Another big tip for battery life is getting a charger that charges individual cells and doesnt charge in pairs like some chargers. This way each battery is topped off, charging in pairs will only charge your cells to the max of the higher volt battery leaving the other slightly lower
Yeahhhh I’ number 500 subscriber and have that Tx as well. Real usefully detail differences explained. Keep it up my friend. I especially like his on-track responses and clear notes what not and what you can permit given the car specs. Everyone benefits and this man is no melodramatic character, he just knows his promoted stuff very nicely when preparing for us to shoot once more. So we don’t break down the expenses of buying a new car/set and/or Tx/Rx set like I had to do (them funny voices knock me out ofte presidential seat, while forgetting to lurk my soul and bones
Thank you for your support man! 500 is a big number for this channel! Thank you for the kind words, I truly appreciate the support. Stay safe & have a good day!
Honesty get some 750s, they are worth it, I didn’t not think they would make any difference but they do. The video does not do these batteries justice, the response difference is much more pronounced in person.
Thank you very much I also have some doubts about the batteries, I will try to see the video again and if I get one like that I will tell you about my experience, take care friend, a hug !!
I normally use the Kyosho Speedhouse 800HV batteries on track and even so they are noticably punchier than my Orion 900HVs for sure. The 800HVs are more than enough to last me an entire race at the club so I just use those. For longer races I think there are times where you do want the extra capacity, especially a track where you're on power most of the time.
@@BMR3 By ruptured do you mean it was leaking fluid? I had 1 or 2 from Kyosho that leaked, but after cleaning the batteries they are able to be used at full capacity without any issues at all and no longer leaked again :O
Auranapse oh my, you sir are a mad man! Lol I was to scared by the leaking battery to reuse it. I cleaned it off & have it sitting in a safe container. Yeah when I said ruptured I mean it leaked nasty white acid all over the terminals in my original 020s stock chassis.
@@BMR3 after cleaning I just put it in the charger briefly as I had one with voltage and internal resistance readings and it was normal so I just went with it. They ended up working fine till today. At least a couple of months already. Do you have a picture of how bad the acid leak is? Mine was minor enough that I could clean or sand it off.
For home use I use eneloop pro 900's, for racing I have Team Orion 1.25v 750SHO's, known to be "the best" "normal" AAA for mini-z's as they have an extra .05v per cell compared to other AAA's, similar to what those PN batteries do.
@@tlfbshti364 I don't know much about charging or LIHV, but the Team Orion and these PN batteries are the only rechargeable AAA's ive seen that are rated as 1.25v instead of just 1.2v, defo makes a difference with the Team Orions, never used these PN ones.
Man I really want to get some enloops but Kenon Hobby only had PN when I ordered. From all the research I have done, enloops out perform every other brand.
@@BMR3 Nah that can't be right, I have eneloop pro 900's and team orion 750's and the orion 750's definitely have more punch up front (your PN's should too) which is probably down to the extra .05v per cell the Orions have over the eneloops. I even have some standard 800mah energizer rechargeables which are almost exactly the same as my eneloop pro's. I'd take my eneloops over any other brand that only does 1.2v, but i'd take the Orions or PN's over the eneloops for the extra .05v per cell.
Hello, for the same price I can get the speedhouse batteries with the mini z USB charger or the 45min Duracell fast charger. The chargers and 8 batteries cost me about 50 euros and I want to use them for my AWD and not competitively, I want them to give it power and usage time, which one would you recommend I buy? thanks
What’s the solution if you want extended runtime with minimal changes if you don’t care as much about performance? Like if I want my young kids to run at a more manageable to them speed for a long time are there battery/gearing combos that are available?
What is your opinion on Duracell rechargeable batteries? It’s just more convenient for me to walk over to my store than driving out or ordering online for batteries
They will work perfectly, you won’t notice a difference unless your clocking lap times. But if ur just bashing around the house the Duracells will work great, I’m all about convenience
Holy crap, what a difference! I did not expect that at all, as the rule actually works in reverse with lipos, which I'm more used to (more mah in the same configuration will give better punch). How would you compare the pn 750s to the eneloop 800s your were using? I have eneloop right now but need to pick up more cells and dont know which to get! Great vid as always! I would also love to see a li-ion vs. life. vs nimh test/comparison!
Hey man, hope your doing good & staying safe! I have Kyosho Speedhouse 800s, not enloops, but I do plan on getting some enloops here in the near future. From what I have heard, the 800s have similar punch to the 750s, but I cant confirm since one of my cells ruptured a few months back. If you are in the market for batteries, I highly recommend picking up a couple sets of the 750s & test them out. They have great punch & still a solid run time. I would love to pick up some lithium battery variants in the future and compare them all :) A lot of topics to get to & I prefer to tackle stuff one at a time so i stay focused lol
Hello, thank you for the support! Yep, typically the lower the Mah rating the more power it will provide with NiHM batteries. 750 high discharge batteries will always be faster then 900s but they don’t last as long.
@@BMR3 Thanks lots for the reply! Though I have difficulty understanding why that is the case. Anyway I just bought a used MA-020S as the 030 is not available yet and won't be for months. This one is 2 years old and still running the stock motor. I was looking at the PN brushed motors and wonder how many T would you recommend? I run my AWD for drifting at home and firm touring (less grippy) tyres outside on crappy surfaces. i don't ever run mine on RCP track haha. Thanks for any advice BMR. Thanks appreciate your work.
Yoo BMR i love the test against the track wall any mini z crash test dummies?😂, Recently got myself one of those mini z crawlers well and truly fell into the mini z hole! Lil video on my channel will add a proper crawling session soon!
Lol I should have set up a slow motion camera & used lego people as my crash dummies 😹 Nice crawler, the 4Runner looks great. You should throw some tape on the tires and drift it 😹😹
@@BMR3 great minds think alike i didnt use tape but i did use alot of washing up liquid😂( thought of squashing ds racing tyres on at first) but whats funnier is i done that before crawling🤷♂️😂😂, Goes so well with the collection! But not the wallet🤭 usual mini z ayy haha!
Batteries won’t fry the board unless your trying to run a Lipo. Any of the rechargeable will do you just fine, typically I use the 900mah since they give longer run time.
They will work just fine, honestly any AAA battery will work great. The brand & battery type doesn’t really matter unless your racing & turning lap times where milliseconds count.
Here you go, the batteries in stock: www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-High-Power-750mah-Ni-MH-Rechargeable-AAA-Battery-4pcs_p_45930.html This is the charger I’m currently using, but it’s out of stock: www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-Speed-House-USB-Charger-Ni-Mh-AA-AAA_p_46191.html
BMR 3 THANKS MAN I GOT REGULAR ENERGIZER ULTIMATE LITHIUM BATTERIES FOR KNOW. IM NEW TO THESES MINI Z IM NOT GOING TO RACE AT A TRACK . JUST FOR FUN DRIVE AROUND MY DRIVEWAY OR PAVED STREET.
@@BMR3 what is a good battery charger alternate? My mini is shipping monday so I'm watching all your videos to see what I need before it comes in. I got the batterys pn 750 and a foam car block for working on it. The aluminum motor covers are sold out. I'm going to get a heat sink if I can find one.
@@killagorilaaa5682 Thank you, I love the C9 & want to pick a silver body as well. No worries on the battery box, i have a solution i will elaborate on in next weeks video ;)
For a casual driver i would recommend lipo AAA's, dont have to be careful with charging and they stay in storage for longer. more power, longer runtimes and lighter. i have been seeing cells die randomly and the lipos are just so much cheaper
Really? That’s crazy! I would have thought lipos are more volatile & prone to being damaged from neglect or poor charging habits. I’m still new to batteries so I need to do some more research on lipos, sounds like I need to give them another try!
@@BMR3 nicads/nimhis tend to develop a memory after time and have annoying failure cases. Lipo flat cells are dangerous if damaged but the AAA variants are metal clad/shielded and are similar to nimhis if you dont pierce them modern charges are very safe compared to years prior and the lipos can be charged in 15 minutes if need be (4C) though i typically charge them in 30 mins (2C) and have 8 on hand lipos dont get anywhere near as hot as well which is important as it gets hot down here in summer in the AU and overheating is a real concern
I'm sure your 750s are stronger than 900s but mines is actually reverse. I've had the 750s a week or 2 longer so they should have cycled by now. The 900s make my car so fast I constantly get better lap times and its so much faster. Idk just my experience
it could be the & 750s have a little to much punch & the car is just more settled, stable & controllable with the 900s. More power is not always a good thing. Thanks for the comment, good food for thought. Have a great day man!
Curious.....are the storage containers to put your track in when not in use? Looking for options for when my wife says the track needs to be put away. My son and I have it set up in the living room.
Hello, my track is packed away in 4 storage containers, dimensions: 44” x 20” x 6 3/8”. 74qt or 70L size These containers work great, I can slide all 4 behind my couch when I’m done with the track so it’s out of sight. Works so well I think the wife already forgot we have a track 😂 I will try to release a video next week talking about my storage solution. Hope this helps, have a good one man!
@@BMR3 I understand for sure, but would be cool to see how you put it away so it does not get damaged. I have read that some people complain about how it get marked up when they put it away, And it looks like you are pretty particular on how things are kept.
Yes sir, I actually managed to leave marks on my Matt’s the first time I stored them :( that’s why I have the current set up I have & the track is spread across 4 containers so nothing is crammed so squished. The RCP is incredibly soft & you have to be careful when stacking the track pieces or else’s the plastic connectors will leave marks. You also have to make sure the tiles are supported, I made the mistake of stacking them carelessly & I ended up bowing about half the tiles. Luckily I realized the next morning so I was able to reverse the damage but still... you have to be very careful if you want them to stay pristine, flat & consistent for racing.
Unfortunately I do not have any lipo batteries, but I do plan on getting some soon. I will keep that video in mind ;) I know garage RC UK does use lithium if you want to check out his videos
@@BMR3 I keep calling them lipos but I think they are lithium 3.7v x2 . I use the orion 750s aswell good cells. Is there big difference in speed evo awd vs evo rwd?
Garage RC evo RWD is noticeably faster then my AWD, but then again I don’t have proper grip tires to compare. Once I get grip tires on my 030Evo, they should be very comparable in speed, but the AWD should have more torque.
@@knogface hahaha no way man, the golden age is now. Just wait until you get into the deeper end with brands like GL Racing & RC Atomic. Trust me, mini-z is the very tip of the iceberg.
Is it okay to leave batteries in the mini z when you're not using it or should you take the batteries out? Cause it can be a pain sometimes putting them in and out.
Don’t leave the batteries in the car, even if it’s off the batteries will still discharge a tiny bit. Once they get drained fully the can be at risk of rupturing/venting corrosive acid. It’s best to take them out when your done, but if you forget overnight it won’t be an issue. Longer then that is a bad idea
Calisthenics scinehtsilac happy to help, & I know from first hand experience. I left a pack of batteries in my car & one of the cells leaked acid all over my terminals. I was able to clean it up, but still, best to be avoided if possible. I normally put a thin piece of ribbon behind my batteries when I install them. That way I can tug on the ribbon, & the batteries pop out. I hadn’t thought to make a video about it, but now I will. Should be out around the weekend if you need a visual aid. Have a good day man!
None of the information in this video makes any sense, and is wrong. IR (Internal resistance) and C (current) rating is what dictates “punch”. Most times, IR goes down, as MaH (Ah/MwH) goes up, not the other way around. If you have two lipo batteries, both are 1.5 amps, both have 25c rating. But one is an 800MaH and the other is 500Mah … not only will the 800’s last longer,but they should also have more zip, because their IR should be lower. Now granted, my experience is with lipos, but this should be true accords the board. Ohms law man.
Hey Anthony, these are Ni-HM battery’s not Lipo so they are a bit different. Also these battery’s don’t advertise the c rating so that could be a factor, but no way to tell going of the labels. In this video I was just providing my experience & also passing along some information I gathered from the racing scene.
@@BMR3 fair. In all honesty pretty much all of my experience is in lipo’s, and no matter how sure I am of something, I can always be wrong. This is a very interesting subject and fully intend on dweebing out! May I ask, why isn’t everyone using lipo’s? I don’t see any disadvantages to using lipos other than maybe cost?
@@BMR3 are you making sure, that when you test different batteries, with different MaH ratings … that you are making sure that the voltage is the same? Some of these AAA batteries have 1.2v while others 1.5. So if you tested a 800 1.2v vs a 500 1.5v … then of course the 1.5v will feel as though it has more punch.
@@anthonyt2955 yep the battery I tested we’re all 1.5v, all the mini-z specific brands are at 1.5v for max punch. I know what you mean tho, it seems backwards but as I said, this is just my experience & what I have gathered from other trusted sources(racers). I’m by NO means an expert & could be way off the mark technically, but I can’t scientifically prove anything at the moment. It’s all just anecdotal evidence. To your point on Lipos, some people run them but only in the open/modified racing classes. Mini-z originally came out about 25 years ago & AAA battery’s we’re a great option for the time & Kyosho has never changed that. The chassis are designed to use AAA for ease of access. You can pop any simple AAA battery in the chassis & off you go. Lipos on the other hand require much more attention & can be dangerous if not maintained/charged properly. 99% of the population doesn’t really understand what a Lipo is or have the extra equipment to charge & maintain, where as AAA can be purchased at the corner store & you don’t have to worry about firey explosions. Worst case with a AAA you have minor battery acid leaking that can simply clean up but has no real risk.
Another big tip for battery life is getting a charger that charges individual cells and doesnt charge in pairs like some chargers. This way each battery is topped off, charging in pairs will only charge your cells to the max of the higher volt battery leaving the other slightly lower
ISDT N8 Battery Charger for AA&AAA Is a great one!
Yeahhhh I’ number 500 subscriber and have that Tx as well. Real usefully detail differences explained. Keep it up my friend.
I especially like his on-track responses and clear notes what not and what you can permit given the car specs. Everyone benefits and this man is no melodramatic character, he just knows his promoted stuff very nicely when preparing for us to shoot once more. So we don’t break down the expenses of buying a new car/set and/or Tx/Rx set like I had to do (them funny voices knock me out ofte presidential seat, while forgetting to lurk my soul and bones
Thank you for your support man! 500 is a big number for this channel! Thank you for the kind words, I truly appreciate the support.
Stay safe & have a good day!
750 sounds like the car spools up really quickly. I should get some of that to compare with my cheapo Ikea stuff.
Honesty get some 750s, they are worth it, I didn’t not think they would make any difference but they do.
The video does not do these batteries justice, the response difference is much more pronounced in person.
Thank you very much I also have some doubts about the batteries, I will try to see the video again and if I get one like that I will tell you about my experience, take care friend, a hug !!
Awesome! Yes please let me know how your experience with batteries goes!
Stay safe & a hug my friend!
I normally use the Kyosho Speedhouse 800HV batteries on track and even so they are noticably punchier than my Orion 900HVs for sure.
The 800HVs are more than enough to last me an entire race at the club so I just use those. For longer races I think there are times where you do want the extra capacity, especially a track where you're on power most of the time.
Speedhouse 800s were good batteries for me until one of them ruptured. Im tempted to pick up another pack of them to test against the 750s
@@BMR3 By ruptured do you mean it was leaking fluid? I had 1 or 2 from Kyosho that leaked, but after cleaning the batteries they are able to be used at full capacity without any issues at all and no longer leaked again :O
Auranapse oh my, you sir are a mad man! Lol I was to scared by the leaking battery to reuse it. I cleaned it off & have it sitting in a safe container.
Yeah when I said ruptured I mean it leaked nasty white acid all over the terminals in my original 020s stock chassis.
@@BMR3 after cleaning I just put it in the charger briefly as I had one with voltage and internal resistance readings and it was normal so I just went with it. They ended up working fine till today. At least a couple of months already.
Do you have a picture of how bad the acid leak is? Mine was minor enough that I could clean or sand it off.
For home use I use eneloop pro 900's, for racing I have Team Orion 1.25v 750SHO's, known to be "the best" "normal" AAA for mini-z's as they have an extra .05v per cell compared to other AAA's, similar to what those PN batteries do.
so you're saying these PN cells are basically like LIHV cells, which can take a slightly higher voltage at full charge? Interesting...
@@tlfbshti364 I don't know much about charging or LIHV, but the Team Orion and these PN batteries are the only rechargeable AAA's ive seen that are rated as 1.25v instead of just 1.2v, defo makes a difference with the Team Orions, never used these PN ones.
Man I really want to get some enloops but Kenon Hobby only had PN when I ordered.
From all the research I have done, enloops out perform every other brand.
@@BMR3 Nah that can't be right, I have eneloop pro 900's and team orion 750's and the orion 750's definitely have more punch up front (your PN's should too) which is probably down to the extra .05v per cell the Orions have over the eneloops. I even have some standard 800mah energizer rechargeables which are almost exactly the same as my eneloop pro's. I'd take my eneloops over any other brand that only does 1.2v, but i'd take the Orions or PN's over the eneloops for the extra .05v per cell.
Can you charge a Orion or a pn battery on a enelope charger at 1.25v or will it only be 1.2v
How long is the run time on the 900 and 750?
Hello, for the same price I can get the speedhouse batteries with the mini z USB charger or the 45min Duracell fast charger.
The chargers and 8 batteries cost me about 50 euros and I want to use them for my AWD and not competitively, I want them to give it power and usage time, which one would you recommend I buy?
thanks
@@amadeocastrolago5799 get what is cheapest, battery selection only matters if you are timing laps/racing.
What’s the solution if you want extended runtime with minimal changes if you don’t care as much about performance? Like if I want my young kids to run at a more manageable to them speed for a long time are there battery/gearing combos that are available?
What is your opinion on Duracell rechargeable batteries? It’s just more convenient for me to walk over to my store than driving out or ordering online for batteries
They will work perfectly, you won’t notice a difference unless your clocking lap times. But if ur just bashing around the house the Duracells will work great, I’m all about convenience
@@BMR3 thanks!
Holy crap, what a difference! I did not expect that at all, as the rule actually works in reverse with lipos, which I'm more used to (more mah in the same configuration will give better punch). How would you compare the pn 750s to the eneloop 800s your were using? I have eneloop right now but need to pick up more cells and dont know which to get! Great vid as always! I would also love to see a li-ion vs. life. vs nimh test/comparison!
Hey man, hope your doing good & staying safe!
I have Kyosho Speedhouse 800s, not enloops, but I do plan on getting some enloops here in the near future. From what I have heard, the 800s have similar punch to the 750s, but I cant confirm since one of my cells ruptured a few months back.
If you are in the market for batteries, I highly recommend picking up a couple sets of the 750s & test them out. They have great punch & still a solid run time.
I would love to pick up some lithium battery variants in the future and compare them all :) A lot of topics to get to & I prefer to tackle stuff one at a time so i stay focused lol
thanks for the video. do 750s always have better performance than 900s? or just specifically these two models from PN racing?
Hello, thank you for the support!
Yep, typically the lower the Mah rating the more power it will provide with NiHM batteries.
750 high discharge batteries will always be faster then 900s but they don’t last as long.
@@BMR3 Thanks lots for the reply! Though I have difficulty understanding why that is the case.
Anyway I just bought a used MA-020S as the 030 is not available yet and won't be for months. This one is 2 years old and still running the stock motor. I was looking at the PN brushed motors and wonder how many T would you recommend? I run my AWD for drifting at home and firm touring (less grippy) tyres outside on crappy surfaces. i don't ever run mine on RCP track haha.
Thanks for any advice BMR. Thanks appreciate your work.
Yoo BMR i love the test against the track wall any mini z crash test dummies?😂,
Recently got myself one of those mini z crawlers well and truly fell into the mini z hole! Lil video on my channel will add a proper crawling session soon!
Lol I should have set up a slow motion camera & used lego people as my crash dummies 😹
Nice crawler, the 4Runner looks great. You should throw some tape on the tires and drift it 😹😹
@@BMR3 great minds think alike i didnt use tape but i did use alot of washing up liquid😂( thought of squashing ds racing tyres on at first) but whats funnier is i done that before crawling🤷♂️😂😂,
Goes so well with the collection! But not the wallet🤭 usual mini z ayy haha!
What would you recommend for a stock car MA020? Heard you can fry the chip, hence just wanted some more info since you are clued up!
Batteries won’t fry the board unless your trying to run a Lipo.
Any of the rechargeable will do you just fine, typically I use the 900mah since they give longer run time.
@@BMR3 ahh ok. Thank you so much! I got some 900mah on order.
@@JA-uz7se happy to help brother!
What is the results using the Amazon AAA rechargeable lithium ion 1.5v batteries?
They will work just fine, honestly any AAA battery will work great. The brand & battery type doesn’t really matter unless your racing & turning lap times where milliseconds count.
SO I JUST GOT THAT SAME CAR THE SUBAR. WHERE CAN I GET THE 750 batteries and charger. I’m new to the mini z.
Here you go, the batteries in stock: www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-High-Power-750mah-Ni-MH-Rechargeable-AAA-Battery-4pcs_p_45930.html
This is the charger I’m currently using, but it’s out of stock: www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-Speed-House-USB-Charger-Ni-Mh-AA-AAA_p_46191.html
BMR 3 THANKS MAN I GOT REGULAR ENERGIZER ULTIMATE LITHIUM BATTERIES FOR KNOW. IM NEW TO THESES MINI Z IM NOT GOING TO RACE AT A TRACK . JUST FOR FUN DRIVE AROUND MY DRIVEWAY OR PAVED STREET.
Also where can I get. A good front bumper and good battles covers
@@BMR3 what is a good battery charger alternate? My mini is shipping monday so I'm watching all your videos to see what I need before it comes in. I got the batterys pn 750 and a foam car block for working on it. The aluminum motor covers are sold out. I'm going to get a heat sink if I can find one.
Good looking car , I have the silver Mercedes & run Orion 900
Also pn racing carries a battery box just like the car box
@@killagorilaaa5682 Thank you, I love the C9 & want to pick a silver body as well.
No worries on the battery box, i have a solution i will elaborate on in next weeks video ;)
For a casual driver i would recommend lipo AAA's, dont have to be careful with charging and they stay in storage for longer. more power, longer runtimes and lighter. i have been seeing cells die randomly and the lipos are just so much cheaper
Really? That’s crazy! I would have thought lipos are more volatile & prone to being damaged from neglect or poor charging habits.
I’m still new to batteries so I need to do some more research on lipos, sounds like I need to give them another try!
@@BMR3 nicads/nimhis tend to develop a memory after time and have annoying failure cases. Lipo flat cells are dangerous if damaged but the AAA variants are metal clad/shielded and are similar to nimhis if you dont pierce them
modern charges are very safe compared to years prior and the lipos can be charged in 15 minutes if need be (4C) though i typically charge them in 30 mins (2C) and have 8 on hand
lipos dont get anywhere near as hot as well which is important as it gets hot down here in summer in the AU and overheating is a real concern
I'm sure your 750s are stronger than 900s but mines is actually reverse. I've had the 750s a week or 2 longer so they should have cycled by now. The 900s make my car so fast I constantly get better lap times and its so much faster. Idk just my experience
it could be the & 750s have a little to much punch & the car is just more settled, stable & controllable with the 900s. More power is not always a good thing.
Thanks for the comment, good food for thought. Have a great day man!
Can u use regular batteries like some energizer batteries or no
Yes it will work no problems, but batteries get expensive so it’s good to have a set of rechargeables
Curious.....are the storage containers to put your track in when not in use? Looking for options for when my wife says the track needs to be put away. My son and I have it set up in the living room.
Hello, my track is packed away in 4 storage containers, dimensions: 44” x 20” x 6 3/8”. 74qt or 70L size
These containers work great, I can slide all 4 behind my couch when I’m done with the track so it’s out of sight. Works so well I think the wife already forgot we have a track 😂
I will try to release a video next week talking about my storage solution.
Hope this helps, have a good one man!
BMR 3 thank you for the info. Sounds like you have it all dialed in.
I’m pretty happy with my set up, I have been being lazy lately but I will try to film a video on my storage solution.
@@BMR3 I understand for sure, but would be cool to see how you put it away so it does not get damaged. I have read that some people complain about how it get marked up when they put it away, And it looks like you are pretty particular on how things are kept.
Yes sir, I actually managed to leave marks on my Matt’s the first time I stored them :( that’s why I have the current set up I have & the track is spread across 4 containers so nothing is crammed so squished.
The RCP is incredibly soft & you have to be careful when stacking the track pieces or else’s the plastic connectors will leave marks. You also have to make sure the tiles are supported, I made the mistake of stacking them carelessly & I ended up bowing about half the tiles. Luckily I realized the next morning so I was able to reverse the damage but still... you have to be very careful if you want them to stay pristine, flat & consistent for racing.
What type of batteries are recommended for the transmitter? Thanks
I use standard disposable batteries, but you can use rechargeable if you prefer.
I know you run lithium too. Do a video on those: lilo vs life.
Unfortunately I do not have any lipo batteries, but I do plan on getting some soon. I will keep that video in mind ;)
I know garage RC UK does use lithium if you want to check out his videos
@@BMR3 I keep calling them lipos but I think they are lithium 3.7v x2 . I use the orion 750s aswell good cells. Is there big difference in speed evo awd vs evo rwd?
Garage RC evo RWD is noticeably faster then my AWD, but then again I don’t have proper grip tires to compare.
Once I get grip tires on my 030Evo, they should be very comparable in speed, but the AWD should have more torque.
Does it matter the mah rate you charge your AAA at?
Can I use disposable AAA batteries until I can buy some good rechargeable? Just curious
Yep & they will work just fine. The only issue is the disposable batteries get very expensive over time.
@@BMR3 thanks so much!
@@knogface happy to help! Good luck with your build
@@BMR3 thanks, gotta admit it's RTR... But I'll upgrade as I go. I missed out on the golden age of build your own RC I think haha
@@knogface hahaha no way man, the golden age is now. Just wait until you get into the deeper end with brands like GL Racing & RC Atomic.
Trust me, mini-z is the very tip of the iceberg.
Is it okay to leave batteries in the mini z when you're not using it or should you take the batteries out?
Cause it can be a pain sometimes putting them in and out.
Don’t leave the batteries in the car, even if it’s off the batteries will still discharge a tiny bit. Once they get drained fully the can be at risk of rupturing/venting corrosive acid.
It’s best to take them out when your done, but if you forget overnight it won’t be an issue. Longer then that is a bad idea
@@BMR3 Alright thank you man, I wasn't sure so I would just take them out in case.
Calisthenics scinehtsilac happy to help, & I know from first hand experience. I left a pack of batteries in my car & one of the cells leaked acid all over my terminals. I was able to clean it up, but still, best to be avoided if possible.
I normally put a thin piece of ribbon behind my batteries when I install them. That way I can tug on the ribbon, & the batteries pop out. I hadn’t thought to make a video about it, but now I will. Should be out around the weekend if you need a visual aid.
Have a good day man!
hi BMR 3 i follow your video and i see you controller can you plz tell me how much did you pay because i cant find it on the web
$220 for the KT-432pt
Hi witch charger do you have?
It’s the Speedhouse one from Kyosho & I don’t recommend it lol
have you never used the Ni-Zn batteries on Mini Z? is it possible?
What battery are those????
AAA ni-hm rechargeable
If anyone knows how does enelope pros compare to 750s and could you charge 750s at 1.25v on a enelope charger
Not sure about the voltage charging but enloops are great batteries & I see A LOT of guys using them on the Facebook groups.
Cool thank you if you do have the chance to find out could you inform me
Panasonic eneloop pro 950 here 🙋
I want to get some Enloops but Kenon Hobby only carries PN. next order will be some enloops and possibly some lithium variants.
Gonna get pn 750 too 😆
None of the information in this video makes any sense, and is wrong.
IR (Internal resistance) and C (current) rating is what dictates “punch”. Most times, IR goes down, as MaH (Ah/MwH) goes up, not the other way around.
If you have two lipo batteries, both are 1.5 amps, both have 25c rating. But one is an 800MaH and the other is 500Mah … not only will the 800’s last longer,but they should also have more zip, because their IR should be lower.
Now granted, my experience is with lipos, but this should be true accords the board.
Ohms law man.
Hey Anthony, these are Ni-HM battery’s not Lipo so they are a bit different. Also these battery’s don’t advertise the c rating so that could be a factor, but no way to tell going of the labels.
In this video I was just providing my experience & also passing along some information I gathered from the racing scene.
@@BMR3 fair. In all honesty pretty much all of my experience is in lipo’s, and no matter how sure I am of something, I can always be wrong. This is a very interesting subject and fully intend on dweebing out!
May I ask, why isn’t everyone using lipo’s? I don’t see any disadvantages to using lipos other than maybe cost?
@@BMR3 are you making sure, that when you test different batteries, with different MaH ratings … that you are making sure that the voltage is the same? Some of these AAA batteries have 1.2v while others 1.5.
So if you tested a 800 1.2v vs a 500 1.5v … then of course the 1.5v will feel as though it has more punch.
@@anthonyt2955 yep the battery I tested we’re all 1.5v, all the mini-z specific brands are at 1.5v for max punch. I know what you mean tho, it seems backwards but as I said, this is just my experience & what I have gathered from other trusted sources(racers). I’m by NO means an expert & could be way off the mark technically, but I can’t scientifically prove anything at the moment. It’s all just anecdotal evidence.
To your point on Lipos, some people run them but only in the open/modified racing classes. Mini-z originally came out about 25 years ago & AAA battery’s we’re a great option for the time & Kyosho has never changed that. The chassis are designed to use AAA for ease of access. You can pop any simple AAA battery in the chassis & off you go.
Lipos on the other hand require much more attention & can be dangerous if not maintained/charged properly. 99% of the population doesn’t really understand what a Lipo is or have the extra equipment to charge & maintain, where as AAA can be purchased at the corner store & you don’t have to worry about firey explosions. Worst case with a AAA you have minor battery acid leaking that can simply clean up but has no real risk.