For future DIYers: I pulled out the engine mounts to the covered bolt out. I was able to get the passenger side engine mount out by securing the drivers side mount, loosening the top of the front mount, and still lifting from the transmission. It was easier to work on everything with the strut assembly removed and it doesn’t take that long to take them out. Definitely have new sway bar links on hand as I had to cut mine off. I ended up replacing my strut assemblies, and when I put everything back together my tires were visibly out of alignment. They were so bad that I thought I had used the wrong parts. When I drove it in for an alignment the steering wheel was turned 30 degrees to the right and the tires would constantly squeal when I got above 10 mph. But after the alignment everything was perfect again. Took me about 8 hours to do in my garage.
Thank you I thought I had torque my engine mounts too much or the left side castle but in top of the ball joint I loosened just a bit so cotter pin aligned and now I’m getting a noise from that side.. I couldn’t find torque specs in my specific car so I just tinged everything up so much as I could… now I forgot to order inner and jutted tie rod and just replaced everything else same problem haven’t aligned it 😅 thinking I installed wrong probably not
Pretty good, now do that while the car is on Jack stands and you have next to nothing for space and leverage lol. For DIY, WATCH WHERE THE ENGINE IS GOING ON TOP. I disconnect the battery first before raising the engine. Why? Because the starter power terminal nut will also go up and touch any metal surface and fire works, really, FIRE. Ask me how I know lol. Also it's easier to pull the mount out altogether, it's already out just remove it.
I bought a entire TRQ front suspension kit ( lower control arm, inner n outer tie-rods, ball joints ) and have had to replaced everything in a year. 2002 Toyota Camry V6 SE
Thank you for this video I wish I would have seen this sooner to change the lower control arm because I just did motor mounts and had I known I was going to do the lower control arm I would have done that along with the side motor mount... The motor mounts were kind of a Pita honestly. But I appreciate this video! I'll be following it tomorrow in the morning when I start the project
You didn't show or mention removing tie rod end or hub nut just putting them back on. Why not just remove the motor mount as it would make it a lot easier than forcing bolts back in place plus more room to work.
Is there a motor mount in the way on the driver's side as well? By the way, GFREAT video. Simple, to the point, every step is clear and easy to understand! Thank you!
Ok! Ok! Take your time on this don’t stress out! Don’t do this on a hot day! The bolts have a good amount of threads so 15min each on and off. You need a breaker bar on wrench or ratchet! If you’re going to do this you should be replacing ball joint, tie rod, shock, all suspension parts otherwise you wasting time!
10:48 put lug nuts to protect the threads on the wheel studs and use something less "elastic" than pry bar (I was afraid it gonna jump out) for torque up to 150 foot pounds I used a reputable brand Allen key (usually 10mm) placed between the cooling fins of the rotor and resting against the caliper bracket
Just did the whole job and I'm having a little trouble getting the ball joint back in the lower control arm I just replaced. I drank heavily before this install. When the hell did we remove the axel nut?
Great video. The lower driver's side engine mount nuts spin when I use a torque wrench on them. Has anyone encountered this and found a solution? I can't figure it out and would prefer not to cut anything. I appreciate it
How long of a job is this? The book says 8 hrs but I thats with removing the motor and trans. How long is it hours wise doing it like shown in the video, just lifting the motor and replacing the arm like that?...thanks
So how long would it take to replace both control arms on an 06 Toyota Camry doing it exactly the way you just did it?... The book says it's 8 hours of Labor but how long did it actually take??
For a first timer, limited tools, limited knowledge, figure a week end and lots of swearing. I have done it multiple times so about 6-8 hours both sides in my home garage with Milwaukee impacts, and car on Jack stands. Worst part is limited visibility. And space, unlike a lift where everything is right there. If it's on a lift with experience it's probably 4 hours assuming not seized or rusted bolts. That's why the make it 8 hours to account for the unexpected.
Does anyone know if that is the transmission mount that he loosened to access the bolt? I want to replace it if it basically has to come off, but I want to order the correct one.
Who uses torque wrenches ? I just do 4-5 uga ugas with a impact and it’s good! Also can’t stand this bs, take all that time to do that but can’t even wire wheel the rusty stuff and throw some paint on it at least we-40 or something, nope just out rust back on good metal, let it rot out who cares
Of course nobody changes the ball joint which is the one difficult part that help to be shown its stupid to do this and not replace it as well when most control arms come with it anyway
7:22 BE VERY, VERY careful hammering that bolt back in. Because inside, its a basic welded square it mounts to. Absolute stupid design. 148 ft pounds, on something with a couple tac welds? So the welds on mine failed, I had to angle grind from under, and put a proper washer/nut inside.
Any other ideas to get the ball joint off? I've used everything I can think of, pickle fork, pry bar, I haven't removed the axle. But even so, the ball joint is almost as if it's welded because it's never been replaced. Do you think cutting before the castle nut will help?
I had issues myself, between a prybar, hammers, vice grips, and ultimately used a pitman arm puller in conjunction with a mallet and force it loosened the castle nut then the taper slowly creeped its way out. (I see this is an old comment, posting for anyone else who had similar issues) too lol
I just took a 2 lb sledge to the side of it (solid metal) you have to turn the wheel so it will be easy to swing at. But 3-4 good solid hits works every time
I wound up using the PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator from Harbour Freight. Using the castle nut loosened enough to get the Separator Tool on and enough to pop the ball joint off.
NEVER take a hammer to a bolt unless you have more hardware handy in case you completely strip the bolt of threads by hammering into into a misaligned hole in a bushing/subframe.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
For future DIYers:
I pulled out the engine mounts to the covered bolt out.
I was able to get the passenger side engine mount out by securing the drivers side mount, loosening the top of the front mount, and still lifting from the transmission.
It was easier to work on everything with the strut assembly removed and it doesn’t take that long to take them out.
Definitely have new sway bar links on hand as I had to cut mine off.
I ended up replacing my strut assemblies, and when I put everything back together my tires were visibly out of alignment. They were so bad that I thought I had used the wrong parts. When I drove it in for an alignment the steering wheel was turned 30 degrees to the right and the tires would constantly squeal when I got above 10 mph. But after the alignment everything was perfect again.
Took me about 8 hours to do in my garage.
Thank you I thought I had torque my engine mounts too much or the left side castle but in top of the ball joint I loosened just a bit so cotter pin aligned and now I’m getting a noise from that side.. I couldn’t find torque specs in my specific car so I just tinged everything up so much as I could… now I forgot to order inner and jutted tie rod and just replaced everything else same problem haven’t aligned it 😅 thinking I installed wrong probably not
Pretty good, now do that while the car is on Jack stands and you have next to nothing for space and leverage lol.
For DIY, WATCH WHERE THE ENGINE IS GOING ON TOP. I disconnect the battery first before raising the engine. Why? Because the starter power terminal nut will also go up and touch any metal surface and fire works, really, FIRE. Ask me how I know lol. Also it's easier to pull the mount out altogether, it's already out just remove it.
I bought a entire TRQ front suspension kit ( lower control arm, inner n outer tie-rods, ball joints ) and have had to replaced everything in a year.
2002 Toyota Camry V6 SE
Thank you for this video I wish I would have seen this sooner to change the lower control arm because I just did motor mounts and had I known I was going to do the lower control arm I would have done that along with the side motor mount... The motor mounts were kind of a Pita honestly. But I appreciate this video!
I'll be following it tomorrow in the morning when I start the project
You didn't show or mention removing tie rod end or hub nut just putting them back on. Why not just remove the motor mount as it would make it a lot easier than forcing bolts back in place plus more room to work.
I just took the mount off completely it was easy and didn't have to use a wrench. And did not need a hammer for the long bolt it slid right in.
Thank you for sharing a very detailed video. Much appreciated!
Is there a motor mount in the way on the driver's side as well? By the way, GFREAT video. Simple, to the point, every step is clear and easy to understand! Thank you!
Ok! Ok! Take your time on this don’t stress out! Don’t do this on a hot day! The bolts have a good amount of threads so 15min each on and off. You need a breaker bar on wrench or ratchet! If you’re going to do this you should be replacing ball joint, tie rod, shock, all suspension parts otherwise you wasting time!
Worst design ever who decided to put the control arms under engine mounts
You don’t have to remove the torque mount on top of the engine before you jack the engine up?
10:48 put lug nuts to protect the threads on the wheel studs and use something less "elastic" than pry bar (I was afraid it gonna jump out) for torque up to 150 foot pounds I used a reputable brand Allen key (usually 10mm) placed between the cooling fins of the rotor and resting against the caliper bracket
Just did the whole job and I'm having a little trouble getting the ball joint back in the lower control arm I just replaced. I drank heavily before this install. When the hell did we remove the axel nut?
Thank you for all details 👍👍👍
Damn, you did an excellent job. 👍
+Chuckaluck Too Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Great video. The lower driver's side engine mount nuts spin when I use a torque wrench on them. Has anyone encountered this and found a solution? I can't figure it out and would prefer not to cut anything.
I appreciate it
Just did my tie rods, they were bad. Carvstill clunks. Might need to do this next
+@latafairam Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
mans has a vendetta against bolt threads
What are the symptoms of a bad control arm in a Camry?
How long of a job is this? The book says 8 hrs but I thats with removing the motor and trans. How long is it hours wise doing it like shown in the video, just lifting the motor and replacing the arm like that?...thanks
This appears to be the same procedure for 07-11 Camry as well.
Yeah, I did it on a 2009. Toyota cars are the same
So how long would it take to replace both control arms on an 06 Toyota Camry doing it exactly the way you just did it?... The book says it's 8 hours of Labor but how long did it actually take??
For a first timer, limited tools, limited knowledge, figure a week end and lots of swearing. I have done it multiple times so about 6-8 hours both sides in my home garage with Milwaukee impacts, and car on Jack stands. Worst part is limited visibility. And space, unlike a lift where everything is right there. If it's on a lift with experience it's probably 4 hours assuming not seized or rusted bolts. That's why the make it 8 hours to account for the unexpected.
Don't forget to loose upper motor mount ather way will demege
I forgot to installed a spacer on my new controll arm. Will it be fine
Car needs alignment after this work ?
Yes
Does anyone know if that is the transmission mount that he loosened to access the bolt? I want to replace it if it basically has to come off, but I want to order the correct one.
Who uses torque wrenches ? I just do 4-5 uga ugas with a impact and it’s good!
Also can’t stand this bs, take all that time to do that but can’t even wire wheel the rusty stuff and throw some paint on it at least we-40 or something, nope just out rust back on good metal, let it rot out who cares
that's 99% of mechanics... I'd clean it all up and apply some dialectic silicone at least to keep the new rubber new
What kind of pole jack are you using? Got a link?
Of course nobody changes the ball joint which is the one difficult part that help to be shown its stupid to do this and not replace it as well when most control arms come with it anyway
I had this done to my car and now have a coolant leak not sure from where could anyone point me to the right direction?
just take the transmission mount off at the top also.....
How long did it take you?
How much does this tend to cost?
7:22 BE VERY, VERY careful hammering that bolt back in. Because inside, its a basic welded square it mounts to. Absolute stupid design. 148 ft pounds, on something with a couple tac welds?
So the welds on mine failed, I had to angle grind from under, and put a proper washer/nut inside.
Why did you take the axle nut off?
Probably to torque down something
They're worried about the rotor assembly yanking the cv joint out. Plus to give room. I e. Moving it around while working
I don’t think my bushing looks anything like that at all.
Any other ideas to get the ball joint off? I've used everything I can think of, pickle fork, pry bar, I haven't removed the axle. But even so, the ball joint is almost as if it's welded because it's never been replaced. Do you think cutting before the castle nut will help?
I had issues myself, between a prybar, hammers, vice grips, and ultimately used a pitman arm puller in conjunction with a mallet and force it loosened the castle nut then the taper slowly creeped its way out. (I see this is an old comment, posting for anyone else who had similar issues) too lol
Map torch
I just took a 2 lb sledge to the side of it (solid metal) you have to turn the wheel so it will be easy to swing at. But 3-4 good solid hits works every time
get one of those pitman pullers... like $20-$30 and well worth having
I wound up using the PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator from Harbour Freight. Using the castle nut loosened enough to get the Separator Tool on and enough to pop the ball joint off.
jesus, dont hammer bolts in or out, great way to screw up threads. just use a punch or tapered pin to align the holes first you butcher.
NEVER take a hammer to a bolt unless you have more hardware handy in case you completely strip the bolt of threads by hammering into into a misaligned hole in a bushing/subframe.
I don't know how he didn't strip those bolts