Best video I've seen so far to learn how to break in a Nitro engine. I've only been in the hobby for around 6 months now. Sure, as a kid I had a few el'cheapo RCs like the old Tycos, Nikkos and I think the most expensive one I ever had was an old Tamiya Grasshopper but they were nothing like what you have today. My first true RC I bought was the Traxxas Fiesta ST VXL due to being a fan of rally racing and the cars. Id been interested in buying a nitro and finally pulled the trigger today after a week of reading reviews, I chose the Traxxas Slayer 4x4 Pro Nitro along with I think a quart of 25%. I'm going to try to break it in some, if not all the way in tomorrow. I'm a bit confused with the tuning and all that but Ill figure it out. The main think is to get the engine broke in.
I just found your video , 2yrs late but very informative , I just bought slayer pro , thank you for this video, I hope you are still making videos,again thank you
Looking to purchase my first nitro vehicle I plan on getting the nitro slash 2wd great video and very good on explaining everything I’ve been around electric rcs for the past 10 years so this is a whole new experience
It's a great video thank you for putting it out there I'm not new I've done it many times before but it's nice to see step by step the proper way to the manual I look forward to seeing more
I bought one a week ago. I just read thru the book after doing what the hobby store guy said to do. He is amazing. I wish I found this video earlier tho it would have helped a lot. I still learned things. Mine broke in good it’s an amazing little thing it sounds so good!
Awesome video, ive been running electric RC's for a while and want my first nitro and with your video i feel 100% confident i can break it in properly. Thank you so much!!!
I just got a Traxxas nitro slash for Christmas and this video has been super helpful, a lot of other videos messed up the audio and I couldn’t hear them over the engine of their car. Thank you!
Just bought one today. My first nitro car ever. I really appreciate the time you put into this video. I subscribed also. I watched it twice to get the process down but I will review the manual when I get the Slayer Pro in the mail. 🤙🏼
Use the video just to see how things are set into motion. But yes read through the manual as well and you will be good. Thanks for watching and subscribing to the channel.
@@BayonasRCWorld Hey bro, I really need some help! I can’t figure out how to install the 1200mah battery. I unplugged the double AA box and now all I have is a red light on the receiver and no wheels turning or throttle opening
@@BayonasRCWorld Hey brother, the car is running pretty good it passed the 4 second pinch test but sometimes it dies when sitting idle. Can you explain that??
My wife bought me a 3.3 revo for my birthday open in a few days. Thanks for the video The guy at the store told me let two tanks run through it at idle adjust your tuning You're good to go
Wow! So sorry your comment went unnoticed for a year. I was just scrolling through the comments and noticed it. I never got a notification for your comment, so my apologies. Thank you for the comment and I truly appreciate you.
Cool deal for the "newbie's", man. I agree. I've been at it for about 20 years, but I've never owned a Slayer. I just got my first Revo 3.3. Haven't even fired it up yet. The Slayer will be my next one, so this helps a ton getting familiar with it. Same chassis as the Revo so helps with that too. Awesome vid.
Great video! Very well explained! I'm actually waiting to get my first TMaxx 2.5! I think the break in process should be the same. That Slayer looks Pretty Awesome.
I’ve ran electric RCs for years and I’ve been thinking about getting a nitro and I love the way you explain everything. You make it where an idiot like me can understand.
There are alot of newcomers to nitro and purchasing Traxxas vehicles as their first RTR vehicles. I always get asked about the breakin procedure and so I decided to just make this video.
@@williamlake1753 for after fun ensure you empty the tank of fuel, attempt to start the engine until it will nolonger start. This will ensure that the crankcase has no fuel left inside. Then remove glow plug and spray a few squirts of WD40 into the cylinder and then turn engine over with starter or pull start holding a rag over the top of cylinder head or glow plug opening to catch the oil residue. Then replace glow plug and store the vehicle.
@@riskyavb9919 glad that this video was able to help you out. That was the purpose of me doing a video like this to at least help out someone getting into one of these Traxxas nitro. Thank you for the comment and I truly appreciate you.
@@Chepo1500 all three hehehehehehe! The Slayer and Revo share the same chassis just the revo has longer A arms. The Jato is pretty fast as well. All three has their place and fun handling characteristics. Whichever you choose you will not be disappointed.
@@BayonasRCWorld haha I wish 😂😂😅they pricy but worth it I’m sure. And revo is 45mph and slayer 50mph . But the revo looks better and meaner and funner .
@@Chepo1500 for me I love the Revo 3.3 just because I had a few of them and the fun factor is awesome. Why? Because of the all terrain mayhem and height of the truck stance. The Slayer is great for short course tracks or flat with mild rough terrain and same goes for Jato. But the Revo is just an all out basher IMO.
Thank you for showing this. I am thinking about purchasing one of these and it's good to know how much work is involved in a nitro engine. It looks like fun to me!!🤘
I just came across your video ive been in the hobby almost 3 years i have 12 rc my first was a tmaxx pro.15 i still have issues with the aspect of tuning being in florida my nitros can run fine in the morning and by 2pm with all the humidity they dont run the same as they did earlier,sometimes it gets a bit frustrating ..watching your video and exactly how you did it cleared up quite a few things i have 6 nitros including a 4tec 3.3 ,a revo 3.3 ,a slayer 3.3 an old nitro sport with a pro.15 the person bought it years ago never used it paid 50 bucks for that at his yard sale,also have a tmaxx 3.3 classic and just picked up a duratrax warhead mint cond. The guy bought it used it a few times blew the engine ,another 50.00 dollar steal thanks your video has helped, time to put the electrics on the shelf, and i hit the subscribe button
Thanks for watching the video and I am glad it helped you for what you needed. I have own and operated and refurbished Traxxas Nitro vehicles for over 14 years now and have delt with all the frustrations. So I know first hand what we go through! So once again thank you and continue to have fun bashing.
very informative!!! you explained it pretty much how I read it in the manual. nice to see it in done in real time. i have no experience and went head on to the traxxas slayer pro 4x4 nitro, wish me luck lol i got this
There are 'experienced' people on here that suck at nitros also. They need to watch this video. 45 years of nitro experience here and I cringe at people that dont know what too 'lean' sounds like, looks like...etc. Dont forget to change your glow plug after tank 5. Tiny fragments of the engine attach to the coil during break-in.
Hello, Great video man, plain and simple and clear and concise. Tons of great information, especially for the new guys interested in getting a nitro RC vehicle but a great video to watch for any level of RC enthusiast. You earned my sub. I just got the same truck except I got the red one. I haven't even started it yet. Because I'm quadriplegic I can't do anything except drive it, I'm waiting until my cousin can help me with it... Hopefully soon! I've had other nitro Traxxas vehicles in the past, I had a Traxxas Revo 3.3, a T-Maxx 3.3 and also a Jato 3.3. I almost got another T-Maxx but I like the inboard shocks on the Slayer and the Revo. I considered getting another Revo 3.3 but I don't like that it has a rechargeable pack. Because I'm quadriplegic I don't get to drive them much so that battery pack would go bad, I like the AA holder better. Also, I don't like how the Revo 3.3 has more electronics like the opti-drive and third servo to shift into reverse. Just more stuff to go bad or have to maintain as far as I'm concerned. Also, the Slayer being lighter, smaller wheels/tires and lower center of gravity it'll be quicker, faster and handle better, that's why I went with the Slayer 3.3. Also, it looks really cool! I've been an RC enthusiast for 36 years and counting! My very first "hobby grade" RC was the Tamiya Midnight Pumpkin way back in 1987 when I was 12. Before that it was always disposable junk from Toys-R-Us or Radio Shack. LOL! Here's the collection I have now. Thanks for the great video, I'll be back. Have a great day! Traxxas slayer 3.3 Traxxas Slash (HCG Baja body) Traxxas Slash drag car (custom built) Team Associated DR-10 drag car Team Associated B5M/SC5M drag truck Team Associated T4 stadium truck Team Associated TC4 touring car Team Losi 22S drag car Tamiya Land Cruiser crawler Prather Fun Cruiser 46" gas boat Proboat Thundercat 31" nitro boat
Excellent stuff brother! I have been in this hobby for 41 years now and still going strong. My first RC car was by Nikko Turbo Panther from the JC Penny catalog LOL. Hey but that was back in the good old days right. Then I got a Grasshopper, then the Tamiya Boomerang then years later I got the Tamiya Clodbuster, Midnight pumpkin, Black foot, Lunch box, Monster Beetle. During this time as well I began building stick and tissue rubber band powered free flight models then control line and moved up into building and flying RC gliders and slope gliders. 1988 I got into RC helicopters, and further into nitro RC Airplanes. Since I have been always jumping back and forth between ground and flying RC models throughout the years. I got into trail vehicles, rock crawlers, drifters, Semi trucks, motorcycles and then 1/5th scale gas buggies and stadium vehicles. I just love this hobby with a passion! I tried race drones and FPV as well but I prefer flying line of sight to be honest. Anyhow glad that you found my channel and that a video was enjoyable and worth watching. I don't have fancy transitions, audio, graphics or speak proper English like top UA-cam channels have, my main concern here on my channel is to share my experiences, show how I do things, and motivate others to give RC a try and or if you are currently into RC to don't give up and learn as much as you can that way you can continue enjoying all the RC models and endeavors that you can. Be safe in all that you do brother and thank you.
@@BayonasRCWorld That's awesome man, lots of good stuff for sure! You're not going to believe this but I had one of those Nikko turbo panther buggies. I also remember one called a Red Arrow from radio shack and I specifically remember it being the first one that I ever had with the 540 motor. LOL! I had a couple airplanes over the years but for very short times and I only flew a couple times. I also had a 1/5th scale Rovan buggy several years back and I'm actually considering getting another one. Having been paralyzed for almost 23 years now I have a lot of problems that keep me from getting up as much as I'd like to. If I can spend enough time outside enjoying the hobby this summer I might have to order one. I can tell you love the hobby with a passion, so do I! I know what you mean about the transitions, graphics etc. You don't need any of that, just keep doing what you're doing. I'm glad I found your channel as well, my kind of videos. Thanks again! Take care and have a good one, buddy! 🙂
on my first tank of my break in procedure, my nitro rustler would always roll away even with the throttle at neutral. i thought it was the idle needle being too lean so i richened it, but did nothing. i suspect i may need to richen the low speed needle instead. your video helped me realize this, and i hope it goes well thank you!
I had and old t maxx that I upgraded to the newer one with the 3.3 and different wheelbase, haven't touched it though since 2010. Ordered a slayer pro now, will be here in June. I just ordered their top fuel 20 percent. I'm old now and just want to bash and play out in the yard while I sit outside.
My love is and always will be building and flying! However I have been into pretty much everything RC Related for the past 40 years. I am ALWAYS doing something RC related and perfecting everything that I touch in the hobby. If it was not for my mentor and friend Dale Willoughby owner of Willoughby Hobbies here on Guam back in the 80's to take me in and transform a young troubled youth into the person I am today regarding the hobby. This is why I have a strong passion for the RC hobby and always want to lend a helping hand to those wanting to learn or get into this amazing hobby.
Thank you for watching and subscribing to the channel. If you have any further questions on any of the Traxxas nitro vehicles just ask. I will be happy to help.
I understand what you are saying for I have been doing this since the 80's. This video was not intended for advance individuals to nitro Traxxas vehicles. The reason why I have done this video in the way I did was to give the newbies a visual representation of the outlined Traxxas breakin procedures nothing more and nothing less. On top of that keeping true to the instructions outlined by Traxxas I explained things to make it easier to understand. You be surprised how many questions I get in regards to the breakin procedures. So If you have been running Traxxas nitro vehicles for a few years under your belt then you know more than the newbies being their first nitro or even their first RC in general.
Good video buddy. I just was given to me a Revo 3.3 that needed a new Motor. I went full out and replaced everything so I have a brand new truck Minus the wheels they are still original. One question have you had the cylinder / piston ever get stuck. I watched a video of a brand new motor and it got stuck. His vid compared to yours his was rich on the low idle screw Yours seems very lean on the low speed needle. I’m learning before I go out and run my new build. 👊😎 Wish me luck man I need it. 👍👍
You can get what they call a hydro lock! That is when the engine is way too rich and fuel floods the crankcase where the piston cannot complete its travel; either the engine must stop rotating or a mechanical failure must occur. To clear this excess fuel in the crankcase you must pinch off the fuel to the carb, remove the glow plug and place a rag over the cylinder to catch the excess fuel, attempt to start the engine with either starter or pull start until all fuel has emptied from the crankcase. Replace the glow plug and release the fuel line to allow fuel to flow to the carb and try to start the engine again. You may need to adjust the low end by turning 1/16 or 1/8 turn clockwise to get a leaner fuel mixture to prevent another hydro lock. My engine in this video is still running rich and as you can see the trail of smoke during the running of the vehicle also is a good indicator of a rich setting (However not in all cases depending on outside temps, especially in colder weather) I hope this helps.
im not very fond of the traxxas method, its way too hard on the rod and wrist pin. i broke in an engine the traxxas way my very first nitro car, my tmaxx, engine lasted about a month running it a couple times a week. it lost most of its compression and wouldnt tune anymore. I bought a revo 3.3 and used the heat cycling method that the nitro buggy guys vouch for, takes about a tank and a half, maybe 2 tanks, the car has so much more power afterwards. that was almost a year ago and it still has high compression. Thats just my 2 cents though, i really like your video, its very informative, you touch a lot of very important points and answer questions i had my first time. And good call on the slipper clutch, mine was VERY loose out of box
I have had a few newcomers to the nitro hobby had similar issues. And what I found out was the guys that I physically was able to see what was going on with their model all claimed that they followed the Traxxas breakin instructions to the T. Well I had them run through with me what they did and 90% of them just did not understand the needles low and high end. So with good intentions they followed the breakin procedures 1 through 6 with the trigger pulls, engine cool down etc.. all while turning in the high end needle way too far in making it too lean because they did not understand the engine sound, smell, lean mixture indicators etc.. Most of their reasoning for touching the needles too soon was because they could not get the engine to idle and stay running. This is where just keeping it simple comes in and to be honest I have been a nitro guy since the early 80's and I know all about the heat cycle and tuning techniques of the past since that's how we broke in our engines. In all honesty if you are a complete newbie to Nitro then I always suggest getting the assistance from an experienced hobbyist for the first time. I have been running Traxxas nitro vehicles since they came out on the market and had my fair share of issues with the TRX 2.5 engines. I have always been a O.S. or Novarossi nitro engine kind of guy with all my nitro on road or off road. But anyhow I truly appreciate the comment and I truly appreciate you for watching the video.
@@BayonasRCWorld yeah, i actually run a small engine shop irl, i can at least find my way around a carb. i hear you on the 2.5, my first and only one had a warped head out of the box
Based on the Traxxas break in procedures Tank 1 through Tank 5 could be around an hour or up to two hours. As long as you just follow the procedures you will be just fine.
@@BayonasRCWorld tks for the reply , thought will takes a long time as your video completed break in only late in the afternoon . Going for Tmaxx and your video will be my reference later tks
@Collin Phang Oh no not as long as my video LOL! I just wanted to be as informative as I could for the new comer to the world of Traxxas nitro vehicles. But the actual break in procedures takes just 1 to 2 hours. Not long at all just lots of people tend to ignore this important step because it is boring and they all just want to start bashing and jumping etc.
Empty tank at full throttle. 1st before tank nears empty the engine will show signs of bogging and or wanting to quit. Once tank rids of all nitro fuel the engine will burn what is left inside crankcase. At this time the engine will speed up slightly before abruptly quitting.
I just got a slayer, it is not my first nitro RC, I currently has 3 vehicles (1/8 buggies and 1/8 truggy) running 2 OS and one Picco engines, however I always send my new engine to my LHS which broke in for me by the Adam Drake’s method, I would just run them rich for one or two tanks before I made my adjustment, I am puzzled by the amount of effort needed to be made to break in the TRX 3.3, may I ask is there any short cut method to go for it, I accept suboptimal result, thank you very much
Well overall the idea is basically bringing the engine up to temperature and then allowing it to cool so that all internal parts properly work in slowly. The problem I see with most of the newcomers into nitro is at the first run they are already trying to squeeze out all the power by leaning the mixture too much. This is where they end up overheating the engine! So the Traxxas breakin procedure is a careful way to get newcomers to manage engine breakin while getting use to their first nitro vehicle.
They have many breakin methods out there so it just comes down to personal preference to be honest. All I did in this video was to show the Traxxas breakin procedure in action for those visual learners.
No just for the very 1st time when purchased new. After you break in the engine you just fuel up and play. From time to time you might have to make very small tuning adjustments to the high end needle depending on current temperatures or performance
Normally engine temp in the 250-270 range however those temperatures could fluctuate depending on various factors like outside temps, type of fuel you are using,glow plug, and condition of the engine itself. Get a good temperature gun give you a ball park figure what temps you are running at. Also don't just use engine temps as your be all set all fix. It comes down to how the engine responds, runs, idles etc...
Hey I got mine not to long ago and I don’t know anything and do you know where to get that fuel online or what the best fuel is for the car edit: I’ve read some comments and seen some people talking about oil so I just need to know what to put in it
Just stick to 25% nitro fuel purchased from your local hobby shop or if in US you can order through Amainhobbies.com Towerhobbies.com or Horizon Hobbies to name a few online providers.
You can use these breakin procedures to any nitro RC car or truck engines. Overall it is mainly to slowly bring up the engine to proper temperature for an certain amount of time and then allow the engine to cool down somewhat. Overall the Traxxas procedures basically gives the newcomers to nitro the opportunity to learn to breakin the engine slowly while also getting some play time.
You got this brother! Just follow the manual to the T and you will be just fine. My video should also help out for the actual application of the instructions.
I have one of these trucks, i have had it for many years. Do you know anyway of making the exhaust quieter? I have tried stuffing the exhaust with stainless steal wool but it doesn't make much of a difference
I would not restrict the exhaust flow otherwise you could cause engine issues. As far as making a Nitro quieter ummmmm using the stock muffler is actually pretty quiet compared to after market mufflers that are a tad bit louder. Nitro is associated with that engine sound and to be honest I never looked into trying to make it quieter. If I wanted quiet I would breakout my electric models. Some neighbors don't like the sound so I just go find a large field away from houses to run my Nitro vehicles. Other than that the stock muffler is the quietest IMO.
That's how we broke in the engines back in the olden days. Some still do it today however I would not advise it to new comers to nitro vehicles. It is just best to keep it simple for the breakin process while bringing engine up to proper temp and then cool down. The reason Traxxas does the breakin procedures in this fashion to me is merely to get the newcomers into nitro and slowly integrate them with the procedures while learning and still playing with the vehicle somewhat. Gives them a hands on experience all around in my book.
Excellent information. So sad my engine last less than a month bad engine, wherever I'm getting a new one by tomorrow. I have a gallon of VP racing fuel 20% nitro 9% oil what do you think about that? Should I increase oil percentage? I have some castor oil, I don't wanna damage my new engine.
20% nitro fuel is great as far as oil content anywhere from 8 to 12% oil is optimal more oil is not always better. I normally 30% nitro fuel with 10% synthetic oil in my TRX engine with awesome power and engine life when properly tuned.
Question?? I got a slayer.. went step by step to your video and I can’t get it to idle. Any ideas? I’ve reset it multiple times and I can’t get it to idle. Help!!!
Reason why I made the video. To help others by showing as much as possible while explaining the procedures as if I were right there by your side. I have been playing, fixing, refurbishing, tuning Traxxas nitro vehicles for the past 18 years and have learned alot during these times. I know the frustration one could encounter and have seen lots of people struggle and give up because things weren't going right. So glad I am able to help! If you have any questions don't hesitate to message me here or o Facebook messenger. I also have a Facebook group under the same name Bayona's RC World. facebook.com/groups/1102320606822541/?ref=share
All needles are at factory setting? If so you can adjust your throttle stop screw a little at a time until engine stays running and idle is settling without quiting.
Yes same engine TRX3.3 so all breakin procedure is the same. Anyhow the Revo 3.3 and Slayer 3.3 share the same chassis and layout. Just arms are different for the most part.
@@BayonasRCWorld how often do u change and clean anf oil air filter also how long do the glow plugs last ?? I won't be able to break it in till spring or summer here in northern new york
@@bradwoods1087 change or clean the filter Traxxas recommends to clean the air filter after every hour of runtime with the engine (approx. one 500cc bottle of fuel). If the vehicle is operating in very dusty conditions, cleaning the air filter after every 30 minutes of runtime will be necessary to promote long engine life. With that said real world applications I could go the whole weekend playing without cleaning my filter with no ill effects. Now provided that your filter is not caked on mud or grime. As far as glow plug if you have the engine properly tuned the plug will last a long time. Plug fails if you have a overly rich engine setting or too lean settings. Too rich and you flood the plug with fuel, too lean and you burnout the heating element.
@@bradwoods1087 unfortunately I did not do one. However what I do is ensure tank is emptied of all fuel, burn off remaining fuel in the crankcase, then remove the glow plug and shoot some WD40 into the engine through the glow plug hole, place a rag to cover the hole and attempt to start the engine or turn over the engine. All the WD40 will then lubricate the engine bearings and all excess will be expelled through the glow plug hole being captured by the rag. Replace glow plug and if your vehicle has 4 AA batteries then remove the batteries. Here your vehicle engine is ready for your next bashing session. Clean off any dirt and debris throughout your vehicle. Also for those screw heads that are turning rusty color you can spray some WD40 onto a brush and lightly brush over all screws and then wipe off excess.
hey you did not say the traxxas .15 nitro stampede iv broken in 2 nitro Rc vehicles the nitro .15 and my hsp nitro backwash buggy I'm hoping to order a traxxas nitro slash when my mom and dad get back from Florida they are flying back home today and after my bills are paid i can order it hopefully
If this is a brand new engine I would advise to just follow the breakin procedure outlined by Traxxas. That means all needle settings for the first start.
There are a few reasons for this. However the first thing you should check is the idle screw. Your idle is to high therefore you must adjust your idle screw on the bottom right of the carb counter clockwise until you have a steady idle without causing the engine to quit yet stops the vehicle from advancing forward. Give that a try first and let me know the status. Is this a new vehicle?
I use to do temp checks when I first started nitro back in the 80's. Last time I ever used a temp gun for readings was early 90's. Since then I have always relied of performance, sound, visual indicators like exhaust smoke etc. All my engine run excellent without any degrade in performance and I have not blown a engine from being too lean etc.
@@BayonasRCWorld actually so do I rely on sound and performance but after I like the sound and performance I want to make sure that it's cooling down and stays at a certain temperature fine tune
@@kaycee9337 Do what you think will benefit you and your goals. If you want to use a temp gun and verity your temps when you run your engines then by all means if that makes you comfortable or run your engine to its optimal performance then can't be wrong. What I am showing in my video is based on Traxxas breakin procedures and thats all. For those who do not understand the manual or want to see the manual instructions in motion. If you want more advance information there are many videos on UA-cam that probably can give you further guidance into what you are after. Let's not get carried away going beyond the intent of this video. I shared some tips which is all I added to the video for others to just understand why.
LOL yeah it was a hot, humid day, then rain on amd off. This made the filming of this video to take all day until the evening. Should have been a few hours instead. However I digress
No by pinching off the fuel to the carb you are determining by the reaction of the engine during that current condition. Therefore, by pinching off the fuel line restricting fuel into the carb you will have either a lean condition or a rich condition. A lean condition will be noted by an abrupt engine out, and the reason for this is because if your needles are turned to far in restricting fuel into the carb your engine will not have much fuel to burn off causing a quick engine off situation. A rich setting will be by the prolong engine running after restricting fuel to the carb before it dies. The reason this happens and a indicator of a rich situation is because if your needles are too far out or opened you are adding more fuel into the carb that the engine now will burn off and since the engine is full of fuel it will definitely take longer. Again this is where counting 3 to 4 seconds after you pinch the line and engine idle increases and runs for between 3 to 4 seconds puts you at the ball park range for your low end setting with just the right amount of fuel in the engine. This is the soul purpose of the pinch test. Has nothing to do with killing the engine. I hope this helps explaining the pinch method. Let me know if anything.
@ all still factory. I just got it for Christmas. I was following all the steps on your video. I was not sure if the battery pack was fully charged. But since it came with cigarette lighter charger I charge it on the way to work. I’ll see if it turns on today.
You have to prime the carburetor. Put your finger over the exhaust hole and give the starter a few pushes until you see the fuel move through the fuel line to the carb. Do not over prime the carb! Once primed remove your finger and give the starter a few pushes until the engine turns over.
@@MasterScreenPrints ensure you fully charge the starter pack. Also you can use a 2S lipo in the starter wand however you will need to solder a adaptor plug for your 2s lipo. You will get a starter wand that will last basically all day of play.
That is the 15 mins in-between thanks. Remember that this is all off the Traxxas breakin procedures and nothing more. If you want to add more on top of what Traxxas has already outlined then by all means. However with that said if you know more advance tricks and tips, TDC and all then you don't need to be watching this kind of content because you are not a beginner or new to Nitro. Like I mentioned in the video that this is all based off the Traxxas breakin procedures outlined in their instruction manual and breakin procedure cheat card nothing more and nothing less keeping it simple. The video is basically taking those given instructions and putting it into action for the new comers to actually see and reference as per written instructions
adjust the carb stop screw or idle screw. Not the high end or low end needles! it is a screw hidden on the side of the carb body. Turn it out 1/16th turn at a time until the vehicle stops advancing forward.
Traxxas fails to say to make sure the Piston is all the way to the bottom because if you're breaking that motor in and the Piston stays to the top you're pinching the piston and it shrinks it faster just like on a regular the Pistons always stay to the bottom but these little motors don't. Make sure the Piston is free while it's cooling off because I'm most cases they don't but a proper breaking that piston should stay to the bottom
I have done this as well with my engines in the past and to be honest I have not noticed any difference in performance nor have I every had any engine issues. I have had many TRX 2.5, TRX 3.3 engines lasting years and always running strong without any issues, and I ran my Traxxas vehicles every chance I get sometimes the whole week of bashing. I also have taken thrown away TRX engines that were stuck, old, corroded, and refurbished them and performance is as good as new for many years thereafter. Keeping the piston at BDC is a common practice especially for lots of the professional racers. Now majority of Traxxas owners are just newcomers to the Nitro scene and or new to RC in its self! Following Traxxas breakin procedures is good enough for the average hobbyist. And let me say that if the person is here watching this video or any How to breakin your Traxxas engine then they must be new and the basic is all they need for now. Even with just the Traxxas instructions and maintenance and care the newcomer to this hobby will have years of fun.
@@BayonasRCWorld well you're lucky but I noticed that mine had a lot more power than all the other three threes I ran up against but yeah you're very lucky piston belongs to the bottom regardless
I have been in this hobby for 40 years! Goldberg, Great Planes, Sig, Global, GRAUPNER, were the kits I started with. Goldberg models brings back lots of awesome memories of the 80's for me.
I am current with the times dude! I just love the Nostalgia from time to time. I have been looking at a few extreme flight planes for awhile and one day after I finish gathering all the materials for the Ziroli DC3/C47 build.
Brother this is how the Traxxas breakin procedure is laid out and I have been doing this for over 10 years without any of my engines overheating and or issues always great power. You do not bring it up to speed before you start counting!
This is why there are 5 tanks to breakin procedure. It is to gradually and slowly wear in the engine internal parts without overheating it or over reaching. The time you start adding throttle begins the count. Note the amount of throttle given during each tank of breaking and duration of the count leading up to the 5th tank. This procedure is laid out in writing with all Traxxas nitro vehicles and Traxxas has also produced their breakin video many many years ago with the same procedure seen in my video. Why that is! Because it is stipulated in the manual for all to follow. I am taking what is in writing and giving a visual for all to see. I refurbish these engines, tune them to optimum performance for many years since the introduction of the TRX2.5 engines. Also I have been doing nitro vehicles and working on nitro engines since 1986
@@Roadhouseee I mean in the video I am trying to explain it so others can see in real time. My counting yes could have been off alittle or shortened per say during filming of the content but the explanations is there for others to comprehend what is going on. It was a long day that day with bad weather and all so alot went into just trying to make the video on that day and boy was it hot at the sametime. But yeah! I understand what you are saying and I agree.
What you see me demonstrate In the video is straight out of the Traxxas manual. This is mainly for newcomers to nitro and your basic Traxxas breakin procedures. If you are advanced and want to do more than the Traxxas procedures then by all means do what you know and feel is best for you is what I say. Once users are accustomed to their first Traxxas nitro engine or vehicle and gain more experience over time they will eventually venture out to more advanced things to include fine tuning their engines for optimum power. I have done all breakin methods on Traxxas engines and all work great! To include Traxxas breakin procedures.
Wow, I’m glad I seen your video. I just bought one and I was planning to go fast. LOL I’ll follow your steps. Thanks man!
This video will definitely help me running my first nitro car 🎉 thanks a lot!
Best video I've seen so far to learn how to break in a Nitro engine. I've only been in the hobby for around 6 months now. Sure, as a kid I had a few el'cheapo RCs like the old Tycos, Nikkos and I think the most expensive one I ever had was an old Tamiya Grasshopper but they were nothing like what you have today. My first true RC I bought was the Traxxas Fiesta ST VXL due to being a fan of rally racing and the cars. Id been interested in buying a nitro and finally pulled the trigger today after a week of reading reviews, I chose the Traxxas Slayer 4x4 Pro Nitro along with I think a quart of 25%. I'm going to try to break it in some, if not all the way in tomorrow. I'm a bit confused with the tuning and all that but Ill figure it out. The main think is to get the engine broke in.
@@christopherscott934 awesome
I just found your video , 2yrs late but very informative , I just bought slayer pro , thank you for this video, I hope you are still making videos,again thank you
Never too late! Glad the video could help.
My first car is coming fed ex today. I got the one in this video. I’m very new so I appreciate this video. Last one I had was early 90’s.
Looking to purchase my first nitro vehicle I plan on getting the nitro slash 2wd great video and very good on explaining everything I’ve been around electric rcs for the past 10 years so this is a whole new experience
Awesome!
It's a great video thank you for putting it out there I'm not new I've done it many times before but it's nice to see step by step the proper way to the manual I look forward to seeing more
Thank you for watching and for your comment.
just ordered mine. first RC ive ever had. i thought i was gonna have no clue what to do, but this video saved me man. thanks. keep em comin' !
Awesome! Have fun and if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. You could message me on messenger or join my Facebook group Bayona's RC World
I bought one a week ago. I just read thru the book after doing what the hobby store guy said to do. He is amazing. I wish I found this video earlier tho it would have helped a lot. I still learned things. Mine broke in good it’s an amazing little thing it sounds so good!
Awesome
Trying to get my Revo 3.3 running after 10+ years😅.
This was an awesome video, appreciate it😎
Awesome I hope you got it running again
Awesome video, ive been running electric RC's for a while and want my first nitro and with your video i feel 100% confident i can break it in properly. Thank you so much!!!
So awesome! Thank you for watching the video.
I just got a Traxxas nitro slash for Christmas and this video has been super helpful, a lot of other videos messed up the audio and I couldn’t hear them over the engine of their car. Thank you!
Just bought one today. My first nitro car ever. I really appreciate the time you put into this video. I subscribed also. I watched it twice to get the process down but I will review the manual when I get the Slayer Pro in the mail. 🤙🏼
Use the video just to see how things are set into motion. But yes read through the manual as well and you will be good. Thanks for watching and subscribing to the channel.
@@BayonasRCWorld Hey bro, I really need some help! I can’t figure out how to install the 1200mah battery. I unplugged the double AA box and now all I have is a red light on the receiver and no wheels turning or throttle opening
Is the Nimh pack fully charged?
@@BayonasRCWorld I’m just gonna send it back to Traxxas I think. Might be the smoothest option at this point.
@@BayonasRCWorld Hey brother, the car is running pretty good it passed the 4 second pinch test but sometimes it dies when sitting idle. Can you explain that??
Thanks so much man. Im a newbie and just got a slayer cause I wanted a Nitro. Really appreciate your detail in educating us new guys, thank you sir!!
Best video on the break in of a traxxas slayer! Thanks 🇺🇸
Thank you for the nice comment. I truly appreciate you
This entire video deserves way more views. Lots of really helpful info, even for us who have been in a while.
Thanks for the kind words
@@BayonasRCWorld yes thanks for the video it was very informative and detailed.
The absolutely 💯 without a doubt the best Traxxas Nitro new user video on the internet. New subscriber just because it was that good.
Awesome thank you!
My wife bought me a 3.3 revo for my birthday open in a few days. Thanks for the video The guy at the store told me let two tanks run through it at idle adjust your tuning You're good to go
It's best to just follow the breakin procedures outlined by Traxxas.
I absolutely love how slow paste this was so helpful thank you
Wow! So sorry your comment went unnoticed for a year. I was just scrolling through the comments and noticed it. I never got a notification for your comment, so my apologies. Thank you for the comment and I truly appreciate you.
Cool deal for the "newbie's", man. I agree. I've been at it for about 20 years, but I've never owned a Slayer. I just got my first Revo 3.3. Haven't even fired it up yet. The Slayer will be my next one, so this helps a ton getting familiar with it. Same chassis as the Revo so helps with that too.
Awesome vid.
Yup same chassis as the Revo 3.3 so won't be an issue at all. Thank for commenting my friend
Great video! Very well explained! I'm actually waiting to get my first TMaxx 2.5! I think the break in process should be the same. That Slayer looks Pretty Awesome.
@@jesseortega8598 yes pretty much the same breakin procedures. And thank you for the comment and watching my video
I’ve ran electric RCs for years and I’ve been thinking about getting a nitro and I love the way you explain everything. You make it where an idiot like me can understand.
There are alot of newcomers to nitro and purchasing Traxxas vehicles as their first RTR vehicles. I always get asked about the breakin procedure and so I decided to just make this video.
@@BayonasRCWorld I was plan on going with the traxxas revo 3.3. Do you have any suggestions for after run maintenance?
@@williamlake1753 for after fun ensure you empty the tank of fuel, attempt to start the engine until it will nolonger start. This will ensure that the crankcase has no fuel left inside. Then remove glow plug and spray a few squirts of WD40 into the cylinder and then turn engine over with starter or pull start holding a rag over the top of cylinder head or glow plug opening to catch the oil residue. Then replace glow plug and store the vehicle.
@@BayonasRCWorld thank you so much
@@williamlake1753 Anytime my friend
I really like video I have electric rc car but this video very nice because he is very clear explain step by step thanks again keep up
Thank you
Thanks man!! awesome helped me so much!! This is my first nitro traxxas!
@@riskyavb9919 glad that this video was able to help you out. That was the purpose of me doing a video like this to at least help out someone getting into one of these Traxxas nitro. Thank you for the comment and I truly appreciate you.
Outstanding video great job
Much appreciated! Thank you for watching
Now I know why my motors never lasted 🤣🤣. Used to race nitro’s years ago and am looking to get back into nitro with the slayer pro , great video 🤘🏼
Welcome back!
@@BayonasRCWorld slayer pro ? Revo or jato ? 😩😩 idk which
@@Chepo1500 all three hehehehehehe! The Slayer and Revo share the same chassis just the revo has longer A arms. The Jato is pretty fast as well. All three has their place and fun handling characteristics. Whichever you choose you will not be disappointed.
@@BayonasRCWorld haha I wish 😂😂😅they pricy but worth it I’m sure. And revo is 45mph and slayer 50mph . But the revo looks better and meaner and funner .
@@Chepo1500 for me I love the Revo 3.3 just because I had a few of them and the fun factor is awesome. Why? Because of the all terrain mayhem and height of the truck stance. The Slayer is great for short course tracks or flat with mild rough terrain and same goes for Jato. But the Revo is just an all out basher IMO.
Thank you for showing this. I am thinking about purchasing one of these and it's good to know how much work is involved in a nitro engine. It looks like fun to me!!🤘
Glad it was helpful!
This was extremely helpful. Thank you so much you are really helping a lot of people out with this.
Much appreciated! Trying to make it as down to earth and fun while not taking away proper Traxxas breakin method.
I just came across your video ive been in the hobby almost 3 years i have 12 rc my first was a tmaxx pro.15 i still have issues with the aspect of tuning being in florida my nitros can run fine in the morning and by 2pm with all the humidity they dont run the same as they did earlier,sometimes it gets a bit frustrating ..watching your video and exactly how you did it cleared up quite a few things i have 6 nitros including a 4tec 3.3 ,a revo 3.3 ,a slayer 3.3 an old nitro sport with a pro.15 the person bought it years ago never used it paid 50 bucks for that at his yard sale,also have a tmaxx 3.3 classic and just picked up a duratrax warhead mint cond. The guy bought it used it a few times blew the engine ,another 50.00 dollar steal thanks your video has helped, time to put the electrics on the shelf, and i hit the subscribe button
Thanks for watching the video and I am glad it helped you for what you needed. I have own and operated and refurbished Traxxas Nitro vehicles for over 14 years now and have delt with all the frustrations. So I know first hand what we go through! So once again thank you and continue to have fun bashing.
This will be my first Nitro truck thanks
Awesome
very informative!!! you explained it pretty much how I read it in the manual. nice to see it in done in real time. i have no experience and went head on to the traxxas slayer pro 4x4 nitro, wish me luck lol i got this
You got this! Have fun.
There are 'experienced' people on here that suck at nitros also. They need to watch this video. 45 years of nitro experience here and I cringe at people that dont know what too 'lean' sounds like, looks like...etc. Dont forget to change your glow plug after tank 5. Tiny fragments of the engine attach to the coil during break-in.
Very true!
Super helpful bro awesome
Glad to hear that
Thanks so much! I'm new to the hobby and love your video!!!!
Thank you for watching
100% perfect and clear explanation. 👌👌👌👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🤜🤛🤜🤛🤜🤛
Thank you for watching and for the comment.
Didn’t even know you where on Guam till I saw tiyan field 😂 nice vid tho
Also where did you get your nitro fuel? Thx
LOL Hafa adai all day Chelu
@@kuxx671 Hornet hobbies
@@BayonasRCWorld Hafa adai and thank you.
Great video video sir
Thank you very much. Thank you for watching and commenting as well.
Hello,
Great video man, plain and simple and clear and concise. Tons of great information, especially for the new guys interested in getting a nitro RC vehicle but a great video to watch for any level of RC enthusiast. You earned my sub. I just got the same truck except I got the red one. I haven't even started it yet. Because I'm quadriplegic I can't do anything except drive it, I'm waiting until my cousin can help me with it... Hopefully soon! I've had other nitro Traxxas vehicles in the past, I had a Traxxas Revo 3.3, a T-Maxx 3.3 and also a Jato 3.3. I almost got another T-Maxx but I like the inboard shocks on the Slayer and the Revo. I considered getting another Revo 3.3 but I don't like that it has a rechargeable pack. Because I'm quadriplegic I don't get to drive them much so that battery pack would go bad, I like the AA holder better. Also, I don't like how the Revo 3.3 has more electronics like the opti-drive and third servo to shift into reverse. Just more stuff to go bad or have to maintain as far as I'm concerned. Also, the Slayer being lighter, smaller wheels/tires and lower center of gravity it'll be quicker, faster and handle better, that's why I went with the Slayer 3.3. Also, it looks really cool! I've been an RC enthusiast for 36 years and counting! My very first "hobby grade" RC was the Tamiya Midnight Pumpkin way back in 1987 when I was 12. Before that it was always disposable junk from Toys-R-Us or Radio Shack. LOL! Here's the collection I have now. Thanks for the great video, I'll be back. Have a great day!
Traxxas slayer 3.3
Traxxas Slash (HCG Baja body)
Traxxas Slash drag car (custom built)
Team Associated DR-10 drag car
Team Associated B5M/SC5M drag truck
Team Associated T4 stadium truck
Team Associated TC4 touring car
Team Losi 22S drag car
Tamiya Land Cruiser crawler
Prather Fun Cruiser 46" gas boat
Proboat Thundercat 31" nitro boat
Excellent stuff brother! I have been in this hobby for 41 years now and still going strong. My first RC car was by Nikko Turbo Panther from the JC Penny catalog LOL. Hey but that was back in the good old days right. Then I got a Grasshopper, then the Tamiya Boomerang then years later I got the Tamiya Clodbuster, Midnight pumpkin, Black foot, Lunch box, Monster Beetle. During this time as well I began building stick and tissue rubber band powered free flight models then control line and moved up into building and flying RC gliders and slope gliders. 1988 I got into RC helicopters, and further into nitro RC Airplanes. Since I have been always jumping back and forth between ground and flying RC models throughout the years. I got into trail vehicles, rock crawlers, drifters, Semi trucks, motorcycles and then 1/5th scale gas buggies and stadium vehicles. I just love this hobby with a passion! I tried race drones and FPV as well but I prefer flying line of sight to be honest. Anyhow glad that you found my channel and that a video was enjoyable and worth watching. I don't have fancy transitions, audio, graphics or speak proper English like top UA-cam channels have, my main concern here on my channel is to share my experiences, show how I do things, and motivate others to give RC a try and or if you are currently into RC to don't give up and learn as much as you can that way you can continue enjoying all the RC models and endeavors that you can. Be safe in all that you do brother and thank you.
@@BayonasRCWorld That's awesome man, lots of good stuff for sure! You're not going to believe this but I had one of those Nikko turbo panther buggies. I also remember one called a Red Arrow from radio shack and I specifically remember it being the first one that I ever had with the 540 motor. LOL! I had a couple airplanes over the years but for very short times and I only flew a couple times. I also had a 1/5th scale Rovan buggy several years back and I'm actually considering getting another one. Having been paralyzed for almost 23 years now I have a lot of problems that keep me from getting up as much as I'd like to. If I can spend enough time outside enjoying the hobby this summer I might have to order one. I can tell you love the hobby with a passion, so do I! I know what you mean about the transitions, graphics etc. You don't need any of that, just keep doing what you're doing. I'm glad I found your channel as well, my kind of videos. Thanks again! Take care and have a good one, buddy! 🙂
on my first tank of my break in procedure, my nitro rustler would always roll away even with the throttle at neutral. i thought it was the idle needle being too lean so i richened it, but did nothing. i suspect i may need to richen the low speed needle instead. your video helped me realize this, and i hope it goes well thank you!
Sweet
I had and old t maxx that I upgraded to the newer one with the 3.3 and different wheelbase, haven't touched it though since 2010. Ordered a slayer pro now, will be here in June. I just ordered their top fuel 20 percent. I'm old now and just want to bash and play out in the yard while I sit outside.
Right on!
Never too old! I have been doing this awesome hobby since 1982. Almost 50 years of age and still enjoying this hobby.
Great video for someone just getting into cars good job.....
Thank you brother. Just trying to give back to the hobby and help others.
My love is and always will be building and flying! However I have been into pretty much everything RC Related for the past 40 years. I am ALWAYS doing something RC related and perfecting everything that I touch in the hobby. If it was not for my mentor and friend Dale Willoughby owner of Willoughby Hobbies here on Guam back in the 80's to take me in and transform a young troubled youth into the person I am today regarding the hobby. This is why I have a strong passion for the RC hobby and always want to lend a helping hand to those wanting to learn or get into this amazing hobby.
Awesome good to know info chelu !!!
Awesome Video !!!
Thanks!
Very good video! Really informative and detailed! 5/5! 😁
Thank you! 😁
Great info. Appreciate it
Thank you for watching and the kind comment
Great video, thanks!
You're welcome!
Hi mam just got one of these and found you video really helpful man thanks pal for making it all I just subscribed two man 🤘😎👍 thanks man mj 👍
Thank you for watching and subscribing to the channel. If you have any further questions on any of the Traxxas nitro vehicles just ask. I will be happy to help.
Thanks man really appreciate that nice one pal 👍
Thank you brother. Very much appreciated. Subscribed
Much appreciated 🙏
@@BayonasRCWorld question, were you pinching the fuel line in between tanks to stop the truck for the 15 minute cool downs
@@tjgetem3783 yes by the use of the red fuel line clip. Some Traxxas nitro vehicles does not have this clip so pinch the fuel line with your fingers.
@@BayonasRCWorld thanks
@@BayonasRCWorld my tmaxx is jerking really bad and moving on it on without me pulling throttle
Awesome gonna get one soon.
Tnx 4 video
What I mean is backing out that adjustment screw so you can hold it for three or four seconds on the fourth tank without it shifting
I understand what you are saying for I have been doing this since the 80's. This video was not intended for advance individuals to nitro Traxxas vehicles. The reason why I have done this video in the way I did was to give the newbies a visual representation of the outlined Traxxas breakin procedures nothing more and nothing less. On top of that keeping true to the instructions outlined by Traxxas I explained things to make it easier to understand. You be surprised how many questions I get in regards to the breakin procedures. So If you have been running Traxxas nitro vehicles for a few years under your belt then you know more than the newbies being their first nitro or even their first RC in general.
Nitro is so awesome
its good info for the rusty nitro guys
Good video buddy.
I just was given to me a Revo 3.3 that needed a new Motor.
I went full out and replaced everything so I have a brand new truck
Minus the wheels they are still original.
One question have you had the cylinder / piston ever get stuck.
I watched a video of a brand new motor and it got stuck.
His vid compared to yours his was rich on the low idle screw
Yours seems very lean on the low speed needle.
I’m learning before I go out and run my new build. 👊😎
Wish me luck man I need it. 👍👍
You can get what they call a hydro lock! That is when the engine is way too rich and fuel floods the crankcase where the piston cannot complete its travel; either the engine must stop rotating or a mechanical failure must occur. To clear this excess fuel in the crankcase you must pinch off the fuel to the carb, remove the glow plug and place a rag over the cylinder to catch the excess fuel, attempt to start the engine with either starter or pull start until all fuel has emptied from the crankcase. Replace the glow plug and release the fuel line to allow fuel to flow to the carb and try to start the engine again. You may need to adjust the low end by turning 1/16 or 1/8 turn clockwise to get a leaner fuel mixture to prevent another hydro lock. My engine in this video is still running rich and as you can see the trail of smoke during the running of the vehicle also is a good indicator of a rich setting (However not in all cases depending on outside temps, especially in colder weather) I hope this helps.
im not very fond of the traxxas method, its way too hard on the rod and wrist pin. i broke in an engine the traxxas way my very first nitro car, my tmaxx, engine lasted about a month running it a couple times a week. it lost most of its compression and wouldnt tune anymore. I bought a revo 3.3 and used the heat cycling method that the nitro buggy guys vouch for, takes about a tank and a half, maybe 2 tanks, the car has so much more power afterwards. that was almost a year ago and it still has high compression. Thats just my 2 cents though, i really like your video, its very informative, you touch a lot of very important points and answer questions i had my first time. And good call on the slipper clutch, mine was VERY loose out of box
I have had a few newcomers to the nitro hobby had similar issues. And what I found out was the guys that I physically was able to see what was going on with their model all claimed that they followed the Traxxas breakin instructions to the T. Well I had them run through with me what they did and 90% of them just did not understand the needles low and high end. So with good intentions they followed the breakin procedures 1 through 6 with the trigger pulls, engine cool down etc.. all while turning in the high end needle way too far in making it too lean because they did not understand the engine sound, smell, lean mixture indicators etc.. Most of their reasoning for touching the needles too soon was because they could not get the engine to idle and stay running. This is where just keeping it simple comes in and to be honest I have been a nitro guy since the early 80's and I know all about the heat cycle and tuning techniques of the past since that's how we broke in our engines. In all honesty if you are a complete newbie to Nitro then I always suggest getting the assistance from an experienced hobbyist for the first time. I have been running Traxxas nitro vehicles since they came out on the market and had my fair share of issues with the TRX 2.5 engines. I have always been a O.S. or Novarossi nitro engine kind of guy with all my nitro on road or off road. But anyhow I truly appreciate the comment and I truly appreciate you for watching the video.
@@BayonasRCWorld yeah, i actually run a small engine shop irl, i can at least find my way around a carb. i hear you on the 2.5, my first and only one had a warped head out of the box
Nice video can you give estimate how much time needed for a proper complete break in time
Based on the Traxxas break in procedures Tank 1 through Tank 5 could be around an hour or up to two hours. As long as you just follow the procedures you will be just fine.
@@BayonasRCWorld tks for the reply , thought will takes a long time as your video completed break in only late in the afternoon . Going for Tmaxx and your video will be my reference later tks
@Collin Phang Oh no not as long as my video LOL! I just wanted to be as informative as I could for the new comer to the world of Traxxas nitro vehicles. But the actual break in procedures takes just 1 to 2 hours. Not long at all just lots of people tend to ignore this important step because it is boring and they all just want to start bashing and jumping etc.
Thanks for the vid!! What happen if the car no fuel (empty thank) in full throttle?? Sorry my english
Empty tank at full throttle. 1st before tank nears empty the engine will show signs of bogging and or wanting to quit. Once tank rids of all nitro fuel the engine will burn what is left inside crankcase. At this time the engine will speed up slightly before abruptly quitting.
@@BayonasRCWorld thankssss so much!!! ❤️
Just got mine brand knew. Mine spits fuel our the glow plug yours looks clean. Is something wrong with Mine?
Have you tried tightening the plug with the glow plug tool? Also ensure you have the brass ring installed onto the plug as well.
Nice❤ thanks
Thank you for watching
I just got a slayer, it is not my first nitro RC, I currently has 3 vehicles (1/8 buggies and 1/8 truggy) running 2 OS and one Picco engines, however I always send my new engine to my LHS which broke in for me by the Adam Drake’s method, I would just run them rich for one or two tanks before I made my adjustment, I am puzzled by the amount of effort needed to be made to break in the TRX 3.3, may I ask is there any short cut method to go for it, I accept suboptimal result, thank you very much
Well overall the idea is basically bringing the engine up to temperature and then allowing it to cool so that all internal parts properly work in slowly. The problem I see with most of the newcomers into nitro is at the first run they are already trying to squeeze out all the power by leaning the mixture too much. This is where they end up overheating the engine! So the Traxxas breakin procedure is a careful way to get newcomers to manage engine breakin while getting use to their first nitro vehicle.
They have many breakin methods out there so it just comes down to personal preference to be honest. All I did in this video was to show the Traxxas breakin procedure in action for those visual learners.
I just got a used revo 3.3 ,the break down is only for new ones?
Yes this meticulous breakin procedures is mainly for new models. If you have a used vehicle more than likely it has been ran.
do i have to do that everytime that i wanna use the car?
thanks for the video
No just for the very 1st time when purchased new. After you break in the engine you just fuel up and play. From time to time you might have to make very small tuning adjustments to the high end needle depending on current temperatures or performance
@@BayonasRCWorld alright thanks a lot
@@manuelalbornoz3167 anytime
Que temperatura manejas en relenti y que temperatura manejas cuando has acelerado a tope? Lo otro por qué se me apaga si lo aceleró a fondo?
Normally engine temp in the 250-270 range however those temperatures could fluctuate depending on various factors like outside temps, type of fuel you are using,glow plug, and condition of the engine itself. Get a good temperature gun give you a ball park figure what temps you are running at. Also don't just use engine temps as your be all set all fix. It comes down to how the engine responds, runs, idles etc...
Your engine dies or quits at full throttle because of various factors. Most of the time engine running too lean.
Hey I got mine not to long ago and I don’t know anything and do you know where to get that fuel online or what the best fuel is for the car edit: I’ve read some comments and seen some people talking about oil so I just need to know what to put in it
Just stick to 25% nitro fuel purchased from your local hobby shop or if in US you can order through Amainhobbies.com Towerhobbies.com or Horizon Hobbies to name a few online providers.
Nothing to add if you purchase hobby grade nitro fuel.
@@BayonasRCWorld is PowerMaster Nitro Race 25% Car Fuel (9% Castor/Synthetic Blend) good ?
@@axstro_junior oh yeah! Perfect
I purchased the Hpi 4.6 I think that’s how I will do it if not let me know
You can use these breakin procedures to any nitro RC car or truck engines. Overall it is mainly to slowly bring up the engine to proper temperature for an certain amount of time and then allow the engine to cool down somewhat. Overall the Traxxas procedures basically gives the newcomers to nitro the opportunity to learn to breakin the engine slowly while also getting some play time.
Hey bro can I send u my trx 3.3 engine for break in ? I’ll pay you. You just do it so amazing work of art !
You got this brother! Just follow the manual to the T and you will be just fine. My video should also help out for the actual application of the instructions.
I have one of these trucks, i have had it for many years. Do you know anyway of making the exhaust quieter? I have tried stuffing the exhaust with stainless steal wool but it doesn't make much of a difference
I would not restrict the exhaust flow otherwise you could cause engine issues. As far as making a Nitro quieter ummmmm using the stock muffler is actually pretty quiet compared to after market mufflers that are a tad bit louder. Nitro is associated with that engine sound and to be honest I never looked into trying to make it quieter. If I wanted quiet I would breakout my electric models. Some neighbors don't like the sound so I just go find a large field away from houses to run my Nitro vehicles. Other than that the stock muffler is the quietest IMO.
Is it important to have it on the ground under load? My old hpi we broke in on blocks
That's how we broke in the engines back in the olden days. Some still do it today however I would not advise it to new comers to nitro vehicles. It is just best to keep it simple for the breakin process while bringing engine up to proper temp and then cool down. The reason Traxxas does the breakin procedures in this fashion to me is merely to get the newcomers into nitro and slowly integrate them with the procedures while learning and still playing with the vehicle somewhat. Gives them a hands on experience all around in my book.
@BayonasRCWorld yeah sweet so its mostly about heat cycles, good to know!
Basically!
Do you have to do the break in all in 1 day or can you do the first 2 tanks 1 day than the other 3 another day
You can do that for sure. It is not a problem.
Do it as you please ... but it's smoother to take a day where you can do it all at once. It won't harm anything to continue break in few days later ;)
I just bought a slash and just having trouble it driving away when I don’t run it.?
you can put a bit of grease in the trans
hi, is the carburetor factory set to break in? or does it need to be set? Well thank you.
The carb is factory set. However you have to consider your location, elevation etc. But yes it is factory set and then you go from there.
Excellent information. So sad my engine last less than a month bad engine, wherever I'm getting a new one by tomorrow. I have a gallon of VP racing fuel 20% nitro 9% oil what do you think about that? Should I increase oil percentage? I have some castor oil, I don't wanna damage my new engine.
20% nitro fuel is great as far as oil content anywhere from 8 to 12% oil is optimal more oil is not always better. I normally 30% nitro fuel with 10% synthetic oil in my TRX engine with awesome power and engine life when properly tuned.
Question?? I got a slayer.. went step by step to your video and I can’t get it to idle. Any ideas? I’ve reset it multiple times and I can’t get it to idle. Help!!!
Adjust the carb barrel adjustment screw. Turn it in clockwise alittle at a time checking the status of the idle.
Thanks. I was afraid to play with it too much. Your video has been a life saver for me and my wallet.
Reason why I made the video. To help others by showing as much as possible while explaining the procedures as if I were right there by your side. I have been playing, fixing, refurbishing, tuning Traxxas nitro vehicles for the past 18 years and have learned alot during these times. I know the frustration one could encounter and have seen lots of people struggle and give up because things weren't going right. So glad I am able to help! If you have any questions don't hesitate to message me here or o Facebook messenger. I also have a Facebook group under the same name Bayona's RC World.
facebook.com/groups/1102320606822541/?ref=share
@@jameshall4918 in my Facebook group type in Traxxas and you can see some of the refurbished Nitro vehicles I have done.
I'm breaking mine in for the first time and can't keep the idle.. it keeps shutting off after few seconds
All needles are at factory setting? If so you can adjust your throttle stop screw a little at a time until engine stays running and idle is settling without quiting.
Just got a revo this is very helpful 👌
Yes same engine TRX3.3 so all breakin procedure is the same. Anyhow the Revo 3.3 and Slayer 3.3 share the same chassis and layout. Just arms are different for the most part.
@@BayonasRCWorld how often do u change and clean anf oil air filter also how long do the glow plugs last ?? I won't be able to break it in till spring or summer here in northern new york
@@bradwoods1087 change or clean the filter Traxxas recommends to clean the air filter after every hour of runtime with the engine (approx. one 500cc bottle of fuel). If the vehicle is operating in very dusty conditions, cleaning the air filter after every 30 minutes of runtime will be necessary to promote long engine life. With that said real world applications I could go the whole weekend playing without cleaning my filter with no ill effects. Now provided that your filter is not caked on mud or grime. As far as glow plug if you have the engine properly tuned the plug will last a long time. Plug fails if you have a overly rich engine setting or too lean settings. Too rich and you flood the plug with fuel, too lean and you burnout the heating element.
Thank u so much lots to learn been in the hobby awhile this is my first nitro I can't wait to break it in do u have a after run Maintenance video??
@@bradwoods1087 unfortunately I did not do one. However what I do is ensure tank is emptied of all fuel, burn off remaining fuel in the crankcase, then remove the glow plug and shoot some WD40 into the engine through the glow plug hole, place a rag to cover the hole and attempt to start the engine or turn over the engine. All the WD40 will then lubricate the engine bearings and all excess will be expelled through the glow plug hole being captured by the rag. Replace glow plug and if your vehicle has 4 AA batteries then remove the batteries. Here your vehicle engine is ready for your next bashing session. Clean off any dirt and debris throughout your vehicle. Also for those screw heads that are turning rusty color you can spray some WD40 onto a brush and lightly brush over all screws and then wipe off excess.
hey you did not say the traxxas .15 nitro stampede iv broken in 2 nitro Rc vehicles the nitro .15 and my hsp nitro backwash buggy I'm hoping to order a traxxas nitro slash when my mom and dad get back from Florida they are flying back home today and after my bills are paid i can order it hopefully
Awesome!
First thing you want to do is ditch those servos with savox that is what i use the traxxas ones always gave out after break in
I never had a Traxxas servo go out on me. 10 years later and still using original traxxas servos that came with all my vehicles.
How many times must the oil needle
What do you mean Oil Needle?
@@BayonasRCWorld l set the fuel needle to5 turns can it work
@@BayonasRCWorld high rev
If this is a brand new engine I would advise to just follow the breakin procedure outlined by Traxxas. That means all needle settings for the first start.
@@BayonasRCWorld thank you brother
Hi, why my car run by itself without pushing the throttle?
There are a few reasons for this. However the first thing you should check is the idle screw. Your idle is to high therefore you must adjust your idle screw on the bottom right of the carb counter clockwise until you have a steady idle without causing the engine to quit yet stops the vehicle from advancing forward. Give that a try first and let me know the status. Is this a new vehicle?
No temp check ?
I use to do temp checks when I first started nitro back in the 80's. Last time I ever used a temp gun for readings was early 90's. Since then I have always relied of performance, sound, visual indicators like exhaust smoke etc. All my engine run excellent without any degrade in performance and I have not blown a engine from being too lean etc.
@@BayonasRCWorld actually so do I rely on sound and performance but after I like the sound and performance I want to make sure that it's cooling down and stays at a certain temperature fine tune
@@kaycee9337 Do what you think will benefit you and your goals. If you want to use a temp gun and verity your temps when you run your engines then by all means if that makes you comfortable or run your engine to its optimal performance then can't be wrong. What I am showing in my video is based on Traxxas breakin procedures and thats all. For those who do not understand the manual or want to see the manual instructions in motion. If you want more advance information there are many videos on UA-cam that probably can give you further guidance into what you are after. Let's not get carried away going beyond the intent of this video. I shared some tips which is all I added to the video for others to just understand why.
Those are some fast seconds lol
LOL yeah it was a hot, humid day, then rain on amd off. This made the filming of this video to take all day until the evening. Should have been a few hours instead. However I digress
I thought when you pinched it you had to let it die completely to get a correct reading?
No by pinching off the fuel to the carb you are determining by the reaction of the engine during that current condition. Therefore, by pinching off the fuel line restricting fuel into the carb you will have either a lean condition or a rich condition. A lean condition will be noted by an abrupt engine out, and the reason for this is because if your needles are turned to far in restricting fuel into the carb your engine will not have much fuel to burn off causing a quick engine off situation. A rich setting will be by the prolong engine running after restricting fuel to the carb before it dies. The reason this happens and a indicator of a rich situation is because if your needles are too far out or opened you are adding more fuel into the carb that the engine now will burn off and since the engine is full of fuel it will definitely take longer. Again this is where counting 3 to 4 seconds after you pinch the line and engine idle increases and runs for between 3 to 4 seconds puts you at the ball park range for your low end setting with just the right amount of fuel in the engine. This is the soul purpose of the pinch test. Has nothing to do with killing the engine. I hope this helps explaining the pinch method. Let me know if anything.
My glow plug goes on but it won’t turn on.
@@MasterScreenPrints did you mess with the needles or all still factory settings?
@ all still factory. I just got it for Christmas. I was following all the steps on your video. I was not sure if the battery pack was fully charged. But since it came with cigarette lighter charger I charge it on the way to work. I’ll see if it turns on today.
You have to prime the carburetor. Put your finger over the exhaust hole and give the starter a few pushes until you see the fuel move through the fuel line to the carb. Do not over prime the carb! Once primed remove your finger and give the starter a few pushes until the engine turns over.
@ I see. I will try. I have been trying it the battery pack died really quick and I have to charge it again in my car with the cigarette lighter.
@@MasterScreenPrints ensure you fully charge the starter pack. Also you can use a 2S lipo in the starter wand however you will need to solder a adaptor plug for your 2s lipo. You will get a starter wand that will last basically all day of play.
Turn in the idle ? Hum you turned in the hs needle not idle
You have the high speed needle, low speed needle and Idle screw or barrel stop open screw. So what are referring to?
@@BayonasRCWorld I'm referring to when you said turn the idol in and you were turning the high-speed needle in
@@kaycee9337 I have to watch the video to see. It has been a while since I seen the video
Two things. One u never mention about cool down. Putting the piston. Below the pinch point. And stopping the second gear shift.
That is the 15 mins in-between thanks. Remember that this is all off the Traxxas breakin procedures and nothing more. If you want to add more on top of what Traxxas has already outlined then by all means. However with that said if you know more advance tricks and tips, TDC and all then you don't need to be watching this kind of content because you are not a beginner or new to Nitro. Like I mentioned in the video that this is all based off the Traxxas breakin procedures outlined in their instruction manual and breakin procedure cheat card nothing more and nothing less keeping it simple. The video is basically taking those given instructions and putting it into action for the new comers to actually see and reference as per written instructions
Hello my intro slash m9ves on idle
adjust the carb stop screw or idle screw. Not the high end or low end needles! it is a screw hidden on the side of the carb body. Turn it out 1/16th turn at a time until the vehicle stops advancing forward.
Ok
I see it it is hard to reach
Traxxas fails to say to make sure the Piston is all the way to the bottom because if you're breaking that motor in and the Piston stays to the top you're pinching the piston and it shrinks it faster just like on a regular the Pistons always stay to the bottom but these little motors don't. Make sure the Piston is free while it's cooling off because I'm most cases they don't but a proper breaking that piston should stay to the bottom
I have done this as well with my engines in the past and to be honest I have not noticed any difference in performance nor have I every had any engine issues. I have had many TRX 2.5, TRX 3.3 engines lasting years and always running strong without any issues, and I ran my Traxxas vehicles every chance I get sometimes the whole week of bashing. I also have taken thrown away TRX engines that were stuck, old, corroded, and refurbished them and performance is as good as new for many years thereafter. Keeping the piston at BDC is a common practice especially for lots of the professional racers. Now majority of Traxxas owners are just newcomers to the Nitro scene and or new to RC in its self! Following Traxxas breakin procedures is good enough for the average hobbyist. And let me say that if the person is here watching this video or any How to breakin your Traxxas engine then they must be new and the basic is all they need for now. Even with just the Traxxas instructions and maintenance and care the newcomer to this hobby will have years of fun.
@@BayonasRCWorld well you're lucky but I noticed that mine had a lot more power than all the other three threes I ran up against but yeah you're very lucky piston belongs to the bottom regardless
What happend to your hand bro
My hand? IdK
need to update your wall all those goldburg models are gone they have been made for 20 years man !
I have those Goldberg models! The one I fly alot today is the Goldberg Extra 300 and Goldberg Super Chipmunk.
I have been in this hobby for 40 years! Goldberg, Great Planes, Sig, Global, GRAUPNER, were the kits I started with. Goldberg models brings back lots of awesome memories of the 80's for me.
I also have all the plans for all the planes seen on my wall. What you see on my wall is what I have and more
@@BayonasRCWorld might wana try and order and extreme flight alot's changed in 20 years
I am current with the times dude! I just love the Nostalgia from time to time. I have been looking at a few extreme flight planes for awhile and one day after I finish gathering all the materials for the Ziroli DC3/C47 build.
You aren’t actually holding the throttle long enough during break in. You need to let it get to speed then count one two.
Brother this is how the Traxxas breakin procedure is laid out and I have been doing this for over 10 years without any of my engines overheating and or issues always great power. You do not bring it up to speed before you start counting!
@@BayonasRCWorld idk I think you’re a little shy on your counting.
This is why there are 5 tanks to breakin procedure. It is to gradually and slowly wear in the engine internal parts without overheating it or over reaching. The time you start adding throttle begins the count. Note the amount of throttle given during each tank of breaking and duration of the count leading up to the 5th tank. This procedure is laid out in writing with all Traxxas nitro vehicles and Traxxas has also produced their breakin video many many years ago with the same procedure seen in my video. Why that is! Because it is stipulated in the manual for all to follow. I am taking what is in writing and giving a visual for all to see. I refurbish these engines, tune them to optimum performance for many years since the introduction of the TRX2.5 engines. Also I have been doing nitro vehicles and working on nitro engines since 1986
@@Roadhouseee I mean in the video I am trying to explain it so others can see in real time. My counting yes could have been off alittle or shortened per say during filming of the content but the explanations is there for others to comprehend what is going on. It was a long day that day with bad weather and all so alot went into just trying to make the video on that day and boy was it hot at the sametime. But yeah! I understand what you are saying and I agree.
keep the engine at bdc
and traxxas fuel is only good for the trash
Im the new guy and want to do my first nitro one time and be done with it until it's time to tune for summer or winter
Wouldn't you make sure the engine is at BDC bottom dead center for the cool down process
What you see me demonstrate In the video is straight out of the Traxxas manual. This is mainly for newcomers to nitro and your basic Traxxas breakin procedures. If you are advanced and want to do more than the Traxxas procedures then by all means do what you know and feel is best for you is what I say. Once users are accustomed to their first Traxxas nitro engine or vehicle and gain more experience over time they will eventually venture out to more advanced things to include fine tuning their engines for optimum power. I have done all breakin methods on Traxxas engines and all work great! To include Traxxas breakin procedures.