Thanks to this video I saved $500-900 dollars of installment my dad and I installed this ourselves on my 2015 X5 35i sport thank you again perfect detailed video
Wow I have the same vehicle. My battery keep needing a jump. I’ve had to do a jump 3 times in one day. And this is after the alternator has been replaced 😩😩
What has the world come to where we have to register the batteries in this manner...doesn't feel like progress to me. Great videos...really like the reality of them and your patience.
as a battery ages its ability to charge changes. The same reason Apple changes charge profiles over time and your phone gets slower. In autos using AGM technology voltage / charging is very important.
@@automan1223 I and others Ive spoken to are convinced AGM batteries are intolerant of cold temperatures. They seem to fail very quickly and in far less years than standard batteries. I wont by a start stop battery unless Im absolutely forced to.
Followed all instructions and this worked great!! (replaced BOTH batteries on a 2015 X5 xDrive35d (F15). Issue I was having is that car wouldn't start, or would start randomly, AFTER replacing the alternator! Also, One thing to keep in mind is the Bimmerlink app connects to the VeePeak directly, IT WOULD NOT CONNECT to my iPhone's bluetooth -- kept getting a message that it wasn't supported. Saved AT LEAST $500 by not going to the dealer, and I am NOT tech savvy or mechanically inclined. THANK YOU!!
Huge thanks to you brother! My X5 battery just died on July 4th holiday, I went online and found your video, picked up new OEM battery, ordered the OBD part w/ prime, downloaded Bimmerlink and just did the swap and programming tonight 7/6. Took me under 30 minutes total, worked like a charm, no errors in programming or functionality. Excellent tutorial, my mechanic would have charged me much more I am sure, couldn't be happier, thanks again!
Great video…but just a recommendation for others that are going down this road…you should also plug the opposite side of the battery (negative post side), too. Since the battery is enclosed, it is vented (which is what the gray vent hoses are for on the positive side of the battery)…but the vent hole on the other side will also vent gases that are naturally produced by the battery. The BMW oe Battery usually comes with a little plastic baggy that contains a new plug along with a new little black elbow. If you didn’t get the little baggy, try to remove the old plug from the negative side and reuse it. But an aftermarket battery usually comes with a knock-out auxiliary plug built into one of the terminal covers. I could see it on the red positive cover on his replacment LN1 aux battery, He almost touched it when he was putting the positive cable back on the aux battery. Simply twist that little plastic plug off (again, it was the red cover on the positive aux battery post) and insert it into the empty hole on the opposite side of where the vehicles gray vent tube gets inserted. Hope this helps others in the future. 😊
Thanks for a real battery install experience. I have an X5 which they quoted me as going to cost 1100$ to change the two. I did it for about half including the purchase of the code reader - programmer.
Great video. Unfortunately you do have to register the auxilary battery. You can do so with ISTA+. The auxiliary battery registration is under Vehicle Management> Service Function > Body > Voltage Supply > Auxilary Battery (PCU) Register Battery Replacement.
Just for your own safety, you should disconnect the earth straps on both batteries completely before you start swinging around a metal ratchet connected to the positive terminals as there’s a lot of places to hit and get a major short.
You're saving me huge $$$ after both batteries on my X5 failed. The dealership and another import shop quoted me 900 to replace both. I'm going to get the Bluetooth device and two aftermarket batteries. Thank you!
Great Video. In less that an hour replaced the two original batteries in my F15 Diesel. I purchased bimmerlink and registered the main battery. I am unsure whether the auxiliary needs to registered and if so how. I didn't see an option on the Bimmerlink menu.
Perfect timing on this, thank you! Planning on doing this soon. Curious what settings, if any, were lost? Radio presets, equalizer settings, etc? I assume trip odometer gets reset, and probably time. What else?
Thanks so much, Eddie M for being a professor on “UA-cam University.” This detailed “how to” video helped me out massively in replacing and installing my X6 M battery AND registering it! Lots of money and time saved! And thanks again for covering and showing so much detail for replacing both batteries, registering, and coding! Much gratitude my brother! 🙏🏾 Salute 🫡
I have a 2020 BMW X6. Did you replace both batteries? I'm considering doing the same; the dealership wants $2,200 to perform both battery replacements, haha. Any issues after replacing?
@nicolaschaparro2154. Nope, just needed to replace the larger one. It was super easy to do (thanks to Eddie M’s vid). Do yourself a favor… pay the $200 and something for the battery (assuming you just need the one), put it in yourself (took all of 10 min), and save yourself $2k. Best of luck.
Great video 👍 is the bigger mate called the auxiliary battery. My card X5 40E stop start has packed up and it's been saying aged auxiliary battery for a while now. Just don't want to change the smaller one if it's not needed. Thanks again 👍
Yes, if it’s auxiliary battery is the smaller one. I believe that was probably why my start/stop quit working. I replaced my larger one first and it didn’t help until I changed the Auxiliary.
Excellent video---to replace both batteries, what was the sequence of disconnecting the batteries--small battery 1st / positive then negative---2nd then big battery / positive then negative cables from post----after you exchange for the new batteries then you go backwards---Big battery 1st negative post first then positive post , finally small battery negative post 1st then positive lastly--would this be the sequence to follow so as to not fry any of the electronics--thanks for your reply--DELaw
From my experience, it doesn’t matter which one you disconnect first. I tried one at the time and car was still powered by the second or primary battery. I would just start with negative then positive on same battery but it doesn’t matter which one is first.
Hello I had a question. Does this tool help on determining the state of the current battery. The reason I ask is because I just got a used X6 and I am not sure if the battery in it needs replacement. It all works good but why would I buy a new set of batteries if the ones on are good? Hope you can help thanks for your videos
I haven’t tried with that tool. It has lots of features I haven’t tried before. I can confirm for sure that the BimmerLink App and Bluetooth adapter works perfectly and it will tell you the current % SOC
This is great, thanks! Can I ask to clarify, which of the OBD devices did you actually use in the video? And what do you mean that the one is "all in one" versus what the other one offers?
How do you know when to replace the battery? I see on some of the bmw forums some say the transmission thuds/jerks when battery not well, others complain of other problems to. And do you replace both at the same time?
I think it’s good practice. There’s really no way to tell which one is the bad one since BimmerLink only shows the charge on the main but I decided to do both just in case.
What year is your x5 exactly? Looks that on my 2017 i have no spare tire & rim and looks that i have run flats. Can write what tire name and model and size you have there on yours? i may have to get one ...too. Thanks for video regarding batteries....Thx
Mine is a 2016. Part number is : PKE7071SPARE Here is the part # for the spare tire 🛞 www.getbmwparts.com/p-e70-f15-x5-e71-f16-x6-emergency-wheel-spare-tire-set-pke7071spare
@@eddiemcars After some testing 2 months ago, re-charged them both with ctek 4.3 charger , all codes went away, and looks like it did comeback. Just to find out that i guess the aux smaller battery is going out. Will see what Costco have on the interstate brand. My other question for you was, what brand and model do u recommend on a plug in battery registration tool? (not the Bluetooth one) , just wanted to be ahead of the game... i was looking @ ANCEL BM700, FOXWELL NT510 Elite, AUTOPHIX 7910 Bi-directional . What u think? of course if you used one of those. Thanks!
@@burnjack291 I’ve been doing something similar. I recharged both batteries just to see which one was losing charge and it’s appears it’s the smaller one. Either way, I’m glad to have the functionality working and not getting low battery message as soon as I turn the car off. I like the Foxwell. I have the NT530 and it’s been pretty handy especially with other non BMW cars that I can simply buy the license.
@eddieMcars Even after registering the battery. The car don't seem to b charging it. It keeps on dying on me every morning. So do I gotta change the secondary battery too? Or I did something wrong
@@eddiemcarsneed help just got a 2017 50i and didn’t turn on I replaced the main battery and registered it and said only 8% its the same one u bought and brand new do I have to replace the second aswell , I put jumper cables and turn on worked well but after I shut it off it wont turn on agian
13:53 so if I have a 100aH AGM battery as a replacement, do you recommend going with the 105aH or the 90aH option when coding? AGM option on both of course.
Holy crappamoli😱 this is alot alot of work, I might aswell tow my darn x6, and make my mechanic doo all this work, like how da heck do I code a battery 🤔
Replaced the aux battery and looks that now i have a error code in my obd regarding steering angle. F15 X5, Codes: ABS Category: 48078B: ICM Interface: Steering Angle, Following Initialisation Phase, Signal Invalid & Code in EPS (Electronic Power Steering) DTC 482394 : EPS Control Unit: Initialisation Fault, Steering Angle, Loss of Multi-Turn Value. I have a scanner that can reset this i guess, never done it. Is this straight forward doing this or...(I have no warnings on dash, just if you scan the dtc) thanks
@@krisheiselberg I had to reset the steering angle sensor with scanner and looks like the code is gone. For both batteries i have done the reset/register both batteries with Autel Scanner MaxiCOM MK808 , it did have option to register the aux battery also , but never changed from the 90ah to 95ah as looks my scanners does not have that option, and in some fb groups some said that is fine as it is.
Hello and good day, I wanted to install this same battery. You only need to register and not code the battery. How do you know you don't need to program it? and only registering is ok. thanks important to know for tomorrows install. Thanks
You only need to “code” a new battery when you install a battery that will be a different type or different spec. For example, if you install a regular lead-acid battery and the original was AGM. Or if you change the AH (amp hour) rating…like if you go from a 105AH battery to a 90 AH battery, you would need to CODE those changes first, then you register the new battery after coding for any changes in type or spec. If you install a battery that would have the same coding specs for AH or type…that’s when you can skip “coding” and just register the new battery.
Exactly Ed, No need to use bmw batteries, it’s not like you’re replacing control arms with horrible aftermarket bushings. It’s battery, a battery is a battery as long as it’s same capacity and cranking amps. I’m a trucker and go through batteries quite often at first I thought there’s difference between brands but then I realized
I'm a stickler for oem unless oem is faulty. I've always used oem batteries and they last at least 7 years. What brand do you typically choose and how long do yours last?
I wanted OEM too at first but times have changed. There’s no guarantee you will get one. Then I realized, there’s no special formula BMW has for their batteries. Plus the price is double the cost for the BMW logo. I know someone who went to BMW for a OEM battery replacement and they received an Interstate Battery equivalent because of the shortage but still have to pay for the registering process and labor.
Yea agree, a battery is a battery as long as you get the correct size and cranking amps you are good to go! I personally prefer Interstate too especially since Costco now carries them and was able to find the main battery there too.
@@YourAssAintSafe My wife owns a 2018 X5 40d .. the car does not stop / start anymore (stopped last year?).. but it starts beautifully .. and the battery will get replaced when the starting crank starts to slow .. until then .. factory battery is doing very well .. especially as the car does very little mileage (it only got 7500 miles on the odo)
your truck batteries are most likely lead acid technology. Sealed / Calcium / AGM / Lithium batteries are very different tech & are priced accordingly to purity & longevity. Your statement is incorrect. I load test batteries of all types and I can tell you, pay cheap, get cheap. Alternators are not cheap.
@@gkloner I Have Topdon AL600 - registers only the big battery, and also i have Autel Scanner MaxiCOM MK808 witch u can register both batteries, the main and the aux. But none of the scanners will let me change the AH. Like the main battery from 90ah to 95ah. When i scanned the battery the scanner told me that it was 91ah setup in the system...hmmm
I have the same set up as yours in my 2016 BMW X5 15, two batteries, one smaller (auxiliary 50 Ah) and the larger one 92 Ah. I need to replace my 92Ah battery, as voltage is 12V or lower now according to my voltmeter and sometimes I get low voltage warning on my dashboard. I use Carly OBM 2 and Carly app to check out my battery too but only the larger battery is being detected by Carly. How would I know if I also need to replace the auxiliary battery and should I also replace it when replacing the larger one? BTW, weird but here in British Columbia, my genuine BMW battery from the dealer is cheaper than the aftermarket so I opted for the BMW one.
I think hooking up a battery charger directly to the battery is the only way you can get an indication of the health. I decided to replace both at the same time for peace of mind but I’m not sure if it’s a recommendation from BMW.
@@tomashyong I bought it from BMW Langley. They were out of stock for a while, had to order it and waited 3 weeks for it to arrive. The aftermarket is $375+tax, the genuine BMW battery is $325+tax.
@@eddiemcars I replaced my main battery probably 30 mins ago and everything started up perfectly. Had the main battery tested before I bought new one and it was the culprit. Thanks for the video man, Helped me out a ton!!
Please help I have 2015 X5 m package diesel .. When the car running the angel lights very bright the minute I turn on the lights they become dim .. how to make them bright with lights on ? I was thinking to do The harness
Usually if they become dim it's either a ground or a alternator or charging issue, if I understood the issue correctly. When stationary recreate the problem and hold the rpms higher at around 1500 see if they're still dim. Also check your battery terminals make sure they are tight, nothing loose. Might be as simple as a new battery or loose terminals.
A number of reasons. Slow cranking when it’s cold outside, I got the battery discharge message and car goes to sleep with 5 min with ignition on. BimmerLink showed a 53% capacity along with the voltage constantly at 11.3 or 14.8 while driving when it’s usually at 13.1 unless I’m coasting. The obvious one was start/stop wouldn’t work anymore. I knew a dead battery was coming soon and I wanted to get ahead of it.
I think it was as old as the car. It still started fine but I could tell it was weaker when it was in colder weather and the start/stop function wouldn’t work. After parking, I would get a occasional notification that the battery was getting low.
That’s correct. I think most late model X5’s have two batteries now. My 2014 50i also had two batteries. The second auxiliary battery can assist on additional loads that the main battery can’t keep up with. Prior X5 models would need a battery replacement at every oil change.
A batteryis NOT just. Battery, there are many types..and i believe you car takes AGM TYPE battery...there is spiral agm .flooded type etc...bad information .people buy expensive cars and use cheap parts..again. A battery is not just a battery.
@@eddiemcars The price...BMW, like MANY manufacturers, turns over dealer battery program to Interstate (was Johnson Controls and was bought by Clarios, They also own Varta the Euro/German battery maker that is OLD) so you are buying similar battery as you would get from several other sources including Wal-Mart. I have a shop and about the time I think who makes the best then that brand starts crapping out at 3 years and a month and another brand seems to rise to the top. The biggies in North America are Deka and Clarios now. Those two seem to have very similar track records. The second battery on non-M models is used for start-stop feature. The electrical loads other than engine operation and cranking are diverted to the secondary battery so the blower, audio, lights, etc., etc. ado not have to be shut off or have any effects from engine starting when you lift pressure on brake pedal when engine is turned off.
Thanks to this video I saved $500-900 dollars of installment my dad and I installed this ourselves on my 2015 X5 35i sport thank you again perfect detailed video
Wow I have the same vehicle. My battery keep needing a jump. I’ve had to do a jump 3 times in one day. And this is after the alternator has been replaced 😩😩
Hello
What has the world come to where we have to register the batteries in this manner...doesn't feel like progress to me. Great videos...really like the reality of them and your patience.
You are right, surprised that they can't make an alterneter measuring exact battery charge requirements!!!
as a battery ages its ability to charge changes. The same reason Apple changes charge profiles over time and your phone gets slower. In autos using AGM technology voltage / charging is very important.
Everything about BMW is to get you into the service drive...which is why the CEL is like a Christmas tree in so many of their vehicles.
@@automan1223 I and others Ive spoken to are convinced AGM batteries are intolerant of cold temperatures. They seem to fail very quickly and in far less years than standard batteries. I wont by a start stop battery unless Im absolutely forced to.
Followed all instructions and this worked great!! (replaced BOTH batteries on a 2015 X5 xDrive35d (F15). Issue I was having is that car wouldn't start, or would start randomly, AFTER replacing the alternator! Also, One thing to keep in mind is the Bimmerlink app connects to the VeePeak directly, IT WOULD NOT CONNECT to my iPhone's bluetooth -- kept getting a message that it wasn't supported. Saved AT LEAST $500 by not going to the dealer, and I am NOT tech savvy or mechanically inclined. THANK YOU!!
That’s great! I love hearing that the video was helpful!
....you saved me about $800 with this vid. Many, MANY thanks!
Huge thanks to you brother! My X5 battery just died on July 4th holiday, I went online and found your video, picked up new OEM battery, ordered the OBD part w/ prime, downloaded Bimmerlink and just did the swap and programming tonight 7/6. Took me under 30 minutes total, worked like a charm, no errors in programming or functionality. Excellent tutorial, my mechanic would have charged me much more I am sure, couldn't be happier, thanks again!
getting ready to do this. Did you end up having to change both battery or just the main one?
Do you always replace both batteries? How do you know which one is the one you need to replace?
Great video…but just a recommendation for others that are going down this road…you should also plug the opposite side of the battery (negative post side), too. Since the battery is enclosed, it is vented (which is what the gray vent hoses are for on the positive side of the battery)…but the vent hole on the other side will also vent gases that are naturally produced by the battery. The BMW oe Battery usually comes with a little plastic baggy that contains a new plug along with a new little black elbow. If you didn’t get the little baggy, try to remove the old plug from the negative side and reuse it. But an aftermarket battery usually comes with a knock-out auxiliary plug built into one of the terminal covers. I could see it on the red positive cover on his replacment LN1 aux battery, He almost touched it when he was putting the positive cable back on the aux battery. Simply twist that little plastic plug off (again, it was the red cover on the positive aux battery post) and insert it into the empty hole on the opposite side of where the vehicles gray vent tube gets inserted. Hope this helps others in the future. 😊
Thanks for a real battery install experience. I have an X5 which they quoted me as going to cost 1100$ to change the two. I did it for about half including the purchase of the code reader - programmer.
I'm looking for a source to buy My AGM battery for a i35 xdrive F15 twn T 6. Suggestions?
- where did you source your batteries from?
Great video. Unfortunately you do have to register the auxilary battery. You can do so with ISTA+. The auxiliary battery registration is under Vehicle Management> Service Function > Body > Voltage Supply > Auxilary Battery (PCU) Register Battery Replacement.
Just for your own safety, you should disconnect the earth straps on both batteries completely before you start swinging around a metal ratchet connected to the positive terminals as there’s a lot of places to hit and get a major short.
You're saving me huge $$$ after both batteries on my X5 failed. The dealership and another import shop quoted me 900 to replace both. I'm going to get the Bluetooth device and two aftermarket batteries. Thank you!
Great Video. In less that an hour replaced the two original batteries in my F15 Diesel. I purchased bimmerlink and registered the main battery. I am unsure whether the auxiliary needs to registered and if so how. I didn't see an option on the Bimmerlink menu.
Thank you for sharing! The battery is quite heavy and you should watch out your back when lifting the battery and putting it in place.
Perfect timing on this, thank you! Planning on doing this soon. Curious what settings, if any, were lost? Radio presets, equalizer settings, etc? I assume trip odometer gets reset, and probably time. What else?
I didn’t check my EQ, but I lost my time/date temporarily until it updated over the 3G. My presets remained and other settings remained.
Hi, thanks so much for the video! Can we just change the main battery? What the purpose of the aux battery?
Thank you so much for every little detail here. It’s friendly and helpful!
I’m glad you found it helpful!
Thank you for the video!
When did you decide to change the battery? And will I have to replace both batteries 1 either one fails?
Thanks so much, Eddie M for being a professor on “UA-cam University.” This detailed “how to” video helped me out massively in replacing and installing my
X6 M battery AND registering it! Lots of money and time saved! And thanks again for covering and showing so much detail for replacing both batteries, registering, and coding! Much gratitude my brother! 🙏🏾 Salute 🫡
I have a 2020 BMW X6. Did you replace both batteries? I'm considering doing the same; the dealership wants $2,200 to perform both battery replacements, haha. Any issues after replacing?
@nicolaschaparro2154. Nope, just needed to replace the larger one. It was super easy to do (thanks to Eddie M’s vid). Do yourself a favor… pay the $200 and something for the battery (assuming you just need the one), put it in yourself (took all of 10 min), and save yourself $2k. Best of luck.
Thank you! You just saved me $700.
Great video 👍 is the bigger mate called the auxiliary battery. My card X5 40E stop start has packed up and it's been saying aged auxiliary battery for a while now. Just don't want to change the smaller one if it's not needed. Thanks again 👍
Yes, if it’s auxiliary battery is the smaller one.
I believe that was probably why my start/stop quit working. I replaced my larger one first and it didn’t help until I changed the Auxiliary.
@@eddiemcars Fantastic video. Did you register the aux battery when you changed it? I see conflicting info
Excellent video---to replace both batteries, what was the sequence of disconnecting the batteries--small battery 1st / positive then negative---2nd then big battery / positive then negative cables from post----after you exchange for the new batteries then you go backwards---Big battery 1st negative post first then positive post , finally small battery negative post 1st then positive lastly--would this be the sequence to follow so as to not fry any of the electronics--thanks for your reply--DELaw
From my experience, it doesn’t matter which one you disconnect first. I tried one at the time and car was still powered by the second or primary battery. I would just start with negative then positive on same battery but it doesn’t matter which one is first.
Hello I had a question. Does this tool help on determining the state of the current battery. The reason I ask is because I just got a used X6 and I am not sure if the battery in it needs replacement. It all works good but why would I buy a new set of batteries if the ones on are good? Hope you can help thanks for your videos
I haven’t tried with that tool. It has lots of features I haven’t tried before. I can confirm for sure that the BimmerLink App and Bluetooth adapter works perfectly and it will tell you the current % SOC
This is great, thanks!
Can I ask to clarify, which of the OBD devices did you actually use in the video? And what do you mean that the one is "all in one" versus what the other one offers?
Bro. Thank you. Just ordered the LN1 from Rock Auto and I was wondering if I’d have to code it and now I know I don’t. Thank you thank you thank you.
hi, nice video, can you help tell me where you ordered the second small battery?
we found it
I was going to say Rockauto!
How do you know when to replace the battery? I see on some of the bmw forums some say the transmission thuds/jerks when battery not well, others complain of other problems to. And do you replace both at the same time?
Thanks for this well done video. It really helped a lot with this process and helped to save me a lot of money!
Have you noticed the exhaust flap on BimmerLink is no longer there ??
I recently replaced the main battery on my 2017 X5. Should I also replace the auxilliary battery?
I think it’s good practice.
There’s really no way to tell which one is the bad one since BimmerLink only shows the charge on the main but I decided to do both just in case.
What year is your x5 exactly? Looks that on my 2017 i have no spare tire & rim and looks that i have run flats. Can write what tire name and model and size you have there on yours? i may have to get one ...too. Thanks for video regarding batteries....Thx
Mine is a 2016.
Part number is : PKE7071SPARE
Here is the part # for the spare tire 🛞
www.getbmwparts.com/p-e70-f15-x5-e71-f16-x6-emergency-wheel-spare-tire-set-pke7071spare
As a previous owner of an X5, I was quoted a price of $500 for the large battery. Thankfully, the battery was ok.
That’s about what I was expecting!
Do u need to register the aux battery if replaced? Thanks for the video.
No, the Aux battery doesn’t need to be registered.
@@eddiemcars Thanks for that info.
@@burnjack291 you’re welcome
@@eddiemcars After some testing 2 months ago, re-charged them both with ctek 4.3 charger , all codes went away, and looks like it did comeback. Just to find out that i guess the aux smaller battery is going out. Will see what Costco have on the interstate brand. My other question for you was, what brand and model do u recommend on a plug in battery registration tool? (not the Bluetooth one) , just wanted to be ahead of the game... i was looking @ ANCEL BM700, FOXWELL NT510 Elite, AUTOPHIX 7910 Bi-directional . What u think? of course if you used one of those. Thanks!
@@burnjack291 I’ve been doing something similar. I recharged both batteries just to see which one was losing charge and it’s appears it’s the smaller one. Either way, I’m glad to have the functionality working and not getting low battery message as soon as I turn the car off.
I like the Foxwell. I have the NT530 and it’s been pretty handy especially with other non BMW cars that I can simply buy the license.
Is it necessary to replace both batteries at the same time?
Pretty sure you can code the auxiliary battery using ISTA
Can you share the procedure ?
I used the same battery, they are far better than the actual bmw batteries.
Which of the 2 OBD is better? Which one did you use in the video?
@eddieMcars Even after registering the battery. The car don't seem to b charging it. It keeps on dying on me every morning. So do I gotta change the secondary battery too? Or I did something wrong
Personally, I would change the second battery to rule out any other issues. Once I changed mine, it restored any erratic behavior. Good luck.
@@eddiemcarsneed help just got a 2017 50i and didn’t turn on I replaced the main battery and registered it and said only 8% its the same one u bought and brand new do I have to replace the second aswell , I put jumper cables and turn on worked well but after I shut it off it wont turn on agian
13:53 so if I have a 100aH AGM battery as a replacement, do you recommend going with the 105aH or the 90aH option when coding? AGM option on both of course.
Holy crappamoli😱 this is alot alot of work, I might aswell tow my darn x6, and make my mechanic doo all this work, like how da heck do I code a battery 🤔
I want info size about that spare tire to get one ? My space there is empty
Nice video by the way awesome
Thank you! I’m not sure about the spare tire since it came with the car. I’m sure bmw parts might sell you a kit
Great video man, really appreciate it.
Excellent video. Keep up the good work. 🎉🎉
Thank you so much on this video! Helped me out so much.
When you disconnect both batteries do you loose any settings etc on the idrive or other models
Cheers
Great video btw
No, all the settings were retained. Perhaps if I left it for days it could lose memory.
Replaced the aux battery and looks that now i have a error code in my obd regarding steering angle. F15 X5, Codes: ABS Category: 48078B: ICM Interface: Steering Angle, Following Initialisation Phase, Signal Invalid & Code in EPS (Electronic Power Steering) DTC 482394 : EPS Control Unit: Initialisation Fault, Steering Angle, Loss of Multi-Turn Value. I have a scanner that can reset this i guess, never done it. Is this straight forward doing this or...(I have no warnings on dash, just if you scan the dtc) thanks
Did you get your issue resolved? I just changed both of the batteries today and got the same codes regarding the steering.
This is interesting you both are getting errors after replacing the battery. Did you register the battery?
@@krisheiselberg I had to reset the steering angle sensor with scanner and looks like the code is gone. For both batteries i have done the reset/register both batteries with Autel Scanner MaxiCOM MK808 , it did have option to register the aux battery also , but never changed from the 90ah to 95ah as looks my scanners does not have that option, and in some fb groups some said that is fine as it is.
Hello and good day, I wanted to install this same battery. You only need to register and not code the battery. How do you know you don't need to program it? and only registering is ok. thanks important to know for tomorrows install. Thanks
Registering is all you need. I think the verbiage is interchangeable depending on who you speak to.
You only need to “code” a new battery when you install a battery that will be a different type or different spec. For example, if you install a regular lead-acid battery and the original was AGM. Or if you change the
AH (amp hour) rating…like if you go from a 105AH battery to a 90 AH battery, you would need to CODE those changes first, then you register the new battery after coding for any changes in type or spec. If you install a battery that would have the same coding specs for AH or type…that’s when you can skip “coding” and just register the new battery.
How do you open the trunk manually on the 2014 x5 xdrive 35i? my battery is dead.
Do you pay for the app bimmer link to downloaded ?
Yes. One time fee and you have it for life
If I want to just disconnect both batteries to let the modules reset do I need to register the battery afterwards or just connect them?
No, you don’t. The registration process only tells the car which battery and which state of charge it should be maintained.
@@eddiemcars thank you.
Great video! It helped me to make a executive decision! Thanks Again .
Exactly Ed,
No need to use bmw batteries, it’s not like you’re replacing control arms with horrible aftermarket bushings.
It’s battery, a battery is a battery as long as it’s same capacity and cranking amps.
I’m a trucker and go through batteries quite often at first I thought there’s difference between brands but then I realized
I'm a stickler for oem unless oem is faulty. I've always used oem batteries and they last at least 7 years. What brand do you typically choose and how long do yours last?
I wanted OEM too at first but times have changed. There’s no guarantee you will get one. Then I realized, there’s no special formula BMW has for their batteries.
Plus the price is double the cost for the BMW logo.
I know someone who went to BMW for a OEM battery replacement and they received an Interstate Battery equivalent because of the shortage but still have to pay for the registering process and labor.
Yea agree, a battery is a battery as long as you get the correct size and cranking amps you are good to go! I personally prefer Interstate too especially since Costco now carries them and was able to find the main battery there too.
@@YourAssAintSafe My wife owns a 2018 X5 40d .. the car does not stop / start anymore (stopped last year?).. but it starts beautifully .. and the battery will get replaced when the starting crank starts to slow .. until then .. factory battery is doing very well .. especially as the car does very little mileage (it only got 7500 miles on the odo)
your truck batteries are most likely lead acid technology. Sealed / Calcium / AGM / Lithium batteries are very different tech & are priced accordingly to purity & longevity. Your statement is incorrect. I load test batteries of all types and I can tell you, pay cheap, get cheap. Alternators are not cheap.
I'm looking for a source to buy my AGM battery for a i35 xdrive F15 twn T 6. Suggestions?
Costco have Interstate AGM Batteries (Just the big battery only)
@@burnjack291 - thanks!
@@burnjack291 - my big one is the 90 amps/900 cc.
@@burnjack291 - what are you using for a OBD2 scanner?
@@gkloner I Have Topdon AL600 - registers only the big battery, and also i have Autel Scanner MaxiCOM MK808 witch u can register both batteries, the main and the aux. But none of the scanners will let me change the AH. Like the main battery from 90ah to 95ah. When i scanned the battery the scanner told me that it was 91ah setup in the system...hmmm
I have the same car with same battery setup would the H9 size battery fit?
It may be slightly larger and some modifications to the bracket might be needed.
How to know which battery to change?
Great video, I'll be doing this soon. Typical BMW BS....
I have the same set up as yours in my 2016 BMW X5 15, two batteries, one smaller (auxiliary 50 Ah) and the larger one 92 Ah. I need to replace my 92Ah battery, as voltage is 12V or lower now according to my voltmeter and sometimes I get low voltage warning on my dashboard. I use Carly OBM 2 and Carly app to check out my battery too but only the larger battery is being detected by Carly. How would I know if I also need to replace the auxiliary battery and should I also replace it when replacing the larger one?
BTW, weird but here in British Columbia, my genuine BMW battery from the dealer is cheaper than the aftermarket so I opted for the BMW one.
I think hooking up a battery charger directly to the battery is the only way you can get an indication of the health. I decided to replace both at the same time for peace of mind but I’m not sure if it’s a recommendation from BMW.
I'm in British Columbia and same 2016 x5 , could you inform where did you get genuine BMW bettery ? thanks
@@tomashyong I bought it from BMW Langley. They were out of stock for a while, had to order it and waited 3 weeks for it to arrive. The aftermarket is $375+tax, the genuine BMW battery is $325+tax.
BRO YOUR A HERO
Do you have to replace both batteries or just the large one?
I did because I couldn't narrow down with battery was weak but typically, it's the main battery.
@@eddiemcars I replaced my main battery probably 30 mins ago and everything started up perfectly. Had the main battery tested before I bought new one and it was the culprit. Thanks for the video man, Helped me out a ton!!
Hello where do you bought the battery ?
Please help
I have 2015 X5 m package diesel ..
When the car running the angel lights very bright the minute I turn on the lights they become dim .. how to make them bright with lights on ?
I was thinking to do The harness
Usually if they become dim it's either a ground or a alternator or charging issue, if I understood the issue correctly. When stationary recreate the problem and hold the rpms higher at around 1500 see if they're still dim. Also check your battery terminals make sure they are tight, nothing loose. Might be as simple as a new battery or loose terminals.
You want the Halo’s to stay bright all the time? You’ll need to code it using BimmerCode it will remain at Max brightness with headlight on.
When do you need to replace the battery? I thought only when dead.
A number of reasons. Slow cranking when it’s cold outside, I got the battery discharge message and car goes to sleep with 5 min with ignition on. BimmerLink showed a 53% capacity along with the voltage constantly at 11.3 or 14.8 while driving when it’s usually at 13.1 unless I’m coasting.
The obvious one was start/stop wouldn’t work anymore.
I knew a dead battery was coming soon and I wanted to get ahead of it.
@@eddiemcars was that the original battery?
You should always clean the battery post and inner part of the cables before reconnecting the terminals
BMW batteries are in the trunk and never saw them getting dirty since they are completely sheltered from the elements.
@@Ashley_van_Schooneveld I know but cleaning the contact s doesn’t hurt. I always do it when replacing my batteries
Good advice but since BMW batteries are inside the vehicle away from the moisture and humidity from under the hood batteries, it wasn’t necessary.
What was wrong with the battery? Failed to start? How old?
I think it was as old as the car. It still started fine but I could tell it was weaker when it was in colder weather and the start/stop function wouldn’t work. After parking, I would get a occasional notification that the battery was getting low.
You should change both batteries 🔋
I take it you sold the X5? I came here because was seeing if it was on your channel still. I’m in the market for one 😂
I sold the 50i but I still have the X5M!
@@eddiemcars dang that was a nice car. I’ll check out the New one then 👍🏼
Thanks lovely video ❤
The second battery is only on the M cars. It's for the over run on the turbo cooling fans once the car is switched off.
Not strictly true, I have the 2017 X5 xDrive35i and I have a second battery.
That’s correct. I think most late model X5’s have two batteries now.
My 2014 50i also had two batteries.
The second auxiliary battery can assist on additional loads that the main battery can’t keep up with.
Prior X5 models would need a battery replacement at every oil change.
Negative. My understanding is that it is the Electronic Power Steering that requires the two batteries.
I’m in the UK, I have a 2014 F15 30d (258hp) and I have one battery.
I'm in Australia and can also confirm my 2013 F15 50i has only one 105ah battery.
Eddie, where did get spare tire?
They told me I couldn’t do myself they had to do it because the car would have to be reprogrammed in my 2016 X5
Thanks bro.
I did cost me $300 in total with bummer code app and battery.
Why did they have to make things this complicated? Code, register? Plug and play would be ideal
Eddie M cars to the rescue!
A batteryis NOT just. Battery, there are many types..and i believe you car takes AGM TYPE battery...there is spiral agm .flooded type etc...bad information .people buy expensive cars and use cheap parts..again. A battery is not just a battery.
What is the difference between an AGM 92 AMP hour battery and a AGM 92 AMP hour battery? 🤔
@@eddiemcars The price...BMW, like MANY manufacturers, turns over dealer battery program to Interstate (was Johnson Controls and was bought by Clarios, They also own Varta the Euro/German battery maker that is OLD) so you are buying similar battery as you would get from several other sources including Wal-Mart. I have a shop and about the time I think who makes the best then that brand starts crapping out at 3 years and a month and another brand seems to rise to the top. The biggies in North America are Deka and Clarios now. Those two seem to have very similar track records.
The second battery on non-M models is used for start-stop feature. The electrical loads other than engine operation and cranking are diverted to the secondary battery so the blower, audio, lights, etc., etc. ado not have to be shut off or have any effects from engine starting when you lift pressure on brake pedal when engine is turned off.
oh I have 2016 X5 35i
Should be similar with a 35i
German Cars are just idiotic! It’s a battery.