Nice video and insight for people that want to learn. Here’s a free tip. Safe the red straws of the brake cleaner cans and you can use them for little probes like checking the oil bore in the cam bearings. It prevents you from scratching the bearing surface. I use them for all kinds of stuff.
Great video really enjoyed just for you to know i could hear the heater but DID NOT affect me hearing or understanding anything you said thought you did a wonderful job controlling the noise from the heater thanks so much for taking the time to create this video it is a very valuable service that you provide i hope everyone watching understands the time and effort it takes to do what you do and understands just how much faster you could to the work if you were not videoing.
Great video J.C.Smith really enjoy watching you assemble this LS engine. Thanks for sharing your tips on this engine and looking forward to your next video stay safe Mr & Mrs J.C.Smith.
I just had to get one of those angle gauges when I did a afm lifters in a 6.2 I'm glad they make them so I didn't have to buy a new torque wrench. That nut trick for a Allen head saved me quite a few time. Great video
Currently rebuilding a Ford 302, I can certainly appreciate the LS. Way better access to the cam from underneath, less press-in core plugs, bolt-on rear cam plate. Though I do not like TTY fasteners.
Dear J.C. Smith projects family. I was the one commenting about your sweatshirt. But I didn't say that you need a new one. I asked where to buy these special ones with the built in ventilation louvers. But in this video I saw that the sweatshirt has become too short to cover the kidneys and the lower spine. Because that's very important and because you said that you have a lot of new sweatshirts laying around, I now vote for that you wear a new one. Please kindly allow me to suggest that you consider to do so. Best regards, luck and especially health to all 3 of you.
there was a couple others that said i needed new ones. they are just fine to me. i will wear them until there is nothing left to wear....or my wife cuts them into rags.
noticed you used the back side of finger for lubriplate on top main bearings i do it for a reason do as well use back side of finger some have never heard any reasons behind the use of rear rather than front side of finger most who do it have seen oldtimers do it and just do it but there is a reason most don't know
in my case its because the edges of my thumbs and first fingers are very rough. i use the other side and the backs as to not scratch the bearings. i know it seems unlikely but i have cut myself many times by the rough edges of my hands.
i don't know anything about LS motors other than replacing lifters and cams so far no bearing problems but there is a video on you tube about drilling and pinning the cam bearings to prevent moving not sure if just on aluminum blocks or racing just thought would mention it you might want to look into it just to be safe
Back when I was knee high to a grass hopper and doing engines, I don't remember cams and followers being as fragile as they are today, with the specialty lubricants and convoluted "break in" engine speeds and durations, and they still wipe out regularly.
I have a very good machine shop my work comes back clean and ready in bags. Way better stopped the redo bs. Cam bearings installed. Bolts included. Good bearings. Crevice cam lube included. Zinc break in additive in the box. Bought the angle torque wrenches for myself and son in law, worth every penny.
yeah these new engines arent like the old ones used to be cam bearings were all the same just make sure ya get the oil passage lined up an your good ok so the bearings in the LS go 12321 one end to the other if this is a bigger cam will you have to do some ecu adjustments?
we shouldnt need anything reprogrammed. it is a minor change in the cam. the ecm should be able to adapt to it easily. the idle may not be quite as smooth but it will me a minor change.
Just the way the manufacturer says to do it on these bolts. Torque to yield bolts stretch when angle torquing the bolt so the bolt is yielding and the torque in a foot pound measurement may not really increase even though you are turning the bolt.
all bolts stretch when torqued. difference between "torque angle" procedure and "torque to yield" bolts. torque to yield bolts are not reusable. torque angle is a more precise way to measure the clamping force. the 15lb ft torque wrench setting is just to "seat" the pieces together. a torque wrench measures the "resistance to turn" the bolt. that resistance can be affect by temperature, materials, dry or wet threads and so on. the "plus 51 degrees" means you are moving the bolt a predetermined and unaffected amount. this amount is engineered to account for the bolt size, material and clamping force needed.
TTY fasteners are superior in every way. Higher fastening strength, significantly higher fatigue life specifically in these high frequency applications like an engine. If you're rebuilding your engines so frequently that bolts are a major expense you're either racing (and you should already be prepared to spend money) or you're doing something wrong.
@@crabmansteve6844 I don't know man. If you follow manufacturer's repair instructions, you can't even replace a tensioner on the Audi/VW 2.0 turbo with its superior ALUMINUM TTY T45 bolts which torques to 5nm + 45 degrees. I've had tensioners on my LQ4s and L61s last me many hundreds of thousands of miles without needing to be replaced by "superior" bolts. Point is, it's an unnecessary expense. Plus, what's the absolute best aftermarket head bolts? ARP? Everyone raves about them anyways and you can reuse some of their head bolts from what I've heard. I'm not complaining about a bolt or two but when you need a hundred dollars worth of nuts and bolts to replace front struts or everything bolted to your engine because you have to remove it to fix an oil leak, it's ridiculous.
i agree. the cost can be substantial when the majority of the bolts are a one time use. i do however understand the reasoning for some of it. they push the limits of the materials being clamped to a point where the toque of the bolt must be perfect every time and you cant guarantee that with the traditional torque method. too many factors can affect it.
@@aman-fd9xx that's the whole problem. They used to make bolts that didn't stretch within their designed clamping load so you could reuse them for probably as long as the vehicle was on the road. Obviously critical bolts and hardware I would replace anyway but if manufacturers could get away with one time use wheel studs and lug nuts they would!
I am not an expert but it seems to me that your center cam bearing was 180 degrees out. You have one of the oil holes blocked the way it is installed. The oil groove in the casting is on the opposite side of the bearing hole. If I am wrong then I admit my ignorance.
there is only one oil feed hole in the journal of the block. those bearing have an extra hole that is not used. i was confused by it when i remove the original cam bearings too.
Why? Would you like to go into details and explain. I used to work in a heavy equipment shop and built lots of CAT engines, transmissions, torque converters and final drives and we used the exact same product and never had any issues.
@@j.c.smithprojects im sorry. I will explain best i can. White grease was the go to for a long time but there are better products now. White grease will go to the oil filter on startup and sit there till oil gets hot enough to melt it down and will cause filter bypass to open sending unfiltered oil through. This also causes oil not to heat in oil filter for longer periods. I would open up filters after flat tappet break in on some of the race engines and find grease so i switched to the "assembly lube" there are many to choose from and never looked back. Theres my 2 cents Mr J. Ive been wrenching 45+ years and was in the engine building business for many of those. The other side of it is all the bearing mfg companies sell liquid assembly lube not white grease im assuming for a reason
@@earleclemans4836Thanks for your input. I guess in automotive engines with only a couple quarts of oil and a small oil filter it might be an issue. The CAT engines I built used about 9 gallons of oil and the oil filter would hold a gallon. When I rebuilt my daughter’s Mini Cooper engine I did use Liquid Moly assembly lube.
@@cullenmiller8170 i am always amazed at people throttling a cold engine because that also opens filter bypass valve even on large engines. I spent 21 years at a deere dealership doing heavy line work and seen some nutty stuff
“We’re they groovy” that made me smile 😊
Nice video and insight for people that want to learn.
Here’s a free tip. Safe the red straws of the brake cleaner cans and you can use them for little probes like checking the oil bore in the cam bearings. It prevents you from scratching the bearing surface. I use them for all kinds of stuff.
Great video really enjoyed just for you to know i could hear the heater but DID NOT affect me hearing or understanding anything you said thought you did a wonderful job controlling the noise from the heater thanks so much for taking the time to create this video it is a very valuable service that you provide i hope everyone watching understands the time and effort it takes to do what you do and understands just how much faster you could to the work if you were not videoing.
i could have built the entire engine in the amount of time it takes to video what is needed to share. i appreciate the fact you understand.
Your shop does looks very clean to me. This LS Is going together nicely looking forward to seeing the next video JC and Mrs JC.
Really wish the captions were on so I would know what you were saying thanks for sharing your videos
Will be nice to hear this engine running after your done building it.
Great video J.C.Smith really enjoy watching you assemble this LS engine. Thanks for sharing your tips on this engine and looking forward to your next video stay safe Mr & Mrs J.C.Smith.
Being completely unfamiliar with the LS, I found this interesting. Did most of my automotive engine building back in the '80s and early '90s.
that is what i hope for.....someone finds it interesting.
Cam bearings are a pain. I usually drive the 3 in back then take the block down n do the front 2 from the back with the centering cone.
I just had to get one of those angle gauges when I did a afm lifters in a 6.2 I'm glad they make them so I didn't have to buy a new torque wrench. That nut trick for a Allen head saved me quite a few time. Great video
Geting the coolant drains out of an LS is key to flushing all that dex cool out of them. 😂
i pressure washed this block and had it flipped around in all different ways. not a chance of any coolant left in it.
Good vid ,,I Thought the outer bearing has to be lubed
Currently rebuilding a Ford 302, I can certainly appreciate the LS. Way better access to the cam from underneath, less press-in core plugs, bolt-on rear cam plate. Though I do not like TTY fasteners.
Hi JC thank you for sharing 😊
The locking taps are suppose to be together ( but to but ) not opposite
take that up with gm.
Wow. I was viewing this video and noticed how clean the shop looked!!! What's going on?
Thanks for the video J.C.
It would be nice if the tool had removable sections to make it shorter as you go
Cool Good Job...
Dear J.C. Smith projects family.
I was the one commenting about your sweatshirt. But I didn't say that you need a new one. I asked where to buy these special ones with the built in ventilation louvers. But in this video I saw that the sweatshirt has become too short to cover the kidneys and the lower spine. Because that's very important and because you said that you have a lot of new sweatshirts laying around, I now vote for that you wear a new one. Please kindly allow me to suggest that you consider to do so.
Best regards, luck and especially health to all 3 of you.
there was a couple others that said i needed new ones. they are just fine to me. i will wear them until there is nothing left to wear....or my wife cuts them into rags.
Man thank you!!!!! Those locator taps gave hell. In my mind, they should have lined up
noticed you used the back side of finger for lubriplate on top main bearings i do it for a reason do as well use back side of finger some have never heard any reasons behind the use of rear rather than front side of finger most who do it have seen oldtimers do it and just do it but there is a reason most don't know
in my case its because the edges of my thumbs and first fingers are very rough. i use the other side and the backs as to not scratch the bearings. i know it seems unlikely but i have cut myself many times by the rough edges of my hands.
i don't know anything about LS motors other than replacing lifters and cams so far no bearing problems but there is a video on you tube about drilling and pinning the cam bearings to prevent moving not sure if just on aluminum blocks or racing just thought would mention it you might want to look into it just to be safe
thanks for the tip. i dont think that is of concern on this engine. its all stock and the cam bearings had not previously spun.
Thank you
Excellent 💯
Back when I was knee high to a grass hopper and doing engines, I don't remember cams and followers being as fragile as they are today, with the specialty lubricants and convoluted "break in" engine speeds and durations, and they still wipe out regularly.
I have a very good machine shop my work comes back clean and ready in bags. Way better stopped the redo bs. Cam bearings installed. Bolts included. Good bearings. Crevice cam lube included. Zinc break in additive in the box. Bought the angle torque wrenches for myself and son in law, worth every penny.
Did you know that Lubriplate #105 comes in an aerosol spray?
yeah these new engines arent like the old ones used to be cam bearings were all the same just make sure ya get the oil passage lined up an your good ok so the bearings in the LS go 12321 one end to the other if this is a bigger cam will you have to do some ecu adjustments?
we shouldnt need anything reprogrammed. it is a minor change in the cam. the ecm should be able to adapt to it easily. the idle may not be quite as smooth but it will me a minor change.
Is Jeffrey ok?? Good video
ole boy is maintaining. not better. no worse but maintaining. i think that is all we can ask for.
I have sweat shirts like that from grinding.
I have never seen anyone tork to degrees before what is the purpose of that
Just the way the manufacturer says to do it on these bolts. Torque to yield bolts stretch when angle torquing the bolt so the bolt is yielding and the torque in a foot pound measurement may not really increase even though you are turning the bolt.
all bolts stretch when torqued. difference between "torque angle" procedure and "torque to yield" bolts. torque to yield bolts are not reusable. torque angle is a more precise way to measure the clamping force. the 15lb ft torque wrench setting is just to "seat" the pieces together. a torque wrench measures the "resistance to turn" the bolt. that resistance can be affect by temperature, materials, dry or wet threads and so on. the "plus 51 degrees" means you are moving the bolt a predetermined and unaffected amount. this amount is engineered to account for the bolt size, material and clamping force needed.
I miss the days when they could make bolts that were reusable. Garbage bolts these days having to be replaced due to TTY really adds up in cost.
TTY fasteners are superior in every way. Higher fastening strength, significantly higher fatigue life specifically in these high frequency applications like an engine.
If you're rebuilding your engines so frequently that bolts are a major expense you're either racing (and you should already be prepared to spend money) or you're doing something wrong.
@@crabmansteve6844 I don't know man. If you follow manufacturer's repair instructions, you can't even replace a tensioner on the Audi/VW 2.0 turbo with its superior ALUMINUM TTY T45 bolts which torques to 5nm + 45 degrees. I've had tensioners on my LQ4s and L61s last me many hundreds of thousands of miles without needing to be replaced by "superior" bolts. Point is, it's an unnecessary expense. Plus, what's the absolute best aftermarket head bolts? ARP? Everyone raves about them anyways and you can reuse some of their head bolts from what I've heard. I'm not complaining about a bolt or two but when you need a hundred dollars worth of nuts and bolts to replace front struts or everything bolted to your engine because you have to remove it to fix an oil leak, it's ridiculous.
i agree. the cost can be substantial when the majority of the bolts are a one time use. i do however understand the reasoning for some of it. they push the limits of the materials being clamped to a point where the toque of the bolt must be perfect every time and you cant guarantee that with the traditional torque method. too many factors can affect it.
@@dm-zx7xb bolts stretch one time only, they don't spring back to be used a second time.
@@aman-fd9xx that's the whole problem. They used to make bolts that didn't stretch within their designed clamping load so you could reuse them for probably as long as the vehicle was on the road. Obviously critical bolts and hardware I would replace anyway but if manufacturers could get away with one time use wheel studs and lug nuts they would!
I am not an expert but it seems to me that your center cam bearing was 180 degrees out. You have one of the oil holes blocked the way it is installed. The oil groove in the casting is on the opposite side of the bearing hole. If I am wrong then I admit my ignorance.
there is only one oil feed hole in the journal of the block. those bearing have an extra hole that is not used. i was confused by it when i remove the original cam bearings too.
What is wrong with the sweatshirt you have an extra pocket,
I never understood why people don't put cams and bearings in with the bore axis vertical, seems so much easier.
agreed. common habit of wanting to get it on the stand is my guess.
Maybe thr Mrs could mend your sweatshirt.
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP
White grease is a no go
Why? Would you like to go into details and explain. I used to work in a heavy equipment shop and built lots of CAT engines, transmissions, torque converters and final drives and we used the exact same product and never had any issues.
@@j.c.smithprojects im sorry. I will explain best i can. White grease was the go to for a long time but there are better products now. White grease will go to the oil filter on startup and sit there till oil gets hot enough to melt it down and will cause filter bypass to open sending unfiltered oil through. This also causes oil not to heat in oil filter for longer periods. I would open up filters after flat tappet break in on some of the race engines and find grease so i switched to the "assembly lube" there are many to choose from and never looked back. Theres my 2 cents Mr J. Ive been wrenching 45+ years and was in the engine building business for many of those. The other side of it is all the bearing mfg companies sell liquid assembly lube not white grease im assuming for a reason
@@earleclemans4836Thanks for your input. I guess in automotive engines with only a couple quarts of oil and a small oil filter it might be an issue. The CAT engines I built used about 9 gallons of oil and the oil filter would hold a gallon.
When I rebuilt my daughter’s Mini Cooper engine I did use Liquid Moly assembly lube.
@@cullenmiller8170 i am always amazed at people throttling a cold engine because that also opens filter bypass valve even on large engines. I spent 21 years at a deere dealership doing heavy line work and seen some nutty stuff
I'm glad that block plug came out without too much hassle J.C 🔧🔩 Nice work with the reassembly 🙂👍