It can be if you want it that way ... There's ways to build engines more efficiently and father more power than he thinks. His obstinance is not truth or wisdom.
THIS MAN IS A EXCELLENT INSTRUCTOR ..IF I WERE IN HIS CLASS I WOULD GET THE FRONT SEAT WOULDNT WANT TO MISS NOTHING..GREAT PRESENTATION ..I CAN TELL HE BEEN DOING THIS FOR ALONG TIME..
Thank you! This is absolutely, without a doubt, the most informative and intelligent explanation I have found for specing out a cam. I am starting to plan a build on my 2001 corvette and will definitely be refering back to this video when it comes time to select a camshaft. I want the lumpy idle but more importantly, I want a cam that works with my set up and my needs more than just a sound. Thank you again!!!
I went to Hi-Tech back in 2004 to get their custom grind cam for my 2000 Camaro LS/MT. I had all bolt ons and was looking for a little more power. I installed the cam and took it to Hi-Tech to get it tuned. Car ran perfect , I sold the car back in 2013 - Hi-Tech knows these LS motors! Glad to see you guys making YT vids!
Awesome video. It is so freaking hard to find someone who wants to build a motor for efficiency over a dollar and bragging rights that doesn't matter. You started to touch on the LS3/ L99. I would appreciate the hell out of it if you would make a video about that/them. Thanks for what you do! If it wasn't for people like you the car world wouldn't be the same today!
I want to spend my money with this guy. Very transparent. Most guys just want your money and send you on your way instead of educating you to get the best bang for your buck.
Just wanted to say thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m coming from the sport bike world to Chevys and LS motors. This helps me figure out cams to look at.
if you just want the "chop Chop" use a 232/242 on a 108 lobe sep. it wont pull its way out of a wet paper bag, and it will get 9 mpg but it will give you Chop Chop. but i will not grind it for you.
I’m about to do a ls swap in my 1990 gmc short bed with 373 posi , I want the maximum hp I can get ,but I want a fair fuel economy.Im planning on really just installing a cam for power purpose,because they usually sound good either way so can you help me determine which cam to use for a stock 5.3 or 6.0 ls swap
Dear Lo-Tech. Check out Richard Holdener's channel. He has 100's if not 1000's of dyno runs documented. He did testing on LS cam LSA. He literally tested the exact cam you said would not not pull it's way out of wet paper bag. Guess what? It made the most power. Not just the most peak power, it made the most power everywhere on the curve. Just search LSA cam test. Maybe you might learn something. PS if you want good gas mileage get a KIA.
At 16:34 you nailed it man I made an LS cam selection video based on what we learned on the dyno over the years, I am astounded at how close your numbers are to mine I knew most of this but it's nice to get some confirmation anyway I have been saying the exact same thing with good flowing heads a ton of overlap is not only not necessary it causes lousy performance good video
Watched yours as well, chose a 217/225 .595 .587 114+2 Cam Motion cam for a 6.0 in my almost 4k lb street car, for all the reasons you both talk about. More concerned with driveability and low/mid torque than max peak hp. Not installed yet as it's my daily driver, I think I made a good choice. Your thoughts on my selection ?
Awsome to hear an experienced engine builder with real world knowledge talk about something so complex and makes it easy to understand. Where was this video in my life? Lets blow this video up
Good info! About three years after this video the hot LS truck cam is the Truck Norris which has a really narrow LSA (~108). This guy likes wide LSA’s after thousands of dyno runs! What gives?!? I know that a torquey street engine can be had with a little compression, smaller ports for higher velocity and a narrow LSA. I have a BBC set up that way and it’s nasty as a porta potty on a hot day!
The 233/253 @ 0.050 .646/.637 on a 112+4 in my LS3 Camaro would probably fall on the extreme/max effort end of your scale - but even with stock compression it performs well and has surprisingly good manners for 19* of overlap at 0.050. It's ahead on power and torque for 3200 on up, picked up 70hp at the wheels, and 6-7mph in the quarter mile (probably more if I could get more than 4.10 in the rear). Sure, dynamic compression took a pretty good hit with that much overlap, but eventually I'll get these heads milled and bring that back. Honestly, it's street manners aren't bad at all for what it is, I put about 5k miles a year on the car, and I'm smiling the whole time. I'm sure it's not news to you, but you never touched on tuning in your video. I don't think you can overstate how important that is to the way any camshaft is going to drive. A poor tune will make a mild cam drive like trash, and a good tune can take a rowdy piece and make it very reasonable to live with. I've nitpicked mine to death myself over the last few years, and the little things like injection timing and light load spark tuning makes all the difference in those bad manners areas. But great video - I think you stressed a key factor really well: be honest about what you really want to do with the vehicle, and make a choice based on usage, not what sounds cool. If you're not willing to put a converter and gears in it, and not willing to tolerate some misbehavior, stay away from big duration stuff!
Jesus brought me to this channel!!! About to rebuild my 2006 GMC Sierra CrewCab w/5.3L, and it’s an everyday truck, that occasionally pulls a trailer full of landscaping materials. I don’t need a Sloppy Stage II cam, for sure. Thank you for real world application information🙏🏽💯✊🏽
Thank you for the great information. I completely agree with what you said. I've learned the hard way over the years and also seen many people make the mistake of over camming engines and end up unhappy with performance.
LMAO - this shows up in my recommendations and 3 minutes in, I am thinking to myself I need to go to Wallace Racing and use their calculators again... Such a wonderful resource, just gotta make sure you know what those number mean and remember your conversion factors.
Awesome vid! It's had to believe people are still trying to run big camshafts with a stock converter... The factory grinds are almost big enough to warrant a stall converter. Gotta love the torque of a mild cam in an LS on the street... Everything feels like the old 327-375hp these days...❤
Great video , thank you . Now back in the day PAW advertised a SBC cam that stated it WAS a 360/360 , always got a chuckle from that and you just reminded me ....thanks again
4.8/5.3L if you want to keep stock stall and trans go with something around 205-216 intake 210-220 exhaust range. Barts 223/227 cam will need a stall converter, which is perfectly fine. However, on my daily driver and for towing I like the stock stall.
EVERYONE STOP AND READ THIS!!!! This Guy Is An Absolute Amateur in Valve Event Timing... The info in this vid is about useless if your actually looking for max tq, hp & trapped Volumetric efficiency across the entire curve in an LS or any given v8 engine combo... Any body that sees this i highly recomend Watching bolth of Cattledog Garage's camshaft videos if you want pro stock level knowledge and beyond, Adam at Cattledog Garage explains stuff that dont exist anywhere on the entire internet and with dyno data for proof of concept to back up his words... Im a 73 year old ex Pro stock & Nascar engine builder, ive learned more from listening to Adam at Cattledog Garage for 2 hours than i have from a 3day $1200 David Vizard Seminar and more than the entirety of Billy Godbolds newest Book... Adam is an absolute Genious!!!
Best info I've heard so far, to purchase the right stuff!!👍 I'll be in this week with the grandson to help with his 5.7LS. We're in Foley, just a skip away, Thank you
The right cam and the wrong cam cost the same amount and generally people over cam not under cam and loose power in the range they use there engine and I laugh when people act like they know more than guy like you that dyno prove there theory and do it for a living great video lots of great info
I got a 5.3/t56 with sloppy stage 2 cam idle set at 900rpm and man she idles aggressive . Car moves side to side at idle I love it. Only paid $229 with pac springs and install was a breeze
Thanks for the video Bart. I'm stroking my LS1 to 383 and it is supercharged with a Harrop HTV1900. Currently has the stock cam in it (heads, valve springs, arp bolts, forged internals already but swapping some out). This video has been very helpful. I'm putting in a 224/230 .6 & .61 lift at 112 LSA. I'm not chasing power but low down torque and want to use a standard stall. I also want a little chop and the 112 LSA will give 3 degrees of overlap. Yes, I'll be losing boost but I'm not chasing max hp, just want that low down torque and a little chop. Also concerns about the blower running out of puff high in the rpm range, hence the cam size. Car is a WK Grange. Thanks from Australia!
I put a big circle track cam in my car when I was in my teens, it sounded mean, had top end, but all but needed a push start, I had to slip the clutch alot to get it moving, that didn't last long, I don't remember the spec's, but it had over 300° dur, and 106 lsa, it was crap until about 4k and wanted to keep going above 7k, I think it was a 4500-8500 cam, I'd had to put 4.88:1 gears to run that thing it would still been crappy, I had a truck also, I could jerk the doors on a cobra mustang, on the highway, but it didn't have that low down tq, I made a guy with that cobra feel bad, after spending all that money, then get out run by a 5,000 lb truck, I totally respect your knowledge, I'm here because I don't know LS engines, and looking for a decent Street cam for a 4.8 in a s10, with a turbo, and about 10-15 psi, I'd like the boost to give it the top end, and allow the cam to keep the 1500-2500 rpm tq, I'll probably be running a small amount of stall, maybe 500 over stock, so not really a stall converter, with stock 4.3 auto gears, and probably run the v6 converter, now I'm thinking about it, I know the 4L60's aren't the best, but I'm not racing on the strip, maybe the occasional trip down the track, I want the most power I can get, with the best mileage also, 3k at 65 is not me, (anymore) gas is too high, thanks for the video
I'm in New Zealand trying to choose a new ls1cam for my Holden Commodore and with the awesome information I've just received from you and this grouse video all I can say is sweet as cuzzy bro I've got a better understanding of what I need to do now tumeke cuz👍👍
Hate to correct you, but more overlap does not mean less cylinder pressure for the same duration cams. When you tighten the LC you are advancing the intake lobe which closes the valve sooner. Hence higher psi cranking pressure. Most oval track cars run 104 to 105 LC to help accelerate out of the corner. When I worked at Camonics years ago we found 105 to 106 made the highest peak power but the worst idle. 113 to 116 made less peak power but the best idle. Engines that are FI typically run wider LCs due to idle issues with low vacuum. This is naturally aspirated as turbos and blown cars favor 116 LC to keep from blowing the charge out the exhaust port. Your video is somewhat correct but you fail to talk about other items such as exhaust type, compression ratios, etc. which also factors into this.
I designed and built my own cylinder head with rotating tubes where I had to guess the values by myself. I ended up at about 250/250 with a 110 LSA @ 0.050" equivalent. It has about 4-5 inches of vacuum at 700 RPM idle. I was hoping it would work well at 6k+ rpm, but oddly enough the airflow is similar to stock between 4,000-7,000 rpm and a bit better below 4k. If I did it again, I would certainly go to something like 230/230 since it flows better than a poppet valve engine and so I can improve the idle.
Wow I followed this channel a long time ago because of Tallguy, now I stumble across your video today while I'm looking for tips building this ls for my Regal. Small racing world
You don’t choose a cam for an engine, you choose a cam for that engines end use. If you want a perfect cam, you’ll never find one. Every single grind has its own personality. Horsepower , Torque, or somewhere in the middle. You will make gains in some areas and lose in others. Thats the facts.
Thank you sir this video is helping me out alot im going to drop either a 5.3 or6.0 in my single cab silverado im going to use it everyday as a daily but every now and then ill race it and didnt want to buy a cam i wasnt going to be happy with and this video gave me a new view at cams
I went with what they recommend 231 243 duration @ 116 + 6 degrees.. 9 psi magi supercharger w/ stock heads 488 gears.And performed awesome. On the next bill going to order heads and cam as recommended , big dia. Header ...response was Instantaneous. I’ll always go with recommendations of cam heads after talking to the pros , BUT they have to listen to YOU and YOU have to listen to them
Good job! I actually understand the theory behind this now! Well explained my friend! I used to say it back in v8 vega days... it's all in the heads! Its flow!
Richard Holdner tested an LS down to 108 LSA and it made the best power everywhere. He also tested the loss of pressure and guess what no problem. The problem is everyone wants lots of duration and most small blocks don't need it. Run more conservative duration and tighten the LSA. You will make more average power. Fat area under the curve.
After what feels like half a lifetime spent trying to find the real story on cam selection for my 6.2 LS3 this video was like a breath of fresh air. Thank you for sharing your wisdom! I have a daily driver that I want to take road racing on weekends. I want to maintain driveability, make more power, and lope a bit at idle. Do you have a recommendation for a streetable 6.2 LS3 Camaro?
pretty sure tighter LSA usually ends up closing intake earlier which traps more air and increases DCR which boost cylinder pressure and that's why tight LSA cams tend to make more power. I went with a 218/227 112 +2° for my 6.0 2500HD, 10.6:1 comp
I like what you’re saying it’s actually better to go with a smaller camshaft to get a bigger performance and track ability. Especially when it’s a daily driver. I’ll be watching.
Needing a recommendation for a cam to go into my 6.0 motor, from an '03 Silverado. Swapping it along w/ @ 4L80 trans into my '92 K1500. Moving into a very fast paced city driving situation, so basically 0-60 quickness is key. But I do a lot of interstate travel too. Just tired of getting dusted in town with my TBI... Great vids, they're very informative and appreciated !
For me I try to make the most average power in the rpm range the engine is designed for, hence why its extremely important to be honest with yourself about what you are going to do with vehicle
Thanks so much.... starting a new project and came across your video. To my surprise I know your work from "Tall Guy" hellcat... I'm in the midst of selecting a cam for my 2001 ls1 camaro. The info you presented will help a lot. Thanks again.
What cam did u end up with. I built a vortec back in 2001. 700 carb, edelbrock performer intake and a 282/286 110° with a 106° centerline from reed cams. Put out 420hp. It was hard on the rocker to valve surface though. Im wanting to build another but would like to know how yours turned out with his combo. Id like to copy it. Thx
I love you everything you said about the LS1 LS 2 camshafts and all the tech inspects but I didn't hear nothing about the LS3 . I thought you were going to talk about the LS3 also which is the best motor they made in the LS series
Mr Wallace, there is only 1 thing you didn't cover. Crane Cam had a theory called hydralic intensity which covered the spread between .050s and advertised (where they measured at SAE standard or 004s). Comp Cams mesured advertised at .006s, which means you would have to add another 10 degrees at their advertised figures. Generally, if the spread was tightest between the 2 figures, and the most valve lift generated the most hp and torque figures. As far for Comp Cams, I always considered their Xtreme Cam line a pretty close copy of Crane cams. I also wish you had covered using variable duration lifters with large cams to widen out the power band as well. This has been the best discussion of selecting a camshaft for an engine as well I have seen.
hey everbody, if you want to reach me with questions either send me an email bart@hitechmotorsport.com or call me 763-712-9088. i answer every one as soon as i can. thanks bart.
I was talking to a woman I know, who DOES understand cars TO A POINT, and she is a math wizard with a college degree. She looked at me during one of our conversations about old cars and racing, and finally said to me "How can a 305 small block Chevy be faster than a same car with a 350 cubic inch engine?" and I looked at her and said "It is all in the math!" and for a moment she looked at me like I was lying to her in that answer!!! BUT has I went on to explain, you have to know EVERYTHING about the set up you are running!! Weight of the vehicle MATTERS, final drive gear ratios MATTER, and as I further explained to her as well, transmission gears, even engine performance parts ALL MATTER!!! Change ONE small thing in any engine and you can out run (on a drag strip) a V8 engine with a inline 6, if you have done the math correctly because EVERYTHING YOU DO to the car AND MOTOR as well as any gears in between MATTER!!!! And for a moment she looked at me confused!!! The sad thing is, I have seen guys try to run HUGE cams in a car that run like garbage on the high side of the power curve, but seem to run solid but sluggish on the take off, only making power mid way. I have seen guys run cams that are too small that make INSANE off the line power but fall flat shortly after take off, because they just didn't have enough cam to satisfy the same mid way power curve!! I have even seen guys who think stuffing a large carb on an engine will "fix this" and totally ignore allowing the exhaust to flow, and the list of things I have seen goes on and on and on from there to 4.11 rear gears in a car that just can't handle such a steep tooth in "normal" applications, when they should have ran something more "realistic" like 3.73 instead!!! Facts as they say DO NOT LIE!!! And it is all in the numbers!!! And you can stick in the biggest big block you can stuff into a car, and think "This will be fast" but if you ignore the rest of the numbers you might as well take all your work and hard earned money out into the driveway and set it all on fire.......because all you are doing is wasting your time if you don't do the math and follow the numbers with a fine tooth comb!!!!
I would argue that the 1.5 is typical but not a hard rule. Look at Ford gen 3 coyotes and 5.2s. They develop more than 1.5 per cube from the factory. With 1.82 per cube in their 5.2l crate engine. Aside from the physics of DOHC vs OHV I think 90 percent of their benefits are from being able to individually swing intake/exhaust independently by a large degree very quickly.
What an good spec cam for an 383 ls1 stroker with trickflow 220 heads with 2.055 intake valves and 1.57 exhaust valves and fast 102 intake and Tb , I had an 240/250 cam speced and the car felt like an dog , and only trapped 117mph in the 1/4 mile
vortec truck cams are different. the heads are only good for 540 lift with the guides. if you are still using the fuel injection system use a 220/224 540/540, on a 114 lobe sep. the vortec heads are very good but they have some limitations with the valve springs and fuel injection. b
Well explained and helped me out in choosing the cam for my needs. Thank you !!!! A good video on ported heads like small valve, dimple port , 365 cfm, 409 cfm etc would be nice
I have this setup LS2 engine with milled and CNC ported LS3 heads 11.1 compression l have a crane hydraulic roller with LS7 lifters you'll need a good set of hardened pushrods a good SFI harmonic balancer the cam specs are 226 intake 236 exhaust lift on intake is.551 on exhaust .600 on a engine dyno with no accessories it makes 540hp at 6900rpm 470 foot pounds of torque at 5200rpm at the crank and 400 foot pounds of torque or more from 3000rpm to 7200rpm it pulls very very hard in this range and redlines very fast it idles decent with a slight chop at 800rpm this setup does lose torque below 2400rpm but it's not drastic and runs smooth from 2000rpm up it's in a 1984 monte carlo ss it weighs 3380 with me in it it has a 3000 stall converter and 4.10 gears it is a weekend cruiser it has been in the car since 2008 and runs as good or better than when first put in but it's maintained very well with oil changes ECT it's best quarter mile time was 10.87 at 122.9mph which got me kicked off the track because of no rollbar but it had made 8 passes before in the 11.0 to 11.3 this setup will work good if your car is 3600 pounds or lighter with you in it it's not the right choice for a heavy 4200 pound or more truck or big heavy car and my car has power steering and brakes a 700r4 transmission with a lockup torque converter suspension is drag springs all the way around and lift bars in rear no coilovers stock type suspension it is driven to the track raced and driven home no trailer it also has a GM performance single plane intake and a holley HP 850cfm carburetor so l don't know how well this cam will work on late model fuel injection but I'm more than happy with this setup
@@crw3673 keep duration under 230 on intake and under 240 on exhaust unless it's a drag car with a 4500rpm stall to 5000rpm keep lift at or under 600 unless your going to put forged pistons with valve reliefs and it will run good and last a long time without headaches
@@crw3673 l also have a 15 percent underdrive pulley with a good electric fan it runs at 180 degrees even if in traffic or idling for long periods in 95 degree florida heat using a 1970 chevelle 454 4 core radiator the LSA on my cam is 112
@@gloriamaletta8667 this is for a 4 gen Camaro, with a t56 tran and 3.73 12 bolt rear end. This car will 95% street and 5% strip. Would love to see it idle around 600 - 800 rpm. But needs to have good street and highway manners. Am I asking too much?
1HP = 550Lbs moving up vertically 1 foot in one second. Horse pulling a rope over a pulley. At the other end of the rope is a 550Lb load being lifted out of a mine shaft.
One thing you did not talk about was rod ratio & piston speed and how that factors into the head flow numbers and how that can dictate the cam profile.
a marine grind in just about anything is great for the street, TQ BABY, TQ is what turns the shaft and gives you the pin you in your seat quick hard acceleration ....Great info for people that dont want to learn to degree a cam and understand the valve train. oB
Hi-Tech MotorSport I have 2 trucks one with a gen 3 5.3, the other with a new 6.2 and I want to turbo one and supercharge the other, so one on turbo cams would be nice too I suppose, as well as heads in relation to forced induction.
Great video Bart. Thanks for sharing your knowledge . Rebuilding my 6.0 in my 06 Hummer. Do you have a cam idea for towing 4000 lbs and street? Have another set of heads ported for it and 1.8 ratio roller rockers .
Not questioning your knowledge but you indicated that the ls3 heads had a really good i/e flow ratio, but all the information I have ever read indicates the rectangle port LS heads have one of the worst i/e flow ratios I have ever heard of, something like 59%. Not a terrible exhaust, but a really good intake port.
you are correct, the ls3/l92 head has a lot more intake flow than the ls1 head. consequently, you can use a much smaller lobe on the intake side to achieve the same results. however, current cams are being ground with a larger exhaust lobe to try and help the alleged issues for i/e disparity. the 229/249 on 115- plus 5 tries to get the timing events back into line. this results in a poor bottom end as the overlap tends to dilute the cylinder mixture. reher/morrison (sp) has some very good articles about cylinder head design and pro stock configuration. they are saying a cylinder head that is 66% to 68% flow i/e has proven to be the best in competition. also, be aware that cubic inch makes a huge difference in cam selection. b
There are plenty of dyno videos of 6.2's making over 600 at the crank with the only modified internal being the cam... this guy seems like he gets 90% right and refuses to entertain any other opinions, data or not.
whp or crank? My 347 CI ls6 makes 426whp through a 4l80e. So thats 511 crank hp with a 4l80e assuming 20% loss, so im almost there(1.5 would be 520 for me) 575 crank hp would be 1.5x for a 383ci
If you have a stock torque converter 3.73 gears in something 4200-5500 pounds a cam with 209/217 duration 112 lobe separation with .550 lift may not get great peak numbers but makes good torque and decent horsepower 2000rpm to 6000rpm will idle decent and can be daily driven without killing the gas mileage to much for a 5.3 or 6.0 with a decent exhaust and good heads should make 390- 420 horsepower with similar torque numbers at crank much stronger than stock in torque and horsepower 2500rpm and up and if you have a car 3600 pounds or less with a 3000rpm or more stall converter 4.10 gears with CNC ported LS3 heads 6.0 or 6.2 or more a decent choice for street and strip would be a cam with 227/243 duration 113 lobe separation with .600 to .620 lift this cam would loose some torque below 2800rpm but with CNC ported LS3 heads it should make really good power from 2800rpm to 7000+ and make 480-500 foot pounds of torque and 550-580 horsepower at the crank idle at 800rmp and have enough low end torque 2000rpm to 2500rpm to be streetable and enjoyable to drive on the street gas mileage is going to be affected not a daily driver
Such an awesome video you made and such a great job explaining. I have an Escalade 2005 with a 6.0 Vortec. I'm so lost trying to figure out a good cam to increase torque and hp with the right parts around a new cam. I plan to use this to tow my toys but I still want more all around power and speed. I have looked at so many configs and found one person who compared several cams in a LQ9. I'm very interested to hear your opinion on a 585 lift 228/230 duration and 112 LSA. Unfortunately I didn't get the list of other parts to make this complete but the curves looked nice. I would like to hear your opinion for a build around this cam and what you would do.
I saw a video from richard holdener where the only thing he changes was the lsa and on the engine dyno it showed the 108 getting better low end power vs 112 and 120. Around 17:20 in your video you said 113 would make a little more down low torque over the 112. Im just trying to get a little clarification. I've been doing a research so i can decide what cams i should use in my 2 cars im gonna be building
Context matters. Note he is talking about a truck engine designed to make more torque down low (lower RPMs). LSA is part of optimizing for the planned use of the engine based on its flow characteristics. None of the numbers live in a vacuum so Richard isolating one aspect of cam profile for demonstration of what it does on a specific configuration does not mean it holds true for another configuration. 112 LSA in engine A may not have the same impact as it would in engine B. Unfortunately there is not a perfect number for all engines, a lot depends on what that engine wants to flow - the cam just adjust how much of that potential flow is realized at various rpm which you want to match to your intended use. (Race engine built for high RPM struggles at low RPM because the cam is not optimal for the lower flow rate at low RPM - could improve that with LSA but at the cost of performance at high RPM - there is always a trade off. his main point is that you need to pick the cam grind that fits your use and just because the numbers are bigger on one cam from another does not make is "better").
@@stephenbotello5914 yes... plenty of them LS and non LS. You may even find comments on the one you speak of, but I can't remember which test are in which videos.
@@stephenbotello5914 Just re-watched, Richard is using the go to 402" test rig with heads flowing 350cfm. Note the last 30 seconds or so of the video where he asks the question about a smaller engine. Note the point he makes about the RPM range and question about idle quality. Note the advice in this video is about a truck engine which needs to produce some power down low. Its not a more of X always equals more of Y equation. There is a limit beyond which the results move the other way. Context matters and flow (fluid dynamics) is not always a linear equation thing. (And Richard is right that boost can make a lot of those compromises irrelevant).
He’s like a parent telling you something you don’t want to hear .....but you know they are right !
Ya, absolutely,
Bow that you mentioned it. lol , like. "Listen, I'm only gonna tell you this once".
Lmao
It can be if you want it that way ...
There's ways to build engines more efficiently and father more power than he thinks. His obstinance is not truth or wisdom.
someone actually explain something really well thank you sir
When the man wears his glasses at the tip of his nose, he knows his stuff!! Glad he spent some time for this video! Thank you
THIS MAN IS A EXCELLENT INSTRUCTOR ..IF I WERE IN HIS CLASS I WOULD GET THE FRONT SEAT WOULDNT WANT TO MISS NOTHING..GREAT PRESENTATION ..I CAN TELL HE BEEN DOING THIS FOR ALONG TIME..
Thank you! This is absolutely, without a doubt, the most informative and intelligent explanation I have found for specing out a cam. I am starting to plan a build on my 2001 corvette and will definitely be refering back to this video when it comes time to select a camshaft. I want the lumpy idle but more importantly, I want a cam that works with my set up and my needs more than just a sound. Thank you again!!!
I also have a 2001 corvette and i want to start modifying the engine! What cam did you end up getting? Any suggestions?
I would put a 221 225 on a 112 and it will roast tires all day because torque will come in sooner
@@utahcountypicazospage5412 I run a 224/228 on 112 .550 lift in my 98 z28 LS1. 3200 rpm stall 2.1 torque converter.
I went to Hi-Tech back in 2004 to get their custom grind cam for my 2000 Camaro LS/MT. I had all bolt ons and was looking for a little more power. I installed the cam and took it to Hi-Tech to get it tuned. Car ran perfect , I sold the car back in 2013 - Hi-Tech knows these LS motors! Glad to see you guys making YT vids!
Where are they located?
@@grand3lyfecuhh798 Minnesota
What cam specs
Awesome video. It is so freaking hard to find someone who wants to build a motor for efficiency over a dollar and bragging rights that doesn't matter. You started to touch on the LS3/ L99. I would appreciate the hell out of it if you would make a video about that/them. Thanks for what you do! If it wasn't for people like you the car world wouldn't be the same today!
Ah, what id pay to spend a day wrenching with this guy. Thanks for the knowledge, from Canada.
Keep them coming. The numbers will come. We're watching all the knowledge
I want to spend my money with this guy. Very transparent. Most guys just want your money and send you on your way instead of educating you to get the best bang for your buck.
same. or tell you they recommend going all acdelco everything and that they dont know about anything aftermarket.
I’ve learned more from this guy than I have from mechanics from my hometown. Thank you.
Just wanted to say thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m coming from the sport bike world to Chevys and LS motors. This helps me figure out cams to look at.
The Guru broke it down for us. Really appreciate the science. Great vid
if you just want the "chop Chop" use a 232/242 on a 108 lobe sep. it wont pull its way out of a wet paper bag, and it will get 9 mpg but it will give you Chop Chop. but i will not grind it for you.
I’m about to do a ls swap in my 1990 gmc short bed with 373 posi , I want the maximum hp I can get ,but I want a fair fuel economy.Im planning on really just installing a cam for power purpose,because they usually sound good either way so can you help me determine which cam to use for a stock 5.3 or 6.0 ls swap
Hi-Tech MotorSport Lol that son of a bitch is weaker than cat piss!
@@marvisblockum1327 he is giving you the info you need
Dear Lo-Tech. Check out Richard Holdener's channel. He has 100's if not 1000's of dyno runs documented. He did testing on LS cam LSA. He literally tested the exact cam you said would not not pull it's way out of wet paper bag. Guess what? It made the most power. Not just the most peak power, it made the most power everywhere on the curve. Just search LSA cam test. Maybe you might learn something. PS if you want good gas mileage get a KIA.
I have an lq4 with 706 heads. Was thinking 210/213 @.050 600/600 on a 108. Should make good torque?
Thank you sr. I followed you instructions and ran a 12.00 with a 6.0 in a 3000lb truck and it feels great.
what cam specs?
At 16:34 you nailed it man I made an LS cam selection video based on what we learned on the dyno over the years, I am astounded at how close your numbers are to mine I knew most of this but it's nice to get some confirmation anyway I have been saying the exact same thing with good flowing heads a ton of overlap is not only not necessary it causes lousy performance good video
Watched yours as well, chose a 217/225 .595 .587 114+2 Cam Motion cam for a 6.0 in my almost 4k lb street car, for all the reasons you both talk about. More concerned with driveability and low/mid torque than max peak hp. Not installed yet as it's my daily driver, I think I made a good choice. Your thoughts on my selection ?
Looking back at your cam selection video , I already asked your opinion 8 months ago 😂👍
my first week starting ls swaps, I sold 4 in a week and thank-you for the info. With this, I'll be better able to make my customers happy.
Awsome to hear an experienced engine builder with real world knowledge talk about something so complex and makes it easy to understand. Where was this video in my life? Lets blow this video up
Bart did work on my 02 Mustang, I couldn't have been happier! He's a great guy to talk to! If you go to his shop, prepare to drool!! ~SGT. Hot Wheels.
I stumbled on this video and it is the best tech info I have heard in years. Thank you!!
Good info! About three years after this video the hot LS truck cam is the Truck Norris which has a really narrow LSA (~108). This guy likes wide LSA’s after thousands of dyno runs! What gives?!? I know that a torquey street engine can be had with a little compression, smaller ports for higher velocity and a narrow LSA. I have a BBC set up that way and it’s nasty as a porta potty on a hot day!
Didn’t sound at all like rambling, just experience and knowledge. Great video Bart !
This was the best information on cams ive ever seen well done my friend
The 233/253 @ 0.050 .646/.637 on a 112+4 in my LS3 Camaro would probably fall on the extreme/max effort end of your scale - but even with stock compression it performs well and has surprisingly good manners for 19* of overlap at 0.050. It's ahead on power and torque for 3200 on up, picked up 70hp at the wheels, and 6-7mph in the quarter mile (probably more if I could get more than 4.10 in the rear). Sure, dynamic compression took a pretty good hit with that much overlap, but eventually I'll get these heads milled and bring that back. Honestly, it's street manners aren't bad at all for what it is, I put about 5k miles a year on the car, and I'm smiling the whole time.
I'm sure it's not news to you, but you never touched on tuning in your video. I don't think you can overstate how important that is to the way any camshaft is going to drive. A poor tune will make a mild cam drive like trash, and a good tune can take a rowdy piece and make it very reasonable to live with. I've nitpicked mine to death myself over the last few years, and the little things like injection timing and light load spark tuning makes all the difference in those bad manners areas.
But great video - I think you stressed a key factor really well: be honest about what you really want to do with the vehicle, and make a choice based on usage, not what sounds cool. If you're not willing to put a converter and gears in it, and not willing to tolerate some misbehavior, stay away from big duration stuff!
the Legend
@@Ws6Ms lol!
Hey Andrew, where can I message you about finding a cam setup for my ls3?
Jesus brought me to this channel!!! About to rebuild my 2006 GMC Sierra CrewCab w/5.3L, and it’s an everyday truck, that occasionally pulls a trailer full of landscaping materials. I don’t need a Sloppy Stage II cam, for sure. Thank you for real world application information🙏🏽💯✊🏽
Thank you for the great information. I completely agree with what you said. I've learned the hard way over the years and also seen many people make the mistake of over camming engines and end up unhappy with performance.
LMAO - this shows up in my recommendations and 3 minutes in, I am thinking to myself I need to go to Wallace Racing and use their calculators again... Such a wonderful resource, just gotta make sure you know what those number mean and remember your conversion factors.
yummy yummy knowledge. god i love it. i feel like i should be paying for all this info!!!!!!!!!! amazing video
Awesome vid! It's had to believe people are still trying to run big camshafts with a stock converter... The factory grinds are almost big enough to warrant a stall converter. Gotta love the torque of a mild cam in an LS on the street... Everything feels like the old 327-375hp these days...❤
Great video , thank you . Now back in the day PAW advertised a SBC cam that stated it WAS a 360/360 , always got a chuckle from that and you just reminded me ....thanks again
4.8/5.3L if you want to keep stock stall and trans go with something around 205-216 intake 210-220 exhaust range. Barts 223/227 cam will need a stall converter, which is perfectly fine. However, on my daily driver and for towing I like the stock stall.
Finally good straight up advice from experience..Thanks.
Not rambling at all. Makes a lot of sense. Good stuff. Thanks.
I just want that Chop-Chop.
literally this. f the EPA I wanna spit flaaamez
Check out tick cams!
cackle cackle cackle
228/232 .550 109lsa chop chop chop
3:10 math.
Air Flow Research lists the heads I have flow at 260 cfm on the intake at .500 lift.
So...
260 x 2 = 520
520 x .10 = 52
520 + 52 = 572 h.p.
EVERYONE STOP AND READ THIS!!!! This Guy Is An Absolute Amateur in Valve Event Timing... The info in this vid is about useless if your actually looking for max tq, hp & trapped Volumetric efficiency across the entire curve in an LS or any given v8 engine combo... Any body that sees this i highly recomend Watching bolth of Cattledog Garage's camshaft videos if you want pro stock level knowledge and beyond, Adam at Cattledog Garage explains stuff that dont exist anywhere on the entire internet and with dyno data for proof of concept to back up his words... Im a 73 year old ex Pro stock & Nascar engine builder, ive learned more from listening to Adam at Cattledog Garage for 2 hours than i have from a 3day $1200 David Vizard Seminar and more than the entirety of Billy Godbolds newest Book...
Adam is an absolute Genious!!!
Best info I've heard so far, to purchase the right stuff!!👍 I'll be in this week with the grandson to help with his 5.7LS. We're in Foley, just a skip away, Thank you
The right cam and the wrong cam cost the same amount and generally people over cam not under cam and loose power in the range they use there engine and I laugh when people act like they know more than guy like you that dyno prove there theory and do it for a living great video lots of great info
I got a 5.3/t56 with sloppy stage 2 cam idle set at 900rpm and man she idles aggressive . Car moves side to side at idle I love it. Only paid $229 with pac springs and install was a breeze
Did you have to install a stall converter and what heads would you swap with that?
Thanks for the video Bart. I'm stroking my LS1 to 383 and it is supercharged with a Harrop HTV1900. Currently has the stock cam in it (heads, valve springs, arp bolts, forged internals already but swapping some out). This video has been very helpful. I'm putting in a 224/230 .6 & .61 lift at 112 LSA. I'm not chasing power but low down torque and want to use a standard stall. I also want a little chop and the 112 LSA will give 3 degrees of overlap. Yes, I'll be losing boost but I'm not chasing max hp, just want that low down torque and a little chop. Also concerns about the blower running out of puff high in the rpm range, hence the cam size. Car is a WK Grange. Thanks from Australia!
I put a big circle track cam in my car when I was in my teens, it sounded mean, had top end, but all but needed a push start, I had to slip the clutch alot to get it moving, that didn't last long, I don't remember the spec's, but it had over 300° dur, and 106 lsa, it was crap until about 4k and wanted to keep going above 7k, I think it was a 4500-8500 cam, I'd had to put 4.88:1 gears to run that thing it would still been crappy, I had a truck also, I could jerk the doors on a cobra mustang, on the highway, but it didn't have that low down tq, I made a guy with that cobra feel bad, after spending all that money, then get out run by a 5,000 lb truck, I totally respect your knowledge, I'm here because I don't know LS engines, and looking for a decent Street cam for a 4.8 in a s10, with a turbo, and about 10-15 psi, I'd like the boost to give it the top end, and allow the cam to keep the 1500-2500 rpm tq, I'll probably be running a small amount of stall, maybe 500 over stock, so not really a stall converter, with stock 4.3 auto gears, and probably run the v6 converter, now I'm thinking about it, I know the 4L60's aren't the best, but I'm not racing on the strip, maybe the occasional trip down the track, I want the most power I can get, with the best mileage also, 3k at 65 is not me, (anymore) gas is too high, thanks for the video
Excellent video your knowledge will be building a 5.3 real soon your 475 to 500 horsepower is the range I really want to get
Did you reach your HP goals?
this is very helpful because i have a 5.3 in 1974 and i want a cam that doesn't require a stall or change the rocker arms
Just seeing this video now, love the amount of information I got from this video.
I'm in New Zealand trying to choose a new ls1cam for my Holden Commodore and with the awesome information I've just received from you and this grouse video all I can say is sweet as cuzzy bro I've got a better understanding of what I need to do now tumeke cuz👍👍
Hate to correct you, but more overlap does not mean less cylinder pressure for the same duration cams. When you tighten the LC you are advancing the intake lobe which closes the valve sooner. Hence higher psi cranking pressure.
Most oval track cars run 104 to 105 LC to help accelerate out of the corner.
When I worked at Camonics years ago we found 105 to 106 made the highest peak power but the worst idle.
113 to 116 made less peak power but the best idle.
Engines that are FI typically run wider LCs due to idle issues with low vacuum.
This is naturally aspirated as turbos and blown cars favor 116 LC to keep from blowing the charge out the exhaust port.
Your video is somewhat correct but you fail to talk about other items such as exhaust type, compression ratios, etc. which also factors into this.
do you mean LS (Lobe Separation) instead of LC?
I designed and built my own cylinder head with rotating tubes where I had to guess the values by myself. I ended up at about 250/250 with a 110 LSA @ 0.050" equivalent. It has about 4-5 inches of vacuum at 700 RPM idle. I was hoping it would work well at 6k+ rpm, but oddly enough the airflow is similar to stock between 4,000-7,000 rpm and a bit better below 4k. If I did it again, I would certainly go to something like 230/230 since it flows better than a poppet valve engine and so I can improve the idle.
13.55 Thank you for saying this - 100% agree.
Is there a part 2 for this??? Cause I'm ready for it
Wow I followed this channel a long time ago because of Tallguy, now I stumble across your video today while I'm looking for tips building this ls for my Regal. Small racing world
You don’t choose a cam for an engine, you choose a cam for that engines end use. If you want a perfect cam, you’ll never find one. Every single grind has its own personality. Horsepower , Torque, or somewhere in the middle. You will make gains in some areas and lose in others. Thats the facts.
Thank you sir this video is helping me out alot im going to drop either a 5.3 or6.0 in my single cab silverado im going to use it everyday as a daily but every now and then ill race it and didnt want to buy a cam i wasnt going to be happy with and this video gave me a new view at cams
I went with what they recommend 231 243 duration @ 116 + 6 degrees.. 9 psi magi supercharger w/ stock heads 488 gears.And performed awesome. On the next bill going to order heads and cam as recommended , big dia. Header ...response was Instantaneous. I’ll always go with recommendations of cam heads after talking to the pros , BUT they have to listen to YOU and YOU have to listen to them
Good job! I actually understand the theory behind this now! Well explained my friend! I used to say it back in v8 vega days... it's all in the heads! Its flow!
Tha for taking the time out to learn us... 👍
Richard Holdner tested an LS down to 108 LSA and it made the best power everywhere. He also tested the loss of pressure and guess what no problem. The problem is everyone wants lots of duration and most small blocks don't need it. Run more conservative duration and tighten the LSA. You will make more average power. Fat area under the curve.
After what feels like half a lifetime spent trying to find the real story on cam selection for my 6.2 LS3 this video was like a breath of fresh air. Thank you for sharing your wisdom! I have a daily driver that I want to take road racing on weekends. I want to maintain driveability, make more power, and lope a bit at idle. Do you have a recommendation for a streetable 6.2 LS3 Camaro?
One year later and ??? What did you find out?
pretty sure tighter LSA usually ends up closing intake earlier which traps more air and increases DCR which boost cylinder pressure and that's why tight LSA cams tend to make more power.
I went with a 218/227 112 +2° for my 6.0 2500HD, 10.6:1 comp
Yea, that BTR Truck Norris is 216/227 @108* LSA....You’re close except for that LSA.
I like what you’re saying it’s actually better to go with a smaller camshaft to get a bigger performance and track ability. Especially when it’s a daily driver. I’ll be watching.
Thanks dad I needed a lily toe peep talk while I’m trying to spec out this 6.0 👍🏿
Needing a recommendation for a cam to go into my 6.0 motor, from an '03 Silverado. Swapping it along w/ @ 4L80 trans into my '92 K1500. Moving into a very fast paced city driving situation, so basically 0-60 quickness is key. But I do a lot of interstate travel too. Just tired of getting dusted in town with my TBI... Great vids, they're very informative and appreciated !
And I'm hot blooded so I'll be almost always have the AC on... I understand some cam profiles don't work well with AC.
For me I try to make the most average power in the rpm range the engine is designed for, hence why its extremely important to be honest with yourself about what you are going to do with vehicle
Thanks so much.... starting a new project and came across your video. To my surprise I know your work from "Tall Guy" hellcat... I'm in the midst of selecting a cam for my 2001 ls1 camaro. The info you presented will help a lot. Thanks again.
great video, thank you for sharing all your knowledge. I am about to attempt this for the first time.
Bart is very generous & helpful. Thank you for the recipe on my 96vortec 5.7 I appreciate your expertise!!
What cam did u end up with. I built a vortec back in 2001. 700 carb, edelbrock performer intake and a 282/286 110° with a 106° centerline from reed cams. Put out 420hp. It was hard on the rocker to valve surface though. Im wanting to build another but would like to know how yours turned out with his combo. Id like to copy it. Thx
I love you everything you said about the LS1 LS 2 camshafts and all the tech inspects but I didn't hear nothing about the LS3 . I thought you were going to talk about the LS3 also which is the best motor they made in the LS series
Mr Wallace, there is only 1 thing you didn't cover. Crane Cam had a theory called hydralic intensity which covered the spread between .050s and advertised (where they measured at SAE standard or 004s). Comp Cams mesured advertised at .006s, which means you would have to add another 10 degrees at their advertised figures. Generally, if the spread was tightest between the 2 figures, and the most valve lift generated the most hp and torque figures. As far for Comp Cams, I always considered their Xtreme Cam line a pretty close copy of Crane cams. I also wish you had covered using variable duration lifters with large cams to widen out the power band as well. This has been the best discussion of selecting a camshaft for an engine as well I have seen.
hey everbody, if you want to reach me with questions either send me an email bart@hitechmotorsport.com or call me 763-712-9088. i answer every one as soon as i can. thanks bart.
I was talking to a woman I know, who DOES understand cars TO A POINT, and she is a math wizard with a college degree. She looked at me during one of our conversations about old cars and racing, and finally said to me "How can a 305 small block Chevy be faster than a same car with a 350 cubic inch engine?" and I looked at her and said "It is all in the math!" and for a moment she looked at me like I was lying to her in that answer!!!
BUT has I went on to explain, you have to know EVERYTHING about the set up you are running!! Weight of the vehicle MATTERS, final drive gear ratios MATTER, and as I further explained to her as well, transmission gears, even engine performance parts ALL MATTER!!! Change ONE small thing in any engine and you can out run (on a drag strip) a V8 engine with a inline 6, if you have done the math correctly because EVERYTHING YOU DO to the car AND MOTOR as well as any gears in between MATTER!!!! And for a moment she looked at me confused!!!
The sad thing is, I have seen guys try to run HUGE cams in a car that run like garbage on the high side of the power curve, but seem to run solid but sluggish on the take off, only making power mid way. I have seen guys run cams that are too small that make INSANE off the line power but fall flat shortly after take off, because they just didn't have enough cam to satisfy the same mid way power curve!!
I have even seen guys who think stuffing a large carb on an engine will "fix this" and totally ignore allowing the exhaust to flow, and the list of things I have seen goes on and on and on from there to 4.11 rear gears in a car that just can't handle such a steep tooth in "normal" applications, when they should have ran something more "realistic" like 3.73 instead!!!
Facts as they say DO NOT LIE!!! And it is all in the numbers!!! And you can stick in the biggest big block you can stuff into a car, and think "This will be fast" but if you ignore the rest of the numbers you might as well take all your work and hard earned money out into the driveway and set it all on fire.......because all you are doing is wasting your time if you don't do the math and follow the numbers with a fine tooth comb!!!!
GREAT STORY,
SO TRUE.
THANKS.
excellent video sir! I understand cams so much better now
Nice video sir, I have stack 4.8 L and I going to put a cam wish do you recommend or I can buy from you.
I would argue that the 1.5 is typical but not a hard rule. Look at Ford gen 3 coyotes and 5.2s. They develop more than 1.5 per cube from the factory. With 1.82 per cube in their 5.2l crate engine. Aside from the physics of DOHC vs OHV I think 90 percent of their benefits are from being able to individually swing intake/exhaust independently by a large degree very quickly.
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge!
What an good spec cam for an 383 ls1 stroker with trickflow 220 heads with 2.055 intake valves and 1.57 exhaust valves and fast 102 intake and Tb , I had an 240/250 cam speced and the car felt like an dog , and only trapped 117mph in the 1/4 mile
Ok next time can you talk about the 5.7 vortec truck engine because thats what I have and looking to get the most out of my engine
vortec truck cams are different. the heads are only good for 540 lift with the guides. if you are still using the fuel injection system use a 220/224 540/540, on a 114 lobe sep. the vortec heads are very good but they have some limitations with the valve springs and fuel injection. b
Great video, very informative. I’ll call ya when I’m ready. Thanks! 👍🏻
whats best for daily driver 4.8 ?
Well explained and helped me out in choosing the cam for my needs. Thank you !!!! A good video on ported heads like small valve, dimple port , 365 cfm, 409 cfm etc would be nice
Jesus, what heads are you using with that much cfm? Sounds like they're huge.
Was waiting for cam recommendations for 6.0 and ls3/l92 heads? But great video and even better advice!
I have this setup LS2 engine with milled and CNC ported LS3 heads 11.1 compression l have a crane hydraulic roller with LS7 lifters you'll need a good set of hardened pushrods a good SFI harmonic balancer the cam specs are 226 intake 236 exhaust lift on intake is.551 on exhaust .600 on a engine dyno with no accessories it makes 540hp at 6900rpm 470 foot pounds of torque at 5200rpm at the crank and 400 foot pounds of torque or more from 3000rpm to 7200rpm it pulls very very hard in this range and redlines very fast it idles decent with a slight chop at 800rpm this setup does lose torque below 2400rpm but it's not drastic and runs smooth from 2000rpm up it's in a 1984 monte carlo ss it weighs 3380 with me in it it has a 3000 stall converter and 4.10 gears it is a weekend cruiser it has been in the car since 2008 and runs as good or better than when first put in but it's maintained very well with oil changes ECT it's best quarter mile time was 10.87 at 122.9mph which got me kicked off the track because of no rollbar but it had made 8 passes before in the 11.0 to 11.3 this setup will work good if your car is 3600 pounds or lighter with you in it it's not the right choice for a heavy 4200 pound or more truck or big heavy car and my car has power steering and brakes a 700r4 transmission with a lockup torque converter suspension is drag springs all the way around and lift bars in rear no coilovers stock type suspension it is driven to the track raced and driven home no trailer it also has a GM performance single plane intake and a holley HP 850cfm carburetor so l don't know how well this cam will work on late model fuel injection but I'm more than happy with this setup
@@gloriamaletta8667 thank you
@@crw3673 keep duration under 230 on intake and under 240 on exhaust unless it's a drag car with a 4500rpm stall to 5000rpm keep lift at or under 600 unless your going to put forged pistons with valve reliefs and it will run good and last a long time without headaches
@@crw3673 l also have a 15 percent underdrive pulley with a good electric fan it runs at 180 degrees even if in traffic or idling for long periods in 95 degree florida heat using a 1970 chevelle 454 4 core radiator the LSA on my cam is 112
@@gloriamaletta8667 this is for a 4 gen Camaro, with a t56 tran and 3.73 12 bolt rear end. This car will 95% street and 5% strip. Would love to see it idle around 600 - 800 rpm. But needs to have good street and highway manners. Am I asking too much?
Happy to see your channel I love your work with tall guy
Thanks Bart, that was a great and informative video!! Really enjoyed how you simplified and explained how cams actually work!
Excellent video! Helped me decide what I wanna do with my 08 z71 silverado
At 3:17 you said it's the Max hp the head can make in any application. You forgot boosted. You can double that hp per atmosphere added.
1HP = 550Lbs moving up vertically 1 foot in one second. Horse pulling a rope over a pulley. At the other end of the rope is a 550Lb load being lifted out of a mine shaft.
One thing you did not talk about was rod ratio & piston speed and how that factors into the head flow numbers and how that can dictate the cam profile.
Very educational I'm a newbie and I'm researching how to build my 98 z28 camaro ls1.
Appreciate your time and wisdom. Thank you
a marine grind in just about anything is great for the street, TQ BABY, TQ is what turns the shaft and gives you the pin you in your seat quick hard acceleration ....Great info for people that dont want to learn to degree a cam and understand the valve train.
oB
Great video Bart! I wish I had this when I chose my cam.
Can you do one of these in relation to superchargers?
I will for sure add that onto the list. Any other videos you would like to see??
Hi-Tech MotorSport I have 2 trucks one with a gen 3 5.3, the other with a new 6.2 and I want to turbo one and supercharge the other, so one on turbo cams would be nice too I suppose, as well as heads in relation to forced induction.
Great video Bart. Thanks for sharing your knowledge . Rebuilding my 6.0 in my 06 Hummer. Do you have a cam idea for towing 4000 lbs and street? Have another set of heads ported for it and 1.8 ratio roller rockers .
Not questioning your knowledge but you indicated that the ls3 heads had a really good i/e flow ratio, but all the information I have ever read indicates the rectangle port LS heads have one of the worst i/e flow ratios I have ever heard of, something like 59%. Not a terrible exhaust, but a really good intake port.
you are correct, the ls3/l92 head has a lot more intake flow than the ls1 head. consequently, you can use a much smaller lobe on the intake side to achieve the same results. however, current cams are being ground with a larger exhaust lobe to try and help the alleged issues for i/e disparity. the 229/249 on 115- plus 5 tries to get the timing events back into line. this results in a poor bottom end as the overlap tends to dilute the cylinder mixture. reher/morrison (sp) has some very good articles about cylinder head design and pro stock configuration. they are saying a cylinder head that is 66% to 68% flow i/e has proven to be the best in competition. also, be aware that cubic inch makes a huge difference in cam selection. b
GOOD Stuff! Thank you!!! we have a 5.3 we are building right now
Great video,easy to follow. I wiil definitely be emailing and now subscribing. Thanks from Nigel in Australia 👍
There are plenty of dyno videos of 6.2's making over 600 at the crank with the only modified internal being the cam... this guy seems like he gets 90% right and refuses to entertain any other opinions, data or not.
Where's the hemi camshaft video? Great video.
My 383 makes 535 HP.. your right on the 1.5 HP per cube
whp or crank? My 347 CI ls6 makes 426whp through a 4l80e. So thats 511 crank hp with a 4l80e assuming 20% loss, so im almost there(1.5 would be 520 for me) 575 crank hp would be 1.5x for a 383ci
ShadowOfDeath24 all depends on the tune
Dude should make a series to include force fed and nitrous cams.
If you have a stock torque converter 3.73 gears in something 4200-5500 pounds a cam with 209/217 duration 112 lobe separation with .550 lift may not get great peak numbers but makes good torque and decent horsepower 2000rpm to 6000rpm will idle decent and can be daily driven without killing the gas mileage to much for a 5.3 or 6.0 with a decent exhaust and good heads should make 390- 420 horsepower with similar torque numbers at crank much stronger than stock in torque and horsepower 2500rpm and up and if you have a car 3600 pounds or less with a 3000rpm or more stall converter 4.10 gears with CNC ported LS3 heads 6.0 or 6.2 or more a decent choice for street and strip would be a cam with 227/243 duration 113 lobe separation with .600 to .620 lift this cam would loose some torque below 2800rpm but with CNC ported LS3 heads it should make really good power from 2800rpm to 7000+ and make 480-500 foot pounds of torque and 550-580 horsepower at the crank idle at 800rmp and have enough low end torque 2000rpm to 2500rpm to be streetable and enjoyable to drive on the street gas mileage is going to be affected not a daily driver
Such an awesome video you made and such a great job explaining. I have an Escalade 2005 with a 6.0 Vortec. I'm so lost trying to figure out a good cam to increase torque and hp with the right parts around a new cam. I plan to use this to tow my toys but I still want more all around power and speed. I have looked at so many configs and found one person who compared several cams in a LQ9. I'm very interested to hear your opinion on a 585 lift 228/230 duration and 112 LSA. Unfortunately I didn't get the list of other parts to make this complete but the curves looked nice. I would like to hear your opinion for a build around this cam and what you would do.
Just watched more of your post and the overlap is 5 so it sounds like I'm back to the drawing board
I saw a video from richard holdener where the only thing he changes was the lsa and on the engine dyno it showed the 108 getting better low end power vs 112 and 120. Around 17:20 in your video you said 113 would make a little more down low torque over the 112. Im just trying to get a little clarification. I've been doing a research so i can decide what cams i should use in my 2 cars im gonna be building
Context matters. Note he is talking about a truck engine designed to make more torque down low (lower RPMs). LSA is part of optimizing for the planned use of the engine based on its flow characteristics. None of the numbers live in a vacuum so Richard isolating one aspect of cam profile for demonstration of what it does on a specific configuration does not mean it holds true for another configuration. 112 LSA in engine A may not have the same impact as it would in engine B. Unfortunately there is not a perfect number for all engines, a lot depends on what that engine wants to flow - the cam just adjust how much of that potential flow is realized at various rpm which you want to match to your intended use. (Race engine built for high RPM struggles at low RPM because the cam is not optimal for the lower flow rate at low RPM - could improve that with LSA but at the cost of performance at high RPM - there is always a trade off. his main point is that you need to pick the cam grind that fits your use and just because the numbers are bigger on one cam from another does not make is "better").
@@opieg7333 did you even watch Richard holder's video?
@@stephenbotello5914 yes... plenty of them LS and non LS. You may even find comments on the one you speak of, but I can't remember which test are in which videos.
@@opieg7333 I'm not talking about all his other videos 🤦♂️ only the one where he specifically test the lsa
@@stephenbotello5914 Just re-watched, Richard is using the go to 402" test rig with heads flowing 350cfm. Note the last 30 seconds or so of the video where he asks the question about a smaller engine. Note the point he makes about the RPM range and question about idle quality. Note the advice in this video is about a truck engine which needs to produce some power down low. Its not a more of X always equals more of Y equation. There is a limit beyond which the results move the other way. Context matters and flow (fluid dynamics) is not always a linear equation thing. (And Richard is right that boost can make a lot of those compromises irrelevant).