You can't beat the look of the old school stem and bar combo. My 45 year old Guerciotti is now way too "stretched/slammed" for me (I can't believe I used to sit for hours and hours on that thing) and until now I figured the only way out was an expensive, iffy stem from ebay. I will measure the handlebar thickness at the stem and if it's the same, I'll get a quill adapter and use one of the handful of stems in my parts box. Great video. I never would have thought of that solution.
@@stuartfreedman6854 very true the old school combo ties the look together, but what beats that is being able to ride the bike more! Hope you get a great build with your stems!
@@newoldsteel Thanks! Sadly, the old Cinelli bars have a rather narrower width at the joining point so the old stems won't work. And I don't trust any sort of AliBabba shim solution. I will investigate whether a stem made to clamp an older mountain bike bar will work or not. Beyond that, it's phoning around to shops that sell used parts... Stay safe!
One easy way to shorten the reach is changing the handlebar for a modern short reach, low stack handlebar. I did this conversion on my vintage bike and I did not have to change the stem length but only the handlebar. I used a 90mm -17° stem changing nothing but the handlebar. It made things easier in terms of bike fit. I think it is a good idea to use Park Tool SAC-2 Lube Assembly Compound on the quill adaptor, stem and handlebar. Like that you don't have to over torque anything.
Actually that's a great idea! Yea because these older bars have such long reach already with the top/hood area. Thanks for the suggestions I'll also check out the compound as well. Thanks for watching!
@@newoldsteel I finally fixed my neck and shoulder pain problem with this setup. If you miss the mark, it's easy to swap the stem for a longer or shorter one, or one with a different angle to give you more or less stack. I like the way the hoods marry the short radius curve of the handlebar, but I am still getting use of the tight hand position while in the drops.
100% It's like a piece of art! It's the Nitto Pearl model and from time to time they pop up on eBay! Trust me though, I'll be going back to quill in the future. Thanks for watching!
I agree with you - I prefer the look of a quill stem on a classic bike, but I appreciate the ease of changing the reach using a threadless setup. Like others have stated, I think you just made some mistakes with your initial setup. Properly installed, and using some Assembly Compound (or carbon paste), This setup would work just fine. No need for spacers unless you dislike the appearance of the 1" stem adapter sticking up from the headset. One thing you didn't mention (though it should be obvious) is that the older bars are 26mm so you have to source a 26mm threadless stem to fit classic bars.
@@dperreno thanks for watching and providing those tips! Definitely will keep those in mind for a future build as I’ll definitely always be building bikes! Yea luckily the bars and stem are for 26mm so I’m lucky in that.
I converted my vintage frame to threadless but only so I could use a Redshift suspension stem--a godsend for us older guys! And I use microSHIFT lever shifters because it's too much work now to reach down for the shift levers--but your SunTour levers and brakes look awesome.
@@Jordanmilo ahhh good ol Redshift, heard that stem has been incredible! I’ll have to try it one day. But that’s a great reason for the conversion. They are beautiful levers and brakes and tie everything together. Thanks for watching!
@@newoldsteelAnd they also make them in carbon like 1 piece of up to 4 cm of height. For the Shimano Dura Ace 1‘ headset there’s an adapter from diacompe that converts it into an one inch aheadset
Also you need to get a -17degree stem to match the current one you had on it if you want the same setup, Ritchey makes a WCS stem that looks great, I currently use this one on my Cannondale
Correct, the -17 degree is the only angle that will 100% match. I checked out those stems just now and they do look really good! Maybe in the near future. Thanks for watching!
Don't forget the welded frame makes it more modern, oh, and the unicrown fork. Surprised you are looking at a shorter stem since you are so tall and that looks like a 56(ctc/58 ctt), but I tend to ride on the hooks and I use the hoods as a semi-aero position so I can see it. Solid tip on the stem adapters, I haven't used one yet so I haven't had to wonder but now I know . Neat that you have a forte stem which I think is a performance bike brand.
YES 100% regarding the frame and fork design too! That does help blend the new/old mix. Yes this is a 56cm and I lean more towards smaller frames as I like the feel of really long stems, but I noticed every time i build on this bike I have to slam the saddle all the way forward even with a 0 degree seatpost, so I thought to experiment so i can move it a little back. So far the 110mm stem is working but will go back to quill stem in the future. thanks for watching!
As mentioned below, you can find 17 deg stems to copy the flat look of a quill stem. This does not at a slight rise to the bar height with a normal threadless stem.
I still have the Cinelli 1R on my 1979 Raleigh 753. I remember when I first saw them in photos of Merckx’s bike and wondered how they worked. Give me Ahead stems any day - except chopping off the fork column is a bit traumatic…
Now that's a bike! And that quill stem is beautiful. Oh yea fork column cutting is something I don't care to ever try and will take it to a professional bike shop. Thanks for watching!
I'm lucky, my Litespeed has a 3T quill stem with 4 bolt attachment for the handlebars....My other Cannondale has a threadless stem. I like the stiffness of the threadless, but it's not that much of a difference. Quill stem looks classic.
I run quite a few threadless adapters and never had the issues you've described....although the ones i get you can remove the stem without removing the adapter first. I also don't run spacers under the stem on threadless adapted bikes. I just DGAFF what others think. It's my bike and im the one riding it. Anyway, i remember watching cycling youtuber Spindatt using a trick headset.. made by Innicycle. It retains the threaded fork but gives you a seamless look and more cockpit options by going threadless on top.
Get the Profile by design adapter, there is no top cap, it’s permanently attached, you just tighten the bolt like a normal quill stem, I’ve never seen a adapter with a top cap
Nice I should put back the old quill stem on my 1988 bianchi short story tho my boss at work got a hold of about 13 vintage bikes from an estate sale so he has given me the task to sell them 😮 I work at a mechanic shop an he’s not into bicycles - cannondale r800 - trek 2120 carbon -trek 2100 carbon -schwinn continental . so far
There is one threadless stem adaptor out there that MAY have enough room where spacers can fit too, but the transition from what inserts into the fork, and where it widens for the threadless stem to attach to is pretty long, so you can never slam it and make it more natural looking. But none of this is necessary with a quill stem, hence why they are KING!
Hi! Wanna keep a quill stem, but be able to switchhandlebars? Use the 3TTT Evol 2002 hinged model quill stem! Great solution, great gun metal look. Would even fit that particular bike very well. Greetings, Stefan
I will keep my eyes peeled for that on the used market! That does sound like a good blend of all that I'm looking to accomplish. Thanks for the recommendation appreciate it!
Your bike looked so clean and svelte before the conversion. Definitely look for a shorter reach handlebar or quill stem. Removable face plate 2 bolt quill stems are kinda shit because the removable clamp flexes a lot, some even creak. Except for Nitto 4 bolt steel quills, heavier and not very aestethic on a vintage classic.
I run the threadless adapter on my old Moser, I had a black stepped adapter off of Ebay, it snapped right at the step. I am now running a smooth tapered one that I bought at the local bike shop. I don't want to push my luck on this, I was so lucky that it snapped starting off at a stop sign, but total loss of control.
I can't see why anyone would want to change from the elegance of a Cinelli 1A (surely the best looking stem ever designed) to the threadless type - which looks completely wrong on a bike of this era.
I 100% understand! This was a temporary thing just for now, but I'm seriously itching to go back, but I think I may need to get a 100-110 quill stem which I'm going to be actively shopping for shortly. Thanks for watching!
@@newoldsteel Thanks, yes, I see why you installed the new-style stem. I believe that Cinelli were making reissues of the old-style stems a while ago, but I don't know if they still are. If not, I suppose eBay might come up with the goods - but getting a good non-abused secondhand stem could be difficult. As an aside, I'm impressed by your ability to ride rollers - you make it look easy; I never could get the hang of how to do it. I own a modern gravel bike as well as a couple of older machines, so I'm not anti anything new, by the way! 😊
Nitto Pearl stems run longer than normal, so a 120mm Nitto Pearl stem runs probably 128mm. A stem from another manufacturer, 3TTT, ITM, or Cinelli would run shorter and closer to 120mm
@@fivethumbs6118 I didn’t know that but glad to know now because yes it does feel a little on the longer side. I’ll take a look at those brands now as I’m shopping for a quill stem now. Thanks for watching!
@@newoldsteel I have a box of about 30 or so quill stems and I have ITM, Cinelli, 3ttt, Nitto, Ritchey, and Modolo. Stem sizing is so inconsistent even with the same mfr. My 120mm Status is a true 120 but my 120mm 3ttt Evol and my 120mm 3ttt Pro Chrome are both closer to 115 mm. I bought a Nitto Technomic 110mm and it runs closer to 115mm. ITM quill stems seem to run true to size. Stay away from Modolo. My experience is they are terrible.
It was for the sake of the video, BUT currently don't have a shorter quill stem in my possession yet. Still waiting for a few specific ones on eBay to pop up!
Why be so much about the looks of such minor details? True to the original vintage looks nice, but if something else serves functional purposes as good or better, it's all acceptable - alter the bike as you wish if it makes the bike better for your use. Of course there's a limit that if something makes your bike downright ugly, but often just altering components isn't breaking the looks, it just makes the bike look a little different, more personal. Too bad quill stems didn't come with face plates and for various handlebar diameters, but that's the way it is, so threadless adapters are the way to go. I rather choose the convenience of being able to choose from modern handlebar designs and haven't suffered a slightest bit from the added weight or mismatch looks of the cockpit to the original vintage quill stem. As soon as you have built the bike and start riding you're already used to the looks, in use the comfort and convenience supersedes the old quill stem handlebar combo at once. I wish there were modern handlebars that would be made for quill stems with face plates, then I wouldn't hesitate at all sticking with the quill. There's a Taiwanese quill stem with 31,8mm clamp and face plate, but it looks way weirder than the threadless adapter and a modern handlebar, the old slim quill stem design with 31,8mm clamp just doesn't look right to me.
You definitely have a point! It isn't the worst looking but yea those quill stems with faceplates are so hard to find within reasonable price and condition. It's almost like you have to pick one or the other and not both lol. oh yea I've seen the 31.8 quill stems and i agree they do look weirder than my converion! I'm still hunting for a right size quill stem but been riding with this threadless stem with no problems!
It kind of does on camera, but they are just a bunch of scratches and sticky residue from the many many bar wraps I've done with the adhesive from previous tape.
It looks dumb with the spacers. Plus they aren't really functional so it dead weight. The original stem was perfect for that bike. In fact I'm thinking of doing the exact reverse on my Raleigh. Putting a period correct stem on to replace stem and quill adapter.
If you wanna convert to threadless, only sensible option is to switch to a threadless headset. It just looks super ugly slapping a quill stem adapter on top of a threaded headset.
I totally understand! I can never defend the look of this lol. Just a temporary thing! I'm already shopping for a slightly shorter stem so I can go back to quill asap. Thanks for watching I appriciate it!
You can't beat the look of the old school stem and bar combo. My 45 year old Guerciotti is now way too "stretched/slammed" for me (I can't believe I used to sit for hours and hours on that thing) and until now I figured the only way out was an expensive, iffy stem from ebay. I will measure the handlebar thickness at the stem and if it's the same, I'll get a quill adapter and use one of the handful of stems in my parts box. Great video. I never would have thought of that solution.
@@stuartfreedman6854 very true the old school combo ties the look together, but what beats that is being able to ride the bike more! Hope you get a great build with your stems!
@@newoldsteel Thanks! Sadly, the old Cinelli bars have a rather narrower width at the joining point so the old stems won't work. And I don't trust any sort of AliBabba shim solution. I will investigate whether a stem made to clamp an older mountain bike bar will work or not. Beyond that, it's phoning around to shops that sell used parts... Stay safe!
Awesome short-end Allen key trick! I've been riding and maintaining bikes for decades and have NEVER come across this! Thank you.
One easy way to shorten the reach is changing the handlebar for a modern short reach, low stack handlebar. I did this conversion on my vintage bike and I did not have to change the stem length but only the handlebar. I used a 90mm -17° stem changing nothing but the handlebar. It made things easier in terms of bike fit. I think it is a good idea to use Park Tool SAC-2 Lube Assembly Compound on the quill adaptor, stem and handlebar. Like that you don't have to over torque anything.
Actually that's a great idea! Yea because these older bars have such long reach already with the top/hood area. Thanks for the suggestions I'll also check out the compound as well. Thanks for watching!
@@newoldsteel I finally fixed my neck and shoulder pain problem with this setup. If you miss the mark, it's easy to swap the stem for a longer or shorter one, or one with a different angle to give you more or less stack. I like the way the hoods marry the short radius curve of the handlebar, but I am still getting use of the tight hand position while in the drops.
That original Stem is Beautiful... The way it follows the lines of the Top Tube... I gotta find one now.
100% It's like a piece of art! It's the Nitto Pearl model and from time to time they pop up on eBay! Trust me though, I'll be going back to quill in the future. Thanks for watching!
Good old Cinelli
Yeah allot of times the angle makes those stems look terrible. Honestly the quill stem isn't a bad design
Fantastic groupset. Suntour 😍
@@timnewland4186 100%!!
I agree with you - I prefer the look of a quill stem on a classic bike, but I appreciate the ease of changing the reach using a threadless setup. Like others have stated, I think you just made some mistakes with your initial setup. Properly installed, and using some Assembly Compound (or carbon paste), This setup would work just fine. No need for spacers unless you dislike the appearance of the 1" stem adapter sticking up from the headset.
One thing you didn't mention (though it should be obvious) is that the older bars are 26mm so you have to source a 26mm threadless stem to fit classic bars.
@@dperreno thanks for watching and providing those tips! Definitely will keep those in mind for a future build as I’ll definitely always be building bikes! Yea luckily the bars and stem are for 26mm so I’m lucky in that.
Black anodized parts (ex: Dura-Ace options from 1974) were quite cool BITD. No problem with black bar tape either.
That's the first thing that I thought: "Dura-Ace did all black!" And they looked the bomb (which, btw, no one said back then).
I converted my vintage frame to threadless but only so I could use a Redshift suspension stem--a godsend for us older guys! And I use microSHIFT lever shifters because it's too much work now to reach down for the shift levers--but your SunTour levers and brakes look awesome.
@@Jordanmilo ahhh good ol Redshift, heard that stem has been incredible! I’ll have to try it one day. But that’s a great reason for the conversion.
They are beautiful levers and brakes and tie everything together. Thanks for watching!
I’m just impressed your bike is Suntour Cyclone/GPX. 👍👍👍
Thanks! Super hard to find in good condition but worth it!
They make 1" spacers that work better. There were originally used for 1" threadless but will work for this as well.
I will seriously consider that, I totally forgot about the 1" threadless spacers that also exist. Thanks for the tip!
@@newoldsteelAnd they also make them in carbon like 1 piece of up to 4 cm of height.
For the Shimano Dura Ace 1‘ headset there’s an adapter from diacompe that converts it into an one inch aheadset
Also you need to get a -17degree stem to match the current one you had on it if you want the same setup, Ritchey makes a WCS stem that looks great, I currently use this one on my Cannondale
Correct, the -17 degree is the only angle that will 100% match. I checked out those stems just now and they do look really good! Maybe in the near future. Thanks for watching!
Don't forget the welded frame makes it more modern, oh, and the unicrown fork. Surprised you are looking at a shorter stem since you are so tall and that looks like a 56(ctc/58 ctt), but I tend to ride on the hooks and I use the hoods as a semi-aero position so I can see it.
Solid tip on the stem adapters, I haven't used one yet so I haven't had to wonder but now I know .
Neat that you have a forte stem which I think is a performance bike brand.
YES 100% regarding the frame and fork design too! That does help blend the new/old mix. Yes this is a 56cm and I lean more towards smaller frames as I like the feel of really long stems, but I noticed every time i build on this bike I have to slam the saddle all the way forward even with a 0 degree seatpost, so I thought to experiment so i can move it a little back. So far the 110mm stem is working but will go back to quill stem in the future. thanks for watching!
The Nitto threadless adapter is knurled and absolutely secure.
@@ericpmoss I’ll check that out! Thanks for the recommendation!
As mentioned below, you can find 17 deg stems to copy the flat look of a quill stem. This does not at a slight rise to the bar height with a normal threadless stem.
I still have the Cinelli 1R on my 1979 Raleigh 753. I remember when I first saw them in photos of Merckx’s bike and wondered how they worked. Give me Ahead stems any day - except chopping off the fork column is a bit traumatic…
Now that's a bike! And that quill stem is beautiful. Oh yea fork column cutting is something I don't care to ever try and will take it to a professional bike shop. Thanks for watching!
I'm lucky, my Litespeed has a 3T quill stem with 4 bolt attachment for the handlebars....My other Cannondale has a threadless stem. I like the stiffness of the threadless, but it's not that much of a difference. Quill stem looks classic.
I've seen those and the 3T ones do look good! Yea honestly same here especially with sprinting, I can't really notice it. Thanks for watching!
I run quite a few threadless adapters and never had the issues you've described....although the ones i get you can remove the stem without removing the adapter first. I also don't run spacers under the stem on threadless adapted bikes. I just DGAFF what others think. It's my bike and im the one riding it.
Anyway, i remember watching cycling youtuber Spindatt using a trick headset.. made by Innicycle. It retains the threaded fork but gives you a seamless look and more cockpit options by going threadless on top.
Get the Profile by design adapter, there is no top cap, it’s permanently attached, you just tighten the bolt like a normal quill stem, I’ve never seen a adapter with a top cap
Oh yea I gotta check that out! Looks like it may be a better design. Thanks for the recommendation and for watching I appreciate it!
Why wouldn’t you put the stem adapter first, tighten it down, then add the stem?
More so for the talking parts of the vid so I had a visualization, but that does work too I've done it like that!
Nice I should put back the old quill stem on my 1988 bianchi short story tho my boss at work got a hold of about 13 vintage bikes from an estate sale so he has given me the task to sell them 😮 I work at a mechanic shop an he’s not into bicycles - cannondale r800 - trek 2120 carbon -trek 2100 carbon -schwinn continental . so far
Go for it!
Also what a score! That would be crazy to get a hold of. Thanks for watching and commenting!
There is one threadless stem adaptor out there that MAY have enough room where spacers can fit too, but the transition from what inserts into the fork, and where it widens for the threadless stem to attach to is pretty long, so you can never slam it and make it more natural looking. But none of this is necessary with a quill stem, hence why they are KING!
Quill stems are unsafe
@@aeyde Right, that must be why 90kg sprinters in Japanese Keirin use them without problems when pushing 2500 watts out of the saddle
@@AutiSam1974Correct,they are extremely strong,I ride a Lightspeed quill stem and it's solid.
What exactly is unsafe about quill stems?
Hi! Wanna keep a quill stem, but be able to switchhandlebars? Use the 3TTT Evol 2002 hinged model quill stem! Great solution, great gun metal look. Would even fit that particular bike very well. Greetings, Stefan
I will keep my eyes peeled for that on the used market! That does sound like a good blend of all that I'm looking to accomplish. Thanks for the recommendation appreciate it!
Your bike looked so clean and svelte before the conversion. Definitely look for a shorter reach handlebar or quill stem. Removable face plate 2 bolt quill stems are kinda shit because the removable clamp flexes a lot, some even creak. Except for Nitto 4 bolt steel quills, heavier and not very aestethic on a vintage classic.
@@cosinus_square I totally agree! Don’t worry, I’m working on getting another quill stem at 110mm as we speak. It will return!
Just buy the right sized spacers. The ride quality increase going threadless is crazy. Def worth it
I run the threadless adapter on my old Moser, I had a black stepped adapter off of Ebay, it snapped right at the step. I am now running a smooth tapered one that I bought at the local bike shop. I don't want to push my luck on this, I was so lucky that it snapped starting off at a stop sign, but total loss of control.
First stem is perfectly organic. And beautiful.
Second stem is vintage sacrilege. And ugly.
Case closed!
Haha I do agree! It looks odd but it will only be temporary. Thanks for watching!
I used 1" spacers for mine and i looks better.
I gotta snag some! That does seem like a way better idea. Thanks for that and thanks for watching!
What A head stem shim size 34mm 36mm or 40mm ?
I can't see why anyone would want to change from the elegance of a Cinelli 1A (surely the best looking stem ever designed) to the threadless type - which looks completely wrong on a bike of this era.
I 100% understand! This was a temporary thing just for now, but I'm seriously itching to go back, but I think I may need to get a 100-110 quill stem which I'm going to be actively shopping for shortly. Thanks for watching!
@@newoldsteel Thanks, yes, I see why you installed the new-style stem. I believe that Cinelli were making reissues of the old-style stems a while ago, but I don't know if they still are. If not, I suppose eBay might come up with the goods - but getting a good non-abused secondhand stem could be difficult.
As an aside, I'm impressed by your ability to ride rollers - you make it look easy; I never could get the hang of how to do it.
I own a modern gravel bike as well as a couple of older machines, so I'm not anti anything new, by the way! 😊
if it’s a real rider, it is gonna be much stiffer with a modern stem and bar
Nitto Pearl stems run longer than normal, so a 120mm Nitto Pearl stem runs probably 128mm. A stem from another manufacturer, 3TTT, ITM, or Cinelli would run shorter and closer to 120mm
@@fivethumbs6118 I didn’t know that but glad to know now because yes it does feel a little on the longer side. I’ll take a look at those brands now as I’m shopping for a quill stem now. Thanks for watching!
@@newoldsteel I have a box of about 30 or so quill stems and I have ITM, Cinelli, 3ttt, Nitto, Ritchey, and Modolo. Stem sizing is so inconsistent even with the same mfr. My 120mm Status is a true 120 but my 120mm 3ttt Evol and my 120mm 3ttt Pro Chrome are both closer to 115 mm. I bought a Nitto Technomic 110mm and it runs closer to 115mm. ITM quill stems seem to run true to size. Stay away from Modolo. My experience is they are terrible.
Still don't know if I am Quill or threaded. 3T Prima Bars 94 MX Leader all Campy! Not bragging or not! Issue not a problem in 94.
Very nice bike! I think that bike looks so good that either will 100% work! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Cut the spacers from 26.8 seattube
Exactly. But I would never give up that beautiful stem.
Where are you finding 26.8 mm seat tubes?
A lot of waffle.Why didn't you just change the quill stem for a shorter one?
It was for the sake of the video, BUT currently don't have a shorter quill stem in my possession yet. Still waiting for a few specific ones on eBay to pop up!
Throw that stem conversion in the trash. That quill stem is cool.
@@MrTongamotorhead I totally get it! Don’t worry, working on a 110mm quill stem purchase as we speak!
Please change the tires
Why be so much about the looks of such minor details? True to the original vintage looks nice, but if something else serves functional purposes as good or better, it's all acceptable - alter the bike as you wish if it makes the bike better for your use. Of course there's a limit that if something makes your bike downright ugly, but often just altering components isn't breaking the looks, it just makes the bike look a little different, more personal.
Too bad quill stems didn't come with face plates and for various handlebar diameters, but that's the way it is, so threadless adapters are the way to go. I rather choose the convenience of being able to choose from modern handlebar designs and haven't suffered a slightest bit from the added weight or mismatch looks of the cockpit to the original vintage quill stem. As soon as you have built the bike and start riding you're already used to the looks, in use the comfort and convenience supersedes the old quill stem handlebar combo at once.
I wish there were modern handlebars that would be made for quill stems with face plates, then I wouldn't hesitate at all sticking with the quill. There's a Taiwanese quill stem with 31,8mm clamp and face plate, but it looks way weirder than the threadless adapter and a modern handlebar, the old slim quill stem design with 31,8mm clamp just doesn't look right to me.
You definitely have a point! It isn't the worst looking but yea those quill stems with faceplates are so hard to find within reasonable price and condition. It's almost like you have to pick one or the other and not both lol.
oh yea I've seen the 31.8 quill stems and i agree they do look weirder than my converion! I'm still hunting for a right size quill stem but been riding with this threadless stem with no problems!
Never mod stem diameter with handle...will crank metal...only using handlebar with match stem diameter you be golden 😊😊😊
Is it just me or is there serious pitting on those bars?
It kind of does on camera, but they are just a bunch of scratches and sticky residue from the many many bar wraps I've done with the adhesive from previous tape.
It looks dumb with the spacers. Plus they aren't really functional so it dead weight.
The original stem was perfect for that bike. In fact I'm thinking of doing the exact reverse on my Raleigh. Putting a period correct stem on to replace stem and quill adapter.
If you wanna convert to threadless, only sensible option is to switch to a threadless headset.
It just looks super ugly slapping a quill stem adapter on top of a threaded headset.
I totally understand! I can never defend the look of this lol. Just a temporary thing! I'm already shopping for a slightly shorter stem so I can go back to quill asap. Thanks for watching I appriciate it!
@@newoldsteel i agree it fits better with retro titanium/aluminium bikes - on steel i also prefer quillstem
why even do this. quill stems look great and function just fine
@@dalton-at-work I get it! Not ideal and I just wanted to make this vid. But also shopping for a 110mm quill stem as we speak. Thanks for watching!
Ewww, ugly now
@@vanwilder1101 LOL YUP. Don’t worry, I’ll go back soon! Watching a few on eBay right now 😁