Just wanted to say THANKS for this video. I've never replaced an anode before and was intimidated by the prospect of simultaneously not successfully removing it but destroying the threads so that I couldn't simply reconnect it. I probably watched 2 dozen videos - they all said the same thing, and yeah, it's simple ... but what if I destroy that rod without getting it out? Your advice about the mallet was the advice I needed. Sure enough, mine would not budge, and more leverage simply meant it was easier to move the whole tank. But short firm taps with the rubber mallet ... that turned my pipe wrench into an impact driver, and the rod was popped out of its seat without the tank moving an inch. I'd been quoted $475 to do the job, and your demo with the mallet gave me the confidence to do it myself.
I changed mine today, my tank is 11 years old I changed the anonode today it came out sportive ok, I had to put in the segmented one. I then drained the tank. I'm 83 . Thanks for the video. Jim80 .
Hey, brother, just wanted to let you know that this video is still out there helping people. Got a couple of laughs out of your commentary as well. Thanks for doing this!
YOU MY FRIEND ARE MY GO-TO GURU !! YOU HELPED THIS OLE LADY FIX MY AC SEVERAL TIMES AND MORE, YOU SHOULD TEACH SOME UTUBERS HOW TO MAKE VIDEOS WITHOUT ALL THE BLAH BLAH BLAH💪😇
Thank you for this video. I watched a bunch of other videos first that tell you to use a cheater bar and one even said to have a friend hold the water heater while you wrench it. There's no good spot to hold a water heater. I tried on my own but the water heater rotated on me and I didn't even use that much force. I called plumbers and got estimates around $200 to have them do it. Then I happen to stumble upon this video and the mallet method worked for me. I was able to change the anode rod. You saved me $200!
Just replaced mine at 4 years old for first time. Had a lot of life left in it. I would say that if they wear evenly it would have gone 12 years. But not sure they wear evenly or progressively faster once wear starts. Mine came out extremely easily. 12” socket with almost no effort at all. Very relieved. I’m replacing it with a CORRO-PROTEC electric anode rode that is supposed to last 20 years or more. For me this will be the only and last time it do this job due to my age 👍🏻🤣
I have an 80 gal electric AO Smith, almost ten years old. I replaced the two elements and the thermostat. I couldn't get the anode rod out even with a 2 foot automotive breaker bar. I was going to try an impact gun but tried your hammer method. It worked. Thanks
Do not apply teflontape all the way to the top of the thread, anode must have a good earth connection to the tank, I should know, I am an ex employee of AO Smith,otherwise i enjoyed this video, fun to watch, greetings from the other side of the world
@@ppainterco It is actually called cathodic protection, works like a battery, a very small current flows between the tank and the anode, a good connection to the tank is very important, otherwise it won't work....there are with external power supply and without, this is without external power supply, operation is the same
I didn't use dope or teflon tape on the threads since there wasn't any from the factory and I didn't have any leaks. I'm sure it's going to be harder to remove next year when I check it again, but since I check every year, I'm not worried.
Excellent video. Just replaced my water heater for the third time and the price was double for this installation. Definitely will be flushing and replacing anode rod to extend its life. Hiring a plumber has become a very expensive option…
Thanks for the great video! I’m impressed that you actually took off the anode rod on the video as opposed to having it pre- loosened before filming - helps to see the actual difficulty to expect for this project!
Well if the worst case scenario would have happened, this video likely would not have been posted. :) But I did try to capture the actual process without doing stuff off camera. Glad you found that useful!
@@WordofAdviceTV yeah, this is what *always* happens 2 me. videos r all nice&smooth. i get 2 do it and immediately get stuck because of the differences in installation, environment and what not. your case only proves the fact it's totally $hitty today (and only going 2 get worse). in my case the rod's top is actually inside a foam. yeah... no case/casing... foam (the spray-kind 1) is right under the plug, all around the tank... i had 2 cut through the foam. and it's also stuck 2 the rod's bolt head... will have 2 b real careful when replacing later. the bolt head is also waaaaaaay down below. about 3-something inches - need 2 buy special stuff...
Just a few comments: To clear out the "gunk" that was restricting his anode rod from going into the tank. I would recommend getting a smaller wire brush, rather than using the screwdriver method that he did. Or, they make a wire brush bit that will go into a cordless drill. Just do a search on "cordless drill wire brush attachment". You should find them pretty easily. Get one of appropriate size to fit the Anode hole. Don't use your drill like your drilling through wood. Gently clean the open hole. Also, clean the hole good enough that the rod slides in easy. You shouldn't have to push like he did in the video. Here's the problem with what he did. He was still having difficulty pushing the rod in and instead of pulling it out and cleaning the hole better he just pushed forward and got it in. I know what you all are thinking.. well he got it in. Yes, true he got it in. My guess is, he'll never get it out. When the time comes for him to replace this rod, there will be so much stuff stuck to that Anode rod, that he'll never be able to get it back out. So this will be the last Anode rod he's ever put in that hot water heater. Clean the hole better to the rod slides in easy and hopefully you'll be able to get it out if you ever need to replace it again. I fixed a lot of typos, sorry I tend to type faster than I proof read. One more thing, there is also a tool that is used to clean pipe ends. This would also work better than just a wire brush. Search for "pipe cleaner tool" or "copper pipe cleaner". The tool has two holes in the handle for cleaning the outside of copper pipe and then it has two round wire brushes on either end for cleaning the inside of the pipe.
His old rod was eaten down to the wire, so I suspect that this one will be the same making removal possible. With the age of his tank, this will likely be the last anode rod it ever needs, especially since the old one was destroyed allowing corrosion to take place in the tank for all those years when there was no effective rod in there. Depending on your water chemistry, many will find the rod caked with deposits making removal impossible if you repeat his method. The anode rods do come in slightly different diameters, and I think that he chose one too large for his tank. Using the rubber mallet was a good idea though for those of us who don't own, or can't rent, an impact wrench.
My water heater is 1 year old so I decided to check the anode rod. I shutoff the cold water inlet valve, opened the hot water on nearest faucet, and drained 2 gallons of water from tank drain valve. I didn't have a 1 1/16 inch socket so I used a 27 mm socket. It fit perfect. I tried with 2 foot breaker bar with no luck (tank started to move). I Tried hitting the breaker bar with mallet but no luck (tank started to move again). I put on my cordless 1/2 inch impact gun and it loosened it quickly and easily. Water started coming out so I quickly tightened it by hand until it stopped leaking. Drained another gallon of water from tank and loosened anode bar again. This time there were no leaks and anode rod was fine. Recommend draining 3 gallons from tank before loosening anode so water doesn't leak from anode hole. There wasn't teflon tape or dope on the anode threads, so I didn't use teflon tape or dope on threads when I reinstalled it, and I didn't have any leaks. When installing, start threads by hand and tighten with ratchet. Do not use impact gun to tighten. There's a good chance you'll strip the threads. Hope this helps someone.
@@kimariokiji This was my first time doing this. I didn't apply dope or tape when I reinstalled it, but if I have trouble getting it off next time, then I will put either tape or dope before reinstalling. I always put on pipe dope and tape on all my plumbing. It's like insurance to make sure it doesn't leak. I just didn't do it for this because it easy to access and easy to see if it leaks. I put tape on first and then put dope on top of tape.
I stopped using teflon tape on critical pipe joints ever since I used pipe dope with PTFE (like Rectorseal). {Critical joints are the ones I have only one shot at it; if it leaks then I have disassemble the whole thing to start over.) Anode rod is not a critical joint, as you just re do if it leaks. The reason is that pipe dope with PTFE can heal itself; if it leaks you can wait a day or so, sometimes when the dope solidifies, the leak stops. With tape, there is no chance of a leak self healing. If you manage to tear the tape on some threads, or if you didn't put enough tape, the leak will stay there forever.
the few layers of Teflon tape you have will likely get chewn threw by the threads, use a multimeter on continuity setting to check if the head of the rod is one with the rest of the tank.
Just a couple of tips when changing out anode rods. Don’t use any tools to clean out the threads inside the hot water heater. Try using the old anode rod plug you removed when taking out the old anode rod. Simply break off the metal wire and slowly screw in the plug to clean the threads out. Screw it in as far as it will go by hand and back it out. Each time going in as far as you can. Complete until the threads are clear of all debris. At the end of the threads you may have to use a wrench or a 1 /16 socket to go fully into your heater. The other thing, when you wrap the threads of the anode rod plug, wrap the Teflon tape clockwise around the threaded rod. If you go counter clockwise it will come undone defeating the purpose of sealing the anode rod threads and may leak water out of the top of the water heater. Thank you for your information and do have a good day. I look forward to your future tutorials.
I think he was looking at it from the top rather than the end when he said wrap counterclockwise, so he was wrapping clockwise when you look at threaded end
Hector, I'm sure you mean well but your advice is terrible. Pipe threads are tapered, and the previous plug will not extend any further than it did when installed previously. Therefore, it cannot be used to clean the threads below its original location, where the debris and corrosion has accumulated and is blocking the new anode rod. Also, counterclockwise is correct when wrapping teflon tape around a right-hand threaded pipe or plug.
Good advise about leaving it alone if the water heater is over 15 years old ! Mine is 19 years old and working well ! I will replace it this summer before it dies !
thanks. Very good to know. we recently replaced a 20+ year old water heater that was here when we bought this house. I should have replaced anode rods after we moved in, but did not know. Will now be replacing the rod every two years.
I'd inspect it first to make sure it's not too worn first. I know these things are like 20-40 bucks but if it's not eaten more than halfway through you can still use it just fine. but if it is showing signs of wear increase inspection frequency from every 2 years to every year.
I just replaced my pressure relief valve and anode rod on my 22 year old Reliance 606 40 gallon Gas Water heater. I used a breaker bar and 1 1/16" socket. I had a plumber change the anode rod several years back so it wasn't seized like the original would've been. The pressure relief valve was easier to remove once I cut off the metal drain tube that was seized to it. I used a plastic drain tube as a replacement on the new T&P/Pressure Relief Valve. About $70 for everything.
Excellent video, best I’ve seen, esp. the info on what kind of metal the rod should be depending on type of water. Another tip I heard about is to loosen then tighten about every year or two from the time it’s new that should keep it from freezing. May need to put new Teflon tape or renew pipe dope.
I watched your video on learning about you hot water heater and I asked you about the anode rod. Well you don't have to answer because this video covered it all. I thank you so much for all of your great videos. God Bless.
Very nice video. I would like to add the following. The pounding of the open end wrench by the mallet was the same action of an impact gun , so you could have used the impact on it. You proved not to mess with the anode rod unless when first installing a new tank you break open the anode nut then retighten after applying Teflon tape or pipe compound that is safe to use with drinking water. That way it will not freeze stuck together.
Very informative video. I just replaced my water heater, and I will plan to do this maintenance. I did notice some things in your video that the water heater installer probably did incorrectly. The person who connected the cold water inlet and the hot water outlet on the top soldered the connections after they were screwed into the tank and melted the plastic sleeves. The connectors should have been soldered first and then screwed in and soldered higher up. Also, I am not an expert, but it looks like the screw-in connectors are copper instead of dielectric connectors, which are necessary when joining two different metals. I also wouldn't recommend the saddle valve that I noticed that is connected to your icemaker or humidifier. I'm not trying to be critical, but these are just things that I noticed.
My water tank is 30 years old. I never even thought about the possible irreparable damage that could happen by trying to replace the anode. This is a special circumstance also; I have removed all the sediment with a flush agitator tool, AND this tank is only being used as a hot water holding tank, not to heat the water. So, I dont think it needs a new anode that much and this is not for potable water but for heating. Thank you for the suggestion which I will do. I will not mess with the anode at all. I expect the thing will fail anyway cause its so old. Maybe it will survive.
From what I remember in plumbing school. The tank is coated from the inside to protect from corrosion. The Anode rod is there as a backup. Such as in defects in the coating process. Thats why you may never need to change out the Anode.
This water heater is not installed correctly. Copper to steel is bad. Two different metals require a dielectric union or brass nipple and brass union. That could be why he needs to change the anode.
The booklet that came with my water heater says otherwise, whenever you do your routine tank drain, you should check it. Iam sure people has had there water heater for 20 years and never check it......
You can usually order an anode rod kit with the 1 1/16" socket for the anode rod. Using an adjustable wrench is not only a knuckle buster, but it's a great way to strip the bolt head on the anode rod.
Pretty nice video, thank you!. I believe you should flush again the water heater after the installation to allow the loose sediments to get out of the tank. I used an impact wrench on mine to remove it, at least I did the first time. Water heater lasted 20 years. Also note that some anode rods are dielectric, you should refer to your manual. If you have a water softener, be prepared to change it every 1.5-2 years vs 3-5 years. Also flushing the water heater at least once a year helps to keep it top shape. Enjoy!
Your experience with this replacement, the stuck anode fitting & the crud build up, is exactly why I call someone else to fix plumbing problems. Nice work.
I would suggest after changing the anode rod, to fully flush out all the gunk at the bottom of the tank. In this case after cleaning out the anode rod threads, a lot of deposits would have sunk onto the bottom and would contaminate the tank.
Great videos i have learned quite a few things from you. Great explanations and easy step by step instructions with an explanation of what tools you need. Thank you for teaching us.
Tip on cleaning out the build-up around the inside of the hole in the top of the tank Try a wire scraper of the type used to clean auto battery cable terminals.
As much as I liked this vid is as upset I am that I just found out from you there are flexible anodes out there. I just ordered the OEM 36" rod when I have 18" of clearance and figured I'm just going to have to tilt the tank 😆. Now I know for next time. Thanks!
I've worked in construction and learned some tricks even in other trades I haven't been employed by such . I've seen them cut off handles from fitting brushes and insert them into drills and use them that way . That's what I'd try
Hi, good contents. Two things I wanted to put in. The impact drill should help. The cleaning of the threads why not use a tap to clean the threads? Hopefully this will help with your work.
I love all of your videos; your explanations are very informative. I tried to follow the steps to replace the anode rod on my hot water tank, but I ran into a problem where the bolt head sheared off. The head sheared off from almost halfway into the thread of the tank. Do you have any suggestions on how to remove the anode rod?
Sorry to hear that! That's a hairy situation you got there... I'm not sure this would work but you could try putting some vise-grip locking pliers on the sheared off bolt head and then tighten it down real hard so it bites into it. You could then put a pipe over the end of the pliers to use as a breaker bar and hopefully get that thing out.
I replaced my adode a few years ago and it was a chore. I had a buddy who weighed over 200 pounds holding onto the tank and used a 24" breaker bar (1-1/8" socket) with a 4 foot cheater. It took some work but I did break it free. The old rod was about 70% gone so I replaced it with a solid rod that I cut down to size. I did d move the tank and my buddy enough that I had to move it back into place. The rubber mallet makes sense so I'll try that next time..
Absolutely love your videos but I got to tell you seeing you use a 10 inch crescent wrench on this one made me think come on dude! If a 100 do it yourselfers followed that advice I guarantee not a single one would be successful using that wrench! For real stubborn ones use an impact wrench with the 1 1/16 inch socket. Just tweak it to get it started like an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn. You’ll see it starting to move then you can switch to a real breaker bar. Keep up the awesome videos! Love them
I used my Ryobi 200 ft-lbs battery torque wrench: it wouldn't budge on 1-2, only on 3 (max) setting it gradually - almost a minute of incremental turns - loosened the threaded end. No problem. If I were to use a breaker bar I'd be moving the whole tank all over my basement.
Dope and or tape is fine. There is no way after reinstalling there will not be electrical contact. I tested this before it bogus. I mean really think about it
You keep flipping the adjustable wrench the wrong way. It can slip and round off the corners of the nut. Think of it as a pipe wrench that grabs properly only one way. And why not just use a 1/2 inch drive socket with breaker bar? Nothing worse than causing damage because you're using the wrong tools for the job.
@@mannys9130 The stronger jaw is the fixed jaw. It can take more pressure without deflection than the dynamic jaw. This places more of the force on the inner section of the dynamic jaw reducing the amount of force applied to the weaker jaw. Per Snap-on tools. Plus, I've been a mechanic for over 50 years. I think I know a thing or two, based on experience.
I managed to completely round off the 1 1/16 hex head of my anode rod, because it was buried under nearly 3" of expanded foam insulation. Now I am considering drilling it out, being careful not to damage the female threads. My question is, if the remaining rod drops into the tank, can I just leave it there or should I fish it out? 6 year old nice Rheem electric model. Excellent Oregon water!
Oh boy, sorry to hear about the extra troubles with that. Is this an electric water heater or gas? If it's gas it should be totally fine to just let it drop down but if it's electric then there is a very slight chance that the used up anode rod can get stuck on one of the elements as it sinks down which may cause it to burn out faster. (it would still work fine for a while even if this unlikely scenario happened)
Nice job and one that usually don't get done.. I would suggest that people drain their tank after doing any work, also drain the tank to remove lime etc. a few times a year, it will extend the life of the hot water heater and it will be more efficient..
I live in area with hard water, number of old valves have had to be replaced over the years. Watched a number of videos on replacing rods, saw the deteriorated rods they removed. Figured my hard water and valve experience, 10 year old hot water heater, it's time. 2 men with breaker bar and pipe extender and pretty decent might got it out. I was really surprised at what good shape the rod was in, some deterioration but not much. So I thought with my hard water and experience with valves this was a good idea. I still replaced it because I had the new rod, but if I had to do it over again I would not bother. I asked my plumber about it and he said you can have hard water but deterioration depends on the particular kind of minerals in your hard water.
You have the camera man around as a second person there ;) ..LOL..but the rubber mallet always works. Also with a powered one you don't have to worry about the anode rod not getting in there.
Another great video, question. I have a 14 year AO Smith GCV 50 100, the only thing that I had to change twice in the 14 years was the thermocouple kit. I have never changed the Anode rod if I do this now will it make it worse?
What I noticed on mine after having to dig out the foam that covered it, the nut portion was all rusted due to condensation buildup. When i replaced it with new aluminum rod, now that it's exposed to air it's prone to sweating and the nut portion will likely rust due to condensation long term. I need to have a good solution to a closed cell insulation to plug off the top
Good video. Probably should have gone ahead and flushed all of the sediment out of the bottom of the tank while you were at it. If it ate up the anode rod then just imagine how much sediment is sitting in the bottom of the tank that will eventually rust it out and then you will have to replace the unit anyway.
I could not help but notice at about 3:40 where you are draining your tank that your GAS water heater is not on any supports to lift it up above 12". In some places it is code to raise gas water heaters at least 12 inches above grade to avoid a potential explosion if the pilot light goes out and the gas continues to run. Maybe newer water heaters don't have that problem.
I believe you don’t understand how pilot lights work. If the pilot light goes out that cuts off the gas supplying the pilot light. Gas will not continue to flow. The reason to raise a tank is so that flammable gases like gasoline fumes (heavier than air) don’t come in contact with the pilot light and ignite. The pilot light lighting sequence is such that you have to override the gas valve (holding down the button) until the thermocouple heats up enough indicating that the pilot flame is on and then the valve remains open. If flame goes out it cools and shuts off gas
Just a warning to all . Anode rods don’t always come out . I broke mine free but could tell if I kept going the threads where going to break even after I broke it free was very very hard turning so I stopped and cut my losses . I knew where it was leading to ha ha
you should spray the fitting over a few days with a corrosion dissolving product to creep around the threads, which definitely helps to break them free.
@@DH-rt2wl yeah you gotta be real careful here. You could try getting a facecloth soaked in vinnigar and leave it there for an hour or so to weaken it for easier removal but honestly a wire brush is easier, faster, and safer. they have small ones that are super cheap to buy at most hardware stores that'll do just fine
When you screw in the anode rod, the edges of the threads bite through the teflon tape and make contact with the water heater. As far as I know that is enough contact. At least that is what I was taught.
If you have leaks after replacement get some plumbers putty and put that on the threads for the tank. The combination of the plumbers putty and teflon tape usually stops the leaks.
Steve W- how old is your water heater? I am planning to change mine out (on a 23 year old water heater) also using an electric impact gun, but also concerned about potential for thread damage and/or actually 'stripping' the tank threads out with the force of the impact gun-the dilemma is real, if the threads get roached, your looking at a new water heater at that point...
@@theguy6199 15 year tank on my end and anode was really tight! I believe our super hard water didn’t help.I messed up my threads when installing the new rod and bought a monster tap to clean them up. Still had to use a sealant. That long rod (you may use a flex version) makes it hard to catch threads, so special caution advised. Don’t think I’d be concerned about stripping out threads on your tank. Maybe soak overnight with WD-40 and cover with plastic wrap so it doesn’t evaporate.
would ratchet torque multiplier wrench work as well as adjustable and did steel cable or core of origonal rod disolve by electrolysis action and did buildup on tank inside come from manufacturing or electrolisis build up inside tank?
Why would anyone recommend a torque wrench for removing anything? You sound like you don’t know what it is like it helps to remove bolts or something. Answer is no never used a torque wrench for anything except torquing bolts.
Will washing machine hoses that I use for flushing a tankless water heater work to drain water heater? (The other end attaches to a submersible pump.) Thanks!
Lol getting ready to check mine after five years. It was brand new back in 2019. Love those telescopic… numb Chuck looking. ❤I bought a spare one back in 2019… regular length cause I have room to put one in…love those compact-ones .
I have a Rheem water heater and I gave up trying to take the rod out. Even with an impact wrench it would not budge. I don’t know what torque is used on these things, but it seems to me that it would not loosen up with a rubber mallet either.
Just wanted to say THANKS for this video. I've never replaced an anode before and was intimidated by the prospect of simultaneously not successfully removing it but destroying the threads so that I couldn't simply reconnect it. I probably watched 2 dozen videos - they all said the same thing, and yeah, it's simple ... but what if I destroy that rod without getting it out? Your advice about the mallet was the advice I needed. Sure enough, mine would not budge, and more leverage simply meant it was easier to move the whole tank. But short firm taps with the rubber mallet ... that turned my pipe wrench into an impact driver, and the rod was popped out of its seat without the tank moving an inch. I'd been quoted $475 to do the job, and your demo with the mallet gave me the confidence to do it myself.
You're welcome! Glad to hear that the video was helpful and you were able to get it out. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
I changed mine today, my tank is 11 years old I changed the anonode today it came out sportive ok, I had to put in the segmented one. I then drained the tank. I'm 83 . Thanks for the video. Jim80
.
Hey, brother, just wanted to let you know that this video is still out there helping people. Got a couple of laughs out of your commentary as well. Thanks for doing this!
You actually went through what to do with unexpected problems. Most videos make it look so simple and effortless.
YOU MY FRIEND ARE MY GO-TO GURU !! YOU HELPED THIS OLE LADY FIX MY AC SEVERAL TIMES AND MORE, YOU SHOULD TEACH SOME UTUBERS HOW TO MAKE VIDEOS WITHOUT ALL THE BLAH BLAH BLAH💪😇
Thank you for this video. I watched a bunch of other videos first that tell you to use a cheater bar and one even said to have a friend hold the water heater while you wrench it. There's no good spot to hold a water heater. I tried on my own but the water heater rotated on me and I didn't even use that much force. I called plumbers and got estimates around $200 to have them do it. Then I happen to stumble upon this video and the mallet method worked for me. I was able to change the anode rod. You saved me $200!
Awesome! Glad i could help :)
Just replaced mine at 4 years old for first time. Had a lot of life left in it. I would say that if they wear evenly it would have gone 12 years. But not sure they wear evenly or progressively faster once wear starts.
Mine came out extremely easily. 12” socket with almost no effort at all. Very relieved.
I’m replacing it with a CORRO-PROTEC electric anode rode that is supposed to last 20 years or more. For me this will be the only and last time it do this job due to my age 👍🏻🤣
I have an 80 gal electric AO Smith, almost ten years old. I replaced the two elements and the thermostat. I couldn't get the anode rod out even with a 2 foot automotive breaker bar. I was going to try an impact gun but tried your hammer method. It worked. Thanks
Impact wrench with hex socket would be a safer option as it only apply toque in very short duration.
Do not apply teflontape all the way to the top of the thread, anode must have a good earth connection to the tank, I should know, I am an ex employee of AO Smith,otherwise i enjoyed this video, fun to watch, greetings from the other side of the world
Rutger van der Klip - great tip. I never thought of making contact with the tank, but that makes perfect sense.
@@ppainterco It is actually called cathodic protection, works like a battery, a very small current flows between the tank and the anode, a good connection to the tank is very important, otherwise it won't work....there are with external power supply and without, this is without external power supply, operation is the same
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection
I didn't use dope or teflon tape on the threads since there wasn't any from the factory and I didn't have any leaks. I'm sure it's going to be harder to remove next year when I check it again, but since I check every year, I'm not worried.
Yes, I heard that one shouldn’t use Teflon tape but use some kind of grease (?).
Excellent video. Just replaced my water heater for the third time and the price was double for this installation. Definitely will be flushing and replacing anode rod to extend its life. Hiring a plumber has become a very expensive option…
Outstanding video. You always do a great job instructing us amateurs in your viewing audience. Thank you.
Thank you! Glad you liked the video!
I can't believe you got that loose with just tapping on it. You, are the blessed man. :)
Finally got me anode rod out after a year of pussyfooting around. It wasn’t rust welded just in super tight.
Thanks for the great video! I’m impressed that you actually took off the anode rod on the video as opposed to having it pre- loosened before filming - helps to see the actual difficulty to expect for this project!
Well if the worst case scenario would have happened, this video likely would not have been posted. :) But I did try to capture the actual process without doing stuff off camera. Glad you found that useful!
@@WordofAdviceTV yeah, this is what *always* happens 2 me. videos r all nice&smooth. i get 2 do it and immediately get stuck because of the differences in installation, environment and what not. your case only proves the fact it's totally $hitty today (and only going 2 get worse). in my case the rod's top is actually inside a foam. yeah... no case/casing... foam (the spray-kind 1) is right under the plug, all around the tank... i had 2 cut through the foam. and it's also stuck 2 the rod's bolt head... will have 2 b real careful when replacing later. the bolt head is also waaaaaaay down below. about 3-something inches - need 2 buy special stuff...
@@WordofAdviceTV I can’t my anode rod is not on top all I can see is the hot water line and cold water line
Just a few comments:
To clear out the "gunk" that was restricting his anode rod from going into the tank. I would recommend getting a smaller wire brush, rather than using the screwdriver method that he did. Or, they make a wire brush bit that will go into a cordless drill. Just do a search on "cordless drill wire brush attachment". You should find them pretty easily. Get one of appropriate size to fit the Anode hole. Don't use your drill like your drilling through wood. Gently clean the open hole. Also, clean the hole good enough that the rod slides in easy.
You shouldn't have to push like he did in the video. Here's the problem with what he did. He was still having difficulty pushing the rod in and instead of pulling it out and cleaning the hole better he just pushed forward and got it in. I know what you all are thinking.. well he got it in. Yes, true he got it in. My guess is, he'll never get it out. When the time comes for him to replace this rod, there will be so much stuff stuck to that Anode rod, that he'll never be able to get it back out. So this will be the last Anode rod he's ever put in that hot water heater. Clean the hole better to the rod slides in easy and hopefully you'll be able to get it out if you ever need to replace it again.
I fixed a lot of typos, sorry I tend to type faster than I proof read. One more thing, there is also a tool that is used to clean pipe ends. This would also work better than just a wire brush. Search for "pipe cleaner tool" or "copper pipe cleaner". The tool has two holes in the handle for cleaning the outside of copper pipe and then it has two round wire brushes on either end for cleaning the inside of the pipe.
Or you can cut off the handle from a fitting brush and use that . Yeah just insert it into drill .
lucky, very lucky.
His old rod was eaten down to the wire, so I suspect that this one will be the same making removal possible. With the age of his tank, this will likely be the last anode rod it ever needs, especially since the old one was destroyed allowing corrosion to take place in the tank for all those years when there was no effective rod in there. Depending on your water chemistry, many will find the rod caked with deposits making removal impossible if you repeat his method. The anode rods do come in slightly different diameters, and I think that he chose one too large for his tank. Using the rubber mallet was a good idea though for those of us who don't own, or can't rent, an impact wrench.
My water heater is 1 year old so I decided to check the anode rod. I shutoff the cold water inlet valve, opened the hot water on nearest faucet, and drained 2 gallons of water from tank drain valve. I didn't have a 1 1/16 inch socket so I used a 27 mm socket. It fit perfect. I tried with 2 foot breaker bar with no luck (tank started to move). I Tried hitting the breaker bar with mallet but no luck (tank started to move again). I put on my cordless 1/2 inch impact gun and it loosened it quickly and easily. Water started coming out so I quickly tightened it by hand until it stopped leaking. Drained another gallon of water from tank and loosened anode bar again. This time there were no leaks and anode rod was fine. Recommend draining 3 gallons from tank before loosening anode so water doesn't leak from anode hole. There wasn't teflon tape or dope on the anode threads, so I didn't use teflon tape or dope on threads when I reinstalled it, and I didn't have any leaks. When installing, start threads by hand and tighten with ratchet. Do not use impact gun to tighten. There's a good chance you'll strip the threads. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks for the advice. Are you considering applying Teflon tape or pipe dope to help you remove the anode more easily in the future?
@@kimariokiji This was my first time doing this. I didn't apply dope or tape when I reinstalled it, but if I have trouble getting it off next time, then I will put either tape or dope before reinstalling. I always put on pipe dope and tape on all my plumbing. It's like insurance to make sure it doesn't leak. I just didn't do it for this because it easy to access and easy to see if it leaks. I put tape on first and then put dope on top of tape.
I stopped using teflon tape on critical pipe joints ever since I used pipe dope with PTFE (like Rectorseal).
{Critical joints are the ones I have only one shot at it; if it leaks then I have disassemble the whole thing to start over.)
Anode rod is not a critical joint, as you just re do if it leaks.
The reason is that pipe dope with PTFE can heal itself; if it leaks you can wait a day or so, sometimes when the dope solidifies, the leak stops.
With tape, there is no chance of a leak self healing. If you manage to tear the tape on some threads, or if you didn't put enough tape, the leak will stay there forever.
the few layers of Teflon tape you have will likely get chewn threw by the threads, use a multimeter on continuity setting to check if the head of the rod is one with the rest of the tank.
1-1/16" = 27mm..... = 1.062".... both
Appreciate showing the issues and possible solutions one might encounter when doing a repair. Nothing ever goes smoothly.
Just a couple of tips when changing out anode rods. Don’t use any tools to clean out the threads inside the hot water heater. Try using the old anode rod plug you removed when taking out the old anode rod.
Simply break off the metal wire and slowly screw in the plug to clean the threads out. Screw it in as far as it will go by hand and back it out. Each time going in as far as you can. Complete until the threads are clear of all debris. At the end of the threads you may have to use a wrench or a 1 /16 socket to go fully into your heater. The other thing, when you wrap the threads of the anode rod plug, wrap the Teflon tape clockwise around the threaded rod. If you go counter clockwise it will come undone defeating the purpose of sealing the anode rod threads and may leak water out of the top of the water heater. Thank you for your information and do have a good day. I look forward to your future tutorials.
I think he was looking at it from the top rather than the end when he said wrap counterclockwise, so he was wrapping clockwise when you look at threaded end
Hector, I'm sure you mean well but your advice is terrible. Pipe threads are tapered, and the previous plug will not extend any further than it did when installed previously. Therefore, it cannot be used to clean the threads below its original location, where the debris and corrosion has accumulated and is blocking the new anode rod. Also, counterclockwise is correct when wrapping teflon tape around a right-hand threaded pipe or plug.
Counterclockwise if you're looking at the top. Clockwise if you're looking at the bottom.
Good advise about leaving it alone if the water heater is over 15 years old ! Mine is 19 years old and working well ! I will replace it this summer before it dies !
Kudos, one of the better explained video. What I like was there was no BS. Most are all set up to perfection.
thanks. Very good to know. we recently replaced a 20+ year old water heater that was here when we bought this house. I should have replaced anode rods after we moved in, but did not know. Will now be replacing the rod every two years.
I'd inspect it first to make sure it's not too worn first. I know these things are like 20-40 bucks but if it's not eaten more than halfway through you can still use it just fine. but if it is showing signs of wear increase inspection frequency from every 2 years to every year.
I just replaced my pressure relief valve and anode rod on my 22 year old Reliance 606 40 gallon Gas Water heater. I used a breaker bar and 1 1/16" socket. I had a plumber change the anode rod several years back so it wasn't seized like the original would've been. The pressure relief valve was easier to remove once I cut off the metal drain tube that was seized to it. I used a plastic drain tube as a replacement on the new T&P/Pressure Relief Valve. About $70 for everything.
Excellent video, best I’ve seen, esp. the info on what kind of metal the rod should be depending on type of water. Another tip I heard about is to loosen then tighten about every year or two from the time it’s new that should keep it from freezing. May need to put new Teflon tape or renew pipe dope.
I watched your video on learning about you hot water heater and I asked you about the anode rod. Well you don't have to answer because this video covered it all. I thank you so much for all of your great videos. God Bless.
Sounds good, thanks for watching Robert!
Very nice video. I would like to add the following. The pounding of the open end wrench by the mallet was the same action of an impact gun , so you could have used the impact on it. You proved not to mess with the anode rod unless when first installing a new tank you break open the anode nut then retighten after applying Teflon tape or pipe compound that is safe to use with drinking water. That way it will not freeze stuck together.
Thank you for the additional pointers Dale! Much appreciated!
Very informative video. I just replaced my water heater, and I will plan to do this maintenance. I did notice some things in your video that the water heater installer probably did incorrectly. The person who connected the cold water inlet and the hot water outlet on the top soldered the connections after they were screwed into the tank and melted the plastic sleeves. The connectors should have been soldered first and then screwed in and soldered higher up. Also, I am not an expert, but it looks like the screw-in connectors are copper instead of dielectric connectors, which are necessary when joining two different metals. I also wouldn't recommend the saddle valve that I noticed that is connected to your icemaker or humidifier. I'm not trying to be critical, but these are just things that I noticed.
My water tank is 30 years old. I never even thought about the possible irreparable damage that could happen by trying to replace the anode.
This is a special circumstance also; I have removed all the sediment with a flush agitator tool, AND this tank is only being used as a hot water holding tank, not to heat the water.
So, I dont think it needs a new anode that much and this is not for potable water but for heating.
Thank you for the suggestion which I will do. I will not mess with the anode at all.
I expect the thing will fail anyway cause its so old. Maybe it will survive.
From what I remember in plumbing school. The tank is coated from the inside to protect from corrosion. The Anode rod is there as a backup. Such as in defects in the coating process. Thats why you may never need to change out the Anode.
This water heater is not installed correctly. Copper to steel is bad. Two different metals require a dielectric union or brass nipple and brass union. That could be why he needs to change the anode.
The booklet that came with my water heater says otherwise, whenever you do your routine tank drain, you should check it. Iam sure people has had there water heater for 20 years and never check it......
You can usually order an anode rod kit with the 1 1/16" socket for the anode rod. Using an adjustable wrench is not only a knuckle buster, but it's a great way to strip the bolt head on the anode rod.
Pretty nice video, thank you!.
I believe you should flush again the water heater after the installation to allow the loose sediments to get out of the tank.
I used an impact wrench on mine to remove it, at least I did the first time. Water heater lasted 20 years.
Also note that some anode rods are dielectric, you should refer to your manual.
If you have a water softener, be prepared to change it every 1.5-2 years vs 3-5 years. Also flushing the water heater at least once a year helps to keep it top shape.
Enjoy!
Your experience with this replacement, the stuck anode fitting & the crud build up, is exactly why I call someone else to fix plumbing problems. Nice work.
Thanks! That's probably a good choice :) I just wanted to make a real-life video. Not a simulated anode replacement video where nothing goes wrong.
I would suggest after changing the anode rod, to fully flush out all the gunk at the bottom of the tank. In this case after cleaning out the anode rod threads, a lot of deposits would have sunk onto the bottom and would contaminate the tank.
Thank you for the excellent video. It is the best one of all the videos for replacing anode rod!
Great videos i have learned quite a few things from you. Great explanations and easy step by step instructions with an explanation of what tools you need. Thank you for teaching us.
Tip on cleaning out the build-up around the inside of the hole in the top of the tank Try a wire scraper of the type used to clean auto battery cable terminals.
Great video..... I installed my water tank in 2007..... maybe I will leave it alone. :)
That may just be a good choice ;)
As much as I liked this vid is as upset I am that I just found out from you there are flexible anodes out there. I just ordered the OEM 36" rod when I have 18" of clearance and figured I'm just going to have to tilt the tank 😆. Now I know for next time. Thanks!
I've worked in construction and learned some tricks even in other trades I haven't been employed by such . I've seen them cut off handles from fitting brushes and insert them into drills and use them that way . That's what I'd try
Hi, good contents. Two things I wanted to put in. The impact drill should help. The cleaning of the threads why not use a tap to clean the threads? Hopefully this will help with your work.
I love all of your videos; your explanations are very informative. I tried to follow the steps to replace the anode rod on my hot water tank, but I ran into a problem where the bolt head sheared off. The head sheared off from almost halfway into the thread of the tank. Do you have any suggestions on how to remove the anode rod?
Sorry to hear that! That's a hairy situation you got there... I'm not sure this would work but you could try putting some vise-grip locking pliers on the sheared off bolt head and then tighten it down real hard so it bites into it. You could then put a pipe over the end of the pliers to use as a breaker bar and hopefully get that thing out.
A Battery Post cleaner will work perfect
Yeah maybe...although you do need to consider that anything you put on those threads...is likely to get inside the hot-water tank.
@@jeffw8057 Thats why you flush after repairs. also why many manufacturers don't recommend cooking with hot water.
@@TheJayDawgZ Yep. The 'flushing' reminder is a very good point.
@@jeffw8057 - not very unlikely with tape
I replaced my adode a few years ago and it was a chore. I had a buddy who weighed over 200 pounds holding onto the tank and used a 24" breaker bar (1-1/8" socket) with a 4 foot cheater. It took some work but I did break it free. The old rod was about 70% gone so I replaced it with a solid rod that I cut down to size. I did d move the tank and my buddy enough that I had to move it back into place.
The rubber mallet makes sense so I'll try that next time..
WOW at first looked kinda new verry clean water heater . just installed a water heater a few months ago looked just like that one on video .
Use an impact wrench and replace it with a corro-protec (impressed cathodic protection).
Absolutely love your videos but I got to tell you seeing you use a 10 inch crescent wrench on this one made me think come on dude! If a 100 do it yourselfers followed that advice I guarantee not a single one would be successful using that wrench! For real stubborn ones use an impact wrench with the 1 1/16 inch socket. Just tweak it to get it started like an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn. You’ll see it starting to move then you can switch to a real breaker bar. Keep up the awesome videos! Love them
I used an impact drill & socket to remove one after 11 years. It worked.
AND don't used a screwdriver that is a magnetic tip attachment because the tip could fall in.
I notied it oh well in the tank wont matter good bye snap on bit
that Klien isn't magnetic
Thatswhatshe said.
I used my Ryobi 200 ft-lbs battery torque wrench: it wouldn't budge on 1-2, only on 3 (max) setting it gradually - almost a minute of incremental turns - loosened the threaded end. No problem. If I were to use a breaker bar I'd be moving the whole tank all over my basement.
Pipe dope not Teflon tape on the threads. The rod nut needs to make contact with the tank for electrolysis to work.
Interesting! Care to elaborate?
Dope and or tape is fine. There is no way after reinstalling there will not be electrical contact. I tested this before it bogus. I mean really think about it
Great advice, I am glad you called it a WATER HEATER instead of hot water heater!Lol
You keep flipping the adjustable wrench the wrong way. It can slip and round off the corners of the nut. Think of it as a pipe wrench that grabs properly only one way.
And why not just use a 1/2 inch drive socket with breaker bar? Nothing worse than causing damage because you're using the wrong tools for the job.
Yeah I'd probably use a plumbing wrench or a socket
ABSOLUTELY-Well Said 👍
Adjustable wrenches are NOT directional. Please see Tubalcain's video about this myth. His channel is mrpete222.
@@mannys9130 The stronger jaw is the fixed jaw. It can take more pressure without deflection than the dynamic jaw. This places more of the force on the inner section of the dynamic jaw reducing the amount of force applied to the weaker jaw. Per Snap-on tools. Plus, I've been a mechanic for over 50 years. I think I know a thing or two, based on experience.
Dad - is that you?
I managed to completely round off the 1 1/16 hex head of my anode rod, because it was buried under nearly 3" of expanded foam insulation. Now I am considering drilling it out, being careful not to damage the female threads. My question is, if the remaining rod drops into the tank, can I just leave it there or should I fish it out? 6 year old nice Rheem electric model. Excellent Oregon water!
Oh boy, sorry to hear about the extra troubles with that. Is this an electric water heater or gas? If it's gas it should be totally fine to just let it drop down but if it's electric then there is a very slight chance that the used up anode rod can get stuck on one of the elements as it sinks down which may cause it to burn out faster. (it would still work fine for a while even if this unlikely scenario happened)
Nice job and one that usually don't get done.. I would suggest that people drain their tank after doing any work, also drain the tank to remove lime etc. a few times a year, it will extend the life of the hot water heater and it will be more efficient..
More than likely you will not get that much lime out !
I live in area with hard water, number of old valves have had to be replaced over the years. Watched a number of videos on replacing rods, saw the deteriorated rods they removed. Figured my hard water and valve experience, 10 year old hot water heater, it's time. 2 men with breaker bar and pipe extender and pretty decent might got it out. I was really surprised at what good shape the rod was in, some deterioration but not much. So I thought with my hard water and experience with valves this was a good idea. I still replaced it because I had the new rod, but if I had to do it over again I would not bother. I asked my plumber about it and he said you can have hard water but deterioration depends on the particular kind of minerals in your hard water.
Now your water heater probably would last 20 years. ;) $1200 saved during that extended life period.
Use a tapered pipe tap (NTP) to clean or chase the threads! Then flush out tank before you put it back in service.
Thanks, BTW your using the fitsall wrench backwards.
Great job explaining the process of replacing the anode rod. Thanks for sharing with us. God bless
At 12:37 just waiting for the bit to fall into the tank
ME TOO!!!
Hehe he said "deep water" hehe heh heh.
Ditto!!!
You have the camera man around as a second person there ;) ..LOL..but the rubber mallet always works.
Also with a powered one you don't have to worry about the anode rod not getting in there.
Another great video, question. I have a 14 year AO Smith GCV 50 100, the only thing that I had to change twice in the 14 years was the thermocouple kit. I have never changed the Anode rod if I do this now will it make it worse?
Why not use a battery terminal brush to clean out the threads?
It’s helps if you initially break the old anode loose by turning it clock-wise then take off anti-clockwise-wise.
So much information, thank you for the great advices
Question: if your new anode rod leaks after you install it, can you also use plumber's putty to stop the leak?
It would probably be more effective to add a few more layers of Teflon tape instead.
Great video. Thanks for your help. I just replaced my rod with no problems.
I like the whole video very informative, but what I like the most was the math trick. Thank you for sharing peace.
What I noticed on mine after having to dig out the foam that covered it, the nut portion was all rusted due to condensation buildup. When i replaced it with new aluminum rod, now that it's exposed to air it's prone to sweating and the nut portion will likely rust due to condensation long term. I need to have a good solution to a closed cell insulation to plug off the top
"I don't have the second person to hold the water heater for me". Tell the camera man put down the camera and help. LOL, I am kidding. Great video.
That’s probably a not a man wielding the camera?
Good video. Probably should have gone ahead and flushed all of the sediment out of the bottom of the tank while you were at it. If it ate up the anode rod then just imagine how much sediment is sitting in the bottom of the tank that will eventually rust it out and then you will have to replace the unit anyway.
I use the 3/4”. Thread circular plumber’s steel brush used to prep female 3/4 copper fittings. It will not damage the threads
I could not help but notice at about 3:40 where you are draining your tank that your GAS water heater is not on any supports to lift it up above 12". In some places it is code to raise gas water heaters at least 12 inches above grade to avoid a potential explosion if the pilot light goes out and the gas continues to run. Maybe newer water heaters don't have that problem.
I believe you don’t understand how pilot lights work. If the pilot light goes out that cuts off the gas supplying the pilot light. Gas will not continue to flow. The reason to raise a tank is so that flammable gases like gasoline fumes (heavier than air) don’t come in contact with the pilot light and ignite. The pilot light lighting sequence is such that you have to override the gas valve (holding down the button) until the thermocouple heats up enough indicating that the pilot flame is on and then the valve remains open. If flame goes out it cools and shuts off gas
Thank You, something new I learned today. Never knew this existed...
Excellent video….clear and concise, thanks
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Jay, please show us how to do maintenance on a tankless water heater. I have a rinnai and love it. Id love to know how to keep it ☝
I like your method using the wrench and mallet , to manually apply impact torque. Very nicely demonstrated.
Thank you! :)
you must be kidding,,,,,,,an adjustable and a mallet instead of a socket and long breaker bar,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Can i use a bore brush made of brass similar to cleaning firearms to clean out the threads?
Just a warning to all . Anode rods don’t always come out .
I broke mine free but could tell if I kept going the threads where going to break even after I broke it free was very very hard turning so I stopped and cut my losses . I knew where it was leading to ha ha
you should spray the fitting over a few days with a corrosion dissolving product to creep around the threads, which definitely helps to break them free.
Won't you contaminate your water supply by doing this?
@@DH-rt2wl yeah you gotta be real careful here. You could try getting a facecloth soaked in vinnigar and leave it there for an hour or so to weaken it for easier removal but honestly a wire brush is easier, faster, and safer. they have small ones that are super cheap to buy at most hardware stores that'll do just fine
A water heater is not like a stuck wheel nut that you can liberally spray solvents on it without the danger of contaminating the water.
@@DH-rt2wlYou should not use hot water for drinking in the first place.
My water heater is 8 1/2 years old. I have not replaced the anode rod. Should I leave it or try to replace it? It's a gas heater on city water.
Doesn't the rod have to touch the steel without the tape to work, like on a boat anode?
When you screw in the anode rod, the edges of the threads bite through the teflon tape and make contact with the water heater. As far as I know that is enough contact. At least that is what I was taught.
@@WordofAdviceTV 👍
If you have leaks after replacement get some plumbers putty and put that on the threads for the tank. The combination of the plumbers putty and teflon tape usually stops the leaks.
Impact wrench finally worked for me. 4’ cheater bar turned everything. BTW, rubber mallet is a poor man’s impact wrench 😀😀😀.
Steve W- how old is your water heater? I am planning to change mine out (on a 23 year old water heater) also using an electric impact gun, but also concerned
about potential for thread damage and/or actually 'stripping' the tank threads out with the force of the impact gun-the dilemma is
real, if the threads get roached, your looking at a new water heater at that point...
@@theguy6199 15 year tank on my end and anode was really tight! I believe our super hard water didn’t help.I messed up my threads when installing the new rod and bought a monster tap to clean them up. Still had to use a sealant. That long rod (you may use a flex version) makes it hard to catch threads, so special caution advised. Don’t think I’d be concerned about stripping out threads on your tank. Maybe soak overnight with WD-40 and cover with plastic wrap so it doesn’t evaporate.
Would impact wrench work?
Yes, that usually works nicely 👍
Love this guy's videos.
What about putting Anti-Seize on the threads??? Would that help from it being difficult to remove in the future ?
I used a 1/2 drive impact.
would ratchet torque multiplier wrench work as well as adjustable and did steel cable or core of origonal rod disolve by electrolysis action and did buildup on tank inside come from manufacturing or electrolisis build up inside tank?
What is a ratchet torque multiplier?
Your relief valve pipe should not be higher than 6 inches off floor. That usually the code everywhere, mine is 3 inches off the floor.. Good Video!!
I wish you were my neighbor!!! 😊
Thanks bro..YOU ALWAYS MAKE LEARNING EASY👍✊
Glad to hear that! Thank you for your continual watching! :)
Great video! Do you recommend use the torque wrench to remove the anode
Why would anyone recommend a torque wrench for removing anything? You sound like you don’t know what it is like it helps to remove bolts or something. Answer is no never used a torque wrench for anything except torquing bolts.
Will washing machine hoses that I use for flushing a tankless water heater work to drain water heater? (The other end attaches to a submersible pump.) Thanks!
I was just waiting for that screwdriver bit to fly off into the tank 😂
Lol getting ready to check mine after five years. It was brand new back in 2019.
Love those telescopic… numb Chuck looking.
❤I bought a spare one back in 2019… regular length cause I have room to put one in…love those compact-ones .
To help loosen the bolt try PB Blaster. Make sure you clean it up when you have it lose and before you remove it. Because it is a catalyst.
Thanks, very helpful.
Can I put some never seized lubricant on the anode thread rod?
I have a Rheem water heater and I gave up trying to take the rod out. Even with an impact wrench it would not budge. I don’t know what torque is used on these things, but it seems to me that it would not loosen up with a rubber mallet either.
Thanks for the great video! I’m impressed that you.