This guy is like the total bro. I'm in the process of assembling my first motorized bicycle and it seems like anytime it comes from blackberries this guy shoots me straight no questions asked and when I do have some questions I want to bring up by the time I watched the video all the way through anything I was going to ask was addressed and this guy is just a true bro and he understands what we're going through
Hey Toney glad to see someone finally set people straight on the whole Tank mount, I figured it out myself just last year. Also nice of you to show the correct way for people to mount the fuel filter, I can't tell you how many people I see their videos and they are on backwards, And can't get gas to flow, Makes me laugh. #Build it Right Tony's vip
It’s nice that the 40 to 1 is getting out there. Before many builders use this 16 to 1. I did a recent video on break in and 16 to 1 ,does more harm then good.
16 to 1 looks like it gums up everything with deposits and drips out the exhaust from what I've learned. I'm doing a bit extra oil to a premix 40 to 1 can then doing 40 to 1. People say the 32 to 1 and 16 to one makes less power too. The mixture is too lean
When i first got my engine I ran the 16:1 break in as recommended. THE BIKE WOULD NOT START. No matter how much i kicked it over going down a hill. I was getting very upset, think I bought a new magneto and stuff and spark plug was so confused at the time as a young lad! I then took engine apart and realised how much oil was in there it was disgusting! I pressure washed the whole engine and exhaust put 20:1 in after doing research and it started straight away. Deffo does more harm than good.
THANK YOU, for clearing that up. the manufacturers, sellers, other builders, all have different instructions, this makes things so much easier. #BUILDITRIGHT
Really appreciate these kind of video updates that last video about fuel ratio from bikeberry was like 5-7 years ago and the motorized bike community has been growing and learning new things #BuildItRight
I've been mounting my tank like that for years, I was always surprised I'd never seen anybody else do it that way. I've never had any issues with leaks doing it like that.
I tried and couldn't get it to work. The first set of nuts won't go up into the painted threads, no matter how much sanding I tried and I won't dare crank any harder or the bolts will rip out. I first tried with nylon then regular stainless and no go. This upgraded mount was a complete bust for me :/ Wish it had gone differently
i love your videos ive bought a few things from bike berry I dont so much agree with the fuel to oil ratio My reasoning is ive blown engines up with the cradle grave phylosophy i run my first few gallons 32.1 with a bit of stp oil treatment the first few gallons its slow and rough gotta plug chop it use a wire brush clean the plug after you run those few galllons do the same but with 40.1 and just a tad of the stp bro youre engine will last forever
Thanks mate from Australia 🇦🇺 i followed the instructions and it was bogging down and i was wondering if 18:1 was to rich and thought it was fouling up. You've cleared up the issues i was wondering about. Cheers mate 👍
This couldn’t be any more helpful. I just got my little engine a few days ago, I am very happy with it. Bought it used and has a few issues but from experience on dirt bikes I took it apart and fixed it. I was stressing about the best fuel ratio, thankfully you saved it. But the big question for ethanol? To clean the carb, would seafoam work aswell?
If you use your bike frequently you likely won't have to worry about the ethanol. If it's going to be sitting for awhile, turn off the fuel, start it and let it run out of fuel. Do this and you won't have a problem from ethanol. Seafoam "can" help clean a fuel system that's "not quite clean" but is really meant as a prentative measure. It won't protect from the ethanol issues if left sitting though.
I love this regarding the oil gas mix. Straightforward and simple. Regarding the 40:1 I had already heard of another guy who was just reusing one of those little 2.6 oz 2-Cycle oil bottles you can get at any store as his measuring cup. There's actually a 3oz fill line and a view window right on the bottle. One of those in a 1 gallon gas container and you're good to go
Great video!! 👍👍 I think part of the reason for the 16:1 ratio for the breakin isn't just for the piston/rings/cylinder. Keep in mind you'll have purchased a brand new engine that likely has NO lubricant in it at all. That heavier mixture initially will help get oil in and around all those little nooks and crannies where its needed just as much as in the top end.... crank bearings, connecting rod, etc. By the time some oil has worked its way to those hiding places (a tank or 2 of fuel), then you're good to go with less oil in the mix. Just my 2 cents on it. 👍👍😁 Pete 🇨🇦
#Builditright --TONYSVIP Well I started my build last week, followed alot of your tips and ideas, I used my 87 Ritchie mountain bike, evreything works pretty good so far ,dialing in fuel mix and carb settings tomorrow. Thanks for the tips and ideas very helpfull
Tip 8 sand the area around gas tank bolts and fiberglass around them this will prevent the bolts from cracking and leaking when bumped also can tank seal the inside this will pretty much stop leaks before they happen
I've taken off several intakes from bikes I've bought, needing repairs. Including my own, the intake gasket is compressed and made smaller. I've opened these up, after porting a shop towel in 1st and opened up the opening. Bottom end power and starting is much easier and better. Then down jetting it by 2 helps.
i love your videos like I said I think tho first time builders more oil is better until you figure it out feel it until you get more knowledge on it we are dealing with chinese qaulity engines and most people think you can get on it I was one of those people and blew up a few engines thank you tony i watch and like all your videos
I keep my old editor flat inner tubes that I can't patch anymore and using for stuff like that there for the tank to wrap it around the bar to keep it from scratching the paint job on the bike and it also makes it feel sturdy and won't let it slip round either
Man I wish I seen this she I jumped into the engine bike hobby I went threw two tanks so far and gave up and went to a plastic one from lawnmowers lol but this is a bad ass idea thanks bro and another idea is use a old bike tube cut it to size
Tip 6 copper head gasket: throw it on the stove top on high heat let it turn dull color this will anneal the metal making it soft so it will conform and seal better.
This is a good way for people that are looking to get into riding scooters and motorcycles with the clutch they can learn how to use the clutch stopping it going
I am at year 5 of building and running motorized bikes. I like the idea of the double straps for the tank. I have been simply cutting off the studs. I found some clear plastic tubing which has a 1/4 thick wall, this I cut it in half and place it under the tank. The tank gets large cable ties over rubber tiedown straps, this shock proofs the tank from the engines vibrations. For the engine it's self. I match all the ports and gaskets. I raise the intake port by 1 mm and lower the exhaust port by the same 1mm. This adjusts the Timing a little. Now for the carb. I have been experimenting with the jets. Because I am running a Tuned pipe I run just a little bit richer than the #70 stock jet. Fuel mix. During the winter I run Regular and in the summer Prem. The difference is the temperature they burn at. Reg is a little hotter than the Prem. Oil, I have been using the Stehl Chainsaw oil, mixed at 25-1, this is double the normal amount of oil than for the Chainsaws. Finally, these two stroke engines really like the heat. So, before you go riding they really need to be warmed up completely. 10 minutes at a fast idle. The idle screw needs to be turned in for a fast self running idle, as the engine warms up idle will come up, turn the screw in a little, as the engine warms it will increase idle again, readjust. Usually the engine does this about 3 times. By simply listening to the engine it will tell you when it's warmed property.
This is good advice. I've been messing with these things for near a decade. 25:1 mix for sure. I've had good luck with Lucas semi synthetic oil. Letting it warm up and gradually ripping it harder and harder for short runs is how I do it. These nor any engine like to idle.
I have a 29inc. Midway beach cruiser from schwinn , I threw a stock china kit to it. Now running a kx80 motor cycle back in the day you had to glaze the engine ,so I ran it rick for first half of tank. yes had to clean the plug after with gas and fine grit paper. Same with this bike 66cc. I still win it rich 35/1 an for some reason this motor loves the low end it gives it. I can do 45 mph but like 20 that way i get to see everything and have to peddle every now and then. I think glazing is a good practice
Ps my instruction manual that came with said set suggested 16/1 but i started at 25 for half a tank then went to the 32/1 on a full now just the 35/1 all the time.
LEGEND. I've been running 20:1 for a while now and it always feels like it's very gummy and oily. Might give the engine a good wash out and stick 40:1 in it now. I aint seen anyone who's ran 40:1 and had problems so imma assume it's good.
When I mounted my very first gas tank I took the rubber from an old tire and used it as a " motor mount " I don't know how well it works as the clutch seized up
Hi Tony, ( new subscriber ) I just got my new BBR stage 4 engine and built in tank frame and before I put it together I wanted to do a little research. Your vid’s have in my opinion have been the most helpful. Thank you from Bryon. # Builditright Tonyvip
Actually, crankcase oil (motor oil) is really really bad for two strokes. Not only is it NOT designed to burn, it will CAKE your exhaust, cylinder, piston, etc, in carbon. Two stroke oil, however, is MADE to burn with the gas. It's way different from crankcase oil, in that it is 100% designed to burn. If you have a good two stroke mix, it shouldn't smoke, because it's two stroke oil. Crankcase oil will smoke really bad, because it's meant to lubricate for long periods of time whilst withstanding burning. If you're planning to travel far, bring a little 1 gallon two stroke mix jug. Echo powerblend works great, (since I have lawn equipment as well) because they sell little jugs that you pour the whole thing that mixes 50:1 for one gallon. And those bike tanks are about half gallon? So one little echo powerblend jug for one of those tanks will make a 25:1 - 30:1 mix or so, which isnt bad for a pinch or quick ride home from the gas pumps. I run 32:1 in my 66cc, since I'm going trail speed (not fast enough for efficient air cooling) so I need a little richer mix to keep the head cool. This might sound really redneck, but the way I calculate temps on any engine is to spit on the exhaust right out of the cylinder. If it burns and sizzles, it's past 212 F, and based on how fast it sears away also determines how hot it is. If you spit and nothing happens, you're good in any circumstance.
Yeah I haven't got one of those motorized bikes yet, I got an electric bike but I plan on trying to use a weed wacker motor right now and trying to build me a motorized bike out of that and, that's the two stroke also so we'll see how that works and I know you can use one cause I've seen the video on it, you've gotta use that two stroke Motor oil for that also so will see how well that works out for me. I'm disabled with neck and back injuries and pedaling for long periods, just eats away at my back, so I really need a good bike, and that's why I'm gonna try to build the weed Wacker bike.
Just started my new engine today. Had crap power but if course im in the break-in period and i only went 1 mile. I used 40:1 of Lucas semi-synthetic smokeless. Is this stiff ok to use? It wasnt expensive only like $5.99
I’m new to motorized bikes and I’m going for my first switch out from a mountain cruiser to a beach cruiser. High-performance car change out and CDI plus magneto. I’m having a hard time getting chain adjustment correctly what’s the best settings for the chain holder wheel to be at?
Oh yeah and of course smooth the edges of then port openings smooth leave no burs in them check the rings as well smooth all the sharp edges inside the cylinder and on piston and rings and clean well before reinstall
The reason for the extea oil for the break in is that you want the rings to set into the cylinder wall BUT you dont want it to do it fast. Think of it as sanding, less oil = lower grit sandpaper which will wear in fast. More oil = higher grit so it will wear into the wall slower. You want it slow because it creates less tolerance between the ring and the wall because the break in was more gradual. Im not going crazy like 16 to 1 but im adding a bit more oil like a 32 to 1 just for the first tank. Ride easy and dont tax the engine too! When you put a new turbo in a car you take it easy on it so the bearings break in slowly so you dont get any tolerance gap and get play in the turbine. Im just applying the same principles to this little thing. Im also adding a bit of marvel mystery oil directly to the cylinder to prevent it from scratching anything when it first gets moving.
This guy is like the total bro. I'm in the process of assembling my first motorized bicycle and it seems like anytime it comes from blackberries this guy shoots me straight no questions asked and when I do have some questions I want to bring up by the time I watched the video all the way through anything I was going to ask was addressed and this guy is just a true bro and he understands what we're going through
Hey Toney glad to see someone finally set people straight on the whole Tank mount, I figured it out myself just last year. Also nice of you to show the correct way for people to mount the fuel filter, I can't tell you how many people I see their videos and they are on backwards, And can't get gas to flow, Makes me laugh. #Build it Right
Tony's vip
Appreciate that my man! Yeah, this is stuff that I wish I could easily find when I first started.
Tony's vip s hashtag build right
😅😅%@@%%@@tonytaylor5087
It’s nice that the 40 to 1 is getting out there. Before many builders use this 16 to 1. I did a recent video on break in and 16 to 1 ,does more harm then good.
16 to 1 looks like it gums up everything with deposits and drips out the exhaust from what I've learned. I'm doing a bit extra oil to a premix 40 to 1 can then doing 40 to 1. People say the 32 to 1 and 16 to one makes less power too. The mixture is too lean
When i first got my engine I ran the 16:1 break in as recommended. THE BIKE WOULD NOT START. No matter how much i kicked it over going down a hill. I was getting very upset, think I bought a new magneto and stuff and spark plug was so confused at the time as a young lad!
I then took engine apart and realised how much oil was in there it was disgusting! I pressure washed the whole engine and exhaust put 20:1 in after doing research and it started straight away. Deffo does more harm than good.
THANK YOU, for clearing that up. the manufacturers, sellers, other builders, all have different instructions, this makes things so much easier. #BUILDITRIGHT
Really appreciate these kind of video updates that last video about fuel ratio from bikeberry was like 5-7 years ago and the motorized bike community has been growing and learning new things #BuildItRight
#BuildItRight
Tonysvip
I subscribed light shared your video of everybody I know
Awesome fix on gas tank 👍
I've been mounting my tank like that for years, I was always surprised I'd never seen anybody else do it that way. I've never had any issues with leaks doing it like that.
That’s awesome. It’s definitely the best way to go.
I tried and couldn't get it to work. The first set of nuts won't go up into the painted threads, no matter how much sanding I tried and I won't dare crank any harder or the bolts will rip out. I first tried with nylon then regular stainless and no go. This upgraded mount was a complete bust for me :/ Wish it had gone differently
Thank you very much for your advice on the oil mixture and on the fuel tank
i love your videos ive bought a few things from bike berry I dont so much agree with the fuel to oil ratio My reasoning is ive blown engines up with the cradle grave phylosophy i run my first few gallons 32.1 with a bit of stp oil treatment the first few gallons its slow and rough gotta plug chop it use a wire brush clean the plug after you run those few galllons do the same but with 40.1 and just a tad of the stp bro youre engine will last forever
I've seen people use pieces of inner tube in the engine mounts and tank mounts for less vibration as well
I did this, sealed it tight with rubber tape too so water doesn’t get trapped against the frame
That's what I did.. just finished my first build. Tomorrow is gonna be the maiden event.. lol
Foam tape
Hey Tony, great video! I’m glad to see my idea on the “big screen” 😁! I hope it helps others with their bike builds, thanks for sharing it!
Right on! Let’s go!
@@christiananaya1306 I'm sure I'm not the first one to think of it.
this helped out so much, im 50, bored and this seems like a good hobby!!!! couldnt figure out what the ratio meant.... soo kewl thanks brother
Yes Tony, learning and like your work. Always something to learn from other minds. Like that you mentioned other people who you learn from
Thank you! Always learn from those who’ve gone before you!
Thanks mate from Australia 🇦🇺 i followed the instructions and it was bogging down and i was wondering if 18:1 was to rich and thought it was fouling up. You've cleared up the issues i was wondering about. Cheers mate 👍
Can't wait to see it fired up. #BUILDITRIGHT
Getting close!!
Thats cool that ur giving that bike away hopefully it goes to a good person
This couldn’t be any more helpful. I just got my little engine a few days ago, I am very happy with it. Bought it used and has a few issues but from experience on dirt bikes I took it apart and fixed it. I was stressing about the best fuel ratio, thankfully you saved it. But the big question for ethanol? To clean the carb, would seafoam work aswell?
If you use your bike frequently you likely won't have to worry about the ethanol. If it's going to be sitting for awhile, turn off the fuel, start it and let it run out of fuel.
Do this and you won't have a problem from ethanol.
Seafoam "can" help clean a fuel system that's "not quite clean" but is really meant as a prentative measure. It won't protect from the ethanol issues if left sitting though.
Thanks for sharing information
Thank you so much this was a perfect straight forward answer for me. Keep up the great work buddy. Thank you again.
Great video on the gas Tony #build it right
Sweet trick on that gas tank..#builditright
I love this regarding the oil gas mix. Straightforward and simple.
Regarding the 40:1 I had already heard of another guy who was just reusing one of those little 2.6 oz 2-Cycle oil bottles you can get at any store as his measuring cup. There's actually a 3oz fill line and a view window right on the bottle.
One of those in a 1 gallon gas container and you're good to go
I'm Not Getting On You for Not knowing about fuel filters. I'm glad you got that sorted out. I like the Swiss Cruiser. #BUILD ITRIGHT
TONYSVIP
Great Job!
well looks like i have to remount my tank lol . good idea . TONY'S VIP . #BUILDITRIGHT
Phantom 85, just been Delievered, thanxs for the info, they sent upgraded bushings, so not looking to burn up a motor! 40:1 for break in it is!
Waiting on MS-380 piston kit, put windows on piston, be ready for the road then!
I would still run a lil richer first take 20:1 then after 40:1.. I do first take 20:1 then 30:1 after never had any problems
got a little more clearance, Clarence. great video, thanks!
Great video!! 👍👍
I think part of the reason for the 16:1 ratio for the breakin isn't just for the piston/rings/cylinder. Keep in mind you'll have purchased a brand new engine that likely has NO lubricant in it at all. That heavier mixture initially will help get oil in and around all those little nooks and crannies where its needed just as much as in the top end.... crank bearings, connecting rod, etc. By the time some oil has worked its way to those hiding places (a tank or 2 of fuel), then you're good to go with less oil in the mix. Just my 2 cents on it. 👍👍😁
Pete 🇨🇦
Tip 2 double nut the exhaust and mounting bolts way better than locktite
I like the fuel tank mounting idea. #BUILDITRIGHT
Thanks for the tips Tony #builditright
#BUILDITRIGHT this series is awesome!
#Builditright --TONYSVIP Well I started my build last week, followed alot of your tips and ideas, I used my 87 Ritchie mountain bike, evreything works pretty good so far ,dialing in fuel mix and carb settings tomorrow. Thanks for the tips and ideas very helpfull
Just a side note there Tony, The BBR fuel filters have no arrow. So it's probably a good idea that you pointed out which way the filter actually goes.
@@stevenharkreader65 Sorry but he has the fuel filter the right way, If yours is different than yours is wrong. Sorry Tony knows best.
#billed it right build it right
Tip 8 sand the area around gas tank bolts and fiberglass around them this will prevent the bolts from cracking and leaking when bumped also can tank seal the inside this will pretty much stop leaks before they happen
Y’all should make a full tuning guide
Learned alot thx first build, geeze!
The tank extra straps are a great idea
#builditright
I've taken off several intakes from bikes I've bought, needing repairs. Including my own, the intake gasket is compressed and made smaller. I've opened these up, after porting a shop towel in 1st and opened up the opening. Bottom end power and starting is much easier and better. Then down jetting it by 2 helps.
i love your videos like I said I think tho first time builders more oil is better until you figure it out feel it until you get more knowledge on it we are dealing with chinese qaulity engines and most people think you can get on it I was one of those people and blew up a few engines thank you tony i watch and like all your videos
I keep my old editor flat inner tubes that I can't patch anymore and using for stuff like that there for the tank to wrap it around the bar to keep it from scratching the paint job on the bike and it also makes it feel sturdy and won't let it slip round either
That’s a great idea!
#builditright , great series
Tony's VIP #buildright
Man I wish I seen this she I jumped into the engine bike hobby I went threw two tanks so far and gave up and went to a plastic one from lawnmowers lol but this is a bad ass idea thanks bro and another idea is use a old bike tube cut it to size
Tip 6 copper head gasket: throw it on the stove top on high heat let it turn dull color this will anneal the metal making it soft so it will conform and seal better.
He is right. But there is also another way and that's after the first time riding it you re torque the head bolts
This is a good way for people that are looking to get into riding scooters and motorcycles with the clutch they can learn how to use the clutch stopping it going
At 3:22 I liked it because I see what you're doing there. You can also mount one to a bike rack for a rear tank.
I am at year 5 of building and running motorized bikes.
I like the idea of the double straps for the tank. I have been simply cutting off the studs. I found some clear plastic tubing which has a 1/4 thick wall, this I cut it in half and place it under the tank. The tank gets large cable ties over rubber tiedown straps, this shock proofs the tank from the engines vibrations.
For the engine it's self. I match all the ports and gaskets. I raise the intake port by 1 mm and lower the exhaust port by the same 1mm. This adjusts the Timing a little. Now for the carb. I have been experimenting with the jets. Because I am running a Tuned pipe I run just a little bit richer than the #70 stock jet.
Fuel mix. During the winter I run Regular and in the summer Prem. The difference is the temperature they burn at. Reg is a little hotter than the Prem.
Oil, I have been using the Stehl Chainsaw oil, mixed at 25-1, this is double the normal amount of oil than for the Chainsaws.
Finally, these two stroke engines really like the heat. So, before you go riding they really need to be warmed up completely. 10 minutes at a fast idle. The idle screw needs to be turned in for a fast self running idle, as the engine warms up idle will come up, turn the screw in a little, as the engine warms it will increase idle again, readjust. Usually the engine does this about 3 times. By simply listening to the engine it will tell you when it's warmed property.
Wow thanks Keith for the detailed comment of your experience! Great guidelines my friend😃
This is good advice. I've been messing with these things for near a decade. 25:1 mix for sure. I've had good luck with Lucas semi synthetic oil. Letting it warm up and gradually ripping it harder and harder for short runs is how I do it. These nor any engine like to idle.
I have a 29inc. Midway beach cruiser from schwinn , I threw a stock china kit to it. Now running a kx80 motor cycle back in the day you had to glaze the engine ,so I ran it rick for first half of tank. yes had to clean the plug after with gas and fine grit paper. Same with this bike 66cc. I still win it rich 35/1 an for some reason this motor loves the low end it gives it. I can do 45 mph but like 20 that way i get to see everything and have to peddle every now and then. I think glazing is a good practice
Ps my instruction manual that came with said set suggested 16/1 but i started at 25 for half a tank then went to the 32/1 on a full now just the 35/1 all the time.
Where do you get that killer stainless braided exhaust pipe
On the BikeBerry site!
LEGEND. I've been running 20:1 for a while now and it always feels like it's very gummy and oily. Might give the engine a good wash out and stick 40:1 in it now. I aint seen anyone who's ran 40:1 and had problems so imma assume it's good.
I got the same tank and it cracked so I’m going to jb weld it up and do the brace trick thanks for the tips
Thanks Tony !
When I mounted my very first gas tank I took the rubber from an old tire and used it as a " motor mount " I don't know how well it works as the clutch seized up
I run 40:1
Yes sir 🚲💨💨💨💯👍🤙
Thanks for the info! #builditright
Hi Tony, ( new subscriber )
I just got my new BBR stage 4 engine and built in tank frame and before I put it together I wanted to do a little research. Your vid’s have in my opinion have been the most helpful.
Thank you from Bryon.
# Builditright
Tonyvip
Great video👍
Cool
Thank you so much!!!
Not sure if I signed up to enter the drawing for the bike correctly...well I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope for the best I guess...
I’m really glad I found your channel man, this info is priceless, thank you. TONYSVIP #BUILDITRIGHT
TONYSVIP #BUILDITRIGHT I’m new subscriber 👍🏼💯
How do you adjust the brakes properly on a Orange County replicas Stingray Matchbox 20
DOUBLE ROCKS
Actually, crankcase oil (motor oil) is really really bad for two strokes. Not only is it NOT designed to burn, it will CAKE your exhaust, cylinder, piston, etc, in carbon. Two stroke oil, however, is MADE to burn with the gas. It's way different from crankcase oil, in that it is 100% designed to burn. If you have a good two stroke mix, it shouldn't smoke, because it's two stroke oil. Crankcase oil will smoke really bad, because it's meant to lubricate for long periods of time whilst withstanding burning. If you're planning to travel far, bring a little 1 gallon two stroke mix jug. Echo powerblend works great, (since I have lawn equipment as well) because they sell little jugs that you pour the whole thing that mixes 50:1 for one gallon. And those bike tanks are about half gallon? So one little echo powerblend jug for one of those tanks will make a 25:1 - 30:1 mix or so, which isnt bad for a pinch or quick ride home from the gas pumps. I run 32:1 in my 66cc, since I'm going trail speed (not fast enough for efficient air cooling) so I need a little richer mix to keep the head cool. This might sound really redneck, but the way I calculate temps on any engine is to spit on the exhaust right out of the cylinder. If it burns and sizzles, it's past 212 F, and based on how fast it sears away also determines how hot it is. If you spit and nothing happens, you're good in any circumstance.
Echo powerblend is a great idea for longer trips. Thanks for the insight my man! 💪
@@tonytaylor5087 They just make it too easy nowadays: ua-cam.com/video/xVqV2IIuTZs/v-deo.html
Yeah I haven't got one of those motorized bikes yet, I got an electric bike but I plan on trying to use a weed wacker motor right now and trying to build me a motorized bike out of that and, that's the two stroke also so we'll see how that works and I know you can use one cause I've seen the video on it, you've gotta use that two stroke Motor oil for that also so will see how well that works out for me. I'm disabled with neck and back injuries and pedaling for long periods, just eats away at my back, so I really need a good bike, and that's why I'm gonna try to build the weed Wacker bike.
As 2 pushing it home or nothing it will work
If I have a 80cc bike what oil and fuel should I use?
Yea man listen to this dude on reg oil.I kept mixing my own trying to be cheap and I blew a hole in center of piston only do it in Time of need
Tony’s vip..#build it right
very smart idea.
Sounds great, but the studs are way to short to do that on most bikes
Doing this is, is a good idea to leave room for the break cable to go uber the can on my bike 😮
#BuildItRight today!
How about putting washer again tank maybe help like motor mounts on car.
Tip four red grease everything (high temp automotive grease )
Chuck's motorized bicycle repairs
Tampa florida
Just started my new engine today. Had crap power but if course im in the break-in period and i only went 1 mile. I used 40:1 of Lucas semi-synthetic smokeless. Is this stiff ok to use? It wasnt expensive only like $5.99
simple way for thread tape i found just look at the end of it and it's clockwise.
Ty I'm going with 40-1 I just want to verify
I’m new to motorized bikes and I’m going for my first switch out from a mountain cruiser to a beach cruiser. High-performance car change out and CDI plus magneto. I’m having a hard time getting chain adjustment correctly what’s the best settings for the chain holder wheel to be at?
Tip 5 if ya have a regular coaster brake only bike add a front v brake amd use hd wheel if ya can or a front drum brake or band brake
TONYSVIP #BUILDITRITE
Nice video helped me out thanks! #builditright
nice build
#Build it Right
Tony's vip
5
And now I need to dismount my tank and make some brackets
Tip 7 if ya have hand brakes only buy a dual brake lever so ya can hit both brakes w one hand
Great video #builditright
#builditrigth good one I like it
Tonys build right bike with drag pipes
shaking the rest of the mixture of gas and motor oil really well should be fine, i did that with my moped quite often
I have the same valve and mine had a gasket too.
Allways wandered if you can use regular oil if you were in a pinch thanks
Tony: You remind me of one of favorite heroes from The Pond who had this one word advice that I use daily:
"SIMPLIFY."
Oh yeah and of course smooth the edges of then port openings smooth leave no burs in them check the rings as well smooth all the sharp edges inside the cylinder and on piston and rings and clean well before reinstall
Please help me keep my bike running steady I need it for work
re-inforcing the gas tank is what i was referring to
The reason for the extea oil for the break in is that you want the rings to set into the cylinder wall BUT you dont want it to do it fast. Think of it as sanding, less oil = lower grit sandpaper which will wear in fast. More oil = higher grit so it will wear into the wall slower. You want it slow because it creates less tolerance between the ring and the wall because the break in was more gradual. Im not going crazy like 16 to 1 but im adding a bit more oil like a 32 to 1 just for the first tank. Ride easy and dont tax the engine too! When you put a new turbo in a car you take it easy on it so the bearings break in slowly so you dont get any tolerance gap and get play in the turbine. Im just applying the same principles to this little thing. Im also adding a bit of marvel mystery oil directly to the cylinder to prevent it from scratching anything when it first gets moving.
Five broken leaking gas tanks later ... you tell me this!? I switched to the book rack mount.
40:1 break in and 50:1 with the best gas it runs like a champ never had probs besides my exhaust sucks always gets loose after a while