Great video. Can the two pins really be punched out that easily? (Of yourse you have to keep the damper assembly steady in the vise). I am asking because I have seen a video of a guy who drilled the pins out which I would like to avoid.
@@potamitismeccanicaThank you, you were right, in the other video the guy forgot to take out the LSC shaft first...so there was no way he could punch out the pins🤦♂️😅
Hello. Yes, you must hold the brown unit and then unscrew the top cap. You can do it in two ways: 1) Hold it with a vice block, or 2) Slide something underneath, avoiding the holes in the lower part vertically. In both scenarios, you must lift the blender to reveal the brown part."
hi again! so i took it all apart until getting the blue low speed compression rod- is there a circlip and / or threads and a nut on top? very small nut! not sure i have a driver for it- do you know the size? thanbks again!
Thanks @cben86. No, any brand that you can find. Is just the typical o-rings. They are made from nitrile. It's very easy function on this area so don't worry for leaks anymore 😁
Hi there- great video- I think you are the only one who as done it!. I have the same issue and am going to do the same; i was wondering if you know how the fork worked after the service- no leaks? Thanks !
@@potamitismeccanica Hi sorry hoping you can give me the measurements for the orings? When you say 2x1.5 and 3x7 what do numbers correspond to? Seems here in the US they like to make things complicated. so Inner diameter / outter diameter / rubber thickness. thanks again!
Hi @robertnunezsf. The 3x7 means that the thickness is 3mm and the inner diameter is 7mm. Also the 2x1.5 means that the thickness is 2mm and the inner diameter is 1.5mm
Hi, good video! I have a problem whit high and low speed compression.There is no bleading in the lower leg,but i think that they don’t work proprerly when the regulation is closed.have you ever seen this problem?
Hi @matteoricci146. I'm not so sure what the problem could be, i haven't seen something similar. Did you remove the dumper, so you can observe better the issue?
sorry one more ;) its hard to see in the video- but i forgot the order the shims went back on. when you have the damper clamped as in the video, bolt coming up through the hole, the largest shim goes on first (then smaller as it goes up?
Great video. Can the two pins really be punched out that easily? (Of yourse you have to keep the damper assembly steady in the vise). I am asking because I have seen a video of a guy who drilled the pins out which I would like to avoid.
Yes is very easy to remove the pins. You just have to keep the damper steady, it is not necessary to put it in the vise.
@@potamitismeccanicaThank you, you were right, in the other video the guy forgot to take out the LSC shaft first...so there was no way he could punch out the pins🤦♂️😅
@@potamitismeccanica Your instruction video is the best,quality work for sure.
Thank you so much for the instruction. How did you take off the top cap and bladder? I cant find a way to hold the compression assembly
Hello. Yes, you must hold the brown unit and then unscrew the top cap. You can do it in two ways: 1) Hold it with a vice block, or 2) Slide something underneath, avoiding the holes in the lower part vertically. In both scenarios, you must lift the blender to reveal the brown part."
Thanks for video, mine lyrik charger 2.1 rc2 is leaking from rebound damper xD
awesome; 1 for us / 0 for sram. the PUSH damper is on sale for 94us but i'd rather fix myself. thanks again!!
hi again! so i took it all apart until getting the blue low speed compression rod- is there a circlip and / or threads and a nut on top? very small nut! not sure i have a driver for it- do you know the size? thanbks again!
Thank you for making this video. I've never bought individual o-rings. Is there a specific brand or durometer of rubber I need for this project?
Thanks @cben86. No, any brand that you can find. Is just the typical o-rings. They are made from nitrile. It's very easy function on this area so don't worry for leaks anymore 😁
@@potamitismeccanica thank you for the reply
Hi there- great video- I think you are the only one who as done it!. I have the same issue and am going to do the same; i was wondering if you know how the fork worked after the service- no leaks? Thanks !
Thanks @robertnunezsf. I have repeard a couple, and yes they have no leaks. The older of those is one year before. And It works great
@@potamitismeccanica Hi sorry hoping you can give me the measurements for the orings? When you say 2x1.5 and 3x7 what do numbers correspond to? Seems here in the US they like to make things complicated. so Inner diameter / outter diameter / rubber thickness. thanks again!
Hi @robertnunezsf. The 3x7 means that the thickness is 3mm and the inner diameter is 7mm. Also the 2x1.5 means that the thickness is 2mm and the inner diameter is 1.5mm
@@potamitismeccanica thanks for clarifying!
Great video, thank you!
What is the punch size the remove the pins?
Thanks @johnh485. Is the 2mm punch
Hi, good video! I have a problem whit high and low speed compression.There is no bleading in the lower leg,but i think that they don’t work proprerly when the regulation is closed.have you ever seen this problem?
Hi @matteoricci146. I'm not so sure what the problem could be, i haven't seen something similar. Did you remove the dumper, so you can observe better the issue?
hello again... one more question,,, i cant find anywhere the smaller oring (2mm thick x 1.5mm inner diameter). Any ideas where i can order? thanks -
Hi Robert. Don't worry. It's not obligatory to replace it. It doesn't leak.
@@potamitismeccanica thanks for the info!
sorry one more ;) its hard to see in the video- but i forgot the order the shims went back on. when you have the damper clamped as in the video, bolt coming up through the hole, the largest shim goes on first (then smaller as it goes up?
@@robertnunezsf yes. The largest shim goes first.
@@potamitismeccanica thanks!
True meccanica
Ahhh sorry never mind it is a clip!