only thing I would add to this video. its a good idea to install the balancer while installing the timing cover. this helps to center the cover to prevent premature failure of the crank seal. also to make sure the oil pan is straight edged and flush at the bell housing surface.
Glad to see Spicoley went on to a successful career in the automotive industry.... Lol great video. I'm putting my first LS motor together and I'm trying not to mess it up.
The waves just were cutting it anymore lol and thank you, hope this was able to help. I will be doing a full build video on a 6.0L this winter that will be much better.
Thanks man, i really do appreciate it and i plan on making a lot of videos! i would defiantly swap a v8 in, you will have so much more fun with your truck and learn a bunch along the way. I don't think i know everything but if you have any questions feel free to ask and i can at least get you pointed in the right direction.
Sorry for the mishaps but you know how that goes. We all do. But great video. Digging your channel. Just found it and subscribed. Good job and thanks for the good information.
Dont you need to install the harmonic balancer before you torque the timing cover bolts? I think thats how you get the timing cover in the right position. That sucks about the head bolts and the rockers. You'll get it all figured out. Everything looks real good!
I havent done it like that but I'm sure that would make it much easier lol good call! I've just done the oil pan bolts first then measured each side of the crank then torqued the front bolts and called it good. I know I'm pretty bummed but things happen I guess lol and thank you! I cant wait tell its ready to go in!
@@MitchCarveth also to note, rtv sealant is required at the corners of which the oil pan gasket and timing cover gasket meet as well as where the rear main seal gasket and oil pan gasket meet. Otherwise oil leak will develop
I bought that very same spring tool when I was doing a cam swap on my Silverado, then I realized I was using .660" dual springs and that tool wasn't going to work at all lmao but lesson learned and I just broke down and bought that tool specific to LS heads that allows you to do two springs at a time, I figure it'd be worth it for the next time I have to do springs
I can't imagine that went too well with the dual springs haha I actually need get one of those as well, I'm camming my LS3 shortly and going with dual springs. Where did you get yours if you don't mind me asking?
FYI its a good idea to cut loose the retaining ring thats on the oil pickup tube and spin it around so you can use the other bolt hole for the attachment to the oil pump. This will allow you to change the oil pump if needed without dropping the pan. I HATE ENGINEERS LOL
@@MitchCarveth I have a quick question I Have a compress lifter in hand and I'm curious how to make it unlock is there like some kind of trick or is it screwed or what. I plan on putting in a new one but I am not very experienced with the DOD style lifters. I don't plan on using it again I'm just curious about it.
No sadly i got rid of the truck. I had intentions on doing a 6.0 turbo if i kept it. I have a couple of videos of it on my page though. Had an ls6 cammed L33, it was an offroad toy but it was pretty mean for dynoing 220rwhp. Did 60 in 6 seconds flat on 35s thru a stalled auto, not too bad in my opinion and it sounded soo nasty compared to everyone elses stock 5.3s around my area, wasnt even a crazy build but it was fun and drew a lot of attention. I think since i got rid of that truck im going to shoot for a more street friendly build with a single cab short bed, preferably a step side and do a single turbo build
That thing is pretty awesome, i can see how you would get some attention in that lol single cab step side would be sick! I have been wanting to build one for a while. Been debating on doing a step side C10 or building another cat-eye step side.
I’m currently redoing a 5.3 and the only difference is I’m using the summit stage 4 cam. My question to you is since you already had the engine open and apart, why not replace rings and bearings? Thanks man cheers
This is my first time seeing this channel. You look like one of the surfer dudes I grew up with. I look at you and think "I needed to re-up so bad dude, but I was too busy to hit the spot, luckily grandpa came through with a dope ass quarter bag and now I'm set." Hahahaha no offense intended whatsoever. Really appreciate the video, I'm going to build a 5.3 one day and I'm just educating myself.
Just to point out Microguard oil filters are manufactured by Wix. The same line as Wix Pro-tec, definitely not a cheap filter. Cut it open for yourself next to a Wix, they both have metal end caps, and silicone anti-drain back valves, Plus a heavy duty coil spring.
Mitch Carveth no problem, I work for O’Reilly for more than 10 years I was a teacher for new employees and taught training classes. Including college for engine rebuilding. This was a really good video, well done.
Mitch Carveth no worries, actually the k and n, royal purple, and amsoil filters are all manufactured by the same manufacturer for the oil filters, a company called champion labs. I actually like the k and n because of the bolt head haha. But I think the best for your money is wix xp, price point and availability are nice. The other plus after visiting their factory, The majority of their filters are hand assembled in the United States with well paid workers that really care about the product their pushing out.
The bolt head is actually what caught my eye with the K&N filters lol looks much easier than stabbing it with a screw driver haha guess its down to the Wix xp or K&N. Thank you for the info!
You can just use your stock bolts over as long as you're not building a super high performance engine, read that as NO boost. I have built many LS's over the last 12 years or so and I have a 5.3 LS in a '68 C10 right now that has been running great for over 6 years with used head bolts. You need to chase the threads in the block and use ARP thread lubricant on the old bolts under the heads and on the threads. That's where a lot of people screw up, using different lubes on the threads can reduce friction to the point of bolt failure. The ARP lube is designed to protect the threads and retain your proper coefficient of friction and prevent overstretching. Use MLS head gaskets (also reusable) and torque the all bolts to 22 ft/lb in the proper torque sequence, then take the larger bolts to 50 ft/lb and 65-70 ft/lb on the final pass. Recheck the smaller bolts along the valley rail and retorque to 22 ft/lb. The 5.3 in my C10 has a Stage 3 Texas Speed cam and Fitech Ultimate LS FI with long tubes and is just shy of 400hp at the rear wheels through a 700r4, no slouch with the red line at 6200 rpm and no problems.
I got really excited when I saw that you have an L33 block - I just found and bought a 2005 Silverado in excellent running condition because it had the rare L33 block, and am going to use the drivetrain for a different project... and last week was just staring at the myriad of headstuds/bolts to choose from and wondering why they were all so varied in lengths lol
@@jimmyfish715 as long as the block is original to the vehicle, the 8th digit of the VIN will be “B”. Also, the casting number on the block will be 12567392. Plus, it will be aluminum, which will be visible in places as silver-ish, as opposed to “rusty”. The advantages are, because it is smaller displacement inside a chunky block, it is stronger than many larger displacement iron blocks, and can handle more boost than many Corvette blocks, therefore more output, 800whp. It is also lighter, being aluminum.
@Jimmy Fish looks identical to an LM7 but made of Aluminum. Plus it will come stock with flat top pistons and 799 heads. I don't think this is a L33 though. It has dished pistons, and the mating surfaces look like iron to me. Can hardly tell the difference between the sleeves and the block. Plus he has 706 head castings, which came stock on the LM7.
Thanks for the great video… now, what is lapping? What is porting? And why does it matter to put rockers and pushrods Back in the same order or exact place in the engine that they originally were? Are they not all the same sizes or lengths?
When buying new pushrods, valve springs and valves it does not matter. When reusing, these parts have a chance of wearing into each other over time and when swapped, could cause uneven tolerances.
Lapping a valve is when you put a gritty compound (made for valve lapping) on the seat of the valve and head and spinning(grinding) the valves back and forth in a circular motion to ensure proper sealage. Porting the heads is taking a special grinding tool and reaming out some of the metal inside the intake ports and exhaust ports to increase the volume of air it can move in and expell. It also helps to polish it after to smooth it and get rid of minor air disturbances.
Man I’m 20 years old an it is my dream to take a ls engine from the block and build it to make some power only thing is stopping me is knowledge and $ one day one day I’ve got a 5.3 sierra single cab makes a little power with headers and intake and I’m rebuilding the tranny rn
Graham, WA. Looking for a 5.3 to install in a 56 F100. Low mile dropout or maybe longblock but not certain how easy it is to find all parts needed to set up in F100. Any recommendation on where to find in WA? Complete dropout or longblock route? What is considered low miles for these engines? Thanks for your opinion.
Im honestly not sure about hear in WA other than craigslist. i got mine shipped from the east coast and anything around a 100k or under is pretty low miles for these engines. my old engine went tell 220k and the guy that had the truck before me did not take care of it, even with me driving it like it owed me money and just doing regular oil changes it still lasted a long time. i know of people getting over 300k no problem with just regular maintenance. Long block would probably be best for cost but dropout should have PCM and wiring harness so that will defiantly help with ease of the swap.
@@MitchCarveth there was several 5.3 on the yakima craigs list this week. I found one in Feb and in the process of machining and rebuilding it. I ordered all my parts from BTR a one stop shop. I got the upgraded trunion set,Truck Norris cam but it's on back order When I get the specs from the machine shop I'll order the pistons and rings etc.... It's going into a 98 4x4 chevy truck. Can't wait to get it going .
Bonjour je me suis abonnée à votre vidéo je suis français je ne comprends pas l'annuler Derek avoir la manière que vous avez fait j'ai compris car j'étais moi-même dans la mécanique bravo continuez comme ça merci
In that camaro I wouldn't be worried about losing too much torque, in my land yacht of a truck I have to worry about losing torque lol is it a manual or auto?
Just found this channel! I got a few questions. Are those cathedral ports, if so, did this motor come out of a truck? Do you have a build sheet/parts list? I live about an hour from Summit racing in Mcdonough Ga, and I would love be able to get 2 5.3s and make a daily build in my silverado and a nasty build for my 78 c10
Those are cathedral port heads. His motor is in fact a gen III truck motor, and comes stock with cathedral port head castings. You can tell because the top of the intake ports have the shape of a "cathedral" ceiling, as opposed to looking just like the bottom, making it a rectangular port.
Not a dumb question, But because they were lapped to those specific seats for the best seal. If they don't go back to the same spots they wont seat correctly and will leak, it really doesn't take much of a change for them to leak.
First time seeing this channel, but I hope I don't hear I was gonna take my girl on a date but my grandpa you know..lmao like what I'm watching. Just cammed my 05 gto CANT WAIT TO HEAR IT.
do u have any oil leaks cuz i have an on oil leak from what looks like the long oil pan bolt that going into the plate. what do u think can be the problem
None oil leak, did the oil pan gasket get damaged during the install at all? also did you use a little bit of RTV on the corners of the cover before the oil pan got installed? that might be where its leaking.
I see you did the ls7 lifters is there a reason why you did the ls7 instead of a stock lifter thanks im also new to the ls world just trying to see what's best for my build
Im a little late to your comment but the reason you would upgrade to ls7 lifters is they encase the roller completly where it contacts the camshaft. Whereas the stock lifters rollers are exposed on two sides making them weaker in higher lift situations.
I enjoy watching these types of Video's as this teaches me what not to do. The Research I have done and the notebook I have compiled, have proven to me that there is a right way, and a wrong way to build a motor. by far this may work for awhile, who knows. Countless hours of engineering have gone into these motors to build them to specification! This is not it. I would call this the Weekend Warrior and leave it at that.
Time out you are mad because he used aftermarket parts? Once you start doing real building and stop writing in your diary say something. All toque specs seem to be to the book, so its like the motor is being built to specification. WEIRD! But hey GM did R&D, and put out a good motor on a dyno. Then people used it and found things that could be upgraded with shinny aluminum bits.
Nice video man. I see you are using castech heads. Are you concerned about the cracking issue with those heads? I’m am having to replace my motor in my 2004 because of castech heads and it only has 80k miles
Thanks man, I wont lie its in the back of my head but im sure they will be fine long enough for me to get the other engine built for boost and get it back in the truck. From what i have noticed with the cracked heads at least with my experience is not letting the engine really warm up at all before driving especially in the winter.
Mitch Carveth I bought a used motor with only 65k out of a 2004 suburban. I ran a Carfax on it and the oil was changed every 3k. It has 862 heads. What do you think about the 862s?
If you take the heads to a good machine shop they will find the cracks and weld the aluminum where they crack( usually where the three center head bolts are located). Once you do that those castech heads are just fine.
I dunno if it would be that because the springs should be the same height but I will look in to it. I'm going to call harland sharp tomorrow and see what they say.
Everybody keeps calling this vortec 5.3 an LS. If it is in fact an LS, which one is it? The only 5.3 LS I know of was a front wheel drive motor.. ls4 if I'm not mistaken.
@@MitchCarveth my concern was loosing to much compression when using 243/799 heads or even 241's, I still used 862's but if I ever decide to do a head swap I wont be losing much. I can always go with 317 heads if I decide to go boosted that will bring me down to 9.1:1
Sorry for the late response, I do have a video earlier in the build of most everything that I used for the engine build. Looking to do an updated video of that soon.
I'm using my 706's for now, I did just pick up some 799s though. Its hit or miss honestly, the 706 heads on my old engine lasted just over 200k before they cracked and some people have had zero issues with 706 heads.
Thanks for replying. What website did you use for purchase? Reason i ask is I'm trying to rebuild mine but there is so many knock off crap don't want to get burned.@@MitchCarveth
Nothing wrong with the 862s at all, especially if you get them ported. if you are adding boost i would defiantly look into 799s or 243s it will drop the compression a bit and the breathe better.
Hey man needing help on my build, I have a gen v almost done actually my motor literally looks like yours but blue! Lol but I did the same set up basically stage 3 what kind of rollers and push rods you get ?? I’m lost on that right now
Lol thats awesome! I went with the LS7 roller lifters from GM and ordered stock 5.3 push rods. With that cam setup it doesn't need upgraded push rods unless you plan on throwing boost at it.
Anytime man! and that's awesome thank you! i really do appreciate that! I can't wait to hear it either, then it will be time for some burnouts and fun lol
Also, for anyone who's watching and actually knows what they are.... At 11:00... They are "Knock Sensor" and not "valve sensor gaskets"... Come on man!!! In his defense... It sounds like "Grand-pa" was the man in charge and he was just making the video... So I guess this can slide... lol
Lol I called it the “valley cover” which is what it’s called and that I had put the knock sensor gaskets in. I’ll let it slide tho it’s Friday and you probably been drinking.
Truck heads?Awesome video man. What valves, rocker arms and Valve springs did you go with? I have an '04 Silverado Z71 with 380,000 miles. Valves are starting to chatter. It's time to build.
Mitch Carveth Thanks man, I’ve taken good care of it since it was brand new. If you look at it you couldn’t tell that it had almost 400,000 miles on it LOL. I somehow I watched your videos all out of sequence but wrote down everything you installed. Now I just have to get over breaking open the engine for the first time.
@@MrKoopa216 That one is a 2004 block. To be honest I would try and find a wrecked 4th gen camaro to get the LS1 and transmission out of it and drop that in the cutlass. That way you know if it runs or not, unless you plan to rebuild it anyway. Look into painless wiring harnesses as well.
I got it from my grandfather so not sure on the exact brand but I'm pretty sure he ordered it from Jegs. If I can find any marking on it I'll make sure and let you know.
@@hoodiekeem6228 No problem man, its had a few engines painted on it so I cant tell what the brand is but it does have WM stamped on the bottom of it. Im sure that doesnt help at all but I tried lol
Low enough miles on a mechanical oil pump didnt see the need to replace it and agreed on lifter trays, I ordered some but the ones that came out of the engine had a tighter fit with no movement so figured they were still good.
@@josephbednarik5 People seem to be getting pretty good numbers out of this stage 3 cam but who knows. I need to get it squared away so i can get to the dyno. not gonna lie i hope its a bit higher than your projection lol
@@edtorre771 I just picked up a set of 799s which are basically 243s, I think its a good call if you've got a cam or if you want to do boost cause they will drop your compression a bit.
Grandpa is killin it !
only thing I would add to this video. its a good idea to install the balancer while installing the timing cover. this helps to center the cover to prevent premature failure of the crank seal. also to make sure the oil pan is straight edged and flush at the bell housing surface.
100% agree, I've been lucky enough with no leaks but I will be doing the balancer same time as cover on the next build.
Mitch I probably have about 30-40 LS build videos I've watched , this one I definitely enjoyed the most, thanks brother cheers
That's awesome man, I appreciate it!
Storm trooper helmet.... solid. That's definitely how I'm going to remember that from now on. Great video man and you have a new subscriber.
Thank you for the support!
Glad to see Spicoley went on to a successful career in the automotive industry.... Lol great video. I'm putting my first LS motor together and I'm trying not to mess it up.
The waves just were cutting it anymore lol and thank you, hope this was able to help. I will be doing a full build video on a 6.0L this winter that will be much better.
GREAT VIDEO AND A GREAT EDUCATION. THANKS FOR SHARING. A GREAT MOTOR FOR ANY DAILY DRIVER.
Brah, Ur not boring us dudes I want to see the whole thing.
Thanks man, I appreciate that!
Fast Times! Spicoli!! Weve missed u all these years!
Super burnt
@@wheels.and.wrenches i wish, just graveyard life
Awesome video man, im thinking about putting a v8 in my 2000 Silverado 1500 man and im learning from ya, keep the videos coming bro
Thanks man, i really do appreciate it and i plan on making a lot of videos! i would defiantly swap a v8 in, you will have so much more fun with your truck and learn a bunch along the way. I don't think i know everything but if you have any questions feel free to ask and i can at least get you pointed in the right direction.
I love your grandpa
V8 swap ftw. Super easy in your case since you already have a GM vehicle. Good luck with your swap man! Hope you follow thru with it
Sorry for the mishaps but you know how that goes. We all do. But great video. Digging your channel. Just found it and subscribed. Good job and thanks for the good information.
Dont you need to install the harmonic balancer before you torque the timing cover bolts? I think thats how you get the timing cover in the right position. That sucks about the head bolts and the rockers. You'll get it all figured out. Everything looks real good!
I havent done it like that but I'm sure that would make it much easier lol good call! I've just done the oil pan bolts first then measured each side of the crank then torqued the front bolts and called it good. I know I'm pretty bummed but things happen I guess lol and thank you! I cant wait tell its ready to go in!
@@MitchCarveth also to note, rtv sealant is required at the corners of which the oil pan gasket and timing cover gasket meet as well as where the rear main seal gasket and oil pan gasket meet. Otherwise oil leak will develop
@@donniecahill5243 agreed, I may have forgot to mention I did that.
For a couple of bucks you can buy nylon guides for the front and rear covers. They replace the seals for cover alignment.
I have that same spring compressor I grinded off that handle and welded on a 3/8 15mm socket so I can use either a ratchet or my impact driver.
that sounds so much easier on your hands! Thinking i need to try that next time
@@MitchCarveth yeah that damm handle was killing my fingers lol
I bought that very same spring tool when I was doing a cam swap on my Silverado, then I realized I was using .660" dual springs and that tool wasn't going to work at all lmao but lesson learned and I just broke down and bought that tool specific to LS heads that allows you to do two springs at a time, I figure it'd be worth it for the next time I have to do springs
I can't imagine that went too well with the dual springs haha I actually need get one of those as well, I'm camming my LS3 shortly and going with dual springs. Where did you get yours if you don't mind me asking?
As long as it’s not a Fram filter you’re good. Not very many good things said about them
Agreed, I know people like to hate on it but ill be going with the K&N oil filter next.
Keep plugging away. Looks good.
FYI its a good idea to cut loose the retaining ring thats on the oil pickup tube and spin it around so you can use the other bolt hole for the attachment to the oil pump. This will allow you to change the oil pump if needed without dropping the pan. I HATE ENGINEERS LOL
Good call! I will definitely do that on the next build. Thank you
@@MitchCarveth I have a quick question I Have a compress lifter in hand and I'm curious how to make it unlock is there like some kind of trick or is it screwed or what. I plan on putting in a new one but I am not very experienced with the DOD style lifters. I don't plan on using it again I'm just curious about it.
Clean lookin motor man i wish i never pulled my 5.3 and got rid of it. Gotta build me another ls toy
Thank you, did you swap it for a 6.0?
No sadly i got rid of the truck. I had intentions on doing a 6.0 turbo if i kept it. I have a couple of videos of it on my page though. Had an ls6 cammed L33, it was an offroad toy but it was pretty mean for dynoing 220rwhp. Did 60 in 6 seconds flat on 35s thru a stalled auto, not too bad in my opinion and it sounded soo nasty compared to everyone elses stock 5.3s around my area, wasnt even a crazy build but it was fun and drew a lot of attention. I think since i got rid of that truck im going to shoot for a more street friendly build with a single cab short bed, preferably a step side and do a single turbo build
That thing is pretty awesome, i can see how you would get some attention in that lol single cab step side would be sick! I have been wanting to build one for a while. Been debating on doing a step side C10 or building another cat-eye step side.
@@MitchCarveth yeah theyre a lot of fun. Id much rather have an older truck over this new junk comin out
Just a quick note. U really wanna install the front cover b4 u install the oil pan. Due to making sure its flush with the bottom base of the block.
Grandpa is a Bad ass! Thanks for the videos man keep it up. I'm learning, so apparently you can teach an old dog new tricks lol.
Yes he is! and awesome lol I'm glad to hear it!
I’m currently redoing a 5.3 and the only difference is I’m using the summit stage 4 cam. My question to you is since you already had the engine open and apart, why not replace rings and bearings? Thanks man cheers
Nice! And good question, it really just came down to time and budget, the engine only has 80k so figured it would be good for a bit.
Damn, Grandpa is the man😁
Its not hard to remove broken manifold bolts in an aluminum head. It's very easy if you own a welder
ARP HEAD STUDS then can add a power adder later and not have to worry.
Agreed, i will be doing ARP head studs on the other engine. It will be built for boost.
if you want go WAY BILLY BAD ASS ? you can up size for half inch ARP HEAD STUDS. I wish you the best of LUCK and most of all have FUN.
Will defiantly look into that! and will do for sure, thank you!
What’s do the studs do ? Like as far as hp gain or anything?
@@jrjr8574 they're studs...
This is my first time seeing this channel. You look like one of the surfer dudes I grew up with. I look at you and think "I needed to re-up so bad dude, but I was too busy to hit the spot, luckily grandpa came through with a dope ass quarter bag and now I'm set." Hahahaha no offense intended whatsoever. Really appreciate the video, I'm going to build a 5.3 one day and I'm just educating myself.
LMAO no offense taken brother! i honestly get that a lot lol if you have any questions feel free to ask!
Just to point out Microguard oil filters are manufactured by Wix. The same line as Wix Pro-tec, definitely not a cheap filter. Cut it open for yourself next to a Wix, they both have metal end caps, and silicone anti-drain back valves, Plus a heavy duty coil spring.
That's good to know, thank you for the info! I always figured it was a cheaper filter.
Mitch Carveth no problem, I work for O’Reilly for more than 10 years I was a teacher for new employees and taught training classes. Including college for engine rebuilding. This was a really good video, well done.
That is awesome, i really appreciate it. How do you feel about the K&N oil filters? They actually better than the others?
Mitch Carveth no worries, actually the k and n, royal purple, and amsoil filters are all manufactured by the same manufacturer for the oil filters, a company called champion labs. I actually like the k and n because of the bolt head haha. But I think the best for your money is wix xp, price point and availability are nice. The other plus after visiting their factory, The majority of their filters are hand assembled in the United States with well paid workers that really care about the product their pushing out.
The bolt head is actually what caught my eye with the K&N filters lol looks much easier than stabbing it with a screw driver haha guess its down to the Wix xp or K&N. Thank you for the info!
You can just use your stock bolts over as long as you're not building a super high performance engine, read that as NO boost. I have built many LS's over the last 12 years or so and I have a 5.3 LS in a '68 C10 right now that has been running great for over 6 years with used head bolts. You need to chase the threads in the block and use ARP thread lubricant on the old bolts under the heads and on the threads. That's where a lot of people screw up, using different lubes on the threads can reduce friction to the point of bolt failure. The ARP lube is designed to protect the threads and retain your proper coefficient of friction and prevent overstretching. Use MLS head gaskets (also reusable) and torque the all bolts to 22 ft/lb in the proper torque sequence, then take the larger bolts to 50 ft/lb and 65-70 ft/lb on the final pass. Recheck the smaller bolts along the valley rail and retorque to 22 ft/lb. The 5.3 in my C10 has a Stage 3 Texas Speed cam and Fitech Ultimate LS FI with long tubes and is just shy of 400hp at the rear wheels through a 700r4, no slouch with the red line at 6200 rpm and no problems.
I got really excited when I saw that you have an L33 block - I just found and bought a 2005 Silverado in excellent running condition because it had the rare L33 block, and am going to use the drivetrain for a different project... and last week was just staring at the myriad of headstuds/bolts to choose from and wondering why they were all so varied in lengths lol
Ver y good muy bueno tu vídeo
How can you tell if its a l33 and why is it better?
@@jimmyfish715 as long as the block is original to the vehicle, the 8th digit of the VIN will be “B”.
Also, the casting number on the block will be 12567392.
Plus, it will be aluminum, which will be visible in places as silver-ish, as opposed to “rusty”.
The advantages are, because it is smaller displacement inside a chunky block, it is stronger than many larger displacement iron blocks, and can handle more boost than many Corvette blocks, therefore more output, 800whp.
It is also lighter, being aluminum.
@Jimmy Fish looks identical to an LM7 but made of Aluminum. Plus it will come stock with flat top pistons and 799 heads. I don't think this is a L33 though. It has dished pistons, and the mating surfaces look like iron to me. Can hardly tell the difference between the sleeves and the block. Plus he has 706 head castings, which came stock on the LM7.
Thanks for the great video… now, what is lapping? What is porting? And why does it matter to put rockers and pushrods Back in the same order or exact place in the engine that they originally were? Are they not all the same sizes or lengths?
When buying new pushrods, valve springs and valves it does not matter. When reusing, these parts have a chance of wearing into each other over time and when swapped, could cause uneven tolerances.
Lapping a valve is when you put a gritty compound (made for valve lapping) on the seat of the valve and head and spinning(grinding) the valves back and forth in a circular motion to ensure proper sealage. Porting the heads is taking a special grinding tool and reaming out some of the metal inside the intake ports and exhaust ports to increase the volume of air it can move in and expell. It also helps to polish it after to smooth it and get rid of minor air disturbances.
@@warrenlancaster8045 Thanks so very much for blessing me with this knowledge.🙏🏾👌🏾
@@warrenlancaster8045 Ok Thank You. This makes total sense now and I appreciate you taking time explain it to me.
Funny things is the head bolt kits you ordered mine was the opposite lmao. I needed a older motor head bolt kit instead got a new model.
lolol glad to know im not the only one.
The head bolts you ordered are for the LM5 motor, aka LS1(2000-2003). You need bolts for the LM7, LS2/LS3.
Man I’m 20 years old an it is my dream to take a ls engine from the block and build it to make some power only thing is stopping me is knowledge and $ one day one day I’ve got a 5.3 sierra single cab makes a little power with headers and intake and I’m rebuilding the tranny rn
Graham, WA. Looking for a 5.3 to install in a 56 F100. Low mile dropout or maybe longblock but not certain how easy it is to find all parts needed to set up in F100. Any recommendation on where to find in WA? Complete dropout or longblock route? What is considered low miles for these engines? Thanks for your opinion.
Im honestly not sure about hear in WA other than craigslist. i got mine shipped from the east coast and anything around a 100k or under is pretty low miles for these engines. my old engine went tell 220k and the guy that had the truck before me did not take care of it, even with me driving it like it owed me money and just doing regular oil changes it still lasted a long time. i know of people getting over 300k no problem with just regular maintenance. Long block would probably be best for cost but dropout should have PCM and wiring harness so that will defiantly help with ease of the swap.
Your spelling is atrocious, that may be why you are lost as a goose. Stop while you are ahead and take that engine to someone qualified to finish it.
@@MitchCarveth there was several 5.3 on the yakima craigs list this week.
I found one in Feb and in the process of machining and rebuilding it.
I ordered all my parts from BTR a one stop shop.
I got the upgraded trunion set,Truck Norris cam but it's on back order
When I get the specs from the machine shop I'll order the pistons and rings etc....
It's going into a 98 4x4 chevy truck.
Can't wait to get it going .
Bonjour je me suis abonnée à votre vidéo je suis français je ne comprends pas l'annuler Derek avoir la manière que vous avez fait j'ai compris car j'étais moi-même dans la mécanique bravo continuez comme ça merci
Merci j'apprécie!
Those rocker arms are sick asf
What is behind the oils pimp.. is there a timing chain guide ?
Mr. Mitch where did you purchase your LS7 Lifters? Did you go directly to the dealer or gm site?
Great vid ,,Question have a stock 5.3 swap in my 3rd gen Camaro I Wondering if I should swap in a 6.0 lq9 for added power or cam the 5.3
That's honestly up to you, With it being in a Camaro you could do a pretty big cam 5.3 and 799 heads or just a cam and that thing will move!
@@MitchCarveth Thanks for the reply Mitch ,Like to do a big cam but dont want to lose to much bottom end torque
In that camaro I wouldn't be worried about losing too much torque, in my land yacht of a truck I have to worry about losing torque lol is it a manual or auto?
@@MitchCarveth Its a auto with stock converter
So should I go with a stage 2 then ? And what HP gains would I get ?
Lots have said that valve spring compressor is no good, as it can nick the spring and introduce a point of failure
I could see that being a thing, I'll be using the LS spring compressor when I do the the LS3 this winter.
Just found this channel! I got a few questions. Are those cathedral ports, if so, did this motor come out of a truck? Do you have a build sheet/parts list? I live about an hour from Summit racing in Mcdonough Ga, and I would love be able to get 2 5.3s and make a daily build in my silverado and a nasty build for my 78 c10
Gorgonzola cheese 🧀
Those are cathedral port heads. His motor is in fact a gen III truck motor, and comes stock with cathedral port head castings. You can tell because the top of the intake ports have the shape of a "cathedral" ceiling, as opposed to looking just like the bottom, making it a rectangular port.
I don’t think it’s gonna hurt anything but they recommend that you don’t soak the ls7 lifters I’m not sure why but just for future reference
agreed, Pre-lube but don't soak overnight.
Might be a dumb question but if the valves were lapped then why do they need to go back in the same place?
Not a dumb question, But because they were lapped to those specific seats for the best seal. If they don't go back to the same spots they wont seat correctly and will leak, it really doesn't take much of a change for them to leak.
First time seeing this channel, but I hope I don't hear I was gonna take my girl on a date but my grandpa you know..lmao like what I'm watching. Just cammed my 05 gto CANT WAIT TO HEAR IT.
LoL no worries on that, and thank you! what cam did you go with in the Goat?
@@MitchCarveth a Brian tooley racing st 3 it's a 231/242__617/595 love it.i have a 6sp but it daily drives well and pulls like a freight train.
I have used the same grease for every engine build i have done all bearings and lifters and cam it is way better than any high dollar shit
did u tighten down the oil pan before u tighten the rear main seal cover ?
The rear main cover was tighten before I torqued the oil pan down.
do u have any oil leaks cuz i have an on oil leak from what looks like the long oil pan bolt that going into the plate. what do u think can be the problem
None oil leak, did the oil pan gasket get damaged during the install at all? also did you use a little bit of RTV on the corners of the cover before the oil pan got installed? that might be where its leaking.
did you dyno it yet?
@@BIGCUTTY88 Not yet, just waiting for my state to open back up. should be soon 🤞
Would you go custom harness or holley terminator
Stock harness for now, when things get crazy in the future I will be using Holley Terminator.
I see you did the ls7 lifters is there a reason why you did the ls7 instead of a stock lifter thanks im also new to the ls world just trying to see what's best for my build
Im a little late to your comment but the reason you would upgrade to ls7 lifters is they encase the roller completly where it contacts the camshaft. Whereas the stock lifters rollers are exposed on two sides making them weaker in higher lift situations.
I enjoy watching these types of Video's as this teaches me what not to do. The Research I have done and the notebook I have compiled, have proven to me that there is a right way, and a wrong way to build a motor. by far this may work for awhile, who knows. Countless hours of engineering have gone into these motors to build them to specification! This is not it. I would call this the Weekend Warrior and leave it at that.
Time out you are mad because he used aftermarket parts? Once you start doing real building and stop writing in your diary say something. All toque specs seem to be to the book, so its like the motor is being built to specification. WEIRD! But hey GM did R&D, and put out a good motor on a dyno. Then people used it and found things that could be upgraded with shinny aluminum bits.
🤣🤣🤣 got eem!!!
Nice video man. I see you are using castech heads. Are you concerned about the cracking issue with those heads? I’m am having to replace my motor in my 2004 because of castech heads and it only has 80k miles
Thanks man, I wont lie its in the back of my head but im sure they will be fine long enough for me to get the other engine built for boost and get it back in the truck. From what i have noticed with the cracked heads at least with my experience is not letting the engine really warm up at all before driving especially in the winter.
Mitch Carveth I bought a used motor with only 65k out of a 2004 suburban. I ran a Carfax on it and the oil was changed every 3k. It has 862 heads. What do you think about the 862s?
The 862s are good 👍 you wont have to worry about having issues with those. I will be looking for 862s to replace my 706s.
If you take the heads to a good machine shop they will find the cracks and weld the aluminum where they crack( usually where the three center head bolts are located). Once you do that those castech heads are just fine.
not sure if its any help but maybe try the btr valve springs
I dunno if it would be that because the springs should be the same height but I will look in to it. I'm going to call harland sharp tomorrow and see what they say.
what is the part number on the valve springs and thee cam? were those factory pistons?
LS6 Valve springs Part no. 12499224
BTR stage 3 cam BTR SKU 31824133
And yes they are the factory pistons.
Everybody keeps calling this vortec 5.3 an LS. If it is in fact an LS, which one is it? The only 5.3 LS I know of was a front wheel drive motor.. ls4 if I'm not mistaken.
When I built my 5.3 LM7 I threw in flat top pistons from a 4.8 LR4 gave me 10.20:1 compression.
I thought about doing the flat tops but ive been thinking about running boost in the near future.
@@MitchCarveth my concern was loosing to much compression when using 243/799 heads or even 241's, I still used 862's but if I ever decide to do a head swap I wont be losing much. I can always go with 317 heads if I decide to go boosted that will bring me down to 9.1:1
@@MitchCarveth 317's flow just like 243's except with a 71cc volume instead of 64cc
is this new cam gonna sacrifice low end TQ or will that be increased too?
Do you have a parts list on your engine? Just found your channel
Sorry for the late response, I do have a video earlier in the build of most everything that I used for the engine build. Looking to do an updated video of that soon.
What heads are you using? I'm building one and have 706 heads , I hear they're not too good
I'm using my 706's for now, I did just pick up some 799s though. Its hit or miss honestly, the 706 heads on my old engine lasted just over 200k before they cracked and some people have had zero issues with 706 heads.
I'm doing a 6.0 what heads should I youse I have 2 sets 317s n 706 s stock build
What kind of lifters are you installing there? Are they OEM?
Went with OEM LS7 lifters
Thanks for replying. What website did you use for purchase? Reason i ask is I'm trying to rebuild mine but there is so many knock off crap don't want to get burned.@@MitchCarveth
did u put rtv around the whole rear plate or just the corner
Just the corners where the cover, engine block and oil pan meet. Front and back covers, Dont need to use a lot of rtv.
What heads are you running I just picked up a 5.3 with 862 heads
I'm running the 706 heads for now unfortunately, defiantly keep those 862s
Really all I keep hearing is they are junk? I will be adding a turbo later
Nothing wrong with the 862s at all, especially if you get them ported. if you are adding boost i would defiantly look into 799s or 243s it will drop the compression a bit and the breathe better.
Cool thanks man for the info. You’re ls looks sick btw
Anytime man! and i appreciate that, thank you!
I have never seen anyone put grease on a stem, is there something different you're doing. Most videos I've seen they just fall right into place
I do it to protect the seal on the hat and valve guides. you can do it either way, I just feel more comfortable using grease.
Longer head bolts are early gen3 and the head bolts with same length is later04 and up gen 3
Man that's a Purdy 5.3
Thank you, i just hope it performs as good as it looks lol
you gotta new sub! Do you think an ls block with pistons, crank & cam for $500 is good price?
Thank you! What size Ls? does it need to be rebuilt? depending on size of the engine and no hole in the block lol thats a pretty good deal man.
@@MitchCarveth The guy that rebuilt my trans has an ls1 & 3 block in his shop they are in good shape. Only thing is im in an apartment lol. no space
That's a steal then man and ouch :/ if you are on the first floor just keep that shit on a stand in the apartment lol
Sweet vid
Always use motor oil when putting valves back in the heads or a good lightweight assembly Lube
Right. The white grease can dry and seize the valve in the guide.
Good video!
I think those rockers will allso hit the valve covers if you use the stock ones.
They ended up hitting :/ I ended up getting valve cover spacers.
ARP head studs re worth the money.
I’m rebuilding a 5.3 vortec right now. What cam did you put in this build?
I ended up going with the BTR stage 3 truck cam.
@@MitchCarveth Thanks for the response. Do you remember the duration and lift for that?
@@zachnewton1788 you're welcome, 218/224 .553/.553 LSA 113+3.
Hey man needing help on my build, I have a gen v almost done actually my motor literally looks like yours but blue! Lol but I did the same set up basically stage 3 what kind of rollers and push rods you get ?? I’m lost on that right now
Lol thats awesome! I went with the LS7 roller lifters from GM and ordered stock 5.3 push rods. With that cam setup it doesn't need upgraded push rods unless you plan on throwing boost at it.
Mitch Carveth okay, I sure do appreciate it man!! Thanks again subscribe to your channel now ! Can’t wait to hear it
Anytime man! and that's awesome thank you! i really do appreciate that! I can't wait to hear it either, then it will be time for some burnouts and fun lol
Wassup oshea this hakiem haha I found you
2brothersracing llc lol I figured bro I’m still stuck on my motor 🤦🏽♂️
Also, for anyone who's watching and actually knows what they are.... At 11:00... They are "Knock Sensor" and not "valve sensor gaskets"... Come on man!!! In his defense... It sounds like "Grand-pa" was the man in charge and he was just making the video... So I guess this can slide... lol
Lol I called it the “valley cover” which is what it’s called and that I had put the knock sensor gaskets in. I’ll let it slide tho it’s Friday and you probably been drinking.
@@MitchCarveth LOL.. You were dead on.. And I just watched that part again. You did say "valley cover".. lmao
Truck heads?Awesome video man. What valves, rocker arms and Valve springs did you go with? I have an '04 Silverado Z71 with 380,000 miles. Valves are starting to chatter. It's time to build.
Thank you! I went with the LS6 blue beehive springs and Harland Sharp roller rockers. That is an impressive amount of miles man!
Mitch Carveth Thanks man, I’ve taken good care of it since it was brand new. If you look at it you couldn’t tell that it had almost 400,000 miles on it LOL. I somehow I watched your videos all out of sequence but wrote down everything you installed. Now I just have to get over breaking open the engine for the first time.
If you wanted to could you put that in a 71 cutlass ???
For sure! that would be pretty badass. Just find yourself a 4l60e or T56 for transmission.
Mitch Carveth what year block that was
@@MrKoopa216 That one is a 2004 block. To be honest I would try and find a wrecked 4th gen camaro to get the LS1 and transmission out of it and drop that in the cutlass. That way you know if it runs or not, unless you plan to rebuild it anyway. Look into painless wiring harnesses as well.
Mitch Carveth was thinking about pulling the trigger on a 2001 6.0 out of a 2500 hd thoughts????
@@MrKoopa216 That will definitely work to.
Yeah can I borrow grandpa to build my engine
Nice videos! Keep up the good work.
Thank you! I appreciate it.
Where did u get the rebuild kit
Did you beat on the valves with a rubber mallet...to seat the retainers and other bs...
I gave them i love tap yes
What length bolts did you use for the engine stand
I honestly can't remember off the top of my head but I can check for you when I get a chance.
Same question
whats with those 2 big holes in valley cover?
For knock sensors
@@longhorn8459 thanks i finally did see someone installl the knock sensors the next day.
What kind of engine stand is that? Looking for a good one
I got it from my grandfather so not sure on the exact brand but I'm pretty sure he ordered it from Jegs. If I can find any marking on it I'll make sure and let you know.
@@MitchCarveth okay thanks alot
@@hoodiekeem6228 No problem man, its had a few engines painted on it so I cant tell what the brand is but it does have WM stamped on the bottom of it. Im sure that doesnt help at all but I tried lol
Harbor freight has decent ones for bout 50 bucks
how did this turn out how many miles on it now.
Was doing great until a valve spring broke and the piston kissed the valve. Now I’m doing a fully built LQ9.
@@MitchCarveth How many miles did you get on it before it started to eat itself.
The long ones will work
Why did you not replace the oil pump with new not to mention new lifter trays would of been nice
Low enough miles on a mechanical oil pump didnt see the need to replace it and agreed on lifter trays, I ordered some but the ones that came out of the engine had a tighter fit with no movement so figured they were still good.
Maybe the bolts are from a different gen LS head. Im thinking maybe LS3.
Turns out they are for 99-03 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 so if i ever end up building one of those i'm good on head bolts lol
How do you replace the knock sensor gasket. ?
Best way I have found is remove the valley pan and pop them out with a flat head screw driver then put the new gaskets in.
Beautiful engine 👍🏻
Thank you!
are you in Seattle or some were in Washington ? I just saw your Seahawk hat so I was wondering if you're by me or not ?
I'm in central WA a couple hours from seattle
I just say Seattle until I know people know where they're talkin about different places in Washington I'm actually in Olympia Lacey area
400hp to the crank or wheels ?
To the crank, hoping for at least 340hp to the ground
@@MitchCarveth maybe with a turbo!!
@@josephbednarik5 ?
its a 5.3 with the dish pistons its probably not going to happen. 350 crank 270 whp most definitely!!
@@josephbednarik5 People seem to be getting pretty good numbers out of this stage 3 cam but who knows. I need to get it squared away so i can get to the dyno. not gonna lie i hope its a bit higher than your projection lol
What kind of heads you have on there
706 heads for now
What’s the exact hp it produce
@@BIGCUTTY88 Not sure yet, hoping once I get the new fuel pump in, it fixes my issue and I can finally dyno it.
Can I see this from the beginning
Good video thanks
What heads did you use
I used 706 heads on this one
All that to get my stock Hemi numbers
But I don't have to say I own a hemi 😉
Grandpa coming thru, but where’s dad at???
Lol he busy
How much would a basic swap cost on a 90s Silverado if I were to do it through a shop
What's the specs on the cam
218/224 .553/.553 113+3
So all I have to do for a cam swap is match the dots on the sprockets
Make sure #1 cylinder is top dead center and line the dots up you will be good.
@@MitchCarveth I replaced my camshaft and crankshaft sprocket and I installed a new chain is it normal to have some slack on the chain 5.3 ls thanks
@@irvingbar4569 Awesome! Some slack is good.
@@MitchCarveth thanks man thanks for replying 🙏
Pretty much all the M8 bolts are gonna be 18ft-lbs
Go hawks
cool
What heads did you use?
706 for now
Mitch Carveth you trying to upgrade to which ones?
What you think about the 243s?
@@edtorre771 I just picked up a set of 799s which are basically 243s, I think its a good call if you've got a cam or if you want to do boost cause they will drop your compression a bit.
I’m doing a ls swap on my 90 got a 6.0 with tbss intake I’m go with stage 2 cam from btr and I want to change the heads to the 243s I have 317s now
Technically,the oil pan should b last thing to go on
Yo bro ....I have to do my 5.3 ....doing a non afm conversion at the same time.. would you be available to email?
yeah no problem! carveth427@gmail.com