Vic from Base Leg Aviation shows how he bleeds the brakes in his new Hummingbird helicopter. He discusses Aeroshell 4 and Royco 782 synthetic fluid. @baselegaviation1614 www.baselgaviation.com
I always change out the nitrile or Buna caliper "O" rings and fit viton. They have a much higher temperature tolerance and are far less susceptible to leaking brake fluid on to the hot disc with associated fire risk . Using a synthetic fluid like 782 is also good.. I
I just bleed the brakes on my RV12 for the first time and had a hell of a time getting air bubbles past the master cylinders. Any tips or tricks for those style systems?
as mentioned, make sure the pedals are fully back. If they stick, loosen the bolts. You may have to add washers to the bolts to line the pedals up straight between top and bottom mounting bolts to ensure there is no sideways pressure.
My RV-4 has the master cylinders mounted ‘inverted’ - it’s an option in the drawings and keeps the bulk of the cylinder and hoses out of the way. However it means you have to bleed them car style - top down, otherwise it’s impossible to clear the bubbles form the master cylinders. Took me way too long to work out that it’s impossible to bleed from the calliper with that set up.
very helpful thanks
I always change out the nitrile or Buna caliper "O" rings and fit viton. They have a much higher temperature tolerance and are far less susceptible to leaking brake fluid on to the hot disc with associated fire risk .
Using a synthetic fluid like 782 is also good.. I
I just bleed the brakes on my RV12 for the first time and had a hell of a time getting air bubbles past the master cylinders. Any tips or tricks for those style systems?
On the RV-12 make sure that the individual master cylinders are in the fully extended position (i.e., brakes fully OFF) when you bleed the brakes.
as mentioned, make sure the pedals are fully back. If they stick, loosen the bolts. You may have to add washers to the bolts to line the pedals up straight between top and bottom mounting bolts to ensure there is no sideways pressure.
My RV-4 has the master cylinders mounted ‘inverted’ - it’s an option in the drawings and keeps the bulk of the cylinder and hoses out of the way. However it means you have to bleed them car style - top down, otherwise it’s impossible to clear the bubbles form the master cylinders. Took me way too long to work out that it’s impossible to bleed from the calliper with that set up.