Відео

Enjoying these videos Vic, they also reminded me to do my yearly note to AOPA & congressional representatives about getting BasicMed approval from our Canadian friends.

Outstanding! Thanks for sharing.

Rode my motorcycle to Alaska several years ago, now the goal is to fly there.

Loving these videos!

Old home week for me. Flew my taxi aircraft back to Washington from Alaska each Spring and fall, usually this route. A lot of the logged off area has regrown since 94 or so. Thanks for the vid. Flying north south East and west

As a former Army UH-1H pilot. Low level is not a problem. Not as beautiful, but this reminds me of my trip through W. VA, as I followed the river and freeway, (per my instructors advice) west to get my new 601 home from Roanoke to NE.

VFR over the top is available in Canada as an extra rating, it's included with the IFR rating. I managed to get mine a few years ago as I was doing IFR training. I believe US private pilots get OTT with their certificates, is that the case? Like night privileges.

Thank you very much for this very interesting video: I have an RV-7 in the south of Spain and I have installed the baffle seals that VANS sent me with the FWF kit and after less tan 200 hours of engine operation, I have already noticed that these baffle seals have lost a significant rigidity and my CHT are rising. I am going to change them. Why don't you use the baffle seal retainers strips?

Fantastic!

Thanks for sharing!

stunning!

Thank you for sharing your expertise and posting these short videos with tips. very informative and im learning a lot.

I installed an Electroair ignition in place of my right slick mag on my IO390. The right mag had the tach sensor so I have to use the Electroair tach signal from the control module. My left slick mag uses the slickStart and cannot have the tach sensor from the right installed due to the incompatibility with the slickStart system. So now when I perform a mag check I lose tack signal from my EIS and have to use my cable driven tach to check rpm drop. Not a huge issue since the cable driven is technically the primary instrument for RPM. Just wondering if your resistor method from the P-lead to the surefly module has an equivalent I could use to get a tach signal to my JPI 830 when the right EIS is off? I already mentioned to Electroair that it would have been helpful if they allowed the system to keep the tach signal active even when the Electroair was deactivated during the mag check. I use the Electroair mag switch which uses the individual rocker switches and push button from start. (Very convenient for preoiling engine).

Looks good Vic,Thanks for the updates!

Where did you get the new coils?

About to do this on my RV14A & I am now puzzled about bleeding the "master cylinders". I thought the process was to simply start at the caliper of each wheel, fill that line to the single firewall reservoir & only fill the reservoir slightly less than halfway. That leaves room to bleed the second brake. In the end with both lines filled & bled the reservoir should be about 2/3 to 7/8 full. I'm I on the right track..?

Wow...that single shear...cantilevered bolt lower master cylinder mount is very sketchy. Strange that the upper attachment looks stout, and is double shear, but they have the exact same force applied to them.

What airport in Edmonton did you stage from? MyRV10 is at Edmonton Josephberg CFB6

Is that orange rtv between case halves?

very familiar with the area from this leg. I've flown to Jasper, but no further west yet. Having lived in Prince George for the last 20 years of the previous millenia, I made that drive to Edmonton many time. Neat seeing it from the air.

Very Nice...

Cool video! I've been flying for 30 years, but doing a trip like this would scare the hell out of me. Having little info on the weather ahead and few landing options just makes it feel like its not worth the risk. I have respect for those who do it though!

I like it

Outstanding video, Vic! You are a great aviator. Thank you for sharing your travels.

very helpful thanks

and thank you for your knowledge .its appreciated

thank you for the tip

A couple comments... The real reason helicopter pilots practice autorotations is because they're so much fun!!! A couple people commented about the amount of ground slide... Without knowing anything about this particular helicopter, I can call out two criticisms of that auto... First, it looks like he entered the flare going too fast... You can see how long he floated before touchdown. The other was the minimal flare. It really looked like he just leveled the aircraft rather than flare it. The result is exactly what you see here, a fairly fast touchdown and a long slide. Given that he was landing on a runway, not a huge deal, but off airport where things are often pretty rough, it increases the chances of tipping over. Someone asked about coming back on the stick after touchdown to decrease the slide. That's not a good idea, because as the rotor rpm decreases, blade flapping increases. Tilting the disk back at that point often causes you to chop off the tailboom. Generally you want to do your slowing down while you're in the air. Once you touch down, you don't generally want to move the stick forward or backwards...

very well presented . this one of the best on the internet

Apologies for the comment I inadvertently deleted. The aircraft spruce part number for the heat barrier is 08-00600. It is $27.50. Vic used 4 for the lower cowl on the RV-10.

Maybe it’s just an artifact of the video, but how did the inside of your cowling get its copper color?

Very good advice, as usual. I got exactly what Vic describes, some blistering on the paint. I added some heat shields on all the exhaust pipes that are anywhere near the cowl - seems to have helped. Adding the layer of aluminum shielding on the cowl looks like a good idea as well!

Do you remove the jumper from the ignition switch if you swap the NON-impulse coupled mag out for a P-mag? Ie: I have a standard mag with impulse coupler on Left, and installing a P-Mag on Right.

How about using Fiberfrax? Less weight, thinner so it will form to the shape of the cowling and a good heat insulator.

The biggest problem with worm style hose clamps is everyone wants to overtighten them. This damages the hose, makes it less resilient and then the clamps tend to loosen over time. A properly tightened screw style hose clamp will work as well as any other clamp and last a long time and can be removed and replaced in the field with common hand tools. Either use a torque wrench on the hose clamp, which nobody does, or tighten until the clamp ring is just flush with the hose surface or a little less. I often will use a torque wrench when using a new style clamp or a new style hose and see how much the clamp compresses the hose. Once I know that, I can then tighten with a nut driver or screw driver and be pretty close to correct without the need to use a torque wrench.

Thanks for sharing these videos Vic. They are super helpful to this first time builder :-)

Could you plz make a video removing and inspecting the fuel inlet filter of the carburetor.

Thanks Vic. I noticed you mentioned the constant pressure clamp on the intake hose but not on the valve oil return hose. Was there a reason for this? I recently replaced my valve oil return hoses and put a constant pressure (spring) clamp on instead and it is sealed a lot better now.

You mentioned wrapping your fuel-flow Red Cube in heat-reflective material. Do you have a part number or source for that material? Love your videos!

G,day from Sydney Australia. What are the indicators that rubber engine mounts need replacing? 🌏🇦🇺

How do you feel about applying Niel seal (Spruce) to each side of the intake gaskets before assembly?

Thanks Vic. For those of us that are building and never really owned much less maintained our own airplane, these videos and your books are invaluable!

Great Viedo! Thanks

I still have some confusion about this. If the pitch stop is designed to prevent excess RPM then why would the governor come into play to keep RPM below 2700?

I just had a mixture cable like that break 2 months ago at 10,500’!!! I went with a twist set up.

Whirlwind on my RV6A

Great video! I’m having a hard time finding a mechanic to diagnose my injected engine. Like it’s really bad. You on the west coast at all and able to help? Or can I pay for your time to diagnose?

Make a tubine

Did you mention cruise speed?

The main rotor hub design is similar to the Sikorsky S-55 and S-58 machines