If you have a scan tool with the ability to read live data, an even easier way to test would be to get to the temperature reading on the scan tool and check the ECT (see if the temperature shown makes sense with how hot the engine should be). If it doesn't: check the ECT connector. When you unplug the connector the temperature on the scan tool should read around -40 F (completely open). Then jumper the two terminals on the connector (power to ground), this should give you a reading of around 250-284 F. This completely tests the circuit of the ECT, completely ruling out any electrical issues. If your two numbers are within the specified ranges: your ECT sensor needs to be replaced. However, if at full open, you have a number significantly more than -40, or at short to power, you have a number significantly less than 250-284: you have an electrical issue.
Hi Jordan. Mate, could I just double-check this with you? I'm in Australia where everything's in CELSIUS not Farenheit. So I do your test above - I unplug my ECT and check the readings you mentioned above with my scan tool (engine OFF, but ignition switched ON - is that right - I didn't want to run the car in case it shat itself!!). Open circuit reads -40 CELSIUS. And when I jumper the two connector pins together, I get +205 CELSIUS. Any thoughts on what that means mate? When I actually run the car and it's warmed up, my usual coolant temperature sits around 85 to 90 CELSIUS, which I presume is good. I love your logical approach, so hoping you might know what this indicates? Thanks very much. Stu.
@@stumu1242 Yeah, those sound like pretty normal temperatures. Bear in mind, certain ECTs have a higher max than others (I.e. some circuits can allow mid/upper 300f - or 200c). The important thing is that you can read a proper open circuit, you’re temps make sense at warm-up, and when you jumper the pins you have a fairly large number. This to me would indicate nothing wrong with the circuit. If you need further testing: I would advise you to take the ECT out of the cooling system and leave it in ambient air-see if the readings match ambient temperature. Likewise, try dipping it in very cool water; see if it drops significantly in temperature. If these things don’t match up, replace sensor. Otherwise, you may not actually be dealing with a bad ECT. Hope this helps.
@@KrimsonApoLLo champion.. thanks mate. Update: my mate has the same car but his works!, so I checked his temps today and they were identical to mine, so I might see if he’ll let me swap the sensors over, as I know his is good. Pushing a friendship though! To be honest, I suspect a crook ECU unit, or a non-genuine pre-cat O2 sensor.. I’ll check them tomorrow. Thanks mate for your reply.. most helpful. 👍
Temperature sensor is basically a resistant sensor.. the lower the temperature the higher the resistance, and the higher the temperature the lower the resistance. Once the temperature rise to 90 plus degrees resistance drops down to a certain point where it automatically triggers the fan relay actuators to activate the fan.
I didn't put it in cold water but I did use the chart you have beside you, measured ambient temperature (temperature in the air), to get the proper ohm reading. The ohm reading can go from a few thousands to tens of thousands, depending on the ambient temperature, so you might need to adjust your ohm reader to reflect some high readings if necessary.
Very good instructions. Maybe you can answer the following. I am testing a brand new sensor out of the box. Can the sensor give a resistance reading at ambient temp in the air. I mean it is just out in the air at around 22 C. Will it follow the chart you have shown in your video? Thanks for the time you spend in making the videos.
Thanks for your short and informative videos. Do all temp sensors have the same ohm range shown in the video, or is it different on different vehicles. I have a Jeep wrangler and would like to test the temp sensor.
AUTO REPAIR GUYS ----.>>>>>Can I just "back probe" the temperature sending unit and put my ohm meter to read the ohms while the car is idling to measure the ohms of the temperature sending unit at different engine temperatures? But how would I know if the temperature sending unit is good or giving false readings? I don't know how to test the temperature sending unit or where its at in cars. I'm not sure if the sending unit means a sensor. 1.) How do you test or what do you use to test the temperature sending unit? 2.) Can I buy a digital gauge at PEP BOYS and install it in the fuse box wires by slicing the wires to test if the analog temperature gauge in the car dash temp gauge is reading false reading measurements of the temperature? 3.) Can you make a youtube video showing how to test the car dash gauges to see if they work correctly and not reading false readings and how to test the sending units to the cars gauges? 4.) I don't know how to test the cars gas gauge, oil gauge, temperature gauge using a ohm meter or what other test tool can I use to test these gauges are working correctly and not giving false reading or not working correctly?
Good video; but, what about the CTS that breaks down after being at at normal running temp for a period of time. Then the ohms go down resulting in a overheat signal being sent to the ECU. I'd like to see a video of a intermittent CTS failure.
This is interesting ..my car is in garage had replaced rad . 2 years ago (garage ) . Head gasket was replaced . And newcrad cap recently. They believed it was that ....now was told car is ok .... then overheating warning ..coolant exoelling from expansion tank over engine so odd indeed
I am curious to know what you think my problem is with my '08 clk350. Body shop left the battery go dead, then charged it. Everything works in the car but my instrument cluster is showing my temp is at the top and a red warning light comes on saying that the car is overheated and yet, everything works fine....everything. Any thoughts would b appreciated
It could be cracked or you might just have a bad connection between the meter's probe and the thermistor. That's why I like to connect the meter to the thermistor using alligator clip jumper leads. You get a more secure connection that way.
Hey AutoRepairGuys, I have a 2019 Ford Fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost Engine I noticed it has 2 temperature sensors, the one for coolant and for the cylinder head. I see the cylinder head sensor hanging and cant find where in the cylinder head to put it. I bought this car used and I guess the previous owner thought it had an over heating issue but i notice the P1026 code was because of this sensor which works but is not in its place in the cylinder block. Do you know where it plugs into the cylinder head?
Before doing any of this, if you have a three prong connector. Get the car to normal operating temp and unplug the sensor. If the fan comes on, it is the sensor.
Very good informative video. Thanks for sharing. Helped to cover the thermostat part. i have 2010 ML550, ans got P0128 code, just wanted to know if i should check coolant sensor before going for coolant thermostat?/where exactly this sensor is located? If i can have a diagram or picture to locate it so that i can replace it. Appreciate your help!"
Hello, my car is a fiat bravo 2 2008 1.6 multijet diesel. Since I have it from the last summer the car does not have a stable idle. In the winter that problem was gone. This summer it is here again. I tried a lot of things but nothing is helping. Now I have error codes P01EA and P0487(for EGR). P01EA looks like very generic code but it looks like the ones for engine coolant problems. So I am thinking is it possible for a faulty coolant temperature sensor to cause an unstable idle when the car is warming and hot? For example, maybe the coolant temperature sensor is sending wrong information to the ECU that the car is still cold and the ECU is pushing the wrong air-fuel mixture as if the car is cold? Thanks in advance!
The AC in my 97 legacy outback and the cooling fans won’t turn on, causing it to overheat if idle too long. Does this sound like a temp sensor to any of you? Gonna check it out soon
Very helpful. With the car cold (outside temp 65 degrees F), I got 950. When it was all warmed up at 90 degrees C, I got 65. Seems below range based on your chart. Does that mean my sensor is bad?
So the sensor can give a faulty reading... When the car is cold (morning start) the scanner gives me a 0°c even the ambient temperature is about 18°c so it's not that cold and when running it barely hit the 60°c .... Before this issue the temperature was stable between 78 and 82 when running. The question is it a faulty sensor or a problem with ECU
Checked the video but felt there was no signal at all: Both of them cannot measure resistance under normal temperature (26-30 degrees) and high temperature (90-100 degrees) conditions.
Hello.. I have a Ford fiesta edge 1.25 2012 model... The fan does not work when the temperature guage reaches 93c. I have tested the fan with 12v battery and it spins fine. I have bought genuine 70amp relay and 60amp fuse from Ford and still the fan won't work... Even when I turn the AC on, the fan won't still spin or work... Could this be a bad engine coolant temperature sensor? I look forward to hearing from u.. Regards
Thanks for sharing. Can u short that connector to quick test the fans? Got an 06 Jetta 1.9tdi, fans ain't working, none. Just trying to Unplug the dern thing w/o breaking it at the moment. thanks again, - take care
Haynes Repair Manual says mine should be 5,600 to 6,000 Ohms (6 kiloOhms) when at 50 to 80 degree Fahrenheit or 10-26 Celsius. So not 2 or 3 kOhms like your video. I have a 1992 Chrysler Lebaron 3 Liter. So is this car manual incorrect? Are all Engine Coolant Temperature Sensors to same? I also read on the internet, at normal temp (20 to 25 degree), it can be 2 to 6 kOhms, DEPENDING ON THE MANUFACTURER OR CAR BRAND. Though i found zero info about resistances, when trying to find coolant sensors specs on the internet. My car has rough start, and the gauge shows incorrect, that's why i'm searching... I have a separate sensor for the gauge though...
I already found the answer. 10 degree Celsius is supposed to be 5600 Ohms (5.6 kOhms), 26 degree Celsius shoud be 3 kiloOhms (like i measured), Haynes is confusing about this. Thanks for the video !!!!
This video costed me £20. I got different values and thought the sensor is bad so I bought another one, I put the new one on the car and same problem. I took it out I get same values as the old one :(
kiểm tra như video nhưng cảm relay không có tín hiệu gì hết cả 2 cái đều không đo thấy điện trở tại các điều kiện nhiệt độ bình thường (26-30 độ) và nhiệt độ cao (90-100 độ)
Hi thanks for all your videos. I have a problem with my 2009 Honda Odyssey. The radiator fan will not turn on and I have incredible fuel consumption. I already followed this video to verify that both ECTS are ok, I checked all the relays and the fuses are ok, . I checked the ECTS connectors and they are fine. The fans are fine because I made a direct connection with a clip on both the fan relays, it's the only way they turn on. I used a scanner in auto zone and it shows these codes P2185 (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High), P0118 (Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High), and P0117 (Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low). I don't understand why show that, if both ECTs are fine. I don't know what else to check. Any suggestions will be appreciated, thanks.
@@alexandersilvar have you replaced the thermostat it might help with p0118, if thermostat faulty your coolant temperature is lower than it’s supposed to be and it will need to use more fuel to warm the engine , have checked the coolant fan wiring diagram it could also be a faulty ipdm or ecm if your car have it.
@@alexandersilvar I would also suggest get OEM thermostat from the dealer and check the price online it could be cheaper than pick up in the store, it is still not expensive anyway
kiểm tra như video nhưng cảm relay không có tín hiệu gì hết: cả 2 cái đều không đo thấy điện trở tại các điều kiện nhiệt độ bình thường (26-30 độ) và nhiệt độ cao (90-100 độ)
I have a 2010 Jetta 2.5 with code p0117. I replaced the thermostat sensory as recommended, but I still have the same check engine light. The fans come on as soon as the car turns on and the temperature gauge on the dash never reads anything. Just stays at zero. Any ideas? P0117 is the only code coming up and replaced new sensor.
@@WKRP187 yes I clear the code and then the temp will read for about 10 seconds and then drop back down to zero and then the code comes back. It is now showing P0118.
On my jetted 2.5 2010 Both upper and lower engine coolant sensors read where they should but still getting a p0117 and temp gauge on dash isn't moving from 0 even after 30 plus minutes of driving. Any ideas
@@denisgonzalezblandon1538 Figured it out. The fan came loose from the radiator housing and was slowly digging into the wiring harness. It ended up cutting the green and orange wire that run to the upper temp sensor. Easy fix once I figured it out. Now I have to figure out how to get a new bracket for the fans to sit in again.
the test shown in the video is an ohmage (resistance/continuity) test, by saying 'voltmeter', it suggests you are doing a voltage test. they are two entirely different tests.
Your graph(s) at the end isn't (aren't) the best. You put 100 on the same axis as 1000, 200 on the same axis as 2000. This was kind of confusing to me at first. It would be less confusing if you had 100-2000 ohms all on one side.
It wasn't that bad. Pretty clear it's a split down the middle and it changes sides to read. (Normally I'm pretty bad with stuff like this but it was clear as day for me)
I'm now thinking the problem on my car is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. It's all of a sudden slower to start and hesitant on accelerating. Although the dashboard temp gauge still works, when I unplug the ECT Sensor this makes no difference to how the car starts/idles. Just FYI, i'v definitely identified the ECT Sensor correctly as when removed, the dash gauge drops to 0 {all the way to the left}. Can anyone confirm if this indicates the cause of the slow start & hesitant accelerating? Thanks.
@@j.watson1644 I actually think it had something to do with the exhaust. It had holes in it, all were repaired and all of a sudden ~ it started/ran really smoothly
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Hi
Hello sir u have job auto electrician
If you have a scan tool with the ability to read live data, an even easier way to test would be to get to the temperature reading on the scan tool and check the ECT (see if the temperature shown makes sense with how hot the engine should be). If it doesn't: check the ECT connector. When you unplug the connector the temperature on the scan tool should read around -40 F (completely open). Then jumper the two terminals on the connector (power to ground), this should give you a reading of around 250-284 F.
This completely tests the circuit of the ECT, completely ruling out any electrical issues. If your two numbers are within the specified ranges: your ECT sensor needs to be replaced. However, if at full open, you have a number significantly more than -40, or at short to power, you have a number significantly less than 250-284: you have an electrical issue.
Legend 🙌
Thanks so much for this, my open temp came back at 59 F
Hi Jordan. Mate, could I just double-check this with you? I'm in Australia where everything's in CELSIUS not Farenheit. So I do your test above - I unplug my ECT and check the readings you mentioned above with my scan tool (engine OFF, but ignition switched ON - is that right - I didn't want to run the car in case it shat itself!!). Open circuit reads -40 CELSIUS. And when I jumper the two connector pins together, I get +205 CELSIUS. Any thoughts on what that means mate? When I actually run the car and it's warmed up, my usual coolant temperature sits around 85 to 90 CELSIUS, which I presume is good. I love your logical approach, so hoping you might know what this indicates? Thanks very much. Stu.
@@stumu1242 Yeah, those sound like pretty normal temperatures. Bear in mind, certain ECTs have a higher max than others (I.e. some circuits can allow mid/upper 300f - or 200c). The important thing is that you can read a proper open circuit, you’re temps make sense at warm-up, and when you jumper the pins you have a fairly large number. This to me would indicate nothing wrong with the circuit. If you need further testing: I would advise you to take the ECT out of the cooling system and leave it in ambient air-see if the readings match ambient temperature. Likewise, try dipping it in very cool water; see if it drops significantly in temperature. If these things don’t match up, replace sensor. Otherwise, you may not actually be dealing with a bad ECT. Hope this helps.
@@KrimsonApoLLo champion.. thanks mate. Update: my mate has the same car but his works!, so I checked his temps today and they were identical to mine, so I might see if he’ll let me swap the sensors over, as I know his is good. Pushing a friendship though! To be honest, I suspect a crook ECU unit, or a non-genuine pre-cat O2 sensor.. I’ll check them tomorrow. Thanks mate for your reply.. most helpful. 👍
4 year old video and still helped me so much today with my motobike! Thanks so much guys! 😁
Right on guy, no one is being as analitical and precise as you are . Thanks for this info
Temperature sensor is basically a resistant sensor.. the lower the temperature the higher the resistance, and the higher the temperature the lower the resistance. Once the temperature rise to 90 plus degrees resistance drops down to a certain point where it automatically triggers the fan relay actuators to activate the fan.
NTC thermistor.
Very straightforward and easy explained .... Thank you Sir
This man has helped so many people.
Very Helpful. Thank You Brother!
Thanks for definite tests. 160r for all time working fans.
Good explanation! Tank you
Lmaoo
I didn't put it in cold water but I did use the chart you have beside you, measured ambient temperature (temperature in the air), to get the proper ohm reading. The ohm reading can go from a few thousands to tens of thousands, depending on the ambient temperature, so you might need to adjust your ohm reader to reflect some high readings if necessary.
Great job 👏
Thanks man...Good job!
Might be 4 years old but still Very Helpful - Thanks
Bro has his head in a fishbowl! Good vid 😅👍
Excellent video thank you very much
Brother very helpful for me thanks
Muchas gracias, gran explicación..
So where do you get the specs for all sensors?
Good info
Very good instructions. Maybe you can answer the following. I am testing a brand new sensor out of the box. Can the sensor give a resistance reading at ambient temp in the air. I mean it is just out in the air at around 22 C. Will it follow the chart you have shown in your video? Thanks for the time you spend in making the videos.
Thanks 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thanks man, very helpful
Excelent video.
Always best videos
Do you have to take the sensor out to test it?
Hi, thanks for video. Any can we re calibrate if the test fail or to many error reading.
Camry 2000 v6 at 73F it's at 21.2 when scale is at 20k I am having hard starts in the morning is this resistance is good or it low
Would your car struggle to idle in the morning to the point where you have to hold it at the rev you want and after a few minutes it comes good?
Thanks for the video. In connecting to the pins with your red and black leads, does it matter which particular pin a lead connects to?
nope... its a continuity test
f the senser is not working at all would you get a zero /no reading ?
Thanks for your short and informative videos.
Do all temp sensors have the same ohm range shown in the video, or is it different on different vehicles. I have a Jeep wrangler and would like to test the temp sensor.
the question is how do i stop the coolant leaking while doing the test
Stick some finger in it
With a new sensor:)))
Thanks for the video. I would like to know where the temp sensor is located.
It is different for every vehicle. I suggest googling a diagram.
Would this apply to a thermotime switch that controls cold start injector too?
Thanks for sharing
AUTO REPAIR GUYS
----.>>>>>Can I just "back probe" the temperature sending unit and put my ohm meter to read the ohms while the car is idling to measure the ohms of the temperature sending unit at different engine temperatures?
But how would I know if the temperature sending unit is good or giving false readings?
I don't know how to test the temperature sending unit or where its at in cars. I'm not sure if the sending unit means a sensor.
1.) How do you test or what do you use to test the temperature sending unit?
2.) Can I buy a digital gauge at PEP BOYS and install it in the fuse box wires by slicing the wires to test if the analog temperature gauge in the car dash temp gauge is reading false reading measurements of the temperature?
3.) Can you make a youtube video showing how to test the car dash gauges to see if they work correctly and not reading false readings and how to test the sending units to the cars gauges?
4.) I don't know how to test the cars gas gauge, oil gauge, temperature gauge using a ohm meter or what other test tool can I use to test these gauges are working correctly and not giving false reading or not working correctly?
Very helpful. Thank you!
Good video; but, what about the CTS that breaks down after being at at normal running temp for a period of time. Then the ohms go down resulting in a overheat signal being sent to the ECU. I'd like to see a video of a intermittent CTS failure.
This is interesting ..my car is in garage had replaced rad . 2 years ago (garage ) . Head gasket was replaced . And newcrad cap recently. They believed it was that ....now was told car is ok .... then overheating warning ..coolant exoelling from expansion tank over engine so odd indeed
Very good, thanks
Should my thermostat and my fans sensor match in temp ? Open and close togethr ?
my guy autotuned
😂😂😂stop playing my mechanic lol i feel u tho
@m9katchm9 By far the best comment I’ve seen today dawg 💀🤣
😂🤣😂🤣
Very clear and to the point, thank you
Very good info thanks a lot
Thanks very helpful
I am curious to know what you think my problem is with my '08 clk350. Body shop left the battery go dead, then charged it. Everything works in the car but my instrument cluster is showing my temp is at the top and a red warning light comes on saying that the car is overheated and yet, everything works fine....everything. Any thoughts would b appreciated
I have a 97 BMW 328i , a reading at scan tool at all time for ECT is 141C/285F no mater its plug in or unplug. any idea ?
Hello Auto Repair, Does This Apply To All temperature sensors..?
Uhhh my sensor is broken in half right after the plastic connector point before getting to the metal. Can I glue it back together?
Faulty temperature sensor if I'm using the multimeter and the number are jumping back and forth alot ?
It could be cracked or you might just have a bad connection between the meter's probe and the thermistor. That's why I like to connect the meter to the thermistor using alligator clip jumper leads. You get a more secure connection that way.
Hey AutoRepairGuys,
I have a 2019 Ford Fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost Engine I noticed it has 2 temperature sensors, the one for coolant and for the cylinder head. I see the cylinder head sensor hanging and cant find where in the cylinder head to put it.
I bought this car used and I guess the previous owner thought it had an over heating issue but i notice the P1026 code was because of this sensor which works but is not in its place in the cylinder block.
Do you know where it plugs into the cylinder head?
Before doing any of this, if you have a three prong connector. Get the car to normal operating temp and unplug the sensor. If the fan comes on, it is the sensor.
Hi. If the fan is always on, even on every cold or warm start, does that mean it's the sensor?
Very good informative video. Thanks for sharing. Helped to cover the thermostat part. i have 2010 ML550, ans got P0128 code, just wanted to know if i should check coolant sensor before going for coolant thermostat?/where exactly this sensor is located? If i can have a diagram or picture to locate it so that i can replace it. Appreciate your help!"
Did you fix it? What was it
Hello, my car is a fiat bravo 2 2008 1.6 multijet diesel. Since I have it from the last summer the car does not have a stable idle. In the winter that problem was gone. This summer it is here again. I tried a lot of things but nothing is helping. Now I have error codes P01EA and P0487(for EGR). P01EA looks like very generic code but it looks like the ones for engine coolant problems. So I am thinking is it possible for a faulty coolant temperature sensor to cause an unstable idle when the car is warming and hot? For example, maybe the coolant temperature sensor is sending wrong information to the ECU that the car is still cold and the ECU is pushing the wrong air-fuel mixture as if the car is cold? Thanks in advance!
The AC in my 97 legacy outback and the cooling fans won’t turn on, causing it to overheat if idle too long. Does this sound like a temp sensor to any of you? Gonna check it out soon
What was it?
What was it?
What was it?
Very helpful. With the car cold (outside temp 65 degrees F), I got 950. When it was all warmed up at 90 degrees C, I got 65. Seems below range based on your chart. Does that mean my sensor is bad?
Mine has only 1 terminal, it’s a very old model from a 1980 forklift. How am I supposed to test it?
with only one terminal, it's likely the body of the sensor is ground, which is where you touch the other lead.
Very handy, many thanks
the tip of the sensor is touching the bottom of the pan, it will potentiallyhbe over 100c
So the sensor can give a faulty reading... When the car is cold (morning start) the scanner gives me a 0°c even the ambient temperature is about 18°c so it's not that cold and when running it barely hit the 60°c .... Before this issue the temperature was stable between 78 and 82 when running.
The question is it a faulty sensor or a problem with ECU
HELP, mine is around 2.5 when cold water, but the 50c and 90c hot water drops correctly, is the sensor bad ! Best
In Sweden, Temperature sensors are being placed inside the house. They will work wirelessly. Is it harmful to health?
Thanks
Need thermal paste before instalation ?
Thanks sir
អគុណបង
When in hot water if OMS dropped more means sensor is bad????
No, It is NTC sensor . if temperature increases, resistance will decrease
Checked the video but felt there was no signal at all:
Both of them cannot measure resistance under normal temperature (26-30 degrees) and high temperature (90-100 degrees) conditions.
Pretty good.
Hello.. I have a Ford fiesta edge 1.25 2012 model... The fan does not work when the temperature guage reaches 93c. I have tested the fan with 12v battery and it spins fine. I have bought genuine 70amp relay and 60amp fuse from Ford and still the fan won't work... Even when I turn the AC on, the fan won't still spin or work... Could this be a bad engine coolant temperature sensor? I look forward to hearing from u.. Regards
Thanks for sharing. Can u short that connector to quick test the fans? Got an 06 Jetta 1.9tdi, fans ain't working, none. Just trying to Unplug the dern thing w/o breaking it at the moment. thanks again, - take care
Haynes Repair Manual says mine should be 5,600 to 6,000 Ohms (6 kiloOhms) when at 50 to 80 degree Fahrenheit or 10-26 Celsius. So not 2 or 3 kOhms like your video. I have a 1992 Chrysler Lebaron 3 Liter. So is this car manual incorrect? Are all Engine Coolant Temperature Sensors to same? I also read on the internet, at normal temp (20 to 25 degree), it can be 2 to 6 kOhms, DEPENDING ON THE MANUFACTURER OR CAR BRAND. Though i found zero info about resistances, when trying to find coolant sensors specs on the internet. My car has rough start, and the gauge shows incorrect, that's why i'm searching... I have a separate sensor for the gauge though...
I already found the answer. 10 degree Celsius is supposed to be 5600 Ohms (5.6 kOhms), 26 degree Celsius shoud be 3 kiloOhms (like i measured), Haynes is confusing about this. Thanks for the video !!!!
Thanks, great job!
a very good explanation but what is the equation for this problem?
This video costed me £20. I got different values and thought the sensor is bad so I bought another one, I put the new one on the car and same problem. I took it out I get same values as the old one :(
What is the cheapest way to test the fan operation? I know you can just put 12v on the fan terminals, but how to cheaply test the whole circuit?)
Take a paper clip or safety pin and put both ends in the connector fan should click on instantly when key is turned.
kiểm tra như video nhưng cảm relay không có tín hiệu gì hết
cả 2 cái đều không đo thấy điện trở tại các điều kiện nhiệt độ bình thường (26-30 độ) và nhiệt độ cao (90-100 độ)
Hi thanks for all your videos. I have a problem with my 2009 Honda Odyssey. The radiator fan will not turn on and I have incredible fuel consumption. I already followed this video to verify that both ECTS are ok, I checked all the relays and the fuses are ok, . I checked the ECTS connectors and they are fine. The fans are fine because I made a direct connection with a clip on both the fan relays, it's the only way they turn on. I used a scanner in auto zone and it shows these codes P2185 (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High), P0118 (Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High), and P0117 (Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low). I don't understand why show that, if both ECTs are fine. I don't know what else to check. Any suggestions will be appreciated, thanks.
Have you figured it out ?
@@noone5461 Sorry, but no yet
@@alexandersilvar have you replaced the thermostat it might help with p0118, if thermostat faulty your coolant temperature is lower than it’s supposed to be and it will need to use more fuel to warm the engine , have checked the coolant fan wiring diagram it could also be a faulty ipdm or ecm if your car have it.
@@noone5461 No, I didn't change that. Thanks man, I'll try it soon, I'll get back to you if it works. Thank you very much.
@@alexandersilvar I would also suggest get OEM thermostat from the dealer and check the price online it could be cheaper than pick up in the store, it is still not expensive anyway
kiểm tra như video nhưng cảm relay không có tín hiệu gì hết:
cả 2 cái đều không đo thấy điện trở tại các điều kiện nhiệt độ bình thường (26-30 độ) và nhiệt độ cao (90-100 độ)
I have a 2010 Jetta 2.5 with code p0117. I replaced the thermostat sensory as recommended, but I still have the same check engine light. The fans come on as soon as the car turns on and the temperature gauge on the dash never reads anything. Just stays at zero. Any ideas? P0117 is the only code coming up and replaced new sensor.
Did you reset the check engine light after you replaced the sensor?? If not it's going to say that from now til the end of time
@@WKRP187 yes I clear the code and then the temp will read for about 10 seconds and then drop back down to zero and then the code comes back. It is now showing P0118.
Thanks for the reply 👍🏽
at 90⁰ C the resistance should be 134 to 135 ohms
What about 2 wire coming from the sending unit, both white wires ? Which one do you ground to battery to test gauge ?
Mine went up to 500, does that mean it’s a bad sensor?
Is that a nug of weed on the bench there 😛
So at what ohm reading does the auxillary fan starts to run? That’s my only concern!
On my jetted 2.5 2010 Both upper and lower engine coolant sensors read where they should but still getting a p0117 and temp gauge on dash isn't moving from 0 even after 30 plus minutes of driving. Any ideas
Thermostat stuck open maybe
@@denisgonzalezblandon1538
Figured it out. The fan came loose from the radiator housing and was slowly digging into the wiring harness. It ended up cutting the green and orange wire that run to the upper temp sensor. Easy fix once I figured it out. Now I have to figure out how to get a new bracket for the fans to sit in again.
@@DerkT7 oh that's good man I'm glad u figured it out good luck
Just tried this for my 95 f250. In ice water, i got 55000 ohm. In hot water i got about 6000 ohm. Think that sensor is fine?
No
Wow awesome
My voltmeter is reading 0.00. I've tested it several times. What does this mean ?
the test shown in the video is an ohmage (resistance/continuity) test, by saying 'voltmeter', it suggests you are doing a voltage test. they are two entirely different tests.
@@edwardjames6070 obviously, obviously I am attempting to learn.
6000 6000 Short-circuit to ground temperature sensor or for outdoor temperature how to fix it?
How much should I get if the sensor is not working??
Nice
so if my sensor ohms goes up to 5.0 when its 190 degrees its bad? It goes up instead of down
hi is it a problem if my ect sensor tip has broken off and is in the coolent passages.
Your graph(s) at the end isn't (aren't) the best. You put 100 on the same axis as 1000, 200 on the same axis as 2000. This was kind of confusing to me at first. It would be less confusing if you had 100-2000 ohms all on one side.
It wasn't that bad. Pretty clear it's a split down the middle and it changes sides to read. (Normally I'm pretty bad with stuff like this but it was clear as day for me)
I have a 80 degree fan sensor .so should i get a 80 degree thermostat ?
I'm now thinking the problem on my car is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
It's all of a sudden slower to start and hesitant on accelerating.
Although the dashboard temp gauge still works, when I unplug the ECT Sensor this makes no difference to how the car starts/idles.
Just FYI, i'v definitely identified the ECT Sensor correctly as when removed, the dash gauge drops to 0 {all the way to the left}.
Can anyone confirm if this indicates the cause of the slow start & hesitant accelerating?
Thanks.
I dicovered today,
yes...turn your air conditioner ? IfThe fans run, its ur sensor !
@@j.watson1644 I actually think it had something to do with the exhaust. It had holes in it, all were repaired and all of a sudden ~ it started/ran really smoothly
This is actually incorrect. I watched a video on a bad ECT being the main reason the car would not start.
Was it overheating to getting hot too??
Sir I am used 4 pin type how to connect tell me sir
Proven old school method
Good
My sensor has absolutely no readings at all
Does this mean its damaged