Hi there! I'm an engineer, just wanted to chime in on the aerodynamic drag topic, you can basically ignore that as a factor in Mini z Racing, you aren't going to do anything to have a meaningful change in driving performance at the speeds these are capable of. Just as an example, if you took a car with one of these racing bodies and raced it against another that magically had zero drag, it will contribute to about 2% less air resistance than your standard mini z if your speeds are under 15mph and about 4% at 30mph. Remember that we are talking about the total delta of full air resistance vs none, you are probably looking at a total difference of under 20% for all these modern racing bodies. Considering that your rolling resistance is probably over 90% of your total resistance at these speeds, you can quickly see how aero just doesn't matter with this, you would be chasing less than a tenth of a percent of change in your top speed.
The Jomurema body is the most popular not because it does everything right, and is the fastest... but because there are such few flaws with it in how it races. Short overhangs make it reactive, equal overhang front and rear with a mid cab design make it very neutral in and off the corners. And probably the biggest reason is because it is one of the most forgiving bodies in collisions with other cars and the barriers. For advanced body tuners, the Jomurema doesnt really need any modifications to perform close to its maximum level. Where other bodies may need some shaving of the inside for wheel clearance, or reinforcement around the front end for durability. Jomurema can also show the driver easily what changes in setup do with the car because it is so neutral in balance. The 2012 Audi R8 would be categorized in a similar place to the Jomurema for its handling attributes. Audi makes slightly more traction, but slightly less forgiving. McLaren 12C is one of my favorite hard bodies, I like the cab forward design. However, it is much less forgiving than the Jomurema in any collision. It is not the worst out there in that regard. With the 12C, I feel that I can drive a little harder into the corners with more stability due to the longer front overhang, and have a better feel on the front traction due to the more forward biased aero design. For simple terminology, I tend to phrase it this way. As the front overhang increases compared to the rear, the car maintains momentum into the corners, and carves the corner with a smoother radius rather than pivot in the corner. Similar to using a long ski compared to a short ski. The long tail McLaren F1 GTR can be a good body in very low traction conditions with a little modification to the rear end to lower mass and increase airflow under the wing. It is a bit polarizing in handling, in that it is initially resistant to rotation, and then once rotation is initiated, it wants to continue that rotation even after the wheels have straightened out. Due to the long front and rear overhang, and good aero properties it makes it a good option only for very low traction such as carpet with rubber tires. When I raced on carpet for a while about 10 years ago, this was one of the fastest bodies. Driving accuracy is lower, as you stated, but it makes good traction in those conditions. In higher traction, the body does suffer on anything other than very high speed circuits with high speed corners. Before the Jomurema body, the Mosler MT900S held its place as a very forgiving body, that could pretty much do it all. It made excellent traction, and had a great aero design for faster classes. Its one caveat was really the mass for stock classes, and slightly high CG in comparison to some of the really low slung bodies. I do plan to revisit this body soon, its on my list!
Kyosho purist here, just as much as i'm a Lego purist (no china blocks please). Part of the fun of the Kyosho is the DEATILING and actually realizing the experience of these great race cars. I have not bought a Jomurema. I'm happy with my Kyosho experience, my Mercedes experience, my Audi experience, my Mclaren experience and so forth...IF a REAL Jomurema was manufactured, then yes i would buy the body.
Isn’t the Mazda body a 102MM ?? Also can u make a 102MM into a 98 car? Bought my first MiniZ a Toyota GT LM but now seeing its not 98 mm can I still use this car or it can’t be made into a 98Mm that will be able to race in stock/ box stock ?
On your main youtube channel at the top, the banner, I see a McLaren which I have the same one. Would you be willing to share what offset of rims with tires you have on it? They look like PN Racing Mini-Z 2WD Machine Cut 10 Spoke but I am not sure if they are F1, F2, F3 and R1, R2, R3 AND Love your videos, learning a ton and practicing even more. TIA Keep up the great videos!
Thank you for the videos! I am really enjoying learning from all of your hard work. Jomurema is so ugly and generic that it is a deal breaker for me. Nice looking scale race cars is one of the whole points of Mini Z for me. Unfortunately my favorite race body is the now extinct Ferrari 599. I should test some bodies and see how it affects lap times. I've never done that with keeping all other set-up the same.
Lol, the adjustments do make a difference…but one twitch of the steering or throttle makes it all for nothing…we are talking about tenth’s of a second on most of the mods…perfect driving, sure they make a difference, but not many people are perfect
![How to Make Mini z box Stock FAST [Basic] Part 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/w90HjsJnjlk/mqdefault.jpg)
@2:40 Jomurema
@6:54 Enzo
@9:04 McLaren 12c
@12:18 McLaren f1 gtr
@12:58 Trp Mosler
Hi there! I'm an engineer, just wanted to chime in on the aerodynamic drag topic, you can basically ignore that as a factor in Mini z Racing, you aren't going to do anything to have a meaningful change in driving performance at the speeds these are capable of. Just as an example, if you took a car with one of these racing bodies and raced it against another that magically had zero drag, it will contribute to about 2% less air resistance than your standard mini z if your speeds are under 15mph and about 4% at 30mph. Remember that we are talking about the total delta of full air resistance vs none, you are probably looking at a total difference of under 20% for all these modern racing bodies. Considering that your rolling resistance is probably over 90% of your total resistance at these speeds, you can quickly see how aero just doesn't matter with this, you would be chasing less than a tenth of a percent of change in your top speed.
The Jomurema body is the most popular not because it does everything right, and is the fastest... but because there are such few flaws with it in how it races. Short overhangs make it reactive, equal overhang front and rear with a mid cab design make it very neutral in and off the corners. And probably the biggest reason is because it is one of the most forgiving bodies in collisions with other cars and the barriers. For advanced body tuners, the Jomurema doesnt really need any modifications to perform close to its maximum level. Where other bodies may need some shaving of the inside for wheel clearance, or reinforcement around the front end for durability. Jomurema can also show the driver easily what changes in setup do with the car because it is so neutral in balance. The 2012 Audi R8 would be categorized in a similar place to the Jomurema for its handling attributes. Audi makes slightly more traction, but slightly less forgiving.
McLaren 12C is one of my favorite hard bodies, I like the cab forward design. However, it is much less forgiving than the Jomurema in any collision. It is not the worst out there in that regard. With the 12C, I feel that I can drive a little harder into the corners with more stability due to the longer front overhang, and have a better feel on the front traction due to the more forward biased aero design.
For simple terminology, I tend to phrase it this way. As the front overhang increases compared to the rear, the car maintains momentum into the corners, and carves the corner with a smoother radius rather than pivot in the corner. Similar to using a long ski compared to a short ski.
The long tail McLaren F1 GTR can be a good body in very low traction conditions with a little modification to the rear end to lower mass and increase airflow under the wing. It is a bit polarizing in handling, in that it is initially resistant to rotation, and then once rotation is initiated, it wants to continue that rotation even after the wheels have straightened out. Due to the long front and rear overhang, and good aero properties it makes it a good option only for very low traction such as carpet with rubber tires. When I raced on carpet for a while about 10 years ago, this was one of the fastest bodies. Driving accuracy is lower, as you stated, but it makes good traction in those conditions. In higher traction, the body does suffer on anything other than very high speed circuits with high speed corners.
Before the Jomurema body, the Mosler MT900S held its place as a very forgiving body, that could pretty much do it all. It made excellent traction, and had a great aero design for faster classes. Its one caveat was really the mass for stock classes, and slightly high CG in comparison to some of the really low slung bodies. I do plan to revisit this body soon, its on my list!
@@mini-z_me yeah, the 2010-2012 one with wider offset.
Setting up a car for a body will be interesting to hear. Can't wait for that one. Thank you for all your videos. They are very helpful.
Kyosho purist here, just as much as i'm a Lego purist (no china blocks please). Part of the fun of the Kyosho is the DEATILING and actually realizing the experience of these great race cars. I have not bought a Jomurema. I'm happy with my Kyosho experience, my Mercedes experience, my Audi experience, my Mclaren experience and so forth...IF a REAL Jomurema was manufactured, then yes i would buy the body.
Isn’t the Mazda body a 102MM ?? Also can u make a 102MM into a 98 car? Bought my first MiniZ a Toyota GT LM but now seeing its not 98 mm can I still use this car or it can’t be made into a 98Mm that will be able to race in stock/ box stock ?
Very interesting as always. Much appreciated!
On your main youtube channel at the top, the banner, I see a McLaren which I have the same one.
Would you be willing to share what offset of rims with tires you have on it? They look like PN Racing Mini-Z 2WD Machine Cut 10 Spoke but I am not sure if they are F1, F2, F3 and R1, R2, R3
AND Love your videos, learning a ton and practicing even more. TIA
Keep up the great videos!
The best body for these cars is the shortest and lightest one you can get. Aerodynamics doesn't really play a role at this size.
In one of you videos (which I can no longer find) you mention a better transponder (than the easy laps transponder). Could you tell me again?
Thank You very much for the interesting video.
I'm liking the NSX body for racing.
@9:50 by skirt i meant ofc splitter 😑 and jomurema body ofc
Thank you for the videos! I am really enjoying learning from all of your hard work. Jomurema is so ugly and generic that it is a deal breaker for me. Nice looking scale race cars is one of the whole points of Mini Z for me. Unfortunately my favorite race body is the now extinct Ferrari 599. I should test some bodies and see how it affects lap times. I've never done that with keeping all other set-up the same.
Aww... I watched the whole video waiting for you to get to the Mercedes you had there... never came up :(
Didn’t review the AMG?
And the amg?
For drifting body’s and wheelbase wat is better please
Sorry have no idea on this, @garage Rc would know this
Do a vid like this on the awd plzz
Does all this techno-babble really matter on these tiny cars?
Do you think it matters on real cars? Physics know no size, it stays the same.
You'll be surprise.
Not really.
Lol, the adjustments do make a difference…but one twitch of the steering or throttle makes it all for nothing…we are talking about tenth’s of a second on most of the mods…perfect driving, sure they make a difference, but not many people are perfect
@@WobbelyTable Reynolds’ numbers would beg to differ.
This is great info, however 99.9% of races are won by the best drivers regardless of aerodynamics!!