Nice build Now I was hoping for some follow up vids where u took that bike on a bit of an epic sportive or something just to see how it performed. But ....... I'm not sure , given my history , I would want to take a tubular bike on an epic journey. However if u did decide to do an interesting ride u could always swap the wheels out for a set of clinchers. BTW , I'm always messing about with bike builds, I cant remember the time I bought a complete bike. I like buying a frame and then choosing every component on it so u get exactly what u want without swapping out lots of components
Have a similar build. You wont regret the tubulars once you glue them on. Steel frame + tubulars are super comfy and I have 88mm rims + alu seatpost on mine, but it's still smooth. Will probably build something similar when my daughter gets older, maybe revised with a sane wheelset.
This is a very good "How NOT to set up your stem" episode. You are basically risking your life by riding that bike and i'm not joking. You need to put an adapter in place of the clasic 1" stem and only then you install the threadless stem by fixing it on the adapter you just installed. This is the proper way to do it.
Alex's insights remind me of one of Dad's old sayings (usually muttered in frustration half way through a job) - Everything is more difficult than you think, takes longer than you expect, and costs more than you budgeted for.
@Corryvreckan23 was tou father a contractor by any chance, or just a victim of one?🤣 I work in the trades (flooring) and this is damn near a mantra, lol.
@@ghowell13 No, I usually heard it in the context of whatever project he was working on round the house at the time. They all worked out in the end (he was pretty good at them), but there was always that one moment where something didn't go as planned.
Like others, I'd caution about the stem arrangement. A quill stem locks into the steerer tube below the threads. The threads on the steerer tube are just to provide bearing preload. The arrangement as shown puts all the loads through the threads, which are the weakest part of the steerer tube.
Colnago master precise fork is offered with a 1” threadless option. Campagnolo SR 12 still offers fully mechanical groupo…plus Bora WTO for rim breaks is still available…all a bit pricey I know but a joy to ride and will out last me. I am of course a Neo retro fan… Always good content and great community…cheers everyone!
That fork steerer will fail. It is not a matter of if it fails, but when it will fail. You can convert it by assembling that headset with all of the threaded parts, then installing a quill to threadless adapter in place of the quill stem, then installing your threadless stem to that. Do not cheap out on the adapter. Get a forged aluminum, not a cheap cast piece. The most robust assembly is just using a high quality quill stem, and the right size handlebar for it.
shocked to see he's done this. Is there no oversight from an actual mechanic on this network? This is the host of the tech show. I understand its just an entertainment channel but this is egregious
i'm not an engineer or even a mechanic but it appears to me that the shim only sits on the tips of the (crushed) threads, which seems like not a lot of material interface (if that's what it's called).
@@mcmarshallcluhan6884 It’s surprising to me as well. Back in the early days of threadless headsets, I saw quite a few catastrophic failures in our shop due to people performing their own conversions in that manner.
Should’ve got a Campagnolo sponsor. Then that Pinarello would have been home again in Italy, you’d have gone SR with cables, and chosen a great matching wheelset.
I've a neo retro bike too and the "game changer" upgrade was the fork! I've bought a 1" columbus minimal full carbon and it's super nice, light, stiff and seems to really ride a modern bike!
Stans does work in tubs. The seal forms between the tube and the tyre casing, good up to 80 psi in a tub and a tubed clincher. It works better in tubed tyres than it does in tubeless.
I rode tubulars for decades- and still miss them. They ride so great, and they're the right tire for a retro build. As for a flat, no big deal. You pull the flat tire, put on a replacement (held on to the back of your seat with a Binda toe strap), and then just finish your ride a bit more carefully.
@@rg807 I ride tubs the same as you used to. Yes and I would pop a tyre on, or ride home on a flat. If you look after your tyres and keep them inflated punctures are much less of a problem than the industry and their advertorial information would have us believe. I ran over 5000 miles on tubs and clinchers last year not one puncture. In fact I had to replace the tubes in my commuter bike because the sealent was a bit lumpy in the tubes.
Warning DO NOT RIDE THAT BIKE!Until you fix the clamp onto the threaded part of the fork. The wall thickness at point is about 0.4mm, my friend was lucky, his sheared off when he stared his ride again, before that he was going 50 km down a hill. You need a stem quill adapter shaft
Even those are sketchy. I would just buy a 1 inch threadless fork and buy a thomson stem without the use of any adapters, it would be the safest and most neo classical look.
@@123a-o5d I know Shimano makes one, and I would only use that one. But I've seen a lot of them brake, so I would never use them. The Thomson stem is not safer, it's just a great quality stem that has the proper style for this bike.
Absolutely agree, I suffered such a failure when climbing a small hill down here in the New Forest, just thankful that I was with a mate and he was able to call out the rescue unit (his missus 😁). Oh and just to be clear, there is absolutely nothing wrong with using a quill adapter stem, after all the original bars were fitted using such an arrangement 🤷, and if weight is the issue why not revert to the original set up 😂
In glad you showed the BTS struggles building the bike. Gives the bike and video bit more character and feels a bit more organic rather than movie magic.
Bar and stem, Deda quill stem and bar which you can buy brand new. Has the right shape, looks the business, no issues with dodgy shims. Di2 is a bold choice. More power to you for making it happen.
I personally think he kind of ruined the bike, going with Di2, having to drill random holes in the bike. I personally think a nice mech groupset would've fit the retro look of the exterior, along with chrome stem & handlebars and some color in the handlebar tape would've made it all be a bit more coherent.
Honestly, this whole project seems to be a sponsor gig that they pitched Shimano in and didn't give much though. They didn't pay attention to the limitations of the provided equipment available in the sponsor bin. Now they are facing the harsh reality. The fact that they didn't even glued the tires sounds borderline disrespectful to the sponsors and us viewers. And, the worst part to me is that this series made me lose a good deal in a Monviso that was on sale where I live. I've should bough it earlier...
What I've learned from this series: new electronic groupsets and "aerobars" are full of faff, and you're better off with a mechanical groupset and traditional bars.
Yeah it’s a real shame to get into bikes in the modern corporate marketing world. Just like pretty much everything now, it’s all superfluous bs that’s overpriced and over designed when 5 years ago everything worked perfectly.
I love that Alex approaches this experiment with an open mind. Of course there will be technical challenges. Of course it won’t reach everybody’s aesthetic perfection. Instead, we got to experience the process vicariously and the result is a very unique bike. I loved the concept of this series, and would probably attempt something similar if I had the means. Thanks Alex!
ALEX: I wanted to build a bike rather than a work of art. ALSO ALEX: I felt matching the wheels to the groupset was more important than convenience and useability. Also, I have to say that, while I love this build, for the most part I'm afraid that stem is a horrible (and dangerous) big fat bodge. Bin it, buy a quill stem adapter (or better still, in aesthetic terms, a traditional quill stem) and save yourself from a potentially nasty accident when the steerer tube shears off at the thread. Threded steerer tubes aren't designed to be used with threadless stems.
Alex , I just did this myself with my old steel frame Marinoni. This was not planned when last winter I sent the bike back to Marinoni to get a badly needed repaint. I got to choose the colour scheme and it looks utterly fantastic. After getting it back and looking at my old Campagnola 8 speed Athena with a few other upgrades, I realized I'd be faced with ever declining replacement parts, so out of the blue I totally revamped that idea and decided to go with a whoe new groupset, choosing the beautiful silver version of the Centaur 11 speed. No electronics, no rim brakes. When going to my mechanic, I saw this gorgeous set of rims and found out they were Camapgnola Sirrocco, so replaced my old Mavics with that too. When it was done, it looks utterly fantastic, people see and ask about it all the time. I'd be surprsied if those brakes are much less effective than disc brakes you can come to shockingly quick stops if need be and the shifting is silky smooth. Couldn;t be happier with my choices!
Hi Alex, for modernized older road bikes like this, I highly suggest you consider looking into this American business called Innicycle. They make a 1 1/8" threadless conversion kit for bikes with 1" threaded head tubes. It uses aluminum cups with sealed cartridge bearings that all secure to the bike as strongly and safely as seemingly possible. There doesn't seem to be a more secure, safer way to mount modern stems and handlebars.
This series has been awesome, especially this post mortem video. Really enjoy your perspective and manner in which you present/discuss things on GCN. Particularly, the compromise aspect is so important, and an area where bike building can teach us about life… 😊 Keep up the great work Alex!
I did a neo-retro MTB build on an '09 Trek 69er. All modern parts, custom paint with the old frame. Changed to a more trail build with a 120mm tapered fork, AXS drivetrain and dropper. Modern wheels with compatibility for XD plus mix and matched hub and rim sizes was the biggest challenge. I started with Bontrager Line Comp 30's which came in a 27.5 non-boost option + a boost 29er match. It worked but left me with a narrow rear tire. I ended up custom building an I9/Stan's Flow wheel set true to the bike. These projects normally have some hurdles, but they are so worth it!
i love the idea of this build - it's kind of like 'restomodding' in the car world, where you also have limitations you need to work around. i also love the idea of renewing old things. my one hang-up for doing this personally is tire clearance, though - i would want to be able to run 28s or 30s.
I hope the 'what you didn't see' portion of the video doesn't involve Alex in hospital because of that dangerous stem conversion... You guys have done bike videos for more than 10 years now, that shim conversion from threaded to threadless is a bit worrying all things considered. Quill stem or an adapter is needed to make that safe.
1" to 1/8" quill adapters are not good either. I have a thing for neo-retro and I've done a fair bit of projects, albeit without the electronic nonsense. I've snapped 2 quill adapters, one no name aluminium and one deda aluminium one. I default to heavy steel ones now, despite the weight and aesthetics compromise, or if budget allows I source an uncut fork and do a proper threadless job. For the record I am 65kg casual rider. In any case these are money burning vanity projects, do not make any sense for a casual rider without a mid life crisis like me.
My 2009 Ritchey Break-Away Ti/Carbon has been rebuilt several times to keep it up to date, and currently sports Sram Red ETAP Wi-Fly, Ritchey carbon aero bars and Vision Metron 40 carbon wheels, and rides like a dream! Sram ETAP is definitely a game changer when updating an older frame. My other bikes are similarly updated from time to time. I love fettling my bikes!
absolutely LOVE neo retro resto-mods A gorgeous steel frame is as beautiful as a carbon frame if not more bold, defined and minimal used to be a time where I salivated over carbon, have had a few frames, eh, costs more, I'm not racing, I'm biking
There is usually always a problem when doing a build like this, no matter how much you prepare there is normally something that can hinder the build, one bonus is that the build is for you, i find people want you to build or bring their bike to look like yours without taking into consideration the costs & time it takes to complete, I like what you have done, the rims look nice against the frame colour as do the other modern parts to, nice build alix, hope you feel it was worth it.
I have several older frames using modern (well mechanical 10 and 11 speed Campy modern 😅) group sets and they ride great. Favourite is a Colnago Competition on 11 speed Record… Steel, classic geometry and it just works… Not the fastest thing out there, but neither am I.
Having built up a 1990s steel frame with modern parts (mechanical 11 speed Ultegra), I can totally relate to it taking far longer than anticipated. Just the research into finding things that work together and give the look you want takes ages. I am currently on my 3rd attempt at suitable bottle cages!
This past weekend, I converted my old 1970s Fuji roadbike to a flat bar gravel bike. Stretched the frame to a 135mm rear end, swapped out the freehub body and axle on the original wheels, mounted a 1×11 set up with a 38t modern wide narrow chainring on the original shimano 600 crank and an 11-36t cassette on the back. The derailleur is a modified early 80s Suntour xt, and it's got a bar mounted friction shifter. A pair of modern mountain bike levers paired to 50 year old center pull brakes and a pair of knobby 35mm tires, and it is truly a bizarre bike but an absolute blast to ride on dirt road and cross country trails.
21 years ago I tried to retrofit my then 21 year old steel bike to be more like a then modern bike, and it didn't take long for me the realize that it was a waste of time. The main issue was that the axle width was too narrow for modern wheels, but while I can't recall the specifics there were various other things that just wouldn't work. So I ended up building up my own custom bike on a Ti frame, and am so glad that I did as it was a much, much better bike than my previous one. Now, just as many years into the "newer" bike as I was into my previous bike back then, it's also kind of pointless to upgrade it to be more like current bikes. It won't take disc brakes, is too narrow for a through axle, the head tube is 1", and so on. So I'll keep it as it is, and just replace parts as they wear out. If I want a modern bike then I'll buy or build up a modern bike. Bikes belong in their era.
I guess that SRAM probably wouldn't want to sponsor a (re)build with an eTap rim brake group set & Zipp tubs, but it would make an interesting comparison....
Um quill stem please. They are around ! Neo meaning New, meaning build today.. ie build up a retro bike today… Not sure what was going on here. Look at the struggle to build this thing. Opportunity to unlearn was missed here.. This bike is a less technical bike to build, was it not shouting back at you?
Your bike turned out Amazing! Two years ago I built my Tribike with used parts. It’s a 2005 Cervelo P3 aluminum. Disk rear wheel and a deep front. I get a ton of complaints on it and it’s a blast to ride. I had my local bike shop put it together and they had some of the same challenges you did.
I love this bike like it is. I would only use a chrome stem that matches the fork. But I guess you should have to stay within the Shimano productrange to be compliant with the sponsor of the video.
Great job Alex! I built a 1984 Trek to have Shimano 105 R5800 eleven speed group set. It was a great project. To your point about being prepared for challenges and delays. I wanted to use some Mavic wheels from 1989 but had to install a new hub (and learn how to lace the spokes). It was a long, yet fun and rewarding project.
Hack not a bodge? Sorry but you're wrong on that one. Anyone confused, watch 4:00-4:05. Not only are those shims not meant to go over threads, but there's not nearly enough steerer for that stem. No way that top bolt is clamping on. That's extremely dangerous and shouldn't be promoted by GCN.
When I route cables through a frame or handlebars, I use small hooks, loops, and tweezers to guide them out the hole I want. Works better than the magnet guide.
It looks a bit like a fixie, which is the kind of look that I'm after. Very well done, it's gorgeous! More of these kind of Neo retro builds! If you want something really challenging, try to convert it to a 1x (there can be chainline issues). Also throwing in some really interesting (non UCI legal) frame shapes that our rich cycling history produced, make for the most interesting Neo retro builds. A GT edge (triple triangle), Kestrel 500 SCI (no seat tube) or a Gitane Mach 310 (low-pro) would totally work in my opinion.
Nothing is better than a bike build, my current bike is just three years old but the only original part on it is the frontfork, replaced everything myself and loved the process of choosing parts and installing them! I love your new steer setup it looks really great now. And however I do understand why you opted for these wheels, something more shallow would appeal more to me but hey that just me!
Every mechanical thing I build, I build it for me, and I give a shit on other opinions. Most of These „experts“ talk a lot and have not built al lot themselves. So that‘s the best advice in this video. Keep on building!
Redoing my old 2007 LeMond PopRad steel frame cyclocross to a soon-to-be retiree gravel cruiser. A "learning experience" in every meaning of that word going to full GRX 1x w hydraulic inline levers for my top bar loafing. On the home stretch now and cockpit cable routing is a challenge with my oddly shaped kitchen sink handlebars. So you're right on target with the more $$$ and lots more time and unexpected issues than you'd begin to guess. Looking forward to the final product once I get more hydraulic tidbits in. Good luck all .
Looks much better now. I recently revived my old steel road bike. I had to bring the handlebars closer to me as I'm not 18 anymore. Bought modern-ish compact drop bar, and shorter quill stem. Whilst I was thinking about getting the 1 to 1/8 inch adapter and using modem stem, I'm glad I chose classic quill stem. It's an old bike with slim steel tubes, I think some parts of it should stay as they were.
I realize Shimano sponsored the build, but I have to say going with SRAM would have removed a LOT of the complications given they don’t have the seat post battery OR the idiotic “wired if mechanical brakes” design flaw. I rebuilt my 1999 Serotta CTi the 3rd time over in December using SRAM Force and can’t be happier. You are 100% right about “it always costs more than you think” - my aha was the fact that SRAM uses the XDR freehub - totally incompatible with a Shimano wheel set … that was the kicker for me. But overall, I think it is amazing to breathe new life into a frame you’ve loved for years. And overall, it was less expensive than a brand new bike with comparable components. Keep making great videos! Thanks!
For awhile, I had a Litespeed setup with a threadless stem on a threaded fork. It occurred to me one day while out riding, that I had created a potentially very dangerous situation. The threaded fork steerer is designed to be loaded in such a way that the expander is below the threads, in a thicker part of the stem, with the quill of the stem reinforcing the steerer and distributing the stress. When I clamped the threadless stem to the steerer, I was not only leaving only a thin tube to take the load, but that load was concentrated on a built-in stress riser -- the headset threads. The steerer of a threadless fork has thicker walls and lacks this stress riser (or should, as Specialized found out the hard way, years ago). What you never want is to be holding onto the handlebars with them no longer attached to the fork: that is what is called "a bad thing." My suggestion is to either find a threadless fork, and change the headset as appropriate (1-inch threadless forks are available), or use a quill adapter that has a quill and expander that go down inside the steerer like a quill stem, with a smooth section that protrudes above the headset for the threadless stem to clamp to. Also, I think you are fine with the tubulars. It has been my experience that a 25 mm tubular rides a lot like a 28 mm clincher, so when you are tight on clearance with these older frames, tubulars can help compensate. Just don't get two flats on one ride.
Groupset weights recorded changed by 1.4 KG. In TWENTY YEARS. Not replacing one of the best groups of all time would've left plenty room for: INNICYCLE HEADSET converter!!!, modern ergonomics, modern gear ratios/hollowtech cranks for weight, some closer to optimal tires 25-28, and just-as-heavy-as-carbon modern al clinchers. For any first-time builders, you're welcome. Beautiful bike either way!
New bars are perfect. I'd argue that tubular tires are the perfect bridge between old school and modern. I've heard tubular tape makes it so much easier than the old fashioned way! Report back on that.
I know it was sponsered by shimano, but for everyone else, it is lot easier and much cheaper if u do it with sram force AXS. Then u can select a clincher wheels, from HED for example, with aluminium brake track.
Great video and great pointers. After building a similar whacky project bike I couldn't agree more. One day I'll enter it to the bike vault. That one day when it's finally finished. Who knows when that will be 😂.
Great video. Might I suggest that you simply drop down to a local charity shop like Recycles in Swindon and get them to build one for you at a fraction of the price. They’re always getting some really nice retro bikes in. I dropped off a nice Chris Boardman carbon road race bike with the world championship colours on in pearlescent white to them. In return they made me up a nice classic bike. I think there is a market for a swap-shop like this that helps the Samaritans and other similar charities out,whilst also helping us swap out old kit we no longer use much.
Others have pointed it out, but shim over threads is a bodge. Use a Profile Designs adaptor or a Deda quill stem, don't want Alex to lose his teeth if he ever gets the time to ride this pretty bike.
I’m a firm believer of internal cable routing on handlebars should be started with the handlebars off the bike. I’ve done it with various different grated stem and bars and found it. It’s much easier than trying to manipulate it in a repair stand than it would be if you’re sitting at the workbench or on the couch at first when I did this new pro EVOO bar I thought oh my God how am I gonna do this? It turned out to be fairly simple. I always start with breakable feed my lines through whether it’s hydraulic or SIS housing. The cables are much easier to manipulate the handlebar trying to do it on the bike is a pain in the butt.
Lovely build - my restomod on a 90s frame is my favourite bike. But as others on here have said, please consider a quill stem adapter with a threaded headset - clamping onto a threaded streerer won't be very strong even with a shim over the top - the threaded section could crumple or shear off completely. Or alternatively put on some forks with a threadless steerer (columbus minimal available in 1 inch).
I did a similar thing with my 2007 Lemond Alpe d'Huez. Went with Sram Force AXS which was (is?) available in a rim brake version so the conversion was, dare I say, unbelievably easy. I used a decent alloy wheel (Zipp 30 Course) and can fit 28c tires into the frame.
Love the concept and the looks of the finished bike now it has age-appropriate handlebars. Personally, I would have gone for a mechanical group set, apart from that spot on, including the tubs. Now sort the stem out and go and ride the bloody thing.
There are a few very tidy pieces of kit that allow a modern bar to be fitted to a quill stem and I can see a time where wireless shifting will be retro fitted to every working bike because it will be so easy to do.
The first thing I did when carbon forks became available from Reynolds was to swap my steel fork out of my Reynolds 853/631 frame for a CF one. I think it was a 1" steerer and as flexy as heck (by today's standards), but weighing less than ½ of the steel one, the handling improved markedly. & D-A 7700 didn't slow me down too much. This is one of Alex's "Flogging a dead horse because he has run out of more useful things to do" video series.
I did this with my TREK 2200 (yr. 2000) And SPECIALIZED TARMAC (yr2012). Replaced BB, wheels, saddle, and drive. Moved everything over to the TREK, stripped it and repainted. The SPECIALIZED got SRAM FORCE AXIS,
Well Alex, you've found that, as I said before, "fail to plan and you plan to fail". Re the tubular tyres, ok if you're in a race with team support but you have to be an absolute lunatic to go for any sort of unsupported, or self supported ride far from home with tyres for which you can't repair a puncture. This series has been interesting and I have certainly learnt a few things.
I've built up a few bikes, vintage steel and modern carbon frames, in recent years. But it was definitely very much easier in the 1960s. I bought a Mercian frame for a Xmas present to myself, and built it up ready to ride it the next day. It rode well enough for me to win the New Forest Boxing Day Ten, ☃(possibly the inaugural one), by over a minute.
Here's my approach. I still ride a 2004 TCR. Not old but certainly dated. I have been improving it thru the years. Compact crank, new BB, new headet, all ultegra, brooks saddle. Make a much better bike for me at 70yo. I wish i had 2000$ for better wheels, but no. Good to see an approach to update a frame to continue to still use. Hope you get to ride it soon.
not to brag but, when new Di2 released and Si mentioned rim brake was wired still, I had planned and measured how to achieve this. Had to use 2 wires connected to make the distance comfortably. Come on Alex!
The -17 degree version of that Pro LT stem would be a better choice as it would wind up parallel with the top tube and give you slightly lower and more aero position. Coupled with Vibe aero pursuit Alu Bars for the win.
Loved what you did with this project Alex, & the cockpit is much better looking. I’m a Neo Retro fan & doing something similar Priced out upgrades for my Neo Retro Modern Fusion Chambéry D’Huez(200$ Carbon OCLV Greg LeMond 55 frame 08’ LeMond/Bontrager Carbon Alpe D’Huez fork.) comes out to around $3,790.76 so about 4 Grand of upgrades. Been riding it with stock parts, 105. Redshift Stem & dual seatpost, Hunt sprint aero alloy wheels, onyx vesper hubs, wolf tooth headset, new old stock Bontrager 52/42/30 & gonna fiddle with seeing if I can make a 11speed work on a triple crank. Coefficient AR 36mm dropbars & finally Gravel King SSR 28mm tires for stability & grip. Yes it’s not most modern but it’s a bike I enjoy.
That is a nice piece of wall art and I am sure it would be fun to toddle around the park on nice sunny day. Nevertheless, if I had to say Hack/Bodge, it would definitely be the nicest and most expensive BODGE of the year.
Tubs are for racing, not for just riding around. They need to be glued on so tight, that your thumbs will be sore when you have to remove them, when they are worn out. PS. Glueing Tubs, shouldn't take more than 30 minutes, spread over two or three days.
Next step is to test on the new rig at Silverstone. My bet is that it will outperform many if not all so-called "modern" bikes, especially with the tubs!
Motivated to do your own bike build now?🧑🔧🚲
I've done two custom bike builds, but I did them both with modern parts to reduce issues with compatibility.
Nice build
Now I was hoping for some follow up vids where u took that bike on
a bit of an epic sportive or something just to see how it performed.
But .......
I'm not sure , given my history , I would want to take a tubular bike on an
epic journey. However if u did decide to do an interesting ride u could
always swap the wheels out for a set of clinchers.
BTW , I'm always messing about with bike builds, I cant remember the
time I bought a complete bike. I like buying a frame and then choosing
every component on it so u get exactly what u want without swapping
out lots of components
I fitted a Shimano Dura-Ace 9070 Di2 groupset, including wheels on my 1989 Harry Hall frame.
Looks nicer with the new front end.
Have a similar build. You wont regret the tubulars once you glue them on. Steel frame + tubulars are super comfy and I have 88mm rims + alu seatpost on mine, but it's still smooth. Will probably build something similar when my daughter gets older, maybe revised with a sane wheelset.
This is a very good "How NOT to set up your stem" episode. You are basically risking your life by riding that bike and i'm not joking. You need to put an adapter in place of the clasic 1" stem and only then you install the threadless stem by fixing it on the adapter you just installed. This is the proper way to do it.
Alex's insights remind me of one of Dad's old sayings (usually muttered in frustration half way through a job) - Everything is more difficult than you think, takes longer than you expect, and costs more than you budgeted for.
@Corryvreckan23 was tou father a contractor by any chance, or just a victim of one?🤣
I work in the trades (flooring) and this is damn near a mantra, lol.
@@ghowell13 No, I usually heard it in the context of whatever project he was working on round the house at the time. They all worked out in the end (he was pretty good at them), but there was always that one moment where something didn't go as planned.
@@Corryvreckan23 fair enough. I think that's what makes dads dads, after all.
Wise man.
having done numerous bike rebuilds even putting something back together with minimal changes can be challenging
Thank feck! That previous bar stem looked like a Transformer stuck mid transition.
Or the head of the Creature from Alien.
H. R. Geiger, eat your heart out.
Absolutely disgusting. Mind blowing anyone would make that choice.
Has anybody ever seen the old scifi B-movie Battle Beyond the Stars? Look it up and you'll see what I mean!🤣🤣
Like others, I'd caution about the stem arrangement. A quill stem locks into the steerer tube below the threads. The threads on the steerer tube are just to provide bearing preload. The arrangement as shown puts all the loads through the threads, which are the weakest part of the steerer tube.
Colnago master precise fork is offered with a 1” threadless option. Campagnolo SR 12 still offers fully mechanical groupo…plus Bora WTO for rim breaks is still available…all a bit pricey I know but a joy to ride and will out last me.
I am of course a Neo retro fan…
Always good content and great community…cheers everyone!
That fork steerer will fail. It is not a matter of if it fails, but when it will fail.
You can convert it by assembling that headset with all of the threaded parts, then installing a quill to threadless adapter in place of the quill stem, then installing your threadless stem to that. Do not cheap out on the adapter. Get a forged aluminum, not a cheap cast piece.
The most robust assembly is just using a high quality quill stem, and the right size handlebar for it.
Really. The method used just created stress risers out of every thread on the fork steerer.
shocked to see he's done this. Is there no oversight from an actual mechanic on this network? This is the host of the tech show. I understand its just an entertainment channel but this is egregious
i'm not an engineer or even a mechanic but it appears to me that the shim only sits on the tips of the (crushed) threads, which seems like not a lot of material interface (if that's what it's called).
@@ToddChaddingtonEsqnot only that; the steerer is too short for the stem. pretty hard to watch
@@mcmarshallcluhan6884 It’s surprising to me as well. Back in the early days of threadless headsets, I saw quite a few catastrophic failures in our shop due to people performing their own conversions in that manner.
Should’ve got a Campagnolo sponsor. Then that Pinarello would have been home again in Italy, you’d have gone SR with cables, and chosen a great matching wheelset.
SRAM AXS is such a better move for a Neo-retro build. The wireless aspect makes it so much easier!
I've a neo retro bike too and the "game changer" upgrade was the fork! I've bought a 1" columbus minimal full carbon and it's super nice, light, stiff and seems to really ride a modern bike!
Regarding tubular tyres - I don't need to try and change your mind, the first flat you get will do it for me 😁
He just has to put a little Stan’s sealant in them and voila 😂
Stans does work in tubs. The seal forms between the tube and the tyre casing, good up to 80 psi in a tub and a tubed clincher. It works better in tubed tyres than it does in tubeless.
I rode tubulars for decades- and still miss them. They ride so great, and they're the right tire for a retro build.
As for a flat, no big deal. You pull the flat tire, put on a replacement (held on to the back of your seat with a Binda toe strap), and then just finish your ride a bit more carefully.
@@tobycolin6271 yeow, very low pressure for a tubular (115-160psi), sub-optimal, but enough to get home
@@rg807 I ride tubs the same as you used to. Yes and I would pop a tyre on, or ride home on a flat. If you look after your tyres and keep them inflated punctures are much less of a problem than the industry and their advertorial information would have us believe. I ran over 5000 miles on tubs and clinchers last year not one puncture. In fact I had to replace the tubes in my commuter bike because the sealent was a bit lumpy in the tubes.
Warning DO NOT RIDE THAT BIKE!Until you fix the clamp onto the threaded part of the fork. The wall thickness at point is about 0.4mm, my friend was lucky, his sheared off when he stared his ride again, before that he was going 50 km down a hill. You need a stem quill adapter shaft
Even those are sketchy. I would just buy a 1 inch threadless fork and buy a thomson stem without the use of any adapters, it would be the safest and most neo classical look.
Dangerous to use a threadless stem on a thread fork.
@@Megadeth6633 I have a quill stem adaptor. It's so heavy, I assumed it was safe! Also, why a Thomson stem in particular?
@@123a-o5d I know Shimano makes one, and I would only use that one. But I've seen a lot of them brake, so I would never use them.
The Thomson stem is not safer, it's just a great quality stem that has the proper style for this bike.
Absolutely agree, I suffered such a failure when climbing a small hill down here in the New Forest, just thankful that I was with a mate and he was able to call out the rescue unit (his missus 😁). Oh and just to be clear, there is absolutely nothing wrong with using a quill adapter stem, after all the original bars were fitted using such an arrangement 🤷, and if weight is the issue why not revert to the original set up 😂
yeah the handlebars looked like if a grandma had a burst fade
Difference is those bars would look good on the right bike. A burst fade is going to make anyone look like a bell end.
*sighs
Time to google a burst fade.
@@glenni249 Wait, there are photos of styling a burst fade that looks ugly, but it mostly looks really good are we talking about the same haircut?
@@dan_lazarodoesn’t look good on your granny
@@pureshiiteDoesn’t look good on anybody. 😂
In glad you showed the BTS struggles building the bike.
Gives the bike and video bit more character and feels a bit more organic rather than movie magic.
Bar and stem, Deda quill stem and bar which you can buy brand new. Has the right shape, looks the business, no issues with dodgy shims. Di2 is a bold choice. More power to you for making it happen.
Indeed. That shim looks like it may damage the steerer threads. A quill stem and traditional headset was the way to go.
I personally think he kind of ruined the bike, going with Di2, having to drill random holes in the bike. I personally think a nice mech groupset would've fit the retro look of the exterior, along with chrome stem & handlebars and some color in the handlebar tape would've made it all be a bit more coherent.
Honestly, this whole project seems to be a sponsor gig that they pitched Shimano in and didn't give much though. They didn't pay attention to the limitations of the provided equipment available in the sponsor bin. Now they are facing the harsh reality.
The fact that they didn't even glued the tires sounds borderline disrespectful to the sponsors and us viewers.
And, the worst part to me is that this series made me lose a good deal in a Monviso that was on sale where I live. I've should bough it earlier...
Di2 is a very bad choice
Those Deda quill stem and bar setups have always looked so good. Then pair it with a Chris King threaded headset...🤤
What I've learned from this series: new electronic groupsets and "aerobars" are full of faff, and you're better off with a mechanical groupset and traditional bars.
And external shifter cable routing
@@SirBrass yes please.
I would've given that frame what it deserved: full mechanical Campagnolo.
Meh, just go full wireless.. electronic derailleurs are awesome.
Yeah it’s a real shame to get into bikes in the modern corporate marketing world. Just like pretty much everything now, it’s all superfluous bs that’s overpriced and over designed when 5 years ago everything worked perfectly.
I like the transparency in showing the struggles and frustrations
Because GCN videos became so polished and sponsorship-led that they had to tone it down to be in any way relatable...
I love that Alex approaches this experiment with an open mind. Of course there will be technical challenges. Of course it won’t reach everybody’s aesthetic perfection.
Instead, we got to experience the process vicariously and the result is a very unique bike.
I loved the concept of this series, and would probably attempt something similar if I had the means.
Thanks Alex!
ALEX: I wanted to build a bike rather than a work of art.
ALSO ALEX: I felt matching the wheels to the groupset was more important than convenience and useability.
Also, I have to say that, while I love this build, for the most part I'm afraid that stem is a horrible (and dangerous) big fat bodge. Bin it, buy a quill stem adapter (or better still, in aesthetic terms, a traditional quill stem) and save yourself from a potentially nasty accident when the steerer tube shears off at the thread. Threded steerer tubes aren't designed to be used with threadless stems.
Alex , I just did this myself with my old steel frame Marinoni. This was not planned when last winter I sent the bike back to Marinoni to get a badly needed repaint. I got to choose the colour scheme and it looks utterly fantastic. After getting it back and looking at my old Campagnola 8 speed Athena with a few other upgrades, I realized I'd be faced with ever declining replacement parts, so out of the blue I totally revamped that idea and decided to go with a whoe new groupset, choosing the beautiful silver version of the Centaur 11 speed. No electronics, no rim brakes. When going to my mechanic, I saw this gorgeous set of rims and found out they were Camapgnola Sirrocco, so replaced my old Mavics with that too. When it was done, it looks utterly fantastic, people see and ask about it all the time. I'd be surprsied if those brakes are much less effective than disc brakes you can come to shockingly quick stops if need be and the shifting is silky smooth. Couldn;t be happier with my choices!
Hi Alex, for modernized older road bikes like this, I highly suggest you consider looking into this American business called Innicycle. They make a 1 1/8" threadless conversion kit for bikes with 1" threaded head tubes. It uses aluminum cups with sealed cartridge bearings that all secure to the bike as strongly and safely as seemingly possible. There doesn't seem to be a more secure, safer way to mount modern stems and handlebars.
I agree! I used an InniCycle conversion for a 1" to 1 1/8 coversion on a 90's Ti bike and it looks good and works great!
Great material. I also like that you encourage people to search for used gear and play with their bike builds. Very refreshing for such a big chanel.
This series has been awesome, especially this post mortem video. Really enjoy your perspective and manner in which you present/discuss things on GCN. Particularly, the compromise aspect is so important, and an area where bike building can teach us about life… 😊 Keep up the great work Alex!
I did a neo-retro MTB build on an '09 Trek 69er. All modern parts, custom paint with the old frame.
Changed to a more trail build with a 120mm tapered fork, AXS drivetrain and dropper.
Modern wheels with compatibility for XD plus mix and matched hub and rim sizes was the biggest challenge.
I started with Bontrager Line Comp 30's which came in a 27.5 non-boost option + a boost 29er match. It worked but left me with a narrow rear tire. I ended up custom building an I9/Stan's Flow wheel set true to the bike.
These projects normally have some hurdles, but they are so worth it!
Neo retro builds are the coolest. Keep doing them
i love the idea of this build - it's kind of like 'restomodding' in the car world, where you also have limitations you need to work around. i also love the idea of renewing old things. my one hang-up for doing this personally is tire clearance, though - i would want to be able to run 28s or 30s.
I hope the 'what you didn't see' portion of the video doesn't involve Alex in hospital because of that dangerous stem conversion... You guys have done bike videos for more than 10 years now, that shim conversion from threaded to threadless is a bit worrying all things considered. Quill stem or an adapter is needed to make that safe.
1" to 1/8" quill adapters are not good either. I have a thing for neo-retro and I've done a fair bit of projects, albeit without the electronic nonsense.
I've snapped 2 quill adapters, one no name aluminium and one deda aluminium one. I default to heavy steel ones now, despite the weight and aesthetics compromise, or if budget allows I source an uncut fork and do a proper threadless job.
For the record I am 65kg casual rider.
In any case these are money burning vanity projects, do not make any sense for a casual rider without a mid life crisis like me.
My 2009 Ritchey Break-Away Ti/Carbon has been rebuilt several times to keep it up to date, and currently sports Sram Red ETAP Wi-Fly, Ritchey carbon aero bars and Vision Metron 40 carbon wheels, and rides like a dream! Sram ETAP is definitely a game changer when updating an older frame. My other bikes are similarly updated from time to time. I love fettling my bikes!
That’s why I used Sram AXS when I did a resto-mod.
No frame drilling.
No issues running cables.
Piece of cake.
absolutely LOVE neo retro resto-mods
A gorgeous steel frame is as beautiful as a carbon frame if not more bold, defined and minimal
used to be a time where I salivated over carbon, have had a few frames, eh, costs more, I'm not racing, I'm biking
There is usually always a problem when doing a build like this, no matter how much you prepare there is normally something that can hinder the build, one bonus is that the build is for you, i find people want you to build or bring their bike to look like yours without taking into consideration the costs & time it takes to complete,
I like what you have done, the rims look nice against the frame colour as do the other modern parts to, nice build alix, hope you feel it was worth it.
I have several older frames using modern (well mechanical 10 and 11 speed Campy modern 😅) group sets and they ride great. Favourite is a Colnago Competition on 11 speed Record… Steel, classic geometry and it just works… Not the fastest thing out there, but neither am I.
Having built up a 1990s steel frame with modern parts (mechanical 11 speed Ultegra), I can totally relate to it taking far longer than anticipated. Just the research into finding things that work together and give the look you want takes ages. I am currently on my 3rd attempt at suitable bottle cages!
#1 Use a quill stem. #2 Use cable-actuated derailleurs with external cable routing. #3 Use clincher wheels and tires.
This past weekend, I converted my old 1970s Fuji roadbike to a flat bar gravel bike. Stretched the frame to a 135mm rear end, swapped out the freehub body and axle on the original wheels, mounted a 1×11 set up with a 38t modern wide narrow chainring on the original shimano 600 crank and an 11-36t cassette on the back. The derailleur is a modified early 80s Suntour xt, and it's got a bar mounted friction shifter. A pair of modern mountain bike levers paired to 50 year old center pull brakes and a pair of knobby 35mm tires, and it is truly a bizarre bike but an absolute blast to ride on dirt road and cross country trails.
Of course you were right Alex! The thing has Dura Ace cranks on it! Win win win in my book!
21 years ago I tried to retrofit my then 21 year old steel bike to be more like a then modern bike, and it didn't take long for me the realize that it was a waste of time. The main issue was that the axle width was too narrow for modern wheels, but while I can't recall the specifics there were various other things that just wouldn't work. So I ended up building up my own custom bike on a Ti frame, and am so glad that I did as it was a much, much better bike than my previous one.
Now, just as many years into the "newer" bike as I was into my previous bike back then, it's also kind of pointless to upgrade it to be more like current bikes. It won't take disc brakes, is too narrow for a through axle, the head tube is 1", and so on. So I'll keep it as it is, and just replace parts as they wear out. If I want a modern bike then I'll buy or build up a modern bike. Bikes belong in their era.
I guess that SRAM probably wouldn't want to sponsor a (re)build with an eTap rim brake group set & Zipp tubs, but it would make an interesting comparison....
Yes I agree, I converted a 14 year old titanium bike to SRAM etap, no holes, shifts great.....replaceable battery.
Yeah, I thought the same. However the 7700 that was on it before was way nicer looking.
Um quill stem please. They are around ! Neo meaning New, meaning build today.. ie build up a retro bike today… Not sure what was going on here. Look at the struggle to build this thing. Opportunity to unlearn was missed here.. This bike is a less technical bike to build, was it not shouting back at you?
Great video, something I have been thinking of for a while! Agree with the final handle bar choice. Looking forward to the first ride video.
Your bike turned out Amazing! Two years ago I built my Tribike with used parts. It’s a 2005 Cervelo P3 aluminum. Disk rear wheel and a deep front. I get a ton of complaints on it and it’s a blast to ride. I had my local bike shop put it together and they had some of the same challenges you did.
I'm sure you meant compliments
I love this bike like it is. I would only use a chrome stem that matches the fork. But I guess you should have to stay within the Shimano productrange to be compliant with the sponsor of the video.
Not sure a chrome stem would work with black bars. You’d have to do all silver, or as Alex has done, all black.
@@rob-c. chrome stem, but black frontcap.
Threaded headset, nice old school Cinelli stem, maybe silver handlebar too.
only possible if Shimano (sponsor of the video) would have a chrome stem in their portfolio
Agree, i would have gone with silver stem and also handlebars if i could. But with taping the bars it isn’t as critical as with the stem.
Great job Alex! I built a 1984 Trek to have Shimano 105 R5800 eleven speed group set. It was a great project. To your point about being prepared for challenges and delays. I wanted to use some Mavic wheels from 1989 but had to install a new hub (and learn how to lace the spokes). It was a long, yet fun and rewarding project.
I just think a classic frame with modern parts looks so dope
Hack not a bodge? Sorry but you're wrong on that one. Anyone confused, watch 4:00-4:05. Not only are those shims not meant to go over threads, but there's not nearly enough steerer for that stem. No way that top bolt is clamping on. That's extremely dangerous and shouldn't be promoted by GCN.
Tubs running with sealent are an every day choice.
I like the honesty in debrief - first build video’s looked too good to be true !:)
Looks fantastic though 👍
When I route cables through a frame or handlebars, I use small hooks, loops, and tweezers to guide them out the hole I want. Works better than the magnet guide.
It looks a bit like a fixie, which is the kind of look that I'm after.
Very well done, it's gorgeous!
More of these kind of Neo retro builds!
If you want something really challenging, try to convert it to a 1x (there can be chainline issues).
Also throwing in some really interesting (non UCI legal) frame shapes that our rich cycling history produced, make for the most interesting Neo retro builds.
A GT edge (triple triangle), Kestrel 500 SCI (no seat tube) or a Gitane Mach 310 (low-pro) would totally work in my opinion.
Nothing is better than a bike build, my current bike is just three years old but the only original part on it is the frontfork, replaced everything myself and loved the process of choosing parts and installing them! I love your new steer setup it looks really great now. And however I do understand why you opted for these wheels, something more shallow would appeal more to me but hey that just me!
You totally SHOULD have routed the wires externally for this bike. Looks better and is better for any maintenance
Phew thank goodness that handlebar has gone 😊❤ looks so much nicer ❤❤ Pete 🚴🏻👍🚴♀️
Every mechanical thing I build, I build it for me, and I give a shit on other opinions. Most of These „experts“ talk a lot and have not built al lot themselves.
So that‘s the best advice in this video. Keep on building!
Redoing my old 2007 LeMond PopRad steel frame cyclocross to a soon-to-be retiree gravel cruiser. A "learning experience" in every meaning of that word going to full GRX 1x w hydraulic inline levers for my top bar loafing. On the home stretch now and cockpit cable routing is a challenge with my oddly shaped kitchen sink handlebars. So you're right on target with the more $$$ and lots more time and unexpected issues than you'd begin to guess. Looking forward to the final product once I get more hydraulic tidbits in. Good luck all .
Over all: a really nice bike..👍
This bike looks great!!
Well done Alex, listened to the feedback and showed neo retro can work beautifully!
Looks much better now. I recently revived my old steel road bike. I had to bring the handlebars closer to me as I'm not 18 anymore. Bought modern-ish compact drop bar, and shorter quill stem. Whilst I was thinking about getting the 1 to 1/8 inch adapter and using modem stem, I'm glad I chose classic quill stem. It's an old bike with slim steel tubes, I think some parts of it should stay as they were.
I've never seen a more gorgeous headset in my life, it absolutely makes the front end
I realize Shimano sponsored the build, but I have to say going with SRAM would have removed a LOT of the complications given they don’t have the seat post battery OR the idiotic “wired if mechanical brakes” design flaw. I rebuilt my 1999 Serotta CTi the 3rd time over in December using SRAM Force and can’t be happier. You are 100% right about “it always costs more than you think” - my aha was the fact that SRAM uses the XDR freehub - totally incompatible with a Shimano wheel set … that was the kicker for me. But overall, I think it is amazing to breathe new life into a frame you’ve loved for years. And overall, it was less expensive than a brand new bike with comparable components. Keep making great videos! Thanks!
For awhile, I had a Litespeed setup with a threadless stem on a threaded fork. It occurred to me one day while out riding, that I had created a potentially very dangerous situation. The threaded fork steerer is designed to be loaded in such a way that the expander is below the threads, in a thicker part of the stem, with the quill of the stem reinforcing the steerer and distributing the stress. When I clamped the threadless stem to the steerer, I was not only leaving only a thin tube to take the load, but that load was concentrated on a built-in stress riser -- the headset threads. The steerer of a threadless fork has thicker walls and lacks this stress riser (or should, as Specialized found out the hard way, years ago). What you never want is to be holding onto the handlebars with them no longer attached to the fork: that is what is called "a bad thing." My suggestion is to either find a threadless fork, and change the headset as appropriate (1-inch threadless forks are available), or use a quill adapter that has a quill and expander that go down inside the steerer like a quill stem, with a smooth section that protrudes above the headset for the threadless stem to clamp to.
Also, I think you are fine with the tubulars. It has been my experience that a 25 mm tubular rides a lot like a 28 mm clincher, so when you are tight on clearance with these older frames, tubulars can help compensate. Just don't get two flats on one ride.
Groupset weights recorded changed by 1.4 KG. In TWENTY YEARS. Not replacing one of the best groups of all time would've left plenty room for: INNICYCLE HEADSET converter!!!, modern ergonomics, modern gear ratios/hollowtech cranks for weight, some closer to optimal tires 25-28, and just-as-heavy-as-carbon modern al clinchers. For any first-time builders, you're welcome. Beautiful bike either way!
New bars are perfect. I'd argue that tubular tires are the perfect bridge between old school and modern. I've heard tubular tape makes it so much easier than the old fashioned way! Report back on that.
That bike is beautiful. Great job! My only gripe would be you cut the steerer tube super low. No room for spacers.
I know it was sponsered by shimano, but for everyone else, it is lot easier and much cheaper if u do it with sram force AXS. Then u can select a clincher wheels, from HED for example, with aluminium brake track.
Yeah, choosing an actual wireless groupset seems like such an obvious choice for a build like this.
Great video and great pointers. After building a similar whacky project bike I couldn't agree more. One day I'll enter it to the bike vault. That one day when it's finally finished. Who knows when that will be 😂.
Great video. Might I suggest that you simply drop down to a local charity shop like Recycles in Swindon and get them to build one for you at a fraction of the price. They’re always getting some really nice retro bikes in. I dropped off a nice Chris Boardman carbon road race bike with the world championship colours on in pearlescent white to them. In return they made me up a nice classic bike. I think there is a market for a swap-shop like this that helps the Samaritans and other similar charities out,whilst also helping us swap out old kit we no longer use much.
Thanks, Alex, and with projects like this, I think a dance is best, you do part and let a bike shop pro do the rest.
Never compromise on your parts just because they match the groupset. Clincher tires and aluminum track is not something to give up on.
Others have pointed it out, but shim over threads is a bodge. Use a Profile Designs adaptor or a Deda quill stem, don't want Alex to lose his teeth if he ever gets the time to ride this pretty bike.
I love Alex bike build videos, would love to see it get ridden aswell!
Great video, now I'm looking forward to seeing it feature in a video where you take it on an epic ride!
I’m a firm believer of internal cable routing on handlebars should be started with the handlebars off the bike. I’ve done it with various different grated stem and bars and found it. It’s much easier than trying to manipulate it in a repair stand than it would be if you’re sitting at the workbench or on the couch at first when I did this new pro EVOO bar I thought oh my God how am I gonna do this? It turned out to be fairly simple. I always start with breakable feed my lines through whether it’s hydraulic or SIS housing. The cables are much easier to manipulate the handlebar trying to do it on the bike is a pain in the butt.
That now looks mint!
🍂
Dura-Ace C24 wheels would look lovely with that build!
Lovely build - my restomod on a 90s frame is my favourite bike. But as others on here have said, please consider a quill stem adapter with a threaded headset - clamping onto a threaded streerer won't be very strong even with a shim over the top - the threaded section could crumple or shear off completely. Or alternatively put on some forks with a threadless steerer (columbus minimal available in 1 inch).
I did a similar thing with my 2007 Lemond Alpe d'Huez. Went with Sram Force AXS which was (is?) available in a rim brake version so the conversion was, dare I say, unbelievably easy. I used a decent alloy wheel (Zipp 30 Course) and can fit 28c tires into the frame.
The 9100 wheels would be a much better option not only because of the clincher fitting but also the aluminium brake track
Love the concept and the looks of the finished bike now it has age-appropriate handlebars. Personally, I would have gone for a mechanical group set, apart from that spot on, including the tubs. Now sort the stem out and go and ride the bloody thing.
There are a few very tidy pieces of kit that allow a modern bar to be fitted to a quill stem and I can see a time where wireless shifting will be retro fitted to every working bike because it will be so easy to do.
I'd love to see a ride/review/Part 4, on this bike, maybe even comparing it to a modern bike.
The first thing I did when carbon forks became available from Reynolds was to swap my steel fork out of my Reynolds 853/631 frame for a CF one. I think it was a 1" steerer and as flexy as heck (by today's standards), but weighing less than ½ of the steel one, the handling improved markedly. & D-A 7700 didn't slow me down too much. This is one of Alex's "Flogging a dead horse because he has run out of more useful things to do" video series.
I did this with my TREK 2200 (yr. 2000) And SPECIALIZED TARMAC (yr2012).
Replaced BB, wheels, saddle, and drive. Moved everything over to the TREK, stripped it and repainted.
The SPECIALIZED got SRAM FORCE AXIS,
Well Alex, you've found that, as I said before, "fail to plan and you plan to fail".
Re the tubular tyres, ok if you're in a race with team support but you have to be an absolute lunatic to go for any sort of unsupported, or self supported ride far from home with tyres for which you can't repair a puncture.
This series has been interesting and I have certainly learnt a few things.
Tolles Video! Vielen Dank für die unterhaltsame Doku.
I've built up a few bikes, vintage steel and modern carbon frames, in recent years. But it was definitely very much easier in the 1960s. I bought a Mercian frame for a Xmas present to myself, and built it up ready to ride it the next day. It rode well enough for me to win the New Forest Boxing Day Ten, ☃(possibly the inaugural one), by over a minute.
With the fram as you have drilled it Id suggest spraying some waxoil within it to protect the steelwork from vapour build up.
I actually think that this build looks incredibly awesome now!
Looks so much better with the right handlebars.
Here's my approach. I still ride a 2004 TCR. Not old but certainly dated. I have been improving it thru the years. Compact crank, new BB, new headet, all ultegra, brooks saddle. Make a much better bike for me at 70yo. I wish i had 2000$ for better wheels, but no.
Good to see an approach to update a frame to continue to still use. Hope you get to ride it soon.
It looks brilliant, makes me want to rebuild my old Pinarello Prince...
not to brag but, when new Di2 released and Si mentioned rim brake was wired still, I had planned and measured how to achieve this. Had to use 2 wires connected to make the distance comfortably. Come on Alex!
The -17 degree version of that Pro LT stem would be a better choice as it would wind up parallel with the top tube and give you slightly lower and more aero position. Coupled with Vibe aero pursuit Alu Bars for the win.
Loved what you did with this project Alex, & the cockpit is much better looking. I’m a Neo Retro fan & doing something similar Priced out upgrades for my Neo Retro Modern Fusion Chambéry D’Huez(200$ Carbon OCLV Greg LeMond 55 frame 08’ LeMond/Bontrager Carbon Alpe D’Huez fork.) comes out to around $3,790.76 so about 4 Grand of upgrades. Been riding it with stock parts, 105.
Redshift Stem & dual seatpost, Hunt sprint aero alloy wheels, onyx vesper hubs, wolf tooth headset, new old stock Bontrager 52/42/30 & gonna fiddle with seeing if I can make a 11speed work on a triple crank. Coefficient AR 36mm dropbars & finally Gravel King SSR 28mm tires for stability & grip. Yes it’s not most modern but it’s a bike I enjoy.
Thank you for your comment. Good luck with your next project.
@@gcntech thank you 🙏🏾
That is a nice piece of wall art and I am sure it would be fun to toddle around the park on nice sunny day. Nevertheless, if I had to say Hack/Bodge, it would definitely be the nicest and most expensive BODGE of the year.
Tubs are for racing, not for just riding around. They need to be glued on so tight, that your thumbs will be sore when you have to remove them, when they are worn out.
PS. Glueing Tubs, shouldn't take more than 30 minutes, spread over two or three days.
handle bar set up is good nice bike
Truthful and honest like that
Next step is to test on the new rig at Silverstone. My bet is that it will outperform many if not all so-called "modern" bikes, especially with the tubs!
As a mechanic, every retro bike I've ridden with modern parts just feels like lighting money on fire