I have a 96 Bronco 351w and had a 94 F250 also with the Windsor. The best mod you can do are the heads. The stock heads are very restricted. Open up the air flow with better heads. Install a hot ignition. I've used MSD, Motorsport plug wires and iridium plugs with good results. Consider a larger throttle body and open up the exhaust. I don't care for loud headers, but exhaust mods give some of the biggest results. My two cents.
Nice truck man. I have an 89 F-250 with a 351W and C6 automatic. It hasn't ran in about 4 or 5 years, but I am about to fix it back up. It has 384,000 miles on it, never been rebuilt or had transmission rebuilt. It's got huge gears in the rear end, so it will pull anything but a full tank of gas. haha. We used it to pull down huge barns and pull people out of ditches. We parked it because it started getting about 4 miles to the gallon.
In all honesty I use to obsess over my vehicle, adding things and modifying for the mental thrill of it. I outgrew that and wish I had used more of my common sense and saved the money and kept it fun but also practical. Life is too short, it's best to keep ahead of the curve and predict your future wants and needs and focus some on that. Life will be easier I promise.
We used to have a 1997 F250 Super Duty, and we always had to order parts for a 1996, or we would get the wrong parts due to changes in 1997. The SD and HD were the last of the best body styles of the ford trucks.
@@Yophillips3272 nope, it was a 1997, but had the '96 body style and 5.8l engine. It was the Super Duty. If I remember right, they had leftover HD and SD 250's and F350+ that were labeled as 1997. Something like that
@@Yophillips3272 Ah, my bad. The changeover year was in 1997 to the rounded f series trucks except the F250 SD/HD, F350+ that they had leftover. Even though it's a 1997, there can be mix ups, and get the parts for the next gen trucks. So, we'd order for a 1996 instead to avoid getting the next gen truck parts. F150 and base F250 from what I understand changed over, but the others were leftovers and branded 1997.
I tried your idea of an adjustable air bleed for the map sensor. But I ran a vacuum hose into the cab and installed a lawn sprinkler valve and mounted it on the dash. Now I can make adjustments on the fly!
Nice truck, eventually throw a new bed on it but they do make a aluminum underdrive pulley kit for it from BBC and also get you some long tube headers (stainless ebay - $142) and you'll notice some good games with those two together, maybe later a fat cam and some lightweight trik flo heads! Yum🍺👍
Dude...this is a pretty good vid...I have a 91w/5.8 5 speed w/3.55's which is older than yours but its got an MSD6 box,,MSD Blaster coil,,Accel ePROM CHIP #35369 plus a jet performance module #89109 and am running a true dual exhaust w/o cat or mufflers ,,,,Just straightpipes with baffle tips but still retain the o2 sensor.......Another mod includes the IAT sensor mod where the IAT sensor is bypassed with a resistor to give the engine a richer fuel to air mix in my engine...Other mods include turning the air injection pump into a vacuum pump to suck the crankcase heat and pressure from the engine and inject it into the air instead of back through my intake...I also removed the hotwater line going into my throttle body to give the engine a cooler denser air mix aswell as done the EGR block of by sandwiching a piece of 1/16" thick aluminum in between EGR and intake to keep the exhaust gasses from entering the intake.....Its running better than 14's in the quarter all day on the stock throttle body and intake.....Seeings you have a 97 you can give that badboy some more perf with a flashpak tuner tool alot easier you do know.....right?......
I never heard of a flashpak tuner, what does it do? I live in winter climates so I wouldn't do the heater line to throttle body mod, it keeps the throttle from freezing. You can also control the fuel mixture by putting a valve on the airline to the MAP sensor, I did have it sucking more fuel, and popping pretty good on downshifts but the power added was little compared to the fuel consumption. I thought about making vacuum in the crankcase too, but I was afraid it would ruin my seals. If you like this video check out my new one in the field.
Love 351 Windsors!! (AKA 5.8) Lot's of ways to wake up these old truck motors. The roller cam motors were only made for like 4 years in the mid 90's and they are still a best kept secret it seems. No I don't work for this magazine. lol I am posting it here as just one reference for fellow Ford freaks who want to wake up a sleepy low compression 5.8/351 Truck motor: www.hotrod.com/articles/build-a-505hp-ford-351-windsor/
When adjusting timing on a 1996 and later ford, OBDII, you need to unplug the SPOUT connecttor FIRST before moving the distributor...It's a small grey, inline plug, usually need the firewall/brak booster and fender.. google it!! Otherwise the computer stes it right back to where it was...
Thanks I have almost the exact same truck! I will be doing similar things to mine this summer. I am going to need to beef up my motor for farmwork and towing/hauling.
I used a 5.0 intake tee, and tb hoses, and mounted an open cone to the end of the tee. The cone sits on top of the alternator. Yes, it's a WAI, but will give you some top-end gain, and slightly better gas mileage (and faster warmup). I believe the tee opening is 3.5" but I don't recall. Either way, I noticed a difference on mine.
Ya, the stock air box is restrictive. I even considered putting pod filters on each intake like on a motorcycle before I got my K&N. It would be the loudest set up and take the least space, but those intakes are so close together you would have to modify or smash the two filters together.
They do pretty good, It will get dirty faster, but I wouldn't worry about it unless your on dirt roads all the time. You can also get these things called pre-filters which are good blocking large particles. They are kind of like a sock. They keep your cone filter clean a lot longer, plus a prefilter is easier to clean.
The only thing hard about it is I had all the air injection BS in the way. On the 5.0 that's not there so it will be a lot easier for you. It also gives you a chance to look at your injectors. I had one that was about 80% gummed up at the tip. The injectors just slide in and out, so they remove easy, the fuel rail hold them it. You'll need fuel line separator tool for the two fuel lines, which are round plastic things that cost like $10 for a set. also lock washer and lock tight intake bolts.
Hello....first of all your video was great but I do have a question. I'm pretty sure that this year of engine for Ford was Speed Density (SD).......by changing the intake/airbox did you have any issues from the ECM? It seems everything I read indicates you have to be careful when modifying these concerning airflow/vacuum.
No everything is fine, all you have to worry about is CAMshaft with a lobe separating angle of less than 114. Speed Density measures the air pressure, in our case vacuum being a NA engine, in the intake manifold. Less vacuum = more air, so the computer then gives more fuel. With bolt on mods the vacuum lowers at wide open throttle compared to stock. This is also why vacuum leaks are really bad on this setup because it can make your engine run rich on fuel.
We have a 1993 F250 4x4 lifted w 35's w same 5.8. 240,000 miles and slower than molasses. Have had it to the mechanic a few times w no improvement. It won't even get out of it's own way! :( Going to have hubby try a few of these simple things and see if it improves. He's doing the cold air intake today and will have him look into shortening that cable. And as for all the assholes saying don't spend your money...IDK why they're worried about it. It' YOUR truck & YOUR money. TY for the video.
+Kim Cavanagh Too bad your truck isn't performing so good. Maybe there is a problem being over looked. Maybe those big tires are robbing a lot of power. I like the stock size for this truck: 235/85/16. I think it is a good balance between height (32 inches), mud and snow traction and also dry pavement handling.
I have the K & N now, I've gotta make a video on it because out of the box the ID to throttle body is way undersized due to injection molding being way to thick there. I had to use a 2 and 1/8ths hole saw to bore it out to match and then polish it back out. Also the intake was much quieter with the all plastic intake. I only bought it so I could run a single nozzle wet nitrous system in the future, and it looks way better than the twin tube.
Nice, I want a MAF conversion and cam also. I have not done that though. The MAF conversion should give better MPG because it fires the fuel injectors sequentially instead of using bank fire that the SD set up uses.
@@azone123465 it fixed my up and down idel that I was having with the speed density system due to the can. But my mpg dropped noticeably. I can only figure its due to the cam. Im happy with it. It makes room for future upgrades and it was easily installed.
I just bought the exact same thing (mine is an XL though, I wish it had a tach like yours) '97 RCLB 2wd 5.8L 5spd 3.55 open diff. Why didn't you delete all the emissions stuff, delete the cat and run dual pipes? Since these have OBD II can they be ecu tuned on a dyno? You considered cam and headers? I was thinking about trying $400 remaned GT40P heads or ebay special 195cc aluminum heads that go for $700 complete. I was thinking about trying a 228/232 114 cam like Richard Holdner used in his big bang 351w as well. I am a lot more familiar with LS stuff, my other truck is a 2003 6L Silverado 2500 and I have a 2004 GTO 6spd. I got the F250 yesterday, it has 219,xxx miles and I paid $2300 for it. It needs to be cleaned up but, it is way better mechanically than I expected it would be, I drove it home 3.5hrs with no issues, except the headlights get really bright when the rpms are up, maybe a voltage regulator? What rpms does your truck show when it hits the governor? Mine reads around 78mph in 3rd and I figured 4750 using a gearing calculator with 3.55s and stock 235/85 16s, it has 265/75 16s on it which are nearly the same overall diameter. I am giving you a sub and I would like to start making UA-cam videos again in the vein of Zip Ties and Bias plies, Vice Grip Garage, DeBoss, Uncle Tony and the Roadkill family. Your build has given me some good ideas to build on and the truck definitely has some poke. Thanks for sharing.
Great video man. I have the same set up on my 89 but the old owner had done a maf conversion with a 95 mustang ecm and now it has parasitic draws. Im swapping to stock wiring and ecm. How does it run with the original vacuum set up without all the needles mods you did? Lean Or normal?
@@azone123465 yeah the previous owner did, but he had some problems wiring in the computer because there are extra pins and connections that need to be added in order for it to work properly. He did a pretty bad hack job trying to wire that in into the original 89 harness and now it has parasitic draws plus it never really ran good and all that.. I just want to make the thing run again. I found an unmolested original SD harness that im swapping back to and was wondering how the mods will behave with factory vacuum SD set up
just bought a 1988 f.250 with a 5.8l Windsor, 2 wd on gasoline. but it has a utility bed on it,which is one the reasons i bought it. im sure it weighs alot more plus tools and equipment. are there any good ideas for my trucks performance? i already replaced fuel pump,starter and now my harmonic balancer seperated and im replacing it today. thanks
I have a 4x4 XLT with the same engine. I want to rebuild it essentially from the ground up, starting with the motor. I really want to get rid of extra stuff in the engine bay just for simplicity and I'd like to know if you have any ideas or tips. Any way to get rid of the air injection system and vacuum lines?
I have a 97 f250 HD 4x4 with essentially the same engine. You're running stock exhaust manifolds? And a roller cam? The pipe off off the cat to the side is a great mod too.
1994 and above is factory roller cam. I have some shorty headers to put on when I have a chance, I am going to remove my air injection when I put them on because they crack from the extra heat. Also I want to tuck my exhaust up close to the body. It hangs way to low stock.
I've assumed that, but there's so much mixed info out there. Have you changed the cam or looked at the block valley? Looking at a 97 f250 with 351W, so was trying to figure it out. Thanks!
Lookin at one of these for $2500 on CL...How often do you fill the tank? High school student making a bit more than minimum wage and my Maxima is legitimately falling apart! Thanks!
I am assuming all if not most EFI 351W 5.8L's are the same. Im doing a build myself on my 97 F250 and i found the exact intake set up as you but the website is telling me the ending year these will fit is 96.
+Allan Dunday It is the same intake. A lot of manufactures only recognize the 5.8 up to 1996. A lot of times I'll buy 96 parts, even when mine is a 1997. It is just because of a model generation transition. If you put the Edelbrock intake on make sure to plug any unused vacuum lines. Also RTV both sides the each lower intake manifold gasket covering the the face in a thin layer.
quick question I was wondering on the cold air intake how does it hold up to dirt roads being that your air filters are out there in the open? I have been wondering bout this and is only thing keeping me from doing a cold air intake.. of course you can blow the dust out with compressed air or something just wondering how they hold up thanks
I have the same truck, but automatic. 97 F-250HD. I'm looking to start upgrading it, do you have any suggestions? I want to upgrade pretty much everything, just not sure where to start.
I noticed on mine the vac advance was locked with a plate that says octane 0. Would it be possible to use a vac advance model with efi? I've only worked with carbs in the past.
There are many ways to remove the air injection, search of it on the web you'll get lots of forum posts. There are pros and cons, like legality. I would like to remove it too, but I won't unless it fails.
Lsd is stock in the 10.5" rear end. Check the axle code on the door jam to verify. You may need new fluid. Someone may have put the wrong stuff in. I believe you need 70-140 WITH friction modifier (FOR LSD engagement.)
1993 F250 351W XL. Any way I could get some help figuring out where this last wire goes? Runs off the main wiring harness (same harness as the injectors, drivers side) everything is plugged in except this last wire and I can not find where it goes. Injectors, and everything on the front I'd plugged in. The wire not plugged in is about 8-10" long and has a tapered side to it. The plug itself is rectangular but the portion that goes into the female end is tapered. If anyone can help it would be extremely appreciated.
There is coolant sensor on the intake, and air temp sensor and also some other sensor, (not sure what for) but it connects on a stud almost like a spark plug wire. The coolant sensor and air temp sensor should be hard to miss. The throttle body has an AIC plug (Driver side of throttle body), and a TPS plug (Bottom of throttle body). Also, there is a plug on the EGR (Passenger side of plenum) and an EVAP plug which looks like a small canister by the throttle body. The distributor should also have a plug to it as well. What was your project by the way?
There are only a couple bolts in the back hard to get to. Other than that it's pretty easy. You can actually leave your throttle body and egr connected to the intake manifold if really want. The egr will pull out of the exhaust manifold.
Azone123465 that's what I was thinking. I have some leaking injectors on both sides and new that pass side bank was going to be a bit of a hassle! Thanks for the insight I appreciate it!
I have this same set up on my 95 f350 5.8 but ever since I did this my egr valve wants to open up on idle not all the time I can go days with no problem did you ever have this happen?
It is a coolant line, it is there to prevent the throttle body from freezing, it is probably not really necessary and robs some power because of the extra heat, but I left it on because our winters can get cold and I figured it is better safe than sorry.
Not really, OEM is fine but economy aftermarket replacement is crap reliability wise. Get motorcraft plugs. Get OEM wires or Ford Racing wires, Use OEM cap or MSD.
i have 1992 f150 5.0 v8 and i have the bbk 56mm and i have supercomp hooker heddes and flowmaster 40s with k&N, plush hp chip, with msd coil and mallery hot box. so how hard was it to put on the edelbrock intake
I've got a 93 with a 5.0 out of a mustang, a Holley systemax lower(ported factory truck upper), proheader shorties, aftermarket 4 spd automatic transmission, spartan locker, 3.55 gears, come cams 255h camshaft, and a magnaflow magnapack.
1 have a 1989 ford E250 with the same engine. Because it's a van it has far less space available in the engine compartment. I REALLY want extra power out of my engine because 200hp is just WAY too low
There are lots of things you can do with a 351W / 5.8 Ford engine even inside a van. Lots of info out there. Here's just one article: www.hotrod.com/articles/build-a-505hp-ford-351-windsor/
MPG hasn't changed noticeably since the mods... Normal driving 15-17 MPG highway, around 13 city. I can get maybe 18 MPG if I baby it and super short shift. Towing about 8000# on highway at 60 MPH : around 13 MPG Towing about 8000# on highway at 75 MPH : around 9-10 MPG BTW, I track my miles and gasoline gallons bought all the time out of habit. (Lets you know if something has changed that you may not have realized otherwise.)
I have since got rid of that and went to 24 pound injectors with better results. The same ones the older mustangs used, you can get a set of 8 remanufactured off ebay for less than $100 usually.
Dropped right in with better response with my current setup. It rumbles and pops a little on engine braking but sounds good, not obnoxious. I don't know how well it would work with a 100% stock setup, it may be fine. I am going to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and taper the pressure down some only because the idle is a hair, and only a hair rough from being a little rich. I'll back off the pressure until the idle smooths out to 100% normal, but as it is it's not even really noticeable unless you know the engine.
That's not true, the CPU sees the difference in vacuum in the intake manifold and gives more fuel according to its preset table. My quarter mile went down from 16.5sec @85 to 15.8sec @90, I never have went back since I got my trac bars. I was really slow off the line to avoid wheel hop, so I would not be surprised if I could hit 15.3sec or so.
I made a steel plate to block it off. I used a stock EGR gasket on both sides. The computer doesn't even know it is blocked. Also, when I took my intake off for the swap it looked like the egr gasses were traveling mostly to one cylinder because there was a soot trail to it.
GT40 would be the best bang for the buck. I have been trying to justify purchasing a used set off eBay for a while now. They go for $500-700, it is supposed to be an instant 30-40hp over stock. For new heads, Victor Jrs look to be the best, just guessing but they probably adding 50 hp or more. I've looked this up a million times but I forgot all the details.
Can you link me to the most reliable heads while still getting lots of power. Also I don't want to have to do any mods to engine ( such as swapping pistons and such) Those victor jr's look quite nice but I do not have much experience. thanks
+Jim McDaniels your a douche! im positive that there are alot more irresponsible drivers out there than anyone doing any of these upgrades on a f250.. its just straight up cool to do
Take some caramel to your aunt, don't forget the tomatoes and potatoes. Your going to have to wash your hands first because they look extraordinarily dirty.
The engine is notoriously underrated by Ford. It is 240HP stock. I also have an Edelbrock performer intake. Yes it may not be 300 but it is not far off.
@@azone123465 if you're talking around 270 flywheel that makes more sense I've seen these motors with gt40s and cammed that are lucky to make 300 to the ground
I have had the cat off when the studs rusted, its seems to throw off the O2 sensor and it losses major HP with out the cat. I am sure there is a work around but I don't know of it right off hand. Plus it sounds like trash with out the cat.
Azone123465 I have a 1996 Bronco with the 351w. If you do without the cat you will gain a little more power. It's the o2 sensor that's reducing power when the cat is taken off because the sensors is after the cat. You have to get an o2 sensor delete kit to get around that problem. I did it to mine and have increased power without a check engine light.
Seems to me you are spending money to messing up a nice stock vehicle that engineers designed just right. Save your money for retirement or a house purchase or some other thing that will serve you much better.
+Matt Leonard I have my egr blocked (it doesn't know the difference.) I thought about removing or disabling the air injection and adding headers but I would need a matching oxygen sensor I would think. Also, I like the idea of the cast manifolds never cracking, I have had them red hot several times.
its good that you have your egr blocked off. id take the cat out and put on a magnaflow muffler. headers are a great mod, long tubes for low end, shorties for top end. you shouldnt be doing anything that makes your manifold glow. if you get the right headers made specifically for your engine than your stock o2 sensor(s) will switch right over
yea, I am talking about removing the air injection. The whole point of it is to add oxygen to the exhaust to burn left over fuel until the cat heats up. Anyway, removing that extra oxygen should throw off the readings of the O2 sensor, and that sensor is used to help with A/F ratios.
Also check out my video of WOT in a field, I do this about once a year, no harm done yet. It's called truck melt down or something, I get the manifold red there, it takes about 20 minutes of almost non stop WOT. Other vehicles that do this to will make there headers glow also, seen it in person. The manifold of header has no time to cool down because of almost no part throttle, and the cooling system only cools the headers off indirectly through the heads.
I took all air pollution bullshit off you have to reroute your fan belt but it will free up some power if you put on some headers I did headers on mine straight to some cherry bombs no cats on it I punched my cats out that way they look like they're still on there
It is about 1000RPM, I do not know the exact degree. Place a mark before you move it, I do not recommend moving it too much as it may make it harder to start (3 millimeters). The rotor turns CCW, so twist the distributor CW to advance.
I have never had the temperature past half on my coolant gauge even when working the motor 100% for extended periods, like mudding and hauling trailers. I think it is because this it uses the same radiator as the 7.3 which makes a lot more heat (and less horsepower).
No disrespect. But they call it a "Cold air intake" for a reason. The way u have ur air filters sitting. There sucking up hot air off the motor. You need to move them to the outside of the engine bay.
Ray Funchess I have a K&N setup now, check out the video. Plus at that time, as I explained in a comment earlier, it was still better even though it was not a true cold air intake. Restriction was greatly reduced, and some more power was noticeable. Consider this, for every 10 degrees F hotter your supposed to loose 1% HP. So maybe even if it is 10 to 30 degrees F hotter that's about 1 to 3% power lose. But if the VOLUME of air being ingested by your engine increases by greater than 3% that will be a net gain. Also the engine compartment is pretty open and the grill is pretty big so at speed I bet the air in those locations is not that much hotter than ambient.
I have a 96 Bronco 351w and had a 94 F250 also with the Windsor. The best mod you can do are the heads. The stock heads are very restricted. Open up the air flow with better heads. Install a hot ignition. I've used MSD, Motorsport plug wires and iridium plugs with good results. Consider a larger throttle body and open up the exhaust. I don't care for loud headers, but exhaust mods give some of the biggest results. My two cents.
I just put traction bars on this truck, HUGE difference, new video coming soon.
Nice truck man. I have an 89 F-250 with a 351W and C6 automatic. It hasn't ran in about 4 or 5 years, but I am about to fix it back up. It has 384,000 miles on it, never been rebuilt or had transmission rebuilt. It's got huge gears in the rear end, so it will pull anything but a full tank of gas. haha. We used it to pull down huge barns and pull people out of ditches. We parked it because it started getting about 4 miles to the gallon.
very interesting. Thanks for posting. i just picked up a 95 f150 with 351
Nowell Holmes 8127996306@.com tries to hit but won't run
In all honesty I use to obsess over my vehicle, adding things and modifying for the mental thrill of it.
I outgrew that and wish I had used more of my common sense and saved the money and kept it fun but also practical.
Life is too short, it's best to keep ahead of the curve and predict your future wants and needs and focus some on that.
Life will be easier I promise.
Jim McDaniels I have also made more money on this video than the mods cost themselves thanks to UA-cam so your point is invalid.
We used to have a 1997 F250 Super Duty, and we always had to order parts for a 1996, or we would get the wrong parts due to changes in 1997. The SD and HD were the last of the best body styles of the ford trucks.
I always order 96 parts also, lol.Love my truck man.
1997 is when they switched to 4.6, 5.4 engines big difference lol
@@Yophillips3272 nope, it was a 1997, but had the '96 body style and 5.8l engine. It was the Super Duty. If I remember right, they had leftover HD and SD 250's and F350+ that were labeled as 1997. Something like that
@@payton5759 I know, I was just saying why the parts were wrong.
@@Yophillips3272 Ah, my bad. The changeover year was in 1997 to the rounded f series trucks except the F250 SD/HD, F350+ that they had leftover. Even though it's a 1997, there can be mix ups, and get the parts for the next gen trucks. So, we'd order for a 1996 instead to avoid getting the next gen truck parts. F150 and base F250 from what I understand changed over, but the others were leftovers and branded 1997.
I tried your idea of an adjustable air bleed for the map sensor. But I ran a vacuum hose into the cab and installed a lawn sprinkler valve and mounted it on the dash. Now I can make adjustments on the fly!
Nice truck, eventually throw a new bed on it but they do make a aluminum underdrive pulley kit for it from BBC and also get you some long tube headers (stainless ebay - $142) and you'll notice some good games with those two together, maybe later a fat cam and some lightweight trik flo heads! Yum🍺👍
Dude...this is a pretty good vid...I have a 91w/5.8 5 speed w/3.55's which is older than yours but its got an MSD6 box,,MSD Blaster coil,,Accel ePROM CHIP #35369 plus a jet performance module #89109 and am running a true dual exhaust w/o cat or mufflers ,,,,Just straightpipes with baffle tips but still retain the o2 sensor.......Another mod includes the IAT sensor mod where the IAT sensor is bypassed with a resistor to give the engine a richer fuel to air mix in my engine...Other mods include turning the air injection pump into a vacuum pump to suck the crankcase heat and pressure from the engine and inject it into the air instead of back through my intake...I also removed the hotwater line going into my throttle body to give the engine a cooler denser air mix aswell as done the EGR block of by sandwiching a piece of 1/16" thick aluminum in between EGR and intake to keep the exhaust gasses from entering the intake.....Its running better than 14's in the quarter all day on the stock throttle body and intake.....Seeings you have a 97 you can give that badboy some more perf with a flashpak tuner tool alot easier you do know.....right?......
I never heard of a flashpak tuner, what does it do? I live in winter climates so I wouldn't do the heater line to throttle body mod, it keeps the throttle from freezing. You can also control the fuel mixture by putting a valve on the airline to the MAP sensor, I did have it sucking more fuel, and popping pretty good on downshifts but the power added was little compared to the fuel consumption. I thought about making vacuum in the crankcase too, but I was afraid it would ruin my seals. If you like this video check out my new one in the field.
Buy the dual air filter kit for about $45 on ebay. look up ford 5.8 air intake. The bronco version works the same.
Nice mods bro sounds great runs nice and it’s a Ford nice man thanks helps me a lot w what to do w mine
Thanks, No problem.
351w kick ass. nice video cool mods
Love 351 Windsors!! (AKA 5.8) Lot's of ways to wake up these old truck motors. The roller cam motors were only made for like 4 years in the mid 90's and they are still a best kept secret it seems. No I don't work for this magazine. lol I am posting it here as just one reference for fellow Ford freaks who want to wake up a sleepy low compression 5.8/351 Truck motor: www.hotrod.com/articles/build-a-505hp-ford-351-windsor/
Thank you now I know where to start on my 89 250
Have fun!
When adjusting timing on a 1996 and later ford, OBDII, you need to unplug the SPOUT connecttor FIRST before moving the distributor...It's a small grey, inline plug, usually need the firewall/brak booster and fender.. google it!! Otherwise the computer stes it right back to where it was...
Yup and if you want to retard the time just unplug it like you said
Thanks I have almost the exact same truck! I will be doing similar things to mine this summer. I am going to need to beef up my motor for farmwork and towing/hauling.
I used a 5.0 intake tee, and tb hoses, and mounted an open cone to the end of the tee. The cone sits on top of the alternator. Yes, it's a WAI, but will give you some top-end gain, and slightly better gas mileage (and faster warmup). I believe the tee opening is 3.5" but I don't recall. Either way, I noticed a difference on mine.
Ya, the stock air box is restrictive. I even considered putting pod filters on each intake like on a motorcycle before I got my K&N. It would be the loudest set up and take the least space, but those intakes are so close together you would have to modify or smash the two filters together.
They do pretty good, It will get dirty faster, but I wouldn't worry about it unless your on dirt roads all the time. You can also get these things called pre-filters which are good blocking large particles. They are kind of like a sock. They keep your cone filter clean a lot longer, plus a prefilter is easier to clean.
I have not found one. Buy the 2nd alternator and take your truck to a good machine shop and they could make you a bracket for $200 or 300 no problem.
The only thing hard about it is I had all the air injection BS in the way. On the 5.0 that's not there so it will be a lot easier for you. It also gives you a chance to look at your injectors. I had one that was about 80% gummed up at the tip. The injectors just slide in and out, so they remove easy, the fuel rail hold them it. You'll need fuel line separator tool for the two fuel lines, which are round plastic things that cost like $10 for a set. also lock washer and lock tight intake bolts.
Hello....first of all your video was great but I do have a question. I'm pretty sure that this year of engine for Ford was Speed Density (SD).......by changing the intake/airbox did you have any issues from the ECM? It seems everything I read indicates you have to be careful when modifying these concerning airflow/vacuum.
No everything is fine, all you have to worry about is CAMshaft with a lobe separating angle of less than 114. Speed Density measures the air pressure, in our case vacuum being a NA engine, in the intake manifold. Less vacuum = more air, so the computer then gives more fuel. With bolt on mods the vacuum lowers at wide open throttle compared to stock. This is also why vacuum leaks are really bad on this setup because it can make your engine run rich on fuel.
Great question
We have a 1993 F250 4x4 lifted w 35's w same 5.8. 240,000 miles and slower than molasses. Have had it to the mechanic a few times w no improvement. It won't even get out of it's own way! :( Going to have hubby try a few of these simple things and see if it improves. He's doing the cold air intake today and will have him look into shortening that cable. And as for all the assholes saying don't spend your money...IDK why they're worried about it. It' YOUR truck & YOUR money. TY for the video.
+Kim Cavanagh Too bad your truck isn't performing so good. Maybe there is a problem being over looked. Maybe those big tires are robbing a lot of power. I like the stock size for this truck: 235/85/16. I think it is a good balance between height (32 inches), mud and snow traction and also dry pavement handling.
So the exhaust setup is just a muffler delete? Everything else is stock?
I have the K & N now, I've gotta make a video on it because out of the box the ID to throttle body is way undersized due to injection molding being way to thick there. I had to use a 2 and 1/8ths hole saw to bore it out to match and then polish it back out. Also the intake was much quieter with the all plastic intake. I only bought it so I could run a single nozzle wet nitrous system in the future, and it looks way better than the twin tube.
I got the same truck but white and I love it it's still stock right now but I just got it as my first truck but I wanna model it
Nice mods man, ive looking for stuff to do to my truck! Your video helped out alot, i will doing the same thing now
I want to do the same intake and thottle body to my 95 4x4 351W. Its was rebuilt last year with a .477 lift cam and MAF conversion .
Nice, I want a MAF conversion and cam also. I have not done that though. The MAF conversion should give better MPG because it fires the fuel injectors sequentially instead of using bank fire that the SD set up uses.
@@azone123465 it fixed my up and down idel that I was having with the speed density system due to the can. But my mpg dropped noticeably. I can only figure its due to the cam. Im happy with it. It makes room for future upgrades and it was easily installed.
I just bought the exact same thing (mine is an XL though, I wish it had a tach like yours) '97 RCLB 2wd 5.8L 5spd 3.55 open diff. Why didn't you delete all the emissions stuff, delete the cat and run dual pipes? Since these have OBD II can they be ecu tuned on a dyno? You considered cam and headers? I was thinking about trying $400 remaned GT40P heads or ebay special 195cc aluminum heads that go for $700 complete. I was thinking about trying a 228/232 114 cam like Richard Holdner used in his big bang 351w as well. I am a lot more familiar with LS stuff, my other truck is a 2003 6L Silverado 2500 and I have a 2004 GTO 6spd. I got the F250 yesterday, it has 219,xxx miles and I paid $2300 for it. It needs to be cleaned up but, it is way better mechanically than I expected it would be, I drove it home 3.5hrs with no issues, except the headlights get really bright when the rpms are up, maybe a voltage regulator? What rpms does your truck show when it hits the governor? Mine reads around 78mph in 3rd and I figured 4750 using a gearing calculator with 3.55s and stock 235/85 16s, it has 265/75 16s on it which are nearly the same overall diameter. I am giving you a sub and I would like to start making UA-cam videos again in the vein of Zip Ties and Bias plies, Vice Grip Garage, DeBoss, Uncle Tony and the Roadkill family. Your build has given me some good ideas to build on and the truck definitely has some poke. Thanks for sharing.
Something about running no cat really messes up the CPU on this truck (O2 readings), would be okay probably with piggy back.
Great video man. I have the same set up on my 89 but the old owner had done a maf conversion with a 95 mustang ecm and now it has parasitic draws. Im swapping to stock wiring and ecm. How does it run with the original vacuum set up without all the needles mods you did? Lean Or normal?
It runs normal. The MAF should be better because of sequential injector firing along with a programmable computer. Did you upgrade to a 90mm MAF?
@@azone123465 yeah the previous owner did, but he had some problems wiring in the computer because there are extra pins and connections that need to be added in order for it to work properly. He did a pretty bad hack job trying to wire that in into the original 89 harness and now it has parasitic draws plus it never really ran good and all that.. I just want to make the thing run again. I found an unmolested original SD harness that im swapping back to and was wondering how the mods will behave with factory vacuum SD set up
@@claude6318 Everything runs without issue.
just bought a 1988 f.250 with a 5.8l Windsor, 2 wd on gasoline. but it has a utility bed on it,which is one the reasons i bought it. im sure it weighs alot more plus tools and equipment. are there any good ideas for my trucks performance? i already replaced fuel pump,starter and now my harmonic balancer seperated and im replacing it today. thanks
I’m going tomorrow to get the exact same truck😂 is it worth it ?
Have the same truck but red and lifted by a few inches took the hub caps off
@ciphha you lifted a 2 wheel drive truck?..
@@JamesR23 no a 4x4
Super glue? I've never used super glue on any engine. Is that a good idea?
The intake still is 100% the same and working to this day.
I have a 4x4 XLT with the same engine. I want to rebuild it essentially from the ground up, starting with the motor. I really want to get rid of extra stuff in the engine bay just for simplicity and I'd like to know if you have any ideas or tips. Any way to get rid of the air injection system and vacuum lines?
Smog delete is cheap and a egr delete too
This was 18 year old me, I’m so sorry guys lol
So the only mods you have are intake, throttle body and air filter sounds sick
+Evan Hebert see my updated videos, I also have traction bars and a couple other small things.
I have a 97 f250 HD 4x4 with essentially the same engine. You're running stock exhaust manifolds? And a roller cam? The pipe off off the cat to the side is a great mod too.
1994 and above is factory roller cam. I have some shorty headers to put on when I have a chance, I am going to remove my air injection when I put them on because they crack from the extra heat. Also I want to tuck my exhaust up close to the body. It hangs way to low stock.
Ivegot an 89 e 250 4x4 van with 351 , I could use all this ! Dang ! Just pull
The darn thing out the front and start from there I guess !
Go at it.
Do you know if the 351w in these trucks had roller lifters? Or was that only the lightning and maybe the bronco?
1994 and up have hydraulic roller cams and hydraulic lifters.
I've assumed that, but there's so much mixed info out there. Have you changed the cam or looked at the block valley? Looking at a 97 f250 with 351W, so was trying to figure it out.
Thanks!
Yea, only looked at the valley what about it?
Was curious if it has the spider & links like 5.0 roller.
Yup.
Lookin at one of these for $2500 on CL...How often do you fill the tank? High school student making a bit more than minimum wage and my Maxima is legitimately falling apart! Thanks!
17MPG babying it.
I have the same exact truck. But its stock. And im at the gas station everyday i drive it.
Azone123465 17mpg no way!
I am assuming all if not most EFI 351W 5.8L's are the same. Im doing a build myself on my 97 F250 and i found the exact intake set up as you but the website is telling me the ending year these will fit is 96.
+Allan Dunday It is the same intake. A lot of manufactures only recognize the 5.8 up to 1996. A lot of times I'll buy 96 parts, even when mine is a 1997. It is just because of a model generation transition. If you put the Edelbrock intake on make sure to plug any unused vacuum lines. Also RTV both sides the each lower intake manifold gasket covering the the face in a thin layer.
When you put the BBK throttle body on did you have to put bigger fuel injectors?
1977forddalton Nope.
quick question I was wondering on the cold air intake how does it hold up to dirt roads being that your air filters are out there in the open? I have been wondering bout this and is only thing keeping me from doing a cold air intake.. of course you can blow the dust out with compressed air or something just wondering how they hold up thanks
I have the same truck, but automatic. 97 F-250HD. I'm looking to start upgrading it, do you have any suggestions? I want to upgrade pretty much everything, just not sure where to start.
Traction bars are a huge help. I have a video on it.
I noticed on mine the vac advance was locked with a plate that says octane 0. Would it be possible to use a vac advance model with efi? I've only worked with carbs in the past.
There are many ways to remove the air injection, search of it on the web you'll get lots of forum posts. There are pros and cons, like legality. I would like to remove it too, but I won't unless it fails.
Engine sounds good bro
Did you install the lsd or did it come with it from the factory? I just bought a 97 f250 HD and I'm not sure if it's got lsd
Lsd is stock in the 10.5" rear end. Check the axle code on the door jam to verify. You may need new fluid. Someone may have put the wrong stuff in. I believe you need 70-140 WITH friction modifier (FOR LSD engagement.)
@@azone123465 I checked it and it's got an axle code of 39. So no factory lsd unfortunately. Time to go junkyard and fb marketplace hunting lol
I see, sorry for your luck. Do you have the 10.5" rear end?
@@azone123465 according to my research it's the 10.25
@@seth_owens I guess it is, I didn't think Open diff was even an option of the f250 HD, which motor do you have?
1993 F250 351W XL.
Any way I could get some help figuring out where this last wire goes? Runs off the main wiring harness (same harness as the injectors, drivers side)
everything is plugged in except this last wire and I can not find where it goes. Injectors, and everything on the front I'd plugged in. The wire not plugged in is about 8-10" long and has a tapered side to it. The plug itself is rectangular but the portion that goes into the female end is tapered. If anyone can help it would be extremely appreciated.
There is coolant sensor on the intake, and air temp sensor and also some other sensor, (not sure what for) but it connects on a stud almost like a spark plug wire. The coolant sensor and air temp sensor should be hard to miss. The throttle body has an AIC plug (Driver side of throttle body), and a TPS plug (Bottom of throttle body). Also, there is a plug on the EGR (Passenger side of plenum) and an EVAP plug which looks like a small canister by the throttle body. The distributor should also have a plug to it as well. What was your project by the way?
What kind of intake and throttle body are thoes ,?
get a full high output ignition and run it with autolite copper plugs with the gaps opened up a little past stock
How was the stock intake manifold to take off? I need to access my injectors on the passenger side bank.
There are only a couple bolts in the back hard to get to. Other than that it's pretty easy. You can actually leave your throttle body and egr connected to the intake manifold if really want. The egr will pull out of the exhaust manifold.
Azone123465 that's what I was thinking. I have some leaking injectors on both sides and new that pass side bank was going to be a bit of a hassle! Thanks for the insight I appreciate it!
No Problem.
LOVE MY FORD
That's cool, I've been wanting to do a front end swap on a blown up 4wd.
Edel-Brock... not Elde-brock. Great vid though
Get a 101mm throttle body and intake
I'm so jealous
Hey do you know what’s the difference between the 5.0 and 5.8 upper intake manifold
I don't know if there is much if any.
I was told that the top section is identical. It’s the lower section that’s different but I’m not to sure. Thanks for replying
whos Elder Brock?
The final boss in pokemon arena lol
He's a Mormon missionary.
1992 Ford F250 5.0L 4x4. Need to.know.where all the fuses and regulators are located. Can some please help me?
there is a box under the hood and another under the dash I believe on driver side.
You can put e85 efi's on these engines
Did you put a lower intake manifold on or just the upper?
Both, be very careful and torque the bolts down in stages perfectly to spec otherwise it will leak air and high idle/miss.
I have this same set up on my 95 f350 5.8 but ever since I did this my egr valve wants to open up on idle not all the time I can go days with no problem did you ever have this happen?
No, I put a plate on my EGR.
Your IAC might need cleaned if your having high idle. Take it off and spray it and work it up and down and put it back on.
a race/farm truck? i love it XD
+MarkTheAmazing Have fun with what you got!
+MarkTheAmazing lol
What is that little hose connected to on the throttle body I found a 250 with same throttle body but there’s no line hooked up
It is a coolant line, it is there to prevent the throttle body from freezing, it is probably not really necessary and robs some power because of the extra heat, but I left it on because our winters can get cold and I figured it is better safe than sorry.
Azone123465 how much was it cause sometimes are winters get bad in Michigan
@@cruzboitnott75 My stock throttle body had it as well. Do you have the same engine?
Should you change any spark plugs or difference off spark plugs and wires and cap for performance
Not really, OEM is fine but economy aftermarket replacement is crap reliability wise. Get motorcraft plugs. Get OEM wires or Ford Racing wires, Use OEM cap or MSD.
You mentioned, the advanced part. But, how do they advance? I’m trying to fix my truck
What is wrong with your truck?
@@azone123465 I dont think its advancing, like it has no power when the engine is warm. or loss of power on hills
Thank You, I also think now from cranking it. it may be out of time, thanks again
@@jusmavideos33 You might as well replace your rotor and cap while your at it.
i have 1992 f150 5.0 v8 and i have the bbk 56mm and i have supercomp hooker heddes and flowmaster 40s with k&N, plush hp chip, with msd coil and mallery hot box. so how hard was it to put on the edelbrock intake
I've got a 93 with a 5.0 out of a mustang, a Holley systemax lower(ported factory truck upper), proheader shorties, aftermarket 4 spd automatic transmission, spartan locker, 3.55 gears, come cams 255h camshaft, and a magnaflow magnapack.
1 have a 1989 ford E250 with the same engine. Because it's a van it has far less space available in the engine compartment. I REALLY want extra power out of my engine because 200hp is just WAY too low
EFI nitrous shot, run 75hp shot or 100hp, and 91 octane. Easy to hook up even in a van.
There are lots of things you can do with a 351W / 5.8 Ford engine even inside a van. Lots of info out there. Here's just one article: www.hotrod.com/articles/build-a-505hp-ford-351-windsor/
Any suggestions, advice, etc regarding radiator
What do you mean? Upgrading? The stock radiator does not need upgrading unless your pushing serious horsepower or are in a extremely hot environment.
What kind of normal driving mpg do you get with this?
MPG hasn't changed noticeably since the mods...
Normal driving 15-17 MPG highway, around 13 city.
I can get maybe 18 MPG if I baby it and super short shift.
Towing about 8000# on highway at 60 MPH : around 13 MPG
Towing about 8000# on highway at 75 MPH : around 9-10 MPG
BTW, I track my miles and gasoline gallons bought all the time out of habit. (Lets you know if something has changed that you may not have realized otherwise.)
whats the details on how you made that T joint to richen up the fuel mixture
I have since got rid of that and went to 24 pound injectors with better results. The same ones the older mustangs used, you can get a set of 8 remanufactured off ebay for less than $100 usually.
Azone123465 doesn't that require some kind of special tuning?
Dropped right in with better response with my current setup. It rumbles and pops a little on engine braking but sounds good, not obnoxious. I don't know how well it would work with a 100% stock setup, it may be fine. I am going to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and taper the pressure down some only because the idle is a hair, and only a hair rough from being a little rich. I'll back off the pressure until the idle smooths out to 100% normal, but as it is it's not even really noticeable unless you know the engine.
Thats cause its running rich
Thanks I know, but not much. That is why I am going to fine tune it with the regulator.
What the has mileage with your mods
Somewhere around 40k since
How much did this setup cost you
Intake used on ebay for like $280 and BBK throttle body was around $100 on sale.
@@azone123465 ty
The SD engines will never see any performance increases. The computer can't adjust for it.
That's not true, the CPU sees the difference in vacuum in the intake manifold and gives more fuel according to its preset table. My quarter mile went down from 16.5sec @85 to 15.8sec @90, I never have went back since I got my trac bars. I was really slow off the line to avoid wheel hop, so I would not be surprised if I could hit 15.3sec or so.
New Shocks will fix or minimize wheel hop.
I put new sensetrac shocks on before getting traction bars. They helped some, but the traction bars were the only thing that would stop it 100%.
Do you have a part# for intake plenum?
It is on EdelBrocks website I believe.
what geabrox ?? thanks
5 speed manual, and a 10.5 inch rear axle, limited slip with 4.10 gears. I need to check the code, I am sure they are 4.10 gears although.
Azone123465 I know this is old, but these trucks didn't have a 10.5 until the superduty, 10.25 stock unless you replaced it with a superduty axle
Hello are you still around?...
Yup.
I don't think it's a 97 looks to be 96 or under 97 head light would be different
It is a 97. One of the very last square bodies.
headers are good too
how do you have the egr set up?
I made a steel plate to block it off. I used a stock EGR gasket on both sides. The computer doesn't even know it is blocked. Also, when I took my intake off for the swap it looked like the egr gasses were traveling mostly to one cylinder because there was a soot trail to it.
+azone123465 so the check engine light doesnt turn on because of it? what about on the headers? is the tube connected to the headers?
Yea. As you said, no engine light. Also, I kept the tube to the exhaust manifold, I just blocked the egr at the intake manifold as I said.
What would be the best heads to go with this setup?
GT40? Edelbrock?
GT40 would be the best bang for the buck. I have been trying to justify purchasing a used set off eBay for a while now. They go for $500-700, it is supposed to be an instant 30-40hp over stock. For new heads, Victor Jrs look to be the best, just guessing but they probably adding 50 hp or more. I've looked this up a million times but I forgot all the details.
I've done some research and lots of people suggest GT40p heads, if you know what is the difference?
Can you link me to the most reliable heads while still getting lots of power. Also I don't want to have to do any mods to engine ( such as swapping pistons and such) Those victor jr's look quite nice but I do not have much experience. thanks
Also can I keep the stock headers?
If you want horsepower........take off the cat.
Total cost?
100% investment about $3000
can I do this to a 98 f250 5.4
It is a different engine all together, but a free flowing exhaust and a quality tuner would be a good start for it.
Thats awsome bud. im going to do the same to mine now... giver shit!
Driving is a responsibility, risking your life and others. It's not a race track. American cars are already well powered.
+Jim McDaniels your a douche! im positive that there are alot more irresponsible drivers out there than anyone doing any of these upgrades on a f250.. its just straight up cool to do
Remove tampon from Mangina
Where’s the Dino numbers
I wish I had them.
EDLEBROCK, " EH-DEL-BROCK " NOT ELDER-BROCK.
Take some caramel to your aunt, don't forget the tomatoes and potatoes. Your going to have to wash your hands first because they look extraordinarily dirty.
sweet man, building a 5.8l in my e150. check out my channel also
You're not getting 300hp from a throttle body and a timing advance my friend lol
The engine is notoriously underrated by Ford. It is 240HP stock. I also have an Edelbrock performer intake. Yes it may not be 300 but it is not far off.
@@azone123465 if you're talking around 270 flywheel that makes more sense I've seen these motors with gt40s and cammed that are lucky to make 300 to the ground
i had a stock pickupjust like that but it was white
id take the cat off and put on a magnaflow muffler
Then you wouldn't pass an emissions test.
i know that.
I have had the cat off when the studs rusted, its seems to throw off the O2 sensor and it losses major HP with out the cat. I am sure there is a work around but I don't know of it right off hand. Plus it sounds like trash with out the cat.
Azone123465 I have a 1996 Bronco with the 351w. If you do without the cat you will gain a little more power. It's the o2 sensor that's reducing power when the cat is taken off because the sensors is after the cat. You have to get an o2 sensor delete kit to get around that problem. I did it to mine and have increased power without a check engine light.
Seems to me you are spending money to messing up a nice stock vehicle that engineers designed just right.
Save your money for retirement or a house purchase or some other thing that will serve you much better.
Jim McDaniels I work with many engineers at my job. Trust me, the Dilbert cartoon represents a lot of them accurately.
Jim McDaniels Also I have about 50,000 miles on my truck since these mods... no problems, no disrespect, but learn how to have some fun.
you should delete all of your smog equipment, egr, cat, air injection, all of it.
+Matt Leonard I have my egr blocked (it doesn't know the difference.) I thought about removing or disabling the air injection and adding headers but I would need a matching oxygen sensor I would think. Also, I like the idea of the cast manifolds never cracking, I have had them red hot several times.
its good that you have your egr blocked off. id take the cat out and put on a magnaflow muffler. headers are a great mod, long tubes for low end, shorties for top end. you shouldnt be doing anything that makes your manifold glow. if you get the right headers made specifically for your engine than your stock o2 sensor(s) will switch right over
yea, I am talking about removing the air injection. The whole point of it is to add oxygen to the exhaust to burn left over fuel until the cat heats up. Anyway, removing that extra oxygen should throw off the readings of the O2 sensor, and that sensor is used to help with A/F ratios.
Also check out my video of WOT in a field, I do this about once a year, no harm done yet. It's called truck melt down or something, I get the manifold red there, it takes about 20 minutes of almost non stop WOT. Other vehicles that do this to will make there headers glow also, seen it in person. The manifold of header has no time to cool down because of almost no part throttle, and the cooling system only cools the headers off indirectly through the heads.
sounds like you need to read up about how a cooling system works in an engine
ETC 8558
It's actually ETJ 8558, but nice attempt at trolling, lol
I took all air pollution bullshit off you have to reroute your fan belt but it will free up some power if you put on some headers I did headers on mine straight to some cherry bombs no cats on it I punched my cats out that way they look like they're still on there
Do you know what belt you used?
What's your rpm at idle since you have advanced your timing. and do you know the exact degree you advanced it to.
It is about 1000RPM, I do not know the exact degree. Place a mark before you move it, I do not recommend moving it too much as it may make it harder to start (3 millimeters). The rotor turns CCW, so twist the distributor CW to advance.
does it over-heat when you stand at idle to long.
I have never had the temperature past half on my coolant gauge even when working the motor 100% for extended periods, like mudding and hauling trailers. I think it is because this it uses the same radiator as the 7.3 which makes a lot more heat (and less horsepower).
No disrespect. But they call it a "Cold air intake" for a reason. The way u have ur air filters sitting. There sucking up hot air off the motor. You need to move them to the outside of the engine bay.
Ray Funchess I have a K&N setup now, check out the video. Plus at that time, as I explained in a comment earlier, it was still better even though it was not a true cold air intake. Restriction was greatly reduced, and some more power was noticeable. Consider this, for every 10 degrees F hotter your supposed to loose 1% HP. So maybe even if it is 10 to 30 degrees F hotter that's about 1 to 3% power lose. But if the VOLUME of air being ingested by your engine increases by greater than 3% that will be a net gain. Also the engine compartment is pretty open and the grill is pretty big so at speed I bet the air in those locations is not that much hotter than ambient.
What gear?
5 Speed manual.
@@azone123465 Sorry I was referring to rear end ratio. Thanks.
@@MrFredsAdventures 4.10