shaped rod that can go down into the vise is also useful. Totally agree on the anti-seize for stainless--I use Tef-Gel which is sold in boat shops. It's super sticky-goopy but clear and teflon-based. Neither screw needs to come out very far, so you won't notice the messy anti-seize.
That's a neat little tool. Good video too, of course! And thank you for knocking off the vibration gauge. It was frustrating. Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Hi Quinn, nice job! If you try a V2.0, stop rods with a dog-leg are very handy, this way they can swivel up or down to suit your job or obstructions. And a Cam Lock lever could also help - threadlock the bolt in to save your threads and adjust the cam lever for clamping pressure. It'll make it a lot quicker to operate. Stay safe and well :)
Cool project. To get it to work with the collet block try putting a parallel between the block and the vise, perhaps this will allow the stop rod to contact the corner of the block.
Awesome stuff. Tip: cover your air blower with a rag and you can really hook in without blowing stuff all over the place. Try to always cut against the fixed jaw. Not such a problem with light cuts but one day it'll push hard enough to dislodge the part. Haha.
Great video!!!!! I learn a lot from you!!! Brass tipped set screws,,, you can just drop in a little bit of brass rod into the hole ahead of the set screw,, or copper.
I wonder if for fixing the ball bearings a Liion battery spot welder might do the job? For a totally clean fix it would require an external trigger button (usually a simple soldering job) as you would want the ball being firmly contacted while being pressed firmly to the hemispherical indent. A soft copper sheet insulated from a vice at the back face and connected to the anode and the bar insulated from the vice also but connected firmly to the cathode. Once happy with the set up a couple of short pulses might well give an even more solid fixing than CA glue. Just a thought.
Nice video on a really useful part, I have made one some years ago but always follow your channel. However, ref going ful depth first time on slitting saws is new to me! (you can always learn something can't you?), tried it and well, bang on! Thanks for the tip.
love to watch you work wish i had half of your tools i have to use my drill press and a cheap cross feed vice, but i only do very minor and coarse milling around the farm. great vid BH
That green stuff is said to be made for stainless because it won't attack the micro structure of the steel I quit using that green snot 40 years ago. No good as far as tapping fluid. At home I use molydee for tapping but very expensive . Mostly I use Used ATF. for cutting oil
Excellent video, very educational and fun too! Thoughts about retaining the ball bearing (some duplicates other posts): 1. Grind off some of the polished chrome from the surfaces you will be gluing or soldering / brazing; roughen the surface a bit 2. Drill out the end of the rod, put in a ball bearing, crimp or peen 3. Silver solder or braze And @George Mann Sr. suggested using a (I assume valve) pushrod from a gasoline engine. Gas engines come in many different sizes; might talk to mechanics and to small engine repair places. I'd think you would want a diameter you can find under/over reamers for.
Thanks UA-cam algorithm! Great video! This feels like This Old Tony mixed with Emily Graslie from The Brain Scoop. I look forward to watching the rest of your videos!
Quinn, I just stumbled on your UA-cam videos. Great and enjoyable. I cheat sometimes on making tooling.....IE, I wonder if an old push rod from an engine valve train would work for a balled end rod? Has a ball on one end at least. Just a thought? I realize it's all about producing these parts on our own. Anywho, thanks for the videos!
Expertly machined, as ever, but I'm wondering whether the initial problems with the bolt were partly because it has too much stainless steel to bend. A simple mod would be to saw a vertical slit a small distance on either side of the bolt threads so that only the central third or so of the length is being flexed. That would transmit more force to the rod, making the clamping more efficient.
5:10 if you run your endmill on the front of the part going left to right (Cutter movement `aka "climb milling") you will wind up with less of a burr than the way you went. Minor thing really but it can save time deburring the part when finished.
Well done Quinn! Myself, I think I would round over the bar stock and not add material (ball bearing). Take 1 end of your bar and mill a flat spot for enough clearance for your collet block. What do you think about making one and instead of the round bar, drill and tap all the way with a fine thread, a long screw or threaded rod would give you a stop with a fine adjustment feature. 💖💖 Love you, and your videos!
You might want to look into purchasing a shell mill for surfacing. They are fantastic and give you a wonderful surface finish. Also they are not very expensive for sizes up to about 2 inches. A 2 inch one will run around $50, which includes inserts.
While making optical mounts, I stumbled on a simple, reliable method to capture a ball bearing in a rod or screw. Basically, you use a twist drill to bore a hole slightly deeper than the radius of the ball bearing. You then raise the lathe tool above center and use it to fold the rim over. Basically ‘peening’ the edge & folding it onto the ball bearing. A little geometry tells us that the drill depth to the center of the ball is: Depth = R / cos( 90 - alpha/2 ) R = ball bearing radius Alpha = drill angle {135, 115, 90,….} This has the benefit of allowing the ball to move relative to the rod or screw. It is certainly worth a try…..
A suggestion. Never use 6-32 of you can help it. This is the most often broken tap because the threads are too course for the diameter. 6-40 always a better choice.
In electronics 6-32 is one of the most common sizes, so I had to learn to work with it. I agree that it's problematic, but if one is careful, success usually obtains. It helps to cheat a little by going up a thousandths or so on drill size as holding power requirements are frequently lower, and the extra clearance helps prevent seizing the tap. And just work carefully.
The split line does not need to call perfectly on the end of the thread, you could simply overshoot the through hole a bit. So long as the thread is anywhere to the right of the slit, you're golden
The biggest problem sith galling comes from when both parts are made from the same alloy. The problem can be reduced or eliminated by using another grade of SS, or carbon steel, brass, etc for the bolt. Lube or ant-seize is still recommended.
Could always run a triangle file down the inside right angle to remove the fillet :) Love the vids! Keep up the content and I’m looking forward to the next steam engine vid
You do such a great job explaining things to those that might not know anything about machining. Explaining what a vise stop is would have never even crossed my mind because It's so common to me that I don't realize others might not know!
Greetings from South Africa!! Recently got myself a milling machine, so your videos are very helpful for me as a beginner!! In a few videos I saw you using a small triangular square to square up work pieces. If you don't mind please share make or link to these mini squares. Greatly appreciated. Johan
I know this is an older video but someone might find this useful. When I need to custom size bolts on the grinder, I chuck the head up in my cordless drill and run the drill as I grind the bolt. This keeps it fairly even and you can make a quick, clean chamfer by angling the drill when you are done so the bolt starts easily.
its 4am after a long day of screwing around with the 3d printer and the lathe, and lo and behold as I go to turn the comp off, new blondihacks video!! All you dang creators overseas pick the perfect time to upload dont you? :P haha
I don't know if the rod and ball are stainless, but when using most Loctite on stainless, it is important to use primer first. Yes, absence of air/presence of metal is key, but with stainless, the anode/cathode reaction is missing like in typical carbon steels. I work with stainless regularly in mechanical applications and could not figure this problem out until I called Loctite and spoke with an engineer. It may possibly have worked with primer, but then the ball is just seated with countersink at the end of the rod, so who knows.
303 is free machining 304 ,316, 321 etc non hardening . What happens when you dwell with your drill, is you friction weld your hss drill with the stainless that is why it becomes hard . Some kind of alloy.
Is it no longer tradition to face the ends? Just regular, when we feel like it, facing? :( Love your videos, I had a similar lathe from PM and ordered the same mill. Your vidoes are so helpful, thank you so much. I will sign up for the Patrion soon.
Keep up the good work, Quinn. Do you plan on making more pins with different shaped ends? Like a smaller diameter tip, or one that's milled to center to get around the locking ring on the collet block? And thank you soooo much for pushing that piece of wood off. It thought you were gonna leave us hanging.
drilling stainless is fine, especially in 303, it’s not a difficult material. 316L can be more of a pain for work hardening. Tapping Ti, is the worst home shop nightmare, don’t ask if your tap will snap, ask when😭😭😭🤣🤣🤣❤️❤️❤️could you mill a flat on another stop rod, so it will clear the collet ring and seat on the block body?
Silver soldering (plumber's solder) or silver brazing? Soft soldering would be fine but the high temp of brazing would draw the hardness from the balls. And the plating on the balls may be resistant to solder.
Great tool, i shall attempt to make 1, Quinn ? you list a lot of tools and accessories that you use, BUT i cannot see a link for the Scrotchbrite wheel. could you possibly link please ? Thank you :)
Ah, now I see why I've been having trouble drilling 316 stainless. Thanks for the tips regarding drilling stainless. Just one question though. Is that toothpaste fluoride free?
8:40 - this is the kind of knowledge that, while one can learn it without having done it oneself, one can't expect to intuitively know... thanks! I mean, I knew that work hardening was a thing, but I would not have thought to expect it from drilling in certain materials, like stainless. Interesting! 13:42 - also, thank you so much for having videos about concepts before the videos that use the concepts. I'm glad I went through your whole series (well, I'm not quite done yet, but I'm getting close to caught up!!) in order. I'd have had no idea what this RC3/RC2 thing was, before the recent video on that topic. 15:21 - no doubt! Yay, chamfers. :) 15:43 - hahaha, channeling your inner cat, I see. Did Sprocket get excited about this, too? :) 19:30 - hey, cool, a whole other reason to never use Amazon. Thanks! Boycott vindication for the win. :) 21:48 - Wheee! Another inner cat moment! 22:20 - wow indeed. I _think_ I might have seen the needle _just_ budge at one point in there, but... pretty darn stable! 23:28/23:32 - ah-hah! This is the first time I've heard any real information about the differences between different CA (cyanoacrylate) glues... I've heard you talk about 603 versus super glue, and Adam Savage talks about CA glue all the time, and... I knew these things were related, but knowing that they cure differently is a new data point for me! 25:14 - good work! Thanks for another great video, Quinn!
cool project. The way I see it though, "drilling concentric holes" theory suggests using the larger drill first. This will allow the smaller drill to track well, since its chisel can do its job standing on solid "ground". Pilot drilling is a misinterpreted technique, since the pilot should have a diameter smaller than the chisel edge's length of the next drill. And if one likes a drilling challenge, deep drilling titanium will make stainless feel like 2007 aluminium :)... Oooh! And I have a question: what is the definition of a "real" machinist?
Perhaps another idea for the design would be to use something like a setscrew to hold the small rod in place? Add a flat to the small rod for bonus marks?
Would it be possible to solve the problem of the rod not having enough space to actually touch off on the collet block by making another rod with a reduced diameter section at the tip, so it can clear the knob? Or is there not enough space around the knob to do that?
In regards to making a single flute ball end cutter, could you not silver solder a ball bearing to the end of a piece of rod and then grind the ball into the cutter configuration? That way the curvature would be perfect.
4 роки тому+2
AvE sent me. She be one badass metal maker. And Blondihacks is skilled too. 🛠⚒️🧰💪
Ms Blondi, I'm not a machinist (but I am an engineer) and there is something about machining and your method of instruction that is fascinating. Can you please tell us the details of making a tapered part in the lathe. I know this is done by carriage movement but it seems that since the drive shaft drives the tool holder forward only a straight cut is possible. The carriage and the tool would have to move at the same time and at different rates. I don't understand. Thanks..
Two common methods of turning tapers: 1) offsetting the tailstock toward the operator moves the tail of the workpiece closer to the cutting tool resulting in a taper. The other method is with a taper attachment that mounts to the machine and moves the cross slide as the machine travels. There is a very old book, "how to run a lathe", by South Bend Co, long out of print, which can be free downloaded off the Web. It is an easily understandable read which will give you much info.
Congratulation for your video: i have a milling machine similar then your, ( My Is SIEG SX3L), could You please say me what Is It the white Grease that You used on your drill bit? I want to use It me too!! Cheers from Italy!! Alberto 😁🇮🇹
I have been doing metal work most of my life. I have had a very successful metal fabrication company for decades, and sometimes with as many as 200 employees, and currently about 80. We have lathes, CNC and manual mills, lots of welders, press brakes, saws, and all the rest. My mission has been to hire mostly young people with no skills and teach them the basic of having a job, and specifically working with metal, and making things from scratch to finished product. We work mostly in stainless steel. I love your channel and have learned a great deal in just the month or so I have been watching. We have an unusual number of women working for us in fabrication jobs. My machinists, laser operators, and supervisors are mostly women. Not on purpose. It just worked out that way. I try to instill in these young people the desire and passion to work in metal and hopefully start their own business some day. I will be showing them your channel as inspiration. I love your intelligence, clear way of teaching, and especially your humor and willingness to show and explain the mistakes you make. That is so valuable to us learning from you. I wish you the best in the future and please keep doing what you do and how yo do it. Very impressive.
The best teacher I've ever met told me one thing:
If you don't try to do anything, you'll never make a mistake ... but you'll never do anything.
If you don't make mistakes by trying you won't learn anything.
If you are ashamed of your mistakes and don't show them to others, they won't learn anything.
I found another good teacher.
I'm 73 years young . If I would have had access to u tub and People like you and Mr.Peat my life's work would have taken a different path. Keep showing ALL of the build good and bad it is a learning experience for you and use. Thank you for the videos!! Bill
Lmao mr. Peat
I watch Doublecayn he is really good
I do hope you meant "UA-cam". Access to her tub would be...
@@scottwillis5434 Well I apologize for ruffling your spelling feathers. But you got my drift . So whats the harm?
You did just fine my friend. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. 😊🌎✨
I know I keep mentioning my (late) step-father since he was one of the finest machine shop teachers I've ever known, and when you mentioned air hoses in your shop, it really rang a bell with me. Pop never had an air hose anywhere near his machines in his classroom/shop. He capped off all the air lines but ONE and that one air hose was off in a corner. All the machines were cleaned with brushes... just like you're doing. I also like your filing left handed at the lathe instead of reaching over the chuck. Everyone does it and it makes me crazy to see it.
Well done Quinn 👍😎👍. Finally - a UA-cam machinist who explains and demonstrates that in most instances slitting saws should be used at full depth. Thank you. Joel.....
They always wobble, meaning only a few teeth are cutting. I tried to make a "almost" perfect arbor, still wobbles. I bound one up trying to cut SS, shattered like glass.
I had an apprentice from the West Indies. Part of putting a machine together was taking it apart taking pictures measuring everything and reassembly. He couldn’t say DEPTH he called it the DEATH MIC. He’s now a journeyman millwright and they will always be known as the Death mic when I work with him
Besides your technical aptitude I just love the way you talk!!
as a beginner, this video scares the crap out of me! Especially with the stainless... however, I despite loving the design, I might just go in from the other side all the way through the clamping thread hole and use 4140. Thank you for pushing the envelope Quinn, its has so many lessons baked in! Quality bolts? Never imagined this, lessons learned.
Quinn, I used the Anchor lube today on some 304 SS. Turned, drilled, tapped and parted off 2 pieces with no funky smell or smoke. Thanks for the tip!
When I was an intern in a physics lab many years ago, among my responsibilities was to drill little vacuum relief holes through those stainless steel optical shafts. I did this in a machine shop surrounded by half a dozen professional machinists none on whom ever told me anything about work hardening or anchor lube or the importance of being right in center. Arrrrrrgh. Anyway, thanks to Quinn, now I know!
Thanks Quinn, I never knew that you should use splitting saws full depth. Useful tool.
I learned some stuff again. Thanks.
Good to see the hacksaw, builds character!
Seriously, I love that you say, "real machinists" as if you aren't one. Great work.
Loved watching this. First thing I ever made on my lathe when I got it (apart from a couple of plastic bits) was a replacement rod for the side of the second-hand crib I'd bought for my second child. It was a 900mm long, 6mm diameter (3ft by 1/4inch, roughly) rod with a knurled knob on one end and threaded M6 on the other... in 303 stainless. Oooh boy did I learn a lot! Proud of that part.
Add a touch of anti-seize to the screw. SS is terrible for galling
Good tip!
@@Blondihacks 2nd this, stainless really does have a habit of piling up with dry fasteners. It would be a shame for your wicked cool vise stop to meet such an undeserving fate. Thanks for the stellar content
Doubly important for NPT and other tapered connections. I’ve lightly hand screwed SS NPT fittings before and have them gall up on me so bad I ended up having get the torch out to get them apart. Double trouble because the hoses were custom order items with a 5wk lead time.
Vacuum grease and PTFE paste work well in addition to your standard anti-seizes.
Or use a stainless screw...
@@fredgenius not quite. Mating threaded components of the same alloy - especially stainless - are more prone to galling. A 304 stainless bolt with a 400 series stainless threaded hole will be better than a 304 with a 304, but you should always use a sufficient thread lubricant with stainless fasteners whether they are being installed in like or dissimilar material
Oh on ss 303 ,304 i use peanut oil for tapping was an old machinist told me about it plus if it smoke it make the shop smell better than old cutting oil
Great video, thanks.
A better way to attached the ball: ball should be smaller than the bar in diameter.
with a common drill bit (same dia. as the ball), drill a hole 3/4 ball's diameter deep. Clean parts for oil free, and pour few drops of locktite ( I used 270). drop the ball in, and bend the "lip" around towards the center with a small hammer. rigidity is guaranteed. when I did mine, I used 5mm ball and 6 mm bar. (sorry for my English)
thanks again.
This Brit apprentice very much appreciates the metric conversions 😊
And this anti-Imperialist American does as well!
@@DavidLindes Uh... K 🤨
69 youngster here, hobby machinist with PM25 PM1127 and PM833.
But I have worked in few machine shops as electronic control engineer (Sensors, instruments, controls programming PLCs etc) May I suggest a few tips and tricks that I have learned over the years?
Set screws: get a piece of copper wire from say 2/16, 2/14, 2/12 etc... I keep just a few inches of the ground wire in various guauges.
Now whenever I have to install a setscrew, I ALWAYS put a short cut piece of wire in the whole before inserting the set screw. This way you will never mar a shaft, a keyway etc
A millwright I met was using BBs for air carbine and pistol!
Never had a problem getting a pulley off a shaft after this trick!
Super glue: once the parts you want to glue are absolutely free of grease, even finger grease, wipe them with a damp cloth and dip the part in baking soda powder (it used to be a cow on the box, now it's a strong man.... you know what I am talking about),
Put the parts together and drop the superglue at the joint. Use the thinner type.
The physic behind this is that superglue will bind each baking soda grains to each other and to the surface, augmenting very much the actual surface contact. It's at the microscopic level but believe me it works!
Also, you can fill a hole with layers of soda and superglue then drill and tap into this to repair a damaged screw thread. This work very well in cast iron!
Keep those good VDO comming! I learn a lot from you...
Luc
A very pleasant watch. Thanks for that. I appreciate your references to Stefan G. and including the various foibles of the process that we all encounter. I've learned to make some extra blanks when I'm puttering at things so I can have a do-over.
I've learned several things from you already. Keep up the great videos and thanks again.
Like other(s) I too didn't know to use slitting saws full depth so thank you for that. I was, however, told by an exert to always cut a dovetail in one pass. You first machine the trench for which I use tipped tooling on the mill and run it as fast as possible and watch the blue chips fly. Then run through with the HSS dovetail cutter going much slower than theory would dictate and very slow feed with plenty of coolant (to both cool and to flush chips away). Of course you need to plan this cut very carefully to ensure that you end up 'on size', but I have had great success with this technique and the quality of the finish was spectacular compared agaist my expectations.
Only today have I found your channel. It’s nearly perfect - a great voice giving practical info.
One thing I’ve noticed over the years is an attitude that sneers at making things for yourself. Indeed, the shops I’ve been in have been 100% CNC, and what little “traditional “ equipment was covered in dust and lacking in fixtures.
Nice work Quinn!
In case you're interested: A little trick I learned for tapping stainless is to actually drill the hole 0.1mm bigger than needed. Gives the tap a little more room
This gave me an idea on how to improve my homemade carriage stop that I use on my lathe! Thank you Blondihacks!
Hi Quinn watched this vid last night, after lunch today I wandered out to the man cave and made one very similar. My vice has only got liiiiiitle up stands so I could no do the drill through bit. But your clear instructions on how to do the operations helped mine work just so. Thanks from the UK
Hi Quinn,
Congratulations are in order! In my books anyway. You’re one of the first I see to use a thread tap properly. By that, I mean rotating it back to break off the chips. So many I see just wind the poor tap in the whole way. I was taught many years ago, and was to the point of wondering if modern thread taps are different! :)
Love the show. Rx
Failing to break the chips, especially for small taps, provides feedback VERY quickly. Hopefully one learns from it (or gets instructions before).
Although you didn't do it here, I was reminded that maybe I should hate you some. I find myself saying "Yahtzee!" a lot when cutting off parts! 😊😊
Hey Quinn. Good vid as always. I’m a newbie and your vids have been informative. Appreciate it. Just a tip... to attach ball to your rod. Put the ball on the tip of a drill Chuck with NO LUBE. Put the rod in your Chuck and press the two together with a fair amount of force. Spin it around 600 and increase the pressure slowly. Instant friction weld. Just watch carefully and the second the bearing spins at the same rate as the stock... stop the late. Works like a charm!
Hi Quinn,
Good to see one being made for stainless... I like the slitting saw tip... Thank you.
Take care
Paul,,
Great vid Quinn. You can slit your flexture hole offcenter. If you put it tangent to the bore you’d gain a few threads.
Good point!
To make the collet block set up better, turn another rod that is milled away (or offset turned) for slightly more than the length of the collet nut. Easy peasy! An L-shaped rod that can go down into the vise is also useful.
Totally agree on the anti-seize for stainless--I use Tef-Gel which is sold in boat shops. It's super sticky-goopy but clear and teflon-based. Neither screw needs to come out very far, so you won't notice the messy anti-seize.
That's a neat little tool.
Good video too, of course!
And thank you for knocking off the vibration gauge. It was frustrating.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
I'm not sure if you're talking about machining stainless or the morning bathroom rotation.
Cobalt drills work excellent in stainless.
Hi Quinn, nice job! If you try a V2.0, stop rods with a dog-leg are very handy, this way they can swivel up or down to suit your job or obstructions. And a Cam Lock lever could also help - threadlock the bolt in to save your threads and adjust the cam lever for clamping pressure. It'll make it a lot quicker to operate. Stay safe and well :)
All good ideas!
Enjoyed watching you do this project with your typical expertise and humor. Thanks for the video.
Hi Quinn. I love your videos. I didn't know that cutting would work harden a material, but it makes sense in retrospect.
Cool project. To get it to work with the collet block try putting a parallel between the block and the vise, perhaps this will allow the stop rod to contact the corner of the block.
Great build. I find a vise stop to be an absolute necessity.
Awesome stuff.
Tip: cover your air blower with a rag and you can really hook in without blowing stuff all over the place.
Try to always cut against the fixed jaw. Not such a problem with light cuts but one day it'll push hard enough to dislodge the part. Haha.
Great video!!!!! I learn a lot from you!!! Brass tipped set screws,,, you can just drop in a little bit of brass rod into the hole ahead of the set screw,, or copper.
I wonder if for fixing the ball bearings a Liion battery spot welder might do the job? For a totally clean fix it would require an external trigger button (usually a simple soldering job) as you would want the ball being firmly contacted while being pressed firmly to the hemispherical indent.
A soft copper sheet insulated from a vice at the back face and connected to the anode and the bar insulated from the vice also but connected firmly to the cathode. Once happy with the set up a couple of short pulses might well give an even more solid fixing than CA glue.
Just a thought.
Gotta love the weekend uploads. Love the video, always a handy tool to have in any shop.
I love your scrap drawer!
Nice video on a really useful part, I have made one some years ago but always follow your channel. However, ref going ful depth first time on slitting saws is new to me! (you can always learn something can't you?), tried it and well, bang on!
Thanks for the tip.
love to watch you work wish i had half of your tools i have to use my drill press and a cheap cross feed vice, but i only do very minor and coarse milling around the farm. great vid BH
That green stuff is said to be made for stainless because it won't attack the micro structure of the steel I quit using that green snot 40 years ago. No good as far as tapping fluid. At home I use molydee for tapping but very expensive . Mostly I use Used ATF. for cutting oil
Thank you Quinn you are and awesome instructor!
Excellent video, very educational and fun too!
Thoughts about retaining the ball bearing (some duplicates other posts):
1. Grind off some of the polished chrome from the surfaces you will be gluing or soldering / brazing; roughen the surface a bit
2. Drill out the end of the rod, put in a ball bearing, crimp or peen
3. Silver solder or braze
And @George Mann Sr. suggested using a (I assume valve) pushrod from a gasoline engine. Gas engines come in many different sizes; might talk to mechanics and to small engine repair places. I'd think you would want a diameter you can find under/over reamers for.
Thanks UA-cam algorithm! Great video! This feels like This Old Tony mixed with Emily Graslie from The Brain Scoop. I look forward to watching the rest of your videos!
Stainless isn't too bad, I work with enough Inconel to enjoy stainless of all flavors :)
Keep up the good work and cheers from Cleveland Ohio.
Channel some Robin and silver solder those bearings on and you're golden. Great work!
Nice piece.
Made a similar one but with a threaded bolt for adjusting.
I learn at least three things every time I watch one of these videos!
Quinn, I just stumbled on your UA-cam videos. Great and enjoyable. I cheat sometimes on making tooling.....IE, I wonder if an old push rod from an engine valve train would work for a balled end rod? Has a ball on one end at least. Just a thought? I realize it's all about producing these parts on our own. Anywho, thanks for the videos!
Expertly machined, as ever, but I'm wondering whether the initial problems with the bolt were partly because it has too much stainless steel to bend. A simple mod would be to saw a vertical slit a small distance on either side of the bolt threads so that only the central third or so of the length is being flexed. That would transmit more force to the rod, making the clamping more efficient.
5:10 if you run your endmill on the front of the part going left to right (Cutter movement `aka "climb milling") you will wind up with less of a burr than the way you went. Minor thing really but it can save time deburring the part when finished.
Well done Quinn! Myself, I think I would round over the bar stock and not add material (ball bearing). Take 1 end of your bar and mill a flat spot for enough clearance for your collet block.
What do you think about making one and instead of the round bar, drill and tap all the way with a fine thread, a long screw or threaded rod would give you a stop with a fine adjustment feature. 💖💖 Love you, and your videos!
You might want to look into purchasing a shell mill for surfacing. They are fantastic and give you a wonderful surface finish. Also they are not very expensive for sizes up to about 2 inches. A 2 inch one will run around $50, which includes inserts.
Sounds like someone missed my whole video about shell mills. 😁
@@Blondihacks Sorry, I just found out about your channel about 2 weeks ago. I haven't had chance to watch all your videos yet.
While making optical mounts, I stumbled on a simple, reliable method to capture a ball bearing in a rod or screw. Basically, you use a twist drill to bore a hole slightly deeper than the radius of the ball bearing. You then raise the lathe tool above center and use it to fold the rim over. Basically ‘peening’ the edge & folding it onto the ball bearing.
A little geometry tells us that the drill depth to the center of the ball is:
Depth = R / cos( 90 - alpha/2 )
R = ball bearing radius
Alpha = drill angle {135, 115, 90,….}
This has the benefit of allowing the ball to move relative to the rod or screw.
It is certainly worth a try…..
A suggestion.
Never use 6-32 of you can help it.
This is the most often broken tap because the threads are too course for the diameter. 6-40 always a better choice.
agree on 6-32 being a poor choice of thread. 6-40 isn't common in my hardware stash, so I would have chosen 8-32 or M4
@@grumpyoldman5368
If you don't have 6-40 screws in your stash, I suggest getting some. A lot easier than dealing with broken taps and broken screws.
In electronics 6-32 is one of the most common sizes, so I had to learn to work with it. I agree that it's problematic, but if one is careful, success usually obtains. It helps to cheat a little by going up a thousandths or so on drill size as holding power requirements are frequently lower, and the extra clearance helps prevent seizing the tap. And just work carefully.
But i agree that there are better choices if they are available to you.
The split line does not need to call perfectly on the end of the thread, you could simply overshoot the through hole a bit. So long as the thread is anywhere to the right of the slit, you're golden
You got a like for the full depth cutting info on the slitting saw. Thanks
I would give you a second like if I could for the superglue Allen wrench trick
Great little project, well done!
You had far to much fun playing with sliding bits with this project. 😀
Very good project, well explained and with your usual humour . Thank you
Always love to watch you work!
Good job. With stainless you should use anti seize on threads as it is prone to galling and bolts can lock solid when tightened.
The biggest problem sith galling comes from when both parts are made from the same alloy. The problem can be reduced or eliminated by using another grade of SS, or carbon steel, brass, etc for the bolt. Lube or ant-seize is still recommended.
Could always run a triangle file down the inside right angle to remove the fillet :) Love the vids! Keep up the content and I’m looking forward to the next steam engine vid
Could not the fillet tend to round the vice edge?
Good video. A tiny bit of silver solder under the ball would work, and best of all be permanent. Gotta make one of these.
Blondi if you use some oil of wintergreen when drilling stainless it will save your bits.
You do such a great job explaining things to those that might not know anything about machining. Explaining what a vise stop is would have never even crossed my mind because It's so common to me that I don't realize others might not know!
Like me... I didn't know about vise stops... I use one on my metal band saw... & A stop on my radial arm wood saw.
Greetings from South Africa!! Recently got myself a milling machine, so your videos are very helpful for me as a beginner!! In a few videos I saw you using a small triangular square to square up work pieces. If you don't mind please share make or link to these mini squares. Greatly appreciated. Johan
I know this is an older video but someone might find this useful. When I need to custom size bolts on the grinder, I chuck the head up in my cordless drill and run the drill as I grind the bolt. This keeps it fairly even and you can make a quick, clean chamfer by angling the drill when you are done so the bolt starts easily.
Neat trick with the glue on the Allen wrench.
I’m just glad it worked. 😅
@@Blondihacks Me too, fishing that fastener out otherwise would have been its own video!
Great work and teaching skills!
Loved it all but the BB's.
I'm watching the whole thing before I comment ...well done! Love it! 😁
Cheers
its 4am after a long day of screwing around with the 3d printer and the lathe, and lo and behold as I go to turn the comp off, new blondihacks video!! All you dang creators overseas pick the perfect time to upload dont you? :P haha
I don't know if the rod and ball are stainless, but when using most Loctite on stainless, it is important to use primer first. Yes, absence of air/presence of metal is key, but with stainless, the anode/cathode reaction is missing like in typical carbon steels. I work with stainless regularly in mechanical applications and could not figure this problem out until I called Loctite and spoke with an engineer. It may possibly have worked with primer, but then the ball is just seated with countersink at the end of the rod, so who knows.
303 is free machining 304 ,316, 321 etc non hardening . What happens when you dwell with your drill, is you friction weld your hss drill with the stainless that is why it becomes hard . Some kind of alloy.
Nice little project, Quinn 👍😊👍.
Is it no longer tradition to face the ends? Just regular, when we feel like it, facing? :( Love your videos, I had a similar lathe from PM and ordered the same mill. Your vidoes are so helpful, thank you so much. I will sign up for the Patrion soon.
Keep up the good work, Quinn. Do you plan on making more pins with different shaped ends? Like a smaller diameter tip, or one that's milled to center to get around the locking ring on the collet block? And thank you soooo much for pushing that piece of wood off. It thought you were gonna leave us hanging.
I hadn’t thought about that, but good idea!
drilling stainless is fine, especially in 303, it’s not a difficult material. 316L can be more of a pain for work hardening. Tapping Ti, is the worst home shop nightmare, don’t ask if your tap will snap, ask when😭😭😭🤣🤣🤣❤️❤️❤️could you mill a flat on another stop rod, so it will clear the collet ring and seat on the block body?
very nice vice stop good job i always learn somthing from you. keep up the great videos. thanks.
You did a good job. I would consider Silver Sauder as an option . Thanks for really good idea !!!
Silver soldering (plumber's solder) or silver brazing? Soft soldering would be fine but the high temp of brazing would draw the hardness from the balls. And the plating on the balls may be resistant to solder.
Great tool, i shall attempt to make 1, Quinn ? you list a lot of tools and accessories that you use, BUT i cannot see a link for the Scrotchbrite wheel. could you possibly link please ? Thank you :)
Every episode is a golden merch opportunity…..”Get in…do your business…and GET OUT” 😂😂😂
Ah, now I see why I've been having trouble drilling 316 stainless. Thanks for the tips regarding drilling stainless. Just one question though. Is that toothpaste fluoride free?
Good tip on the slitting saw !👍🇺🇸
you could use a small ball bearings in a shallow hole and swag the end to retain it.
8:40 - this is the kind of knowledge that, while one can learn it without having done it oneself, one can't expect to intuitively know... thanks! I mean, I knew that work hardening was a thing, but I would not have thought to expect it from drilling in certain materials, like stainless. Interesting!
13:42 - also, thank you so much for having videos about concepts before the videos that use the concepts. I'm glad I went through your whole series (well, I'm not quite done yet, but I'm getting close to caught up!!) in order. I'd have had no idea what this RC3/RC2 thing was, before the recent video on that topic.
15:21 - no doubt! Yay, chamfers. :)
15:43 - hahaha, channeling your inner cat, I see. Did Sprocket get excited about this, too? :)
19:30 - hey, cool, a whole other reason to never use Amazon. Thanks! Boycott vindication for the win. :)
21:48 - Wheee! Another inner cat moment!
22:20 - wow indeed. I _think_ I might have seen the needle _just_ budge at one point in there, but... pretty darn stable!
23:28/23:32 - ah-hah! This is the first time I've heard any real information about the differences between different CA (cyanoacrylate) glues... I've heard you talk about 603 versus super glue, and Adam Savage talks about CA glue all the time, and... I knew these things were related, but knowing that they cure differently is a new data point for me!
25:14 - good work! Thanks for another great video, Quinn!
cool project. The way I see it though, "drilling concentric holes" theory suggests using the larger drill first.
This will allow the smaller drill to track well, since its chisel can do its job standing on solid "ground".
Pilot drilling is a misinterpreted technique, since the pilot should have a diameter smaller than the chisel edge's length of the next drill.
And if one likes a drilling challenge, deep drilling titanium will make stainless feel like 2007 aluminium :)...
Oooh! And I have a question: what is the definition of a "real" machinist?
Perhaps another idea for the design would be to use something like a setscrew to hold the small rod in place? Add a flat to the small rod for bonus marks?
For sure! That would work well, I think
I have never seen brass tipped stet screws. Nice idea. Did you make them or are they somewhere available?
You can buy them. I got ‘em at McMaster
Would it be possible to solve the problem of the rod not having enough space to actually touch off on the collet block by making another rod with a reduced diameter section at the tip, so it can clear the knob? Or is there not enough space around the knob to do that?
In regards to making a single flute ball end cutter, could you not silver solder a ball bearing to the end of a piece of rod and then grind the ball into the cutter configuration? That way the curvature would be perfect.
AvE sent me. She be one badass metal maker. And Blondihacks is skilled too. 🛠⚒️🧰💪
Ms Blondi, I'm not a machinist (but I am an engineer) and there is something about machining and your method of instruction that is fascinating. Can you please tell us the details of making a tapered part in the lathe. I know this is done by carriage movement but it seems that since the drive shaft drives the tool holder forward only a straight cut is possible. The carriage and the tool would have to move at the same time and at different rates. I don't understand. Thanks..
Two common methods of turning tapers: 1) offsetting the tailstock toward the operator moves the tail of the workpiece closer to the cutting tool resulting in a taper. The other method is with a taper attachment that mounts to the machine and moves the cross slide as the machine travels. There is a very old book, "how to run a lathe", by South Bend Co, long out of print, which can be free downloaded off the Web. It is an easily understandable read which will give you much info.
I like the big blue door stop you have hanging behind the mill.
Congratulation for your video: i have a milling machine similar then your, ( My Is SIEG SX3L), could You please say me what Is It the white Grease that You used on your drill bit? I want to use It me too!! Cheers from Italy!! Alberto 😁🇮🇹
I have been doing metal work most of my life. I have had a very successful metal fabrication company for decades, and sometimes with as many as 200 employees, and currently about 80. We have lathes, CNC and manual mills, lots of welders, press brakes, saws, and all the rest. My mission has been to hire mostly young people with no skills and teach them the basic of having a job, and specifically working with metal, and making things from scratch to finished product. We work mostly in stainless steel.
I love your channel and have learned a great deal in just the month or so I have been watching. We have an unusual number of women working for us in fabrication jobs. My machinists, laser operators, and supervisors are mostly women. Not on purpose. It just worked out that way. I try to instill in these young people the desire and passion to work in metal and hopefully start their own business some day. I will be showing them your channel as inspiration. I love your intelligence, clear way of teaching, and especially your humor and willingness to show and explain the mistakes you make. That is so valuable to us learning from you. I wish you the best in the future and please keep doing what you do and how yo do it. Very impressive.
That’s fantastic! I love to see women in manufacturing and fabrication. Thanks for sharing!