I was looking all over for the float height thank you for the 1 5/16 inch height, thats what I set mine to. Pretty sure one was higher as well like yours was. My venturi wouldn't budge either so I left it. I cleaned the tank out and mounted my battery, I hope to have it running soon. Next is the 2 front tires and maybe over the winter I plan on stripping and painting some panels :) Thanks again for this video !
Your dad is like the Jay Leno of tractors! And I mean that as a huge compliment. His videos are always very informative and he has a very calm demeanor. He even has the denim shirt!
Appreciate senior in detailing what screws do what in the operation of the carburetor. Helps when one has rebuilt them before in explaining the procedure. Simple devices that can cause catastrophic headaches.
I bought an ultrasonic cleaner...really made a difference in my opinion. I also started running non ethanol fuel, which is a lttle easier on the carbs over time...all my opinion.
After watching this, as a novice mechanic I feel I could rebuild a carburetor. Thank you so much for the detail you guys put into your videos, very much appreciated. Cheers from Australia
Senior, you have given me the confidence to rebuild the carb on my 1948 John Deere B.Your video was a tutorial on how to do this. Thank you. You're the best! :-)
Just so you know, the Marvel Schebler DLTX carb on that type of Deere is a totally different animal. There are lots of little tips and tricks that will help you do a good job. They are very simple there are just lots of places for hidden dirt to make running issues.
@@ronaldkearn3322 If you tear into it and have problems look for videos or don't be afraid to ask me, I've been into a few. The key to running good is getting all the plugs out which requires good tight screwdrivers (I've custom ground junk one's for a tight fit) and it REALLY helps to heat them up with a hand help propane torch, let them cool off and they'll come right out.
Great job, Sr.! I have rebuilt dozens of these carbs as well as H's and many others. The big thing is to be very careful with the idle drip jet (the small tube jet). They can twist off very easily on removal and/or installation. Other than that, the load (high speed) mixture screw is adjustable, but you usually have to back off the packing nut a half turn or so prior to adjusting.
Just rebuilt the carb on my 52 Briggs kit was more expensive than a new carb. Yes you do have to be very careful and it is technically a very simple job. Taking time and having finesse is very rewarding. When you’re done you have the same carb you’re grandfather took care of. It’s just a lump of medal at its core but it’s so much more.
A very simple carburetor, but the simpler the carburetor the more critical each part becomes. I hade lots of fun making carburetors pass a dynamometer smog test and still deliver proper performance !
A friend had a 1967 GMC 3/4 ton with a 327,but a rather rare Rochester 1 barrel carburetor/intake manifold setup. Unbelievably simple to rebuild,but just a smell test of the tailpipe made it clear that emissions were a major issue. I cannot imagine how to get such a thing to pass what you describe. Any desire to add details to the contortions it must have taken ?
@@paulmanson253 the smog standards changed with the passage of time. Emission numbers and relaxed for older vehicles, put it sounds like the 67 Gm you mentioned is getting am over abundance of fuel Float level set too high will do that. As will leaking jets and or jets that are larger than needed. Lots of people think more fuel makes more power, not true. Getting more air and fuel into the combustion chamber at the proper ratios makes more power. I would start with a complete diagnosis of all engine systems on that GM, a vacuum leak in one location will cause some cylinders to be lean and others to be overley ritch. This uneven spread across the cylinder makes it inposabil to adjust the idle mixture. Lean cylinder will drop out before you reach the proper mixture for the remaining cylinders. Vacuum leaks are common especially on older engines that have been repaired ( major work) I have found cylinder heads machined out of square causing leaks between the head and intake manifold. Another common problem is leaking vacuum break booster. Burning Oil will also add hydro carbon to the exhaust gases. Proper spark plugs with the correct gap receiving strong spark at the correct time is nessary also , too much advanced at idle increases emission. I hope you find this helpful .
@@thomaslemay8817 Oh crap,you just gave me a pretty concise list of,do the basics one step at a time before wandering through anything else. Yep. Should start with leakdown test and move up. Full pull. Dig out a very good flow chart from the old books and work from there. Thanks for that.
Most people hate carburetors but I love them. I think it’s really neat how they function and how much you can adjust one just about any way you can please.
Now I know the old girls going to purr like a kitten when you fire her up! Great video showing the rebuild. And someone with the sheer experience and knowledge of Senior, I reckon he could do it blindfolded! :)
I thought that carburetor looked great before you started doing anything to it. I'm rebuilding the engine on a Super MTA now. My first time doing anything with an engine of any sort. Anyway the inside of my carburetor was covered in rust. Every screw was a challenge. I had to drill out the drain plug and one of the small screws holding butterfly in. I feel cheated! :) I hope my carburetor looks as good when I'm done with it as yours did before you started! Anyway great timing on the video. I had left the carburetor alone for a while, and was just today staring at the two pieces of felt that came with my kit, trying to remember where exactly they went. Now I know!
when i rebuilt m y 44 M w/450lp head i did a before and after .dyno tests i got a M&W carb kit , 3hp increase it had better designed venturi barrel and main jet
I seen your locking screw driver when you were putting the throttle plate screws. They worked great for installing ignition points and condensers among other things.
Senior opening the idle screw 1-1/4 on this carb will make it lean at start up as opposed to the a little rich you were hoping for. I know it's close enough to start and it will be tweaked but opening the idle air 3/4 turn would give you the a tad rich for first start. I know I have to always ask my self what style carb is this I am adjusting.. air needle or a fuel needle. Very easy to "know" but get them backwards during assembly.
And some people praise carburetors for their simplicity. But WHEN all these tiny passages and the fixed in place jets get clogged, you're going to have a hard time cleaning them, and if you do get them clean, chances are that the jets are now too big. EFI has done wonders for easy starting, fuel economy, dependability and longevity.
Hello there I am working on my H carb and I can get 1 of the throttle shaft butterfly screws loose, someone previously stripped the crap out of it and a flat head won't grip it any longer ? The shaft is not loose in the bushings so I may have to leave it . I don't feel like trying to drill it and remove it with a tap. Any ideas or comments?
Hi, Squatch253, been following the build on the Super M from the start and have found it most interesting and relaxing, but two points I'm interested to know in the carb rebuild: If the two halves of the carb have to be good seal why not use gasket sealant anyway? I heard Snr say he normally didn't. Also, would it have been possible to mask and spray paint the two halves of the carb before assembly? David.
Not that it is that important on this application - Float level measurements/adjustments are typically done with the air horn gasket in place, unless the manual specifies otherwise. It is a lot more important on bigger motors that have small fuel bowls (like a Quadrajet), because it can have an effect on the overall fuel ratio. Just FYI.
I was looking all over for the float height thank you for the 1 5/16 inch height, thats what I set mine to. Pretty sure one was higher as well like yours was. My venturi wouldn't budge either so I left it. I cleaned the tank out and mounted my battery, I hope to have it running soon. Next is the 2 front tires and maybe over the winter I plan on stripping and painting some panels :) Thanks again for this video !
Your dad is like the Jay Leno of tractors! And I mean that as a huge compliment. His videos are always very informative and he has a very calm demeanor. He even has the denim shirt!
Appreciate senior in detailing what screws do what in the operation of the carburetor. Helps when one has rebuilt them before in explaining the procedure. Simple devices that can cause catastrophic headaches.
Wonderful watching Sr rebuild the carb. That will come in handy to anyone working on these carbs. Thanks for sharing.
Hard to explain how calming just watching Carb Rebuild video is....but it is. I'll take this over any political debate!
YOU GOT THAT RIGHT! 👍
Much more meaningful information imparted by Sr than by politics.
I bought an ultrasonic cleaner...really made a difference in my opinion. I also started running non ethanol fuel, which is a lttle easier on the carbs over time...all my opinion.
After watching this, as a novice mechanic I feel I could rebuild a carburetor. Thank you so much for the detail you guys put into your videos, very much appreciated. Cheers from Australia
Senior, you have given me the confidence to rebuild the carb on my 1948 John Deere B.Your video was a tutorial on how to do this. Thank you. You're the best! :-)
Just so you know, the Marvel Schebler DLTX carb on that type of Deere is a totally different animal. There are lots of little tips and tricks that will help you do a good job. They are very simple there are just lots of places for hidden dirt to make running issues.
@@weirddeere Oh boy I'm in deep trouble. :-(
@@ronaldkearn3322 here's a good video if I remember right, haven't watched it in a year or more ua-cam.com/video/PO_AM0o7l_A/v-deo.html
@@weirddeere Thanks.
@@ronaldkearn3322 If you tear into it and have problems look for videos or don't be afraid to ask me, I've been into a few. The key to running good is getting all the plugs out which requires good tight screwdrivers (I've custom ground junk one's for a tight fit) and it REALLY helps to heat them up with a hand help propane torch, let them cool off and they'll come right out.
Great job, Sr.! I have rebuilt dozens of these carbs as well as H's and many others. The big thing is to be very careful with the idle drip jet (the small tube jet). They can twist off very easily on removal and/or installation. Other than that, the load (high speed) mixture screw is adjustable, but you usually have to back off the packing nut a half turn or so prior to adjusting.
Glad you found this video. I have rebuilt a few carburetors and always like figuring them out, sure is nice watching senior rebuild it. 👍
It's amazing how stuff was designed back in the day. Good detail on the rebuilt 👍
Just rebuilt the carb on my 52 Briggs kit was more expensive than a new carb. Yes you do have to be very careful and it is technically a very simple job. Taking time and having finesse is very rewarding. When you’re done you have the same carb you’re grandfather took care of. It’s just a lump of medal at its core but it’s so much more.
My deepest thanks for allowing me to enjoy another fine classroom session
Good to see and hear from Sr it's been awhile hope he is doing well and staying safe.
A very simple carburetor, but the simpler the carburetor the more critical each part becomes. I hade lots of fun making carburetors pass a dynamometer smog test and still deliver proper performance !
A friend had a 1967 GMC 3/4 ton with a 327,but a rather rare Rochester 1 barrel carburetor/intake manifold setup. Unbelievably simple to rebuild,but just a smell test of the tailpipe made it clear that emissions were a major issue. I cannot imagine how to get such a thing to pass what you describe.
Any desire to add details to the contortions it must have taken ?
@@paulmanson253 the smog standards changed with the passage of time. Emission numbers and relaxed for older vehicles, put it sounds like the 67 Gm you mentioned is getting am over abundance of fuel
Float level set too high will do that. As will leaking jets and or jets that are larger than needed. Lots of people think more fuel makes more power, not true. Getting more air and fuel into the combustion chamber at the proper ratios makes more power. I would start with a complete diagnosis of all engine systems on that GM, a vacuum leak in one location will cause some cylinders to be lean and others to be overley ritch. This uneven spread across the cylinder makes it inposabil to adjust the idle mixture. Lean cylinder will drop out before you reach the proper mixture for the remaining cylinders. Vacuum leaks are common especially on older engines that have been repaired ( major work) I have found cylinder heads machined out of square causing leaks between the head and intake manifold. Another common problem is leaking vacuum break booster. Burning Oil will also add hydro carbon to the exhaust gases. Proper spark plugs with the correct gap receiving strong spark at the correct time is nessary also , too much advanced at idle increases emission. I hope you find this helpful .
@@thomaslemay8817 Oh crap,you just gave me a pretty concise list of,do the basics one step at a time before wandering through anything else. Yep. Should start with leakdown test and move up. Full pull. Dig out a very good flow chart from the old books and work from there. Thanks for that.
Great work, as usual! You guys are a great combo of history and “how things work”!
Most people hate carburetors but I love them. I think it’s really neat how they function and how much you can adjust one just about any way you can please.
Now I know the old girls going to purr like a kitten when you fire her up! Great video showing the rebuild. And someone with the sheer experience and knowledge of Senior, I reckon he could do it blindfolded! :)
Excellent video keep up the great videos 👍👍👍👍
Hadn’t seen much of Senior lately....Hoping all is well!! Informative video as always!!
I thought that carburetor looked great before you started doing anything to it. I'm rebuilding the engine on a Super MTA now. My first time doing anything with an engine of any sort. Anyway the inside of my carburetor was covered in rust. Every screw was a challenge. I had to drill out the drain plug and one of the small screws holding butterfly in. I feel cheated! :) I hope my carburetor looks as good when I'm done with it as yours did before you started! Anyway great timing on the video. I had left the carburetor alone for a while, and was just today staring at the two pieces of felt that came with my kit, trying to remember where exactly they went. Now I know!
Another good video Senior, and I bet it operates like new. Thanks.
when i rebuilt m y 44 M w/450lp head i did a before and after .dyno tests i got a M&W carb kit , 3hp increase it had better designed venturi barrel and main jet
If I ever do get the chance to own a farmall I'll know a whole lot about it now.
I really like how you both did videos in this series, I hope Sr. Keeps making videos over here.
I Agree!
Very good video. Thanks for the time you take to do them.
I’ve lost count of how many carburetors I’ve rebuilt. The absolute worst were those Carter Thermoquads…
What a difference between a carb built then and now. No wonder why this carb will last another 100 years.
I seen your locking screw driver when you were putting the throttle plate screws. They worked great for installing ignition points and condensers among other things.
yes, that is not the place to loose a screw. things really go down hill fast then.
Very good look at that carb Sr! Can't wait to hear it run.
Nicely done Sir.
Thank you for the video. Too many teensy parts for my clumsy fingers.
HEY, Thanks.! My addiction is abated for now.
Nice job sir
Senior opening the idle screw 1-1/4 on this carb will make it lean at start up as opposed to the a little rich you were hoping for. I know it's close enough to start and it will be tweaked but opening the idle air 3/4 turn would give you the a tad rich for first start.
I know I have to always ask my self what style carb is this I am adjusting.. air needle or a fuel needle. Very easy to "know" but get them backwards during assembly.
Great video..wish you would had left the part in where he adjusted the floats level..
Great rebuild
I love the vids Sr just great wish I could have had you as a teacher in school I would have made it
Wow, a pro. It's obvious Senior has done this before.
Have to wait until after the debate. Still tossed a thumbs up before I go.
Good call to include it!
Here is where Squatch jr. learned the trade!
Yep was wondering about this one .😊🍵🍵☕☕😁
makes it look easy
It looks like it's first cousin to a aircraft ma3 carb.
I was wondering what happened to that carburetor rebuild video sounds like senior had a senior moment better late than never
And some people praise carburetors for their simplicity. But WHEN all these tiny passages and the fixed in place jets get clogged, you're going to have a hard time cleaning them, and if you do get them clean, chances are that the jets are now too big.
EFI has done wonders for easy starting, fuel economy, dependability and longevity.
Hello there I am working on my H carb and I can get 1 of the throttle shaft butterfly screws loose, someone previously stripped the crap out of it and a flat head won't grip it any longer ? The shaft is not loose in the bushings so I may have to leave it . I don't feel like trying to drill it and remove it with a tap. Any ideas or comments?
Thank you that's what i figured@@squatch253
@@squatch253 I stuck the carb back on and cleaned the tank out she started right up. Sounds great too. thank you
More and more subs
Looking forward to first fire soon! Hope that knock is gone.
Hi, Squatch253, been following the build on the Super M from the start and have found it most interesting and relaxing, but two points I'm interested to know in the carb rebuild: If the two halves of the carb have to be good seal why not use gasket sealant anyway? I heard Snr say he normally didn't. Also, would it have been possible to mask and spray paint the two halves of the carb before assembly? David.
👍
Not that it is that important on this application - Float level measurements/adjustments are typically done with the air horn gasket in place, unless the manual specifies otherwise. It is a lot more important on bigger motors that have small fuel bowls (like a Quadrajet), because it can have an effect on the overall fuel ratio. Just FYI.
👍👍
Father an son team passin on techniques an information that's slowly disappearin from this fast pace world 👍👍
What year model Super M is this? My nephews have the same Super M one with a narrow front end that is a '53. Thanks for sharing.
Hi you two. Dad, you are REALLY good at this. I can't add anything useful to the comments below other than that. Cheers. BobUK.
Where do you get them screw diver that holds the screws
any suggestions on how to carefully remove my venturi ? it's stuck in there pretty good
Have you run it yet? Will the loader get painted as well?
The loader is not going back on it
It is obvious that this rebuild is not your first. How many have you done before?
G'day Squatch
Howdy Murphy.
@@scruffy6151 G'day Scruffy
G’day gentlemen 😁
@@TheGrumpyFarmer howdy Grumpy.
@@TheGrumpyFarmer G'day Grumpy
I think you would really like these www.26acremaker.com/ Instead of a flat file when you are dressing a machined surface flat.
First
How old are you?