First, thank you, GREATLY, for this informative, and fully "immersive", video. This is something that should probably be available for every classification/scale of RC racing...not just for cars, but EVERY vehicle/vessel type. For those getting into RC racing, or those (like myself) just getting into a new type of RC racing, this type of information is truly invaluable. When I first got into RC racing (1/10 off-road clay, at that point in time) approx 6yrs ago, something like this would have saved me (and others) a LOT of time, 'suffering', and wasted money. So, again, THANK YOU !!! With that said, thanks to my former next door neighbor, my step-dad & I are about to get into Mini-Z racing. Before I moved, he gifted me 2 MR-03 cars, as well as an RCP Mini96 track (I didn't find out about the track until it showed up at the new address a little over a week after I moved)...so, those cars will be for "Box Stock" racing. In the meantime, I also picked up an MR-03 EVO SP with the 8500kv motor, which I will use for a "Stock" class car. Now, before anyone comments on my motor choice, I should 'explain' that this chassis is factory-configured with a 98mm wheelbase, whereas the 5600kv version has a 94mm wheelbase...and, the 8500kv motor will NOT be used (at least in this chassis), as I also ordered the XSpeed 4100kv motor. For the two "Box Stock" vehicles, I will only be upgrading parts as allowed. On the other hand, regarding the "Stock" car, that will be upgraded to the limits of what "Stock" class allows. So, why did I bother mentioning everything mentioned in the previous paragraph? Because, after watching this video, I can see that, with the exception of my own personal 'timeline' (which I'll explain in a minute), I "lucked out" in following almost everything described in this video...almost as if I had seen the video weeks ago, and then followed what was said. If I were to take everything covered in the video, but apply it to...say...1/10 off-road 2WD buggy racing, it would fit perfectly with how I, and others, progressed. It is because of that that I know the info in this video is 100% accurate...and, why I intend to follow it for Mini-Z racing. Quickly (and, very shortly) getting back to my personal 'timeline', and why I already picked up, and am already building up, a "Stock" class vehicle...even though I have yet to race any Mini-Z car, I'll say this. Exactly as mentioned in this video, it is "recommended" for those new to Mini-Z racing, but already familiar with RC racing, to start with "Box Stock", and a 'basic' MR-03. However, the video also states that those same people 'could' start with, or quickly progress to, a slightly higher class vehicle. For that reason, I have already purchased that car, and will start practicing with it within 1-2 months after I start "Box Stock". In other words, while I will not start racing with it, I will be practicing, so that, within a few months, I will be ready to race it. Than, I can simultaneously compete in more than one class.
Thank you very much for the review of the chassis and recommendations. I used to race 1/12 scale cars and it was so hard watching new people come in with something they bought, ran at home in the street, buy a big motor, and then show up at the track. They would instantly spin out as the tires were hard as rocks, they had WAY too much power and didn't know how to set up their car. We would help them, and give them a used stock motor we use for various utilities. Teach them how to clean the tires, cut them to size, and gradually give the cars power. They didn't like putting in an old used stock motor but were amazed at how fast the car was.
Really like this video. Great information. I’ve got 15 years with RC helicopters and drones but at 70 my eye sight isn’t as good and switched to Mini Z’S a few months ago. Bought a Mini Z EVO with an 8500kv. Absolutely could not handle it, crash more than not. Purchased a 4100kv motor and what a difference. Have a carpeted 8x12 foot track at home practice 10 to 15 minute runs a few times per day. Your recommendations are right on point. Thanks for sharing
Fantastic video sir! Much more comprehensive than I could ever provide. Lol. This is a must watch for every person looking to get into Mini Z - 1/28th racing
Very good summary. To those new to this scale: too fast makes your car look like a ball in a pinball machine. Not fun for you nor for the other on the track with you.
Great video. I often have discussions with racers about the motor options, and running a higher KV motor with lower throttle EPA. Personally, I always use 100% throttle EPA. I much prefer tuning the power level with motor choice and ESC punch settings than lowering EPA on the transmitter to make the car drivable. The TX EPA adjustment is a last resort on the fly adjustment, where I would only adjust if traction dropped drastically leading into the run that I am making and I am spinning up too much. Fast motors with low throttle EPA have a completely different range where they make their power compared to slower motors with full throttle EPA. The most I would say to turn down the motor would be to around 80%, if you find you are going lower than that, then you are on the wrong motor. Lipo cars: For small circuits, 3500-4500kv motors may be the fastest way around the track. Going to a faster motor, will often lead to more spinup getting on throttle, and less feel of the car coming out of the throttle into the corners. Often in the mid corner, a touch of throttle is used to balance the car to transfer mass in preparation for acceleration off the corner, with a faster motor, that balance point will come earlier in the throttle band. On the smaller circuit, the corners often tend to have lower minimum speeds, and tighter radius... For medium sized circuits, 4500-5500kv motors tend to be fastest. 4500 geared well for the circuit can also be really good for lower grip large circuits where you want a little less punch, but still good mid range power for the straightaways. Large circuits, 5500-6500 motors tend to dominate this area. I have really been liking the new GL 6000 motor which seems to have a similar feel of power to the 5500, but just a bit more legs on the top end. 5500 I often would be between 10 and 11t /53 gearing, where 10t may feel just a bit short but 11t too tall. 6000 with 10/53 is what I have been preferring recently. A 4500 can still do well on larger tracks, with gearing around 12/53... however, I feel that in this scale 10/53 gearing is close to optimal, and going taller in the gear loses a little more response with the car and how the power opens up... much like running lower throttle EPA, there is a loss in connection with the car as you move towards a taller gear, and driver connection with the car is lost a little. The connection with the car is where consistency comes from, and I often value the feel and consistency over a faster laptime. One crash can lose 10 laps worth of work at a couple tenths faster pace.
As a rookie I started with a GLR and had alot of fun after changing to a more suitable motor (3500kv). A GLR without much tuning is a very easy to drive car. Absolute beginners may be better off with a AAA type of car but if you know how to build an rc car and have some driving experience the good old GLR is a very nimble and low maintenance car.
Something that I didn't cover in any detail is where the Kyosho brushless motors on NiMH that come with the EVO cars map into the recommendations. Kyosho brushless motors run a little slower than a similar Kv rated aftermarket motor. Running on NiMH (not LiPo): A 4100Kv Kyosho motor is roughly around the Kyosho box stock brushed or 3500Kv aftermarket motor. A 5600Kv Kyosho motor is in between a 3500Kv and 5500Kv aftermarket An 8500Kv Kyosho motor is somewhere around a 7500Kv aftermarket A 12000Kv Kyosho motor is somewhere above a 9500Kv aftermarket The Kyosho motors require a different mounting scheme as they don't have screw holes for mounting, so very few chassis/motor pods can use them. Also they are generally not popular in higher classes for competitive racing, as once folks move up to a LiPO battery they are usually looking at a non MR-03 chassis which requires a motor that has screws for mounting. For those looking to buy an EVO starting out, the 4100Kv and at most 5600Kv would be options. There's really not a good fit for an 8500Kv or above motor on NiMH as by that time most racers will want to switch to LiPO batteries. The 12000kv is pretty crazy, maybe for the Japanese market, but no one should be a buying a 8500Kv let alone a 12000Kv EVO starting out or running on a small home sized track.
Have a questions? For a new driver this video is on point. What is your experience or recommendations with upgrading your Transmitter instead of your car for new Mini Drivers
Hello. I am very new to the hobby and am very fortunate to have come accross your channel. You have a lot of good informational videos that will help me in my new journey. Forgive my newb question however, what are the advantages/gains of having an aluminum tie rod and knuckles for your box stock? Any light that you can shed on the subject is greatly appreciated 🙏
This content that you're making is well organized and thought out, but it's kind of buried on your channel. Would you be kind enough to make a play list of all of the tutorials and non racing content you've put together?
People or so stupid, always wanting to start at the top in anything , not just RC cars , gotta start at the bottom & learn the game before even thinking about racing, lol , get a box stock mr 03 and grow from there !!! Smh
First, thank you, GREATLY, for this informative, and fully "immersive", video. This is something that should probably be available for every classification/scale of RC racing...not just for cars, but EVERY vehicle/vessel type. For those getting into RC racing, or those (like myself) just getting into a new type of RC racing, this type of information is truly invaluable. When I first got into RC racing (1/10 off-road clay, at that point in time) approx 6yrs ago, something like this would have saved me (and others) a LOT of time, 'suffering', and wasted money. So, again, THANK YOU !!!
With that said, thanks to my former next door neighbor, my step-dad & I are about to get into Mini-Z racing. Before I moved, he gifted me 2 MR-03 cars, as well as an RCP Mini96 track (I didn't find out about the track until it showed up at the new address a little over a week after I moved)...so, those cars will be for "Box Stock" racing. In the meantime, I also picked up an MR-03 EVO SP with the 8500kv motor, which I will use for a "Stock" class car. Now, before anyone comments on my motor choice, I should 'explain' that this chassis is factory-configured with a 98mm wheelbase, whereas the 5600kv version has a 94mm wheelbase...and, the 8500kv motor will NOT be used (at least in this chassis), as I also ordered the XSpeed 4100kv motor. For the two "Box Stock" vehicles, I will only be upgrading parts as allowed. On the other hand, regarding the "Stock" car, that will be upgraded to the limits of what "Stock" class allows.
So, why did I bother mentioning everything mentioned in the previous paragraph? Because, after watching this video, I can see that, with the exception of my own personal 'timeline' (which I'll explain in a minute), I "lucked out" in following almost everything described in this video...almost as if I had seen the video weeks ago, and then followed what was said. If I were to take everything covered in the video, but apply it to...say...1/10 off-road 2WD buggy racing, it would fit perfectly with how I, and others, progressed. It is because of that that I know the info in this video is 100% accurate...and, why I intend to follow it for Mini-Z racing.
Quickly (and, very shortly) getting back to my personal 'timeline', and why I already picked up, and am already building up, a "Stock" class vehicle...even though I have yet to race any Mini-Z car, I'll say this. Exactly as mentioned in this video, it is "recommended" for those new to Mini-Z racing, but already familiar with RC racing, to start with "Box Stock", and a 'basic' MR-03. However, the video also states that those same people 'could' start with, or quickly progress to, a slightly higher class vehicle. For that reason, I have already purchased that car, and will start practicing with it within 1-2 months after I start "Box Stock". In other words, while I will not start racing with it, I will be practicing, so that, within a few months, I will be ready to race it. Than, I can simultaneously compete in more than one class.
Thank you very much for the review of the chassis and recommendations. I used to race 1/12 scale cars and it was so hard watching new people come in with something they bought, ran at home in the street, buy a big motor, and then show up at the track. They would instantly spin out as the tires were hard as rocks, they had WAY too much power and didn't know how to set up their car. We would help them, and give them a used stock motor we use for various utilities. Teach them how to clean the tires, cut them to size, and gradually give the cars power. They didn't like putting in an old used stock motor but were amazed at how fast the car was.
Really like this video. Great information. I’ve got 15 years with RC helicopters and drones but at 70 my eye sight isn’t as good and switched to Mini Z’S a few months ago. Bought a Mini Z EVO with an 8500kv. Absolutely could not handle it, crash more than not. Purchased a 4100kv motor and what a difference. Have a carpeted 8x12 foot track at home practice 10 to 15 minute runs a few times per day. Your recommendations are right on point. Thanks for sharing
Wow how things have moved on in the mini z world,having retired as a 3 time uk champ feeling that I’ve retired tooooo early 😂awsome video dude 👍
The amount of knowledge here is incredible. Thank you so much
Fantastic video sir! Much more comprehensive than I could ever provide. Lol. This is a must watch for every person looking to get into Mini Z - 1/28th racing
We were just messaging each other bout this exact thing!!
Very good summary. To those new to this scale: too fast makes your car look like a ball in a pinball machine. Not fun for you nor for the other on the track with you.
Great resource, just getting into 1/28 and this helps a ton!
Great video. Thank you! Will be shared with my local club
Great video.
I often have discussions with racers about the motor options, and running a higher KV motor with lower throttle EPA. Personally, I always use 100% throttle EPA. I much prefer tuning the power level with motor choice and ESC punch settings than lowering EPA on the transmitter to make the car drivable. The TX EPA adjustment is a last resort on the fly adjustment, where I would only adjust if traction dropped drastically leading into the run that I am making and I am spinning up too much.
Fast motors with low throttle EPA have a completely different range where they make their power compared to slower motors with full throttle EPA. The most I would say to turn down the motor would be to around 80%, if you find you are going lower than that, then you are on the wrong motor.
Lipo cars:
For small circuits, 3500-4500kv motors may be the fastest way around the track. Going to a faster motor, will often lead to more spinup getting on throttle, and less feel of the car coming out of the throttle into the corners. Often in the mid corner, a touch of throttle is used to balance the car to transfer mass in preparation for acceleration off the corner, with a faster motor, that balance point will come earlier in the throttle band. On the smaller circuit, the corners often tend to have lower minimum speeds, and tighter radius...
For medium sized circuits, 4500-5500kv motors tend to be fastest. 4500 geared well for the circuit can also be really good for lower grip large circuits where you want a little less punch, but still good mid range power for the straightaways.
Large circuits, 5500-6500 motors tend to dominate this area. I have really been liking the new GL 6000 motor which seems to have a similar feel of power to the 5500, but just a bit more legs on the top end. 5500 I often would be between 10 and 11t /53 gearing, where 10t may feel just a bit short but 11t too tall. 6000 with 10/53 is what I have been preferring recently.
A 4500 can still do well on larger tracks, with gearing around 12/53... however, I feel that in this scale 10/53 gearing is close to optimal, and going taller in the gear loses a little more response with the car and how the power opens up... much like running lower throttle EPA, there is a loss in connection with the car as you move towards a taller gear, and driver connection with the car is lost a little. The connection with the car is where consistency comes from, and I often value the feel and consistency over a faster laptime. One crash can lose 10 laps worth of work at a couple tenths faster pace.
Hey great video thanks for the info!
As a rookie I started with a GLR and had alot of fun after changing to a more suitable motor (3500kv). A GLR without much tuning is a very easy to drive car. Absolute beginners may be better off with a AAA type of car but if you know how to build an rc car and have some driving experience the good old GLR is a very nimble and low maintenance car.
Something that I didn't cover in any detail is where the Kyosho brushless motors on NiMH that come with the EVO cars map into the recommendations. Kyosho brushless motors run a little slower than a similar Kv rated aftermarket motor.
Running on NiMH (not LiPo):
A 4100Kv Kyosho motor is roughly around the Kyosho box stock brushed or 3500Kv aftermarket motor.
A 5600Kv Kyosho motor is in between a 3500Kv and 5500Kv aftermarket
An 8500Kv Kyosho motor is somewhere around a 7500Kv aftermarket
A 12000Kv Kyosho motor is somewhere above a 9500Kv aftermarket
The Kyosho motors require a different mounting scheme as they don't have screw holes for mounting, so very few chassis/motor pods can use them. Also they are generally not popular in higher classes for competitive racing, as once folks move up to a LiPO battery they are usually looking at a non MR-03 chassis which requires a motor that has screws for mounting.
For those looking to buy an EVO starting out, the 4100Kv and at most 5600Kv would be options. There's really not a good fit for an 8500Kv or above motor on NiMH as by that time most racers will want to switch to LiPO batteries. The 12000kv is pretty crazy, maybe for the Japanese market, but no one should be a buying a 8500Kv let alone a 12000Kv EVO starting out or running on a small home sized track.
Thank you so much this is what I was looking for between you and @theshopminirc with his insider view of products
Absolutely fantastic video and advice.
Very well done video on the topic and it's recommendation could apply to a lot of stuff and hobbies. Much appreciated.
Have a questions? For a new driver this video is on point. What is your experience or recommendations with upgrading your Transmitter instead of your car for new Mini Drivers
Hello. I am very new to the hobby and am very fortunate to have come accross your channel. You have a lot of good informational videos that will help me in my new journey. Forgive my newb question however, what are the advantages/gains of having an aluminum tie rod and knuckles for your box stock? Any light that you can shed on the subject is greatly appreciated 🙏
hi i have mini z fiarlady z nimso S tune MR03 wheelbase =94mm Narrow, can i fit a ferrari 458 gt2 body on it ? thanks
Thanks for this valuable information. Great Vid
Well done Sir!!!!
Still the best video on Mini Z
Thanks for this video!!! Wish I would’ve seen it before I got my 3500kv Lipo car. Lol
This content that you're making is well organized and thought out, but it's kind of buried on your channel. Would you be kind enough to make a play list of all of the tutorials and non racing content you've put together?
playlist is already here: ua-cam.com/play/PLuhgGkoo0o1iDRNtJ1K5bZgpBR2DxVao9.html
@@insidelineracingracevideos4333 Thanks a bunch!
Are there any spec races with reduced max speeds, so it’s closer to scale speeds? Is it possible to reduce the max speed on the cars?
Superb
Most people think they can run before they can walk. That usually doesn' t turn out too well for them.
First
People or so stupid, always wanting to start at the top in anything , not just RC cars , gotta start at the bottom & learn the game before even thinking about racing, lol , get a box stock mr 03 and grow from there !!! Smh