Neck turning 1000 pieces of Lapua 6.5prc brass on Autodod
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- Опубліковано 1 кві 2024
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I'm in such awe! Here in Canada, I paid $267.00 for 1 box of 100 6.5 PRC brass. Was the cheapest price I could find. It's such a sad world we now live in. Thanks for the info and video John!
Can't just order it online from the US?
@thelittledetailscr7231 absolutely sure can. But we get hammered for duty and taxes. It ends up being just as much. As Canadians, we get 100% screwed. Hence, I wish you guys would invade us and take over, haha.
@@thelittledetailscr7231 Add 25% exchange to the US price, have to deal with folk that will ship brass up here, possible S&H chg depending on vendor and if they chg extra for export paperwork, no free freight like in US, possibly some duty as it is not US mfgr, probably min 40.00 US for frt, add 25% exchange to frt, then it has to come via USPS/Cda Post to avoid Fedex/DHL/UPS brokerage fees, Cda Post is 10.00 Cdn, then add 5%GST to brass price in Cdn dollars. It adds up in a hurry. Easiest way to calculate is to double cost it as to base US price, ie; 150.00 US, 300.00 Cdn landed, shud be close, depending if it's dutiable, and what the vendor chgs for S&H.
$359 AUD is the current price in australia
@@myallstone Can't order it from the US in bulk?
Thank you for the information
Gssss no wonder I could never find brass!!
I have heard the primer pockets are perfect. I'm a sceptic. On a horizontal station like. Lymans,or RCBS.
I would like to see a 100 standardized. And the brass ,left on the surface.
I have never had a piece of Lapua. And speaking for Federal ,and Winchester. There is a pile.
Rotate brass ahead of use, very smart.
Thanks for sharing your process John - always informative and appreciated! So, If you use a no-turn reamer for barrel chambering/neck clearance, would you still recommend turning the necks 1/2 -1 thou to avoid donuts in the neck from brass flow? Let's assume you could still get your desired neck tension after sizing.
I can't give you a 100% yes or no. In my experience I had donut issues even with a no-turn 7prcw but most of that is because you're necking up and then I run mandrels with limited shoulder bump so the donut ends up gettin pushed out eventually and can block the chamber just enough to make closing a bolt hard. Others don't have that issue because of their process. Ultimately a no-turn chamber is designed so you don't have to worry about turning. So in the end, yes it would be the safest thing to do if you're worried about donuts but may not be necessary.
@@FClassJohn John, agree wholeheartedly! If your single feeding and seating above a donuts ring no issues. Yes, think I play it safe and neck turn to keep them at a minimum...for single or magazine feeding. Tremendously appreciated!
How much difference do you see in velocity and group size shooting clean brass vs. Carbon in the necks?
Honestly not much at all. It's more about velocity consistency once they've been shot a time or two.
John you mentioned that you leave carbon in your necks . My annealing process seems to remove it from inside necks ! Does the Amp annealing not take out carbon? Can’t believe having that much brass at once for what it cost up here in Canada.
Annealing might take some carbon but doesn't really seem to be much. Maybe torch annealers take more out? But either way, there's always a slight layer of carbon in mine even after I use a diamond brush inside the neck.
Doesn't expanding the neck that much work harden the brass? Do you anneal prior to the first firing?
Yea probably a little bit but I don't really worry about it and no, I don't anneal again.
Do you ever have extra (empty) Lapua boxes you're not using? If so, I'd love to give some a new home as the form factor works for a storage solution I'm needing to take care of
No I'm sorry I don't. They don't ship in them anymore so whatever is out there is all there is sadly.
Why is your auto eject hitting the machine? mine stops parallel to it. Such a great add on to the machine.
Mine also swings back up and hits the machine. I added a Velcro strip just as John did. Might have to look at repositioning it.
I now have two pieces of velcro but will probably swap it out for a small rubber pad next time.
I would like for you to do some videos on dies. 🙏
The ones you like,
Reliable brands,
Who's dies are very good quality,
Ones for the plinking folks,
Ones for precision folks,
Ones that gives you ultimate adjustments
Best dies overall are Redding , Followed by Forster's and then RCBS for the average re-loader using a 7/8 x 14 threaded press head . In straight line dies used with an arbor press Wilson seems the best . The Lee collet dies is a good neck sizing die but the rest of Lee dies are ordinary . Hornady new dimension dies are quite well made and work fine for the average hunter plinker .
A Lee collet neck size die with a Redding body die and a Redding competition bullet seating die , works really well to preserve case life , makes body sizing a breeze and reduces greatly any chance of a stuck case . However if you did get a stuck case it's child's play to just knock the case back out with a suitable punch and hammer because there is no decapping rod or expander ball in the die .
Redding competition seater die is a micrometer adjustable die and makes experimenting with different seating depths easy and you can record the seating depth for multiple bullets and just dial the setting up as required .
Lee Collet neck sizing is flexible as it can do partial neck sizing by just putting a steel washer over the case on top of the shell holder and that reduces the length that is sized along the case neck to create small second shoulder . Also it works well with unturned and turned case necks as long as the turning job is not overdone . For a factory chamber you only want to skim neck turn to clean up about 75% of the circumference , no more . The Lee collet die fits in nicely when doing neck turning in a factory chamber and you create a second shoulder to reclaim case centering in the chamber . Mainly for bolt actions .
I have a question that hasn't been answered to my knowledge. Does the Dillon 750 work better for precision vs the 1050?
Thank you for all your information.
Hmm, can't really say although I think technically the 1050 has a better die toolhead system and all things being equal it probably is a hair better. The downside is far fewer accessories for it especially things like the Cortina bullet pointing system and stuff.
@@FClassJohn Thanks for the reply. I didn't know if it was because of the extra price tag or what.
What are your thoughts on collet neck sizing after full length body sizing..
Never done it, sorry.
thanks
Donuts cost more than a dollar these days. I'll take that bet
John, what are you turning down to, .0125”?
Yes exactly.
Do you trim the cases before you turn the necks?
Same question. Also do you chamfer and deburr?
Is the brass too thick, uneven, or for lot to lot consistency?
It's to create consistency. You can technically shoot no-turn brass but when necking up like I have to do, you end up creating donuts and they create serious problems down the line.
Running the brass thru Cortinas mandrel with no lube on the outside doesn't stick?
Other question is Cortinas mandrel is designed to squeeze the base, running it thru 3-4 times doesn't effect your brass?
I haven't had any ill effects thus far and As long as I keep my brass sized properly I've never had an issue with brass getting stuck in it. Of course for the actual sizing die I use lube.
Didn't you try an autodod a while ago and went back to your 21'st century turning to 8and drill press?
No, I've never had or tried an IDOD/AUtoDod before.
@@FClassJohn maybe it was Bruce...
How close is your "final" powder charge from virgin to once fired ? ... Do you shoot the same powder charge with both Virgin and Once fired ?
Yep in fact I'm making a video showing that exact thing but for instance, last night I shot fired and virgin and the average speed across 20 rounds was only 3fps off from each other.
Thanks John!
Look forward to seeing that video - as I'm in the same situation right now 👌👌
John, let me preface this by saying I am new to reloading well really just building up knowledge and equipment(reading a lot and asking questions). Why do you start with 6.5PRC and size it up to 7? Why wouldn’t you start at 7PRC? Thanks!
The Hornady sammi spec 7prc is a different case than the 6.5prc. He is shooting a wildcat that him and EC call the 7prcw which is a 6.5prc necked up to 7mm.
To add on to the previous comment, John is not loading 6.5PRC or 7PRC, he is loading a wildcat, which is a 7mm projectile in a 6.5PRC case, there’s a few names for it, one is 7prcw, one is 7prcc, and another more correct (in my opinion) way to label it would be 7-6.5PRC.
He is loading a 7-6.5PRCW. It is a wildcat designed by Alex Wheeler.
Everybody who commented is correct...
@@airborne350g yeah I knew that part. I guess I’m more wondering the why behind it. I see Eric Cortina basically doing the same thing and just wonder why start at the 6.5 and size it up vs starting at the 7?
I guess the next question would be why not just shoot 6.5 prc ? Is the the 7 mm berger bullet better than the 6.5 bullet? Yes it's larger and heavier, is the bc better? Just wondering, thanks.
Heavier bullet with better BC.
Thanks, makes sense.
And on top of the better BC as others said, it comes with better barrel life as well.
Why buy 6.5 and expand ? Why no just buy .284 brass and turn? Is there something special that expanding does for accuracy
This isn’t .284. It’s 6.5prc that being necked up to 7mm. It’s a magnum cartridge.
Of course!!! What was I thinking
Do you ream inside the brass flash hole
No, not any more on Lapua brass
Thanks John 🤙🏽
@@FClassJohn can you please tell me about what sd and es you guys get when you shooting a comp. A sting of 20 or more rounds. I just want to know what fclass guys get for match ammo
@@kyley808 Usually I'm in the mid teens on 20 rounds. SDs in the single digits. I don't really sweat the numbers as long as they're somewhere in that ballpark. There's better things to spend my time on.
@@FClassJohn thanks you are awesome 👍🏽
Chamfering the brass is 20% of the accuracty. Statistically proven.
All of this is getting chamfered.
Unless you run a tight chamber neck, neck turning Lapua brass doesn't make sense.
If you are turning fora tight neck chamber then ok . If you are turning for a factory chamber then your removing too much brass .