🇸🇪Resealing Engine, Oil pump Volvo 240 Turbo Restoration Ep 3
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- Опубліковано 24 тра 2017
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Playlist with all episodes: goo.gl/RVePjY
"Bicycle Rights!"
On today's menu:
0:30 Braided -10AN braided hose how to
01:45 Oil pressure sender tee in OEM B230ft location
02:30 Oil Drain for any turbo on the B230ft, call it Soren's "universal" drain design.
03:46 Fisting a Holset Turbo from his 12 valve Cummins. Or was it 24 valve...
07:09 B230 Cam retainer plate from IPD. Make your own, it's cheaper.
07:50 Felpro Volvo rear main seals suck...
08:40 Oil pump overview. Spring is high pressure relieve. Check clearance between casing halves and between gears.
11:00 B230ft clutch nonsense, 8 puck sachs. The OEM style one works great with our setup.
12:13 Soren bought another Volvo 140, halfway to a 240 front end swap.
13:45 B230ft gets put back in our Volvo 240
14:35 Coolant hoses for non-water-cooled turbos. Easy peasy. just use NA radiator hoses. And intercooler piping...
Music: Prefekt - Numb ft. Johnning [Copyright Free]
EPISODE 1:
• 🇸🇪 Volvo 240 Turbo Res...
If you missed it, the video of us buying this car:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzZy6...
DRIVING VIDEO:
tinyurl.com/msw4qxf
CURRENT AMAZON RESTORATION:
tinyurl.com/mqzxhyb
INSTAGRAM:
@MrDavidBello
It's not a proper test drive unless it's late at night, you're fucking filthy and exhausted, and you've been awake for way too long.
Awesome you got the 240 Turbo running again
Yoshi fab has a fitting for that oil return line. Taps right in
She lives!! Awesome!
you need to check if the thrust bushing for the distributor is in the new engine under the distributor. its a small brass bushing the distributor gear rides on, if you dont have it the shaft of the distributor will break off. Great videos :D
how you learn so much about volvos
I wanna see it on the DYNO to see how worth it was!
you're awesome dude... keep it up...
I have an 83' 245 GLT with the same oil pressure sender hell. To solve this I employed a turbobrick's trick that was not my own (Similar to this but go further - www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192788 ). Basically you get more braided line and adapters to run a line from the block (use your favorite block fittings) to the oil pressure sending unit. The unit is then mounted somewhere around the cross member using a bracket you can fabricate using some pipe / conduit mounts from home depot. While not ideal since a pressure sender is on it's own dead end line... it'll free up a lot of room near the alternator. Just make sure you double check it with the engine running / revving. Some also have employed a remote oil cooler and tapped into the various plates. Same dead end argument applies because you're further away from the source.
nice dude!! almost there! since your not going to use those coolant hoses with the turbo coolant lines would you sell them to me I would really appreciate let me know man thanks!
Undecided Garage I have a feeling Soren will want to keep them for when this current turbo takes a poo
So just replaced my distributor cap/rotor/plug wires. Drove around a bit, on my way back home, lost power to lights, radio, gauges. Then engine stalled, the low oil pressure light came on and will not start. Wondering if when i replaced the distributor cap, I may have shifted that gear? Wondering why i lost electrical power?
+David Bello 2:00 Do you know where I could get the T tube thing to move the oil pressure sensor out of the way from the alternator? The treads are M14x1,5 on B230 right? The only ones i can find on Ebay are located in Australia and the seller don't offer international shipping. Or do you know an other way to get the sensor out of the way? Would be grateful for answers. :)
That is not a MAF (mass air flow) sensor it is an AMM (air mass meter) lol does the same thing i got crap for that all the time when i worked at a volvo repair shop also if you need any 240 parts hit me up i have a friend that had an entire warehouse full of everything you can think of... keep the videos coming!!!
Bret Garcia we need a 007 "AMM"
i have several send me an email with your address and i can send you one bretgarcia2000 at gmail
*mfw lion king 2 flashbacks*
Here in Sweden we all get rid of that AWFUL oil-return in the block. welding an fittings directly in the block or using one of many press-fit kits now available.
not to rain or your parade but most likely you WILL have issues with going the route that your going.
If you want to run high boost get another turbo also as the even the "7" exhausthousing will trap ALOT of heat in your engine and make massive backpressure. the b230 REALLY loves bigger turbos if you want to keep it together for a long time bigger is actually safer...
with a 18/19T you can have 17psi at under 2500 rpms.... a true rod and piston-killer for sure.....
would you know what can cause a radiator fan to not turn on when engine is hot, i have 2 radiator sensors that i have tried and seems like both of them don't turn on until engine is spilling coolant on the ground from the overflow tank. Also, my temp gauge inside the car shakes back and forth and doesn't stay steady like other cars of that age. 1993 volvo 940 non turbo station wagon, bosch injection pump.
TheScavengerben one way to test your sensors is an ohmmeter and a pot of boiling water. see what temp, if any, the contacts close to allow the radiator to turn on. Also, i know the late 240s have bad temp gauges, and many 940s just don't work at this point. you may have to change the temp sensor on the engine head or the gauge itself.
+TheScavengerben The first thing I'd look at would be the pressure cap on the overflow tank. It could be that the car is running at the right temperature but the pressure cap is old and the spring has got weak so it's venting coolant before the car is actually overheating. If the pressure cap is old then I'd replace it with a good quality new item as a matter of course as a lot of older vehicles are still running around with their original caps which are well past it by now. If the temperature gauge is jumping around it could well be that the voltage stabiliser on the back of the instrument panel has failed. I don't know if it's a replaceable part on a 940 of that age but I've come across the problem plenty of times before on other older cars where either the temperature gauge, the fuel gauge and often both flicker backwards and forwards as the alternator operates but swapping out the voltage stabiliser gets them working fine again. Other than that it is well worth checking the wiring to the temperature sensors, over time with heating and cooling the wiring takes a beating and it can get to the point where the conductor breaks down inside the insulation and as it moves with the engine it is making intermittent contact and causing the gauge to hop around. If any of the wiring feels hard and crispy it might be worth changing it for new wiring. If you're going to change out the temperature sensors I would suggest replacing all of them with good quality replacements, the one that operates the temperature gauge often gets replaced when it goes out but the other often gets left so it might well be the original part and no longer operating correctly and that can cause all sorts of strange heating/cooling behaviour in older Volvos...
and when i do check with the ohmmeter around what number am i trying to achieve i guess, if that makes any sense. or just as long as i see a number on the meter, that means it works.
is not that oil pressure sensor dual? on/off for oil lamp and analog for meter?
Previous owner had the oem pressure sensor hooked up there in the block, and the meter sending unit inline on a rubber hose that was feeding the turbo, screwed into the strut tower side. Therefore, I believe it is not a dual unit.
I once made the mistake swapping the connections, which destroyed the analog sensor inside.
You should get a new intercooler, the oem ones are shit
Adrian Austad this is an S80 intercooler. amazing how similar it looks to the b230ft ones
Oh ok, looked so similar to the 940 ones
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