If you gonna play with the Mini-Z in your back yard or inside your house, just for fun, you will not need any upgrade parts. In this case the Read To Run kit is perfect. Besides, in this case, you will not feel diference with upgrade parts. But if you are looking for competition, you gonna need a better performance. In these case the PN Racing parts are much better then the Kyosho parts. The peaces that make high diference are tires (super soft, soft, medium), front suspention double-arm, T-Plate, bearing, springs for suspention, motor, radio control and ESC. But again, if you are not in a competition, you don´t need any of this.
IMO, use the stock parts until they break, then replace them with Al parts as they fail. I did that with my Mini Z monster years back and that seemed to be the most optimal way to handle it
Just started practicing with a stock narrow RWD roadster body, fully box stock. I am already only 2 seconds off some of the modified car times from my track now in Mesa, Arizona. If you can get good with stock parts then it would be a good time to consider upgrades. This was advice from some of the long time drivers from my track as well. I do Indoor Electric kart leagues and Sim-Racing as well and with those practices I almost always run stock setups as well and still stay competitive. In any form of racing if you can learn your basics and master them stock then the upgrades will feel more worth the wallet being emptied.
Bahahaha yes! That is my struggle LOL The fully upgraded MPower car on the right was originally intended to be fully stock so I could test against it 😹 but that dident last long
My swing arms are definitely going to be getting upgraded. I took my MA020 out on the track for the first time in a long time today and definitely for the longest time I ever used it. I busted all four stock swing arms. I ended up driving rear wheel drive only most of the time which was okay because I was going for grip with grip tires. The rear swing arms also popped apart at the CV ball joint, but the joining U-shaped pieces still stayed straight against each other enough to still work. One of those CV ball joints got lost, too. Everything else held up decently enough. Upgrades, ahoy!
lol upgrading is one of the most satisfying parts of this hobby. i just love tearing down a chassis, cleaning her up & slapping in some fresh upgrades 😸
@@BMR3 You got that right. I spent a bunch of time upgrading my two AWDs over the past couple weeks. I just finished my Skyline R33 today. I'll have to take it to the track this week. And my swing arms are definitely upgraded!
I 100% agree with wheel nuts, they are a huge improvement in terms of satisfaction lol I have three toasted plastic wheel nuts and every time I drift with them my wheels just loose itself So, aluminum wheel nuts are a need
Strength is a benefit to a degree but it also can causes something like the chassis to break instead of an arm, knuckle or linkage. But yeah I totally agree on the second point, it’s all about the personalization. That’s the biggest benefit.
Very good channel .. I have just ordered the Kyosho Set AWD MA 030EVO chassis with Subaru Impreza body and 85000 engine Before that, I had a MA 020 Evo Set and have been enjoying it for a long time Little by little I will try to modify the car with the most important aluminum parts. In the most important places, the aluminum will be better than the plastic although that is also relatively high quality .. In any case, there are already 3 breaks in the old chassis
Just because they don't make your car faster doesn't mean they aren't an upgrade, most aluminium parts are an upgrade because they will not snap or break like the stock plastic stuff. If anyone is buying aluminium tie rods or bottom plates and expecting a faster car then that's on them :D
True but sometimes you want the plastic bit to fail instead of having something more troublesome fail, like a servo gear or cracking the chassis. I feel like having too much aluminum will make the car more prone to a catastrophic failure, it’s better to have a bit of flex. The target audience for this video is beginners & those who haven’t already purchased car. I didn’t want them getting the impression that aluminum upgrades will make the car magically drive better. As they get more advanced & experienced, their stock parts will fail & they can look into durability upgrades as needed. I was focusing performance in this video, not durability but I understand your point.
Lol sorry I was quick on the trigger & started to respond before you finished revising your edit. Anyways, I got a little fired up & forgot the pleasantries lol. Hope your doing well man!
Hey bmr3, I’ve been in contact with MPower! They have a schedule to design a motor cover for the ma-030 that will allow more bodies to fit in the chassis
I agree, the front clips drive me crazy! They are a terrible design & always fall off to disappear. You don’t have to get the diff cover to use threaded pins, the threads only go into the suspension arms, not the diff cover. So you can get away with just the arms, but the skeletonized cover exposing the diff is pretty cool looking.
Yeah I have come to realize that upgrade parts can be a big waste of money for mini-z, only a few parts actually make a difference. Mini-z is great for beginners, but if you want to start upgrading & getting more advanced, I think it would be better to save up for a GL Racing or Atomic car instead of upgrading a mini-z.
Do it! That’s what attracted my to mini-z, I love to just look at them. That would be great if you could machine up some parts, if you do, let me know what you come up with!
Well, it looks like I'm getting one for my birthday. Dunno what I'll want to mill out for it, I guess we'll see. I kinda want it to have 4 wheel independent suspension, so...that may be a thing. Itll be the MR03 and im getting an LM model because i think they're gorgeous and I like racing more than drifting. I may make some adjustments so I can drift it too, but thats not my focus. I may also be making some parts for the 104001 if it ever arrives, and if they work well maybe even sell some.
I used to race 10th scale professionally in the early and mid 90's. Got out of the hobby when my mechanic/dad's health took a bad turn. I was a child and my parents wouldn't let me go on the road and continue racing with strangers as my chaperones. So my career ended. I'm 41 now and would love to get back in the hobby without going $10k-$20k in debt. 😂🤣😂 I think this would be a great opition for me. Although I don't think there are any leagues in my area. Thanks for the info!!
I got a challager from a bud for cheap. Took it to 90mm got the 8.5m rims with corect offset. Bout to get a hop up motor next. Trying to figger out what springs to get. I see now. Green in front.light blue in back.
Spring settings vary based on preference. For RWD I use soft in the rear & medium upfront & the opposite settings for AWD. The challenger comes with the wide front end so keep that in mind when downsizing to 90mm since 90mm bodies typically are narrow. Good luck with the build & let me know if you have further questions!
@@BMR3 good looking out cuz now i know why i had to get a +3 offset for the rear. I was looking at spring seems they come as rear sets and front sets. Super pricey. Thanks for the help
My the aluminum motor cover I’m adding between the sink and motor especial thermal foam the transfers the heat from the motor to the sink that is the best upgrade in my mini z . Aluminum parts only ball diffs,metal shafts,pnwc motor and of course gyro . For the radio I have ex-6r and 432pt that make performance better.
Wait wait wait, no do not add “thermal” foam in between your motor & heat sink... metal to metal or metal to plastic will ALWAYS have better heat dispersion then if you add a buffer like “thermal” foam. Trust me, remove any buffers & run the kit as it comes. If it worked better with a buffer, PN would have included that in their kit.
I have not, but that’s good to know! I’m also hoping that Mpower will develop a 0 degree 0 caster toe rod for the dws, it’s very difficult to use the dws with toe in
I remember on my first mini-z sports my plastic wheel nut broke and I thought it would be great if they made a metal one so I looked it up and found all the metal parts they make. That was a horrible mistake lol I had an x-mod back in the day and one of the steering knuckles broke and I couldn’t get a replacement part because they had discontinued the series. I do like the extra durability of aluminum parts, especially with parts that move a lot or can be impacted. Also speaking of high end aluminum parts I think I mentioned x-power to you last time but they still have a bunch of high end aluminum parts for the rear of awd mini-z.
This couldn't have come at a better time for me. Today I purchased an MR-03 Audi R8 and it should be arriving next week. Your advice is solid... but being so very, very new, it's tough to know which way to go on the suggestions. Who makes a quality differential for my car? I've spotted aluminum motor mounts for the MR-03, but not a heat sink clip. Any suggestions/links for front suspension arms? I'm going to learn and have fun at home for now... maybe racing later?
Hey man, sorry for the late reply! Somehow I missed this comment Regarding the differential, both PN Racing & Kyosho make very high quality ball differentials that will be a big improvement over the stock gear differential. As for the front suspension arms, there is NEXXRACING & PN but I would recommend NEXX since their front suspension comes preassembled. Here is a link from a shop I like: www.rcm8.net/collections/new-in/products/nexx-racing-v-line-front-suspension-system-various-colours?sca_ref=312304.oK4xOMQWY0 Yeah man, just have fun with it! I race at home since I don’t have any local shop & it’s still a blast.
@@BMR3 Thanks for the reply. Well, in the interim awaiting your sage advice, I couldn't resist going all-in and picking up one of the FWD Readysets from Kyosho. $129 for a car that is only 4 parts away from becoming an AWD drift monster?!? Yes, please. I'm working on sourcing parts for that right now. I'm investigating home racing too. I don't have a track yet, but I'm considering Walmart 2' exercise tiles... as well as the spendy RCP Mini96 track. Good times! I like the technical aspect of the Mini96 layout... good for improving skills. Anyway, thank you for your great beginner videos. You make the hobby seem fun (and not too difficult). I'd like to see an essential tool kit video in the same vein as your Know This Before You Buy Your First Hop Up Parts video.
@@SquadPainter I'm in the same boat as you my friend, been in to rc for over 20 years but never the little guys, I love them though. I've got the MR03 with a mercedes C9 body and im in love lol. One quick thing I wanted to share with you, I myself was looking at a track for the house, the rcp tracks are awesome but ridiculous in cost. I cheaper solution I've found is what they call "roofing paper" which is like an asphalt infused felt, you can get a 3 x 70 foot long roll at lowes for under 20 bucks, get some wood furring strips that are around a buck a piece for your barriers and boom, half decent track. The grip is actually just as good as rcp tracks.
Top upgrades: * nyloc Wheel nuts and plenty on hand i have found the adjustable rear suspension useful when dialing in the frame without wearing out the plastic but very quickly went to only one surface type and did not need to vary the rear grip at all going 'full' youtube with that title then and the like subscribe stuff
Agreed on the suspension, once you get it dialed in it dosent need adjustment. But that said, I have been playing with rear camber a lot lately & the ease of adjustment was very much appreciated. Bahaha I know, full on YT guy but I want to see if it works...
The a/b1, 2 & 3 motor mounts match up with specific spur gear and pinion combos for proper motor spacing. Refer to the handbook that comes with your kit to make sure your using the proper combo
This is Matt I bought some of your stuff the recent cars and stuff you sold. Can you put part numbers up for the stuff being a newbie I don't know what to look for
Hey Matt! Hope your enjoying the MR-03. What parts are you looking for specifically? It would take me too long to look up all the parts & find the associated #s, but I'm happy to help you source instock parts or point towards solid vendors you can browse.
@@BMR3 I haven't got to enjoy them yet I've been in the hospital. I mainly just trying to look at the stuff from your video that you said was necessary I don't know the exact part for the front end parts I just ordered the motor plate for both sides one for the big piece and I think the other ones for the battery stuff. On the ma020 is it better to have what kind of drift I'm sorry what kind of limited slip I need in the front to make it drift better?
Yep bro that’s what I have on the ma-020 in this video. It’s works great, well worth the $$$ since it comes with more mounting options then the stock standard DWS for the shock mounts.
The ma-030 has limited bodies & the DWS restricts you to the 98mm length. Here is a chart from Kyosho, it’s not perfect but it’s a good place to get started. There are some bodies that will fit despite what the website says, the R32 for example. If you have Facebook join the mini-a world group and ask, they will have the for sure answers. kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/ Good luck with your build!
For a for a beginner which would you recommend for all-wheel drive chassis? I don't really want to assemble the evil is the next best thing 020? Can it be upgraded to brushless eventually?
The ma-020 is a great place to stat & I recommend getting one if it’s your first mini-z. You can upgrade the board & motor to brushless but it’s very expensive, almost as much as the rtr kits.
Hi I was wondering what the a,b,c difference is between the heat sinks for a awd ma020. Is it just color? I don’t want to order the wrong size I have a mazdarx7 white initial d model it’s ma020. Thanks :)! Thanks for all the good info on your channel
BMR 3 ah I see thanks! Also I just recently installed a aluminum setting tie (n -1) and now in a neutral not moving position my servo sounds like it’s constantly making tiny movements. It’s not the beeping that can be tuned down with trim it’s like it’s working even just standing position? Do I need a little grease ?
Most DWS have toe built into the rear arms. Do you recommend a 0deg toe with DWS? I have the ma020ve I'd like to swap my drift stuff into but am worried about changing the rear contact patch. Thanks!
@TheBarreraLifeStyle don’t overthink it. Go with the stock setup to learn on and you can tinker with the settings like toe once you understand what it does to change the cars handling/steering characteristics. You need to know what you want out of the car before you can think about tuning. Good luck!
@@BMR3 Hey thanks for the reply! I recently went down the rabbit hole of 1/28-1/24 drift rc’s watching a lot of your videos and others but I see you don’t post as much (life happens) I saw all the rwd drift cars you build look amazing ,but I’m a little nervous building one of those since I’m new to the hobby ! I have the WLtoys drift truck awd , I just slide indoors since it’s -4 here in Minnesota, just a few hours ago I purchased the Ma020 MiniZ r34, was asking on Reddit and it seems no one regrets the purchase, I hope I dont either 😅
Hello! Great video! I’m actually new to the mini z world. I don’t have one yet, but looking into getting one. My question is which would you recommend to get, a mr02 or mr03?
Mr-02 is the older version of the mr-03, so I would recommend the mr-03. If your new, be careful your not confusing the MR & MA models, the MR line is RWD & the MA line is AWD
Mez it depends on your budget, but going with the ma-020 is the best option for most beginners. The car can drift right out of the box & you can upgrade it slowly as you gain more experience. The ma-030 is a better platform, but they are expensive unless you convert a FWD rtr kit, but that’s a lot of work to convert it, especially for someone new. Let me know if you have any further question or need me to elaborate further.
Do the aluminum parts you say are for looks so they help with being stronger tho. Also can you give me the link to your wheels you bought for the red one
Right here, you can also search the website for “ma-020” & they have a bunch of parts for super cheep: www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/shop/ShopProductDetail.aspx?id=MA20VE-19 Let me know if you have further questions & good luck with your build!
mostafa dawud Yep that’s what I have heard too, plus you have the option to upgrade later on 😼 Thank you for the comment & let me know what you think of the car once you get it. Have a great day man!
Hey man, new subscriber but have been watching for a while. Quick question, can I use gorilla glue on the body to put the tab that connects the body to the chassis to put it back in place or which type of glue would you recommend?
Thanks for the sub, I appreciate the support man! Gorilla glue should be fine, I normally use a two part epoxy to bind stuff like this but gorilla glue should be plenty strong.
Hi BMR, my rear inside rim keeps rubbing against the rear m power camber. Do I need spacers between the bearing and rim? Please let me know and thanks.!!!
If the rim is making contact with the knuckle you can either increase the rim offset so it sits farther away from the hub, or you can shave some material from the inside of the rim until it clears the rear hub. I had to shave material off the rims on my XRX since it was rubbing.
Lol they are getting super popular & selling out everywhere, but I found a smoking good deal. Ok so right now Kyosho is running a crazy deal on the MA-030F for only $129.00. This is the ma-030 chassis configured for FWD, but you can easily convert this to an AWD buy installing a center drive shaft. I think you have to buy the drive shaft separate, but they are cheep. The best part is the price is so cheep you can pick up an Autoscale body for $50.00 & it’s still going to be cheeper then a AWD ma-020 rtr set. Just be careful picking a body since the ma-030 has a high motor mount & it can interfere with a lot of shells. Here is the link: www.kyoshoamerica.com/FWD_c_1702.html?fbclid=IwAR1SHfyWYSMz0lEqXqsVs68eK0ZVNN1Y4B65o5lkAF7fI-8Y8cSbcc_M8sY
i just bought this one www.ebay.com/itm/Kyosho-Mini-Z-AWD-MA-020-Honda-CIVIC-Type-R-White-w-Radio-Readyset-RTR-Car-Kit/133603530221?hash=item1f1b6415ed:g:W8QAAOSw5ulf00kG :D
Hey bmr3, wondering what the difference between the motor mounts AB1,AB2, and AB3! I can’t find info online about them! Are they just slightly different for the gear mesh space?
The Numbers refers to different motor positions when changing the gear ratios so you can maintain proper pinion gear to spur gear mesh. If you refer to the instruction manual, page 66 it will give you all the info you need. Here a link to the online manual: www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/instructionmanual/mini-z/pdf/MA020-T11_IM.pdf
It really depends on the wheel base of the kit, but in most cases the kits are too big for a mini-z chassis. If you want a 1/24th scale chassis, look into the DRZ V2 & super skeeter conversions
My favorite distributor is RCM8, great website, great customer service & fast sipping. Heres a link to their site: www.rcm8.net?sca_ref=312304.oK4xOMQWY0
Thanks for the kind words and support man! The skyline r32 has a 1.5 offset all around. You could push it out to 2 in the front & just use wide rear rims with 1.5 or 2 offset and it should be perfect.
I've been looking at different aftermarket options for my Mini-Z AWD. In addition to Eagle racing & M-power, I've seen PN racing, TOP CAD and X-power - have you tested these.out before? Plus do you have an idea about compatibility of Atomic & GL Racing parts? I should probably take this question to a forum too... 😅😅😅
BMR 3 so I am thinking of buying one of these, and I really watched this video to see how expensive the hobby is, vs a normal 10th scale car and how hard it is to get parts?
Thank you for the subscription my friend! As far as price goes, there are cheeper then 1/10th scale but it depends how much you want to upgrade. Mini-z will cost you around $200 for a kit with the car, body & transmitter. Once you get a ma-020 they run great stock & don’t need to be upgraded, you can do simple diy modifications to make the car better. What is your budget? I may be able to help advise with your initial order.
Well my max budget I think I would wanna spend on the car is $325-$350 so I have about 100 bucks to spend after the initial purchase. I have mostly experience working on my 10th scale e Revo 2.0 but I have also worked on a 1/16th scale e Revo quite a bit. I also have 2 hobby shops near me that have a track for the mini z’s
Oooooo if you have local tracks you gotta take advantage of it! Talk to the guys who show up to race, they will be a fountain of knowledge & will save you from wasting money. If your planning on racing, I would check with the tracks before you make any purchases so you make sure you can stay within class spec. So wait are you going to race or drift? If your drifting I recommend getting the ma-020, if you want to race then go with the MR-03. The ma-020 is a lot of fun, but it can’t hold a candle to the mr-03 when it comes to racing.
Hi,I'm getting into the mini dritf cars I just got a atomic drz kit. .I would like to know from a experience person like you is it worth the time to get into this .drifting game.
Battery clip was made by Eagle Racing but I bought it from a Chinese distributor. For tires it really depends on how slow you want to drive, but I would recommend starting with the LF4 & go from there.
What aluminum motor mounts for ma-020 with the silvia body? I see three different PN racing sizes. Also what size tires for the silvia autoscale? I want grippy tires but am confused on sizing
@@wingmangaming2043 here is a link to their website, the parts are dirt cheep: www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/shop/ShopProduct.aspx?type=Search&keyword=Ma-020
My rear system just broken. Kyosho stock plastick are very weak. Could you help me by sending me the link to get the rear orange parts (MA-020 rear stock system), please ?
I’m sorry to hear your rear end broke, but luckily it won’t happen again after this upgrade. I will link both parts below. www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-MA010-Swing-Bar-Rear-90-94-Upper-Cover-Set-Orange_p_42780.html www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-MA010-90-94-Rear-Lower-Mount-Blue_p_42727.html
It just depends on how careful you are. I’ve only lost a couple clips, but I’m very careful. The moment your lax with these micros is when you start to lose stuff, it’s very easy.
Hi BMR I was wondering if there is any rear end upgrades needed for the rear m power upper arm holder to fit. I got the r33 gtr awd and don't know if the m power part will fit
Hello Bmr3 I’m wondering how the dws is working for you? I purchased one from kyosho and it came with two 4 degree toe bars! I had a difficult time drifting it with all that toe in! Just curious what you thoughts on it are
I don’t remember what degree the toe bar mine came with was but I don’t think it was 4 degrees lol. But I love mine, it performs great was fun to build.
Alright, I found a 2 degree toe bar on the Kyosho website but I’ve tried a 2 degree aluminum bar on the stock rear end, it doesn’t drift that well! I’m a car simulator game the rear wheels cannot have toe in due to it acting Squirrley during a drift! It’s sad that I cannot find a 0 degree bar for the dws, it would fit fine if they made one
We're do I buy all metal parts?? Seem like a lot of stuff we have this but out of this or out of stock. What are all the best places to modify my mini z awd and rwd evo
@@BMR3 My bad, I thought I worded that differently. I have a MR-03 RWD and I’m curious as to how to make it able to drift or if I’d have to go break the bank and get a kit like you have mentioned?
@@The_MAD_Qyuber exactly, gotta break the bank sorry brother. The issue with mini-z RWD is the steering angle, if you look at it there is not much at all, but for drifting you want damn near 90 degrees of tire rotation at full lock. If you check some of my RWD videos or even just look at the thumbnails you can see how much angle the tires have. Sadly the mini-z will never be able to drift unless you do heavy heavy modification & at that point it’s no longer a mini-z.
@@The_MAD_Qyuber yeah that’s the issue with this hobby 😹 nothing is cheep & not much can transfer from set up to set up. The DRZv2 is made by RC Atomic & you can buy them in the US from a few different websites but if your on Facebook, I recommend buying from Mikos in the group called “The Arc”. He’s the official US distributor for Atomic, has the best prices & a lot of experience. The DRZ is a great start for beginners, it’s not the easiest to assemble (requires a lot of attention to detail) but it’s the most comparable. You can use Mini-z shells or 1/24 scale model kits. I have a video up on my my channel detailing my build. It has some good information to help demonstrate what your getting into. Here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/CHz1WRNoya4/v-deo.html
Use the flat tool that comes with it to pop the batteries out, there’s a small gap between the chassis & batteries in the cemetery of the chassis. I use the tool to pry the 4 batteries out
I just got a MA030 in but like one of my MR03 Evo’s the brake reverse seems to be kind of messed up. I have to play with the trim to get them to work but the delay is still super inconsistent. Have you had any issues on the MA030 or MR03 Evo in regards to brake and reverse? Also I’m still using my KT-18 because the 432pt I got was defective. Did you have to use the ics connector at all to correct any issues?
Oh shit, your 432 is defective? You need to exchange that bad boy & it should clear up the trim issues. The kt18 is notoriously bad with the new evos. As far as the break delay, yep you have to reprogram the car through the ICS to get rid of it. The cars come with the reverse delay set at 5 but it needs to be set at 1 or 0 to eliminate the delay.
@@BMR3 Oh and yeah I sent me 432pt back but the retailer didn't have any others so I'm waiting for the backorder to be filled. Seems like it could be awhile since Kyosho hasn't been stocking anywhere much lately.
Sorry for the late reply, this is the one you want: www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-ICS-USB-Adapter-HS-High-Speed_p_46224.html It’s the same as the MR-03 ICS link, only difference is the software that you need to download. Just make sure you have the ma-030 file & you are good to go.
Hi, I have a miniZ ma010 RTR . When it turn on it makes noise even not throttle it. And for reverse, sometimes it's not working. Anyone knows what's wrong with it or is it faulty?
Ehhhh yes & no. Aluminum wheels are truer & have less vibrations since they are more uniform. But in a mini-z AWD that dosent make a noticeable difference, it’s more a concern for RWD drift chassis. One thing is aluminum rims are heavier then plastic, so they roll longer due to more momentum. Hope this helps, have a happy Friday buddy!
@@BMR3 I ordered motor holder MDW007-03 (Kyosho MDW007-03 Aluminum Motor Holder Set #3 MINI-Z AWD). They are labeled A3 and B3. Is this the correct set for a stock 90mm MA-020 or should I be using A1 / B1? Thank you !
@@BMR3 Hoping you can help. MA-020. I replaced the motor with an XSpeed V. I reassembled, powered everything on and pulled accelerator on the remote. Nothing happened. After a few seconds, I saw some smoke coming from motor area. I removed the xspeed and reinstalled the original motor. The car powers on, I can move the wheels side to side, but the motor only works in reverse. Nothing happens when I try to go forward. Did I fry the receiver board?
Hey bmr3 I have a issue with my rear spur gear grinding and clicking and I’ve had to change it to the lowest speed setting and it’s still grinding how do you suggest I would fix this as well as what parts would I actually need to bring the standard suspension to a dws suspension Thank you :)
@@maxbuckley9762 nah you don’t need extension blocks for the EVO since it has 3 mounting positions in the rear, one for 90mm, 94mm & finally 98mm. Changing the spur gear & drive shaft are only required if your changing the wheel bases. It comes stock at 98mm
I upgraded the AWD to ceramic bearing & I noticed the wheels spin a tiny bit more freely, but no noticeable difference while driving. I was super disappointed lol I’ll make a video soon talking about my experience with ceramics
Tonyw2394 what brand did you get? I know the Acer bearings require a bit of a break in period before they become super smooth, I know it sounds backwards for ceramics but I have seen a lot of people saying this. I use the mini-z brand charger but I don’t recommend it. I want to get a new charger soon & I’ll make a video about that once I do.
ricky bobby you might be able to get lucky and just reuse the existing solder. I had a motor wire pop off & I was able to reheat the exisiting solder blob & simply drop the wire back in. I’m on the same boat as you, I don’t know how to solder but I was able to get the repair done. Good luck brother, let me know how it goes!
Hey I’ve found some analog mini Z cars and I would like to convert them to a digital system. These cars have color coded crystals are there upgrades for this conversion if so where could I purchase them
DS Racing is the brand of the tires, I have a video dedicated to them & in that video is the email address to reach them directly. It’s the quickest & by far cheapest way to get these tires since you avoid mark up by buying direct.
Yup, the difference is so minuscule that’s it’s unnoticeable. In my Eagle racing video & in one of the MPower videos I weighted out the parts & was shocked at how small the difference was. For MPower I believe it only add about 2-3g totals for all that aluminum
if your going to upgrade anything ALWAYS buy the upgrades than work from there. never buy stock. even the the controller. you will have nothing but a box of stock parts or just completely abandon it. lol i have nothing but boxes of stock complete rc's and full upgrades that i use all the time. BUT if you just want to bash than buy the stock.
BMR 3 Good deal. I used to race XMods, many years ago, but got out of it for other interests. I’ve been contemplating getting back into mini z or 1/10 scale drifting. Still pretty undecided.
ReRunns Place depends on your budget & if you already have some equipment, but I would suggest looking into the Atomic DRZ V2. They are leaps & bounds better then a mini-z & only about 1/3 more expensive (if you already have a receiver/transponder)
@@TiagoDeOliveiraHH ok I just needed a little info to make a good recommendation. I highly recommend the ma-020 FHSS with the 94mm wheel base: www.rcm8.net/collections/cars-rtr/products/kyosho-miniz-awd-calconic-skyline-gt-r-r32-32618cs?sca_ref=312304.oK4xOMQWY0&sca_source=UA-cam 94mm is pretty stable & the ma-020 come preassembled so all you need are battery’s to start drifting, plus the one I linked has the newest version of FHSS electronics. Let me know if you have any further questions man
![[Review] Atomic AMZ 1/27 4WD RC Car](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/u7Jsw8IW-zY/mqdefault.jpg)
If you gonna play with the Mini-Z in your back yard or inside your house, just for fun, you will not need any upgrade parts. In this case the Read To Run kit is perfect. Besides, in this case, you will not feel diference with upgrade parts.
But if you are looking for competition, you gonna need a better performance. In these case the PN Racing parts are much better then the Kyosho parts. The peaces that make high diference are tires (super soft, soft, medium), front suspention double-arm, T-Plate, bearing, springs for suspention, motor, radio control and ESC.
But again, if you are not in a competition, you don´t need any of this.
IMO, use the stock parts until they break, then replace them with Al parts as they fail. I did that with my Mini Z monster years back and that seemed to be the most optimal way to handle it
@@matt-lang just ordered my first mini z hope it’s worth it !
The shiny parts actually make the car go faster. They're like adding stickers to a real car. 5bhp per part.
Ah shoot, I forgot to mention that! Not to mention that red parts have +2hp stacked on the shiny +5hp. 😹
😂 Go faster stripes rule
Dr.Gee Chatha LOL racing strips very from body to body, but flames only belong in the trash
@@BMR3 don't forget tinted Windows.. 😎 Add 10mph to top speed.
Ahh facts my man 😂 Reminds me of Jeremy Clarkson
Just started practicing with a stock narrow RWD roadster body, fully box stock. I am already only 2 seconds off some of the modified car times from my track now in Mesa, Arizona. If you can get good with stock parts then it would be a good time to consider upgrades. This was advice from some of the long time drivers from my track as well. I do Indoor Electric kart leagues and Sim-Racing as well and with those practices I almost always run stock setups as well and still stay competitive. In any form of racing if you can learn your basics and master them stock then the upgrades will feel more worth the wallet being emptied.
Me: Aight, BMR says its mostly aesthetics. Let’s only get Diff and swing arms and-
Also me: BUT THEY ARE SO PRETTY AND SHINY
Bahahaha yes! That is my struggle LOL
The fully upgraded MPower car on the right was originally intended to be fully stock so I could test against it 😹 but that dident last long
My swing arms are definitely going to be getting upgraded. I took my MA020 out on the track for the first time in a long time today and definitely for the longest time I ever used it. I busted all four stock swing arms. I ended up driving rear wheel drive only most of the time which was okay because I was going for grip with grip tires. The rear swing arms also popped apart at the CV ball joint, but the joining U-shaped pieces still stayed straight against each other enough to still work. One of those CV ball joints got lost, too. Everything else held up decently enough. Upgrades, ahoy!
lol upgrading is one of the most satisfying parts of this hobby. i just love tearing down a chassis, cleaning her up & slapping in some fresh upgrades 😸
@@BMR3 You got that right. I spent a bunch of time upgrading my two AWDs over the past couple weeks. I just finished my Skyline R33 today. I'll have to take it to the track this week. And my swing arms are definitely upgraded!
I 100% agree with wheel nuts, they are a huge improvement in terms of satisfaction lol
I have three toasted plastic wheel nuts and every time I drift with them my wheels just loose itself
So, aluminum wheel nuts are a need
Strength. That’s the benefit. Personalization is also a benefit, in a different way.
Strength is a benefit to a degree but it also can causes something like the chassis to break instead of an arm, knuckle or linkage.
But yeah I totally agree on the second point, it’s all about the personalization. That’s the biggest benefit.
@@BMR3 Good point. Never thought about that. Shiny aluminum arms on half of a chassis.
Very good channel ..
I have just ordered the Kyosho Set AWD MA 030EVO chassis with Subaru Impreza body and 85000 engine
Before that, I had a MA 020 Evo Set and have been enjoying it for a long time
Little by little I will try to modify the car with the most important aluminum parts.
In the most important places, the aluminum will be better than the plastic
although that is also relatively high quality ..
In any case, there are already 3 breaks in the old chassis
yeah sadly Kyosho uses very brittle plastic in their chassis so they cant hold up to hard hits. Just one wrong turn & the chassis can be nearly ruined
Just because they don't make your car faster doesn't mean they aren't an upgrade, most aluminium parts are an upgrade because they will not snap or break like the stock plastic stuff. If anyone is buying aluminium tie rods or bottom plates and expecting a faster car then that's on them :D
True but sometimes you want the plastic bit to fail instead of having something more troublesome fail, like a servo gear or cracking the chassis. I feel like having too much aluminum will make the car more prone to a catastrophic failure, it’s better to have a bit of flex.
The target audience for this video is beginners & those who haven’t already purchased car. I didn’t want them getting the impression that aluminum upgrades will make the car magically drive better. As they get more advanced & experienced, their stock parts will fail & they can look into durability upgrades as needed.
I was focusing performance in this video, not durability but I understand your point.
Lol sorry I was quick on the trigger & started to respond before you finished revising your edit.
Anyways, I got a little fired up & forgot the pleasantries lol. Hope your doing well man!
Hey bmr3, I’ve been in contact with MPower! They have a schedule to design a motor cover for the ma-030 that will allow more bodies to fit in the chassis
Have you seen the one by PN Racing? it seems to have a lower profile as well 😺
Very good thanks
Just started upgrading my mini z and it’s really addictive 😅
It’s the best when you first get into upgrading and overwhelmed with all the info lol good luck with your build!
I love front cover and arms just to get rid of the annoying front clip that just runs off every chance it gets. 😂 I'm always missing one.
I agree, the front clips drive me crazy! They are a terrible design & always fall off to disappear.
You don’t have to get the diff cover to use threaded pins, the threads only go into the suspension arms, not the diff cover. So you can get away with just the arms, but the skeletonized cover exposing the diff is pretty cool looking.
@@BMR3 it's handy if you have adjustable front diff. 👍🏽
I have wasted a lot of money already for my MR03. For the AWD, i agree too that the power parts are super useful.
Yeah I have come to realize that upgrade parts can be a big waste of money for mini-z, only a few parts actually make a difference. Mini-z is great for beginners, but if you want to start upgrading & getting more advanced, I think it would be better to save up for a GL Racing or Atomic car instead of upgrading a mini-z.
you mean invest a lot of money that bring you joy, pride and happiness
I really like the mini z cars... theyre soooooo cute! Tempted to get one and try cutting out some aluminum parts on the cnc.
Do it! That’s what attracted my to mini-z, I love to just look at them.
That would be great if you could machine up some parts, if you do, let me know what you come up with!
Well, it looks like I'm getting one for my birthday. Dunno what I'll want to mill out for it, I guess we'll see. I kinda want it to have 4 wheel independent suspension, so...that may be a thing. Itll be the MR03 and im getting an LM model because i think they're gorgeous and I like racing more than drifting. I may make some adjustments so I can drift it too, but thats not my focus.
I may also be making some parts for the 104001 if it ever arrives, and if they work well maybe even sell some.
Best upgrade is a driving skills 😂
agreed, nothing can compensate for time spent learning to drive.
@@BMR3 I remember my indoor offroad racing days, it felt like I was living at the race track. Everyday all day😂
Charlie Horse that’s the best, I love when I can just spend hours on the wheel. I get so laser focused
@@BMR3 tunnel zone haha. Cant be on the zone without the green, if u know what I mean?😂
Charlie Horse Bahahaha!! I was thinking that but didn’t couldn’t come up with a clever way of saying it 😉🌲🔥
The only upgrades I’ve done is take it out of training mode and add bearings.
those are two massive upgrades right there. Honestly these dont need much upgrades if your just trying to have fun & relax/blow off steam.
Not going to lie, the cars look way better with the metal parts. I don’t care if they don’t add any performance they look stellar!
I couldn’t agree more! I’m all about the bling, it’s half the fun.
You will never retire
i wish there was just one place to buy all this parts cos im looking at 10 different shops for all this parts ;D
Exactly, that’s the struggle with building a chassis. You have to factor in an extra $100 into your budget for shipping from various sites.
I used to race 10th scale professionally in the early and mid 90's.
Got out of the hobby when my mechanic/dad's health took a bad turn. I was a child and my parents wouldn't let me go on the road and continue racing with strangers as my chaperones. So my career ended.
I'm 41 now and would love to get back in the hobby without going $10k-$20k in debt. 😂🤣😂 I think this would be a great opition for me.
Although I don't think there are any leagues in my area. Thanks for the info!!
Wish you linked all the parts you used in the description, also which brand here is the best for everything?
Great video and very helpful. I’m trying to get into mini z but haven’t found a rtr awd to buy yet lol
Hey man just saw this. Hope you find a rtr kit but let me know if you haven’t, I’ll pull one for you.
I got a challager from a bud for cheap. Took it to 90mm got the 8.5m rims with corect offset. Bout to get a hop up motor next. Trying to figger out what springs to get. I see now. Green in front.light blue in back.
Spring settings vary based on preference. For RWD I use soft in the rear & medium upfront & the opposite settings for AWD.
The challenger comes with the wide front end so keep that in mind when downsizing to 90mm since 90mm bodies typically are narrow.
Good luck with the build & let me know if you have further questions!
@@BMR3 good looking out cuz now i know why i had to get a +3 offset for the rear. I was looking at spring seems they come as rear sets and front sets. Super pricey. Thanks for the help
@@johneppstv yeah nothing is cheep with this hobby 😂 even the springs are ludicrous.
My the aluminum motor cover I’m adding between the sink and motor especial thermal foam the transfers the heat from the motor to the sink that is the best upgrade in my mini z . Aluminum parts only ball diffs,metal shafts,pnwc motor and of course gyro . For the radio I have ex-6r and 432pt that make performance better.
Wait wait wait, no do not add “thermal” foam in between your motor & heat sink... metal to metal or metal to plastic will ALWAYS have better heat dispersion then if you add a buffer like “thermal” foam.
Trust me, remove any buffers & run the kit as it comes. If it worked better with a buffer, PN would have included that in their kit.
Great video... i might ask you about the upgrade later...
Feel free to ask away man!
Hey bmr3, I’ve been in contact with MPower! They have a schedule to design a motor cover for the ma-030 slim enough to fit more bodies🙂
Have you seen the one by PN Racing? it seems to have a lower profile as well 😺
I have not, but that’s good to know! I’m also hoping that Mpower will develop a 0 degree 0 caster toe rod for the dws, it’s very difficult to use the dws with toe in
I remember on my first mini-z sports my plastic wheel nut broke and I thought it would be great if they made a metal one so I looked it up and found all the metal parts they make. That was a horrible mistake lol
I had an x-mod back in the day and one of the steering knuckles broke and I couldn’t get a replacement part because they had discontinued the series. I do like the extra durability of aluminum parts, especially with parts that move a lot or can be impacted.
Also speaking of high end aluminum parts I think I mentioned x-power to you last time but they still have a bunch of high end aluminum parts for the rear of awd mini-z.
This couldn't have come at a better time for me. Today I purchased an MR-03 Audi R8 and it should be arriving next week. Your advice is solid... but being so very, very new, it's tough to know which way to go on the suggestions. Who makes a quality differential for my car? I've spotted aluminum motor mounts for the MR-03, but not a heat sink clip. Any suggestions/links for front suspension arms? I'm going to learn and have fun at home for now... maybe racing later?
Oh! And tools! Any suggestions for a starter kit? As I said, I'm starting from scratch.
Hey man, sorry for the late reply! Somehow I missed this comment
Regarding the differential, both PN Racing & Kyosho make very high quality ball differentials that will be a big improvement over the stock gear differential.
As for the front suspension arms, there is NEXXRACING & PN but I would recommend NEXX since their front suspension comes preassembled. Here is a link from a shop I like: www.rcm8.net/collections/new-in/products/nexx-racing-v-line-front-suspension-system-various-colours?sca_ref=312304.oK4xOMQWY0
Yeah man, just have fun with it! I race at home since I don’t have any local shop & it’s still a blast.
@@BMR3 Thanks for the reply. Well, in the interim awaiting your sage advice, I couldn't resist going all-in and picking up one of the FWD Readysets from Kyosho. $129 for a car that is only 4 parts away from becoming an AWD drift monster?!? Yes, please. I'm working on sourcing parts for that right now.
I'm investigating home racing too. I don't have a track yet, but I'm considering Walmart 2' exercise tiles... as well as the spendy RCP Mini96 track. Good times! I like the technical aspect of the Mini96 layout... good for improving skills.
Anyway, thank you for your great beginner videos. You make the hobby seem fun (and not too difficult). I'd like to see an essential tool kit video in the same vein as your Know This Before You Buy Your First Hop Up Parts video.
@@SquadPainter I'm in the same boat as you my friend, been in to rc for over 20 years but never the little guys, I love them though. I've got the MR03 with a mercedes C9 body and im in love lol. One quick thing I wanted to share with you, I myself was looking at a track for the house, the rcp tracks are awesome but ridiculous in cost. I cheaper solution I've found is what they call "roofing paper" which is like an asphalt infused felt, you can get a 3 x 70 foot long roll at lowes for under 20 bucks, get some wood furring strips that are around a buck a piece for your barriers and boom, half decent track. The grip is actually just as good as rcp tracks.
Top upgrades:
* nyloc Wheel nuts and plenty on hand
i have found the adjustable rear suspension useful when dialing in the frame without wearing out the plastic but very quickly went to only one surface type and did not need to vary the rear grip at all
going 'full' youtube with that title then and the like subscribe stuff
Agreed on the suspension, once you get it dialed in it dosent need adjustment. But that said, I have been playing with rear camber a lot lately & the ease of adjustment was very much appreciated.
Bahaha I know, full on YT guy but I want to see if it works...
Hey boss I was wondering what’s the difference in the motor mounts? I can’t find A1/B1 I can only fine A2/B2. Thanks in advanced
The a/b1, 2 & 3 motor mounts match up with specific spur gear and pinion combos for proper motor spacing. Refer to the handbook that comes with your kit to make sure your using the proper combo
This is Matt I bought some of your stuff the recent cars and stuff you sold. Can you put part numbers up for the stuff being a newbie I don't know what to look for
Hey Matt! Hope your enjoying the MR-03. What parts are you looking for specifically? It would take me too long to look up all the parts & find the associated #s, but I'm happy to help you source instock parts or point towards solid vendors you can browse.
@@BMR3 I haven't got to enjoy them yet I've been in the hospital. I mainly just trying to look at the stuff from your video that you said was necessary I don't know the exact part for the front end parts I just ordered the motor plate for both sides one for the big piece and I think the other ones for the battery stuff. On the ma020 is it better to have what kind of drift I'm sorry what kind of limited slip I need in the front to make it drift better?
Have you tried the DWS in Narrow from MPower? I was considering adding that to my MA030 so I can keep running a narrow auto body.
Yep bro that’s what I have on the ma-020 in this video. It’s works great, well worth the $$$ since it comes with more mounting options then the stock standard DWS for the shock mounts.
where can i find a list of bodies that fit the MA-03 EVO using the DWS and wide setup?
The ma-030 has limited bodies & the DWS restricts you to the 98mm length. Here is a chart from Kyosho, it’s not perfect but it’s a good place to get started. There are some bodies that will fit despite what the website says, the R32 for example. If you have Facebook join the mini-a world group and ask, they will have the for sure answers.
kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/
Good luck with your build!
For a for a beginner which would you recommend for all-wheel drive chassis? I don't really want to assemble the evil is the next best thing 020? Can it be upgraded to brushless eventually?
The ma-020 is a great place to stat & I recommend getting one if it’s your first mini-z. You can upgrade the board & motor to brushless but it’s very expensive, almost as much as the rtr kits.
maybe you can add #5 metal wheel nuts?
Hi I was wondering what the a,b,c difference is between the heat sinks for a awd ma020. Is it just color? I don’t want to order the wrong size I have a mazdarx7 white initial d model it’s ma020. Thanks :)! Thanks for all the good info on your channel
There is no A, B ,C its A1, A2, & A3
A1 corresponds to the stock gear ratio & thats what im sure you are using.
BMR 3 ah I see thanks! Also I just recently installed a aluminum setting tie (n -1) and now in a neutral not moving position my servo sounds like it’s constantly making tiny movements. It’s not the beeping that can be tuned down with trim it’s like it’s working even just standing position? Do I need a little grease ?
I am so confused. Where did you get the rear shocks for the Mpower shock tower.
Those are the standard Kyosho brand shocks that come with the DWS kit.
Let me know if you have further questions, I’m happy to help brother!
Thanks!
Great video. I just bought a Toyota GR Supra AWD mini z(MA-020 chassis), would the aluminum upgrade suggestions be the same for this chassis?
Yes sir, same exact chassis
Most DWS have toe built into the rear arms. Do you recommend a 0deg toe with DWS?
I have the ma020ve I'd like to swap my drift stuff into but am worried about changing the rear contact patch.
Thanks!
Hey did you figure out I want a mini z for drifting but seems complicated
@TheBarreraLifeStyle don’t overthink it. Go with the stock setup to learn on and you can tinker with the settings like toe once you understand what it does to change the cars handling/steering characteristics.
You need to know what you want out of the car before you can think about tuning. Good luck!
@@BMR3 Hey thanks for the reply! I recently went down the rabbit hole of 1/28-1/24 drift rc’s watching a lot of your videos and others but I see you don’t post as much (life happens) I saw all the rwd drift cars you build look amazing ,but I’m a little nervous building one of those since I’m new to the hobby ! I have the WLtoys drift truck awd , I just slide indoors since it’s -4 here in Minnesota, just a few hours ago I purchased the Ma020 MiniZ r34, was asking on Reddit and it seems no one regrets the purchase, I hope I dont either 😅
Hello! Great video! I’m actually new to the mini z world. I don’t have one yet, but looking into getting one. My question is which would you recommend to get, a mr02 or mr03?
Mr-02 is the older version of the mr-03, so I would recommend the mr-03.
If your new, be careful your not confusing the MR & MA models, the MR line is RWD & the MA line is AWD
BMR 3 sorry I meant the ma not the me. Auto correct lol. Which would be the best ma to get to start off with?
Mez it depends on your budget, but going with the ma-020 is the best option for most beginners. The car can drift right out of the box & you can upgrade it slowly as you gain more experience.
The ma-030 is a better platform, but they are expensive unless you convert a FWD rtr kit, but that’s a lot of work to convert it, especially for someone new.
Let me know if you have any further question or need me to elaborate further.
does the MA030 EVO has also training mode like the RTR?
Mine did not, it was ready to go as soon as I bound it.
Do the aluminum parts you say are for looks so they help with being stronger tho. Also can you give me the link to your wheels you bought for the red one
yeah they are stronger but can be brittle so they are prone to breaking if you drop your chassis. Here is that link: www.mpower-pro.com/miniz/ma020
Amazing great educational video. I wish you could help me make one like the one you featured in your video.
Hi man!!! Where i can find the aluminium battery cover for my MA-020??
Right here, you can also search the website for “ma-020” & they have a bunch of parts for super cheep: www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/shop/ShopProductDetail.aspx?id=MA20VE-19
Let me know if you have further questions & good luck with your build!
I ordered a wltoys k989 to get into micro drifting
Nice choice! I have heard they are great once tuned
Thank you for the reply! I was watching beaver hobby’s videos in this micro machine and he says they are great. So I decided to get one.
mostafa dawud Yep that’s what I have heard too, plus you have the option to upgrade later on 😼
Thank you for the comment & let me know what you think of the car once you get it. Have a great day man!
BMR 3 thanks man, I sure will!
i just like to know where do you buy your wheels and tires and what kind do i need for hard surfer indoors drifting? please link me up ;D
Hey man, new subscriber but have been watching for a while. Quick question, can I use gorilla glue on the body to put the tab that connects the body to the chassis to put it back in place or which type of glue would you recommend?
Thanks for the sub, I appreciate the support man!
Gorilla glue should be fine, I normally use a two part epoxy to bind stuff like this but gorilla glue should be plenty strong.
Hi BMR, my rear inside rim keeps rubbing against the rear m power camber. Do I need spacers between the bearing and rim? Please let me know and thanks.!!!
If the rim is making contact with the knuckle you can either increase the rim offset so it sits farther away from the hub, or you can shave some material from the inside of the rim until it clears the rear hub.
I had to shave material off the rims on my XRX since it was rubbing.
@@BMR3 thankyou BMR! I am ordering .02 shims.. maybe a few of those can help.!! ❤️❤️❤️
Whats the part number or a url for the ma020 aluminum motor mount? Cant seem to find it anywhere :)
How does the he eagle racing front one way perform? Any quality issues?
I haven’t tried it myself but I heard they work just fine.
Why is it so hard to find any of the awd cars? I can’t find them in stock anywhere!
Lol they are getting super popular & selling out everywhere, but I found a smoking good deal.
Ok so right now Kyosho is running a crazy deal on the MA-030F for only $129.00. This is the ma-030 chassis configured for FWD, but you can easily convert this to an AWD buy installing a center drive shaft. I think you have to buy the drive shaft separate, but they are cheep.
The best part is the price is so cheep you can pick up an Autoscale body for $50.00 & it’s still going to be cheeper then a AWD ma-020 rtr set. Just be careful picking a body since the ma-030 has a high motor mount & it can interfere with a lot of shells.
Here is the link: www.kyoshoamerica.com/FWD_c_1702.html?fbclid=IwAR1SHfyWYSMz0lEqXqsVs68eK0ZVNN1Y4B65o5lkAF7fI-8Y8cSbcc_M8sY
i just bought this one www.ebay.com/itm/Kyosho-Mini-Z-AWD-MA-020-Honda-CIVIC-Type-R-White-w-Radio-Readyset-RTR-Car-Kit/133603530221?hash=item1f1b6415ed:g:W8QAAOSw5ulf00kG :D
Nice man! Have fun modifying her ;)
@@BMR3 Im going to widen the body, and then hydro dip it. Finish with som stickers for horsepower
@@BMR3 hey dude, can i instal an under glow kit? Iv seen the led lights
Hey bmr3, wondering what the difference between the motor mounts AB1,AB2, and AB3! I can’t find info online about them! Are they just slightly different for the gear mesh space?
The Numbers refers to different motor positions when changing the gear ratios so you can maintain proper pinion gear to spur gear mesh. If you refer to the instruction manual, page 66 it will give you all the info you need. Here a link to the online manual: www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/instructionmanual/mini-z/pdf/MA020-T11_IM.pdf
Thanks very much, I ended up finding it
Can normal 1/24th scale kit bodies be used with these cars? Also, I assume there are aftermarket rims etc. available?
It really depends on the wheel base of the kit, but in most cases the kits are too big for a mini-z chassis.
If you want a 1/24th scale chassis, look into the DRZ V2 & super skeeter conversions
@BMR 3 can you please put links to places i can get parts from thanks.
My favorite distributor is RCM8, great website, great customer service & fast sipping. Heres a link to their site: www.rcm8.net?sca_ref=312304.oK4xOMQWY0
How do you tune a stock diff. I'm getting the car skidding out to the left because the left rear is loosing power. Running the xspeed motor.
Hey man! Love the video. What would be a good offset that’s flush enough but doesn’t rub on a MR-03 r32 grr? Looking for new wheels lol.
Thanks for the kind words and support man!
The skyline r32 has a 1.5 offset all around. You could push it out to 2 in the front & just use wide rear rims with 1.5 or 2 offset and it should be perfect.
Thank you bro
Jose6point2 anytime buddy, I’m happy to help!
Aloeminum.... Aluminium.... ALUMINIUM!!!!!!!
🤑🤑🤑
Yo great video. Is that a white S14 body?
$13
I've been looking at different aftermarket options for my Mini-Z AWD. In addition to Eagle racing & M-power, I've seen PN racing, TOP CAD and X-power - have you tested these.out before? Plus do you have an idea about compatibility of Atomic & GL Racing parts?
I should probably take this question to a forum too... 😅😅😅
BMR 3 so I am thinking of buying one of these, and I really watched this video to see how expensive the hobby is, vs a normal 10th scale car and how hard it is to get parts?
Definitely subbing tho, love the content!
Thank you for the subscription my friend!
As far as price goes, there are cheeper then 1/10th scale but it depends how much you want to upgrade. Mini-z will cost you around $200 for a kit with the car, body & transmitter. Once you get a ma-020 they run great stock & don’t need to be upgraded, you can do simple diy modifications to make the car better.
What is your budget? I may be able to help advise with your initial order.
Well my max budget I think I would wanna spend on the car is $325-$350 so I have about 100 bucks to spend after the initial purchase. I have mostly experience working on my 10th scale e Revo 2.0 but I have also worked on a 1/16th scale e Revo quite a bit. I also have 2 hobby shops near me that have a track for the mini z’s
Oooooo if you have local tracks you gotta take advantage of it! Talk to the guys who show up to race, they will be a fountain of knowledge & will save you from wasting money.
If your planning on racing, I would check with the tracks before you make any purchases so you make sure you can stay within class spec.
So wait are you going to race or drift? If your drifting I recommend getting the ma-020, if you want to race then go with the MR-03. The ma-020 is a lot of fun, but it can’t hold a candle to the mr-03 when it comes to racing.
I think I’ll be doing more for racing
Hi,I'm getting into the mini dritf cars I just got a atomic drz kit. .I would like to know from a experience person like you is it worth the time to get into this .drifting game.
Yes I think it’s well worth the time if you want to spend the time. Just depends on how busy you are & what your priorities are.
Where did you get the aluminium battery clip and what ds racing tyres do u recommend for tiled wood floors?
Battery clip was made by Eagle Racing but I bought it from a Chinese distributor.
For tires it really depends on how slow you want to drive, but I would recommend starting with the LF4 & go from there.
Also does dws fit with all bodies for mini z awd and can u send a link for the battery clip and the m power suspension arm?
What aluminum motor mounts for ma-020 with the silvia body? I see three different PN racing sizes. Also what size tires for the silvia autoscale? I want grippy tires but am confused on sizing
Where did you buy those front suspension arms!
Which ones? The blue ones are from Eagle Racing & the red ones are Mpower
@@BMR3 the blue ones
@@wingmangaming2043 here is a link to their website, the parts are dirt cheep: www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/shop/ShopProduct.aspx?type=Search&keyword=Ma-020
My rear system just broken. Kyosho stock plastick are very weak. Could you help me by sending me the link to get the rear orange parts (MA-020 rear stock system), please ?
I’m sorry to hear your rear end broke, but luckily it won’t happen again after this upgrade. I will link both parts below.
www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-MA010-Swing-Bar-Rear-90-94-Upper-Cover-Set-Orange_p_42780.html
www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-MA010-90-94-Rear-Lower-Mount-Blue_p_42727.html
How often do the tiny important parts get lost or misplaced while making upgrades? How can you avoid lost parts in work area?
It just depends on how careful you are. I’ve only lost a couple clips, but I’m very careful. The moment your lax with these micros is when you start to lose stuff, it’s very easy.
I keep everything thing in plastic bags & Tupperware so I don’t lose anything. Organization is key to not losing stuff in your work area.
Big table very clear. Big mat or clear floor underneath.
On motor, can the stock MR03 electronic take the PN racing 43T or 50T motor?
I'm not big in MR chassis so I cannot advise, sorry brother!
Can you use the rear Teflon knuckles with the stock rear end stuff that's already on the car?
Yep it’s a perfect fit & smoother then stock knuckles.
@@BMR3 thank you for the comment you also just gave me a comment earlier today on the Facebook page.
@@mzondi1970 happy to help brother! Let me know if you have any further questions.
hey man you stillther seen you havent posted in months
Do you know the part number for the motor mount clips?
Hi BMR I was wondering if there is any rear end upgrades needed for the rear m power upper arm holder to fit. I got the r33 gtr awd and don't know if the m power part will fit
Hello Bmr3 I’m wondering how the dws is working for you? I purchased one from kyosho and it came with two 4 degree toe bars! I had a difficult time drifting it with all that toe in! Just curious what you thoughts on it are
I don’t remember what degree the toe bar mine came with was but I don’t think it was 4 degrees lol. But I love mine, it performs great was fun to build.
Alright, I found a 2 degree toe bar on the Kyosho website but I’ve tried a 2 degree aluminum bar on the stock rear end, it doesn’t drift that well! I’m a car simulator game the rear wheels cannot have toe in due to it acting Squirrley during a drift! It’s sad that I cannot find a 0 degree bar for the dws, it would fit fine if they made one
We're do I buy all metal parts?? Seem like a lot of stuff we have this but out of this or out of stock. What are all the best places to modify my mini z awd and rwd evo
What would you suggest for a rwd drift setup? Without swapping to a different build.
What do you mean? You can’t use a mini-z for RWD, it has to be a dedicated RWD drift chassis. I would highly recommend the DRZ V2
@@BMR3 My bad, I thought I worded that differently.
I have a MR-03 RWD and I’m curious as to how to make it able to drift or if I’d have to go break the bank and get a kit like you have mentioned?
@@The_MAD_Qyuber exactly, gotta break the bank sorry brother. The issue with mini-z RWD is the steering angle, if you look at it there is not much at all, but for drifting you want damn near 90 degrees of tire rotation at full lock. If you check some of my RWD videos or even just look at the thumbnails you can see how much angle the tires have.
Sadly the mini-z will never be able to drift unless you do heavy heavy modification & at that point it’s no longer a mini-z.
@@BMR3 I had a feeling I’d have to break the bank. So you’d suggest the DRZ-V2 and who is the maker?
@@The_MAD_Qyuber yeah that’s the issue with this hobby 😹 nothing is cheep & not much can transfer from set up to set up.
The DRZv2 is made by RC Atomic & you can buy them in the US from a few different websites but if your on Facebook, I recommend buying from Mikos in the group called “The Arc”. He’s the official US distributor for Atomic, has the best prices & a lot of experience.
The DRZ is a great start for beginners, it’s not the easiest to assemble (requires a lot of attention to detail) but it’s the most comparable. You can use Mini-z shells or 1/24 scale model kits. I have a video up on my my channel detailing my build. It has some good information to help demonstrate what your getting into. Here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/CHz1WRNoya4/v-deo.html
Hi, so I see a few people starting to use there mini z in drag racing, what would be a good set up for that type in racing, thanks
How long it lasts if I just keep it stock part?
Pretty much forever if you don’t crash or drop it. There is really no need to upgrade from stock plastic parts & accessory/option parts kyosho makes.
For the ma 020 how do you remove the batteries?
Use the flat tool that comes with it to pop the batteries out, there’s a small gap between the chassis & batteries in the cemetery of the chassis. I use the tool to pry the 4 batteries out
Ok thanks
I just got a MA030 in but like one of my MR03 Evo’s the brake reverse seems to be kind of messed up. I have to play with the trim to get them to work but the delay is still super inconsistent. Have you had any issues on the MA030 or MR03 Evo in regards to brake and reverse?
Also I’m still using my KT-18 because the 432pt I got was defective. Did you have to use the ics connector at all to correct any issues?
Oh shit, your 432 is defective? You need to exchange that bad boy & it should clear up the trim issues. The kt18 is notoriously bad with the new evos.
As far as the break delay, yep you have to reprogram the car through the ICS to get rid of it. The cars come with the reverse delay set at 5 but it needs to be set at 1 or 0 to eliminate the delay.
@@BMR3 Can you give me the part number for the correct ICS connector? Seems there are a few and the descriptions seem off. Thanks for help
@@BMR3 Oh and yeah I sent me 432pt back but the retailer didn't have any others so I'm waiting for the backorder to be filled. Seems like it could be awhile since Kyosho hasn't been stocking anywhere much lately.
Sorry for the late reply, this is the one you want: www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-ICS-USB-Adapter-HS-High-Speed_p_46224.html
It’s the same as the MR-03 ICS link, only difference is the software that you need to download. Just make sure you have the ma-030 file & you are good to go.
BMR 3 no problem and thanks. I ordered one. Hoping it fixes my reverse issues until I can get another 432pt.
Hi, I have a miniZ ma010 RTR . When it turn on it makes noise even not throttle it. And for reverse, sometimes it's not working. Anyone knows what's wrong with it or is it faulty?
Hi BMR, Is there any benefit to having aluminum wheels on a AWD drifting MA-020? Or is it purely aesthetic? Thanks!
Ehhhh yes & no. Aluminum wheels are truer & have less vibrations since they are more uniform. But in a mini-z AWD that dosent make a noticeable difference, it’s more a concern for RWD drift chassis.
One thing is aluminum rims are heavier then plastic, so they roll longer due to more momentum.
Hope this helps, have a happy Friday buddy!
@@BMR3 Thank you sir. I'm new to mini-z and I love all your videos!
@@ZippoMan2005 thank you for the support brother & im happy to help! 😸 good luck with this new venture & let me know if you have any further questions
@@BMR3 I ordered motor holder MDW007-03 (Kyosho MDW007-03 Aluminum Motor Holder Set #3 MINI-Z AWD). They are labeled A3 and B3. Is this the correct set for a stock 90mm MA-020 or should I be using A1 / B1? Thank you !
@@BMR3 Hoping you can help. MA-020. I replaced the motor with an XSpeed V. I reassembled, powered everything on and pulled accelerator on the remote. Nothing happened. After a few seconds, I saw some smoke coming from motor area. I removed the xspeed and reinstalled the original motor. The car powers on, I can move the wheels side to side, but the motor only works in reverse. Nothing happens when I try to go forward. Did I fry the receiver board?
Hey bmr3 I have a issue with my rear spur gear grinding and clicking and I’ve had to change it to the lowest speed setting and it’s still grinding how do you suggest I would fix this as well as what parts would I actually need to bring the standard suspension to a dws suspension
Thank you :)
Will the r32 gtr bodys fit a ma020 with DWS rear suspension?
Yep it will work no problem
Do you use brushless motors?
Yep in my EVO chassis I use the 4100kv Speedhouse motor
Can you add a brushless motor to the ma020 body?
ONLY if you have a MA-020VE, the FHS & FHSS boards cant handle it.
@@BMR3 Thanks for this info... almost ordered the green one in your video, Xspeed 45. Lol. Mine is a standard MA-020.
Hey BMR when you converted the ma 030 evo to Dws from stock .. do you need to change drive shaft?
I never changed it over since I’m runnin 94mm but the DWD requires 98mm to be used with the evo
But no you wouldn’t need to change the drive shaft of the wheel bases remains the same.
@@BMR3 so I've I'm understand right .. you just add extention blocks then dws with bigger gear to reach and it will be 98mm?
@@maxbuckley9762 nah you don’t need extension blocks for the EVO since it has 3 mounting positions in the rear, one for 90mm, 94mm & finally 98mm.
Changing the spur gear & drive shaft are only required if your changing the wheel bases. It comes stock at 98mm
Have you upgraded to the ceramic bearing on you mr-03? I did yesterday and see no performance improvements lol
I upgraded the AWD to ceramic bearing & I noticed the wheels spin a tiny bit more freely, but no noticeable difference while driving. I was super disappointed lol
I’ll make a video soon talking about my experience with ceramics
@@BMR3 yes please do. I soaked them before installing hoping my lap times would drop and really didn't see it
@@BMR3 and please talk about what battery charger you use please
Tonyw2394 what brand did you get? I know the Acer bearings require a bit of a break in period before they become super smooth, I know it sounds backwards for ceramics but I have seen a lot of people saying this.
I use the mini-z brand charger but I don’t recommend it. I want to get a new charger soon & I’ll make a video about that once I do.
Tonyw2394 also, the ceramic bearings were larger then stock & it threw off my rim offset.
So the carbon fiber is no lighter or stronger than the factory parts?
lighter? no not really.
Stronger? yes but you still need to be very carful since drooping the chassis will most likely break the carbon fiber.
@@BMR3 ahh, I just thought that was the whole point of carbon fiber in general. But yeah being such a small part I can see it being fragile
@@jpyt7182 Yeah stuff like carbon & aluminum is more for bling & showing off then anything else at this scale.
@@BMR3 oh ok. Thanks for the info 👍👍
great video
Thanks buddy, hope your having a wonderful Friday!
Thanks BMR it was a lose wire
ricky bobby awesome! I’m glad we could sort the issue so quickly ;)
Yea dude thanks now I just Gota learn to solder
Keep up the vids !
ricky bobby you might be able to get lucky and just reuse the existing solder. I had a motor wire pop off & I was able to reheat the exisiting solder blob & simply drop the wire back in.
I’m on the same boat as you, I don’t know how to solder but I was able to get the repair done. Good luck brother, let me know how it goes!
were should i go to buy these parts
Hey I’ve found some analog mini Z cars and I would like to convert them to a digital system. These cars have color coded crystals are there upgrades for this conversion if so where could I purchase them
Yeah you can covert them no problem man, all you need is a few of these: www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-RC-Unit-Set-MA020RA-45_p_46291.html
@@BMR3 cool thank you for the info is there a special transmitter that will bind with this unit
That’s the FHS receiver I believe but I’m not 100% sure. You can tell the frequency by the color of the antenna but I’m at work & can’t look it up.
@@jameswalton9299 happy to help brother!
@@BMR3 ok thanks I appreciate your help 👍🏾
Where’d you get your parts? Especially those tires with the writing...
DS Racing is the brand of the tires, I have a video dedicated to them & in that video is the email address to reach them directly. It’s the quickest & by far cheapest way to get these tires since you avoid mark up by buying direct.
So the weight makes no difference?
Yup, the difference is so minuscule that’s it’s unnoticeable. In my Eagle racing video & in one of the MPower videos I weighted out the parts & was shocked at how small the difference was. For MPower I believe it only add about 2-3g totals for all that aluminum
Are MA020 parts compatible with MA030 Evo?
Yep, the differentials, front suspension arms, camber knuckles & the full rear end is compatible
if your going to upgrade anything ALWAYS buy the upgrades than work from there. never buy stock. even the the controller. you will have nothing but a box of stock parts or just completely abandon it. lol i have nothing but boxes of stock complete rc's and full upgrades that i use all the time. BUT if you just want to bash than buy the stock.
Im curious how people can put a brushless motor in mini z
Only if you have a VE board, it’s the only one that can handle brushless motors.
Wonderful profile pic BTW!! I love Saitama!
It would be amazing you you do a tutorial on how to install brushless motor on mini z
"Speed holes. Make the car go faster."
Lol anything to make it lighter & go faster 😂 structural integrity be famed! Lol 😹
@@BMR3 My weight reduction kit? Not having a girlfriend. Emptiness in more ways than one.
1337W422102 bahahah oh shit man that was brutal...
@@Number-6 . My friend has a civic, instead of doing anything to the interior, he went full carbon .
You sound like JinsoulSilver , are you ? 😎
What’s the blue thing the middle car is sitting on?
It’s a foam car stand, here’s a quick video talking about it ;) ua-cam.com/video/Kk4O4K840Xg/v-deo.html
BMR 3 Thank you
ReRunns Place anytime man, I’m happy to help!
BMR 3 Good deal. I used to race XMods, many years ago, but got out of it for other interests. I’ve been contemplating getting back into mini z or 1/10 scale drifting. Still pretty undecided.
ReRunns Place depends on your budget & if you already have some equipment, but I would suggest looking into the Atomic DRZ V2. They are leaps & bounds better then a mini-z & only about 1/3 more expensive (if you already have a receiver/transponder)
what versions do you have?
Ma-020 fhs
Ma-020 FHSS
Ma-030 Evo
MR-03 FHSS
MR-03 Evo
Plus a handful of RWD drift chassis
@@BMR3 nice, what chassi do you recomend?
@@TiagoDeOliveiraHH it depends on what your trying to do, race or drift? Do you have any experience building a RC car?
@@BMR3 drift, I dont have any experience With rc cars
@@TiagoDeOliveiraHH ok I just needed a little info to make a good recommendation. I highly recommend the ma-020 FHSS with the 94mm wheel base: www.rcm8.net/collections/cars-rtr/products/kyosho-miniz-awd-calconic-skyline-gt-r-r32-32618cs?sca_ref=312304.oK4xOMQWY0&sca_source=UA-cam
94mm is pretty stable & the ma-020 come preassembled so all you need are battery’s to start drifting, plus the one I linked has the newest version of FHSS electronics. Let me know if you have any further questions man
This is mini z, not cheap WL Toy, making your car cool and look hot is as important as making the car .01 sec faster on the track, just saying