Toyota Corolla Replacing the Control Arm Left Side
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2024
- How to fix a clunk when braking, I diagnosed this as needing control arms, this is part 2 of 2 videos. Please use my Amazon Affiliate link and help support my channel:
Lower Control arm kit: amzn.to/3H269Xq
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Torque specs:
Steering knuckle at Shock absorber 113ft
Suspension support at Piston rod 34 ft
Suspension support at 29ft
Suspension cross member at Body Bolt A: 116 ft
Suspension cross member at Body Bolt B: 83ft
Suspension cross member at Transverse engine, engine
mounting insulator 38ft
Steering knuckle at Lower ball joint 76 ft
Lower suspension arm at Lower ball joint 66ft
Lower suspension arm at Suspension cross member 101ft
Wheel lug nut 76ft
Danny i stumbled upon this channel last night and im blown away by the amount of detail and effort you put in. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge with us
Welcome aboard! Appreciate your support
The editing and angles lightning continuity great cinematography
God bless you for making these videos to help others. I keep coming back to watch them as this is my first time tackling it. Please do not edit out any parts that you ran into difficulties. We need to learn from them. Thank you.
You’re welcome, thanks for commenting
You saved me a lot of money. Thank you so much for the video, I wasted 2 hours to figure it out until I found this video. I tried everything to take that bolt out.
You’re welcome, glad I could make your life a little easier 🍺
Yeah, me too, jajajajaja
We ran into the same issue with the bolt and decided to drop the transmission pan instead. Definitely messier but came out like a charm and saved us from having to break a lot of bolts loose to life the transmission. The idea of widening the spaces where the control arm came out are definitely a plus! Thanks.
@@loptixl That is what I was thinking because I have issue remembering all those nuts and bolts need to go back the same way. Can you confirm drop the pan has enough clearance. I may need to change the transmission filter anyway and perform Drain and Fill. Thanks in advance.
@@loptixl i have a standard transmision,i wonder if i might get lucky and have clearance to get that one out
Thanks for the video!! Saved my parents over 500 in labor cost. You really helped me out alot! Thanks again!!
Glad I could help! ♥️
Dude I gotta give u a lot of credit for being able to do all this on the floor w/ a jack. I helped my coworker w/ this at the shop I work at on a Lexus RX300 which had this same exact set up on the lift, and that was already hard enough.
Yes, it made the job more difficult, but you do what you have to to get it done. Right!
For your Corolla is the camber adjustment that left bolt? I’m assuming it is, right?
it isn't. really is no adjustable camber, you might have a little play where the strut attaches to the knuckle but not many cars have adjustable camber these days.@@selwyn13
Best video I have found on this job !!!!!
Great video !
People like you deserve alot of subscribers , we learning from you , we apreciate your time and effort 🤝
I appreciate that, I wish I had a lot more subscribers also, I'll keep trying if you keep watching, thanks
6:21 @@dannysdiygarage
Thanks, works on my 2015 corolla, it was a pain adjusting the jack back to original height to match the mount holes for reassembling, lots of prying effort to get control arm in and out but nonetheless i got it
Thank for commenting on your success
The hardest part is lining up the horizontal bolt into the arm.
Thanks for the Great Vid! I was a bit surprised this video only has 13 comments since it's the best of about 6 I watched until I realized that probably not too many people are doing their own driver side lower control arm...
Yes it always surprises me what video’s do well and which don’t, sometimes I’ll spend days and weeks editing and get hardly any bees others a 10 minute edit and it’s a hit, crazy
Great video and explanation 👍. My daughters 2012 Corolla S has 106k miles, and it started to sound like it needed struts. I'm going to swap out the front struts and Coils springs,Lower Control arms,Tie Rods,Sway bar bushings,Sway bar Linkages, and 4 brand new Goodyear Tires. I will be starting at 7:30 am tomorrow morning. The tire will be mounted and balanced, then alignment the front suspension by Firestone tire service. MOOG Brand Suspension except The Struts and coil assembly is sold by TRQ. Let's hope I can accomplish 🙏 it. I have never done this before. Thank you for your video. I will video myself trying to execute this change and experience.
Please update me when you’re finished, I will love to hear how everything worked our👍🏼
The best technique so far for a Corolla. I think it would work in mine which is a 2010.
really great video ! thanks a lot. For the front 19mm bolt of those who live in the rust belt, apply heat 🔥 🔥!! dont use a breaker bar.
Great tip, I have great respect for you guys who have to deal with rust, I’ve been lucky since most of my repairs are on rust free vehicles, 👍🏼
@@dannysdiygarage respect for you for doing an excellent video with a lot of angle and good editing. The way you jacked the transmission was the best one I think. With your video my job was easier, in fact, I knew where I was going.
Great Job! You must be an old time racer
Very good video.
I done my 2004 Corolla likewise, but got garage to do ball-joints (wasn't sure how easy it was but they didn't charge much for that item, with hindsight could have done that part myself). Just a hint, leave bracket connected to engine block, long bolt, only need to remove top bolts connecting to chassis. 👌🛠
Thanks for this
ALSO DONT SPREAD PARTS DESIGN TO HOLD BUSINGS TIGHTLY, AND DO NOT DRILL OUT BALLJOINT BOLT HOLES, SMH
Great video Dan! Thanks very much! Good job! Liked and subscribed!
Thanks for your support
I spent a good 2 Hours trying to lift the transmission (I took off the pivot bolt) and once i took off the entire mount the transmission finally gave me space.
- 1999 Toyota Corolla
Great information, thanks for adding
OMG, I am so glad you made this second video. I don't know it has to raise the transmission. BTW, how do you know you need to change the control arm vs ball joint. The reason I ask is I have clunking noise from the passenger side and it has noise when I turn, start and stop. It is a 2009 Corolla and it has the original Ball joint for 13 years / 190k miles. I figured out it has to be the ball joint but after watching your video, it "may" be control arm too and the effort is totally different than "simple" ball joint. Thanks for the excellent video. 👍
Sorry for the late response, hopefully you answered your questions by now, I’ve been traveling and haven’t had much UA-cam time, sorry
Friday, February 23, 2024 ☁⛅☁
Danny, what unusual tools do I need to replace the driver side control arm? I mean tools beyond what the average, weekend mechanic has.
I see a 19 millimeter wrench is part of the project. Do I also need a 3 or 4 foot long pry bar?
I have a 1/2 inch, impact wrench, and an impact socket set.
Thank you much and I appreciate all the work you put into making this video! I wish you a happy and productive spring, Anthony 🌳🌻🌾🐿🌳🌻🌻🌾🌳
I normally just slacken the bolts from the subframe and pry it down a bit and the bolt comes right out. It’s less work in my opinion.
Thanks for adding, appreciate the info.
I'm doing a filter and gasket change on the transmission the same day I'm installing the new control arms. Do you think you'd have enough space to pull that front bolt while the pan is removed - without removing the mounts, jacking up the transmission? Or not? Best video on this by the way.
Even with the pan removed, you still won’t have enough room, unfortunately
@@dannysdiygarage Thanks for the reply. I wasn't sure. I'm going to use your tip with the socket to open back up the space for the control arms to slide into. Great idea. Subbed.
Yep, I’ve done automotive for 30 plus years, ( if I knew then what I know now life would have been easier) thanks for commenting on this.
TOTRAIT Front Lower Control Arms w/Ball Joints Compatible with 2003-2008 Pontiac Vibe, 2000-2005 Toyota Celica, 2003-2013 Toyota Corolla, 2003-2008 Toyota Matrix. www.amazon.com/dp/B08N5VQBLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V9JNR7EM8AYE6AM9RF4A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Great video.
Im going to be changing my control arms and cv axles and this is a great help. My transmission oil pan gasket has a slight leak and I'm going to be changing that as well. If i remove the pan will I have access to removing that horizontal bolt?
You will gain a little bit more space with pan remove but will still need to remove the driver and front 2 mount bolts and jack the engine slightly as he did (but not as much) if this makes sense.
I sometimes get away with holding engine in front center with a jack and then marking and removing the steering pinch bolt 12mm from inside cabin and tie off the steering wheel, then remove front 2 crossmember subframe bolts and the 2 upper subframe bolts behind the knuckles, and then loosen the 2 rearward subframe bolts just a half inch each, then I lower the jack about an inch or less.. but this will put some twist load on the trans mount if go too far so don't go too far if use this method. and of course always replace the pinch bolt with a new one or at least loctite it and use proper torque if you don't.
HELL of an idea with the socket and pry bar widening up the brackets. I'll be doing this in a couple of weeks. Shit part is I JUST last month replaced all the motor mounts..lol.. oh well, it beats messing with that REAR mount which a MAJOR PITA!!
Thank you👍🏼
The 19mm horizontal bolt…. Mine is seized to the bushing… I managed to break it loose and unbolt it a little bit but now the bushings are causing major problems… the bolt is seized to the inner race of the bushing when I turn the bolt the rubber on the bushing twists with the bolt turning but neither my impact nor my breaker bar or my 72 ratchet are able to get the bolt to rotate past the resistance of the rubber bushings for a lack of better term…. please help
Yep, this job could have been so much easier with out that bolt issue
This is how you know an engineers spouse cheated on them with a mechanic. Engineers design things to screw over mechanics in revenge. 😆
@@Proxtor not ruling it out,
Did you replace the sway bars too Danny? The control arm kit you linked to has the sway bars with it.
I did not, this kit I linked to is an updated kit
thank you what are the tourqe values?
Yes, they charged me $ 1,500 for labor so I decided to do it myself.
For both sides?
Would it be convenient to just replace motor mounts if they have to be somewhat removed anyways to do this?
The guy in Tijuana told me that he will put the labor in for the replacement of both control arms for $55.00.
Good deal,
The video is 15 minutes but i guess it takes at least an hour to complete the job, any link for the parts? thank you so much for the video sir
There is links in the comments if they still work
Buen trabajo gringo gracias
I thought I read somewhere that you only need to remove the 2 left side bolts for the transmission mount and you didn't have to actually remove the entire mount. From what you remember does it seem like that would have worked?
Some times doing more can save you a lot of time, I don’t like to fight it,
I do my best
Yeaaaaa, that goofy placement of trans in front of bolt!?.!?!.?! Nice vid tho
the video very informative .....thanks
You’re welcome 👍🏼
Thanks!! Glad I found this channel! Btw - was this on a automatic transmission? Rumour says it will not be such a bolt problem on my manual...
Update the channel on this if you have a manual 👍🏼
@@dannysdiygarage seems like it's a bit too tight also, even though the oil pan is slightly smaller for manual.
That is just evil to design this in a way to where you have to lift the transmission like that. It can be done, but I would prefer to do all this with more tools and equipment that I don't have. Awesome video. Thanks.
Appreciate your comment 👍🏼
I'm looking to do this and the 4 motor mount on my '08 soon. I'm curious, with the control arm, does it need to be unload to torque those, or does it not matter? Just wondering how you would be able to manage getting the suspension under load if your jack was holding the engine/tranny out of the way.
Tighten everything down, put it on the ground and final step torque it,
What brands are those control arm? Delphi?
I’m sure it’s a overseas brand, but works fine TOTRAIT Front Lower Control Arms w/Ball Joints Compatible with 2003-2008 Pontiac Vibe, 2000-2005 Toyota Celica, 2003-2013 Toyota Corolla, 2003-2008 Toyota Matrix.
@@dannysdiygarage I’m asking because I don’t have a rotary drill like you to widen the holes for the ball joint . I bought my control arms from Delphi so hopefully it will fit right in. I also notice you didn’t torqued down the bolt that goes across the control arm on the left side. Good video overall
Let me know the outcome, I love to know if they fit
hey I’ve replaced both side with Delphi control arm and they fit perfectly with no problem at all I didn’t have to do any modification on the control arms they were exactly the same as the OEM my car came with and by the way the Torque Spec is 101 ft-lbs you gotta torque those bolts down baby
Can you share the link to purchase these and I’ll post it, this will help others, thanks for sharing
May I ask you what kind of Makita impact wrench do you use? Do you feel it handled this job well?
I am thinking about getting M18 FUEL GEN-3 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 1/2 in. Compact Impact Wrench with Friction Ring , but I am not sure if 250Lbs of torque will be enough for 20 years of salt collecting bolts.
Thank you! Great video!
Invest in a breaker bar and use penetrating lube, I’m not sure I showed torquing everything, but I used a torque wrench
My makita is 10 years old, so whatever you purchase should be fine
Jeez have to take 30% of the car apart to get a bolt out. I wonder if they design that on purpose?
They weren’t thinking of the DIYer, that for sure
I took a look at pulling the motor mounts, so let's see if anyone has yt'd it ... and here it is. Many thanks.
Btw, haynes manual describes craning the engine/trans, then dropping the K member/crossmember. What's that in dealer labor costs (book), probably over $2000+
There is no easy way to do it, if you have something to hold the engine up safely from the top, that is best, however most of us do it yourselfers don’t, good luck, please update us if you find a better way 👍🏼
Nice👍I'm pretty sure my 2009 scion xb is gonna be the same procedure?
Good luck
No mention of torque specs. So important but no one mentions them when doing these car videos.
Torque specs are in the description on part 1 or 2, I’ve started adding torque specifications on my latest videos, sorry about that, live and learn ❤️
Wow 😮 this is wonderful.
Thank you! Cheers!
I have a manual so I didn't have the transmission issue. However my front bolt reluctantly came out about 3/4 " and then stuck, couldn't get it to move with my 16" ratchet. It goes back in easily. Yes I am in the rust belt. Should I put more and more torque on the bolt? I would hate to snap it.
Use penetrating lube and let it sit, come back and screw it in a turn then back out, keep working it
Where did you buy the griner??
Sorry I missed this comment, harbor freight, 20 bucks
Do you need to remove the 3 bolts at the bottom of of ball joint if you want to change both the ball joint and control arm???
No, but removing them makes it easier to pull off
So what brand arms
Did you use? Hard to believe the holes aren’t properly lined up. Sure you had the absolute correct part for either the arms or the ball joints???
A subscriber use Delphi brand, his comments are in this thread, he said no grinding, check it out
@@dannysdiygarage thanks. I might go to a junkyard and practice lol. There’s a manual in one yard I might try so I don’t have to lol key with the tranny in the yard. Hell if it’s a great looking bushing maybe I’ll buy it and use it.
@@dannysdiygarage fwiw I ended up getting duralast from autozone (OEM on forever back order and way too expensive). They were $92 each plus I had a coupon for 20% off. The ease of a walk on over the counter warranty makes it worthwhile to mei stead of having to ship a part back via rock auto etc. not that that is that big of a deal i suppose. Anyhow…the fitment was perfect on all counts. Seemed like a very quality made product. I wish I would’ve thought to weigh it against the one I took off. The passenger side was pretty hard because the front bolt was well sized into the bushing and the arm was really hard to get out. The drivers side easy peeezy. I did the front engine mount and tranny came up plenty. Blots on that side came out super easy. Anyhow….thanks for your vid it helped immensely.
Thanks for sharing this information
For a 2010 Corolla will it have the same bolt issue where transmission pan being in the way ?
Most likely it will
Does the car need to be lowered before tightening everything down?
Yes, that’s best
Gracias! great video
Appreciate your comment, thanks
THANK GOD I FOUND THIS
Thanks for commenting
Although it’s risky, Could we get away with cutting a small notch in the lip on the edge of the tranny Pan (maybe w/ a small cutting wheel on an angle grinder) thats in the way of the control arm bolt, so that we’ll have enough room to slide it out? That way we can avoid messing w/ loosening all the parts like the engine mount, b/c that’s what’s making me nervous as hell.
Not recommended, you’ll end up regretting it
I’m talking about strictly on the part of the lip edge that curves down. Or even still no?
No, be very careful when working around the transmission.
Or just take out the bolt as much as possible, and then cut the bolt with a cutting wheel angle grinder, then continue to unscrew it by hand and possibly repeat until it’s out
@@isaacsmith5611 Ohhhh. But will u have room to feed the new bolt in Frm the other side?
Is it necessary to replace the whole LCA? or I can buy the bushings separately?
Great question, I don’t know that answer, the Honda dealer would be a better source to call
Yes you can do just the bushings.
👍👍👍
If he had Taken the bolts out of the ball joint that pickle fork was not needed
I don't see the sway bar. Did you remove it? I am currently doing the same repair, but I feel like the sway bar is in the way.
I don’t remember removing that, it’s been 1 year, however I showed ever step
@@dannysdiygarage it is a corolla, yes?
I just noticed the reason your CAs are so trashed is because of the lack of a sway bar. Mine is a 98 and i didn't really have to replace the CAs despite them being originals because mine has a sway bar to absorb half the shock. I'm actually doing the second one right now and it's also still in decente shape. I just want to do it because I'm reolacing every other suspensión component anyway
Thanks for the information, makes sense
Psh. I'm thanking you, brother. Disengaging motor Mouns is easier than the subframe. Screw that nonsense lol. Anyway, I appreciate your help and feedback. God bless.
Can you cut the bolt and install a new one the other way?
No, it only goes in one way, just do it as per the video, it’s not that difficult 👍🏼
@@dannysdiygarage thanks for the info & the great video. I’m just scared of the motor mounts. I know what you meant when you said you were lucky they lined up. Lining those up has been a nightmare for me before because my jack isn’t good at delicate moves.
what model makita impact are you using?
My makita tools are at least 10 years old, anything you buy today will be better than what I have, however I’m a big Makita fan, that’s my brand
What year is your Corolla?
This is 2005 automatic LE
ok no you dont have to grind your control arm wtf are you doing? you insert the balljoint slightly , start the off bolt, then install the nuts and run them down for a tight fit...its like this for a reason, and do not spread your mounts for the lower control arm, place the control arm big bushing in first, use rubber mallet to work the barrel businng in , its easy, you want the pinch point pressure they way it supposed to be to get a good torque on them bolts , fyi the torque is not great enough to pinch what you seperated.... WARNING!!!!! DO NOT INSTALL YOUR SUSPENSION PARTS LIKE THIS OR YOU WILL RUN INTO ISSUES, SMH PLEASE DONT FOLLOW THIS GUYS "ADVICE"
MrJames: Maybe you can make a video to show others how you do it👍🏼
I couldn’t breaks loose the bold behind the transmission 😢
Bummer, squirt a lot of penetration lube on it, let it sit and try again
How long does it take?
Right side goes pretty quick, 2hours
Left 4 hours, I’m assuming no real experience doing this, if you have experience left right side 1 hour left side 2hours, it took me all day with filming and filming takes a lot of time
If I did this job again now that I’ve done it 3hours, it’s actually pretty easy start with the right side
@@dannysdiygarage thanks!
👍
Ive watched many videos of replacing this axle on the same car. No one ever messed with the transmission. ???
I’m not sure if this is a question or statement, if it’s a automatic transmission the bolt is in the way
What brand LCA is that? I'll make sure I don't order that one! Man you think companies could get things right drilling a hole!
I agree, it was disappointing at the time
Erggg. 😠 Damn it Toyota
$1600 to do this job? Where I’m from in Barbados it’s like $125. 🥲
That's crazy, how much is it to rent or buy a 3 bedroom home?