How to Install or Upgrade your Trolling Motor Plug and Receptacle on Your Boat!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 16 лип 2024
- It's finally time for me to show you how to upgrade or install a brand new Marineco trolling motor plug and receptacle on your boat! Last year I posted one of my first and most popular videos ever - How to properly install wiring for a trolling motor at • How to properly instal... and some of you guys noticed that my plug was not the correct amperage for my setup. I actually only noticed AFTER I had finished recording that video that the receptacle was clearly marked max 40 Amps. OOPS! So I promised I would upgrade and today you get to join me for the install.
We're going to install a heavy duty Marineco 12VCOS3 trolling motor plug and receptable and you can purchase that by clicking here: amzn.to/3et8U3s
Some specs on this model:
- 70A continuous rating
- Universal design for 2 or 3-wire configuration 12V, 24V, 12/24V, 24/36V, 36V or 48V systems
- Corrosion resistant, plated brass electrical components
- Receptacle contains watertight sealing cap and the plug contains Integrated strain relief and keyed design with thumbprint locator
- Accepts up to 6 AWG wire
Not only is this the correct and safe solution to my install, but I also REALLY like how this plug fits in to the receptable vs my old twist lock version that was a pain to line up sometimes (think night time - mosquitoes buzzing). This is just 3 pressure prongs that plug in straight and snug and that's the end of it. Heck, I would say this is a GREAT upgrade even if I didn't need the more robust power handling.
Other than the MarineCo plug and receptable (amzn.to/3et8U3s ), the only tools used in the video were a philips screwdriver, pliers, a drill and a dremel (you can use a knife and drill if you don't have a dremel tool of some kind). Probably one of the easiest electrical upgrades you can ever do!
For your own reference, here is the full list of trolling motors and power requirements from Minn Kota:
www.minnkotamotors.com/suppor...
As always, please don't hesitate to post your comments or questions below, smack that like button if you found the video helpful and of course, don't forget to subscribe for more videos posted weekly!
Tight lines everyone!
(¯`·._.·(¯`·._.·(¯`·._.· FUN STUFF! ·._.·´¯)·._.·´¯)·._.·´¯)
♥ Follow on Instagram: / danrichardfishing
♥ Follow on Facebook: / danrichardfishing
♫ Music and Sound FX from: bit.ly/2ZSJqs5
MY GEAR:
● My Drone: amzn.to/2IqgoqS
● My Camera: amzn.to/2MZxfW5
● My Blogging Lens: amzn.to/2Zx1btT
● My Mic: amzn.to/2MVQdgd
● My GoPro 7 Hero Black: amzn.to/2IrgE9f
● My YOLOTek PowerStick Aqua: amzn.to/2QpT5DG
● Battery Eliminator Cable for GoPro 3: amzn.to/30Fdwwv
above are Amazon associate links
(•_•)
( •_•)/⌐O-O
(⌐O_O)
So glad I changed my trolling motor plug, I really did hate that twist lock version. Anyone else do this on their boat?
I was going to install mine this weekend but after watching this video, I'm returning my old plugs and going with the 70A plug too. Thank you!
@@kbxiong67 Nice, you won't regret it, the plug is awesome! Thanks so much for the comment and good luck with your install!
Just did mine today super easy and super heavy duty. I love it was thinking about twist lock so glad found this video and your channel. Awesome thanks.
@@Scott-Anderson you're very welcome, thanks so much for the comment! I am so happy I changed to this from the twist lock, so much easier, glad you found the install to be very easy, wish everything was that simple lol! Tight lines!
I’m going to be doing this today.
I am doing some major upgrades to my boat this winter. I just purchased a new trolling motor plug and receptacle to install. After seeing this plug you installed I am returning my other one and ordered this Marineco plug tonight. thanks for this great video. Very helpful
You definitely won't regret it, this plug is heavy duty and if your other one was a twist lock, you REALLY will like this one better!! Thanks so much for the comment :)
Just installed this bad boy. Sure is a great replacement for the factory POS that comes with boats. To further prevent corrosion, I added a drop of marine silicone in that hole where the pos/neg wires split (coming out of the plug to the trolling motor) to prevent any water from entering the plug there, fresh or salt.
I just changed mine today, thanks to your great tutorial Dan.
Ordered the same plug. It was an easy install in my Crestliner. I only had to widen up the hole where the old twist lock adapter was. That plug is solid!
Awesome, I'm glad the video was helpful and you were able to do the install! I'm also happy to hear you're happy with the quality of the plug. It really is a big, heavy duty plug, it's hard to get a sense of that until you have it in your hands. Thanks for the comment! :)
Just wanted to say thanks. I upgraded my trolling motor to a 24 volt minn kota. I thought initially I only had to add a battery. Man was I wrong. I've watched most of your videos. Couldn't have done it right without you.
Just saw this video!! Thanks for taking the time to show this in detail, those sleeves for the wires are a nice touch as in installing and holding the wires!! This is a nice setup and you cannot go wrong with using a Drexel tool, these can make any job soo much easier! Yea work does get in the way with fun things like this and fishing. Tight lines sir!! :)
You are very welcome, I hope you found it useful! And yes, sometimes I'm so busy with work and home projects that I wonder if I'll ever fish again 😂😭
Hey Dan,
I Just did this upgrade on my Princecraft, was having problems with my old twist one and decided buy and install this one after seeing your video.
I'm only running 12V but plan on eventually upgrading in the future, which this Heavy Duty plug will have no problems handling.
Thanks man
Keep the great videos coming.
Greetings fellow Princecraft owner! :) Were you having the same issue where the entire housing was spinning around when you would try to spin lock/unlock the plug? That's what was driving me bananas! Glad you like the upgrade and the video was helpful, enjoy your new awesome plug! Thanks for dropping a comment and letting me know you did this install :)
I'm up grading my trolling motor from a 12 volt Minn Kota power drive v2 to a 24 volt Minn Kota Ultrex . With the help of your videos I should have no problem rewiring my trolling motor. Thanks for making such informative videos.
You're very welcome Dennis, I hope your install went/will go smoothly!
Got a big project this weekend to do my boat. I'm replacing the stock edge 45 (45lbs thrust) for a 12v terrova (55lbs thrust) with ipilot link. I'm gonna replace the stock 8gauge wires for 6gauge and upgrade the 50amp breaker for a 60amp. This video will for sure help me when installing the plug and receptacle. Thanks!
Enjoy your videos. Helped me do the correct install for my 24 volt trolling motor, thanks
Little late to the video but EXCELLENT tutorial. My Ulterra needs replacing and this was just the help i needed, thanks for not skipping anything.
Awesome video. Thank you for showing every step clearly and slowly. My motor is rocking now!!!!
You're welcome!
Installing the same plug this weekend !! Thanks for the tips .. Very well appreciated Dan 😉
Your video was very helpful for me to upgrade my trolling motor plug! Thank you! And my boat (Princecraft 167BT) looks very similar to yours so I am definitely looking forward to more videos!
Thank you thank you thank you!!! Just bought this plug and receptacle. So happy to find your video.
You're very welcome!! :)
Did this on mine today and your video helped, thanks man! Gotta love those early 2000s Princecraft!
Amazing, glad it was helpful! And yes I LOVE my PrinceCraft (mine is an 06) but MAAAAAAN do I need more storage space!
Thanks for the video. I learn more from you than from any other boating channel!
Wow thanks so much for the kind words Alan, really appreciated!
Excellent video, it was extremely helpful to me as I had to do almost the exact replacement. Lots of good little details that made my upgrade replacement straightforward.
Just bought this plug and have yet to do the install. Excellent tutorial! Thanks
You're going to love this plug once you upgrade, especially if your old one is that twist lock style!
Awesome!!! Didn’t know what those sleeves were for! Big help! Thxs
No problem, I actually use ferrules in a few of my videos :) All the best!
I came to you tube to find out how to use the little sleeves and how to enlarge the hole for the new Plug.. Great video, thanks.
Awesome, I'm glad the video helped and thank you for the comment!
Thank you so much for this video I just ordered one thanks to your video.
You won't regret it, the plug is amazing!
I'll be doing this in spring. Hate the twist lock one I have now. Thanks!!!
Great video. Had to replace the standard plug on my new motor within 3 months of owning it. Agree, the twist plug is not the best method. Went with the old plug because I didn’t know better. Will do this upgrade when the next replacement comes.
You won't regret it, best plug I've used and after almost a year it's still rock solid!
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the video it helped me tremendously Thanks again 😀 👍🐟
Glad to hear it!
Super helpful thank you!
I'm modifying my little alu boat and i have this exact plug lying on the deck as the last job to do. Thanks for an excellent tutorial.
It's a great upgrade for sure, no more annoying twist lock! Thanks for the kudos on the video and for taking the time to post a comment :)
Great video!
Oh NO you have become one of the “LETS GET INTO IT “ creators...and had high hopes for you Dan....haha...Nice Video very informative as always!!!!
😂😂 Is that a thing? LOL!
@@DanRichardFishing Not really, but probably 90% of UA-cam videos seem to start there videos by saying “Let’s get into it” there use to be another phrase that everyone used when ppl use to do all the unboxing videos...
Great job
Thank you so much :)
I watched your video on how to wire up a trolling motor and made a comment about upgrading from Marinco plug and receptacle. Your comment was to watch the video where are you upgraded your plug-in receptacles I assume that is this video. I too hated my Marinco plug and receptacle but I installed the Minnkota MKR-26. When pulling my old Marenco apart my red wire fell off as well just like yours. Certainly your new Marinco is a much better plug Then the old Marinco. Have you taken a look at the MKR-26. I liked it so much I’ve upgraded my small Boat and my big boat. Anyway thanks for the videos
the more robust heavy duty Marine co is way better than the 40 amp version for sure just a much bigger heavier more heavy-duty piece. The wires also secure way way better. I did check out the Minn Kota plug but it was super expensive and a friend of mine that is a marine mechanic suggested I go with the Marinco. But yeah night and day difference for sure and I love getting rid of the twist lock!!
I have 2 fishing boats that have the same "old" plug that the video has. I will change both plugs based on your video.
Thanks Dan
No problem!
😂👌🏾good job! Ty
My pleasure!!
Greetings,
Thanks for the great video. What’s the third wire receptacle hole/sleeve for on that plug?🤔
After watching your GREAT vid, I was wondering what the third connection is used for on the plug? Possible upgrade down the road or running an extra wire somewhere?
Oooo good question bro! While it's not common anymore, you used to be able to buy trolling motors that can be wired for 12v OR 24v. An example would be the older Minn Kota Vantage. On those kinds of trolling motors, the two wire was used for the 12v and the third wire would be installed for 24v. Nowadays, trolling motors are either 12, 24 or 36 etc and some new trolling motors like the Garmin Force will autodetect the voltage being used, the same motor will run on 24 or 36 with a 2 wire cable.
My comment below about Northland Marine is not an ad for them. I don’t work there, I am just a long time customer. When my Ulterra went crazy after my old plug popped out they saved my weekend. Power stopped when the plug pulled out. When I went to stow the motor, the motor pulled up wrong and locked on the lower edge of my pontoon boat. I called them on a Friday at 4:50 pm. They close at 5. Jason helped remove be my motor from the bracket, and reset my motor while patiently waiting on the phone for 30 minutes.If you have a problem on the water call them for immediate ideas or wait on the line for 35 minutes with Minnekota. I saw a thumbs down. Again not an ad but a suggestion for help.I am 73 and this was no easy feat for me since the Ulterra weighs 80 pounds. Jason was super patient nand saved me from having to tow my 23 ft Bennington in.
First off, nice to see someone your age still getting out there and fishing, I hope I'm in just as a good a shape when I'm your age! And congrats on finding a great Marine mechanic/company. They can be hard to find, but once you do, they can make boat ownership and maintenance so much easier on you and your wallet. I never saw your previous comment, but I'm totally OK with you sharing your positive experience with Northland! :) Have a great day and thank you for taking the time to leave a comment :)
o
Dan, great videos! When you connect your batteries in series and you have a 2 bank charger onboard, shouldn’t you have a disconnect switch between the cable from one battery To the other when charging 2 batteries at one time?
Thanks Dennis! No, you don't have to disconnect your crossover cable. That's why you use 1 bank set per battery :)
One question...how did you run that Minn Kota while it is stowed? I thought all Minn Kota TM's only operate when deployed? Thanks
What wire size did you have coming off of the motor to the plug? thx.
Great video! Dumb question but what size fuse do you use to go along with the new receptacle? 70amp fuse?
I actually recommend you go with a breaker and not a fuse. I switched to a 60AMP MK breaker you can see that install on this video: ua-cam.com/video/z8vjVBew1I4/v-deo.html
This is way better than fuses!
It's got tow round seal but only one gets in or do bouth o ring can get second one in
Great videos as I just had trolling motor issues that forced me to bail on a tournament at the very last minute! I do have a question. You said you needed to change your 40 amp plug because you had previously wired your batteries together. I watched the older video and it looks like you put two 12 volt batteries together in series. If I am correct that makes a 24 volt “system” but it does NOT change the amperage. If so, you really did not have to change your plug (even though the new one is much better). Am I correct or have I missed something?
Hi Patrick, so sorry to hear you had a bail on a tournament that absolutely sucks, especially when it's because of a piece of equipment! this is a really good question so you have to remember that the amp draw is not determined by the batteries but it's determined by the electrical device that you're using. So a average 24-volt trolling motor will draw up to 50 amps typically so this is regardless of how you set up your batteries or how many batteries you're using in a series or in parallel. So if the Max draw rating for your trolling motor is 50 amps then you need to make sure you have a breaker or fuse system that can handle 50 amps, regardless of the voltage draw. Of course you also need to make sure that the breaker is meant for your voltage and the Marine Breakers are all rated up to 48 volts if I remember correctly regardless of what the max amperage is. S in my case the 40 amp receptacle was not rated for the maximum 50 amp draw of my trolling motor and I had to change it. The only way a 40 amp receptacle would be appropriate as if I had a 12-volt trolling motor, which I believe have 30 amp Max draws. Hope that helps and thank you for the question and I hope you get your trolling motor issues off!
Hi Dan..thanks for the videos..what is the advantage of having the plug versus wiring the motor directly to the batteries? thanks
Great question Richard! Here's a few advantages I think of right away:
1. Should you have to remove the motor (Mine is on a quick release plate so I can easily remove it for storage) you have to disconnect/reconnect and feed the wires every time!
2. It is recommended that you disconnect your TM from power when your batteries are on a charger.
3. You should keep your plug disconnected until you've launched your boat for safety purposes. I've seen a few sliced up hands from people climbing in the boat at the bow and accidentally hitting something that started the prop.
4. Some trolling motors such as an MG X5 have a light that's on anytime the motor has power. That's a parasitic drain on the battery.
For items 2, 3 and 4, you can get around that by having a power switch somewhere between the battery and the trolling motor. But then you still have #1 to deal with if applicable. At my old house, there was a lot of random theft and my boat was in front of the house. I always removed the trolling motor it between fishing trips. Hope that helps!
@@DanRichardFishing sure does thanks!
Should have included the name of the product in the title. I installed this on my new (to me) trolling motor. Mine didn't come with the inserts into the male connector, i had to use bare wire, but works great. Consider using dielectric grease so the wires don't corrode into the receptacle, since you are using dissimilar metals. Also the plug is pretty bulky, but holds nicely. I also had used electrical tape under the "strain relief" to ensure tight fit. Also, when you upgraded your wiring, the old receptacle didn't really even fit that 6ga wire....
also a 2" hole saw will work for the mount.
Hey thank you for all the feedback!! The product name is in the description, I try to keep my titles to 60 characters or less. But I always name and link to products I talk about :) Strange that yours didn't come with the ferrules, I actually just have a big pack of them that I use for different products. I'd still pick some up and and add them if you can. For the dielectric, it's interesting how people use this on everything and anything. The grease is meant to seal connections, not on electrical points of contact although tons of people do this. I see people recommending using it on battery connectors and I cringe every time. Use a connector protectant for that, WAY less messy :)
You're bang on about the wiring upgrade, I knew I was going to need to upgrade the receptacle right away and VERY glad I did, the new one is awesome. Definitely bigger, and it just feels so much better quality and heavy duty, plus no more annoying twist lock! I didn't use the hole saw bit on this one because I wanted to keep those straight edges on the sides, plus I didn't want to accidentally crack the small plastic piece, which is a risk with a hole saw on such a small part. This is an older boat and finding replacement parts is not easy.
Still super happy with this install, it's been a year and still hasn't budged and looks good as new. Thanks again and tight lines!
Anyone know if you could just cut the plug off and throw on some eyelet terminal connectors? Just need to hook one up to a battery and trying to figure this out.
Great video Dan , have a question about the I Pilot puck. How did you wire that? I know you wire it to a 12V source like a nearby fish finder. Did you splice it in with butt connectors or some other way ? Thanks again .
I actually do not have the heading sensor with my motor as I believe you need the Bluetooth version to have that, my older Terrova doesn't come with it. I actually would need a different heading sensor that Garmin sells that connects to my unit but it's pricey so I just suffer in silence lol! I'll definitely have it when I upgrade my system very soon. In my case, I would likely connect it to my bow mount Echomap power connection, I'd crimp the puck power wire and echomap power wire in to a spade connector setup :) Hope that helps!
Aww ... that’s helps .
Thank you very much
You're very welcome :)
Great video. Thanks for making this. Question: what size wires from the trolling motor to the plug? My wires are 10 AWG. Marinco recommends 8 or 6 AWG. Do you think 10 AWG will work? I'm no electrician..
Thanks.
So the factory wiring for your trolling motor is 10AWG? I would assume the factory would use the appropriate wire, but that does seem on the small side. What brand and model is your TM?
Minn kota terrova riptide. 24 volt
I fish saltwater and I have gone through two Marinco 70 Amp plugs. the weakness is the little allen wrench screws that hold the wires. they do not appear to be stainless or tinned. They rot and it's toast. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link! With my new 24 volt lithium system and Xi5 I am going with an Anderson plug. All tinned and no exposure.
Hi Tim, thank you for the feedback and sorry to hear about these issues. The electrical components are corrosion resistant plated brass according to the website. Did you reach out to them and ask about this? Was also curious on what your setup looks like, how is that getting exposed to salt water?? You got me curious when I read your comment so I went in the garage and cracked open the panel that has the plug in it and the bolts look as good as new. I really feel for you guys dealing with saltwater applications, that stuff is just murder on boats! Hope the Anderson plug gets it done for you! Are you planning on using a bolt-in receptacle adapter for it? Otherwise you can't unplug it with one hand.
@@DanRichardFishing - yes, my boat is on a saltwater slip and has a lot of water over the bow. Since it was a whaler Montauk 150, I could not get behind the plug to screw it in to seal. I used 2 part epoxy but I think the run from the center console to the bow just had a saltwater vapor all the time. I just got a “new” 2018 whaler Montauk 170 and have a Motorguide xi5 24 volt on the way! I am going with a Rhodan battery tender plug. Hopefully that will last more than a year. Thank you so much for all your great videos. I decided to take the plunge on 3 lithium 12 volt batteries for my new boat based on your videos. You’ve got style!
You should have ordered the two pin version to maintain IP67 compliance. Best Practice: Tin the wires before clamping and coat with dielectric grease.
Has this plug worked flawlessly for you since the install? Is your motor a Terrova? I bought this plug then noticed it says on the back its for 6-8 AWG? As well, I emailed Minn Kota and found out the Terrova power wire is a 10AWG. I don't wanna install this unless its has worked for you flawlessly and you have the same motor? thanks for any help.
Great video.. what if you have a red,black and orange wires to hook up to receptacle? Trolling motor only has red and black. Running 24v 80lb minkota so assuming I don’t need either the red or orange?
Sounds like you have an older boat that had an old 24 volt trolling motor back when it used to be three wires. You no longer need the third wire so just wire up the positive and negative black and red :)
@@DanRichardFishing thanks, yes it’s a 2006 BW Dauntless. Has old 4 prong receptacle and 4 prong plug that need to be replaced. Old receptacle had red,orange and black hooked up but only used the orange and black wires on the male plug which was a sealed plug. So trolling motor only had 2 wires red and black. New plugs and receptacles are completely different so was confused. Thanks again!!
That sleeve is called a Ferrel.
Hey thanks, learned something new today! :)
I bought this but I'm using 4awg. Overkill.....I know.
However 4awg ferrules was a chore to find. I just shoved the wire in and tightened. I had never used ferrules before but this product almost demanded it.
It seems solid without the ferrule though.
Hahah definitely overkill! Maybe inspect your connections at the end of each season to make sure the connection is still secure with all the banging around your boat does all year.
@@DanRichardFishing pops was an electrician for over 40 years. His level of safety has worn off. If he could have a substation shut down to change a light bulb he would have. Haha!
So it's natural to say "meh....just cut me 15 feet of the 4.....just to be safe!"
I will check it every summer anyway. But I tugged the crap put of them and they weren't going anywhere!
My RV application can only use 4 gauge, and this is the only three prong plug that matches my needs. The tech sheet says you can use a ferrule on the receptacle but it doesn’t say that for the plug. Looking at pictures, I can’t see how a standard ferrule would make a larger wire fit in a smaller hole. What am I missing? Is there some kind of reducer ferrule, and that’s what they mean? Should I just forget the ferrule? I’m worried because I tried an Anderson SB120 connector first and those copper tabs aren’t stable. It worked fine for a couple weeks and then a connection got loose and the plug melted really bad from the increased resistance
@@matthewmcmillan9031 a ferrule would squeeze right in there just fine actually but don't worry about it. I had never used them ever and that's what made me apprehensive at first.
I just threw some noalox in there and cranked those screws down. They aren't going anywhere. I feel like I could hang from the plug. Haha.
So I noticed on my new Terrova that I needed to do the same and replace the plug. My question is when I look at the wire coming directly out of the trolling motor itself it says it is 10 AWG wire on it. If you check the wire coming directly out of your trolling motor, does it say what gauge it is? The one I have from Minn Kota is 80lbs/24V/60".
Totally normal, my Terrova has 10AWG as well and that's fine for the small run between the motor and plug. You and I have the exact same motor :)
I have a 36V Terrova and am on my third set of the Marinco plugs, as they come apart from all the twisting over time - not to mention the wires don't stay in the receptacle well, as shown in your video. I just found out about the 70amp connectors this morning from my local boat store, while purchasing a new 40 amp plug. My question is, when I installed the trolling motor, I was sold a 40 amp breaker. Did you install a higher-rated breaker?
Your 40 Amp receptacle is too small for a 36v system, the minimum size is a 50 amp so you should definitely not put another one of those in. Get the one I show in this video, it is WAYYYY better, more secure and robust AND no more screwing around with a twist lock. My breaker is a 60AMP breaker, which is the recommended size. Check out my other video on installing trolling motor wiring and I show exactly what I use :)
@@DanRichardFishing Thanks very much for the reply. I had already installed the 40amp plug before your reply, so I will run with it until it fails, which it almost certainly will do. At that time I will replace it with the items you suggested. The one thing interesting to me is that I have never tripped the 40amp breaker, so the load has never exceeded 40 amps. However, the cables are only about 3-4' max in length, so that helps. Cheers!
Battery Tender plug problem solved
nice plug I seen your vedeo when you change your wires and I new that old plug was not going to work
Haha yeah that old one was way underrated for my motor. Thanks for watching!
Would everything still work if you attached the positive and negative leads coming from the trolling motor and batteries to any of the 1,2,or 3 terminals so long as the plug and receptacle match each other? I just bought a used terrova and the 2 spot on the new receptacle that came with is broken.
Yes, absolutely would still work, just make sure everything lines up with the right terminals.
Eh Clark, my 2022 Excel BP boat came prewired for a TM, it has the cables coming out neatly out of a plastic covering the hole and is gonna be a 24V setup, do you recommend the plug are you using on this video?
Yes definitely, it's been over a year that I've installed this plug and it still looks as good as new and works perfectly, I love it. I also recently did some major wiring upgrades on the boat and I took this front panel off and had a chance to inspect the connections for the socket and everything is still perfect with zero corrosion. So very happy with this plug and I recommend it confidently.
Since it's a 3 wire plug and you only installed 2 wires, I would be putting some marine sealant in the plug where the 3rd wire is missing.
Would want water creeping in through there
👍
Honestly I don't see why you would do that. There is a gasket that seals the entire connection from the outside elements when connected and a rubber plug that seals it when not in use. No water can get at the back side of the plug unless I submerge the boat right up to the casting deck, and if I do that, I have bigger problems than water getting in the unused hole lol! In all honesty though, marine sealant and dielectric grease are WAY overused or incorrectly used on electrical components. I've had people suggest slathering battery posts with dielectric... that's about the worse thing you can possibly do.
So the original purchase of the 24 volt trolling motor came with the incorrect plug specs??
Both my rubber pieces came off when I was pushing the wire through. It was unavoidable. You pushed them through so easy and the rubber piece stayed. Did I have bad plugs or something?
What should I do if I have 4 wires running to my current trolling motor? Replacing a old Evinrude with a Garmin force any help would be appreciated!
OK so you have one of the old 24v setups! So what you need to do is check and see what gauge those wires are. If they are the correct rated AWG size for the length of run, then you can use one pair of red and black and remove the second, and then run your batteries in a series. You can find everything on how to do this at ua-cam.com/video/z8vjVBew1I4/v-deo.html
Hope that helps!
Hey Dan, Cabelas hooked up my 24 volt minn Kota trolling motor n my minn Kota 24 volt anchor winch. I have the plug n twist connector on both. those are wrong?!
If you have the same MK unit as I do, your plug should be rated for 60 amps and that old twist lock I had was max 40. You can find the amperage and wiring guide for Minn Kota motors at www.minnkotamotors.com/support/trolling-motor-installation-guides/trolling-motor-wiring-and-battery-guide?miwg and you can see the max draw. Your plug needs to be rated according to those specs. So yes, it sounds like you may have a plug that is too small.
HOW TO INSTALL A TRANSDUCER ON A 2021 MINN KOTA 24 V RIPTIDE TERROVA I PILOT BOW MOUNT
Do you have to do anything with the 3rd hole? Tighten the screws, remove the ferrule or anything, or just leave it as is?
If you're not using it you can just leave it as is.
What guage is the wire coming from the trolling motor to the plug? My new 24v Terrova is 8 awg. I just ordered this plug & recepticle. Hoping the 8 awg will be ok. I have 6 awg to run from the recepticle to the batteries. The plug and wires that came with my Lund are crap.
Hahah yeah same with my Princecraft, definitely sub-par wiring. You're fine with the 8 as long as your run is less than 15 feet total. If longer than 15 feet, you need to use 6. Hope that helps!
@@DanRichardFishing I pulled the cover off today and had a look. The stock wire coming out of the Terrova is 10 awg. Did you change the wire that goes into the motor itself?
any updates on this plug? I've read some people have issues with it and the lock nut on the back strips out
Still working perfectly and hasn't budged a millimeter since I installed it. Extremely happy to have installed it! And I fish heavy current and pretty good size waves so my bow takes a beating...
I have a 36V fortrex and it is 112LB thrust and I run a 100amp battery x3 will this plug still work
Yes, your max draw is 60amp so this plug is perfect for your application. All the best!
Minn Kota® Powerdrive 55 lb. 54-Inch Trolling Motor will she fit ?
Absolutely!
Battery tender is the best plug by far. The marinco plug will not accept a large wire.
This plug will accept any of the AWG sizes recommended for any model of trolling motor. If your cable doesn't fit, you're not using the correct size wire.
Any concern with minn kota wire size? Plug says it's rated for 6 to 8ga and minnkota terova is 10ga
I would just go ahead and use the heavier gauge 8, won't hurt anything to go heavier than the 10 :)
@DanRichardFishing I didn't really specify...the stock wire coming out of my 2024 terrova is 10 ga. So butt splice a bigger wire from the trolling motor wire to the male plug? I've watched several videos installing this plug and it it seems to be looked over. Someone also said just to strip more wire and fold / twist to better fit the inserts if needed.
So when I got my Xi5 24v I just took the plug off my old TM and stuck it on the leads. Didn't think anything about. I noticed that it didn't seem to be getting 80 lbs of thrust. My old TM only thru 72lbs and it whipped the front end. Anyway I check the plug and it's rated 30 amps.
So I ordered the same 70 amp package that you used. My question is. Will I see more thrust?
And thanks for the video!
OH yes one more question. Can't one just trip the breaker instead of taking wires off?
Thanks
Hi Rickey, that's a very interesting question and it doesn't sound to me that despite having underrated plug (it's half of what you should be using) I don't *think* that would cause a huge drop in your thrust... by having the underrated plug, you're at a much higher risk of overheating and a fire, but until that happens it should still pull the amps. But what's weird is that the only difference is that you changed the plug right? So from one day to the next the power basically dropped and all you did was change the plug? Are you 100% sure that both your batteries are fully charged and voltage is stable when the TM is engaged? I'd definitely get the multimeter on your batteries when the motor is on AND I would test the leads on the plug to make sure you're getting a full draw.
For your breaker question, the MK one cannot be manually shut on and off like a home breaker switch for example. It's always on unless it trips from an overload/short and does not have a test button. If you prefer to have that kind of functionality, shop for a marine breaker with a test button. Hope that helps!
@@DanRichardFishing thank you for the information that I've been seeking. I bought this 2001 Triton TR20 from a guy who got it from the original owner. Now please understand I'm no electrician. One of my deep cycle went bad and was a maintenance free bat. To make a long story short, I discovered that the bat had gone dry. I started to trace the juice. Discovered that there were 2 50 amp breakers attached to the fire wall above the bats. I didn't know at the time that only 1 breaker was necessary. Well one had tripped but there was no flag. I ended up taking the breakers off and that's when I found the tripped one. Got new battery. Good to go.
Decided I wanted an anchor TM. The Xi5 recondmended a
60 amp breaker. So I bought two and changed them out. Put my meter at the plug 26volts. Put it on the bats. 25.8 volts.
But I haven't done it while the TM is in operation. I'll give that a try. I still don't believe I'm getting 80 lbs.
But I've been told my plug and recepical is coming this Saturday. So after watching your video it should be a breeze.
Also I finally got my R&R Slide plate. So I'll be really busy this Friday. Hopefully get er all done. For Saturday is opening morning for Spring Turkey.
I thank you for sharing your knowledge and I'll check out the active voltage and Amperage.
Take care.
Oh yes my breakers have the push buttons. I know now I didn't need two but I figure no harm. Right?
@@rickeycombest8211 Honestly, I would absolutely remove the second breaker as I'm not so sure that it couldn't potentially cause problems should there be an actual reason to trip it. There should only be 1 positive and 1 negative wire coming from your batteries that are in series so you should only have 1 breaker on the positive. I'd remove the extra.
How old was the battery that went dry, because that is definitely not normal. Was it leaking inside the boat?
For the thrust on the TM, I wouldn't look at how violent it pulls you over, I would look at the speed that it pulls the boat. Older trolling motors didn't ramp up speed, meaning if you had the speed up all the way and hit the pedal, it could throw you off the boat lol! Some newer TMs have a ramp up feature where instead of going full blast the second you step on the pedal, it gradually ramps up the power for a less jarring start. The Xi5 has that speed ramping up feature so that might be why you think it seems less powerful? Hope that helps!
@@DanRichardFishing no leak. The guy that I bought it from told me that he kept it on charge thru the winter. No acid leak. I believe it evaporated. Well doesn't matter got a new bat. And I only charge once every 30 in the winter. And check that water. Plus voltage put out. I'm good to go on all three bats.
I'm not quite sure how to remove one. There is a cross over and a positive hooked one one and the neg on the other. I'll figure it out. I ran the old TM with no breaker problems. I'll see what I can do. I paid good money for those breakers. But my TM is $2,000 plus. No brainer.
What gauge (size) cable does a 24v 80lb motor need?
Minimums are 8AWG up to 15 feet and 6AWG up to 25 feet. Personally I would recommend using 6AWG. You can check out this chart for more details: www.minnkotamotors.com/sites/minnkotamotors_site/files/min_productmanual_batt-wire-selct-gde1.pdf
You said red positive goes into #2
Does the negative go into #1 or maybe #3?
It actually doesn't matter as long as you match the numbers on the socket as you do on the plug :) Used #1 for neg :)
I'm YELLING @7:25 Take off the old waterproof cover lol
😂😂😂 yeah I totally didn't see it! When you've got half your brain making sure you're recording everything properly and keeping an eye on your gear and the other half is working on the task at hand you miss stupid stuff like that. I ended up cutting it off with the utility knife after hehe
I have a Garmin Force trolling motor and I would like to have a plug in transducer cable. Anyone doing this. I want to be able to pull out the power and transducer cables to take the trolling motor off the boat at times. I have the Garmin Force mounted to a Minn Kota quick release floor plate.
How do you like your force?? I am thinking of moving to that motor myself! Which quick release plate do you have? I was wondering if I could do that with my MK quick release plate I already have, I've got the Terrova one, part number MKA-10-02. Do you have that one or one of the longer styles?
For your transducer cable issue, what about just using a transducer extension like this? amzn.to/3Mt3mYE You could have the extension go from your unit to the trolling motor and plug in the trolling motor at the bow for easy disconnect later on. You'll have quite a bit of extra cable so you'll need to organize that out of the way.
@@DanRichardFishing I Haven’t used the Force yet. I just got it mounted Thursday and ordered the rest of my electrical components which most will arrive today and the Marinco 70A Trolling Motor Plug & Receptacle tomorrow. I used the Minn Kota MKA-42 quick release plate which matches the hole dimensions of the Force perfect. I want to remove the Force when the grandkids visit. This mounted on my pontoon boat so I don’t want them tripping on it.
PS: thanks for your great videos and help
Also, the Minn Kota quick release has a notch in the bottom for the tie down strap on the Garmin.
Will this work on a 60ah lithium battery
It's not really battery dependant so it should work on any battery to be honest.
@@DanRichardFishing ok cool and one more thing do you have a video or recommend quick connect for the lithium battery that I will be power the spot lock from
The wires on your troller are not as big as the Force. Good advice on the three screws.
I find it easier to leave one wire longer than the other. Also make sure the wire is seated in the Ferrel before you tighten the Allen screws. Once the Ferrel is crimped it is no good.
Great points Baker, thank you! As you said, it's SUPER important that the wires are properly seated all the way in to the ferrel before screwing it down. Thank you so much for the comment!
They are called crimp sleeves you can buy all you want at your local hardware store
What is the 3rd pin for?
While it's not common anymore, you used to be able to buy trolling motors that can be wired for 12v OR 24v. An example would be the older Minn Kota Vantage. On those kinds of trolling motors, the two wire was used for the 12v and the third wire would be installed for 24v. Nowadays, trolling motors are either 12, 24 or 36 etc and some new trolling motors like the Garmin Force will autodetect the voltage being used, the same motor will run on 24 or 36 with a 2 wire cable.
Dan Richard Fishing thanks for the info I have mere heard of that before
I cut mine out ran my cord thru a strain relief wired direct no plug not sure why you need a plug on a trolling motor that never gets taken off
Great video, the instructions were to small, I have bad eyesight. thank you
You're very welcome, I'm glad the video was helpful, thank you so much for the comment :)
Or trip the circuit breaker...?
You can't trip the circuit breaker to shut it on and off on the Minn Kota models.
Pigs don't sweat
😂😂 Wrong kind of pig... The term is actually derived from the iron smelting process in which hot iron poured on sand cools and solidifies with the pieces resembling a sow and piglets. Hence "pig iron". As the iron cools, the surrounding air reaches its dew point, and beads of moisture form on the surface of the "pigs". "Sweating like a pig" indicates that the "pig" (ie iron) has cooled enough to be safely handled. Is the internet awesome? :D
Noooooo the wire gets soldered in the sleeve the way you did it it can pull out. I see it's a year ago I can only hope you've fixed it by now
You are not supposed to solder connections on Marine applications, especially heavy gauge connections. It creates a weak breakpoint. There's actually an American Marine standards guide where it talks about this although admittingly it is heavily debated. Some people say You're supposed to, others say not to so I just stick to what I learned in the guide several years ago.
Wow, did not know about marine standards. New to Marine stuff. I guess I've got a lot to learn. Thanks
You've got to be kidding me! They included WIRE FERRULES! Marinco does it right! That old connector, idiots at Minn Kota cutting corners, has a spinning screw going into the conductors of the wire SPLAYING THE WIRE on the inside which means the connection is absolutely LOUSY.
Yeah I was actually impressed that the ferrules were included, this plug is really well done. Some other plugs I've seen are awful... the twist lock I had before was also useless, I was so glad I made this change!
I have that plug and it rusted out in one day. They are not water proof at all. Make sure you dont get any water on it.
I've had mine now for 3-years and it's been rained on, soaked, snowed on and there isn't a speck of rust on it and I actually took it off the other day to do some work and underneath the panel it was still like I just installed it. Sounds like you got a defective unit that didn't have the proper nickel coatings or something cuz that doesn't make any sense whatsoever.
Well, I bought a used boat and the connector was installed next to the front anchor locker vertical and its used in saltwater so the saltwater just runs right down into the connectors and short circuits it out. I'm hard wiring inside the anchor locker - these connectors are always a failure point at some point. Im going to use a re usable splice connector.@@DanRichardFishing
Pigs don’t sweat. It’s a fact…
Hi Edgar, the expression doesn't come from the animal, it comes from pig iron and how it would "sweat" when cooling. It's a fact ;)
That plug is junk I had to replace it 3 times and what to a regular push in plug and know I have no problems I have owned 5 bass boats and all of them had the push in plug and if you're in a kayak and taking your trolling motor off and on all the time that dam plug is junk just do your self a favor and get the push in plug
I've had that plug now for about a year and I actually disconnect it every time I'm done fishing and reconnect it when I'm out on the water and its still as good as new. And this is a push plug so I'm not exactly sure what you mean, the twist lock is the one that I took off and that one was complete junk.
@@DanRichardFishing ok my bag I do think you're dead on about twist one is junk sorry about that have a wonderful day and tight line's
This has some pretty bad reviews on Amazon 👎🏾
Great video, what is the dremel bit that you use for cutting the plate?