I'm 73 years young . If I would have had access to u tub and People like you and Mr.Peat my life's work would have taken a different path. Keep showing ALL of the build good and bad it is a learning experience for you and use. Thank you for the videos!! Bill
The best teacher I've ever met told me one thing: If you don't try to do anything, you'll never make a mistake ... but you'll never do anything. If you don't make mistakes by trying you won't learn anything. If you are ashamed of your mistakes and don't show them to others, they won't learn anything. I found another good teacher.
I know I keep mentioning my (late) step-father since he was one of the finest machine shop teachers I've ever known, and when you mentioned air hoses in your shop, it really rang a bell with me. Pop never had an air hose anywhere near his machines in his classroom/shop. He capped off all the air lines but ONE and that one air hose was off in a corner. All the machines were cleaned with brushes... just like you're doing. I also like your filing left handed at the lathe instead of reaching over the chuck. Everyone does it and it makes me crazy to see it.
Well done Quinn 👍😎👍. Finally - a UA-cam machinist who explains and demonstrates that in most instances slitting saws should be used at full depth. Thank you. Joel.....
They always wobble, meaning only a few teeth are cutting. I tried to make a "almost" perfect arbor, still wobbles. I bound one up trying to cut SS, shattered like glass.
I had an apprentice from the West Indies. Part of putting a machine together was taking it apart taking pictures measuring everything and reassembly. He couldn’t say DEPTH he called it the DEATH MIC. He’s now a journeyman millwright and they will always be known as the Death mic when I work with him
Loved watching this. First thing I ever made on my lathe when I got it (apart from a couple of plastic bits) was a replacement rod for the side of the second-hand crib I'd bought for my second child. It was a 900mm long, 6mm diameter (3ft by 1/4inch, roughly) rod with a knurled knob on one end and threaded M6 on the other... in 303 stainless. Oooh boy did I learn a lot! Proud of that part.
When I was an intern in a physics lab many years ago, among my responsibilities was to drill little vacuum relief holes through those stainless steel optical shafts. I did this in a machine shop surrounded by half a dozen professional machinists none on whom ever told me anything about work hardening or anchor lube or the importance of being right in center. Arrrrrrgh. Anyway, thanks to Quinn, now I know!
@@Blondihacks 2nd this, stainless really does have a habit of piling up with dry fasteners. It would be a shame for your wicked cool vise stop to meet such an undeserving fate. Thanks for the stellar content
Doubly important for NPT and other tapered connections. I’ve lightly hand screwed SS NPT fittings before and have them gall up on me so bad I ended up having get the torch out to get them apart. Double trouble because the hoses were custom order items with a 5wk lead time. Vacuum grease and PTFE paste work well in addition to your standard anti-seizes.
@@fredgenius not quite. Mating threaded components of the same alloy - especially stainless - are more prone to galling. A 304 stainless bolt with a 400 series stainless threaded hole will be better than a 304 with a 304, but you should always use a sufficient thread lubricant with stainless fasteners whether they are being installed in like or dissimilar material
as a beginner, this video scares the crap out of me! Especially with the stainless... however, I despite loving the design, I might just go in from the other side all the way through the clamping thread hole and use 4140. Thank you for pushing the envelope Quinn, its has so many lessons baked in! Quality bolts? Never imagined this, lessons learned.
A very pleasant watch. Thanks for that. I appreciate your references to Stefan G. and including the various foibles of the process that we all encounter. I've learned to make some extra blanks when I'm puttering at things so I can have a do-over. I've learned several things from you already. Keep up the great videos and thanks again.
Hi Quinn, Congratulations are in order! In my books anyway. You’re one of the first I see to use a thread tap properly. By that, I mean rotating it back to break off the chips. So many I see just wind the poor tap in the whole way. I was taught many years ago, and was to the point of wondering if modern thread taps are different! :) Love the show. Rx
Oh on ss 303 ,304 i use peanut oil for tapping was an old machinist told me about it plus if it smoke it make the shop smell better than old cutting oil
Great video, thanks. A better way to attached the ball: ball should be smaller than the bar in diameter. with a common drill bit (same dia. as the ball), drill a hole 3/4 ball's diameter deep. Clean parts for oil free, and pour few drops of locktite ( I used 270). drop the ball in, and bend the "lip" around towards the center with a small hammer. rigidity is guaranteed. when I did mine, I used 5mm ball and 6 mm bar. (sorry for my English) thanks again.
That's a neat little tool. Good video too, of course! And thank you for knocking off the vibration gauge. It was frustrating. Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
You do such a great job explaining things to those that might not know anything about machining. Explaining what a vise stop is would have never even crossed my mind because It's so common to me that I don't realize others might not know!
Thanks UA-cam algorithm! Great video! This feels like This Old Tony mixed with Emily Graslie from The Brain Scoop. I look forward to watching the rest of your videos!
Hi Quinn watched this vid last night, after lunch today I wandered out to the man cave and made one very similar. My vice has only got liiiiiitle up stands so I could no do the drill through bit. But your clear instructions on how to do the operations helped mine work just so. Thanks from the UK
Like other(s) I too didn't know to use slitting saws full depth so thank you for that. I was, however, told by an exert to always cut a dovetail in one pass. You first machine the trench for which I use tipped tooling on the mill and run it as fast as possible and watch the blue chips fly. Then run through with the HSS dovetail cutter going much slower than theory would dictate and very slow feed with plenty of coolant (to both cool and to flush chips away). Of course you need to plan this cut very carefully to ensure that you end up 'on size', but I have had great success with this technique and the quality of the finish was spectacular compared agaist my expectations.
Nice work Quinn! In case you're interested: A little trick I learned for tapping stainless is to actually drill the hole 0.1mm bigger than needed. Gives the tap a little more room
A suggestion. Never use 6-32 of you can help it. This is the most often broken tap because the threads are too course for the diameter. 6-40 always a better choice.
In electronics 6-32 is one of the most common sizes, so I had to learn to work with it. I agree that it's problematic, but if one is careful, success usually obtains. It helps to cheat a little by going up a thousandths or so on drill size as holding power requirements are frequently lower, and the extra clearance helps prevent seizing the tap. And just work carefully.
Hey Quinn. Good vid as always. I’m a newbie and your vids have been informative. Appreciate it. Just a tip... to attach ball to your rod. Put the ball on the tip of a drill Chuck with NO LUBE. Put the rod in your Chuck and press the two together with a fair amount of force. Spin it around 600 and increase the pressure slowly. Instant friction weld. Just watch carefully and the second the bearing spins at the same rate as the stock... stop the late. Works like a charm!
its 4am after a long day of screwing around with the 3d printer and the lathe, and lo and behold as I go to turn the comp off, new blondihacks video!! All you dang creators overseas pick the perfect time to upload dont you? :P haha
Hi Quinn, nice job! If you try a V2.0, stop rods with a dog-leg are very handy, this way they can swivel up or down to suit your job or obstructions. And a Cam Lock lever could also help - threadlock the bolt in to save your threads and adjust the cam lever for clamping pressure. It'll make it a lot quicker to operate. Stay safe and well :)
Awesome stuff. Tip: cover your air blower with a rag and you can really hook in without blowing stuff all over the place. Try to always cut against the fixed jaw. Not such a problem with light cuts but one day it'll push hard enough to dislodge the part. Haha.
Great video!!!!! I learn a lot from you!!! Brass tipped set screws,,, you can just drop in a little bit of brass rod into the hole ahead of the set screw,, or copper.
Cool project. To get it to work with the collet block try putting a parallel between the block and the vise, perhaps this will allow the stop rod to contact the corner of the block.
Only today have I found your channel. It’s nearly perfect - a great voice giving practical info. One thing I’ve noticed over the years is an attitude that sneers at making things for yourself. Indeed, the shops I’ve been in have been 100% CNC, and what little “traditional “ equipment was covered in dust and lacking in fixtures.
The split line does not need to call perfectly on the end of the thread, you could simply overshoot the through hole a bit. So long as the thread is anywhere to the right of the slit, you're golden
To make the collet block set up better, turn another rod that is milled away (or offset turned) for slightly more than the length of the collet nut. Easy peasy! An L-shaped rod that can go down into the vise is also useful. Totally agree on the anti-seize for stainless--I use Tef-Gel which is sold in boat shops. It's super sticky-goopy but clear and teflon-based. Neither screw needs to come out very far, so you won't notice the messy anti-seize.
69 youngster here, hobby machinist with PM25 PM1127 and PM833. But I have worked in few machine shops as electronic control engineer (Sensors, instruments, controls programming PLCs etc) May I suggest a few tips and tricks that I have learned over the years? Set screws: get a piece of copper wire from say 2/16, 2/14, 2/12 etc... I keep just a few inches of the ground wire in various guauges. Now whenever I have to install a setscrew, I ALWAYS put a short cut piece of wire in the whole before inserting the set screw. This way you will never mar a shaft, a keyway etc A millwright I met was using BBs for air carbine and pistol! Never had a problem getting a pulley off a shaft after this trick! Super glue: once the parts you want to glue are absolutely free of grease, even finger grease, wipe them with a damp cloth and dip the part in baking soda powder (it used to be a cow on the box, now it's a strong man.... you know what I am talking about), Put the parts together and drop the superglue at the joint. Use the thinner type. The physic behind this is that superglue will bind each baking soda grains to each other and to the surface, augmenting very much the actual surface contact. It's at the microscopic level but believe me it works! Also, you can fill a hole with layers of soda and superglue then drill and tap into this to repair a damaged screw thread. This work very well in cast iron! Keep those good VDO comming! I learn a lot from you... Luc
That green stuff is said to be made for stainless because it won't attack the micro structure of the steel I quit using that green snot 40 years ago. No good as far as tapping fluid. At home I use molydee for tapping but very expensive . Mostly I use Used ATF. for cutting oil
love to watch you work wish i had half of your tools i have to use my drill press and a cheap cross feed vice, but i only do very minor and coarse milling around the farm. great vid BH
I wonder if for fixing the ball bearings a Liion battery spot welder might do the job? For a totally clean fix it would require an external trigger button (usually a simple soldering job) as you would want the ball being firmly contacted while being pressed firmly to the hemispherical indent. A soft copper sheet insulated from a vice at the back face and connected to the anode and the bar insulated from the vice also but connected firmly to the cathode. Once happy with the set up a couple of short pulses might well give an even more solid fixing than CA glue. Just a thought.
Could always run a triangle file down the inside right angle to remove the fillet :) Love the vids! Keep up the content and I’m looking forward to the next steam engine vid
Excellent video, very educational and fun too! Thoughts about retaining the ball bearing (some duplicates other posts): 1. Grind off some of the polished chrome from the surfaces you will be gluing or soldering / brazing; roughen the surface a bit 2. Drill out the end of the rod, put in a ball bearing, crimp or peen 3. Silver solder or braze And @George Mann Sr. suggested using a (I assume valve) pushrod from a gasoline engine. Gas engines come in many different sizes; might talk to mechanics and to small engine repair places. I'd think you would want a diameter you can find under/over reamers for.
Nice video on a really useful part, I have made one some years ago but always follow your channel. However, ref going ful depth first time on slitting saws is new to me! (you can always learn something can't you?), tried it and well, bang on! Thanks for the tip.
5:10 if you run your endmill on the front of the part going left to right (Cutter movement `aka "climb milling") you will wind up with less of a burr than the way you went. Minor thing really but it can save time deburring the part when finished.
While making optical mounts, I stumbled on a simple, reliable method to capture a ball bearing in a rod or screw. Basically, you use a twist drill to bore a hole slightly deeper than the radius of the ball bearing. You then raise the lathe tool above center and use it to fold the rim over. Basically ‘peening’ the edge & folding it onto the ball bearing. A little geometry tells us that the drill depth to the center of the ball is: Depth = R / cos( 90 - alpha/2 ) R = ball bearing radius Alpha = drill angle {135, 115, 90,….} This has the benefit of allowing the ball to move relative to the rod or screw. It is certainly worth a try…..
You are such a happy machinist! Wheee... Aside from that, I learned how remove a set screw that gets stuck. Thanks. I could have saved alot of time if i knew that trick awhile ago.
You might want to look into purchasing a shell mill for surfacing. They are fantastic and give you a wonderful surface finish. Also they are not very expensive for sizes up to about 2 inches. A 2 inch one will run around $50, which includes inserts.
Quinn, I just stumbled on your UA-cam videos. Great and enjoyable. I cheat sometimes on making tooling.....IE, I wonder if an old push rod from an engine valve train would work for a balled end rod? Has a ball on one end at least. Just a thought? I realize it's all about producing these parts on our own. Anywho, thanks for the videos!
Silver soldering (plumber's solder) or silver brazing? Soft soldering would be fine but the high temp of brazing would draw the hardness from the balls. And the plating on the balls may be resistant to solder.
I know this is an older video but someone might find this useful. When I need to custom size bolts on the grinder, I chuck the head up in my cordless drill and run the drill as I grind the bolt. This keeps it fairly even and you can make a quick, clean chamfer by angling the drill when you are done so the bolt starts easily.
Perhaps another idea for the design would be to use something like a setscrew to hold the small rod in place? Add a flat to the small rod for bonus marks?
303 is free machining 304 ,316, 321 etc non hardening . What happens when you dwell with your drill, is you friction weld your hss drill with the stainless that is why it becomes hard . Some kind of alloy.
I don't know if the rod and ball are stainless, but when using most Loctite on stainless, it is important to use primer first. Yes, absence of air/presence of metal is key, but with stainless, the anode/cathode reaction is missing like in typical carbon steels. I work with stainless regularly in mechanical applications and could not figure this problem out until I called Loctite and spoke with an engineer. It may possibly have worked with primer, but then the ball is just seated with countersink at the end of the rod, so who knows.
The biggest problem sith galling comes from when both parts are made from the same alloy. The problem can be reduced or eliminated by using another grade of SS, or carbon steel, brass, etc for the bolt. Lube or ant-seize is still recommended.
Expertly machined, as ever, but I'm wondering whether the initial problems with the bolt were partly because it has too much stainless steel to bend. A simple mod would be to saw a vertical slit a small distance on either side of the bolt threads so that only the central third or so of the length is being flexed. That would transmit more force to the rod, making the clamping more efficient.
Greetings from South Africa!! Recently got myself a milling machine, so your videos are very helpful for me as a beginner!! In a few videos I saw you using a small triangular square to square up work pieces. If you don't mind please share make or link to these mini squares. Greatly appreciated. Johan
Great tool, i shall attempt to make 1, Quinn ? you list a lot of tools and accessories that you use, BUT i cannot see a link for the Scrotchbrite wheel. could you possibly link please ? Thank you :)
Congratulation for your video: i have a milling machine similar then your, ( My Is SIEG SX3L), could You please say me what Is It the white Grease that You used on your drill bit? I want to use It me too!! Cheers from Italy!! Alberto 😁🇮🇹
Ah, now I see why I've been having trouble drilling 316 stainless. Thanks for the tips regarding drilling stainless. Just one question though. Is that toothpaste fluoride free?
I'm 73 years young . If I would have had access to u tub and People like you and Mr.Peat my life's work would have taken a different path. Keep showing ALL of the build good and bad it is a learning experience for you and use. Thank you for the videos!! Bill
Lmao mr. Peat
I watch Doublecayn he is really good
I do hope you meant "UA-cam". Access to her tub would be...
@@scottwillis5434 Well I apologize for ruffling your spelling feathers. But you got my drift . So whats the harm?
You did just fine my friend. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. 😊🌎✨
The best teacher I've ever met told me one thing:
If you don't try to do anything, you'll never make a mistake ... but you'll never do anything.
If you don't make mistakes by trying you won't learn anything.
If you are ashamed of your mistakes and don't show them to others, they won't learn anything.
I found another good teacher.
I know I keep mentioning my (late) step-father since he was one of the finest machine shop teachers I've ever known, and when you mentioned air hoses in your shop, it really rang a bell with me. Pop never had an air hose anywhere near his machines in his classroom/shop. He capped off all the air lines but ONE and that one air hose was off in a corner. All the machines were cleaned with brushes... just like you're doing. I also like your filing left handed at the lathe instead of reaching over the chuck. Everyone does it and it makes me crazy to see it.
Seriously, I love that you say, "real machinists" as if you aren't one. Great work.
Well done Quinn 👍😎👍. Finally - a UA-cam machinist who explains and demonstrates that in most instances slitting saws should be used at full depth. Thank you. Joel.....
They always wobble, meaning only a few teeth are cutting. I tried to make a "almost" perfect arbor, still wobbles. I bound one up trying to cut SS, shattered like glass.
This Brit apprentice very much appreciates the metric conversions 😊
And this anti-Imperialist American does as well!
@@DavidLindes Uh... K 🤨
Besides your technical aptitude I just love the way you talk!!
I had an apprentice from the West Indies. Part of putting a machine together was taking it apart taking pictures measuring everything and reassembly. He couldn’t say DEPTH he called it the DEATH MIC. He’s now a journeyman millwright and they will always be known as the Death mic when I work with him
I learned some stuff again. Thanks.
Good to see the hacksaw, builds character!
Loved watching this. First thing I ever made on my lathe when I got it (apart from a couple of plastic bits) was a replacement rod for the side of the second-hand crib I'd bought for my second child. It was a 900mm long, 6mm diameter (3ft by 1/4inch, roughly) rod with a knurled knob on one end and threaded M6 on the other... in 303 stainless. Oooh boy did I learn a lot! Proud of that part.
Quinn, I used the Anchor lube today on some 304 SS. Turned, drilled, tapped and parted off 2 pieces with no funky smell or smoke. Thanks for the tip!
When I was an intern in a physics lab many years ago, among my responsibilities was to drill little vacuum relief holes through those stainless steel optical shafts. I did this in a machine shop surrounded by half a dozen professional machinists none on whom ever told me anything about work hardening or anchor lube or the importance of being right in center. Arrrrrrgh. Anyway, thanks to Quinn, now I know!
Add a touch of anti-seize to the screw. SS is terrible for galling
Good tip!
@@Blondihacks 2nd this, stainless really does have a habit of piling up with dry fasteners. It would be a shame for your wicked cool vise stop to meet such an undeserving fate. Thanks for the stellar content
Doubly important for NPT and other tapered connections. I’ve lightly hand screwed SS NPT fittings before and have them gall up on me so bad I ended up having get the torch out to get them apart. Double trouble because the hoses were custom order items with a 5wk lead time.
Vacuum grease and PTFE paste work well in addition to your standard anti-seizes.
Or use a stainless screw...
@@fredgenius not quite. Mating threaded components of the same alloy - especially stainless - are more prone to galling. A 304 stainless bolt with a 400 series stainless threaded hole will be better than a 304 with a 304, but you should always use a sufficient thread lubricant with stainless fasteners whether they are being installed in like or dissimilar material
Thanks Quinn, I never knew that you should use splitting saws full depth. Useful tool.
as a beginner, this video scares the crap out of me! Especially with the stainless... however, I despite loving the design, I might just go in from the other side all the way through the clamping thread hole and use 4140. Thank you for pushing the envelope Quinn, its has so many lessons baked in! Quality bolts? Never imagined this, lessons learned.
Although you didn't do it here, I was reminded that maybe I should hate you some. I find myself saying "Yahtzee!" a lot when cutting off parts! 😊😊
A very pleasant watch. Thanks for that. I appreciate your references to Stefan G. and including the various foibles of the process that we all encounter. I've learned to make some extra blanks when I'm puttering at things so I can have a do-over.
I've learned several things from you already. Keep up the great videos and thanks again.
Hi Quinn,
Congratulations are in order! In my books anyway. You’re one of the first I see to use a thread tap properly. By that, I mean rotating it back to break off the chips. So many I see just wind the poor tap in the whole way. I was taught many years ago, and was to the point of wondering if modern thread taps are different! :)
Love the show. Rx
Failing to break the chips, especially for small taps, provides feedback VERY quickly. Hopefully one learns from it (or gets instructions before).
Good video. A tiny bit of silver solder under the ball would work, and best of all be permanent. Gotta make one of these.
This gave me an idea on how to improve my homemade carriage stop that I use on my lathe! Thank you Blondihacks!
Oh on ss 303 ,304 i use peanut oil for tapping was an old machinist told me about it plus if it smoke it make the shop smell better than old cutting oil
Great video, thanks.
A better way to attached the ball: ball should be smaller than the bar in diameter.
with a common drill bit (same dia. as the ball), drill a hole 3/4 ball's diameter deep. Clean parts for oil free, and pour few drops of locktite ( I used 270). drop the ball in, and bend the "lip" around towards the center with a small hammer. rigidity is guaranteed. when I did mine, I used 5mm ball and 6 mm bar. (sorry for my English)
thanks again.
Gotta love the weekend uploads. Love the video, always a handy tool to have in any shop.
That's a neat little tool.
Good video too, of course!
And thank you for knocking off the vibration gauge. It was frustrating.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Hi Quinn,
Good to see one being made for stainless... I like the slitting saw tip... Thank you.
Take care
Paul,,
You do such a great job explaining things to those that might not know anything about machining. Explaining what a vise stop is would have never even crossed my mind because It's so common to me that I don't realize others might not know!
Like me... I didn't know about vise stops... I use one on my metal band saw... & A stop on my radial arm wood saw.
Thanks UA-cam algorithm! Great video! This feels like This Old Tony mixed with Emily Graslie from The Brain Scoop. I look forward to watching the rest of your videos!
Channel some Robin and silver solder those bearings on and you're golden. Great work!
Neat trick with the glue on the Allen wrench.
I’m just glad it worked. 😅
@@Blondihacks Me too, fishing that fastener out otherwise would have been its own video!
Hi Quinn watched this vid last night, after lunch today I wandered out to the man cave and made one very similar. My vice has only got liiiiiitle up stands so I could no do the drill through bit. But your clear instructions on how to do the operations helped mine work just so. Thanks from the UK
Enjoyed watching you do this project with your typical expertise and humor. Thanks for the video.
Like other(s) I too didn't know to use slitting saws full depth so thank you for that. I was, however, told by an exert to always cut a dovetail in one pass. You first machine the trench for which I use tipped tooling on the mill and run it as fast as possible and watch the blue chips fly. Then run through with the HSS dovetail cutter going much slower than theory would dictate and very slow feed with plenty of coolant (to both cool and to flush chips away). Of course you need to plan this cut very carefully to ensure that you end up 'on size', but I have had great success with this technique and the quality of the finish was spectacular compared agaist my expectations.
Nice work Quinn!
In case you're interested: A little trick I learned for tapping stainless is to actually drill the hole 0.1mm bigger than needed. Gives the tap a little more room
I love your scrap drawer!
A suggestion.
Never use 6-32 of you can help it.
This is the most often broken tap because the threads are too course for the diameter. 6-40 always a better choice.
agree on 6-32 being a poor choice of thread. 6-40 isn't common in my hardware stash, so I would have chosen 8-32 or M4
@@grumpyoldman5368
If you don't have 6-40 screws in your stash, I suggest getting some. A lot easier than dealing with broken taps and broken screws.
In electronics 6-32 is one of the most common sizes, so I had to learn to work with it. I agree that it's problematic, but if one is careful, success usually obtains. It helps to cheat a little by going up a thousandths or so on drill size as holding power requirements are frequently lower, and the extra clearance helps prevent seizing the tap. And just work carefully.
But i agree that there are better choices if they are available to you.
Hey Quinn. Good vid as always. I’m a newbie and your vids have been informative. Appreciate it. Just a tip... to attach ball to your rod. Put the ball on the tip of a drill Chuck with NO LUBE. Put the rod in your Chuck and press the two together with a fair amount of force. Spin it around 600 and increase the pressure slowly. Instant friction weld. Just watch carefully and the second the bearing spins at the same rate as the stock... stop the late. Works like a charm!
Hi Quinn. I love your videos. I didn't know that cutting would work harden a material, but it makes sense in retrospect.
Great build. I find a vise stop to be an absolute necessity.
I learn at least three things every time I watch one of these videos!
its 4am after a long day of screwing around with the 3d printer and the lathe, and lo and behold as I go to turn the comp off, new blondihacks video!! All you dang creators overseas pick the perfect time to upload dont you? :P haha
Hi Quinn, nice job! If you try a V2.0, stop rods with a dog-leg are very handy, this way they can swivel up or down to suit your job or obstructions. And a Cam Lock lever could also help - threadlock the bolt in to save your threads and adjust the cam lever for clamping pressure. It'll make it a lot quicker to operate. Stay safe and well :)
All good ideas!
Awesome stuff.
Tip: cover your air blower with a rag and you can really hook in without blowing stuff all over the place.
Try to always cut against the fixed jaw. Not such a problem with light cuts but one day it'll push hard enough to dislodge the part. Haha.
Great video!!!!! I learn a lot from you!!! Brass tipped set screws,,, you can just drop in a little bit of brass rod into the hole ahead of the set screw,, or copper.
Cool project. To get it to work with the collet block try putting a parallel between the block and the vise, perhaps this will allow the stop rod to contact the corner of the block.
Only today have I found your channel. It’s nearly perfect - a great voice giving practical info.
One thing I’ve noticed over the years is an attitude that sneers at making things for yourself. Indeed, the shops I’ve been in have been 100% CNC, and what little “traditional “ equipment was covered in dust and lacking in fixtures.
The split line does not need to call perfectly on the end of the thread, you could simply overshoot the through hole a bit. So long as the thread is anywhere to the right of the slit, you're golden
To make the collet block set up better, turn another rod that is milled away (or offset turned) for slightly more than the length of the collet nut. Easy peasy! An L-shaped rod that can go down into the vise is also useful.
Totally agree on the anti-seize for stainless--I use Tef-Gel which is sold in boat shops. It's super sticky-goopy but clear and teflon-based. Neither screw needs to come out very far, so you won't notice the messy anti-seize.
69 youngster here, hobby machinist with PM25 PM1127 and PM833.
But I have worked in few machine shops as electronic control engineer (Sensors, instruments, controls programming PLCs etc) May I suggest a few tips and tricks that I have learned over the years?
Set screws: get a piece of copper wire from say 2/16, 2/14, 2/12 etc... I keep just a few inches of the ground wire in various guauges.
Now whenever I have to install a setscrew, I ALWAYS put a short cut piece of wire in the whole before inserting the set screw. This way you will never mar a shaft, a keyway etc
A millwright I met was using BBs for air carbine and pistol!
Never had a problem getting a pulley off a shaft after this trick!
Super glue: once the parts you want to glue are absolutely free of grease, even finger grease, wipe them with a damp cloth and dip the part in baking soda powder (it used to be a cow on the box, now it's a strong man.... you know what I am talking about),
Put the parts together and drop the superglue at the joint. Use the thinner type.
The physic behind this is that superglue will bind each baking soda grains to each other and to the surface, augmenting very much the actual surface contact. It's at the microscopic level but believe me it works!
Also, you can fill a hole with layers of soda and superglue then drill and tap into this to repair a damaged screw thread. This work very well in cast iron!
Keep those good VDO comming! I learn a lot from you...
Luc
Great vid Quinn. You can slit your flexture hole offcenter. If you put it tangent to the bore you’d gain a few threads.
Good point!
That green stuff is said to be made for stainless because it won't attack the micro structure of the steel I quit using that green snot 40 years ago. No good as far as tapping fluid. At home I use molydee for tapping but very expensive . Mostly I use Used ATF. for cutting oil
Because chamfers just make the world a better place. Quinn August 2020 -- soon to be a common saying.
Nice piece.
Made a similar one but with a threaded bolt for adjusting.
love to watch you work wish i had half of your tools i have to use my drill press and a cheap cross feed vice, but i only do very minor and coarse milling around the farm. great vid BH
Very good project, well explained and with your usual humour . Thank you
I wonder if for fixing the ball bearings a Liion battery spot welder might do the job? For a totally clean fix it would require an external trigger button (usually a simple soldering job) as you would want the ball being firmly contacted while being pressed firmly to the hemispherical indent.
A soft copper sheet insulated from a vice at the back face and connected to the anode and the bar insulated from the vice also but connected firmly to the cathode. Once happy with the set up a couple of short pulses might well give an even more solid fixing than CA glue.
Just a thought.
Could always run a triangle file down the inside right angle to remove the fillet :) Love the vids! Keep up the content and I’m looking forward to the next steam engine vid
Could not the fillet tend to round the vice edge?
Excellent video, very educational and fun too!
Thoughts about retaining the ball bearing (some duplicates other posts):
1. Grind off some of the polished chrome from the surfaces you will be gluing or soldering / brazing; roughen the surface a bit
2. Drill out the end of the rod, put in a ball bearing, crimp or peen
3. Silver solder or braze
And @George Mann Sr. suggested using a (I assume valve) pushrod from a gasoline engine. Gas engines come in many different sizes; might talk to mechanics and to small engine repair places. I'd think you would want a diameter you can find under/over reamers for.
Nice video on a really useful part, I have made one some years ago but always follow your channel. However, ref going ful depth first time on slitting saws is new to me! (you can always learn something can't you?), tried it and well, bang on!
Thanks for the tip.
5:10 if you run your endmill on the front of the part going left to right (Cutter movement `aka "climb milling") you will wind up with less of a burr than the way you went. Minor thing really but it can save time deburring the part when finished.
Great little project, well done!
You had far to much fun playing with sliding bits with this project. 😀
You got a like for the full depth cutting info on the slitting saw. Thanks
I would give you a second like if I could for the superglue Allen wrench trick
Stainless isn't too bad, I work with enough Inconel to enjoy stainless of all flavors :)
Keep up the good work and cheers from Cleveland Ohio.
While making optical mounts, I stumbled on a simple, reliable method to capture a ball bearing in a rod or screw. Basically, you use a twist drill to bore a hole slightly deeper than the radius of the ball bearing. You then raise the lathe tool above center and use it to fold the rim over. Basically ‘peening’ the edge & folding it onto the ball bearing.
A little geometry tells us that the drill depth to the center of the ball is:
Depth = R / cos( 90 - alpha/2 )
R = ball bearing radius
Alpha = drill angle {135, 115, 90,….}
This has the benefit of allowing the ball to move relative to the rod or screw.
It is certainly worth a try…..
Always love to watch you work!
Good tip on the slitting saw !👍🇺🇸
I'm not sure if you're talking about machining stainless or the morning bathroom rotation.
Cobalt drills work excellent in stainless.
Thank you Quinn you are and awesome instructor!
You are such a happy machinist! Wheee... Aside from that, I learned how remove a set screw that gets stuck. Thanks. I could have saved alot of time if i knew that trick awhile ago.
I like the big blue door stop you have hanging behind the mill.
I'm watching the whole thing before I comment ...well done! Love it! 😁
Cheers
You might want to look into purchasing a shell mill for surfacing. They are fantastic and give you a wonderful surface finish. Also they are not very expensive for sizes up to about 2 inches. A 2 inch one will run around $50, which includes inserts.
Sounds like someone missed my whole video about shell mills. 😁
@@Blondihacks Sorry, I just found out about your channel about 2 weeks ago. I haven't had chance to watch all your videos yet.
Quinn, I just stumbled on your UA-cam videos. Great and enjoyable. I cheat sometimes on making tooling.....IE, I wonder if an old push rod from an engine valve train would work for a balled end rod? Has a ball on one end at least. Just a thought? I realize it's all about producing these parts on our own. Anywho, thanks for the videos!
Great video I love it........ oh wait I have to watch it first😉 but I know it will be funny and great
I see a radius turning tool in your future !
You did a good job. I would consider Silver Sauder as an option . Thanks for really good idea !!!
Silver soldering (plumber's solder) or silver brazing? Soft soldering would be fine but the high temp of brazing would draw the hardness from the balls. And the plating on the balls may be resistant to solder.
I know this is an older video but someone might find this useful. When I need to custom size bolts on the grinder, I chuck the head up in my cordless drill and run the drill as I grind the bolt. This keeps it fairly even and you can make a quick, clean chamfer by angling the drill when you are done so the bolt starts easily.
Perhaps another idea for the design would be to use something like a setscrew to hold the small rod in place? Add a flat to the small rod for bonus marks?
For sure! That would work well, I think
My mind started working out a single screw method for holding the rod, and clamping the stop to the vise. I like the looks of this. Very...... svelte.
literally made one yesterday! what a coincidence.
AvE sent me. She be one badass metal maker. And Blondihacks is skilled too. 🛠⚒️🧰💪
303 is free machining 304 ,316, 321 etc non hardening . What happens when you dwell with your drill, is you friction weld your hss drill with the stainless that is why it becomes hard . Some kind of alloy.
"... As you can see, it's clearly 1 thou over size." Clearly. Of course.
😬
Sounds like someone didn't pay enough for their bionic implants!
I don't know if the rod and ball are stainless, but when using most Loctite on stainless, it is important to use primer first. Yes, absence of air/presence of metal is key, but with stainless, the anode/cathode reaction is missing like in typical carbon steels. I work with stainless regularly in mechanical applications and could not figure this problem out until I called Loctite and spoke with an engineer. It may possibly have worked with primer, but then the ball is just seated with countersink at the end of the rod, so who knows.
Good job. With stainless you should use anti seize on threads as it is prone to galling and bolts can lock solid when tightened.
The biggest problem sith galling comes from when both parts are made from the same alloy. The problem can be reduced or eliminated by using another grade of SS, or carbon steel, brass, etc for the bolt. Lube or ant-seize is still recommended.
Maybe put the rod in the bit grinder to round it?
She wanted to use a ball bearing because it is hardened and perfectly round.
Nice job. We posted this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Expertly machined, as ever, but I'm wondering whether the initial problems with the bolt were partly because it has too much stainless steel to bend. A simple mod would be to saw a vertical slit a small distance on either side of the bolt threads so that only the central third or so of the length is being flexed. That would transmit more force to the rod, making the clamping more efficient.
Greetings from South Africa!! Recently got myself a milling machine, so your videos are very helpful for me as a beginner!! In a few videos I saw you using a small triangular square to square up work pieces. If you don't mind please share make or link to these mini squares. Greatly appreciated. Johan
very nice vice stop good job i always learn somthing from you. keep up the great videos. thanks.
I’m not waiting 25 minutes to comment... well done! Love it! 🤣
Great tool, i shall attempt to make 1, Quinn ? you list a lot of tools and accessories that you use, BUT i cannot see a link for the Scrotchbrite wheel. could you possibly link please ? Thank you :)
Congratulation for your video: i have a milling machine similar then your, ( My Is SIEG SX3L), could You please say me what Is It the white Grease that You used on your drill bit? I want to use It me too!! Cheers from Italy!! Alberto 😁🇮🇹
Ah, now I see why I've been having trouble drilling 316 stainless. Thanks for the tips regarding drilling stainless. Just one question though. Is that toothpaste fluoride free?
Great work and teaching skills!
As much as I'm here for the machining, I was waiting for the 'silly' mug merch shot. Where's the mug merch shot? I want my chuckle!! :-D
It’ll be back! I try to mix up the ads a little. 😁
@@Blondihacks yeah, its not the same without the "smug" shots..
You need a million subs your amazing
Aww thanks! I need a million more comments like this one. ☺️
A completely different approach compared to This Old Tony but just as pleasant to watch.
You are good! Excellent reaching.
A bit of shim between the clamp and the stop body would help the collet problem. Just enough to bypass the ring.
Blondi if you use some oil of wintergreen when drilling stainless it will save your bits.