Part 2: How to Restore/Fix/Repair a Cracked Vinyl Dash - Toyota Hilux Pickup/4Runner
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- Опубліковано 27 кві 2022
- Here's how the dash looks one year later: • What is the Best Way t...
Part 3: How to Restore a Cracked Vinyl Dashboard WITHOUT Vinyl Wrap, using a Spray Texture Coating: • How to Restore Cracked...
This is my second attempt on restoring an old cracked dash from a 1987 Toyota Pickup
This time I'm using spray foam, 4-way stretch vinyl, brush-on contact cement, and vinyl paint in the following order:
- grind the cracks into a V groove with a dremel
- fill cracks with spray foam
- fill pinholes and final leveling with bondo
- sand smooth
- enlarge vent openings
- apply adhesive to vinyl and dash & wrap vinyl over dash
- trim excess vinyl
- paint to match factory grey
Products used (some may be found cheaper @ local hardware stores)
Dremel 25 pc kit: amzn.to/3g0dWs3
or cheaper generic Dremel: amzn.to/3v0w1dK
Spreaders: amzn.to/3ptttUi
Dupli-Color Prep Spray: amzn.to/3w3uKE2
Dupli-Color Charcoal Grey Vinyl & Fabric Paint: amzn.to/3EWm1Jc
4-way stretch vinyl: amzn.to/3vykgPv
Great Stuff Spray Foam: amzn.to/36VPS85
Weldwood Contact Cement: amzn.to/38w7yr4
Hacksaw Handle/Blade: amzn.to/3kkdvdl
Roller: amzn.to/3EVQJ56
Xacto Knife: amzn.to/2SaQUps
80 Grit Sand Paper: amzn.to/3vXABuC
USC Kromate Light Body Filler: amzn.to/3Ly1vkM
Rubber Sanding Block: amzn.to/3kr2HtW
Foam sanding Block 80 Grit
Clamps, 4-pack: amzn.to/3vWsnmx
If this looks like too much work, there are also Dash Caps available:
1979 -1983 Toyota Pickup without Side Defrost Vents: amzn.to/3uWu2Y1
1984-1986 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner: (long recessed area across dash top) amzn.to/3fTvCFM
1987-1988 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner: (As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase) ebay.us/PVU7qd
1989-1995 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner: amzn.to/2T5rIkh
2003 - 2009 Toyota 4Runner with Speaker Holes: amzn.to/3ghX1Qy
I don't have Patreon or ask for donations but you can support the channel with some rad Yota gear from my store: 6thgeargarage.com/merchandise/
Here's the link for used OEM Toyota parts: 6thgeargarage.com/yota/
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Instagram: 6th_gear
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instead of Great Stuff gap filler, use the low expansion type, it's denser which makes the foam stronger and since it doesn't expand as much so you don't have all those air pockets to deal with
I did the same with my dash after watching your video. I used a heat activated polyurethane cement. I found some stuff made by stronn. I had excellent results. The materials can touch each other and will not bond until heated. Thanks for giving me the idea to do this.
What a fantastic finish, I'm impressed with the join you made. Great videos.
Great work and thanks for sharing the process and lessons learned here. Appreciated.
Unexpectedly captivating! You did a great job, and i would echo the support for the inclusion of your bloopers as the recoveries are as educational as the subject material. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much!
You have to hold the can of foam upside down...read the instructions
RTFM...🤣
Was painful to see that
Lol, don’t correct this man about some unimportant detail as if you have the same skills that he has.
@@WillKruger-xw8ndcan of foam upside down...learn to read
You did a great job! Looks 110% better than before you started and that's always a win!
Great tutorial, and congratulations on this one , came out beautiful.
Very impressive work. I learned a lot about redoing a dash and the vinyl used. Thank you
Hello! Nice job on the repair. If you ever need to cut a matching piece like you had in the corner lay them down on top of each other then cut them both at the same time the the cuts will be identical and will lay down next to each other nice and flat. Any gaps can be filled with RTV then painted. And yes the 4-way stretch stuff is the way to go!!! Thanks!
Wow that's awesome you give credit & you're honest about using the viewers recommendations!
Thanks - I've actually learned a lot from viewers' comments and always look forward to reading them!
omg this man belong to Next World , Great idea great mindset . Love you dear
Dude, I loved it. I watcher both your dash vids and nobody on earth can argue u didn't give it 110%. Plus your commentary is so real it's hilarious. I now (almost) got the balls to do mine, but I'm thinking a combo of both yours. Body filler, contact cement, vinyl, seem the far passenger end, and use help of heat gun to mold/stretch contours. Excellent content from you! Wish me luck 👍
I want to do another where I fill in that recessed area on top to make it smooth. That area has given me a lot of issues on these dashes!
I second the use of the heat gun. I use mine for so many projects when I never thought I would.
Yep can’t beat a heat gun to help with that stretch it’s an excellent tool for forming shapes I used to use a good hairdryer on the hottest setting can help too also good for removing vinyl wrap too , good on ya for getting yourself out there and giving things a go and in turn helping someone else out as someone had commented earlier ✌️😎👍
Man that looks a lot better than your first! amazing results dude!
Thank you! So far it has held up great in the heat test, while the first dash is lifting /peeling across the top.
Thx, you gave me confidence to do dash of my Father's vintage Audi,,, you are Great!! Success with your endeavours👍
Looks great I’ll have try this on my dash
nice work man keep it up you really got a good result
Damn so much patience. It turned out really good though, thanks for sharing!!
What would you recommend please if the dashboard actually split in half? Would you do something similar? Thanks!
Nice work buddy !!! I learned a lot .! Thank you for sharing:) now I’m gonna attempt this with my 1981 vw rabbit truck !
Thanks! I just restored another one using a spray on texture instead of wrapping the vinyl, and it turned out very nice! That video should be going live sometime this week.
I recommend cosclay foam clay. It air dries and is sculptable, sandable and is similar tot eh foam used in dashboards.
I watched an upholsterer work with vinyl once. One thing he did was stretch the vinyl over tight corners with a heat gun. He made it look easy, but I could tell he had a lot of practice!
I don't know what glue he was using, but he sprayed it on with a weird looking pneumatic sprayer that shot a very light but narrow stream.
I tested a heat gun with this 4-way stretch vinyl, but it's so thin and rubbery that it started to blister. I restored a dash with thicker marine vinyl that wasn't 4-way stretch and the heat gun did wonders to help that form around corners. I just uploaded a resto of another dash where I sprayed on the vinyl texture and it turned out to be my best yet: ua-cam.com/video/sw8EmkbezXE/v-deo.html
@@6thGearGarage That makes sense. It looks very thin!
I'm really enjoying these videos and your ideas as I work on my '77. 👍
One day he'll discover masking tape to keep all of the filler messes contained. I love the train of thought presentation of the video, even if the messy filler gives me a bit of anxiety.
That's a good idea!!
I like the classical music in the background 👌
Same here- very relaxing and will stand the test of time, hopefully!
Wicked job on the dash. Some great skills to know if and when a person does this to there fine ride.
Thanks, this dash held up well through the heat and cold too: ua-cam.com/video/ywkqTaHK2LA/v-deo.html
Thanks for the idea I was wondering how I could fix those crakes , good job bro.
very educational. Thanks for making the video
Well done dude, looks good.
Thanks!
Wow very good job thanks for your time 👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
Good guide for bondo. matchbox size for bondo, and one match stick size for the hardner.
Thanks for the info!
I did a toyota celica dash with contact glue and fabric, It worked out to my satisfaction.
Mix and pour 2 part poly urethane foam is superior. The problem with the spray can method is that it can leave voids and simply fail to cure if the repair is too thick. The 2-part won't pit, and you can get it in different densities. It makes an extreme strong bond, it is much more rigid than the spray foam, cures in minutes, and It would allow you to skip the bondo step entirely.
That looks damn good my friend. I have an 88 with the exact crack. I'm going to try to fix it. Thanks.
Thanks! I just restored another Toyota dash using a spray on texture instead of wrapping the vinyl, and it turned out very nice! That video should be going live sometime this week.
Way better bro good job
On your small pit in the sanding of the bondo is easy to cover with a product called glazing putty, it's what body shops use on their bondo once you sand it to shape, to cover pits, low spots and sand scratch Mark's. 🤠👍😁
Thanks!
On the first Dash pad project you used a piece of plastic to line the recessed rectangular area on top of the dash. You ended up with the uneven fold creases in your Bondo mold. You might try making a mold with a section of the 4-way stretch vinyl instead. I would put the "grain: side up, so the grain imprints in the mold. BUT- I would spray the grain side with WD-40 first, then wipe down so there is only a thin coat remaining. Then you pour in you Bondo to make the mold. When the Bondo mold cures, it should pull apart from the vinyl liner with no problem, leaving you with a mold with the vinyl grain pattern.
Also if you use that "creased" mold again- you can put a section of the 4-way vinyl (with the grain side down this time) in the recessed area, smooth it out then clamp down your mold to allow the glue to set over night. Kudos on your videos. I have done dashboards & other challenging interior pieces and come up with the same challenges you have. You can only improvise & get better each time. Thanks to all who contributed in their comments.
Thanks for sharing your ideas! I have many more cracked dashes and will enjoy trying another dash restoration after reading all the helpful comments.
Nice work!
Thanks! I recently restored another dash using a spray-on texture instead of vinyl wrap and it turned out pretty nice too: ua-cam.com/video/sw8EmkbezXE/v-deo.html
Very good work. 👍👍👍
Thanks!
They sell a rasp that is used to buff tires, so a tire patch can be put on, but I found that rasp works great on dash boards
Doh! I actually have one of those... never thought about using it for this lol.
Hey, I got your message from the other video. I’ll watch this one too. Thank you
Just placed a comment on your part 1 video regarding how to deal with the cut and tuck corners. You can also fix the end where you ran out of vinyl.
Grandioso trabajo realizado
Eres muy inspirador , motivas a mantener autos en buen acabado plástico
Awesome job 👏👍🏿🙌
Thanks 💯
For those small holes don't use bondo again use glazing/spot putty. It's the right tool for that job.
You can *INDEED* undo a cut. Remember, there are several vinyl upholstery repair kits out there for repairing rips, cigarette burn holes, etc., & thet'll work just as fantastically well on deliberate incisions at seams - or - at a seam created by butting the edge of a patch *next to* (not overlapping) the portion of the covering where you ran out of material. Just be sure to spend the extra few pennies for the kit that comes with the actual electrical setting iron instead of the iron that you have to heat with a lighter. Don't be cheap. get the good one.
Perfection !
Impressive!
applying the contact cement to area before spray foam will help the foam stick.
Great tip... thanks!
Great Stuff Window and Door would be good for this. Much smaller air bubbles.
Good call!
Show this to anyone that bitches about these oem dash pieces being $400-$500 in uncracked condition. Good work!
They are not worth $300 or $400 🖕🏻🖕🏻🖕🏻
Good job
Thanks!
For the areas that wrinkle, you need to use a heat gun on the material, it helps to form that corner or dip and when the material cools, it helps to hold that shape, so it won't lift back up, also on sections where you need to cut a slit in the material, it's best to use a hole punch, to put a rounded hole at the end where the slit stops, then cut your slit up to that hole you made with the hole punch, this will prevent the material from splitting further up from your cut. 🤠👍😁
Great tips... thank you!
For foam, I think that the low expansion might have been a better choice, both in the dash and the man shed.
I'll have to sop around for some of that.
@@6thGearGarage Windows and doors foam, found at all big box stores like HD and Lowes.
@@bradmaas6875 Oh I did see that, didn't realize that was the low expansion kind. I'll pick up a can this week, as I'm about to make another another dash restoration video, but this time I'll be painting on the texture instead of wrapping it. Thanks!!
Looking good
Thanks 👍
Yes, practise makes perfect :)
Yes it does!
I can’t remember if you did with the marine vinyl but heating up the material helps prevent wrinkles! With a hair dryer or heat gun in your case
I did use a heat gun for the marine vinyl, but the 4-way stretch vinyl was much easier to work with. It's really more of a stretchy cloth with a very thin layer of rubber/vinyl on top. I may try some heat on the recessed area where it bubbled up some.
Nice job
Thanks!
there is a leather paste fuller to fix leather seats cracks to fix the cut on the edge.
I think I've seen those kits... good call!
Looks Good to me
Save yourself a lot of trouble. Everywhere you don't want the foam to stick use either masking tape or oil the surface. A little dawn and warm water will clean up the oil. I've used this method making molds to form several things with bondo
Contactc cement has to be dry not tacky and it works on compression all the clamping won't help and the seams you can over lap the material and strike a cut through both like wall paper or floor vinyl dose not have to be a straight line and good masking tape is the best it stretches and pulls back to the seam.
IT WORKS GREAT FOR RUST HOLES IN YOUR VEHICLE USE SPRAY FOAM LET DRY THEN TRIM IT OFF WITH A KNIFE OR A HACKSAW BLADE AND THEN YOU CAN PAINT IT.
It's a good quick fix, but will actually hold moisture and cause more rust in the long run.
@@6thGearGarage I was thinking on spraying the rust proof in the first let that dry and they spray the foam to fill the rusted hole then trim it then paint it again 👍
Try a pop sicke stick on the corners when applying filler it has a curve like you're strait edge
Good idea, thanks!
you can de-yello the vent's by putting them in a clear container of rubbing alcohol with the lid on and leave it outside for the day in the sun, it will get rid of the yellowing that's caused by bromine, a fire retartend they put in the plastic.
That's awesome info, thanks!
Learned from your video. Thanks so much. Were you able to remove the dashboard without disassembling everything?
The only difficult part of removing these dash pads is taking out the right side vent to access a hidden bolt: ua-cam.com/video/oZD-g4RfdUo/v-deo.html Snd there's one more hidden bolt up inside that can be accessed through the bottom with extensions.
Most definitely putty with hardner will self level will be a breeze to form
Thank you.
You're welcome!
My Friend nice CAT 🐈 I have Three and a Dog 🐕. Great Video God Bless.
For the small touches and pin holes glazing putty may be nicer to use than bondo
Good idea!
You can use vinyl good quality repair kit on the cut seam. They come in different colors, and if you do it right, you wont be able to tell even if the color doesn't match 100%. Some even come with a texture mold to help blend it in.
I have seen those at parts stores... great idea!
Ya need a French curve, architects use them for drawings.
I'd make a few of them once you obtain one.
When you see the French curve you will understand.....
You worked as never before and screwed as always😂😂
Just a tip, if you start on the right side of the dash with fabric, you will have enouhg room on the top to stretch the material with no wrinkles, and side will be smooth also, otherwise great job man 👍
Thanks for the info!
The PU foam is *no good* . It will "deflate" over time and collaps. Just give it 2-3 years
There is another foam to fill cracks between walls and door/window frames. It is less sturdy but wont change shape over time.
Best option would probably be to get some XPS foam sheet and cut it to fit.
Part of the problem is that the vinyl has a “grain” or pattern in its texture. By cutting it and butting the edges you are joining a horizontal to a vertical pattern. Folding the two edges under then butting them might be preferable. The seam is noticeable but it likely oks intentional.
I have used thicker marine vinyl, which has a noticeable grain. However this 4-way stretch vinyl is much thinner, about the thickness of a t-shirt, and it doesn't have the pattern like most vinyl has. I actually wish it did have the pattern, so it would look closer to OEM.
Overall wow great job. After all that work a higher quality clear coat would have knocked it out of the park even further. Also you definitely need to find a better wheel guy bro. lol
I read that the clear had to be an enamel to safely go over an enamel base. Otherwise, I would have used a 2k for sure. And 100% never taking wheels I care about to that shop again!
Hola amigo , perdon no se Ingles , si usas aerosol (spray ) de poliuretano cuando aplicas , tenes que poner el envase al reves de cabeza y nunca emparejar o tocar la espuma con nada porque en esa area seca distinto mas duro y mas quebradizo , es mejor usar el poliuretano para preparar que son dos componentes Poliol e Isosianato , en partes iguales y al mezclarlo se forma la espuma , rellena mejor y no queda espacios de aire , solo tendrias que hacerle una contencion con cinta de papel hasta que seque , suerte , buenos videos 👏👏👏❤
God job
thanks
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
The non-expanding Great Stuff to avoid the expansion.
Результат приемлимый учитывая, что при желании может сделать каждый👍
If you had read the instructions. It tells you to hold the can upsidedown to use.
@6th Gear Garage looks good on film. how is the texture up close? How do you feel about the texture on this vinyl? i saw on the reviews some people thought texture was cheap looking. someone said it looked like sprayed on rubber.
The texture of the 4-way stretch vinyl is smooth compared to the original finish, or even the thicker marine vinyl.
Great video. Man I don’t know if you figure about how to avoid or or fix the joint that you cut the vinyl if not they sale this Leather Advance Leather gel Repair Kit for seats You can use that seem and to make it disappear olso can be use on the vent that you cut a bit much 👍
I've seen those kits... I'll have to try that the next time I measure once and cut twice.
My 94 4Runner SR5 V6 5-Speed Needs This! Lol
The 95 dash should be a lot easier since it's more rounded.
1:19 Man you were really pissed with that can :)
Haha I need an assistant to catch the things I throw out of frame.
How does a heat gun flash on 4 way v for moulding to corners? Like they do on wraps .
The fabric was so thin, that I didn't even try. I was convinced it would melt quickly.
The jeb gardener of garages
Cool
Looked better with the cracks
use the red bando filler, much easier to sand.
@46:00 you can cut along one edge, then wrap the flaps in their respective directions across each other. recut (with a blade) the overlaying piece along the edge or where you could hide the seam, pull the flaps back and remove the loose pieces. the remaining flap should but together pretty good. same trick works on the little missing corner.
Edit: i see you kind of did it at 48min, so instead of trying to match the other edge, just cut both pieces at the same time and then the edges will match :)
Thanks for the advice! I may try wrapping another one of these dashes.
Why use Bondo, which intended to fill firm metal surfaces, to fill a foam dash with "give"? The bondo will crack. Try bumper filler, which flexes.
I will look into the bumper filler, thanks!
One other important point I want to make about color coating vinyl. SEM is the best color coat available, I have used other products from O'Reilly-and other auto parts stores and regretted it. (Unless these products have improved-that is) If you are using a black four way stretch vinyl because that is all that is available, and you need your finished product to be a grey or a saddle tan color, You MUST first use SEM SILVER over the black. If you don't, a light final color will not give you the desired light color. I always keep a can of silver around for the light over dark color changes. SEM has been in this business for decades. Their product only gets better & better. (No, I don't work for SEM and receive NO compensation-but I am open to it~😁😁
Thanks for that advice!
So after all that, would you do it this way again or would you buy a preformed cap off e-bay? When I see how much time you put into this and materials I'm not sure it makes sense but I've never bought one of the caps so perhaps they suck?
I've heard that the caps don't fit well around the vent openings and you can see the edge. But after considering the time to recover, plus the labor in removing the dash, the cap isn't a bad way to go if you don't have a lot of spare time. Here's how to remove the dash pad if you want to see how long it can take: ua-cam.com/video/oZD-g4RfdUo/v-deo.html
Your voice sounds like the dub in the Russian garage videos
Konzervu sa pur- penom trebalo bi okrenuti naopako. Kada se ekspandirana pena osuši na dodir,potrebno je sabiti prstima i tako će biti i čvršća i kompaktnija
Wow. Man you are fantastic, May I make another suggestion though? When "shaping" your vinyl, use a heat gun it will make easy work on those corners and recessed area's. It will "shrink" it into the shape you need it to be, And the heat gun would make it to where you could have pulled it over the corner that you were just a touch short on, There's always a solution young man, just think it through, and "the idea" will come to you.
Thank you! I did use a heat gun when I restored the first dash with the thicker marine vinyl. It worked pretty well on helping it form to the dash, although it did shrink back some after it cooled. The 4-way stretch vinyl was so thin, it was like a fabric more than it was like vinyl, so I was nervous about the heat damaging it. I should do a test sometime though, to see how it does.
Use a heat gun/hair dryer which is set on lowest possible setting to make vinyl covering material more "malleable"!
I tried it on part 1 and it did help, but that vinyl was thick, so it somewhat stretched back after it cooled. This 4-way stretch vinyl was so thin, I was nervous about damaging it from the heat.
I use this all the time I have an idea so you should use a angle grinder with a sandpaper wheel comes out very pressis
That's a good idea, thanks!
@@6thGearGarage oh yes on that crack on your dashboard have you heard of crack filler I use it on my trailer floors you could get it at trailer parts store l boundo does not comes close to it it's a 50/50 mix you get two cans dude it works on any surface works on wood , plastic ,metal ,
@@eddiepulido2696 I will check it out, thanks!
How much money in materials did you spent? and the time to fix it...i think is worth it to spend good money on one already in good shape. I like your video thank you for all the information on this.
I already had the tools and some materials. There’s a list in the description if you want to price out the things you will need from amazon. I found some items cheaper locally. I didn’t keep track of time but I would guess a few hours total, but spaced out because of drying time.